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Python-Five
24-01-2017, 14:49
u wot m8

I may have read somewhere that good old Jack is using the default setting in PCars because, and I quote: 'SMS did a fantastic job...'. But I cannot find his post so if my statement causes you to lose sleep, I can remove it for you... ;-)

Mascot
24-01-2017, 15:05
I may have read somewhere that good old Jack is using the default setting in PCars because, and I quote: 'SMS did a fantastic job...'. But I cannot find his post so if my statement causes you to lose sleep, I can remove it for you... ;-)

No sleep lost here, I'm just fascinated by this unlikely turn of events!

;)

Python-Five
24-01-2017, 15:10
No sleep lost here, I'm just fascinated by this unlikely turn of events!

;)

I read it somewhere or so I believe. If this claim is false, I will remove it.

EDIT: I removed it as I cannot find the post to prove my claim. I don't want to start a riot ;-)

Mascot
24-01-2017, 15:14
I read it somewhere or so I believe. If this claim is false, I will remove it.

It's very possibly true. There has been some chatter recently about the defaults not being as bad as people think.

GrimeyDog
24-01-2017, 16:22
I may have read somewhere that good old Jack is using the default setting in PCars because, and I quote: 'SMS did a fantastic job...'. But I cannot find his post so if my statement causes you to lose sleep, I can remove it for you... ;-)

You can Try My Settings on the V2... they feel.Very Close to Stock but with More Detail... I use on wheel FFB @60

Tgey are in a PDF 3/4 down on the First page of My thread.... PC i use No Scoops/ PS4 I use Scoops 68/24

Edit: I see your on PS4 My settings were Made using the V2 on PS4....They just port to PC 1 to 1... Even the Scoop settings can be used on PC also but the wheel feels more linear on PC with No Scoops... PS4 No Scoop takes away feel.

Python-Five
24-01-2017, 18:14
You can Try My Settings on the V2... they feel.Very Close to Stock but with More Detail... I use on wheel FFB @60

Tgey are in a PDF 3/4 down on the First page of My thread.... PC i use No Scoops/ PS4 I use Scoops 68/24

Edit: I see your on PS4 My settings were Made using the V2 on PS4....They just port to PC 1 to 1... Even the Scoop settings can be used on PC also but the wheel feels more linear on PC with No Scoops... PS4 No Scoop takes away feel.

I will. I have used your settings with the G29 as well. I am also on Oscar Olim's site and will keep track of my settings. Comes in very handy... But there is soo much to explore and I only just started. Feels like I am running 1,5 years behind ;-)

Python-Five
24-01-2017, 19:10
I seem to have issues with the L2 and R2 buttons on my F1 rim as well on my 918 RSR rim. On the 918 the R2 doesn't function at all. You have to restart the wheelbase for it to work once and than fail again. On the F1 Rim the L2 and R2 buttons function with irregularities. Double activations. Input when no input is given...

Sankyo
24-01-2017, 19:23
I seem to have issues with the L2 and R2 buttons on my F1 rim as well on my 918 RSR rim. On the 918 the R2 doesn't function at all. You have to restart the wheelbase for it to work once and than fail again. On the F1 Rim the L2 and R2 buttons function with irregularities. Double activations. Input when no input is given...
:( If it's on both rims then it's likely something with the quick release contacts of the base. Could you remove the rim and check if all pins on the base connector are OK? Do the rims have any kind of mechanical play when attached to the base? Do you use the fixation screw for the rims?

Python-Five
24-01-2017, 19:44
:( If it's on both rims then it's likely something with the quick release contacts of the base. Could you remove the rim and check if all pins on the base connector are OK? Do the rims have any kind of mechanical play when attached to the base? Do you use the fixation screw for the rims?

It is on both rims. Connectors are OK as far as I can see. No movement and I use the fixation screw. I also noticed that the fans are not moving on my base. Not even when I turn it on.

Sankyo
24-01-2017, 19:46
It is on both rims. Connectors are OK as far as I can see. No movement and I use the fixation screw. I also noticed that the fans are not moving on my base. Not even when I turn it on.
:(:( Time to contact Fanatec Support again I'm afraid, because this doesn't sound good. They should at least hear this info, so they can decide if and how they will deal with this.

Python-Five
24-01-2017, 20:01
:(:( Time to contact Fanatec Support again I'm afraid, because this doesn't sound good. They should at least hear this info, so they can decide if and how they will deal with this.

Damn... I have the same behavier on both rims with the L2 and R2 buttons. Going into the control settings just activates the Wheel Calibration (L2) by itself. On both rims. And on both rims I get activation of the Force Feedback Calibration by itself. It is hard to exit those menu's.

When you look at the connector pins inside the quick release ring, one is clearly shorter than the rest. On both rims it is the same pin. Is that suppose to be like that?

The first time I start the PS4 with the controller and startup the base when I have to press 'X', both buttons function. So I am able to calibrate the wheel, the pedals and the Force Feedback. Than do a race but if I want to make adjustments to the Force feedback, the buttons (L2 and R2) start acting up...

GrimeyDog
25-01-2017, 02:01
I seem to have issues with the L2 and R2 buttons on my F1 rim as well on my 918 RSR rim. On the 918 the R2 doesn't function at all. You have to restart the wheelbase for it to work once and than fail again. On the F1 Rim the L2 and R2 buttons function with irregularities. Double activations. Input when no input is given...


Here is a PS4 Button Map i made for the Porsche and F1 rims... The Button Map is Current with the New FW... Button Mappings have Not Changed in a Bit... Hope this Helps

you should Check the allen Screws in the Hub part of the "Rim"... I know the Middle Screw works its self Loose after a while... This will cause the issues with buttons and even make the base behave irratic and Disconnect while driving... I Fixed this by removing the Screw and Putting Blue Loctight on it about a year ago and the screws have Not wirked their way loose since.
Also Check the Screws on the Hub part of the base to make sure they are tight.
Hope you get it working. Cheers

Edit: Oops i didnt see your post where you said you checked the screws and the Fans arent working....
But in any event i will leave the Button Mapping Pics... Its Good info to have for any 1 that may Need a Visual button Map.

