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Sum Dixon-Ear
18-01-2016, 11:51
It's not exactly a work of genius.

The grubs on the spindles are very small and very strongly secured due to the locking compound on them... too easy to round them off for my liking.

Thinking back, my other motors were a swine to fit as well, I think that I fitted the belt by gently turning the spindles to slide it through the gaps... still, a sharp metal edge will damage a soft rubbered belt.

Sankyo
18-01-2016, 12:09
EDIT : Unless, that is, Remco (outstanding chap that he is) has a spare belt lying around anywhere... nudge nudge, wink wink, say no more...

I think they call this 'social blackmail'? :p

Anyway, I'll have to dig a bit but I don't think I have spare CSRE belts lying around. Maybe I have one from a cannibalized CSW v1, I'll let you (Mascot) know if I have one.


Yeah, I had a closer look at that after splitting the belt and it should work. I just followed the instructions and didn't think to check the gap - after all, why would it change? The old belt came off easily enough (a little tight in the gap, but nowhere near as bad as the new block). What annoyed me was that there is no reason whatsoever for the gap to be smaller than the belt - it could be three times wider. It's just incredibly shoddy design, along with the cheap stamped bracket with sharp edges. Saving pennies and creating chaos. I'm a qualified industrial designer and if I'd have come up with a component relationship like that even as a student I'd have been laughed off my degree course. One of the first things you are taught is to consider assembly, disassembly and replacement of components. Even the proximity of the assembly to the unprotected code wheel is idiotic.



If it's any consolation, in the CSW v2 it's all done right. Surely you were looking at upgrading to it soon? :)

Mascot
18-01-2016, 12:14
I think they call this 'social blackmail'? :p

Anyway, I'll have to dig a bit but I don't think I have spare CSRE belts lying around. Maybe I have one from a cannibalized CSW v1, I'll let you (Mascot) know if I have one.

If it's any consolation, in the CSW v2 it's all done right. Surely you were looking at upgrading to it soon? :)

Thanks Remco - that would be awesome. And no - no plans to upgrade just yet..! :)

Mascot
18-01-2016, 12:21
It's not exactly a work of genius.

The grubs on the spindles are very small and very strongly secured due to the locking compound on them... too easy to round them off for my liking.

You know the itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny grub screw that secures the load cell in the CS pedals? Mine has the sheared-off head of a ball-ended Allen key lodged in there for ever more. Bad choice of Allen key by me (it was the only one I had that fitted) but equally bad choice of size by Fanatec. There's no reason for the grub screw to be so small. So now I have to gently tap new load cells into place when they fail..!


Thinking back, my other motors were a swine to fit as well, I think that I fitted the belt by gently turning the spindles to slide it through the gaps... still, a sharp metal edge will damage a soft rubbered belt.

Yeah, that's how I did mine. Blindly followed instructions without stepping back and thinking about it. I blame failing daylight on a Friday evening after a long and hard week, and over-eagerness to get my bloody wheel working again..! :)

Sum Dixon-Ear
18-01-2016, 12:36
You know the itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny grub screw that secures the load cell in the CS pedals? Mine has the sheared-off head of a ball-ended Allen key lodged in there for ever more. Bad choice of Allen key by me (it was the only one I had that fitted) but equally bad choice of size by Fanatec. There's no reason for the grub screw to be so small. So now I have to gently tap new load cells into place when they fail..!


There are grubs on each side of the load cell for centreing as well as securing in place, so you can still remove the undamaged screw after a few taps on the head with a hammer (the grub screw, not you Mascot... honest). I have often been tempted to tap larger threads into the brake block to fit beefier screws... Fanatec and their obsession with tiny, tiny grub screws... grrrr.

Sankyo
18-01-2016, 13:17
There are grubs on each side of the load cell for centreing as well as securing in place, so you can still remove the undamaged screw after a few taps on the head with a hammer (the grub screw, not you Mascot... honest). I have often been tempted to tap larger threads into the brake block to fit beefier screws... Fanatec and their obsession with tiny, tiny grub screws... grrrr.

On the CSP v3 it's much bigger ;)

Sum Dixon-Ear
18-01-2016, 13:32
On the CSP v3 it's much bigger ;)

For god's sake, stop it man.. :D

I love my CSP v2s, they'll do me a few years yet I reckon... however, ne'er a day goes by that I don't have another wee look at the CSW v2... hopefully soon.

Mascot
18-01-2016, 13:43
For god's sake, stop it man.. :D

I love my CSP v2s, they'll do me a few years yet I reckon... however, ne'er a day goes by that I don't have another wee look at the CSW v2... hopefully soon.

Just how much of an upgrade over the CSR-E is it though? I'd need to test them both back-to-back to convince myself.

Sankyo
18-01-2016, 13:50
Just how much of an upgrade over the CSR-E is it though? I'd need to test them both back-to-back to convince myself.
You shouldn't take my word for it of course :), but the difference is amazing. More powerful but above all incredibly smooth FFB. It's not a subtle upgrade, but a full step up.

Try and find one to test, I don't think you even need to test back-to-back as you'll notice the difference/improvement immediately :)

Mascot
18-01-2016, 14:03
You shouldn't take my word for it of course :), but the difference is amazing. More powerful but above all incredibly smooth FFB. It's not a subtle upgrade, but a full step up.

Try and find one to test, I don't think you even need to test back-to-back as you'll notice the difference/improvement immediately :)

Wow - praise indeed. The CSR-E was a huge step-up from my GT2 so I can't begin to imagine what the CSW feels like.

Thomas Sikora
18-01-2016, 19:28
Hi,
did someone find any changelog for the v231 driver?

MVG Saint
19-01-2016, 19:16
The wheel should be running the latest firmware version (rev.756) which can be found here - http://www.fanatec.com/download/PWTS%20756.zip . To check his current fw version, he needs to turn on the wheel into stand-by mode (--- on the display) and press the four lower main buttons all together on the rim (see pic below). This will display the firmware version and also toggle between fan operation modes (always on - temperature controlled - always on), so to keep the current fan mode repeat the button sequence.

To connect the wheel and game; launch the game with the controller and when you see 'Press X' (to start the game), power on the wheel, switch it to PC mode (press and hold the 'Back' button on wheel) then use the wheel's X button to start the game.

(EDIT: You're not ValiantSaint from Forza by any chance are you?)

225476

Hello, Mr Savoury. It is indeed ValiantSaint from Forza. How the devil are you? Are you still putting in the (virtual) miles on the racetracks of the world? Thanks for the help. I've passed it onto my friend (Who still has your pedal bar with my old setup - thanks again)

Sum Dixon-Ear
20-01-2016, 12:23
Hello yourself Mr Saint! I'm good mate, hope all is well with you too... been a while.

I am indeed still, relentlessly, torturing the binary ribbons of Lapland... I never learn.

Take care, me old mucker.

MVG Saint
22-01-2016, 19:05
Hello yourself Mr Saint! I'm good mate, hope all is well with you too... been a while.

I am indeed still, relentlessly, torturing the binary ribbons of Lapland... I never learn.

Take care, me old mucker.

Nice to hear from you, Sav. Sorry I left you in the lurch jumping to the darkside with the PS4. I wanted to go back to Forza, but after they took out the adjustable race settings in the private lobbies, there was no reason to return *sobs*

You take care, as well :)

Linx
22-01-2016, 19:31
Since this is the Fanatec support thread I have a question. I just recently bought a CSW V2 base. When trying to put on and pull off my rims it's really hard and tight. Putting them on I have to give it a hard push and especially when pulling them off I have to put one hand on the base to support it while I pull the rim off. I almost smacked myself in the face while trying to pull of the BMW rim. I also noticed I got a rubber O ring in a little baggie with the base. I do see there's a rubber O ring on the shaft so I figured this is a spare. The rims slide on and off easily with my V1 base. Is this happening because the base is new and will eventually become easier?

Fanapryde
22-01-2016, 19:41
Since this is the Fanatec support thread I have a question. I just recently bought a CSW V2 base. When trying to put on and pull off my rims it's really hard and tight. Putting them on I have to give it a hard push and especially when pulling them off I have to put one hand on the base to support it while I pull the rim off. I almost smacked myself in the face while trying to pull of the BMW rim. I also noticed I got a rubber O ring in a little baggie with the base. I do see there's a rubber O ring on the shaft so I figured this is a spare. The rims slide on and off easily with my V1 base. Is this happening because the base is new and will eventually become easier?
It is supposed to be that way: as liitle play as possible. No need for the securing screw on the V2.
It will become a bit less thight in time. Just be careful when removing the rim.

Sum Dixon-Ear
22-01-2016, 23:33
Nice to hear from you, Sav. Sorry I left you in the lurch jumping to the darkside with the PS4. I wanted to go back to Forza, but after they took out the adjustable race settings in the private lobbies, there was no reason to return *sobs*

You take care, as well :)

You're on PS4?!? If so, fire me a FR... same old GT, Savoury69.

Cabriojoschy
23-01-2016, 17:09
Sorry to ask this again, but does anybody gets the Fanatec Handbrake to work on PS4???

Linx
23-01-2016, 17:28
Sorry to ask this again, but does anybody gets the Fanatec Handbrake to work on PS4???
Don't know how many times I've asked this and never got an answer. I remember on one of the update release notes it said the Fanatec handbrake now works but I still can't get it to. I think the problem is the handbrake has a potentiometer in it while the game only recognizes a switch. I have plans to install a switch in my handbrake and run the wires to my button box. It'll be an independent switch so that I don't have to hack into any of the handbrakes internals and keep it unmolested incase this issue is ever fixed or I decide to sell the handbrake. But yeah I wish they would fix this especially with Mad Mike's car coming out in the next DLC.

Sankyo
23-01-2016, 18:13
Do you guys have the latest firmware installed on the wheel?

Linx
23-01-2016, 18:20
Do you guys have the latest firmware installed on the wheel?
Yeah. I just bought a CSW V2 and first thing I did when I received it is update the firmware. Still doesn't work and didn't work with my V1 either. I was wondering if my connection to the pedals wasn't good or secure but the handbrake reads fine in the Fanatec software. It's a shame such a nice piece of equipment can only be used for looking good mounted to my rig.

Sankyo
23-01-2016, 18:45
Yeah. I just bought a CSW V2 and first thing I did when I received it is update the firmware. Still doesn't work and didn't work with my V1 either. I was wondering if my connection to the pedals wasn't good or secure but the handbrake reads fine in the Fanatec software. It's a shame such a nice piece of equipment can only be used for looking good mounted to my rig.

I'll check again with the devs on Monday. On PC it works fine.

Linx
23-01-2016, 18:51
Thanks Remco. I would love that. Just wondering if this handbrake only really works for PC. I remember someone else on this forum mentioned it works fine on their PC. And I also understand it doesn't work on Xbox One (Forza 5/6).

Sankyo
23-01-2016, 18:59
IIRC I asked some time ago already whether it should work and I think they told me it should work. As said, I'll check with the devs on Monday, I think they also don't actually have a handbrake to test it :)

Cabriojoschy
24-01-2016, 09:55
IIRC I asked some time ago already whether it should work and I think they told me it should work. As said, I'll check with the devs on Monday, I think they also don't actually have a handbrake to test it :)
Some people wrote that it's working with the CSR Elite instead of the left stick. But on my CSW I never got it to work.

Sum Dixon-Ear
24-01-2016, 11:57
Speaking of the left pad on the Elite rims; since patch 4.0, we still have no use of the directional functions (L/R/Up/Down)... all we have is the press function which appears as 'Horn' when mapped. As a user of the Formula Rim a horn and handbrake are probably the last things on Earth which we would ever actually want on the wheel. I've had to purchase a button box to offset the removal of 4 working rim buttons... not ideal really.

Cabriojoschy
24-01-2016, 16:48
Speaking of the left pad on the Elite rims; since patch 4.0, we still have no use of the directional functions (L/R/Up/Down)... all we have is the press function which appears as 'Horn' when mapped. As a user of the Formula Rim a horn and handbrake are probably the last things on Earth which we would ever actually want on the wheel. I've had to purchase a button box to offset the removal of 4 working rim buttons... not ideal really.
Sure that this is not the ideal solution. I don't understand why we have to loose the functions of the stick to make a handbrake work. But even if you don't need a handbrake or a horn, there are many of us who would like to use the existing hardware. There must be a solution which fits all of us...

Moody plum
25-01-2016, 16:52
Hi flashed the wheel but do you no how to get the pedals working I have csp v1

Sum Dixon-Ear
25-01-2016, 17:31
Hi flashed the wheel but do you no how to get the pedals working I have csp v1

You need to either plug them directly into a USB port on the PS4 or through the wheel with the PS/2 cable, make sure you have calibrated them in game and that the correct functions are mapped to each individual pedal, i.e. accelerator, brake and clutch.

