PDA

View Full Version : [PS4] Fanatec hardware discussion thread



Pages : 1 [2] 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

GBRC.C7
14-05-2015, 17:39
What is this post doing on this thread, Hell in a hand cart it just gets worse.

CREATE SEPARATE THREADS MODS, I can barely keep track of this one how are the devs supposed to sort the wheat from the chaff

Sankyo
14-05-2015, 17:42
When I press on the gas pedal in gear the car doesn't move. Fanatec CSR with elite wheels. :confused:
Did you assign and calibrate your predals?

Sankyo
14-05-2015, 17:53
which setup you used for CSW v2 (in the game and in the CSW wheel setup)? I want a ffb like Assetto Corsa...thx!
Pretty much everything default, although the default FFB strength in-game is 50, which must be set to 100 to get good FFB.

For AC-like FFB you'd have to do your own tweaking, although you may get in the right direction by using Jack Spade's tweakers, see elsewhere in this forum. Personally I don't like AC's FFB at all and really like pCARS's FFB. Sometimes I tweak the FFB of a car to get more weight transfer feel, by increasing the relative contribution of Fy to the total FFB. It's all personal and subjective, unfortunately :)

Sankyo
14-05-2015, 17:55
hi Remco, is there any ETA on the patch ?

Not yet, sorry. All wheel issues are being investigated currently, and only when everything is resolved it will go into a patch.

Sankyo
14-05-2015, 17:58
My csr doesn't connect at all. It's in pc mode and the firmware is up to date but I press the x button at the start menu and nothing happens.
Odd. The button does work? You can check by connecting it to a PC with the Fanatec driver installed.

Sankyo
14-05-2015, 18:01
on the GT2 / 3RS front I still have some serious doubts, if this wheel can be made to work with the PS4 in a fully supported way as we have been told pre-launch and in this thread why wouldn't that also be possible with the xbox (it only supports Clubsport V1 & V2 I believe form the Fanatec range)?
The situation on PS4 and XB1 w.r.t. Fanatec wheel support is very different. On XB1, only hardware equipped with a security chip will function, meaning that all old hardware is not compatible. On PS4, any wheel can be used but IIUC the game has to support the wheel by having its own wheel driver.

GBRC.C7
14-05-2015, 18:04
The situation on PS4 and XB1 w.r.t. Fanatec wheel support is very different. On XB1, only hardware equipped with a security chip will function, meaning that all old hardware is not compatible. On PS4, any wheel can be used but IIUC the game has to support the wheel by having its own wheel driver.

I wondered if that was the case but with so much B/S also stated about PS4 security chips over the last 6months what are any of us to believe ?

flatspunout
14-05-2015, 18:06
How do I enable the CSR rumble motors? Firmware 756 CSPv1, using Jack's Classic FFB settings. Thanks.

Sankyo
14-05-2015, 18:19
How do I enable the CSR rumble motors? Firmware 756 CSPv1, using Jack's Classic FFB settings. Thanks.
Set 'Sho' on the wheel to a non-zero value. I don't think they're supported currently in the game, though.

flatspunout
14-05-2015, 19:34
Set 'Sho' on the wheel to a non-zero value. I don't think they're supported currently in the game, though.

Sho is at 100, should have mentioned that. They work great in Race Pro on 360 so they must not be supported. Is this something we can look forward to in the future? Thanks.

OnlookerDelay
14-05-2015, 20:08
FIX: I fixed this by updating the firmware on the CSR wheel to version 756.

I was having the same issues with disconnections occasionally and always with the clutch disengaging while accelerating. I did just what you said above and it fixed all of my problems with Project CARS. I thought I was actually using 756 to begin with, but all I had a was a folder containing the drivers on my hard drive, but I had never actually installed the :o What a different this made in my impressions of the game... this, along with Jack Spade's force feedback files have transformed this game into this century's Grand Prix Legends, as far as I'm concerned! ;)

Sankyo
14-05-2015, 20:26
Sho is at 100, should have mentioned that. They work great in Race Pro on 360 so they must not be supported. Is this something we can look forward to in the future? Thanks.
I don't now really, it was talked about but I don't know if it's on the list to be added to the FFB effects.

Linx
14-05-2015, 20:47
I was having the same issues with disconnections occasionally and always with the clutch disengaging while accelerating. I did just what you said above and it fixed all of my problems with Project CARS. I thought I was actually using 756 to begin with, but all I had a was a folder containing the drivers on my hard drive, but I had never actually installed the :o What a different this made in my impressions of the game... this, along with Jack Spade's force feedback files have transformed this game into this century's Grand Prix Legends, as far as I'm concerned! ;)

So are you saying your clutch pedal works?

flatspunout
14-05-2015, 21:29
I don't now really, it was talked about but I don't know if it's on the list to be added to the FFB effects.

I appreciate the information and strongly suggest adding them as FFB really isn't complete without rumble. Kerbs, brake lockup, and wheelspin feedback is essential for consistent lap times wouldn't you agree? Thanks again.

smokey
14-05-2015, 22:09
Is it worth updating the FW on my CSW V1 as I'm still running FW37 for PS4

K_Soze
14-05-2015, 22:22
No it will not make the game playable. I have the firmware 65 and I prefer to wait for a patch.

smokey
15-05-2015, 01:15
No it will not make the game playable. I have the firmware 65 and I prefer to wait for a patch.

Ok thanks Soze is this a game patch or a wheel FW patch? As the game is playable at moment just with a pretty big dead spot it seems

331 LX
15-05-2015, 03:36
I'd like to update that I got the new firmware onto my GT2 wheel.

I put the wheel into PC mode, and instantly it started working with Project Cars on PS4! This is good.

The Bad- It recognizes the Fanatec Turbo wheel, but I can't calibrate.

- (Could be because of no calibration)
-FF feels weak

I set all the deadzones to 0 and it's drivable, but needs work. Any tips on a setup in this thread that I missed?

Thanks guys.

Small Video in the Boss302R playing with the GT2.
https://youtu.be/DPWOxBWR_Fk

OnlookerDelay
15-05-2015, 06:05
So are you saying your clutch pedal works?

It works in the pedal calibration mode, but I learned a long time ago that I can't properly handle a manual clutch while using paddle shifters. I use autoclutch in the game with manual transmission. I'll try the manual clutch in-game tomorrow just to see if it works. When I said the clutch was disengaging prior to the 756 driver installation, I was referring to the auto-clutch.

Sik180sx
15-05-2015, 09:57
Lol i'm keeping this thread front page.

K_Soze
15-05-2015, 10:01
We need a game patch. Most of the FFB issues are PS4 FFB issues (the same issues are experienced by a friend who own a T500Rs).

RAVEracer
15-05-2015, 10:17
So my GTS RS finally came today. And I'm dumbfounded at the sheer size of the cock up. Even though I knew about the problems, I was still super excited for the arrival of my nice new wheel. And then I put on Project CARS. And it lagged (I'm aware updating the firmware fixes this). So I got to a race using the DS4 to see if I set my wheel up right. Nothing happens no matter what input I do with the wheel/pedals/gearstick. So that was that.

I then whacked up good old GT6 to play with my new toy. It was fun, though I couldn't change up gears (using the sequential shifter) and the clutch didn't work. (why??)

