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zakpack
07-05-2015, 21:50
Well its out and Im having fun.
Can someone please explain what ALL the sliders do in 'Calibrate force feedback'.
Ive played about and got a setup that works, humm.
When reading the ingame explanation Im left confused (tried staring for a while....dont work)
Just something simple a non-petrolhead might understand.
My main problems are 1. not feeling the tyres grip and loose grip
2. Rumble strips Im just not feeling them ( I can hear but no feel)
3. Car collisions.
If you help please do.
Thanks
(setup in sig)

yusupov
07-05-2015, 22:01
2. seems to be mostly by design, i am workign on it myself. the main thing is to bump up the z-forces (in the car setup screen, so you will have to do this for each car) without compromising the rest of the feedback. im not sure the best way to do it yet but hope this thread keeps active, i will post if i have any breakthru.

i personally would like to have surface exaggerated similar to how iRacing does it (they dont admit this, but they do :)) or recommended R3E settings. default ffb has practically no surface feel.

Siberian Tiger
07-05-2015, 22:04
Well, yes...

pCars does feed the FFB directly from the Physic. (Spindle Arm)

So no canned effects...

Upping the Fz Scale is a good way to give more Vertical Forces into the mix...

zakpack
07-05-2015, 22:05
Car setup ok thanks, Ill give that a go.
Will keep a eyeout for your posts.
Glad its not just me.
Thanks yusupov

klhnikov
07-05-2015, 22:09
Hi all
Same sensations for me... Im an Assetto Corsa player and I miss grip sensations when I brake and driving straight lines is quite boring...
I m sure a Good setting can fix it but wich one ?? No time to look for now...

yusupov
07-05-2015, 22:20
zakpak here are some settings i use (g27, and they are heavy so probably too heavy for your wheel but im not sure)

master: ~40
x: ~50
y: ~50
z: ~100

for some reason this works better than just bumping up z, at least i think so. you will definitely feel the road & curbs now. it was recommended i try brands hatch which i also recommend bc there are a variety of curbs including some violent ones, & its also a laserscanned track so bumps should match visuals, you should feel the track w/ these settings, tho if theyre too strong hopefully you can adjust to fit.

zakpack
07-05-2015, 22:33
Thanks yusupov
I had a look at the car setup and its helping! (not the most instinctive place to have more force feedback settings but hey)
Will try your setting tomorrow, you are a big help :) thanks again friend.

could_do_better
07-05-2015, 22:36
Lets you have FFB per car. This is important as most wheels have limited torque output and for example to have good ffb settings across all cars and all possible setups of each car you need to be able to control it on a car by car basis. In time this will be seen as one of the games's great strengths. It is a SIM after all so why not expect the steering to change if you adjust the setup? So you need to be able to pull it back within the capability of your wheel.

zakpack
08-05-2015, 08:16
Thanks WMD members
Can you direct me to a 'project cars manual' as the online one with the game doesnot show the 'calibrate force feedback' options.
P.S. All I need it to know what the sliders do! or am I looking at the wrong area. I spent 3-4 hours moving one slider, starting race weekend for feel, going back changing. In the race weekend couldnot setup 'car setup', used garage. Dont get me wrong I like the game and Im willing to experiment, just a heads up would be nice.
Am I doing this wrong?
any help, Thanks

bububu75
08-05-2015, 08:51
...same problem with a thrustmaster T500RS : only the 1st line does caus an increase in FFB resistance, other settings, i e the x, y, z, and Mz do not seem to work, and I just DON'T UNDERSTAND what they mean. The final FFB feeling is NOT NATURAL, and I get 2 big problems :
1) I can't feel the car sliding (and absolutely no tyre noise !)
2) Passing on kerbs : you don't ever notice it in the wheel.