Sankyo
25-01-2016, 17:48
You need to either plug them directly into a USB port on the PS4 or through the wheel with the PS/2 cable, make sure you have calibrated them in game and that the correct functions are mapped to each individual pedal, i.e. accelerator, brake and clutch.

And the correct order is to first assign the pedals and then calibrate them :)

Sum Dixon-Ear
25-01-2016, 18:08
Yeah, thanks Remco...

225990

Sankyo
26-01-2016, 08:15
Yeah, thanks Remco...

You don't want to know the number of 'pedals won't calibrate' reports we got in the past because pedals were not assigned first :rolleyes:

Fanapryde
26-01-2016, 08:50
Speaking of the left pad on the Elite rims; since patch 4.0, we still have no use of the directional functions (L/R/Up/Down)... all we have is the press function which appears as 'Horn' when mapped.
There is a "Horn" ? :frog:

Sum Dixon-Ear
26-01-2016, 08:57
You don't want to know the number of 'pedals won't calibrate' reports we got in the past because pedals were not assigned first :rolleyes:

Ok then...

I was providing all the right instuctions,

226013

P.S. -
You don't want to know the number of 'pedals won't calibrate' reports we got in the past...

Gretel would! ;)

Sum Dixon-Ear
26-01-2016, 08:58
There is a "Horn" ? :frog:

Not in game unfortunately... that is just the name assigned to the button when mapped. (I got all excited as well!)

Fanapryde
26-01-2016, 09:42
Not in game unfortunately... that is just the name assigned to the button when mapped. (I got all excited as well!)
Thanks. Not that a horn would excite me too much, but I thought I missed something...:)

BN01
26-01-2016, 11:15
Hi Guys,

Anyone using CSW V2 have issues with it missing gears on downshift? Mine just randomly will either not shift, or shift multiple gears in one go. I'm using the Xbox hub.

Sankyo
26-01-2016, 11:36
Hi Guys,

Anyone using CSW V2 have issues with it missing gears on downshift? Mine just randomly will either not shift, or shift multiple gears in one go. I'm using the Xbox hub.
What car(s)?

Moody plum
26-01-2016, 17:09
Hi I've got fanatec gt2 wheel csp v1 any ideas why I keep getting disconnected got latest firmware on wheel thanks

Sankyo
26-01-2016, 20:23
Hi I've got fanatec gt2 wheel csp v1 any ideas why I keep getting disconnected got latest firmware on wheel thanks
I guess you mean that the wheel gets disconnected? How do you have the pedals connected? Separate through USB or through the wheel? If the former, do the pedals also get disconnected?

Some general things:
- did you try different USB ports?
- did you disable USB power saving in Windows?
- does the disconnect happen in certain situations, or after a certain time?

Sum Dixon-Ear
26-01-2016, 20:29
According to his first ever post, he's on PS4 Remco.

Sankyo
26-01-2016, 20:30
According to his first ever post, he's on PS4 Remco.
Dang, didn't look at the thread title.

Scrap the first two questions then :)

Mascot
27-01-2016, 12:10
Had my first loss of FFB the other night since changing the motors. A power cycle quickly brought it back, but I was hoping the problem was totally eradicated. It seems not. Bah..!

Fanapryde
27-01-2016, 12:20
Since a few days I am losing FFB from my V2 for a very short moment a few times each race. Wheel idles left of right (on a straight), seemingly without impact on my driving line. It happened a time or two when hitting the brake too, sometimes together with the engine revving much to high...
Thing is: it also happened while driving in the RaceRoom sim, be it a bit different.
So it is probably not the sims, but something with the V2 ?
Anyone else ? Or what can trigger this ?
The base does not seem to be warm.
I did have a very high pitch noise two weeks ago. It lasted for a few days, then it was gone, but I don't hear the fan any more (while it was audible - very faint - before that).
I wanted to contact Fanatec, but since the high pitch noise disappeared, I did not...

Sum Dixon-Ear
27-01-2016, 12:22
Had my first loss of FFB the other night since changing the motors. A power cycle quickly brought it back, but I was hoping the problem was totally eradicated. It seems not. Bah..!

Hopefully just the 'standard', start of session, FFB's gone on it's holidays again bug and nothing more serious mate!

Sum Dixon-Ear
27-01-2016, 12:33
Since a few days I am losing FFB from my V2 for a very short moment a few times each race. Wheel idles left of right (on a straight), seemingly without impact on my driving line. It happened a time or two when hitting the brake too, sometimes together with the engine revving much to high...
Thing is: it also happened while driving in the RaceRoom sim, be it a bit different.
So it is probably not the sims, but something with the V2 ?
Anyone else ? Or what can trigger this ?
The base does not seem to be warm.
I did have a very high pitch noise two weeks ago. It lasted for a few days, then it was gone, but I don't hear the fan any more (while it was audible - very faint - before that).
I wqanted to contact Fanatec, but since the high pitch noise disappeared, I did not...

That doesn't sound right at all, I think a word with Fanatec support might be wise bud.

Sankyo
27-01-2016, 13:22
Since a few days I am losing FFB from my V2 for a very short moment a few times each race. Wheel idles left of right (on a straight), seemingly without impact on my driving line. It happened a time or two when hitting the brake too, sometimes together with the engine revving much to high...
Thing is: it also happened while driving in the RaceRoom sim, be it a bit different.
So it is probably not the sims, but something with the V2 ?
Anyone else ? Or what can trigger this ?
The base does not seem to be warm.
I did have a very high pitch noise two weeks ago. It lasted for a few days, then it was gone, but I don't hear the fan any more (while it was audible - very faint - before that).
I wanted to contact Fanatec, but since the high pitch noise disappeared, I did not...
You can check visually whether the fan at the back of the base is turning or not. If it doesn't at all, even when racing for some time, it's not good and you'll have to contact Fanatec Support right-away.

What you're describing seems like a wheel connection issue, did you try changing the USB port?
Still, even if the fan works but you still get the disconnects, as Sum already stated you should contact them anyway as it doesn't sound right.

BN01
27-01-2016, 13:43
What car(s)?

Was doing it mostly recently with the Bentley GT3. First time I noticed it was with the Ginetta Junior and thought maybe it was just because I'm shifting a proper manual using paddles and no clutch, but surely the Bentley shouldn't be affected?

Sankyo
27-01-2016, 14:13
Was doing it mostly recently with the Bentley GT3. First time I noticed it was with the Ginetta Junior and thought maybe it was just because I'm shifting a proper manual using paddles and no clutch, but surely the Bentley shouldn't be affected?

Missing downshifts might be due to shifting too fast for a hard-coded delay if it's there, but getting double shifts sounds like a paddle shifter (hardware) issue.

Mascot
27-01-2016, 15:35
Hopefully just the 'standard', start of session, FFB's gone on it's holidays again bug and nothing more serious mate!

Hopefully so. Just in case it's not, I've started wearing my GoPro head mount and recording everything I do during the day in anticipation of Fanatec wanting a video of me opening a bottle of milk wearing a blue teeshirt and a red hat with a copy of today's newspaper under my arm, or some other such random nonsense that they always seem to request as 'proof' that their hardware has failed once again.

Swanny
27-01-2016, 15:39
Hi, was wandering if any one else has had this issue. PROJECT CARS FREEZING. I have a CSR wheel, CSR Elite V2 pedals and SQ Shifter. Project cars runs for about 10 - 15 mins on average. I have read all the other posts reference settings for the wheel and game. They made a huge difference. Now if only the game itself would stop freezing. I have to restart everytime and it's doing my nut in. I will say that last night was the best as I got over an hour and a half before freezing. I was enjoying the racing that much, I didn't notice time going by. If anyone can help, even the makers who must be getting bored with all the moaning about 'other wheels' it would be greatly appreciated.

Sum Dixon-Ear
27-01-2016, 15:41
Hi, was wandering if any one else has had this issue. PROJECT CARS FREEZING. I have a CSR wheel, CSR Elite V2 pedals and SQ Shifter. Project cars runs for about 10 - 15 mins on average. I have read all the other posts reference settings for the wheel and game. They made a huge difference. Now if only the game itself would stop freezing. I have to restart everytime and it's doing my nut in. I will say that last night was the best as I got over an hour and a half before freezing. I was enjoying the racing that much, I didn't notice time going by. If anyone can help, even the makers who must be getting bored with all the moaning about 'other wheels' it would be greatly appreciated.

I would try rebuilding the PS4 database and a fresh install of the game first of all.

Swanny
27-01-2016, 17:16
Many thanks, I will give it a go.

Swanny
27-01-2016, 20:19
Did as you suggested, all was going well. No 'reconnect controller ' issues and no other runaway steering wheel problems, then 25 of 28 laps in a GT race and it freezed again. This is so frustrating. I don't want to get rid of my setup over a game. It cost too much to sacrifice and I wouldn't get enough to cover for an upgraded setup. Something has to work. Thanks for your help though.

Sum Dixon-Ear
27-01-2016, 20:35
Is the wheel disconnecting from the game randomly?

Cabriojoschy
27-01-2016, 20:59
Remco any feedback from the devs regarding the handbrake so far?

Swanny
27-01-2016, 21:18
Is the wheel disconnecting from the game randomly?

Yeh every now and then I get the box appear asking to reconnect the wheel. Normally not an issue, with the odd occasion that I have to restart. It's the freezing that's really annoying.

Sum Dixon-Ear
27-01-2016, 21:32
Yeh every now and then I get the box appear asking to reconnect the wheel. Normally not an issue, with the odd occasion that I have to restart. It's the freezing that's really annoying.

Are you definitely on the latest firmware (rev.756)?

Sankyo
27-01-2016, 21:34
Yeh every now and then I get the box appear asking to reconnect the wheel. Normally not an issue, with the odd occasion that I have to restart. It's the freezing that's really annoying.

What kind of set-up are you using? It sounds a bit like a static electricity problem that I've seen reported a few times with Playseat set-ups, which you could try and resolve by grounding your seat and wheel base.

Swanny
27-01-2016, 21:51
Are you definitely on the latest firmware (rev.756)?

Yeh mate, definitely on the latest firmware.

Swanny
27-01-2016, 21:55
What kind of set-up are you using? It sounds a bit like a static electricity problem that I've seen reported a few times with Playseat set-ups, which you could try and resolve by grounding your seat and wheel base.

Got CSR WHEEL, CSR ELITE PEDALS and SQ SHIFTER mounted to a wheel stand pro. Had this set up for a couple of years primarily on the xbox 360 for forza 4 which I sold along with my ps3 to get the ps4. Hence the raised frustration levels and not understanding why it's not working properly.

Mascot
27-01-2016, 22:20
Yeh every now and then I get the box appear asking to reconnect the wheel. Normally not an issue, with the odd occasion that I have to restart. It's the freezing that's really annoying.

I had this exact problem. After much faffing about and time wasted trying different suggestions, new FFB motors finally solved it.

Swanny
28-01-2016, 03:34
Not to disprove your reply but how can my setup work no problem with forza 4 one day and then the next on ps4 with project cars not work at all. It amazes me how many people out there have setups for certain platforms for certain games have no issues then get hit by a ton of them. Don't get me wrong but this sim is by far the best for a while, but why are fanatec users having so many snags. I ditched forza for project cars for a number of reasons, one of them being this wheel is compatible with ps4. Massive selling point due to the driving games available. If it is my rig at fault then I'll be the first to put my hands up. The problem so far is with project cars. Surely the techies know about it?

Mascot
28-01-2016, 08:26
Not to disprove your reply but how can my setup work no problem with forza 4 one day and then the next on ps4 with project cars not work at all. It amazes me how many people out there have setups for certain platforms for certain games have no issues then get hit by a ton of them. Don't get me wrong but this sim is by far the best for a while, but why are fanatec users having so many snags. I ditched forza for project cars for a number of reasons, one of them being this wheel is compatible with ps4. Massive selling point due to the driving games available. If it is my rig at fault then I'll be the first to put my hands up. The problem so far is with project cars. Surely the techies know about it?

I'm not entirely sure - I'm just sharing my own experience. There did not feel to be anything wrong with my FFB (no grinding, weak feel, mid-race loss of power etc) but new FFB motors instantly solved the disconnections and crashes. During testing I did have the same disconnections with Forza though so I knew it wasn't a game-specific problem.

Does pCARS somehow emulate Fanatec compatibility on PS4, rather than it being 'officially' supported? I've no idea, but if so, that could be where some glitches lie.

Swanny
28-01-2016, 10:03
Was replacing the ffb motors an easy swap and do you know if they are available? I may have to wait out and test my setup on my pc.

Mascot
28-01-2016, 11:18
Was replacing the ffb motors an easy swap and do you know if they are available? I may have to wait out and test my setup on my pc.

Yes and no.

Check post #2221 onwards in this very thread.

Sum Dixon-Ear
28-01-2016, 11:39
Was replacing the ffb motors an easy swap and do you know if they are available? I may have to wait out and test my setup on my pc.