I don't remember patches existing on PS2 (maybe they did). I can't understand what would happen if this happened on TOCA 3 / V8 Supercars 3 for example. Or any other major bug for that matter. Anyway. Project CARS is a magically epic game. My wheel is amazing. Words cannot describe how much I'm looking forward to this being fixed.

fbetes
15-05-2015, 10:42
My workaround to have a "decent" FFB in the game (reducing the dead zone) with my Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S (idem with GT2 and GT3 I suppose):

-Game: reduce the dead zone to 0 (1º default when you load the game)

-Wheel: decrease your SEN = 420º / DRI = 2 or 3 (it's your choice) / SPR = 2 / DPR = 4

READY, enjoy the game!!!! There is a minimum dead zone but the game is more playable...

Sorry for my english

PD: if you drive a Formula A you should decrease the angle to 380º aprox. The most important is increase/decrease the SEN MENU from your wheel (not in the game)

Titzon Toast
15-05-2015, 16:22
My workaround to have a "decent" FFB in the game (reducing the dead zone) with my Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S (idem with GT2 and GT3 I suppose):

-Game: reduce the dead zone to 0 (1º default when you load the game)

-Wheel: decrease your SEN = 420º / DRI = 2 or 3 (it's your choice) / SPR = 2 / DPR = 4

READY, enjoy the game!!!! There is a minimum dead zone but the game is more playable...

Sorry for my english

PD: if you drive a Formula A you should decrease the angle to 380º aprox. The most important is increase/decrease the SEN MENU from your wheel (not in the game)

Thanks for sharing these, I have the same wheel but I'm gonna wait for a patch rather than use a workaround.

Terry_T
15-05-2015, 19:21
Hi everyone first post got a Porche 911 gt3 RS wheel on project cars on the ps4
and my that is some deadzone also l2 and r2 buttons don't work so I can do no car set up hope these issues will be sorted soon.Have made game playable by setting the wheel to 300 degrees and turning up the master scale to 120 or higher and the arm angle to 2000 on the in game feedback.

gamerasi
15-05-2015, 19:22
We're still waiting for patch...

WhoosierGirl
15-05-2015, 20:12
Hi everyone first post got a Porche 911 gt3 RS wheel on project cars on the ps4
and my that is some deadzone also l2 and r2 buttons don't work so I can do no car set up hope these issues will be sorted soon.Have made game playable by setting the wheel to 300 degrees and turning up the master scale to 120 or higher and the arm angle to 2000 on the in game feedback.

I have the same wheel, L2 is the Brake pedal and R2 is the Gas pedal when in the tuning menu's.

Linx
15-05-2015, 20:15
I have a CSR and L2 R2 work for me. But can anyone tell me what can you tune? It seems all I can tune is tire pressure and brake bias and vents

navig8
15-05-2015, 22:42
I made a thread about how I solved some of the issues I had:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?25495-Fanatec-Users-How-I-fixed-my-wheel-issues

Linx
15-05-2015, 22:55
I made a thread about how I solved some of the issues I had:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?25495-Fanatec-Users-How-I-fixed-my-wheel-issues
That's another question I have. Using the different FFB set ups posted in these threads, what I'm getting is just a tighter feeling wheel. I'm not getting actual feedback such as losing traction or such things. Is this right?

GrimGrnninGhost
15-05-2015, 23:13
I made a thread about how I solved some of the issues I had:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?25495-Fanatec-Users-How-I-fixed-my-wheel-issues

I see that thread is in the PC subforum. were these tested on the PS4? Thanks

navig8
15-05-2015, 23:42
I see that thread is in the PC subforum. were these tested on the PS4? Thanks

No it was only tested on PC. You could still try them on the PS4 only you will have to change the some of the settings in the car setup menus instead of jack spade's text files.

navig8
15-05-2015, 23:45
That's another question I have. Using the different FFB set ups posted in these threads, what I'm getting is just a tighter feeling wheel. I'm not getting actual feedback such as losing traction or such things. Is this right?

Yes, IMO a patch is still needed. The changes you can make still leaves the steering feeling a bit rough. it's not a rock solid experience.

joedoro
15-05-2015, 23:57
My workaround to have a "decent" FFB in the game (reducing the dead zone) with my Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S (idem with GT2 and GT3 I suppose):

-Game: reduce the dead zone to 0 (1º default when you load the game)

-Wheel: decrease your SEN = 420º / DRI = 2 or 3 (it's your choice) / SPR = 2 / DPR = 4

READY, enjoy the game!!!! There is a minimum dead zone but the game is more playable...

Sorry for my english

PD: if you drive a Formula A you should decrease the angle to 380º aprox. The most important is increase/decrease the SEN MENU from your wheel (not in the game)

Hey this is great - the game is now at least playable. thanks for figuring this out

paulgp
16-05-2015, 03:17
I've got the Fanatec 911 Turbo (not S) wheel with the Turbo S RF dongle, needed to upgrade the dongle to get full PS3 compatibility. Not sure what firmware is on the wheel/dongle but it might be the stock 681.

In Project cars with wheel in PC-mode the wheel works but the game has extreme lag like a few others have mentioned. The fix for this seems to be to upgrade to the latest 756 firmware, but I'm not sure if I can upgrade the firmware with having the turbo (not S) wheel and even if I could upgrade the 756 firmware disables the use of the RF dongle (the not S wheel only has wireless, it doesn't have a USB cable).

A bit more detail about the extreme lag. The game seems to stall until a signal from the wheel is sent to the game, so if I do small wobbles of the wheel side to side quickly the game runs at a somewhat playable frame rate (I have managed to drive an entire lap doing this). But if I stop moving the wheel the game completely stalls and I can advance the game frame by frame every time I push a button on the wheel. It stalls the game like this everywhere not just in a race like the menus, loading screens, opening video and even loading the game from the PS4 menu, so I have to wobble the wheel to load into the game.

It's seems like the game is waiting for a signal from the wheel before it goes on to render the next frame, but the wheel with the older firmware and/or wireless dongle might only be sending a signal when something changes on the wheel. The newer firmware 756 loses the wireless dongle support because it needs fast communication, so maybe they changed it from only sending a signal when something changes on the wheel to sending a continuous signal, which might be why upgrading to the latest 756 firmware fixes the extreme lag problem. If this is the reason for the extreme lag hopefully it will be an easy fix for SMS to patch as they would only have to stop this continuous checking for the wheel signal.

Everything on the wheel seems to be fine, like FFB, minimal dead zone. but it's a bit hard to really test it out when I'm having to continuously wobble the wheel to make the game run.

The game runs fine if I unplug the wheel and just play with the controller, but who wants to do that. Guess I'll will have to just try the wheel again when each new patch comes out to see if it's been fixed.

Patrik Marek
16-05-2015, 04:17
if I had to categorize (which is pointless)

I would say that HEAVY SIM is something where you have million options for everything, you have to spend 3 days just to setup everythign to work correctly on your hardware,
and in this sence, pCARS might be the best simulator ever!

Vylen
16-05-2015, 07:38
if I had to categorize (which is pointless)

I would say that HEAVY SIM is something where you have million options for everything, you have to spend 3 days just to setup everythign to work correctly on your hardware,
and in this sence, pCARS might be the best simulator ever!