Python-Five
25-01-2017, 06:15
you should Check the allen Screws in the Hub part of the "Rim"... I know the Middle Screw works its self Loose after a while... This will cause the issues with buttons and even make the base behave irratic and Disconnect while driving... I Fixed this by removing the Screw and Putting Blue Loctight on it about a year ago and the screws have Not wirked their way loose since. Also Check the Screws on the Hub part of the base to make sure they are tight.
Hope you get it working. Cheers

I checked the screws inside the base and both rims and tightened them. Problem is solved for now. Both L2 and R2 are working fine now.

As for the fans on the base, I will get back to Fanatec Support about that...

But for now I could virtualy kiss you, GrimeyDog, althoug I am a cat-person ;-)

Python-Five
25-01-2017, 07:11
Special report:
Tightening the middle screw on the rims and the base solved the L2 and R2 problem for now. Also tightened the other screws inside the hub. [praise to GrimeyDog for that]
The fans on the V2 base are very silent as in 'you don't hear anything at all'... but they DO run at startup. Also solved...
One connector pin inside the rim hub is indeed shorther than the others. Also solved...

Fanapryde
25-01-2017, 07:29
Special report:
Tightening the middle screw on the rims and the base solved the L2 and R2 problem for now. Also tightened the other screws inside the hub. [praise to GrimeyDog for that]
The fans on the V2 base are very silent as in 'you don't hear anything at all'... but they DO run at startup. Also solved...
One connector pin inside the rim hub is indeed shorther than the rest. Also solved...
Just read through the latest posts. I have had issues with buttons in the past and they were all provoqued by loose screws. So I check them at a regular base now, not using any help of Loctite.
To be thorough, you need ti check ALL other screws on the wheels too. They also tend to loosen up after a while. Easy to feel when holding your finger on te place where the plastic covers meet the metal of the wheel and put some pressure on the rim, alternating forward and backward. If there is play, tighten the small allen screws on the front plate. When they are loose, they also trigger issues in the end. Took me some time to find that out...:rolleyes:
The fans are really silent, but that may change. I had mine replaced once by Endor (along with the rest of the internals) and they seem to last now. There is just that high pitch noise again, which I had before. It is not present all the time, but when it is, it is really disturbing. I may need to contact Endor again, since it is the same noise I had before and made Endor decide to change then base internals.

Python-Five
25-01-2017, 07:45
I keep it in the holes (ik houd het in de gaten) Fanapryde.

As for my FFB settings: I run default in PCars, except I remove the deadzones on steering and pedals, TF to 75 and FFB to 100. I get good feedback from the road and rumblestrips but I do not have to fight the wheel in corners. I may try different settings in the future but for now this feels good and my laptimes improve. Lets get some experience first...

Fanapryde
25-01-2017, 07:54
I keep it in the holes (ik houd het in de gaten) Fanapryde.
:biggrin-new:

GrimeyDog
25-01-2017, 10:23
Special report:
Tightening the middle screw on the rims and the base solved the L2 and R2 problem for now. Also tightened the other screws inside the hub. [praise to GrimeyDog for that]
The fans on the V2 base are very silent as in 'you don't hear anything at all'... but they DO run at startup. Also solved...
One connector pin inside the rim hub is indeed shorther than the others. Also solved...


The Middle Screw in the Rims will work themselves loose again... i took them out and put a tad bit of Blue Locktight on them so they will Not work themselves loose again... Its been over 1 year and No loose screw issues:yes:... Blue locktight is Not permanent you can remove the screws if you Need to but they wont loosen by themselves anymore.

I did Not Need to put loctight on the Wheel base hub middle screw it stays in place.

Sankyo
25-01-2017, 10:41
So you guys all have a screw loose, right? :p

Python-Five
25-01-2017, 10:45
The Middle Screw in the Rims will work themselves loose again... i took them out and put a tad bit of Blue Locktight on them so they will Not work themselves loose again... Its been over 1 year and No loose screw issues:yes:... Blue locktight is Not permanent you can remove the screws if you Need to but they wont loosen by themselves anymore.

I did Not Need to put loctight on the Wheel base hub middle screw it stays in place.

Let's see what happens. In my opinion, such problems as loose screws messing things up, is a NO GO with gear this expensive. It came new out of the box this way. I only bought the stuff two weeks ago.

Anyhow... I keep the loctiteŽ trick in mind. I used red LoctiteŽ once and I had to hurry getting the screws in on time. It sets that quick and only comes loose with a blowtorch ;-) Purple and Blue are the weakest ones....

Python-Five
25-01-2017, 10:46
So you guys all have a screw loose, right? :p

Is there a DISLIKE button in here somewhere? ;-)

Python-Five
25-01-2017, 10:49
So you guys all have a screw loose, right? :p

You are kinda connected with Fanatec/Endor right? This stuff comes new out of the box. I shoulden't have to tighten any screws to make it work, now do I?

Don't get me wrong, their support chat was very quick and helpful...

Sankyo
25-01-2017, 11:14
You are kinda connected with Fanatec/Endor right? This stuff comes new out of the box. I shoulden't have to tighten any screws to make it work, now do I?

Don't get me wrong, their support chat was very quick and helpful...
I already fed it back to Fanatec Support. These screws should come with some sticky stuff holding them in place, so it's interesting to find out what happened here (though it seems it's not an isolated case).

GrimeyDog
25-01-2017, 11:29
I already fed it back to Fanatec Support. These screws should come with some sticky stuff holding them in place, so it's interesting to find out what happened here (though it seems it's not an isolated case).


Once i figured it out i Never thought to make a issue of it because it was such a easy fix.
Im Sure that the Middle screw in the Rims will keep working its self loose... It worked its self loose in My case sooo Many times i figured to put Blue lock tight on it and its been fine ever since.

Python-Five
25-01-2017, 11:30
I already fed it back to Fanatec Support. These screws should come with some sticky stuff holding them in place, so it's interesting to find out what happened here (though it seems it's not an isolated case).

I did one last quick test (and than I shut up about it): when you pull the rim from the base, it loosens the screw. Put the rim back again and the L2 button stops working. So you have to make sure you tighten that screw before putting the rim on the base. After that the L2 button works just fine. I will see tonight if it stays that way. I have not removed the rim after confirming both L2 and R2 work fine.