The CSR/Porsche wheels were never designed for any interior repairs/replacement parts, as far as I know Fanatec have never stocked motors or other parts for this reason. Mascot replaced the motor block in a CSR Elite which (along with the CSWs) was designed in a manner to make replacement components easier to fit which is why Fanatec stock parts and he was able to do the job (just about!). If a component failed in the 911/CSR wheels then Fanatec would simply replace the entire unit instead of individual components.

I think further testing is the way ahead in order to try and isolate what's causing the disconnects.

A) Have you tried swapping USB ports on the PS4 and/or the USB cable from the wheel to see if that makes any difference?

B) Do the wheel and console simply lose the connection or does the wheel lose power causing the disconnect?

Mascot
28-01-2016, 13:29
Ah, sorry - thought it was a CSR-E that the wee chap had.

Swanny
28-01-2016, 16:30
Going to buy a new cable for the wheel as it's the one that came with it still. The wheel doesn't lose power but it's as if they don't communicate for a split second. If it is a cable replacement then I'll be happy with resolving the disconnecting issue. The bigger problem though is the entire sim freezing. I appreciate that one thing at a time needs sorting but I truly am baffled. When it does freeze this includes the sound of the engine screaming out of the TV. Then the wheel will spin hard left or right until it's reaches the stops.
Your help is much appreciated.

Fanapryde
28-01-2016, 17:11
You can check visually whether the fan at the back of the base is turning or not. If it doesn't at all, even when racing for some time, it's not good and you'll have to contact Fanatec Support right-away.

What you're describing seems like a wheel connection issue, did you try changing the USB port?
Still, even if the fan works but you still get the disconnects, as Sum already stated you should contact them anyway as it doesn't sound right.

Have not had any issues last two days. I changed nothing, but now I can clearly hear the fan working (which I could not when I had the issues).
Not going to alarm Fanatec yet...;)

CreamyDischarge
29-01-2016, 17:05
Anyone able to map CSHB on PCars v8?

nhraracer
29-01-2016, 19:55
Hello all. Been talking with Remco. I have a cw v2 with the xbox one hub (which is the same as the universal hub). He said to post here to see if any of you are having this issue. I am actually experiencing this on xbox one as well, but works fine on pc. When i try to map the top three pod switches, they remove my throttle, brake and shifter maps from my pedals and shifter (man i hope that makes sense! lol). So basically when i try to map lets say the top left three switch pod for things like headlights and wipers, it automatically removes the throttle and brake from my pedals. While in game i can actually use either my pedals or the top switches to drive. Anyone else experiencing this? Thanks

Moody plum
30-01-2016, 15:39
Hi I'm having disconnection issues with my wheel and pedals Porsche gt2 and csp v1 wanted to try a new cable were are you getting yours from and what is the cable called.also does anyone no if you can connect csp to the other USB port on the ps4.thanks

Sum Dixon-Ear
30-01-2016, 15:53
All you need is a standard USB 'A' to USB 'B' cable, you'll pick one up very cheap from eBay etc (sometimes listed as a 'printer USB cable').

You can connect the pedals directly to the PS4 via USB, they work fine as a stand-alone device but the ABS rumble from the wheel to brake pedal will not be active any more.

Sum Dixon-Ear
31-01-2016, 20:11
Question for you Remco; I noticed there are updated firmware versions (Win 10) for Porsche/CSR wheels on the Fanatec site, is that a fix for the certification issue with the USB drivers when updating?

EDIT : Just checked the files and they are now certified until 2018, so I suppose it is!

Sankyo
31-01-2016, 20:43
Question for you Remco; I noticed there are updated firmware versions (Win 10) for Porsche/CSR wheels on the Fanatec site, is that a fix for the certification issue with the USB drivers when updating?

EDIT : Just checked the files and they are now certified until 2018, so I suppose it is!
Saw it too. Was not aware that it was a certification issue, but I do know that the original updater did not work on Win10 so this is nice of Fanatec to resolve it this way :)

Sum Dixon-Ear
31-01-2016, 20:46
Saw it too. Was not aware that it was a certification issue, but I do know that the original updater did not work on Win10 so this is nice of Fanatec to resolve it this way :)

Indeed... the updater wouldn't work reliably on Windows operating systems past XP, I believe, unless you rolled back your PC clock to pre-July 2015... the date the old port drivers certification ran out.

nhraracer
31-01-2016, 23:20
Hello all. Been talking with Remco. I have a cw v2 with the xbox one hub (which is the same as the universal hub). He said to post here to see if any of you are having this issue. I am actually experiencing this on xbox one as well, but works fine on pc. When i try to map the top three pod switches, they remove my throttle, brake and shifter maps from my pedals and shifter (man i hope that makes sense! lol). So basically when i try to map lets say the top left three switch pod for things like headlights and wipers, it automatically removes the throttle and brake from my pedals. While in game i can actually use either my pedals or the top switches to drive. Anyone else experiencing this? Thanks


Anyone have a csw v2 with universal\xbox one hub that can check this?

Swanny
02-02-2016, 23:03
The CSR/Porsche wheels were never designed for any interior repairs/replacement parts, as far as I know Fanatec have never stocked motors or other parts for this reason. Mascot replaced the motor block in a CSR Elite which (along with the CSWs) was designed in a manner to make replacement components easier to fit which is why Fanatec stock parts and he was able to do the job (just about!). If a component failed in the 911/CSR wheels then Fanatec would simply replace the entire unit instead of individual components.

I think further testing is the way ahead in order to try and isolate what's causing the disconnects.

A) Have you tried swapping USB ports on the PS4 and/or the USB cable from the wheel to see if that makes any difference?

B) Do the wheel and console simply lose the connection or does the wheel lose power causing the disconnect?

You sir, are a diamond. For 5 pound, a new A to B usb cable was all it took. Bought it, plugged it in and just had 6 non stop hours without any problems. I apologise profusely to sms for blaming their software and many thanks to all those who helped. Thank you.

Fanapryde
02-02-2016, 23:14
You can check visually whether the fan at the back of the base is turning or not. If it doesn't at all, even when racing for some time, it's not good and you'll have to contact Fanatec Support right-away.

What you're describing seems like a wheel connection issue, did you try changing the USB port?
Still, even if the fan works but you still get the disconnects, as Sum already stated you should contact them anyway as it doesn't sound right.

V2 base gave up on me.
RMA to Endor, hopefully it won't take too long. Customer service was very prompt and helpful, hope the repair division does the same job.
Dang ! At least 10 days no racing...:frown-new:

Linx
03-02-2016, 01:30
I'll check again with the devs on Monday. On PC it works fine.

Remco did you ever get a chance to check on this handbrake issue?

GrimeyDog
03-02-2016, 12:26
Remco Van Dijk Can you tell me where and what kind of RJ11 cable wire that i Need to get to make My CSS SQ-H Shifter Wire Longer???
I can allready confirm that its Not just a Regular Rj11 wire because the Fantec Wire only has 5 wires and My Regular Rj11 Has 6 wires and when i plug that 1 up the V2 base wont even turn on(theres a extra Blue wire but end to end the colors line up...Ex: Blue last Left slot both ends).... The wire that Fanatec sent everything works fine but its very short maybe 3 or 4 feel i need 8 to 10ft. is there a special cable i need to order???

Mascot
03-02-2016, 12:26
My backup rig:

http://i.giphy.com/3o7ZepkD5lhj9uOZLW.gif

Sankyo
03-02-2016, 13:05
Remco did you ever get a chance to check on this handbrake issue?
Unfortunately the responsible dev is ill, so no answer yet (the other devs don't have the hardware).

Sankyo
03-02-2016, 13:14
Remco Van Dijk Can you tell me where and what kind of RJ11 cable wire that i Need to get to make My CSS SQ-H Shifter Wire Longer???
I can allready confirm that its Not just a Regular Rj11 wire because the Fantec Wire only has 5 wires and My Regular Rj11 Has 6 wires and when i plug that 1 up the V2 base wont even turn on(theres a extra Blue wire but end to end the colors line up...Ex: Blue last Left slot both ends).... The wire that Fanatec sent everything works fine but its very short maybe 3 or 4 feel i need 8 to 10ft. is there a special cable i need to order???
They are standard RJ12 cables.

boksandbom
04-02-2016, 15:54
just got a new fanatec set up for Ps4
csw V2 csp V3 and shifter SQ
on my pedals i have throttle vibrations but not brake vibrations ? firware are updated did i miss something to activate it ?
.
Worst is i have a very hard time setting my wheel i was on a t 300 and it was very good now im kind of dissapointed of the csw base the whell fell loose i want it to be more tigh not nescesserally stronger but thighter....any help would be appreciated, i already try tons of set up but cant get it right as it was on my t 300
Thanks

Sankyo
04-02-2016, 18:37
Are you sure you got to locking the brakes? Brake vibration only happens when locking up.

Linx
04-02-2016, 18:42
Is there any way to run a test for the brake pedal vibration? I have CSP V2 and don't believe I've ever felt them vibrate. Bought them used so wondering if I got them not working.

Sankyo
04-02-2016, 18:43
Is there any way to run a test for the brake pedal vibration? I have CSP V2 and don't believe I've ever felt them vibrate. Bought them used so wondering if I got them not working.

You'd have to connect the pedals to a PC with the Fanatec driver installed, then you can test the vibration motor in the Fanatec driver window.

malny
06-02-2016, 18:49
in case anyone has not yet discovered.... the handbrake works! must be connected to the pedals, the pedals must be connected to ps4 separately from the base csw. if you connect the pedal to the base does not work!

Linx
06-02-2016, 19:01
That's good news but my problem is I don't have any open USB ports. I'm using one for my wheel and another one for my button box. And if I remember correctly no one has had any success with USB hubs consistently working with ps4.

Linx
06-02-2016, 19:05
By the way, how do you connect the pedals to ps4? The pedals have a ps2 connection and that other (forget the name) square connection intended for PC. Do I have to get a wire that has that square connector to usbUSB?

Sankyo
06-02-2016, 19:18
By the way, how do you connect the pedals to ps4? The pedals have a ps2 connection and that other (forget the name) square connection intended for PC. Do I have to get a wire that has that square connector to usbUSB?
The PS2 connector is to connect it to the wheel. The other = USB connector is to connect it directly to PC or PS4.

Linx
06-02-2016, 19:26
Ok. But being if, as the previous poster said to connect pedals to ps4, how would I connect the pedals to ps4? I know I would use the pc port on the pedals (not the ps2) but the other end would have to be a USB. I don't think I have a wire with those two different connections on each end. But do they sell them in that configuration? Also, Remco, do you have any insight on using a USB hub on a PS4? As I said earlier, I remember reading people were having issues with powered/unpowered USB hubs

Sankyo
06-02-2016, 19:30
Ok. But being if, as the previous poster said to connect pedals to ps4, how would I connect the pedals to ps4? I know I would use the pc port on the pedals (not the ps2) but the other end would have to be a USB. I don't think I have a wire with those two different connections on each end. But do they sell them in that configuration? Also, Remco, do you have any insight on using a USB hub on a PS4? As I said earlier, I remember reading people were having issues with powered/unpowered USB hubs
The USB cable to connect the pedals to PC or PS4 should have come with the pedals. If you don't have it, it's basically a standard USB printer cable that you can buy in any electronics shop.

As for using a USB HUB on a PS4, I have no idea since I don't have a PS4, but I guess there's plenty to find about that on the internet.

Linx
07-02-2016, 02:04
So today I connected a wire to each port on the csp box- one to the ps2 port and one to the USB printer style port. I will only plug one of the other ends of the wire at a time to the console/computer. While I know Fanatec specifies not to use both ports at the same time, is this ok with what I'm doing? Like I said I will only have one wire connected at both ends at the same time, but both ports on the csp box will have a wire plugged in. I'm doing this because I want the ability to be connected to my wheel or ps4/PC and the way my pedals are mounted requires a lot of work to get to the box.

GrimeyDog
07-02-2016, 03:05
So today I connected a wire to each port on the csp box- one to the ps2 port and one to the USB printer style port. I will only plug one of the other ends of the wire at a time to the console/computer. While I know Fanatec specifies not to use both ports at the same time, is this ok with what I'm doing? Like I said I will only have one wire connected at both ends at the same time, but both ports on the csp box will have a wire plugged in. I'm doing this because I want the ability to be connected to my wheel or ps4/PC and the way my pedals are mounted requires a lot of work to get to the box.

Thats Fine i Have My V3 pedals the Same way...as you said i just Never Plug them both in at same time.

Sankyo
07-02-2016, 10:29
Yep, that's how I do it as well to prevent having to dive under the Playseat or remove the footrest plate when I want to change connections.