So you are saying, we have to fix these problems? You are obviousy playing on PC

smoothherb
16-05-2015, 11:03
I have a Console because I don't want to spent 80% of my time in setting up things. Unfortunately the consoles become more and more like pcs.

GAT_Montana
16-05-2015, 11:17
smoothherb....this was exactly what many people were asking for and what pCars was made for. Some will love it, some will hate it.... Unfortunatelly including all the disadvantages of a PC racing simulation...

K_Soze
16-05-2015, 11:37
Having FFB settings is exactly the opposite of a sim. In real world drivers can't set their wheel to have more rear wheel feedback or less center spring. A steering column is sending a torque to the wheel, period. All you can do is changing suspension and chassis parameters.

Settings == sim :rolleyes:

Sankyo
16-05-2015, 11:46
Seeing the latest postings over the last day or two, I'll repeat:
- The issues with Fanatec wheels on especially the PS4 are known and are being worked on right now. Especially the detection and lag/deadzone issues have already been addressed.
- The patch will be out as soon as the devs have finished fixing all issues and it has been approved. No need to ask every other day about it. As soon as there is any info, you'll know.

K_Soze
16-05-2015, 11:52
Nice ! Thanks a lot for the feedback. \o/

Gabba73
16-05-2015, 12:32
Seeing the latest postings over the last day or two, I'll repeat:
- The issues with Fanatec wheels on especially the PS4 are known and are being worked on right now. Especially the detection and lag/deadzone issues have already been addressed.
- The patch will be out as soon as the devs have finished fixing all issues and it has been approved. No need to ask every other day about it. As soon as there is any info, you'll know.

What about wheel disconnection and game crash (CE-34878-0 error) when play with wheel.
Do you know if also this issue as been identified and fixed?
Thanks in advance for your answer.

K_Soze
16-05-2015, 14:01
Just switch from Imperials to Metric -> The FFB becomes alive !!!! As a programmer I can imagine that when in imperials everything was scale down by the ratio 1 km / 1 miles but it seems so incredible that this could be possible than it is hard to beleive.

Pagani Zonda was as alive than a dead squid in imperials, it starts to become really good in metric !!!

memoric77
16-05-2015, 14:04
Off Topic: 24h nuerburgring live, just startet https://youtu.be/2FlLUU0edZ0

Sankyo
16-05-2015, 14:20
Just switch from Imperials to Metric -> The FFB becomes alive !!!! As a programmer I can imagine that when in imperials everything was scale down by the ratio 1 km / 1 miles but it seems so incredible that this could be possible than it is hard to beleive.

Pagani Zonda was as alive than a dead squid in imperials, it starts to become really good in metric !!!

Uh that's odd. I'll feed that back to the devs. Anyone else that can confirm this?

memoric77
16-05-2015, 14:24
I hope the devs found that out already by semselve!

K_Soze
16-05-2015, 14:37
I am 100% sure it makes a difference. In imperial my CSW V2 is almost unable to make my hands/arm move when I am holding the wheel. In metric, another story.

Edit: But would be happy to learn from other users that I am not Slightly Mad ;)

Davolaa919
16-05-2015, 14:51
I am 100% sure it makes a difference. In imperial my CSW V2 is almost unable to make my hands/arm move when I am holding the wheel. In metric, another story.

How do you change it? What menu on the game is that in? I'm desperate to play in the wheel to controller is doing my head in and also any ideas on how to stop the massive dead zone or is that gonna have to be lived with?

memoric77
16-05-2015, 15:05
How do you change it? What menu on the game is that in? I'm desperate to play in the wheel to controller is doing my head in and also any ideas on how to stop the massive dead zone or is that gonna have to be lived with?
try these, i use them:http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?21978-Fanatec-Wheel-support&p=896968&viewfull=1#post896968

Titzon Toast
16-05-2015, 15:06
I'm gonna try this out later on along with a workaround post earlier in this thread.
I can't stand not being able to play this game any longer!

fizbarl
16-05-2015, 15:39
I tried changing my settings from Imperial to Metric and I did not notice any difference. I am far from an expert, so I cant say that there is no difference, just that I could not detect any.

I am using a Fanatec GT3-RS, Jack Spade's Fy+SopLateral settings w/ deadzone set to 0 and FF at 100, wheel set at FF 100 and deadzone 0.

I can feel the force feedback and the road details, but it is faint at most all settings. I find that the only way to get some good FF resistance is to set the Master Scale and SopScale to 200. Even then this is not enough force to "rip the wheel from my hands" as I would expect with all of this set to the max. It is very playable like this, but obviously not correct.

Hope it helps, and can't wait for the steering and bug fixes!

K_Soze
16-05-2015, 15:56
I did revert the FFB settings to default once I discovered that FFB was strong enough in metric. Basic settings feel good to me.

Maybe this is changing something only for Clubsport V2 base, who knows ?

pover74
16-05-2015, 16:43
how do u change it from imperial to metric on ps4 thanks

GBRC.C7
16-05-2015, 17:11
I don't now really, it was talked about but I don't know if it's on the list to be added to the FFB effects.


I have a CSR and L2 R2 work for me. But can anyone tell me what can you tune? It seems all I can tune is tire pressure and brake bias and vents


I have just about had it with these companies! I swear this was a ploy to sell fanatec hardware. I dont have a good enough gpu on my pc to run pcars equivalent to ps4, plus all my friends are on there so i use ps4.
I sold my logitech g27 to buy the gt2 and csr elite pedal pack for the only reason being to play this game and possibly future ones. I have all the problems noted above and am very annoyed that ive wasted all this money on hardware that is either laggy or the deadzone is present no matter what you do with settings and it just feels laggy. Ive managed to change settings to get it to sync up with the wheel on screen but its way too sensitive, does anyone have settings that work well for the fanatec gt2?

While I am very disappointed with the state of the Fanatec support in particular at release and the very limited amount of testing that has obviously been undertaken for ps4 I don't for one minute think that SMS deliberately misinformed to increase Fanatec sales, it's clearly not in their interest.
SMS are supporting way more wheels on PS4 than any other studio to this point with unconfirmed rumours of future logitech support.

as stated I am disappointed with the lack of peripheral hardware ps4 testing pre release but understand the reasons behind this.

Bring on the patch in the coming weeks, I am starting to believe in SMS having read some of Ian Bells' comments on other threads here' name me another studio when the CEO actually posts on the forums!

Davolaa919
16-05-2015, 17:14
How do you change it to metric on ps4?

ford_racer
16-05-2015, 17:25
I don't know if this has been posted, but here's an issue I've run into.

When running a race, if I pause it, the force feedback changes. It seems as if the spring setting gets toggled off. If I pause it again, it comes back to where it was. As far as I can tell, it does this every single time I enter the pause menu while racing.

If anyone else has the same wheel I have, which is a CSR running elite pedals on 756 firmware and driver 205 64 bit, I'd sure appreciate you doing some testing to see if this is just on my end or if everyone has the same issue.

Nono
16-05-2015, 17:54
How do you change it to metric on ps4?


In ATH menu, no ?

K_Soze
16-05-2015, 18:05
Main page, hit R1 then at the right bottom enter Options, then first menu (realism) , hit R1, last line.

Nono
16-05-2015, 18:07
Uh that's odd. I'll feed that back to the devs. Anyone else that can confirm this?