Python-Five
25-01-2017, 12:00
The culprit in the middle keeping the connectorpins in place all by his tiny self, while the surrounding plate is held by 4 humongous bolts ;-)

236787

GrimeyDog
25-01-2017, 12:48
[QUOTE=Python-Five;1320638]The culprit in the middle keeping the connectorpins in place all by his tiny self, while the surrounding plate is held by 4 humongous bolts ;-)

The Middle Screw is Long!!! Dont be afraid to turn screw it in More than a Few turns... Rurn it in until you feel it get really Snug... Even then it will take a while but it will wirk its self loose again if you dont take it out and put Blue Loctight on it...I must have retightend that screw a dozen times before i finally put Blue loctight on it... it always seems to work its way loose during a Good Online Race Session... That was the Most frustrating oart of it...LOL!!!

Python-Five
25-01-2017, 12:56
[QUOTE=Python-Five;1320638]The culprit in the middle keeping the connectorpins in place all by his tiny self, while the surrounding plate is held by 4 humongous bolts ;-)

The Middle Screw is Long!!! Dont be afraid to turn screw it in More than a Few turns... Rurn it in until you feel it get really Snug... Even then it will take a while but it will wirk its self loose again if you dont take it out and put Blue Loctight on it...I must have retightend that screw a dozen times before i finally put Blue loctight on it... it always seems to work its way loose during a Good Online Race Session... That was the Most frustrating oart of it...LOL!!!

I have contacted Fanatec Support and I am testing the Rim's and make a video. It is rediculous that this problem even exists.

GrimeyDog
25-01-2017, 13:27
I have contacted Fanatec Support and I am testing the Rim's and make a video. It is rediculous that this problem even exists.

Its really Not a Big Deal though...its Not a Deal Breaker Not for Me at least... Just add a Tad Bit of Loctight to the Middle Screw and problem solved... once i added a tad bit of Blue Loctight the problem Never happend again...Im sure it could be added during production...But you know how things get they add 1 thing and the price goes up $50.00!!!

I have had My Base and Rims since 2014 and sooo far thats the only problem ive had with the Rims and Hub... I did send the base out 1 time in 2015 to have the Fan Circuit board replaced but other than that the Gear has performed Flawlessly:applouse:
Kudos to Fanatec IMO they Really work Hard to support their products.

Ive had more problems with New cars than the wheel Base...LOL

Python-Five
25-01-2017, 21:33
STOP THE PRESS...

I tightened the screws and tested on PS4 and all the buttons work just fine. I then connected the base to a PC laptop to do a functiontest of all the buttons. All buttons were fine on PC. Now back to PS4 and there it started to get spooky. L2 and R2 did not function or randomly function all by themself. Than I remembered a post about strange button behavier and the guy disconnected the pedals from the base. And so I did and.... everything was fine. Connect the pedals to the base: BAD buttons. Disconnect the pedals from the base: GOOD buttons ;-)

Anyone care to explain? Remco perhaps?

Roger Prynne
26-01-2017, 00:34
STOP THE PRESS...

I tightened the screws and tested on PS4 and all the buttons work just fine. I then connected the base to a PC laptop to do a functiontest of all the buttons. All buttons were fine on PC. Now back to PS4 and there it started to get spooky. L2 and R2 did not function or randomly function all by themself. Than I remembered a post about strange button behavier and the guy disconnected the pedals from the base. And so I did and.... everything was fine. Connect the pedals to the base: BAD buttons. Disconnect the pedals from the base: GOOD buttons ;-)

Anyone care to explain? Remco perhaps?

You haven't got the 'yin yang' model by any chance have you? :friendly_wink:

Strange problem though.

Python-Five
26-01-2017, 05:51
Is anyone running the 261 driver/204 firmware CSW v2 on PS4 experiencing the same problems? Erratic behavier of the L2/R2 buttons? CSP v3 running 261 driver/130 firmware.

Sankyo
26-01-2017, 05:54
STOP THE PRESS...

I tightened the screws and tested on PS4 and all the buttons work just fine. I then connected the base to a PC laptop to do a functiontest of all the buttons. All buttons were fine on PC. Now back to PS4 and there it started to get spooky. L2 and R2 did not function or randomly function all by themself. Than I remembered a post about strange button behavier and the guy disconnected the pedals from the base. And so I did and.... everything was fine. Connect the pedals to the base: BAD buttons. Disconnect the pedals from the base: GOOD buttons ;-)

Anyone care to explain? Remco perhaps?

You don't have the pedals connected to base AND USB at the same time, do you?

Python-Five
26-01-2017, 06:20
You don't have the pedals connected to base AND USB at the same time, do you?

Nope... ;-) I did read the manual... (RTFM) And I checked the center screw on the F1 rim which was tight and had not moved. I am lost at this point. I did make a video and promised Fanatec Support to get back to them today.

Python-Five
26-01-2017, 08:17
Okay... This may come as a SHOCK...

You have to start the PS4...
You have to use the controller to navigate to the game and start it...
You have to press the PS button on the controller for two seconds and turn the controller OFF
You have to press 'X' on the rim to start Project Cars.

You can start the base at any time. I do it before I turn on the PS4...

The PS4 controller is interfering with the buttons on the rim... ;-) Go fugure...

EDIT... NO... problem still exists ... DAMN

Python-Five
26-01-2017, 15:09
Okay... this is how things are...

The brake pedal acts as a L2 button when I turn the stiffness down to 1 (the red cylinder). I can move left in menu's using the brake and right using the R2 button. I can also use the L2 and R2 buttons on the PS4 controller btw. Now when I turn up the stiffness on the red cylinder to 3 or more, the brake pedal conflicts with the L2 button and that resluts in erratic behavier. The L2 button on the PS4 controller stops working as does the L2 button on the rim... I can use the R2 button to go right in menu's but it automaticly moves left without touching any button.

Anyone have an idea? ;-)

GrimeyDog
26-01-2017, 16:29
Okay... this is how things are...

The brake pedal acts as a L2 button when I turn the stiffness down to 1 (the red cylinder). I can move left in menu's using the brake and right using the R2 button. I can also use the L2 and R2 buttons on the PS4 controller btw. Now when I turn up the stiffness on the red cylinder to 3 or more, the brake pedal conflicts with the L2 button and that resluts in erratic behavier. The L2 button on the PS4 controller stops working as does the L2 button on the rim... I can use the R2 button to go right in menu's but it automaticly moves left without touching any button.