Cabriojoschy
07-02-2016, 10:42
Just tried you hint regarding the handbrake. Works flawlessly :D:D:D
I'm using a powered USB hub, had no problems so far. Used it already before connecting the pedals directly via USB...
(Button box, headset, controller charging cable and CSW)

Linx
07-02-2016, 11:17
Just tried you hint regarding the handbrake. Works flawlessly :D:D:D
I'm using a powered USB hub, had no problems so far. Used it already before connecting the pedals directly via USB...
(Button box, headset, controller charging cable and CSW)
I can confirm this. Went and got what I needed today. Powered USB working fine so far. Handbrake works!! After all this time it just sitting there looking pretty. Question, can the pedals be hooked to XBone through USB or wheel only? Would like to see if handbrake works on there too.

Mascot
08-02-2016, 08:16
You handbrake owners: when do you use it in pCARS? Is it just for the start of the race, or for drifting?
I must admit I've never felt the need to use a handbrake.

boksandbom
08-02-2016, 08:30
Are you sure you got to locking the brakes? Brake vibration only happens when locking up.



Sorry for the late answer Remco
no brake vibartion at all even when i lock the brakes but pedals is workin fine

My real problem is the CSW base v 2,
i ve been tweaking FFB ( grimey s dogs, jack spade etc..) all week end and cant get it right.
My firmware is 142

my problems are the following :

- Massive deadzone in the center, the wheel feel loose, it s my main problem the wooble in the center, wheel is not tight
- loss of FFB
- no consistencey in FFB


Can it be my wheel ?
i don t knoiw what to do i, only play on ps 4 and cannot test it with other games

Nowhere near as good as my T 300 ? i m actually very frustrated spending so much money and can t get it work
i ll take any piece of advice

thanks

Sankyo
08-02-2016, 08:49
I can confirm this. Went and got what I needed today. Powered USB working fine so far. Handbrake works!! After all this time it just sitting there looking pretty. Question, can the pedals be hooked to XBone through USB or wheel only? Would like to see if handbrake works on there too.
AFAIK on XB1 pedals can only be used through the wheel.

Sankyo
08-02-2016, 08:51
Sorry for the late answer Remco
no brake vibartion at all even when i lock the brakes but pedals is workin fine

My real problem is the CSW base v 2,
i ve been tweaking FFB ( grimey s dogs, jack spade etc..) all week end and cant get it right.
My firmware is 142

my problems are the following :

- Massive deadzone in the center, the wheel feel loose, it s my main problem the wooble in the center, wheel is not tight
- loss of FFB
- no consistencey in FFB


Can it be my wheel ?
i don t knoiw what to do i, only play on ps 4 and cannot test it with other games

Nowhere near as good as my T 300 ? i m actually very frustrated spending so much money and can t get it work
i ll take any piece of advice

thanks
I don't think it's your wheel just yet. Could you give more details, like when the problems (e.g. FFB loss) happpen (e.g. online), after how long, in what situations, etc.?

What other controllers do you have connected? Have you tried switching USB ports?

boksandbom
08-02-2016, 10:24
I don't think it's your wheel just yet. Could you give more details, like when the problems (e.g. FFB loss) happpen (e.g. online), after how long, in what situations, etc.?

What other controllers do you have connected? Have you tried switching USB ports?

I'm only doing testing for the moment so the ffb loss doesnt happen online. i actually have not yet play online with the v 2 base.

i'm always playing time attack mode or communauty event for the moment to try and get a feel for the FFB
the ffb loss tippicaly happen when i change the ffb settings and go back in mode to play.
i need to restart the base to get FFB or exit the mode.

My csw base is plugged directly to usb port 1 of PS4, Port 2 there's a hub in which are connected my bluettooth head phone and a button box, i m also using a bluettoth keyboard

i already try to delete my game; but couldn t delete all my saves !?

deadzone in the center is my main problem,

all in all i can t get it right.
Do i have to run some test on pc with the drivers ?

BigDad
08-02-2016, 13:49
I'm only doing testing for the moment so the ffb loss doesnt happen online. i actually have not yet play online with the v 2 base.

i'm always playing time attack mode or communauty event for the moment to try and get a feel for the FFB
the ffb loss tippicaly happen when i change the ffb settings and go back in mode to play.
i need to restart the base to get FFB or exit the mode.

My csw base is plugged directly to usb port 1 of PS4, Port 2 there's a hub in which are connected my bluettooth head phone and a button box, i m also using a bluettoth keyboard

i already try to delete my game; but couldn t delete all my saves !?

deadzone in the center is my main problem,

all in all i can t get it right.
Do i have to run some test on pc with the drivers ?
Just a thought , if you wanted to test it on a different game you could download Sebastian loed rally demo .
Just a thought . Wont cost anything and its a quick download .

GrimeyDog
08-02-2016, 15:21
Sorry for the late answer Remco
no brake vibartion at all even when i lock the brakes but pedals is workin fine

My real problem is the CSW base v 2,
i ve been tweaking FFB ( grimey s dogs, jack spade etc..) all week end and cant get it right.
My firmware is 142

my problems are the following :

- Massive deadzone in the center, the wheel feel loose, it s my main problem the wooble in the center, wheel is not tight
- loss of FFB
- no consistencey in FFB


Can it be my wheel ?
i don t knoiw what to do i, only play on ps 4 and cannot test it with other games

Nowhere near as good as my T 300 ? i m actually very frustrated spending so much money and can t get it work
i ll take any piece of advice

thanks

You Need to Reset your Controller Bindings... Go to controller page and Push Green Triangle Button to reset all Button Mapping and Global Settings...I had to Reset a Few times after 8.0 to get the update Locked in and working Right....

to delete your Game Profile you Need to Delete Hard Drive and Cloud game save...thats what i usually do ater a update... Strange My Game settings didn't delete either but i figured i missed deleting something... I dunno... But in any event ... Controller Screeen ---> Green Triangle to Reset... do it More than once....----> Reprogram your Global settings----- Set GM FFB and Pedal Dead Zones and you should be good to go.


The FFB will come back... In the words of my dude Gamer82678 "Sweeter than Bear Meat" LOL

send Me a PM or post in My thread if you Need Help...

boksandbom
08-02-2016, 16:38
You Need to Reset your Controlor Bindings... Go to controlor page and Push Green Triangle Button to reset all Button Mapping and Global Settings...I had to Reset a Few times after 8.0 to get the update Locked in and working Right....

to delete your Game Profile you Need to Delete Hard Drive and Cloud game save...thats what i usually do ater a update... Strange My Game settings didn't delete either but i figured i missed deleting something... I dunno... But in any event ... Controlor Screeen ---> Green Triangle to Reset... do it More than once....----> Reprogram your Global settings----- Set GM FFB and Pedal Dead Zones and you should be good to go.


The FFB will come back... In the words of my dude Gamer82678 "Sweeter than Bear Meat" LOL

send Me a PM or post in My thread if you Need Help...


Thanks grimey i ll test that tonight and informe you.
It s not that much the ffb disapeering it s more about inconstency and that wooble feeling near the center.

Linx
08-02-2016, 16:40
You handbrake owners: when do you use it in pCARS? Is it just for the start of the race, or for drifting?
I must admit I've never felt the need to use a handbrake. For drifting

Fanapryde
08-02-2016, 17:00
V2 base gave up on me.
RMA to Endor, hopefully it won't take too long. Customer service was very prompt and helpful, hope the repair division does the same job.
Dang ! At least 10 days no racing...:frown-new:

Well, if it's good I have to report also !

I got my base back from Endor within 5 (FIVE) days ! And it works like a charm (feels even better than before, but this could be because I used a G27 for a few days).
Quickly answered, quickly repaired and the shipping costs were refunded too.
Absolutely nothing to complain about Endor's after sale services ! Nice job..

GrimeyDog
08-02-2016, 17:07
Thanks grimey i ll test that tonight and informe you.
It s not that much the ffb disapeering it s more about inconstency and that wooble feeling near the center.

Yup... Thats exactly it irratic FFB... controller reset should solve the issue.... Note: i Do Not Calibrate My V2 Wheel or V3 Pedals after reset and all works Fine.

Every update i do a Full Delete Game, Hard Drive Game Save and Cloud Game Save and do a Fresh instal... I do this especially when there are Changes Made to tracks or Tire Grip Levels.

if you dont want to lose your game progress you do a Full Controller Reset and Reprogram your Globals and Button Mapping etc back in... This is the only way that i know for sure that works to Lock in the Changes that have been made to the Global or FFB system.

Mascot
09-02-2016, 09:34
I have a blackout blind in my gaming room and always race in almost total darkness. This can make seeing the black buttons on my black Formula rim very tricky at times, until I had a whisky-fuelled brain fart late last night. You know those little coloured stickers you get with wall planners...?

227109

227110

227111

boksandbom
09-02-2016, 10:57
Just a thought , if you wanted to test it on a different game you could download Sebastian loed rally demo .
Just a thought . Wont cost anything and its a quick download .

Did that, the game s unplayable whell is super heavy almost impossible to turn

Sum Dixon-Ear
09-02-2016, 11:07
I have a blackout blind in my gaming room and always race in almost total darkness. This can make seeing the black buttons on my black Formula rim very tricky at times, until I had a whisky-fuelled brain fart late last night. You know those little coloured stickers you get with wall planners...?

227109

227110

227111

Looking good bud.

If you would like, I could print off and send you down some gloss laminated labels. I have black on white or black on yellow tapes which are 12mm wide, so need a wee bit of hand trimming with scissors to fit on the smaller gaps on the Formula Rim. If you're interested, have a think about the commands and colours you fancy on the rim/button box/whatever and I'll send them down to you asap.

Example -

227114

Mascot
09-02-2016, 13:07
Looking good bud.

If you would like, I could print off and send you down some gloss laminated labels. I have black on white or black on yellow tapes which are 12mm wide, so need a wee bit of hand trimming with scissors to fit on the smaller gaps on the Formula Rim. If you're interested, have a think about the commands and colours you fancy on the rim/button box/whatever and I'll send them down to you asap.

Example -

227114

Ah, thanks bud. I've got one of those Brother label printers myself but haven't got around to labelling things up yet, probably because I keep changing assignments..!
Ta muchly for the offer though!
:)

Sum Dixon-Ear
09-02-2016, 14:10
Are those planner stickers gloss or normal paper? I like the idea of that!

Mascot
09-02-2016, 14:53
Are those planner stickers gloss or normal paper? I like the idea of that!

Kind of a satin finish. Perfect size, too..!

99p delivered from FleaBay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Year-Wall-Planner-Calendar-Holiday-Multi-Coloured-8mm-Dot-Stickers-Diary-/151812636570?var=&hash=item2358bcff9a:m:mYgx-Or1PSPiu3I8Vx1mXsg

Making your wheel look like a bag of Skittles is all the rage, apparently.

227123

Sum Dixon-Ear
09-02-2016, 15:02
Good lad, thank you!

Schumi01
09-02-2016, 15:54
Hi guys, I've got myself some CSR-E pedals for my CSR wheel and I've got some questions. As I'm pretty new to the loadcell thing so they might be a bit ignorant. Sorry for that...

1: which settings r u using 5,6,7,8,9,10? and what Sens setting in-game?
2: Do you plug them into a console or in a PC?

I first had some standard pedals and I was pretty quick with them. But I saw guys in my league braking a bit later then me but still making that corner.. . So I decided to buy me some new pedals. Hoping it would me make a difference. It does, but not in a positive way... I'm really struggling with my braking zones... The zone seem way longer then I had with my standard pedals...

I know I have to get used to them, but it's pretty bad atm.. any help is appreciated

Thanks..

Sum Dixon-Ear
09-02-2016, 16:12
It sounds like you're struggling to apply enough pressure to achieve maximum braking force, I would turn the dial fully clockwise to the position of least resistance to start with. Check your telemetry to see that you're getting full braking with the desired pressure, if not you can add brake force in the car setup menu to help as well.

I think you can plug the Elites either into the wheel or directly to the console's USB ports (don't use both connections at once though). I know that on ClubSport pedals there is a higher resolution via direct USB connection, not sure about the Elites, sorry.

Load cells do need a fair bit of practice with to get used to using pressure instead of travel, good luck.

Linx
09-02-2016, 16:16
The setting on your pedals is set to your preference. If you find yourself having to press the brakes really hard and not slowing down fast enough then turn the dial on the brakes down. Set the dial around 3 or 4 and work your way up to what's good for you. Ofcourse you also wanna adjust your brake pressure in your car tuning to avoid easy lock up. Late braking is also a matter of practice and tuning. If your suspension isn't tuned right then the car can become unstable during hard braking. If you find this happening, make some adjustments to your front dampers as well as a little to the rear. There's really no perfect settings because it's all different depending on car and driver preference.

Linx
09-02-2016, 16:29
BTW, does anyone know how to determine why I'm not getting lock up vibration in my V2 pedals? Bought them used and noticed I wasn't getting the vibration. I hooked them up to my computer the other day using the Fanatec software, and after pressing the "test vibration" button nothing happened. So not sure if there's a way to tell if it's the motors or the circuit board. No big deal as I'm happy the pedals work fine. It'd just be nice to have the extra feature of feeling the lock up.