I found the same information on GTPlanet forum here :
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanatec-and-ps4-troubleshooting-settings.328086/

K_Soze
16-05-2015, 18:16
I post it on both forum because I am more active on gtplanet forum.
Trying Kart right now and start to enjoy pCars. But still curious to hear about other CSW V2 owners.

Satans worm
16-05-2015, 19:35
I seem to have an even stranger issue.
Using a turbo s wheel I have taken the advise and used the menu with my controller, then after activating the Project cars icon on the dash board I turn on my turbo s wheel in pc mode, when it asks you to click X I push the button where the x should be( in pc mode nothing is alight) the screen then glitches, goes bright green, then eventually it loads.
However there seems no consistency to what I press on the wheel to what it does in the menu. After mashing buttons randomly, and the accelerator and brake, it started to load a time trial, then the indicator in the bottom right stopped and I found by pumping the accelerator it would load, but when I stopped the load stopped!
Eventually I was in but again to drive I had to keep moving the accelerator , and even then it glitches up and down the road.
I tried rebooting it twice with the same issues, with a normal controller it's fine.
Can anyone assist?
It would be nice just to have the dead zone issue like the rest of you at this stage!( which I do have as well:-) )

GBRC.C7
16-05-2015, 19:50
Bet you aren't running the latest firmware, the game lags and treats every button or pedal input almost as a frame click, move the wheel back and forth in the menus, smoother?
Update FW to latest and that issue should disappear. Read through the thread and you will understand a bit more.

Satans worm
16-05-2015, 20:11
Bet you aren't running the latest firmware, the game lags and treats every button or pedal input almost as a frame click, move the wheel back and forth in the menus, smoother?
Update FW to latest and that issue should disappear. Read through the thread and you will understand a bit more.

Thanks I'll give the firmware an update, although I thought it did have the latest but maybe they recently released an upgrade:-/

Titzon Toast
16-05-2015, 20:44
Lads, come somebody point me in the direction of some good in-game deadzone settings to try out on my Turbo-S please?
I'm a bit lost here!
Thank you.

fbetes
16-05-2015, 21:54
Lads, come somebody point me in the direction of some good in-game deadzone settings to try out on my Turbo-S please?
I'm a bit lost here!
Thank you.

I have the same wheel. Several pages earlier I posted my configuration:


My workaround to have a "decent" FFB in the game (reducing the dead zone) with my Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S (idem with GT2 and GT3 I suppose):

-Game: reduce the dead zone to 0 (1º default when you load the game)

-Wheel: decrease your SEN = 420º / DRI = 2 or 3 (it's your choice) / SPR = 2 / DPR = 4

READY, enjoy the game!!!! There is a minimum dead zone but the game is more playable...

Sorry for my english

PD: if you drive a Formula A you should decrease the angle to 380º aprox. The most important is increase/decrease the SEN MENU from your wheel (not in the game)

LexUlanov
16-05-2015, 21:56
Lads, come somebody point me in the direction of some good in-game deadzone settings to try out on my Turbo-S please?
I'm a bit lost here!
Thank you.

I got 911 Turbo S to. Just finished my first 6 hours of the game.
The problem with dead zones , I decided in the steering wheel adjustment.
I just changed the momentum wheel 900 degrees to 720!
That's all!!! Reduced to 720 degrees , don't lost sensitivity and got a great result . The game became more comfortable .

Titzon Toast
16-05-2015, 22:11
I got 911 Turbo S to. Just finished my first 6 hours of the game.
The problem with dead zones , I decided in the steering wheel adjustment.
I just changed the momentum wheel 900 degrees to 720!
That's all!!! Reduced to 720 degrees , don't lost sensitivity and got a great result . The game became more comfortable .

Thank you very much, I was actually talking about in-game steering sensitivty and deadzones etc. I found some on GTplanet and dialed in whatever other recommendations I found online.
I finally got some laps in around Laguna Seca, Brno, and Senoma/Infineon.
Obviously being recognised as a controller and without proper calibration it certainly wasn't perfect, but I still absolutely loved it!
I reckon this is gonna be the best console racer ever made if SMS can fix it.
God I hope they can...

Sankyo
17-05-2015, 08:59
I am 100% sure it makes a difference. In imperial my CSW V2 is almost unable to make my hands/arm move when I am holding the wheel. In metric, another story.

Edit: But would be happy to learn from other users that I am not Slightly Mad ;)

Did you switch back and forth to confirm that the issue can be reproduced?

K_Soze
17-05-2015, 10:53
Yes I did because I wanted to be sure of what I was feeling. I did check with the Pagani Huyara. I still have the feeling the in imperial the FFB is scaled down.

I did back and forth because I was thinking that maybe changing an option was creating a new file that could have initialized some variables with different values that the default one.

I mean it could be possible that by default a variable FFB-master-scale is set to 0.5 and than the first time you save a file, the variable is overridden with 1.0.

I still want to find a way to prove it but as it is all about feeling, it is not easy.

Fong74
17-05-2015, 11:08
Did you switch back and forth to confirm that the issue can be reproduced?

Changed it 4x forth and back to Repro this. No difference with my Setup tbh.

K_Soze
17-05-2015, 11:33
As we have exactly the same setup it means it may have improved once for all. Something I notice while thinking about this is now I haven't got the strange behavior when stopped (imperial/metric) where the wheel was impossible to turn.

Do you experience the wheel almost locked when stopped and giving violent input when trying to make a ten degrees rotation? I had that behavior before I did some tweaking but not anymore.

Fanatest
17-05-2015, 11:46
As we have exactly the same setup it means it may have improved once for all. Something I notice while thinking about this is now I haven't got the strange behavior when stopped (imperial/metric) where the wheel was impossible to turn.

Do you experience the wheel almost locked when stopped and giving violent input when trying to make a ten degrees rotation? I had that behavior before I did some tweaking but not anymore.

Hey K,

That's a very interesting statement and one that's got me wanting to work on a Sunday ;)

As this bug was one of the first bugs I found on the PS4 version of PCars, I'm very interested in testing this potential fix. I will test this tomorrow and see if changing said settings does indeed remove the effect when stationary.

Interestingly, I have found a few occasions like this, where upon making a seemingly insignificant change, stops a bug from ever appearing again, even IF you default back to the old config (where the bug was originally recreate-able).

It's as if the settings are (once written to the save file) no longer causing the bug to appear? As if the original file is corrupt, or if the opinion is missing/not present/unfilled is what's causing the bug to exist initially. (If that makes sense)

A very interesting find if it works ;)

K_Soze
17-05-2015, 12:07
Yes it totally makes sense for me (have experienced this kind of bug a zillion times during my fifteen years career in video games).

Code construct objects with a default value that is not the same as when initialized using a config file.

Terry_T
17-05-2015, 16:41
Thanks Whoosier girl that works for me to

VBR
17-05-2015, 18:05
Seeing the latest postings over the last day or two, I'll repeat:
- The issues with Fanatec wheels on especially the PS4 are known and are being worked on right now. Especially the detection and lag/deadzone issues have already been addressed.
- The patch will be out as soon as the devs have finished fixing all issues and it has been approved. No need to ask every other day about it. As soon as there is any info, you'll know.


Thanks for the reassurance! Nice to know that you guys are aware of it & working on it.