NB : My Windows settings for my wheel are correct, as the FFB feeling is very good in Assetto Corsa.

yusupov
08-05-2015, 08:58
for 2 did u try something like my setting above?? it should make the curbs very sharp thru the wheel (assuming they are not flat, as was advised to me here, experiment at brands hatch, use a low ride car like the lotus 79 for best (strongest) results)

like i said it might be too strong but you will get an idea of what can be achieved

@zakpack go to practice & change car setup from there when experimenting. you do have to leave the pits, try it, then esc back to the pits, but thats still much quicker than what it sounds like youve been doing

*lotus 78

Photonenbert
08-05-2015, 09:20
Per car settings do this:


General FFB strength
Output strength of the FFB to the wheel after it has been calculated by the FFB engine. This is basically the final 'volume' adjustment of the FFB. This means that if the FFB is clipping, turning the FFB strength down won't help anymore.

Tyre Force
This is the strength of the tyre contribution to the FFB, which is also the main contributor to the FFB. If the FFB is too high or too low for all cars, you can adjust this value to get it equally stronger/weaker for all cars.

The car-specific settings___________________________________________________________________________________________________
These you want to adjust when the FFB of one car is good while for the next car it's too weak or strong (or has a wrong subjective balance of the individual force contributors).

Spindle Master Scale:
this scales the forces below it equally up and down, i.e. it's the FFB 'volume knob' specifically for that car. Turn it down if the FFB is clipping, and up if it's too weak.

Fx:
this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking, but I haven't really experimented with this one yet.

Fy:
this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering.

Fz:
this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road.

Mz:
this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip.

So when you want a particular force to stand out in the FFB, raise its relative contribution to the total FFB, and after that adjust the Spindle Master Scale value if necessary to get the FFB stay within the full range (i.e. not clipping or getting too weak).

if you are using a G25/G27 by any chance, please join and have a look at my setup guide. Its pretty awesome. And it might help you as well.
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22122-G25-G27-SETUP-GUIDE

JamoZ
08-05-2015, 09:29
I had a massive breaktrough just starting the game WITHOUT the Logitech CP open. Just forget about that, calibrate the wheel ingame and up the master scale force in the car menu from 26 in between 50/70`ish.
Don`t touch anything else to begin with. I even had the overall FFB set at the default of 85.

I`ve only done a couple of laps so far with just 2 cars but for the first time in months...years even! i actually feel something of a usable FFB! Can someone else with FFB issues try this aswell?

yusupov
08-05-2015, 09:32
sure, can u recommend a car?

JamoZ
08-05-2015, 09:39
The RUF RG-T 8 with master scale at 60 in the car menu gave me a very good base FFB. I`ve tried that car on Laguna Seca

Keep in mind i`m on a g25...

EDIT : Upping the overall FFB from 85 to 100 made me lose some details and precision. Keeping it at 85 for the moment and just up the car menu scales is the way to go for now it seems.

Gopher04
08-05-2015, 09:49
@Zakpack the T500 really does take some fine tuning to get feel good, but everyone has a different view what feels good for their personal taste, it took me ages to get it feeling good for me, and I'm still tinkering now, the first problem is that the T500 has a very heavy ffb, so coming down on settings sometimes really helps as it can over saturate the ffb and you will be clipping all over the place, I like a heavy wheel but I also need to beable to feel what the car is doing, which is a hard balance to find with this wheel, here are a few tips to try that work for me:

Ingame..force feed back calibration:

tireforce 75
wheel position smoothing 0
deadzone drop off 0.10
relative adjust gain 1.30
relative adjust bleed 0.10
relative adjust clamp 1.00

Configuration:

damper satuation 0
force feedback 100

Under edit tuning setup force feedback:

Master scale default to 60 personal taste, normally for me 50 depending on car.