Sankyo
09-02-2016, 16:53
BTW, does anyone know how to determine why I'm not getting lock up vibration in my V2 pedals? Bought them used and noticed I wasn't getting the vibration. I hooked them up to my computer the other day using the Fanatec software, and after pressing the "test vibration" button nothing happened. So not sure if there's a way to tell if it's the motors or the circuit board. No big deal as I'm happy the pedals work fine. It'd just be nice to have the extra feature of feeling the lock up.

If the motor does not work with the brake vibration test function in the Fanatec Control Panel on PC, then either the motor or circuit board is broken. You'll have to contact Fanatec Support with that.

BTW I tested the brake vibration today in pCARS and it worked fine when locking up the front brakes.

Linx
09-02-2016, 17:28
Thanks Remco. No biggie. I don't wanna have to sit around and can't race due to waiting for repairs. All the more reason to pick up a Butt Kicker

Sum Dixon-Ear
09-02-2016, 17:33
You might as well check that the vibration motor's connector block is properly seated in the pedal PCB... you never know.

Linx
09-02-2016, 17:38
Yeah I removed the foot plate the other day to connect the pedals to USB and I checked then. But I'm gonna check again to be sure.

Sum Dixon-Ear
09-02-2016, 18:39
BTW I tested the brake vibration today in pCARS and it worked fine when locking up the front brakes.

I'd read somewhere that the vibration motor would only activate on PS4 via USB when ABS (in assists) actually kicked in, do you know if it also works on PS4 when you lock up with no ABS active?

boksandbom
09-02-2016, 18:47
If the motor does not work with the brake vibration test function in the Fanatec Control Panel on PC, then either the motor or circuit board is broken. You'll have to contact Fanatec Support with that.

BTW I tested the brake vibration today in pCARS and it worked fine when locking up the front brakes.

Ps4 or pc remko no brake vibrations for me on ps4

Sankyo
10-02-2016, 12:23
I'd read somewhere that the vibration motor would only activate on PS4 via USB when ABS (in assists) actually kicked in, do you know if it also works on PS4 when you lock up with no ABS active?
On all platforms, the rumble motor works both when the wheels lock and when ABS kicks in.

Sankyo
10-02-2016, 13:02
Ps4 or pc remko no brake vibrations for me on ps4
Please contact Fanatec Support, they can help you runs some diagnosis testing without sending your pedals in.

GrimeyDog
13-02-2016, 07:19
Remco is the Fanatec hand brake supported on PS4 when connected through the V3 Pedals??? I cant seem to map the Fanatec hand Brake as the hand brake.

Linx
13-02-2016, 07:28
Grimey, I have the v2 pedals and the only way I was able to get it to work was by hooking the pedals via USB to ps4. I was having the same problem as you trying to map it when I had the pedals hooked to the wheel. Being that the ps4 only has two USB connections and I have my wheel and button box connected to both, I bought a powered USB hub. I remember reading in the past that people were having a problem using a hub but Sony must have fixed that in one of the updates. I've been playing for hours at a time and no issues. Though I did notice it works better with wheel and button box to hub and pedals to console. Could of been a one time freak issue but everything is working fine.

GrimeyDog
13-02-2016, 09:08
Grimey, I have the v2 pedals and the only way I was able to get it to work was by hooking the pedals via USB to ps4. I was having the same problem as you trying to map it when I had the pedals hooked to the wheel. Being that the ps4 only has two USB connections and I have my wheel and button box connected to both, I bought a powered USB hub. I remember reading in the past that people were having a problem using a hub but Sony must have fixed that in one of the updates. I've been playing for hours at a time and no issues. Though I did notice it works better with wheel and button box to hub and pedals to console. Could of been a one time freak issue but everything is working fine.


Thanx for this info...i will try this... i may just order the USB connection plug for the Hand Brake and use it that way the,,,I also use a 4 port powered USB hub with the PS4 and it works Great running my Head phones, Key Board and to charge the controller and its been working Great.

Swanny
13-02-2016, 16:09
This is interesting. Will a powered usb hub allow my fanatec setup to work with a bit more reliability? I ask as since going through a cheap A to B usb cable and a gold plated one and still not having any joy I'm wandering if the option of a powered usb hub is next. Anything to make pcars last longer than half a race before freezing or being non responsive. A new cable lasted for a few hours and now I'm back to where I started.

Linx
13-02-2016, 16:14
This is interesting. Will a powered usb hub allow my fanatec setup to work with a bit more reliability? I ask as since going through a cheap A to B usb cable and a gold plated one and still not having any joy I'm wandering if the option of a powered usb hub is next. Anything to make pcars last longer than half a race before freezing or being non responsive. A new cable lasted for a few hours and now I'm back to where I started.
Not sure about that as I don't really know exactly what's causing your problem. I picked up a powered USB hub for about $10, so it couldn't really hurt if it doesn't fix your problem. And if you buy it from a reputable store I'm sure you can return it and get your money back. Give it a try and let us know the results so that it can help others.

Swanny
13-02-2016, 16:44
Many thanks for the reply, it can't hurt I suppose. Pcars is awesome even if it does get bad feedback at times (me included). I'm just trying to get my rig to work first before selling it for a different one.

Fanapryde
13-02-2016, 17:04
Many thanks for the reply, it can't hurt I suppose. Pcars is awesome even if it does get bad feedback at times (me included). I'm just trying to get my rig to work first before selling it for a different one.As it seems, some powered USB hubs work, some don't. But n the category of now powered USB hubs, the same applies.
I had a Conrad externally powered USB3 (4 ports) installed to my PS4 and as long it was not really close to the PS4 it worked perfect without issues. Too close to the PS4 (like I had it installed on the PS3) there was interference which caused my wireless Sony Pulse headset (BT dongle) to work intermittent and sometimes even to stop working.

GrimeyDog
15-02-2016, 06:28
Grimey, I have the v2 pedals and the only way I was able to get it to work was by hooking the pedals via USB to ps4. I was having the same problem as you trying to map it when I had the pedals hooked to the wheel. Being that the ps4 only has two USB connections and I have my wheel and button box connected to both, I bought a powered USB hub. I remember reading in the past that people were having a problem using a hub but Sony must have fixed that in one of the updates. I've been playing for hours at a time and no issues. Though I did notice it works better with wheel and button box to hub and pedals to console. Could of been a one time freak issue but everything is working fine.

I noticed that my hand brake give irratic readings when connected to the PC through the wheel and when pedals are plugged directly into usb on PC... does this happen with you also??? when i first plug pedals in and pull hand brake it will read 100% but then it will read next pull 85, 90, 95, but never 100% im wondering if this is a hardware or firmware issue??? hand brake does not seem that its calibrating right.

Linx
15-02-2016, 07:34
I noticed that my hand brake give irratic readings when connected to the PC through the wheel and when pedals are plugged directly into usb on PC... does this happen with you also??? when i first plug pedals in and pull hand brake it will read 100% but then it will read next pull 85, 90, 95, but never 100% im wondering if this is a hardware or firmware issue??? hand brake does not seem that its calibrating right.
Yes when I first got the handbrake and hooked it to pedals/wheel I noticed the same thing in the Fanatec software. I haven't tried it with pedals plugged to USB. But if you're using it for drifting it doesn't affect it in any negative way cuz drifting usually involves one or two quick pulls. I started using the GT86 and it seemed as if I wasn't getting a good lock when using the handbrake and was concerned it wasn't working well. So I mapped the handbrake to the O button and got the same amount of braking. So this told me its not my handbrake but the car. I then tried it with the Rocket Bunny FR-S and got plenty of lock to where the car whipped around too fast. But I think this is intended as each car varies.

GrimeyDog
15-02-2016, 07:45
Thanx for the info and Help... Im Not Big on Drifting... I just got the CSS SQ shifter and thought i Might as well go the Full route and get the Hand brake also ... that way i can Make the Mounting Brackets and mount everything up 1 time... Hopefully i can give the HB a Good go when Sabastian Loeb Ralley comes out Next Month.

Linx
15-02-2016, 08:07
I mounted the handbrake to my Clubsport shifter. I used the little nuts that slide into the grooves/slots of the shifter and mounted the handbrake standing up in rally style instead of street car style. If you don't know what I mean, let me know and I'll post a pic.

BigDad
15-02-2016, 14:16
Thanx for the info and Help... Im Not Big on Drifting... I just got the CSS SQ shifter and thought i Might as well go the Full route and get the Hand brake also ... that way i can Make the Mounting Brackets and mount everything up 1 time... Hopefully i can give the HB a Good go when Sabastian Loeb Ralley comes out Next Month.
SLRE came out already GDog !

GrimeyDog
15-02-2016, 16:34
SLRE came out already GDog !

Not in the States yet... it dont come out until Next Month the 15th!!! Do you have it already??? If so how is it?

GrimeyDog
15-02-2016, 21:53
I mounted the handbrake to my Clubsport shifter. I used the little nuts that slide into the grooves/slots of the shifter and mounted the handbrake standing up in rally style instead of street car style. If you don't know what I mean, let me know and I'll post a pic.

Rally style!!! the only way to mount it;).... I didn't think of connecting it to the shifter...i mounted both from the bottom with about 30min of wood work... cut, sand , drill and paint.

vallist
16-02-2016, 20:49
After patch 9 FFB loss is still there!!! Wheel on/off causes game freeze.

BigDad
17-02-2016, 11:54
Make sure to stop the car then pause the game before turning the wheel off / on .
No more freezing and ffb comes back .
Also with the weird vibrating ffb press pause and entre pits then return to track . That should fix that .
If you needed to know .

Stephen1300
18-02-2016, 02:22
Just want to thank GrimeyDog for the FFB tuning, to me these settings are simple to use and very efficient. I just got my new ClubSport Steering Wheel Formula Carbon today, what a rush I got from this with the Formula Renault. Wow, what a feeling ! With the Porsche wheel I already have this is the perfect combo, I am thinking of getting the pedals but am hesitant with what I read. Anyway, thanks also to all involved that put a lot of work into things I cannot start to comprehend but that I love using.

Sum Dixon-Ear
18-02-2016, 22:25
FAO Mascot -

227815227818227817227819227816

GrimeyDog
19-02-2016, 00:50
Just want to thank GrimeyDog for the FFB tuning, to me these settings are simple to use and very efficient. I just got my new ClubSport Steering Wheel Formula Carbon today, what a rush I got from this with the Formula Renault. Wow, what a feeling ! With the Porsche wheel I already have this is the perfect combo, I am thinking of getting the pedals but am hesitant with what I read. Anyway, thanks also to all involved that put a lot of work into things I cannot start to comprehend but that I love using.

Thanx...im Glad you like them...Follow the link in My signature... There are New Settings posted on the first Thread page... I Reworked the Globals... Feels even better with 9.0.

Mascot
19-02-2016, 05:37
FAO Mascot -


Thanks very much for these CSR Elite settings buddy - I tried some CSW ones and they did not translate well to the CSRE. Wish I'd left everything well alone. I was more than happy with them but got paranoid that they could be better somehow.

PM me your address - I've got some little goodies you might like (nothing to get too excited about, mind... ;))

Mascot
19-02-2016, 07:31
Minor update to the Formula rim (because I was bored, and I love faffing around with stuff like this :)): some buttons de-blinged and labelled for Lights, Wipers, KERS, DRS, Reset & Enter. Got some other labels to add in line with HUD one. This was a bit of a test to see how they looked and if they could be read in low light conditions.

227839

Sum Dixon-Ear
19-02-2016, 10:28
Thanks very much for these CSR Elite settings buddy - I tried some CSW ones and they did not translate well to the CSRE. Wish I'd left everything well alone. I was more than happy with them but got paranoid that they could be better somehow.

PM me your address - I've got some little goodies you might like (nothing to get too excited about, mind... ;))

227845

Mascot
19-02-2016, 10:31
227845

Is that from Yewtree.com's Most Wanted page..?

Sum Dixon-Ear
19-02-2016, 11:17
Is that from Yewtree.com's Most Wanted page..?

As an aside Mascot, it's good to see that the left joystick on our Formula rims now appears to be perfectly functional again... yay!

Thanks SMS.

Mascot
19-02-2016, 11:22
As an aside Mascot, it's good to see that the left joystick on our Formula rims now appears to be perfectly functional again... yay!

Thanks SMS.

Yes indeedy - very useful indeed. Got brake bias on the left & right and something I can't remember on the up & down. I need new labels!

Sum Dixon-Ear
19-02-2016, 11:44
I need new labels!