Anyone have an idea? ;-)



3 Questions

1) Are these readings from PC or PS4???

2)Are you using a USB Hub to Connect your wheel & Controller to PC/PS4??? If so i Suggest Plugging Pedals Straight into the Wheel Base and Wheel base to Port 2 on PS4 and Connect the Controller to PS4 port 1...... Test then Reverse USB ports and See what Happens... Could be a Faulty Hub...The Signals seem to be Getting Mixed up some where.

3) Have you Tried Reinstlling the PC Driver to your PC and Reflashing the wheel???... You may Not have gotten a clean PC Driver instal which will Lead to a Corrupt Wheel FW Flash

Python-Five
26-01-2017, 18:59
3 Questions

1) Are these readings from PC or PS4???

2)Are you using a USB Hub to Connect your wheel & Controller to PC/PS4??? If so i Suggest Plugging Pedals Straight into the Wheel Base and Wheel base to Port 2 on PS4 and Connect the Controller to PS4 port 1...... Test then Reverse USB ports and See what Happens... Could be a Faulty Hub...The Signals seem to be Getting Mixed up some where.

3) Have you Tried Reinstlling the PC Driver to your PC and Reflashing the wheel???... You may Not have gotten a clean PC Driver instal which will Lead to a Corrupt Wheel FW Flash

1) these readings come from within Project Cars on the PS4

2) Pedals go into the base by RJ12 and the base into PS4 by USB. No hub. I also switched ports > no difference.

3) I have installed the 261 driver onto a new laptop and re-flashed the firmware (v261) on the pedals and the base > no difference.

4) This is the reading from the brake pedal in rest so no pressure on it whatsoever from the PC driver window on PC. The red cylinder was on 3. It is putting out a lot of signal...:

236790

There are so many possibilities to test:
Driver 231 on the pedal; 261 on the base
Driver 261 on the pedal; 231 on the base
Find someone with Project Cars on PC and test my pedals/base
Find someone with a different PS4 and test my pedals/base
Test other pedals on my PS4...

I still believe the problem is with the pedals. Disconnect them from the base and the problem goes away...

For now the people at Fanatec Support are very fond of me... I contact them every day ;-)

GrimeyDog
27-01-2017, 21:46
I had that constant brake input problem also when My V3 pedals were new... It will Go away as you use the pedals over time... I dont know what kind of Lube they are using in the pedals Now but if they are Still using Vasseline its too thick!!! I cleaned that stuf out and used Teflon Lube in My pedals and they work Great... Look on the fanatec V3 pedal thread you can find Many answers to this problem... It was and maybe still is a common issue...Also 3 is too High of a setting when the pedals are New.... They are Very stiff the parts have Not set into place yet also it shortens the space in the Red Chaimber and causes the load cell to Read...The Load Cell is Very Sensitive to even Slight pressure.

I dont think the Pedal problem is FW Realated i use the same FW you do and it works well for Me.
also you can try Lowering the BRF function on the wheel... Note i keep My adjustable Cylender at 1 or 1.5 and BRF at 100 so MyBrake pedal is super sensitive but i get No False Readings or Constant Brake applied.

Python-Five
29-01-2017, 19:59
I have narrowed the problem down to the fact that the brake pedal has the same 'function' (move left in menu's) assigned as the L2 button on the Rim or the PS4 Controller. I must have done something wrong when I was exploring the PC Driver. There is a tab that says 'MOUSE'... I do not have a PC right now so I cannot check what I did. I know I DID uncheck the Mouse-option and I DID reflash the firmware after that on both Pedal and Base. Is there a way to - totally - reset the base? Start fresh?

GrimeyDog
29-01-2017, 21:28
I have narrowed the problem down to the fact that the brake pedal has the same 'function' (move left in menu's) assigned as the L2 button on the Rim or the PS4 Controller. I must have done something wrong when I was exploring the PC Driver. There is a tab that says 'MOUSE'... I do not have a PC right now so I cannot check what I did. I know I DID uncheck the Mouse-option and I DID reflash the firmware after that on both Pedal and Base. Is there a way to - totally - reset the base? Start fresh?

Reflashing Base/Pedals is the only way i know to reset everything...you may want to do a fresh driver install on the PC you use to flash wheel and pedal FW.... The mouse button is unchecked for me also... that enables the left joystick to be used to move the mouse...

Im looking at the Proprties page Now and you may want to make sure you did Not change any of the the buttons in the boxes that say "Buttons" and "Axis".... Im thinking this may be where your problem is at.

Edi:There is a default button at the botton tab to reset things:applouse:

Python-Five
30-01-2017, 13:18
I deleted the driver from the PC. Did a restart and reinstalled v261 driver. Restarted the PC and updated the FW on the pedals and the base. It seems that the default function of the brake and throttle within Project Cars is the same as L2 and R2 which is menu left and menu right. Both L2 and R2 buttons are functioning on the Rim AND the brake and throttle also function as left/right controls within certain menu's. No erratic behavier yet...

EDIT: when you put the pedals in Manual-calibration is when things start to go wrong. I have to put the pedals in Auto-Calibration-Mode which is the default setting!

GrimeyDog
30-01-2017, 13:27
I deleted the driver from the PC. Did a restart and reinstalled v261 driver. Restarted the PC and updated the FW on the pedals and the base. It seems that the default function of the brake and throttle within Project Cars is the same as L2 and R2 which is menu left and menu right. Both L2 and R2 buttons are functioning on the Rim AND the brake and throttle also function as left/right controls within certain menu's. No erratic behavier yet...

Yes within the Game Menu that is Correct... But on the PC controler Properties page and within the Game while driving the L2/R2 Buttons act and Function Differently than the Gas, Clutch & Brake pedal.

Python-Five
30-01-2017, 13:48
Yes within the Game Menu that is Correct... But on the PC controler Properties page and within the Game while driving the L2/R2 Buttons act and Function Differently than the Gas, Clutch & Brake pedal.

YES... But once I put the pedals in Auto calibration mode, the brake doesn't put out any signal within the function test page. And there is NO erratic behavier within the menu's.

Do you have the pedals on manual or auto calibration?