:)

Terry_T
17-05-2015, 19:05
Been playing with wheel set ups to work around deadzone on Fanatec Porche 911GT3 whl and the best I have got that is ok for me is on wheel sen 240. ff 070. sho 100. dri 002.spr 0. dpr 0. then in game mastescale 150. armangle 2000. Vehicle steering ratio 8.4:1 This wont be good for everyone but give it a try.

GBRC.C7
17-05-2015, 19:55
The 'heavy steering' & kickback at standstill I find interesting though I've not experienced it in game (fanatec Gt3 wheel).

I'm sure there is a FFB problem but while out in my (real) Caterham today a thought crossed my mind while parking -
My Se7en has a 10" dia momo wheel, 1.98 turns lock to lock unassisted rack and I am currently running Toyo 888 medium compound 'E' marked (road legal) 185 mm wide at the front.
My steering in in the real world is proper elbows and shoulders at walking pace and below but once on the move comes alive and I can drive the car with fingertips.

I suspect that SMS are modeling this behaviour but there is some other relic that is giving the kickback which of course is not realistic.

K_Soze
17-05-2015, 22:06
I was about to share my thoughts about my new tires on my sporty Honda Odyssey. Almost the same feeling about the steering...


Lucky you :)

Titzon Toast
17-05-2015, 22:14
It has absolutely nothing to do with the problems we're describing with our wheels at standstill though in all fairness.
Heavy steering at very low speed is one thing, your wheel snatching violently if you touch it is another!

gotdirt410sprintcar
18-05-2015, 00:54
My question is I just bought a fanatech gt3 rs. will g27 pedals work with the wheel on ps4

lazpete
18-05-2015, 05:00
I got rid of the heavy stearing and snatching at low speed by setting spring to off on the wheel (csr)

GBRC.C7
18-05-2015, 05:31
My question is I just bought a fanatech gt3 rs. will g27 pedals work with the wheel on ps4
As long as the g27 pedals are plugged into the gt3 with the Fanatec adapter they should work, you are going to have all the same problems until the patch comes though.
You will need this adapter http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/pedals-accessories/adaptor-for-g25-and-microsoft-xbox360-wheel-pedals-eu.html

gotdirt410sprintcar
18-05-2015, 06:20
yeah it comes with the adapter, and the wheel is not here yet so maybe it will be fixed by then. thanks for the response

gotdirt410sprintcar
18-05-2015, 06:40
As long as the g27 pedals are plugged into the gt3 with the Fanatec adapter they should work, you are going to have all the same problems until the patch comes though.
You will need this adapter http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/pedals-accessories/adaptor-for-g25-and-microsoft-xbox360-wheel-pedals-eu.html
So how does the wheel feel so far, good feed back or nothing at all? I was thinking this was the cheaper way to go I just hope this wheel is as good as my g27 or better I want to feel everything this game has to offer as far as what the car is doing. I guess that's why they have all the FFB settings for us to really tune the feel in when its fixed lol

GBRC.C7
18-05-2015, 06:46
Read through this thread! In short though there are feedback and deadzone issues, these are being addressed and will be patched.
Keep and eye here for updates, that's what I'm doing.

DerrickHUN
18-05-2015, 13:25
Porsche Gt2 wheel with 756 firmware, problems summary:

- recognised as "turbos S wheel" but like a controller (by my hot lap times, there are controller icon)
- there is no wheel, FFB calibrate option in the controlls menu, recognised directions like "analog sticks"
- every time quiting the game, reset the settings, so don't save the controlls settings (others: audio, video etc. yes)
- don't save the car's tuning settings
- L1 / R1 (wheel shifters) in the menus once works, once not (on track is perfect)
- pit engineer always talking from controller, unable put it to headphones
- every second liveries can be choose with the D-pad
- gas pedal (R2) once activate itself without touching it, once not (hard to navigate in menus, hard to brake in game)
- gas pedal with no deadzone is only 80% by full throttle, with 30 deadzone is 100% by full throttle
- FFB and rumble effects is not so strong even at 100% like in other racing games
- after firmware update I don't have steering deadzone problems (only with gas pedal)

Anyway: Project CARS the best simulator in consoles, but waiting the "fanatec patch" !!

LexUlanov
18-05-2015, 13:44
- gas pedal (R2) once activate itself without touching it, once not (hard to navigate in menus, hard to brake in game)
- gas pedal with no deadzone is only 80% by full throttle, with 30 deadzone is 100% by full throttle


Maybe the problem is mechanical failure in pedal? I have all these problems, but not with the pedal.
Try to make out the pedal box, clean the dust inside, check the spring and the sensor.

Nono
18-05-2015, 15:09
- gas pedal (R2) once activate itself without touching it, once not (hard to navigate in menus, hard to brake in game)
- gas pedal with no deadzone is only 80% by full throttle, with 30 deadzone is 100% by full throttle


Anyway: Project CARS the best simulator in consoles, but waiting the "fanatec patch" !!


It seems like a sensor problème with your gas pedal, I think. Try with an other game to test it, or plug it on pc. It just arrived to me, 24€ in on Fanatec website for both sensors (gas ans clutch) ;o)

Fong74
18-05-2015, 15:47
As we have exactly the same setup it means it may have improved once for all. Something I notice while thinking about this is now I haven't got the strange behavior when stopped (imperial/metric) where the wheel was impossible to turn.

Do you experience the wheel almost locked when stopped and giving violent input when trying to make a ten degrees rotation? I had that behavior before I did some tweaking but not anymore.

This behaviour is gone since some weeks in general. It was changed during the beta phase (dont remember the reason anymore unfortunately). Before this change you stopped the car and had to impose a very huge amount of power to turn the wheel. Once the cars wheels started rolling the resistance reduced gradually. Very realistic when I think of those huge slicks you have on a GT3 car e.g. BTW the resistance was lower when you stopped on gras or gravel...

However, when you stop now, the resistance is gone completely. Once the car starts rolling the whole FFb sets in.

I remember that a switch back to the initial hard-to-turn-while-stopped behaviour was planned.

Please correct me if Im wrong, Remco, Fanatest etc...

Titzon Toast
18-05-2015, 16:51
This behaviour is gone since some weeks in general. It was changed during the beta phase (dont remember the reason anymore unfortunately). Before this change you stopped the car and had to impose a very huge amount of power to turn the wheel. Once the cars wheels started rolling the resistance reduced gradually. Very realistic when I think of those huge slicks you have on a GT3 car e.g. BTW the resistance was lower when you stopped on gras or gravel...

However, when you stop now, the resistance is gone completely. Once the car starts rolling the whole FFb sets in.

I remember that a switch back to the initial hard-to-turn-while-stopped behaviour was planned.

Please correct me if Im wrong, Remco, Fanatest etc...

That behaviour is not gone for me anyway. It's exactly as tthe poster above described.
When I'm at a full stop and go to turn my wheel it snatches violently in the direction I'm attempting to turn it in.
It's definitely a bug, if it happened in your real life car you'd have a serious problem on your hands!