Snap... be careful though... with great button functionality comes great responsibility. :D

Mascot
20-02-2016, 07:55
FAO Mascot -

227815227818227817227819227816

I can highly recommend these settings for anyone with a PS4-CSRE combo. Each tyre nags me like a Geordie fish wife now. Loving it - thanks again matey! :)

Swanny
22-02-2016, 11:20
OK, last attempt before I either give up my setup or just not bother with Pcars any more.
I have just tested my csr wheel on my old xbox 360 and a mates ps3. Both work flawlessly with forza 4 and gt6 respectively. On the ps4 I have bought a powered usb hub, 2 different grades of new A to B usb cables with the more expensive one doing a really crappy job. The first usb cable lasted for a few hours, but the second one lasting a few minutes. I keep getting freezing issues and /or disconnected. The only other thing left, which was suggested, is to earth my rig. I have a CSR wheel, CSR ELITE pedals and SQ Shifter all neatly bundled to a wheel stand pro.
Q1 how would I earth/ground the rig?
Q2 if I sold the wheel, can I still use the pedals and shifter with a t300rs?
Q3 or is it get rid of all and start again with products designed specifically for the ps4? Which will take a while to save money for.
Frustration meter and anger levels are through the roof. Any more advice or information about sorting this will be much appreciated.

Sankyo
22-02-2016, 11:57
OK, last attempt before I either give up my setup or just not bother with Pcars any more.
I have just tested my csr wheel on my old xbox 360 and a mates ps3. Both work flawlessly with forza 4 and gt6 respectively. On the ps4 I have bought a powered usb hub, 2 different grades of new A to B usb cables with the more expensive one doing a really crappy job. The first usb cable lasted for a few hours, but the second one lasting a few minutes. I keep getting freezing issues and /or disconnected. The only other thing left, which was suggested, is to earth my rig. I have a CSR wheel, CSR ELITE pedals and SQ Shifter all neatly bundled to a wheel stand pro.
Q1 how would I earth/ground the rig?
Q2 if I sold the wheel, can I still use the pedals and shifter with a t300rs?
Q3 or is it get rid of all and start again with products designed specifically for the ps4? Which will take a while to save money for.
Frustration meter and anger levels are through the roof. Any more advice or information about sorting this will be much appreciated.
In what kind of seat are you sitting when racing? Do you have carpet on the floor? If it's a grounding issue, you'll probably gain more by grounding the seat you're sitting in.

Swanny
22-02-2016, 12:56
It's just a wheel stand pro up against a lounge chair. Ain't got room for a racing chair setup.:(

Sankyo
22-02-2016, 13:00
It's just a wheel stand pro up against a lounge chair. Ain't got room for a racing chair setup.:(
You could try grounding the wheelstand with a simple speaker wire to a nearby radiator.

Also make sure that the USB connection cable is not lying close to or on a power cable. And check how well the the USB cable is connected to the wheel, i.e. if slightly wobbling the cable/connector already induces a wheel disconnect.

dannydizzal
24-02-2016, 11:10
FAO Mascot -

227815227818227817227819227816

Would this work with GT2?

BigDad
24-02-2016, 12:10
Would this work with GT2?
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used&p=1237243#post1237243
I've been searching since release for good settings for my Fanatec 911 GT2 wheel and finally found them .
Seriously the best IMHO .
Hope this helps you .
Post # 1658

dannydizzal
24-02-2016, 13:34
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used&p=1237243#post1237243
I've been searching since release for good settings for my Fanatec 911 GT2 wheel and finally found them .
Seriously the best IMHO .
Hope this helps you .
Post # 1658

Cheers for that, are those settings all on the wheel or in the game? (Thicko)

BigDad
24-02-2016, 14:01
On wheel i have sen (i think its called ) 900 ,ffb 60 and dri 3 abs 85 , sho 35 , everything else 0 or off .
The settings in my post are for in game .
If your still having problems add me on psn and i'll run through it in a party chat , so much easier in person .
BigDaddy777015 .

dannydizzal
24-02-2016, 19:25
On wheel i have sen (i think its called ) 900 ,ffb 60 and dri 3 abs 85 , sho 35 , everything else 0 or off .
The settings in my post are for in game .
If your still having problems add me on psn and i'll run through it in a party chat , so much easier in person .
BigDaddy777015 .

Added mines Run-D-M-SMi , lost the Usb dongle for my headset , can you send a screenshot to me on PS? theres many settings not listed in that post?

BigDad
25-02-2016, 03:22
Will do !
Yeah there's heaps to do . Those that i posted are called globals in the calibration page . Then there's incar stuff .
Once you know were everything is /goes it's easier to understand.
At first it's hard to understand why they put things were they did (three separate pages) but it does make sense.

BigDad
25-02-2016, 03:33
As for a headset just grab a phone headset or the one yhat came with the ps4 and plug it in the ps4 controller (DS4).

BigDad
25-02-2016, 03:38
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used/page178
Post #1772 covers just about everything but just lower the one's that i lowered like steering gain and raise the deadzone one and per wheel movement leave on 0.00 . My adaption is for the lower end Fanatec wheels Haidens are for the top line one .

dannydizzal
25-02-2016, 08:35
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used/page178
Post #1772 covers just about everything but just lower the one's that i lowered like steering gain and raise the deadzone one and per wheel movement leave on 0.00 . My adaption is for the lower end Fanatec wheels Haidens are for the top line one .

I found my USB dongle after a good search, i had a little go with those settings and it goes feel good, but i have been running with a stronger feed back so will take some getting used to.

Schumi01
27-02-2016, 02:18
It sounds like you're struggling to apply enough pressure to achieve maximum braking force, I would turn the dial fully clockwise to the position of least resistance to start with. Check your telemetry to see that you're getting full braking with the desired pressure, if not you can add brake force in the car setup menu to help as well.

I think you can plug the Elites either into the wheel or directly to the console's USB ports (don't use both connections at once though). I know that on ClubSport pedals there is a higher resolution via direct USB connection, not sure about the Elites, sorry.

Load cells do need a fair bit of practice with to get used to using pressure instead of travel, good luck.

Amen! Man o man what a struggle. Getting back on pace after 2 weeks but I'm still very nervous with other guys around me.. Is it me or is it true that I'm getting different behavior in the braking zone compared to normal pedals? I have to be very cautious when a guy is in front of me because I'm afraid of bumping into his back-end. I also have to brake a bit earlier, but I can brake more smoothly to the end of the braking point. In TT no problemo(got a 5th time in the GT class today). But in MP I'm bumping into other guys...

I have my load cell on 6 and i'm still playing with the brake pressures. Although I'm starting to like 100%... The brake sensitivity was on 0 but I've found your (wheel)settings and yours was on 50. Going to try that tomorrow. Think I'm also going to try your wheel settings. Is the csr-e wheel way different than the csr wheel? And what car ffb settings do you use with them?(not sure if they were in your post when typing this)

Thanks

Sum Dixon-Ear
27-02-2016, 11:39
The braking behaviour should be identical to non-load cell pedals etc, other that using pressure vs travel to gauge percentage. I would check the telemetry readings or pedal outputs via the Fanatec drivers to see if the signal is 100% smooth and linear.

There are a few ways to adjust the brake behaviour - pressure applied to the brake during in game control calibration will determine the overall travel/pressure relative to load cell resistance dial settings - deadzone/sensitivity for each calibrated input and lastly, the in car master cylinder size. It can be a fine line between the three to achieve optimum brake performance, but for me, I calibrate the brake on minimum dial resistance and maximum desired foot pressure, then adjust over all sensitivity and finally individual cars' master cylinders from there. I usually add in a deadzone of 1-2% to eliminate brake drag, which can happen by just resting your foot on the pedal.

The CSR-E is a very different beast to the CSR/Porsche Fanatecs, I can run much higher FFB settings due to the Elite drawing 120w power vs the CSR's 60w. I have a few friends who run Porsche wheels and we all tend to use 33% FFB and 1.00 Gain but vary greatly on Masters and Tyre Force. I'll ask them what settings they are using, but there are quite a few guys on here that run Fanatec Turbo S/GT2/GT3/CSR wheels and the settings for all are interchangeable as, apart from the rims, the wheels are identical.

BigDad
27-02-2016, 15:04
Hook us up Bro. The more people share their settings the better . I drive a Fanatec 911 GT2 wheel and will alalways try anothers settings .
Cheers .

dannydizzal
02-03-2016, 15:23
Hook us up Bro. The more people share their settings the better . I drive a Fanatec 911 GT2 wheel and will alalways try anothers settings .
Cheers .

x2 for this

Sum Dixon-Ear
06-03-2016, 14:37
FAO Mascot - uPVC insert on right is standard, first gen, with sharp edges... one on left has nice rounded, chamfered edges to reduce drag/'sticktion'. Try standard and thin inserts (both rounded off) to see which you prefer the feel of -

229319

Sum Dixon-Ear
06-03-2016, 14:48
And for reference... reduced diameter insert on left, revised standard on right and shorter (24mm) brake bar piston below left (in kit cut-out) -

229320

Sum Dixon-Ear
06-03-2016, 21:46
Gawd's sake Mascot, do some maintenance on your PM folder... a lady should keep a neat, well maintained 'inbox' at all times!

A yolky gusset can be forgiven... but a stuffed, unkempt box... deary me.

Mascot
10-03-2016, 21:08
Had a brain fart tonight (for CSR Elite and CSW owners):

Take one Tupperware-type lid...

229548

Slice it up with a dagger...

229549

Count your fingers then drill a couple of 6mm holes 100mm apart and slot the bottoms...

229550

Loosen these two bolts...

229551

Slide the mofo in and tighten the bolts back up...

229552

Apply some sticky-back Velcro...

229553

et Voila!

229554

229558

Sum Dixon-Ear
10-03-2016, 21:35
Cool idea... bet you 10p you'll have it moved to the rear of the chassis soon... couple of wee self-tappers through the plastic case... hmmm?

Labelling the actual buttons eh? Me too, thanks for the symbol prints mate... very useful.

229563

Mascot
10-03-2016, 22:13
Cool idea... bet you 10p you'll have it moved to the rear of the chassis soon... couple of wee self-tappers through the plastic case... hmmm?


Nah mate, I'm drilling my CSRE for no man. The TupperDash2000™ puts the phone in a perfect position and angle, and it feels a lot better having the shift indicator just above the wheel rather than just above the telly. This was just a rough-and-ready hack job before the football to see if it worked. I'll get a proper one profiled from sheet steel at some point.

Sum Dixon-Ear
10-03-2016, 22:15
My solution for the phone mount was to run a gooseneck up the back of my stand with tie-wraps, might work fine with your one... still using the Playseat? Added a Sumvision 4-port smart charger which keeps phone and tablet powered as well as the cabling short, tidy and easy to access.

Wee tip bud, look at putting bolts in the 4 unused mounting holes on the Elite's fascia, dust gets sucked in through them and tends to settle right on the codewheel... not good. I'm going to mask all the gaps at the front (belt tensioners being a culprit) as there's no filter there, unlike the left chassis casing inlet.

229572

Mascot
10-03-2016, 22:18
Good tips - cheers pal.

Sankyo
11-03-2016, 08:13
Had a brain fart tonight (for CSR Elite and CSW owners):

Take one Tupperware-type lid...

229548

Slice it up with a dagger...

229549

Count your fingers then drill a couple of 6mm holes 100mm apart and slot the bottoms...

229550

Loosen these two bolts...

229551

Slide the mofo in and tighten the bolts back up...

229552

Apply some sticky-back Velcro...

229553

et Voila!

229554

229558
Lovely brain fart, 10/10.

Hope the smell didn't last long, though :p

Geeman01
25-03-2016, 04:40
Has anyone gotten the cs handbrake to work with this game? I have the 911 wheel turbo s with the csp v2.

Linx
25-03-2016, 05:42
I haven't tried it with the new update yet but it does work if you connect pedals via USB to PS4/PC instead of to the wheel

Geeman01
27-03-2016, 00:04
Yeah i have the new version 10 update and i still had to plug the pedals into the ps4 separately in order for the handbrake to work. I hope they address this as the ps4 doesnt have many usb ports lol

Linx
27-03-2016, 02:06
You know, I installed the update last night and my pedals are plugged to the ps4. But now the handbrake doesn't work even though I can map it in the controls menu. So it does recognize it but it doesn't work while driving cars that I've used the handbrake in before the update.

Ekay.jay
30-03-2016, 15:18
You know, I installed the update last night and my pedals are plugged to the ps4. But now the handbrake doesn't work even though I can map it in the controls menu. So it does recognize it but it doesn't work while driving cars that I've used the handbrake in before the update.

From my understanding some cars in the game do not have a handbrake. I would try other cars to see if it works. I am about to place my order for a fanatec setup and would like to know also if anyone has got the handbrake to work.