Trustmaster control panel:

overall strength 100 some will say 75
constant 100
periodic 0
spring & damper 0
auto centre by the game

Try these and see how you get on.

yusupov
08-05-2015, 09:55
it may be placebo, i am noticing my profiler automatically opens when i open pCARS since i have it linked.

there is still a HUGE difference in ffb (as i guess would be expected basically doubling everything -- i set master at 50)

now whether it is for the best i dont know lol

it is very heavy, unlike anything i am remotely accustomed to, but it didnt seem to be clipping?? its extremely spring heavy, i see now where that complaint comes from...

i have in-game FFB at 100 still, ill try the exact combo you said and try it out a few mins...it is very different for sure

JamoZ
08-05-2015, 10:53
it may be placebo, i am noticing my profiler automatically opens when i open pCARS since i have it linked.

there is still a HUGE difference in ffb (as i guess would be expected basically doubling everything -- i set master at 50)

now whether it is for the best i dont know lol

it is very heavy, unlike anything i am remotely accustomed to, but it didnt seem to be clipping?? its extremely spring heavy, i see now where that complaint comes from...

i have in-game FFB at 100 still, ill try the exact combo you said and try it out a few mins...it is very different for sure

Make sure the profiler isn`t running, this made a world of difference for me. From hating the FFB for months, to actually starting to enjoy it the past hour or so. I like a slightly lighter FFB with more details coming trough instead of FFB that`s so heavy that i`m getting tired after 10 minutes. For me it now feels closer to Assetto Corsa and RF2. I suggest anyone who`s experiencing a spring driven FFB on logitech wheels to disablke the profiler completely, tune down the overall FFB a bit and only tune the in car FFB scales. It`s too early to speak of a massive breaktrough since not enough people have tried it yet, but i might be on to something for people who want a different FFB experience....

zakpack
08-05-2015, 11:22
Thanks for the suggestions, speeding up setting tests and also the force feedback settings. Its helped a lot and I feel on track to really experiencing this game. ( still have some hair on my head )
Frendly and helpful community Im glad I joined!

luisi5678
08-05-2015, 22:35
12 plus hours on ffb, ive given up. Feel nothing in a straight line, played with every setup. hope someone fix, thanks

yusupov
08-05-2015, 23:01
Make sure the profiler isn`t running, this made a world of difference for me. From hating the FFB for months, to actually starting to enjoy it the past hour or so. I like a slightly lighter FFB with more details coming trough instead of FFB that`s so heavy that i`m getting tired after 10 minutes. For me it now feels closer to Assetto Corsa and RF2. I suggest anyone who`s experiencing a spring driven FFB on logitech wheels to disablke the profiler completely, tune down the overall FFB a bit and only tune the in car FFB scales. It`s too early to speak of a massive breaktrough since not enough people have tried it yet, but i might be on to something for people who want a different FFB experience....

very strange, your FFB isnt heavy??? i dont know how that could be bc the profiler is closed...the only difference i could really think it would make is that if, for example, you have turned off damping in the profiler, youll feel that slight damping on the x-axis that is on by default for some reason. other than that, nothing should be different...maybe i should try unchecking 'enable center spring'? thinking aloud now. i dont think i can run w/out the profiler even if i unlink the game bc the result will likely be that my degrees of rotation will revert to something like 270.

Capd0wn
09-05-2015, 02:35
If someone has a good FFB setting for a T500 RS, I'd really appreciate to know it :)

I'm trying on my own, but i'm not plenty satisfied...

fastracer
09-05-2015, 04:39
Hi there guys could you post a guide on what the force feedback settings do.

fastracer
09-05-2015, 04:43
Per car settings do this:



if you are using a G25/G27 by any chance, please join and have a look at my setup guide. Its pretty awesome. And it might help you as well.
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22122-G25-G27-SETUP-GUIDE

Do you have a full guide

fastracer
09-05-2015, 04:44
You have a full guide

Roger Prynne
09-05-2015, 18:49
Have a look at this guys, it might help to see it visually.


https://youtu.be/mlOdRTB4njY

zakpack
10-05-2015, 11:52
I have found this from the guys at simracing. Vid to help setup and links to guides
Hope it helps https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlOdRTB4njY

sorry rouge prynne did not see same link in your post!

Sproket
11-05-2015, 06:09
Hi Gopher. At last your tips helped me with my T500rs. The vid from ISR didn't seem to work for me and I noticed after restarting mission the setup would default or even worse, completely different. Just one thing? Is the dropout settings the same as fallout? All the way to the right?
Once again thanks I can now start enjoying this brilliant game by only raising master scale to 50/60 and dumping some fuel. 😃