GrimeyDog
30-01-2017, 14:02
My pedals are set to Auto.... When you press the Brakes does it reguster/Read input???
If Not then Check to make sure your Brake Pedal is Firmly Plugged into the Brain Box under the pedal plate... It would Not Hurt to unplug each pedal from the Brain Box and blow out any dust that may be in there then Plug each pedal Back in making sure you have a Solid firm Connection.

Python-Five
30-01-2017, 14:18
My pedals are set to Auto.... When you press the Brakes does it reguster/Read input???
If Not then Check to make sure your Brake Pedal is Firmly Plugged into the Brain Box under the pedal plate... It would Not Hurt to unplug each pedal from the Brain and Box blow ot any dust that may be in there and Plug each pedal Back in making sure you have a Solid firm Connection.

YES... YES... YES... ;-) When set to Auto mode, everything is fine ;-) No erratic movement, no disconnecting, no static problems. The only thing I cannot do is put the stiffness any higher than 1. Not that I need to but I just had to check. So... everything works as it should be. I don't want to jinx it by saying 'Problem Solved'... but fingers crossed ;-)

GrimeyDog
30-01-2017, 15:54
YES... YES... YES... ;-) When set to Auto mode, everything is fine ;-) No erratic movement, no disconnecting, no static problems. The only thing I cannot do is put the stiffness any higher than 1. Not that I need to but I just had to check. So... everything works as it should be. I don't want to jinx it by saying 'Problem Solved'... but fingers crossed ;-)

Seems that your good to go:yes:

Python-Five
30-01-2017, 19:35
Seems that your good to go:yes:

Nope... The brake pedal is still very sensitive within the Menu's of Project Cars, causing menu's to go left by themselfs.

Was that behavier also present in the v231 driver? I mean controling the menu's with brake and throttle? I wish I could turn that off somewhere!!

GrimeyDog
30-01-2017, 20:20
That is annoying but it will Go away after you break your pedals in...for now add a tad bit of Dead Zone in the Brake Pedal to get rid of it and keep stiffness on 1
also if they Lubed your pedals with Technical Vaseline you should clean that out and use a PTFE Teflon Lube...This Lube Works 100% better!!!

I use Dr 250 FW 176 its very stable and IMO feels better than the New DR 260/261 FW 204

Python-Five
30-01-2017, 21:57
That is annoying but it will Go away after you break your pedals in...for now add a tad bit of Dead Zone in the Brake Pedal to get rid of it and keep stiffness on 1
also if they Lubed your pedals with Technical Vaseline you should clean that out and use a PTFE Teflon Lube...This Lube Works 100% better!!!

I use Dr 250 FW 176 its very stable and IMO feels better than the New DR 260/261 FW 204

It is annoying indeed. It only happens within the menu's, not during racing. But if the brake is so sensitive; and I cannot imagine what this would be with the Brake Performance Kit installed; why in Gods name make the brake and throttle pedal control the left and right menu's (L2 and R2). I cannot think of a reason for it to be that way. I also do not know if this is a Fanatec Driver feature (or failure) or a PS4 issue. I have not found the settings for this to be turned off...

GrimeyDog
31-01-2017, 00:21
It is annoying indeed. It only happens within the menu's, not during racing. But if the brake is so sensitive; and I cannot imagine what this would be with the Brake Performance Kit installed; why in Gods name make the brake and throttle pedal control the left and right menu's (L2 and R2). I cannot think of a reason for it to be that way. I also do not know if this is a Fanatec Driver feature (or failure) or a PS4 issue. I have not found the settings for this to be turned off...

Its the PU foam inside the cylinder its not properly seated/Broke in yet just keep using the pedals it will go away...Also as i note if they lubed the pedals with technical Vaseline you should clean it out and use PTFE Teflon Lube.... check the Fanatec forum V3 thread there is much info on this problem and just about all V3 owner go through it until the pedal PU foam is broke in and properly lubed... My pedals are nice and broke in and work beautiful....Also this is why they came out with the Eladure Brake performance kit... 1)The constant/Erratic brake input until the Pu foam is properly broke in and lubed 2) if the PU foam goes Dry it will have a crunchy feel to it....Teflon Lube cures this:yes:

Python-Five
31-01-2017, 06:07
Mind you: brake input during a race is fine. Not erratic at all. Just within the menu's of Project Cars. I doubt if brake pedal deadzone will help but I will try... They supplied Lithium Grease with the pedals. Could you link me to the pedal thread?

Thank you for taking the time to keep helping me out with this ;-)

Python-Five
31-01-2017, 07:39
It seems that the possibility to control the menu's with the Fanatec pedals is built within the Project Cars Support for Fanatec Pedals. It is a SMS/WMD feature. So who do I have to contact here to get this sorted?

Sankyo
31-01-2017, 07:46
It seems that the possibility to control the menu's with the Fanatec pedals is built within the Project Cars Support for Fanatec Pedals. It is a SMS/WMD feature. So who do I have to contact here to get this sorted?
It's not a game-breaking bug so it won't be changed, sorry.

Python-Five
31-01-2017, 07:50
It's not a game-breaking bug so it won't be changed, sorry.

I did't think it would but is it a feature or a bug?

Sankyo
31-01-2017, 08:19
I did't think it would but is it a feature or a bug?

I think it's a feature, but I'm not too familiar with the game on consoles.

Python-Five
31-01-2017, 08:24
I think it's a feature, but I'm not too familiar with the game on consoles.

Is this feature also on PC? I am getting a PC later this year anyway. For now I have to disconnect the pedals when entering the menu's. I can't imagine I am the only one getting this 'feature'...

Sankyo
31-01-2017, 08:39
Is this feature also on PC? I am getting a PC later this year anyway. For now I have to disconnect the pedals when entering the menu's. I can't imagine I am the only one getting this 'feature'...
On PC the pedals also operate the menus I think, at least last night in pCARS2 I think I had it happen once :)

Python-Five
31-01-2017, 08:50
On PC the pedals also operate the menus I think, at least last night in pCARS2 I think I had it happen once :)

Grimey thinks this happens to me because the pedals are new and noy yet broken in...? Hope he's right because when this also happens on PC I have to contact Fanatec Support again ;-(

GrimeyDog
31-01-2017, 13:12
Mind you: brake input during a race is fine. Not erratic at all. Just within the menu's of Project Cars. I doubt if brake pedal deadzone will help but I will try... They supplied Lithium Grease with the pedals. Could you link me to the pedal thread?