Linx
30-03-2016, 16:19
From my understanding some cars in the game do not have a handbrake. I would try other cars to see if it works. I am about to place my order for a fanatec setup and would like to know also if anyone has got the handbrake to work.
I was trying it with a car I've used before for drifting. But anyways I think I know what the problem is. Seems like the handbrake has some issues. I think the wire is going bad as I've heard they do a few times before. Basically it wasn't giving a good connection and the handbrake wasn't doing anything. After playing with the wire a little, it's nownow working in reverse order. When not pulled the brake is engaged somewhere around 60%-70%, when pulled then it's disengaged. I haven't had time to connect it to my computer and ran the Fanatec software yet. Not sure if this problem is due to the wire or changing the position of the handle and maybe I have something touching.

pavano
09-04-2016, 12:16
Apply some sticky-back Velcro...


how exactly did you fasten the phone onto the velcro? any special casing?

pavano
09-04-2016, 12:27
I'm getting a CSW v1 base today, so I was looking for some FFB settings.
Unfortunately, I can't find anything for the v1. And the in-thread search function does not allow such "common" search terms.
Any help would be appreciated.
Will use it with the Formula rim.

maxieking
07-05-2016, 23:41
Hi guys,

I'm a complete newbie on project cars and racing wheels in general.
I got a csr wheel with pedals from my uncle who used it on his Xbox 360 for forza.
Now i want to know wether it will actually work with my ps4 and project cars?
There's so much information in here, i can't understand it all.
i hope somebody can give me a clear answer.

Thanks

Fanapryde
08-05-2016, 04:15
Hi guys,

I'm a complete newbie on project cars and racing wheels in general.
I got a csr wheel with pedals from my uncle who used it on his Xbox 360 for forza.
Now i want to know wether it will actually work with my ps4 and project cars?
There's so much information in here, i can't understand it all.
i hope somebody can give me a clear answer.

Thanks
Well, if you try, you will know, but yes it should work.
Just be sure to have the latest Fanatec firmware (you need a PC for that).
Also: you will need to calibrate in the game menu (wheel and pedals) to get them recognized and working.
Related: you might want to change platform to PS4 since it still says PC. It could be confusing.

maxieking
08-05-2016, 07:47
problem is that i can't just try it. I'll have to trade my xbox one for a ps4 which i'm willing to do, but first i want to know if it will work decently or not?
The firmware update i understand how to do.
But i just got reading up to page 40 from this forum and i believe they say that calibrating the pedals makes that you cant save in game settings? so could i better not calibrate the pedals and play just with the flippers on the wheel?

BigDad
08-05-2016, 08:14
I have a wheel very similar a Fanatec 911 GT2 and it work great as will the CSR wheel , try my settings that ive been working on since release .
Get into it .

flatspunout
10-05-2016, 00:31
Hi guys,

I'm a complete newbie on project cars and racing wheels in general.
I got a csr wheel with pedals from my uncle who used it on his Xbox 360 for forza.
Now i want to know wether it will actually work with my ps4 and project cars?
There's so much information in here, i can't understand it all.
i hope somebody can give me a clear answer.

Thanks

Yes, it will work. I haven't calibrated my pedals in forever but I think those issues were resolved in an early patch.

GrimeyDog
20-05-2016, 21:11
I'm getting a CSW v1 base today, so I was looking for some FFB settings.
Unfortunately, I can't find anything for the v1. And the in-thread search function does not allow such "common" search terms.
Any help would be appreciated.
Will use it with the Formula rim.

Follow the link in My signature My latest PDF is posted there...

Formula A, Super kart and Ford Mustang GT at Donington Park All cars Can Use the same in Car FFB Settings and Each car remains with its own Handling characteristics as you can see in the FFB Graph.

https://youtu.be/JejiwYGLeUY


Lotus T98, Mitsubishi Fvo VI, Ford Focus RS

https://youtu.be/kt-Nf6_s8_8



TF/RAC75 the One FFB To Rule them ALL tweek... test it for you self:yes: Very easy to adjust to suite wheel used and FFB taste... How to tweek Notes included in PDF and you can always post in my thread there is always help.


All settings are shown at end of lap to show cars suspensions are stock and untuned..i set Fuel to 10 laps other than that not even tire PSI is adjusted... just Good FFB!!!

Mascot
23-05-2016, 09:13
how exactly did you fasten the phone onto the velcro? any special casing?

Sorry - just seen this.

Cheap plastic phone case, and stick the velcro to the rear of that.

I've changed it since using two old iPhone 5s, and stuck the velcro directly to the rear of the phones.

pavano
23-05-2016, 09:29
Sorry - just seen this.

Cheap plastic phone case, and stick the velcro to the rear of that.

I've changed it since using two old iPhone 5s, and stuck the velcro directly to the rear of the phones.

Thanks Grimey and Mascot!

Unfortunately, the v1 does not feel "right" with any settings yet...

Mascot
23-05-2016, 10:55
Thanks Grimey and Mascot!


No worries, sorry for the delay in replying. It looks like this now (note: the screws I loosened to fit the slotted plastic plate can safely be completely removed/replaced to go through holes if slotting is a problem):

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk45/massscot/20160316_183721_zpshqcjkj5k.jpg

pavano
23-05-2016, 10:57
a bit dark in order to see it perfectly, but the 2 iphones I can see :)

Thanks again!

GrimeyDog
26-05-2016, 10:33
Thanks Grimey and Mascot!

Unfortunately, the v1 does not feel "right" with any settings yet...

The FFB is Very easy to Configure and Bring out any Feel you Like... You can Even run it with Scoops set to 0.00 and it Feels Great!!! But No Scoops adds weight and Power to the wheel so Reduce the on the wheel FFB if Needed.

The Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz and SoP can be set any way that feels best for you.

If you or any 1 Needs help just post in My thread and I ir some one will help you to get the feel right.

raceniko
24-07-2016, 04:48
Hi guys,

I'm probably the most desperated man on earth right now. Just get the CSW V2 with Formula Wheel and Universal Hub. After two days of assembly, updating firmware and everything... the CSW just don't works with PS4 at Project Cars with any of the two wheels. I'm doing everything (starting Project Cars, and then turning on the wheel) and only the pad is working through the menus...
has anyone experienced this?

Linx
24-07-2016, 05:07
Are you getting anything on the display on the wheel? The Fanatec will only work in game and not on the PS4 home screen. Also, when you loaded Pcars and you get to the screen where it tells you to press "X" to start the game, do that with the wheel and not the controller

Roger Prynne
24-07-2016, 07:54
Are you not supposed to turn on the wheel and then start pCARS?

Fanapryde
24-07-2016, 07:55
Are you not supposed to turn on the wheel and then start pCARS?
IIRC that's what I did when I was on console.

pavano
24-07-2016, 11:52
when PCars starts up, when the start screen shows up (the one, where you have to press the X key), you HAVE to press it on the wheel!
Otherwise the wheel won't be recognized.

HTH

Python-Five
09-01-2017, 20:40
I bought a Fanatec Set (CSW v2 - F1 Rim - CSP v3 - CSS SQ v1.5) and I am a little worried about the firmware updates. I want to use the set on PS4. I am an Apple guy so Mac all over the place but no PC. I have to bring in my brother, who is a PC guy, so he can help me with the firmware updates. I have read the manuals and I understand in theory. Only the Wheel Base and the Pedals need FW-updates. The FW-package on the Fanatec website says v231 or v261. Which one to take? I only have to use a PC to do the FW-update? After that I can calibrate the shifter and the pedals from the Wheel...

Can someone please shed some light on this for me?

Fanapryde
09-01-2017, 21:43
I bought a Fanatec Set (CSW v2 - F1 Rim - CSP v3 - CSS SQ v1.5) and I am a little worried about the firmware updates. I want to use the set on PS4. I am an Apple guy so Mac all over the place but no PC. I have to bring in my brother, who is a PC guy, so he can help me with the firmware updates. I have read the manuals and I understand in theory. Only the Wheel Base and the Pedals need FW-updates. The FW-package on the Fanatec website says v231 or v261. Which one to take? I only have to use a PC to do the FW-update? After that I can calibrate the shifter and the pedals from the Wheel...

Can someone please shed some light on this for me?
Not much light to shed. You described exactly what you need to do. Normally it is best to have the latest firmware installed.
I was on the same boat as you a year ago, all Mac and racing on PS4. I had an old XP laptop lying around which I used to install the firmware on my gear. As I recall the laptop could not handle the firmware updates any more, which was one of the reasons I switched to PC, be it only for sim racing.

Python-Five
09-01-2017, 21:52
Not much light to shed. You described exactly what you need to do. Normally it is best to have the latest firmware installed.
I was on the same boat as you a year ago, all Mac and racing on PS4. I had an old XP laptop lying around which I used to install the firmware on my gear. As I recall the laptop could not handle the firmware updates any more, which was one of the reasons I switched to PC, be it only for sim racing.

Thanks ;-) I bought a gaming PC back in 1998 running Windows98 with Logitech Force Feedback wheel. Now, almost 20 years later I am contemplating a PC again but I can only buy so much. The set is shipping tomorrow so I will keep you updated later.

Sankyo
10-01-2017, 09:53
I bought a Fanatec Set (CSW v2 - F1 Rim - CSP v3 - CSS SQ v1.5) and I am a little worried about the firmware updates. I want to use the set on PS4. I am an Apple guy so Mac all over the place but no PC. I have to bring in my brother, who is a PC guy, so he can help me with the firmware updates. I have read the manuals and I understand in theory. Only the Wheel Base and the Pedals need FW-updates. The FW-package on the Fanatec website says v231 or v261. Which one to take? I only have to use a PC to do the FW-update? After that I can calibrate the shifter and the pedals from the Wheel...

Can someone please shed some light on this for me?
Just take the latest v261 driver and update the wheel base and pedals firmware with it. Be sure to have wheel and pedals connected to the PC and the base switched on when installing the driver. When starting the firmware upgrade for the first time, it will first install a bootloader device driver, after which the firmware update will continue. I have seen occasions where the PC would first require a reboot before the firmware update could be successfully done, so keep that in mind.

Calibrating the wheel center position is easiest to do when the wheel is still connected to the PC, you can then verify visually in the main Fanatec Wheel Properties screen that the wheel center has successfully been reset and also whether all shifter positions have been set OK.

Python-Five
10-01-2017, 10:00
Just take the latest v261 driver and update the wheel base and pedals firmware with it. Be sure to have wheel and pedals connected to the PC and the base switched on when installing the driver. When starting the firmware upgrade for the first time, it will first install a bootloader device driver, after which the firmware update will continue. I have seen occasions where the PC would first require a reboot before the firmware update could be successfully done, so keep that in mind.

Calibrating the wheel center position is easiest to do when the wheel is still connected to the PC, you can then verify visually in the main Fanatec Wheel Properties screen that the wheel center has successfully been reset and also whether all shifter positions have been set OK.

So you have to connect the Base AND the Pedals via USB to the PC? At the same time? The Base has a powersupply but the Pedals get their power from the Base. Or do you connect the Base via USB to the PC and the Pedals via RJ12 to the Base? To see if the shifter positions are OK, you also have to connect the Shifter to the Base?

Ah... Wait... Connect both the Base AND the Pedals to the PC via USB (so both in their own USB port). The PC Driver lets you choose which device you want to update. After everything is updated to the latest FW, you can connect the shifter to the base and test its function? The Base is still connected to the PC at that time. When everything checks out, you can set up your rig...?

Sankyo
10-01-2017, 11:11
So you have to connect the Base AND the Pedals via USB to the PC? At the same time? The Base has a powersupply but the Pedals get their power from the Base. Or do you connect the Base via USB to the PC and the Pedals via RJ12 to the Base? To see if the shifter positions are OK, you also have to connect the Shifter to the Base?

Ah... Wait... Connect both the Base AND the Pedals to the PC via USB (so both in their own USB port). The PC Driver lets you choose which device you want to update. After everything is updated to the latest FW, you can connect the shifter to the base and test its function? The Base is still connected to the PC at that time. When everything checks out, you can set up your rig...?
The last part is correct. NEVER connect the CSP to USB and to the base at the same time, you can damage the electronics of the pedals with that.

You can have the shifter connected to the base when you update the base firmware, or you can connect it afterwards. In either case, you'll have to re-calibrate the shifter after the firmware update. It's easiest to do this with the base still connected to the PC so you can verify if it's all working as intended after the calibration.

Fanapryde
10-01-2017, 18:00
[QUOTE=Python-Five;1318987]I bought a Fanatec Set (CSW v2 - F1 Rim - CSP v3 - CSS SQ v1.5) and I am a little worried about the firmware updates. I want to use the set on PS4.

Correct me if I am wrong but Sony does not support Fanatec wheels.
Officially, no.
But they work.

Python-Five
11-01-2017, 12:00
Fanatec set in da house ;-) But that is it for the moment ;-( It is still boxed. I need a PC to install firmware (MAC guy here) and my brother agreed to help me but he has... the flu. D*mn...

Python-Five
11-01-2017, 12:07
[QUOTE=Python-Five;1318987]I bought a Fanatec Set (CSW v2 - F1 Rim - CSP v3 - CSS SQ v1.5) and I am a little worried about the firmware updates. I want to use the set on PS4.