GBRC.C7
18-05-2015, 19:13
I think that SMS are trying to replicate real world behaviour here (and that's a 1st for any sim in my experience) it's just not right yet and there are some kickback issues presenting themselves at present. I hope the patch fixes them but any car at standstill SHOULD have heavy steering in a true simulation and only become light once above walking pace, the vehicles weight and steering geometry create this.
If SMS can get this right it will be truly groundbreaking IMHO fingers crossed that they do and at the same time manage to remove the current click back problems.
I'm holding judgement for now pending the patch, but, if they can get it right the feedback will be on a different plane to anything I've felt outside of a real car.

Looking at the recent posts the team seem to have a great understanding, now I'm waiting for them to deliver.

I however have faith they will.

Fanatest
18-05-2015, 19:24
I think that SMS are trying to replicate real world behaviour here (and that's a 1st for any sim in my experience) it's just not right yet and there are some kickback issues presenting themselves at present. I hope the patch fixes them but any car at standstill SHOULD have heavy steering in a true simulation and only become light once above walking pace, the vehicles weight and steering geometry create this.
If SMS can get this right it will be truly groundbreaking IMHO fingers crossed that they do and at the same time manage to remove the current click back problems.
I'm holding judgement for now pending the patch, but, if they can get it right the feedback will be on a different place to end thing I've felt outside of a real car.

Looking at the recent posts the team seem to have a great understanding, now I'm waiting for them to deliver.

I however have faith they will.

Hi,

It's not a "heavy wheel at stand still" that's being experienced here.
I can confirm that the issue I reported, experienced and logged is NOT present in any other version of the game.

This is not an emulation of real life, it's not realistic and it's definitely a fault with the FFB in PCars.

I'll (maybe) post a video for you to see the issue being discussed, however I'm concerned that doing this to my hardware again, could potentially damage it.

The wheel violently judders, shakes, rattles, jerks and snaps in all directions (while you vehicle is stationary) and at full force! This occurs when you try to move your front wheels even by a cm in any given direction.

If your "actual" vehicle is doing in this real life, I suggest you kill it before it kills you ;)

Cristian
18-05-2015, 19:24
My Fanatec Clubsport Wheel Base V2 Bmw m3 gt2 wheel cannot navigate the screen options.
Buttonss R1 and L1 (or L2 and R2... I don't remember which was the case) are not recognized. Hence, I cannot navigate the screens of wheel calibration?
Also imposible to set up car with the engineer.
pS4 controller cannot be used at he same time, which might be a good turn around.
Abs bivration doesnt work on pedals Clubsport v2...
Anyone help?
Thank you!

flatspunout
18-05-2015, 19:40
Just playing devil's advocate as I own a CSR...why are motionless vehicle FFB effects so important? I mean...it's a racing sim not a mall parking lot sim...

GBRC.C7
18-05-2015, 19:41
Hi,

It's not a "heavy wheel at stand still" that's being experienced here.
I can confirm that the issue I reported, experienced and logged is NOT present in any other version of the game.

This is not an emulation of real life, it's not realistic and it's definitely a fault with the FFB in PCars.

I'll (maybe) post a video for you to see the issue being discussed, however I'm concerned that doing this to my hardware again, could potentially damage it.

The wheel violently judders, shakes, rattles, jerks and snaps in all directions (while you vehicle is stationary) and at full force! This occurs when you try to move your front wheels even by a cm in any given direction.

If your "actual" vehicle is doing in this real life, I suggest you kill it before it kills you ;)

Guys I am not doubting what you are experiencing with problems, and certainly wouldn't advocate reproducing a problem to capture it on video if you feel that it would be likely to damage your hardware.

My point is that any car, power assisted steering or not has very heavy steering at standstill.

This is generally not represented and my view is that SMS are trying to represent this albeit with some serious issues at present.

GBRC.C7
18-05-2015, 19:45
Just playing devil's advocate as I own a CSR...why are motionless vehicle FFB effects so important? I mean...it's a racing sim not a mall parking lot sim...

Because when a car is stationary the steering IS heavy in the real world, if PCARS is a sim not a game that should be replicated, and if the physics engine is what we have been lead to believe then it replicates the real world. Not just the real world above (insert the speed of your choise here) 20 miles per hour.

Edit to add:-

If the physics at 0 mph are not important how does the tyre and physics model a standing start with any accuracy, just like almost every other game where the physics don't work below 3mph, or 5, or 2 etc. etc.....

Linx
18-05-2015, 20:19
Just playing devil's advocate as I own a CSR...why are motionless vehicle FFB effects so important? I mean...it's a racing sim not a mall parking lot sim...
My concern is that my wheel doesnt break. At standstill if slightly pushed will put wheel at full lock, full FFB force with FFB motors pushing.

GBRC.C7
18-05-2015, 20:29
I have a GT3RS and don't have the issue you are describing, I have a huge deadzone and have therefore decided not to use the wheel until the patch comes.
I don't for a moment doubt that the issue of huge force and kickback while stationary exists nor am I saying that this is correct. If I was experiencing these issues and felt my wheel was at risk of damage I wouldn't use it until a fix was announced.
As stated I'm not using mine, and therefore not playing the game I bought, as the deadzone issue regardless of feedback is wrong and therefore not worth me bothering to ruin my experience of something I am sure will be brilliant once sorted. My anticipation of what the game will be once fixed is undiminished however, I therfore at the moment am monitoring this thread awaiting a patch.

Titzon Toast
18-05-2015, 22:46
Hi,

It's not a "heavy wheel at stand still" that's being experienced here.
I can confirm that the issue I reported, experienced and logged is NOT present in any other version of the game.

This is not an emulation of real life, it's not realistic and it's definitely a fault with the FFB in PCars.

I'll (maybe) post a video for you to see the issue being discussed, however I'm concerned that doing this to my hardware again, could potentially damage it.

The wheel violently judders, shakes, rattles, jerks and snaps in all directions (while you vehicle is stationary) and at full force! This occurs when you try to move your front wheels even by a cm in any given direction.

If your "actual" vehicle is doing in this real life, I suggest you kill it before it kills you ;)
Thank you, exactly what I was trying to say. Some people just won't listen!
Good to have you aboard.

mpeixoto
19-05-2015, 01:14
What about wheel disconnection and game crash (CE-34878-0 error) when play with wheel.
Do you know if also this issue as been identified and fixed?
Thanks in advance for your answer.

Yesterday I played a lot. Using Fanatec CSR with CSR Elite pedals, firmware 756, ACL Off on my PS4. I had to change the clutch button to be able to drive, otherwise the clutch was always engaged and despite the RPM increases, the car wouldn't roll out. With ACL on, L1 and R1 didn't work.

But today I couldn't play at all. The wheel disconnected all the time. Sometimes the control come back and I could press X again. But most times the game crashed and the only thing I could was turn PS4 off and try again. All retries were unsuccessfully, though.
I think I will put the game aside for a while or until the next update.

flatspunout
19-05-2015, 01:49
Because when a car is stationary the steering IS heavy in the real world, if PCARS is a sim not a game that should be replicated, and if the physics engine is what we have been lead to believe then it replicates the real world. Not just the real world above (insert the speed of your choise here) 20 miles per hour.

Edit to add:-

If the physics at 0 mph are not important how does the tyre and physics model a standing start with any accuracy, just like almost every other game where the physics don't work below 3mph, or 5, or 2 etc. etc.....