Thank you for taking the time to keep helping me out with this ;-)

The Lithium Grease IMO is Garbage...As i said check the Forum thread even Fanatec Suggested to use a PTFE Teflon Lube... Also that Erratic braking will go away as the Pedals Break in....

The Eratic Braking Does happen in Game while driving!!!! Drive with your telemetry up you will see it... also you can Drive in 3rd person and see the Brake lights Randomly flickering on and off.

This Happens PC, PS4 & Xbox1 I have and played all 3 systems extensively while i was Tweeking FFB... Its Not a FW problem... Its a Break in or Lube Problem... as i stated i have long ago cleaned the Vasseline out of My pedals and used Teflon Lube... My Pedals are Well Broken in and perform Flawless.

Python-Five
31-01-2017, 13:17
As i said check the Forum thread....

Where is it? Can't find it ... Sorry.

GrimeyDog
31-01-2017, 13:37
Where is it? Can't find it ... Sorry.

I will post link when i get a chance... im at work posting from my phone....Its No big trouble for Me dont worry... We are Sim Racing Bothers:victorious:

Its should be in the older V3 pedal thread though.

Python-Five
31-01-2017, 14:02
No hurry. I like to catch up on some more reading ;-) I am having a go at the Formula Rookie tonight. Get the hang of shifting so to speak. I just broke my controller time at Dubai International. I did a 1:37 lap once using the controller. Now I did a 1:37:40 running the Aston Martin V12 GT. I have done so much testing and reading for the last month that I need to put some time in driving...

Thanks Lorrell for - again - taking your time to help ;-)

GrimeyDog
31-01-2017, 14:45
I Stress the PTFE Telon Lube because its a DRY Lube!!! It will Not attract or Catch Dust... Vasseline and the Supplied Lithium Lube Will attract Dust and any other particals that land on it.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-9-3-oz-Advanced-Dry-Lube-with-Teflon-16-TDL/202532762

Its Not that hard to take the Bake Cylender off...the First time it takes more time and patience than anything... once you do it the first time the Next time will only take 20 min start to finiish.

Python-Five
31-01-2017, 14:53
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?45270-Fanatec-Pedals-Activating-Menus&highlight=pedal

I found this post. These guys are having the same problems and this was in february 2016...

We also have dry teflon Lube here in the Netherlands ;-) I do not want to take apart the cylinder just yet.

Python-Five
01-02-2017, 12:19
I think I have found the cause for the menu changing thing:

I found out that when you change the settings on the red preload cylinder, say from 1 to 3, there is more pressure on the loadcell. Basically it is like pressing the brake a little with your foot. You can see a constant signal comming from the brake in the function panel within the PC driver when in Manual Calibration Mode. What I would do is get a PC (I do not own one) and put the pedals to Auto Calibration Mode. Than press every pedal to 100%. Than return to Manual Calibration and check if the signal is gone. Than I go into PS4/XB1 and check the menu's. I normally run the pedals in Auto Calibration Mode.

Every time you change the preload on the red cylinder, you have to calibrate the pedal. But it is most important to do so when you go from 1 to 3, or from 2 to 5 because that increases the pressure on the loadcell.

Python-Five
01-02-2017, 20:24
Damn... every time I think I have found the solution, the solution slaps me in the face...

When you have just done a calibration of the pedals on the PC, everything is fine, even when you take the car for a spin. Menu's work like they should and everything is dandy. I checked this twice this morning. But when you leave things alone for a while - like when you have to go to work - and you want to do some driving in the evening: damn... there go the menu's again. And I CAN hear the voice of Grimey in my head: "you have to break in the pedals..." But it just bugs me soo much ;-) Is there a therapist in da house ;-)

It is not that you have to calibrate the pedals on PC every time you turn them on?

Okay... I just shut up about it. Carry on...

Sankyo
01-02-2017, 20:27
Don't hesitate to contact Fanatec Support again if you feel something isn't right. Unfortunately I have no experience with what you're experiencing as I don't play on console.

Python-Five
01-02-2017, 20:56
Don't hesitate to contact Fanatec Support again if you feel something isn't right. Unfortunately I have no experience with what you're experiencing as I don't play on console.

It is not a console only thing. It is a feature of Project Cars. Can you go left or right within the menu's of pCars on PC using the brake (left or L2) and throttle (right or R2)? Could you try this for me?

The thing is that there is just enough signal to mess up the menu's but not enough to see the brake lights light up seen from chase view... I can work around this problem and it does not affect driving... It just bugs me... And I still have to figure out if this is a pedal issue or if I have to be patient and wait for the pedals to break in...

GrimeyDog
01-02-2017, 21:55
Damn... every time I think I have found the solution, the solution slaps me in the face...

When you have just done a calibration of the pedals on the PC, everything is fine, even when you take the car for a spin. Menu's work like they should and everything is dandy. I checked this twice this morning. But when you leave things alone for a while - like when you have to go to work - and you want to do some driving in the evening: damn... there go the menu's again. And I CAN hear the voice of Grimey in my head: "you have to break in the pedals..." But it just bugs me soo much ;-) Is there a therapist in da house ;-)

It is not that you have to calibrate the pedals on PC every time you turn them on?

Okay... I just shut up about it. Carry on...


Don't hesitate to contact Fanatec Support again if you feel something isn't right. Unfortunately I have no experience with what you're experiencing as I don't play on console.


Remco it happens on PC also...He just Needs to Break the Pedals in properly and Perhaps Re-Lube the pedals with Teflon Lube... I know you remember the Fanatec V3 thread where this was a issue Many complained about even Me My self i had the same issue but after Re-Lubing the pedals with Teflon Lube it became Much Less Frequent... I Rarely if ever have that problem now.

LOL... Python you read My Mind Midway into your post i was saying Break the Pedals in in My Head... LOL.

Turn the BrF function on the wheel to 100% and set your Cylinder to 1 or 1.5 Max and you will be fine.

BrF= Brake Reduction Force--->BrF 100 This Meas that your pedals are Super sensitive so any input is Read Ex: Less Pedal Travel More Braking Effect Or you can Turn Down BrF to make the Brake pedal Less Responsive to input... So you will Have to push Harder to get to 100% Brake Reading.