Correct me if I am wrong but Sony does not support Fanatec wheels.

Fanapryde provided the short answer. Mine is more detailed ;-)

Sony does not support Fanatec. Fanatec wheels do not have a PS button like the Logitech G29 has. You therefore cannot start your PS4 with the Wheel. Now... Project Cars supports the Fanatec stuff so you have to start the PS4, use the controller to navigate and to start Project Cars with. When Project Cars asks you to press "X" to start, use the "X" button on the Wheel. Because it has a "X" button ;-) the wheel is now recognised by Project Cars... I think to leave the game you have to press "PS" on the controller again and take it from there, using the controller.

Python-Five
13-01-2017, 14:45
I got the set and mounted it on my Rseat RS1. Wow... Still waiting for a PC guy to update the firmware but it looks and feels amazing, just sitting in the RS1 rig. I went ahead and ordered the 918 wheel since you only live once so why hold back (if you can afford it).

Python-Five
15-01-2017, 15:39
Trying to get the drivers installed but the base just won't turn on. It is plugged into mains, usb to PC with Windows 10 but no life in the CSW base yet. Any help?

Fanapryde
15-01-2017, 16:00
Trying to get the drivers installed but the base just won't turn on. It is plugged into mains, usb to PC with Windows 10 but no life in the CSW base yet. Any help?
Is the pilot light on the power brick on ?

Python-Five
15-01-2017, 16:04
Yes. There is also power on the lead. Just tested with multimeter. Pedals are updated within seconds. Base is dead.

Python-Five
15-01-2017, 16:23
Does the F1 rim have to be attached to the base for it to power on?

Sankyo
15-01-2017, 16:36
Does the F1 rim have to be attached to the base for it to power on?

No, not required.

Fanapryde
15-01-2017, 17:45
Yes. There is also power on the lead. Just tested with multimeter. Pedals are updated within seconds. Base is dead.
You probably did, but make sure the plug is secure in the base. I know it sounds stupid, but also that happened once to me on my previous rig. Due to some shaking the plug came halfway loose and lost all contact. Took me a while to find the issue...:o
If that is checked, I have no more answers...

Python-Five
15-01-2017, 18:38
You probably did, but make sure the plug is secure in the base. I know it sounds stupid, but also that happened once to me on my previous rig. Due to some shaking the plug came halfway loose and lost all contact. Took me a while to find the issue...:o
If that is checked, I have no more answers...

Yes, I checked that also. I think it is a case of Fanatec Club Support first thing tomorrow morning... ;-( Nevertheless, it is a bit disappointing (and that is an understatement ;-)

Python-Five
15-01-2017, 19:44
Is it also correct that the PC will not recognise the wheelbase when the base is off?

Fanapryde
15-01-2017, 20:14
Is it also correct that the PC will not recognise the wheelbase when the base is off?I suppose so. Not on my system right now, can check later if nobody answers before.
But I am pretty sure. Turning on the wheel base produces a PING noise in Windows. Turning off too.

Fanapryde
15-01-2017, 21:22
Is it also correct that the PC will not recognise the wheelbase when the base is off?
The base has to be turned ON for the PC to recognize it. I was pretty sure but just checked anyway.
With the base OFF, no program can spot it.

Python-Five
15-01-2017, 22:07
Ok... So I never did anything wrong. The base never turned on. Not even once. Guess who gets a call tomorrow?

Thanks Guys for your help...

Fanapryde
15-01-2017, 22:30
Ok... So I never did anything wrong. The base never turned on. Not even once. Guess who gets a call tomorrow?

Thanks Guys for your help...Be prepared, they will probably (surely) for a video...:D

Python-Five
16-01-2017, 01:31
Be prepared, they will probably (surely) for a video...:D

Yes, I already made one :-)

MXMike273
16-01-2017, 10:32
Can anyone help me. I was playing Pcars last night and during an online race the wheel went crazy putting the wipers and lights on, changing brake bias, looking to each side of the cockpit and disconnecting altogether for a few seconds. Someone in the lobby said that maybe the contacts need cleaning as his T300 does this and it stops after a clean. Is he right? any help on this would be great thank you

Sankyo
16-01-2017, 10:48
Can anyone help me. I was playing Pcars last night and during an online race the wheel went crazy putting the wipers and lights on, changing brake bias, looking to each side of the cockpit and disconnecting altogether for a few seconds. Someone in the lobby said that maybe the contacts need cleaning as his T300 does this and it stops after a clean. Is he right? any help on this would be great thank you
What wheel do you have?
First thing to do would be to connect it to a PC with the Fanatec driver installed and test the wheel for proper button responses.

MXMike273
16-01-2017, 11:13
What wheel do you have?
First thing to do would be to connect it to a PC with the Fanatec driver installed and test the wheel for proper button responses.
Its the CSW V2 with BMW rim

Python-Five
16-01-2017, 18:14
Be prepared, they will probably (surely) for a video...:D

Supportchat was quick. Discussed options and the base will return to Germany for repair. Powersupply or PCB fault. Keep you informed about the progress and the endresult.

Python-Five
18-01-2017, 10:40
I haven't done any racing with my new Fanatec gear but I am busy as a bee getting the pedals mounted and adjusted to my RS1. The thing is; when you apply pressure to the brake, the mountingplate flexes down. Enough to make me worrie. Anyone else have this experience? I am putting some MDF together to make a support for the plate, so it does not flex.

Sankyo
18-01-2017, 10:53
I haven't done any racing with my new Fanatec gear but I am busy as a bee getting the pedals mounted and adjusted to my RS1. The thing is; when you apply pressure to the brake, the mountingplate flexes down. Enough to make me worrie. Anyone else have this experience? I am putting some MDF together to make a support for the plate, so it does not flex.

I have the same with with my PlaySeat. TBH it doesn't bother me nor does it seem to influence my driving, but I haven't tried it yet with a support structure underneath (sounds like a good idea to try).

Python-Five
18-01-2017, 11:30
I have the same with with my PlaySeat. TBH it doesn't bother me nor does it seem to influence my driving, but I haven't tried it yet with a support structure underneath (sounds like a good idea to try).

I will let you know what I did and wheather or not it works...

Figuur84
18-01-2017, 11:35
I haven't done any racing with my new Fanatec gear but I am busy as a bee getting the pedals mounted and adjusted to my RS1. The thing is; when you apply pressure to the brake, the mountingplate flexes down. Enough to make me worrie. Anyone else have this experience? I am putting some MDF together to make a support for the plate, so it does not flex.

I have not noticed this problem (yet). Do you use the brake performance kit? I have it, but not yet installed. I only have the damper kit on it right now.

Python-Five
18-01-2017, 12:03
I have not noticed this problem (yet). Do you use the brake performance kit? I have it, but not yet installed. I only have the damper kit on it right now.

I have the damper on the brake pedal. But since my base was DOA and is on its way to Germany to be repaired, I do not know what force it takes to brake... The loadcell takes 95 Kg which is a lot...

Sankyo
18-01-2017, 12:06
I have the damper on the brake pedal. But since my base was DOA and is on its way to Germany to be repaired, I do not know what force it takes to brake... The loadcell takes 95 Kg which is a lot...

Older seats/cockpits were designed before load cell brake pedals became mainstream, so they never were designed for the forces put on the pedals with such load cell set-ups.

Mascot
18-01-2017, 12:13
Older seats/cockpits were designed before load cell brake pedals became mainstream, so they never were designed for the forces put on the pedals with such load cell set-ups.

My old-ish Playseat frame has a very solid pedal base. The CSPs are rock solid, even while performing a full leg-press on them at Monza's Variante del Rettifilo.

Python-Five
18-01-2017, 13:47
I have the same with with my PlaySeat. TBH it doesn't bother me nor does it seem to influence my driving, but I haven't tried it yet with a support structure underneath (sounds like a good idea to try).

This is what it looks like and it works.

236751236752

And also important: Vacuumclean after you're done ;-) There's 'dust in the wind' ;-)

GrimeyDog
18-01-2017, 15:50
I haven't done any racing with my new Fanatec gear but I am busy as a bee getting the pedals mounted and adjusted to my RS1. The thing is; when you apply pressure to the brake, the mountingplate flexes down. Enough to make me worrie. Anyone else have this experience? I am putting some MDF together to make a support for the plate, so it does not flex.

Dumb Question Do you have the Shifter Connected to te wheel??? have you Checked to nake sure its plugged into the Correct port and make sure you are using the Shifter wire that came with the Shifter...Very important!!! I Neesed a longer wire so used a RJ cable that i had and it stopped My wheel from powering on.

I ended up buying the wire plug ends and phone jack Crimper and Made my own Wire about 12ft long.... works just fine once i made the custom wire... i did this for the pedals also.... its Very easy to do.

Python-Five
18-01-2017, 18:58
Dumb Question

Are you stating a fact? :confused: It is a confusing question since you are quoting the pedal-plate-flex issue and not my original Base problem post. But this is what I did:
I connected the base to the shifter, using the wire that came with it. I also connected the power to the base and the USB-cable that came with the base to the PC. Then I pressed 'start' on the base and..... Nothing happend.

Now... If using the wrong RJ12 wire from the shifter results in blowing up your base... that is not clever engineering. That is plain stupid. Mistakes are easilly made. I assume your base powered on as soon as you used the correct wire? And it would also come in handy if you specified how you made the wire? RJ12 uses six wires, for data usually 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4, 5-5 and 6-6.

The pinout for the shifter is CUSTOM 5 wires:
1-white
2-------
3-green
4-black
5-red
6-yellow

The pinout for the pedals is STANDARD:
1-white
2-black
3-red
4-green
5-yellow
6-blue

Seen from the bottom, left to right.

GrimeyDog
19-01-2017, 00:22
Exactly...For Me When i used the wrong wire the Base would Not power on...When i plugged in the Correct wire the Base worked Normal.

Very simple ro Make the Wire all You Need is Rj12 wire & The Wire End Clips that plugs into the Base... those can be found at Radio Shack or on the internet... also you Need the Crimping tool to lock the wire ends in place...

Yes for the shifter i simply Cut the end that was Not used on both ends and hooked the rest of the wires up so they match on each end when i put plug end clip on.

You already have the wire Pattern/color code so its simple... Even if the wire you buy has diff color wires just make sure you match up the Wire Pattern and Color to the same plug position at the oposite end of the wire.... Really Easy to do... You dont even strip the wire ends just plug them in the wire ends and Crimp them in Place.

I made all My wires Custom 12 feet Shifter and Pedals works Great...Took 20min if that long.

Fanapryde
19-01-2017, 01:32
I have the damper on the brake pedal. But since my base was DOA and is on its way to Germany to be repaired, I do not know what force it takes to brake... The loadcell takes 95 Kg which is a lot...
The loadcell is supposed to take 95 kg, but I can tell you the V3 pedal (on his strongest settings, with extra damper installed) need alot less than that.
I never had the pedal platform of my previous Simetik K2 move or bend, until I bought the Heusinkveld Pro pedals, which was the main reason to go for the Sim Lab P1 80/20 chassis. On the Simetik, HE Pro brake calibrated at 40 kg, the platfom did bend noticeable. 40 kg is a way higher force than the V3's brake pedal. And IIRC (I did measure the forces once) the V3 brake needed 23 kg to be pushed to max.
A few weeks ago I recalibrated the HE to 50 kg, which feels even better, but on occasion makes the back rest of the Sparco seat produce some cracking noises under heavy load... So I won't calibrate them to their 55kg max settings... :rolleyes:
I don't think a little bend of the platform really hurts performance and you will probably get used to it, but It felt a bit weird to me.

Python-Five
19-01-2017, 08:00
I don't think a little bend of the platform really hurts performance and you will probably get used to it, but It felt a bit weird to me.

I dont think a little bend will hurt but it feels weird for me too. And it makes me want to overtighten the bolts in the platform and that is not a good thing to do. So a MDF support won't hurt and stops the plate from flexing. I may need to make a second one if I change the angle of the plate.

Fanapryde
19-01-2017, 08:19
I dont think a little bend will hurt but it feels weird for me too. And it makes me want to overtighten the bolts in the platform and that is not a good thing to do. So a MDF support won't hurt and stops the plate from flexing. I may need to make a second one if I change the angle of the plate.
Agree.
Nice solution BTW.

Python-Five
24-01-2017, 15:23
I got my base back and got everything working and OH MY GOD... What a feeling... SEN on Auto, the rest default and in PCars everything on default except the deadzones to '0'. I think I have to learn how to drive again because the CSW FF setting of '100' is just to powerfull. Reduced to 50 it gives a smooth sensation of all the forces. Even the rumble motors on the pedals give a nice subtle feedback. It is just AMAZING... Do I sound like a commercial to you?

Anyhow... I have some testing to do ;-)

Mascot
24-01-2017, 15:43
Now I can understand Jack Spade for going back to the default settings in PCars.


u wot m8