I did some testing in my real car and virtual car tonight, a Honda Accord coupe and a BMW Z4 GT3 (from the outhouse to the penthouse right?) respectively. Both cars have power steering so turning the wheel at a standstill is easy, and it stays where I let go of it then returns to center as I accelerate. Your issue sounds like settings/hardware as opposed to incorrect FFB/physics.

Fong74
19-05-2015, 06:05
Guys I am not doubting what you are experiencing with problems, and certainly wouldn't advocate reproducing a problem to capture it on video if you feel that it would be likely to damage your hardware.

My point is that any car, power assisted steering or not has very heavy steering at standstill.

This is generally not represented and my view is that SMS are trying to represent this albeit with some serious issues at present.

Exactly. I was not talking about the "violently judders, shakes, rattles, jerks and snaps in all directions" behaviour either as I didnt experience it so far. Will try later if I can repro this (hoping not to damage anything). I just wanted to explain the history/evolution of standstill FFb throughout the last few months of the beta phase.

Which wheels are affected by this violent judder at standstill issue? Really all Fanatecs?

lethaLEEkill
19-05-2015, 06:21
when are we going to get some "official" word on a patch for porche branded fanatec wheels, its been almost 2 weeks now!:mad: Between the game recognising our wheels as controllers and the random gear shifting, this has probably been the most infuriating game release i have ever experienced in my 30 years+ time as a gamer! please sort it out soon!!!

Fong74
19-05-2015, 06:46
If you call this the most infuriating game release then you oviously did not play GT5 and GT6 e.g. (not to mention Forza 5 with its very limited content at launch). It took PD months to patch the game to a useful state...

Anyhooo, an official info concerning a targeted release date for the first patch would really be nice. This would at least make waiting easier.

As this is a multiplatform title, the process for releasing a patch takes a bit longer due to the console manufacturers and their QA. SMS/WMD want to release one patch for all versions (concerning the content) as far as I understood it.

Sankyo
19-05-2015, 06:52
This behaviour is gone since some weeks in general. It was changed during the beta phase (dont remember the reason anymore unfortunately). Before this change you stopped the car and had to impose a very huge amount of power to turn the wheel. Once the cars wheels started rolling the resistance reduced gradually. Very realistic when I think of those huge slicks you have on a GT3 car e.g. BTW the resistance was lower when you stopped on gras or gravel...

However, when you stop now, the resistance is gone completely. Once the car starts rolling the whole FFb sets in.

I remember that a switch back to the initial hard-to-turn-while-stopped behaviour was planned.

Please correct me if Im wrong, Remco, Fanatest etc...
The heavy steering at standstill has been changed silently, it now uses the FFB spring force (with moving center, so no centering spring but just a heavy wheel). That means that if you have set SPr to zero on your wheel, the effect won't work. It is recommended now to have SPr enabled. On a CSW v2, setting it to 100 may be a little too much, I have it at 40 which gives a nice resistance.

Just to be sure so that people start complaining about 'arcade' spring forces: this spring force is not a centering spring, just a resistance.

Fong74
19-05-2015, 07:02
Thanks a lot for clarifying this, Remco. Will set Spr to a value other then OFF.

lethaLEEkill
19-05-2015, 07:29
If you call this the most infuriating game release then you oviously did not play GT5 and GT6 e.g. (not to mention Forza 5 with its very limited content at launch). It took PD months to patch the game to a useful state...

Anyhooo, an official info concerning a targeted release date for the first patch would really be nice. This would at least make waiting easier.

As this is a multiplatform title, the process for releasing a patch takes a bit longer due to the console manufacturers and their QA. SMS/WMD want to release one patch for all versions (concerning the content) as far as I understood it.

your wheel is recognised as a wheel! so unless you have used a cronusmax and wheel on xbone or ps4 (before this game), you probably dont understand what it feels like, its impossible to counter steer! i have no confidence pushing too hard through corners in fear of having anykind of tail drift as it's near impossible to bring it back straight without fish tailing up the road or spinning out.

Linx
19-05-2015, 07:40
So today when I got home I decided to try some different settings. Jack Spades settings weren't working for me as it made my wheel very loose with minimal FFB, but I just tried it with a kart and nothing else, so I don't know. Anyways I've been watching the Fanatec forum as well and came across this http://www.fanatec.com/forum/discussion/153/fanatec-on-playstation-4-and-xbox-one/p6
Someone with a username of Pedro Ramos posted some settings that work very well for me and it also ALMOST eliminated the out of control wheel at stops. I wish the posts were numbered but since they aren't the best way I can point it out is if you scroll down, someone else posted screenshots comparing PS4 and PC settings. A few posts before that one is the posting by Pedro Ramos. I tried it and so far it works best for me. And the issue with the violent wheel has gone away. Every once in a while I might get it but it's nowhere near as bad as how it has been. Give it a try and see if it works for you. And if Pedro Ramos is reading this, thank you very much man.

Fong74
19-05-2015, 07:47
your wheel is recognised as a wheel! so unless you have used a cronusmax and wheel on xbone or ps4 (before this game), you probably dont understand what it feels like, its impossible to counter steer! i have no confidence pushing too hard through corners in fear of having anykind of tail drift as it's near impossible to bring it back straight without fish tailing up the road or spinning out.

I sympathise completely and cross my fingers for you guys getting all wheel issues removed very soon :semi-twins:

The release is criticized by some ppl in general. I think it was not that bad compared to others especially when taking into account that this is an indie title developed by a rather small team and which utilized a community approach used for the first time when it comes to a multi plattform title. Some multi million, single platform race titles had more painful releases overall imho

Fong74
19-05-2015, 08:01
Here are my settings I use currently:

Wheel: Fanatec CSW V2/CSP/BMW GT2
Wheel-Settings:
SEN OFF, FF 100, SHO 100, ABS 65 (no effect so far in pCARS/PS4), LIN OFF, dEA OFF, DrI 3, For 100, SPr OFF (any value other than that gives you a "heavy wheel" at stand still), dPr OFF

InGame Options - Controllers - Configuration:
All dead zones (steering, throttle, brake, clutch) 0
Alle dampings (steering, throttle, brake, clutch) 50
Force Feedback 100
All other options default

InGame Options - Controllers - Force Feedback Calibration:
Tire Force 110
Relative Adjust Gain 112
Relative Adjust Bleed 100
Relative Adjust Clamp 98
All other options Default

InGame - Car-Setup - Force Feedback:
Master Scale 52 (reduce this if the FFb is too strong for you, 26 is the default here)
Fx Scale 106
Fy Scale 102
Fz Scale 104
All other options Default

lethaLEEkill
19-05-2015, 08:06
I sympathise completely and cross my fingers for you guys getting all wheel issues removed very soon :semi-twins:

The release is criticized by some ppl in general. I think it was not that bad compared to others especially when taking into account that this is an indie title developed by a rather small team and which utilized a community approach used for the first time when it comes to a multi plattform title. Some multi million, single platform race titles had more painful releases overall imho

think i'll play the witcher now until it is patched anyway. :nonchalance:

Titzon Toast
19-05-2015, 08:10
your wheel is recognised as a wheel! so unless you have used a cronusmax and wheel on xbone or ps4 (before this game), you probably dont understand what it feels like, its impossible to counter steer! i have no confidence pushing too hard through corners in fear of having anykind of tail drift as it's near impossible to bring it back straight without fish tailing up the road or spinning out.