GrimeyDog
01-02-2017, 22:04
Damn... every time I think I have found the solution, the solution slaps me in the face...

When you have just done a calibration of the pedals on the PC, everything is fine, even when you take the car for a spin. Menu's work like they should and everything is dandy. I checked this twice this morning. But when you leave things alone for a while - like when you have to go to work - and you want to do some driving in the evening: damn... there go the menu's again. And I CAN hear the voice of Grimey in my head: "you have to break in the pedals..." But it just bugs me soo much ;-) Is there a therapist in da house ;-)

It is not that you have to calibrate the pedals on PC every time you turn them on?

Okay... I just shut up about it. Carry on...


It is not a console only thing. It is a feature of Project Cars. Can you go left or right within the menu's of pCars on PC using the brake (left or L2) and throttle (right or R2)? Could you try this for me?

The thing is that there is just enough signal to mess up the menu's but not enough to see the brake lights light up seen from chase view... I can work around this problem and it does not affect driving... It just bugs me... And I still have to figure out if this is a pedal issue or if I have to be patient and wait for the pedals to break in...

It happens during Races also!!! I Noticed this because i kept getting hit from Behind and guys from the league i was Racing in were getting Mad asking Me why i was akways Braking on Straights... They thought i was trying to Brake Check them and give them Front aero damage... also I noticed that My lap time would be off by .500 or more from My Norm... I saved a few Videos and saw My Brakes were actually on when i wasn't pressing them... Drive in 3rd person when you Notice its changing the Menus and you will see it... Save the Video and watch it... some times pressure on the gas but Not the Brake is enough to make the pedals Flex to cause it to happen. I also loosed the 2 screws on the side of the Cylinder and stuck a thin feeler Gauge (used for adjusting points on old cars) in and re-tightend the screws to adjust it... I dunno if that's what fixed it or Not but i don't have that issue anymore.

Python-Five
02-02-2017, 06:30
I also tightend those srews on the side of the cylinder: that helped a little but no definitive solution...

Addendum: Did a short test. Tightend the two screws on the side of the cylinder. Then turned on the base and pressed all three pedals to the MAX position. When I understand correctly, when in Auto Calibration Mode, this will calibrate the pedals (from the base side). Then turned on the PS4 and checked the menu's in the setup settings of a car. No problems. Both L2 and R2 function fine as do the brake (left) and throttle (right). No erratic behavier of the menu's. Then I calibrated the pedals in game. Both the clutch as the throttle were pushed fully down to get to 100% in game. I only pressed the brake until I got 100% in game. Note that the brake pedal is NOT press all the way down. You reach 100% way sooner. Took the car for a drive and returned to the menu's. They were still fine...

I hope this is not turning out to be a neverending story but it sure looks like one ;-)

GrimeyDog
02-02-2017, 11:20
I Never calibrate wheel ir pedals PS4 or PC...I just power base on press all pedals fully and im good to go.

Python-Five
02-02-2017, 12:05
I Never calibrate wheel ir pedals PS4 or PC...I just power base on press all pedals fully and im good to go.

To be clear: Power base on and press all pedals. Than power on PC or PS4 and start Project Cars. You also have to calibrate the pedals (and wheel) in Project Cars? Right?
In essence you have to calibrate twice...

GrimeyDog
02-02-2017, 14:53
i power on PC/ PS4 power on wheel...wait for wheel to Finish Calibrating---> Press all Pedals Fully to 100%----> Pull Hand Brake to 100%---> Load up Pcars---> Press X to stat Game and thats it.

I Have Not done any in Game Wheel or Pedal calibration...I tried it before and it seems to throw the wheel/Pedals off More than it Helps....Also Note I have My wheel DOR set to Auto for PC/PS4.

Only time i would Calibrate wheel and Pedals n Game is if i were using Custom DOR or Pedal Settings... only then you should do in game Calibration other than that IMO in Game Wheel/Pedal Calibration is Not Needed.

Python-Five
03-02-2017, 08:19
i power on PC/ PS4 power on wheel...wait for wheel to Finish Calibrating---> Press all Pedals Fully to 100%----> Pull Hand Brake to 100%---> Load up Pcars---> Press X to stat Game and thats it.

I Have Not done any in Game Wheel or Pedal calibration...I tried it before and it seems to throw the wheel/Pedals off More than it Helps....Also Note I have My wheel DOR set to Auto for PC/PS4.

Only time i would Calibrate wheel and Pedals n Game is if i were using Custom DOR or Pedal Settings... only then you should do in game Calibration other than that IMO in Game Wheel/Pedal Calibration is Not Needed.

You are right (again): you do not need to calibrate in game. My wheel is set to DOR Auto as well. Yesterday morning everything was fine. Yesterday evening the menu's went crazy. This morning everything was fine again. And I moved my rig around a lot to see if the pedalplate flexing a little would cause the menu's to move but NO... Just fine. I will check again this evening and that is the last effort I am going to put into this.

amyrong
01-03-2017, 05:17
Maybe you can buy bathroom scales from amazon.

Nomad06
19-03-2017, 11:57
Without reading 252 pages in this thread. Is there a resolve for the Fanatec GT3rs?

Pcars won't start up with my wheel plugged into the Ps4, as soon as I disconnect the usb...everything is fine.

I've dloaded last week latest drivers...so as far as I know Pcars is supposed to support the Fanatec on PS4.

Thanks in advance for any info on this

Sankyo
20-03-2017, 08:59
Without reading 252 pages in this thread. Is there a resolve for the Fanatec GT3rs?

Pcars won't start up with my wheel plugged into the Ps4, as soon as I disconnect the usb...everything is fine.

I've dloaded last week latest drivers...so as far as I know Pcars is supposed to support the Fanatec on PS4.

Thanks in advance for any info on this
Yes it should work. What do you mean with "I've dloaded last week latest drivers"?
Also, the issue may be related to other USB devices connected. And are you using the correct sequence of connecting the wheel and starting pCARS?

Nomad06
27-03-2017, 01:59
Yes it should work. What do you mean with "I've dloaded last week latest drivers"?
Also, the issue may be related to other USB devices connected. And are you using the correct sequence of connecting the wheel and starting pCARS?

Just a predictive text/type O ...just meant to say; dloaded lastest drivers, last week.

I couldn't find my original post, so I thought it might of been removed for not posting in the right category...so so reposted in the Ps4 section.

Anyway, as far as the "right sequence", what I found was use the ds4 controller to the "start menu" ect...then use the wheel from there...the problem is..as soon as I either turn on the wheel...it locks up at the start menu..or prior...I tried even brought the game into main menu with the da4 then turn on the wheel..still freezes...unplug the wheel, takes a few secs...but it will unfreeze for lack of better terms...and I can continue with the ds4...

Just to add...it gets stuck in the SMS/WMD screen...can not use the wheel to start Pcars.....as I've tried that as well, works fine on PC ...just having an issue with it on Pcars with the ps4

Update. So the only way into the main Pcars lobby is to use the controller...once in I turned on my wheel...I can navigate the menu...but barley, the lag is extreme. I go to controller setup and of course it's not recognizing the wheel...just the controller.

So I tried once again use the controller to get out of menu...close Pcars ...wheel wont start Pcars from ps4 main screen...tried restarting the ps4...same thing

On...so found out why my screen wasn't loading....because your have to keep moving the wheel around while pressing buttons....you do have to use the controller in the ps4 startup menu for Pcars...once to the start screen od Pcars...then use the wheel...again making sure I kept moving my wheel....I thought once through calibration this would go away...but no such luck...continually have to move wheel around ..when getting on track..there is lag especially in the straights where there is little movement...also the wheel Feb jerks around as well on the straights.

I am not sure what else to do...other than re install the drivers for this wheel...as even I try to update...it tells me I have the latest drivers

alitomr1979
11-09-2017, 07:28
I am now considering the Fanatec CSW 2.5...I'd like to know if it is currently working with the ps4. I will include the pedals and probably an F1 and the bmw GT wheel.

How likely is that system to work in GRan Turismo Sport?? I am in the USA, btw... no option for the official ps4 compatible CSL Elite, and wont wait indefinitely for it. I need to buy in the next 10 days to start playing PRoject Cars 2 in the PC. But I own a PS4 and would like to be able to use with it whatever sim racing rig I end up buying.

Sankyo
11-09-2017, 09:23
I am now considering the Fanatec CSW 2.5...I'd like to know if it is currently working with the ps4. I will include the pedals and probably an F1 and the bmw GT wheel.

How likely is that system to work in GRan Turismo Sport?? I am in the USA, btw... no option for the official ps4 compatible CSL Elite, and wont wait indefinitely for it. I need to buy in the next 10 days to start playing PRoject Cars 2 in the PC. But I own a PS4 and would like to be able to use with it whatever sim racing rig I end up buying.
The CSW v2.5 is not a licensed wheel so it will not be supported on PS4. The only way to get around that is to use a ChronusMax (Plus) or similar device, but that is of course at your own risk (not that it will damage your wheel, but it's not something that Sony approves).

ZXVETTE
03-10-2017, 02:55
Hello, I will apologize in advance if there is already a resolution, but I have searched and cannot locate anything. I have not used Project Cars in about a year, but when I last did, I was able to play without issue. I have a PS4 with the Fanatec CSR Elite wheel and pedals. I remember having to get the game started with the dual shock and then at the race Start menu, power off the dual shock and power on the wheel, put the wheel in PC mode, and then start the race. I also remember having to have the clutch mapped in the configuration to a face button (i.e. circle button). I have all of that done but when I start the race and it is about to begin, the screen that appears is in the Pause menu and I cannot Resume to get into the race. I can access other menus in the pause screen such as HUD config, simulate rest of race, and exit, but I cannot press X to Resume out of this screen into the race. When I press it, it flickers as if it's going to resume but will not leave the pause screen. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Adrian-
07-10-2017, 04:47
Hi Guys I have been offered a fanatec V1.0 base really cheap can I use a wheel from The V2.0 ?
Cheers

Sankyo
07-10-2017, 12:05
Hi Guys I have been offered a fanatec V1.0 base really cheap can I use a wheel from The V2.0 ?
Cheers

Yes, all rims are compatible with all bases.

Gavin Thomas
21-05-2018, 16:33
Is there a Fanatec Support agent on this forum?
I need a new parts for my Clubsport V2 pedals and I can't find the links to purcahse them via Google haha

Sankyo
21-05-2018, 19:19
Is there a Fanatec Support agent on this forum?
I need a new parts for my Clubsport V2 pedals and I can't find the links to purcahse them via Google haha

Try and contact Fanatec Support through their website. What parts do you need?

ArrowX
10-03-2019, 20:15
Hi,
I have used my Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel with Project Cars 2 on my Playstation 4 and everything worked fine! The wheel did it's job just like 5 years ago in Gran Turismo and other racing games on my Playstation 3.

Recently I have upgraded from the Playstation 4 to the Playstation 4 Pro. I have transfered my profiles from the PS4 to the PS4 Pro and wanted to continue playing Project Cars 2 now in 4k and some more graphics details.
The Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel (PWTS) is cannot connect to the PS4 Pro anymore...! This is super sad.

Has there been a compatibility change from PS4 to PS4 Pro with the old Fanatec wheels?

Sankyo
12-03-2019, 07:39
Hi,
I have used my Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel with Project Cars 2 on my Playstation 4 and everything worked fine! The wheel did it's job just like 5 years ago in Gran Turismo and other racing games on my Playstation 3.

Recently I have upgraded from the Playstation 4 to the Playstation 4 Pro. I have transfered my profiles from the PS4 to the PS4 Pro and wanted to continue playing Project Cars 2 now in 4k and some more graphics details.
The Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel (PWTS) is cannot connect to the PS4 Pro anymore...! This is super sad.

Has there been a compatibility change from PS4 to PS4 Pro with the old Fanatec wheels?
Sounds to me like you never updated your original PS4? Sony switched from allowing all hardware to be supported by developers to only allowing certain licensed hardware quite some time ago already. I think this was introduced through an OS update on the original PS4 as well I believe.

So unfortunately due to Sony deciding to go the licensed hardware route, a lot of old hardware has become obsolete. The only way around it is to use something like DriveHub to connect your GT2 to the PS4 (it emulates a Logitech wheel IIRC).