This.
Unfortunately, this.

memoric77
19-05-2015, 09:55
I've tested a number of settings and posted already here. Yesterday I found out that many
changes were unnecessary because the dead zone depends mainly on the controller filtering
adjustment. Defaul is 0, at 100, the dead zone is no longer available. In addition, the value SPR is involved in the steering wheel to the dead zone to eliminate additional. I set it to 3. Dead zone for the steering i use is 0, sensitivity to 100.

In addition I use force feedlback in the car setup 100-120, SEN value on the steering wheel about 580, the rest I leave -after much testing- on default. With these settings I can drive at least, but would of course like to go as it was "designed" for.

Sometimes I can feel the ff at the curbs, but only very slightly and irregularly-the "heavy
wheel" occurs to me also. I once had the effect that I have turned off the steering wheel during the game, the game does not crash and after switching on again ABS vibration in the steering wheel could be felt. so far this is not again succeeded since the turn usually after renewed
crashes the game.

Thank you Google Translate :)

GAT_Montana
19-05-2015, 11:12
think i'll play the witcher now until it is patched anyway. :nonchalance:

Have fun with the most stupid Horse animation I've ever seen...from behind it looks like an unprofessional model what is trying to shaking her too big ass to look sexy.....could be funny if it would not be to sad for such a high class game. Assassins Creed is dooing a much better Job in this respect, so Keep playing pCars and look at the ass of a Por...I mean RUF. Much more impressive at all :D

Linx
19-05-2015, 15:32
Well they finally gave an official announcement. Too bad it's not for us though. I'm wondering if we're on the back burner. But maybe this gives some more hope. http://wccftech.com/slightly-mad-studios-issues-official-statement-project-cars-amd-graphics-cards/

Slicker_VR
19-05-2015, 15:36
I've tested a number of settings and posted already here. Yesterday I found out that many
changes were unnecessary because the dead zone depends mainly on the controller filtering
adjustment. Defaul is 0, at 100, the dead zone is no longer available. In addition, the value SPR is involved in the steering wheel to the dead zone to eliminate additional. I set it to 3. Dead zone for the steering i use is 0, sensitivity to 100.

In addition I use force feedlback in the car setup 100-120, SEN value on the steering wheel about 580, the rest I leave -after much testing- on default. With these settings I can drive at least, but would of course like to go as it was "designed" for.

Sometimes I can feel the ff at the curbs, but only very slightly and irregularly-the "heavy
wheel" occurs to me also. I once had the effect that I have turned off the steering wheel during the game, the game does not crash and after switching on again ABS vibration in the steering wheel could be felt. so far this is not again succeeded since the turn usually after renewed
crashes the game.

Thank you Google Translate :)

i have turned fz and mz up to 200 on each car, most other settings default - can now feel the kerbs

nerve-pain
19-05-2015, 17:13
Just wondering,is there a way to use your sequential shifter instead of the paddle shifters? I'm using the fanatec CSR wheel/CSR elite pedals,also I notice my car will kinda sway side to side on a straight,anyone know of a fix hopefully? (updated wheel with the new 756 firmware as well)

nerve-pain
19-05-2015, 17:14
I'm on ps4 not PC gotta change that platform indicator

Doodle
19-05-2015, 19:49
Sorry for the noobish question, but how do I set the Porsche 911 GT3 RS V2 to PC mode? I'm so confused as there's no dedicated button and I looked all over the internet for an answer and found nothing.

geb69
19-05-2015, 20:29
I have the same wheel with Clubsport Pedals V1!

Manual:
http://www.fanatec.com/download/PWGT3RSV2-Manual.pdf

At first make sure you have firmware 756 in the wheel!!!
http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/racing-wheels/porsche-911-gt3-rs-v2-wheel-eu.html
Upgrade instructions are in the download-zip as pdf!

The wheel is already and always in PC Mode after turning it on with the power switch!

Start the game with the DS4 from the menu and exactly when press X appears you press the X button ON THE WHEEL (on the right side of the wheel the bottom left button).
After that you have to do everything with the wheel since the DS4 is deactivated (only works on some ps4 dialogs).
To navigate the menu you need the directional pad, the shifter paddles on the back of the wheel and also brake and gas!

Then look for the in game controller and on wheel options posted above here (from memoric77!)

Since the wheel is not detected correctly it will not work perfectly and we have to live with that until the next patch!
But you already can drive and get some FFB from it ;-)

memoric77
19-05-2015, 20:34
when you turn it on, it's in PC mode automatically.

Doodle
19-05-2015, 20:48
when you turn it on, it's in PC mode automatically.

But then why won't my Fanatec get recognized by the game? I have all the latest firmware and drivers downloaded. Surely I must be doing something wrong then in the setup process?

memoric77
19-05-2015, 20:56
But then why won't my Fanatec get recognized by the game? I have all the latest firmware and drivers downloaded. Surely I must be doing something wrong then in the setup process?

before i start the game i connect the wheel to the ps4 usb Port. as mentioned above you habe to press the x Button on the wheel when it appears on the screen. have the same hardware and firmware like you.

nerve-pain
19-05-2015, 21:05
Is there a way to use your shifter instead of the paddles on the CSR?

memoric77
19-05-2015, 21:09
Is there a way to use your shifter instead of the paddles on the CSR?

with my GT3 v2 and fw756 it's no problem to use it

Doodle
19-05-2015, 21:15
Start the game with the DS4 from the menu and exactly when press X appears you press the X button ON THE WHEEL (on the right side of the wheel the bottom left button).
After that you have to do everything with the wheel since the DS4 is deactivated (only works on some ps4 dialogs)

Thanks for this, but for some reason when I press X on the wheel nothing happens. What did I do wrong?

WhoosierGirl
19-05-2015, 21:36
Sorry for the noobish question, but how do I set the Porsche 911 GT3 RS V2 to PC mode? I'm so confused as there's no dedicated button and I looked all over the internet for an answer and found nothing.

I have the same wheel Doodle, first turn your wheel on and then chose Project Cars from your PS4 menu using your DS4. Project cars will load and show the beginning credits, when it gets to the start screen plug your wheel into the USB port and a lower case "n" will show up on the wheel display. The wheel is now recognized by the game, now push the PS button on you DS4 and Quick Menu will pop up. Open Adjust Sound and Devises and go to the bottom and turn off the DS4, Project Cars will then load and you can use your wheel.

Your wheel will show as a Fanatec 911 Turbo wheel and unfortunately can not open all the wheel adjusting menus as of now.

Doodle
19-05-2015, 21:45
I have the same wheel Doodle, first turn your wheel on and then chose Project Cars from your PS4 menu using your DS4. Project cars will load and show the beginning credits, when it gets to the start screen plug your wheel into the USB port and a lower case "n" will show up on the wheel display. The wheel is now recognized by the game, now push the PS button on you DS4 and Quick Menu will pop up. Open Adjust Sound and Devises and go to the bottom and turn off the DS4, Project Cars will then load and you can use your wheel.

Your wheel will show as a Fanatec 911 Turbo wheel and unfortunately can not open all the wheel adjusting menus as of now.

Thanks. But when I get to the start menu, I just get three red dashes on the wheel display rather than an "n". I'm not sure what I did wrong?

WhoosierGirl
19-05-2015, 22:02
Thanks. But when I get to the start menu, I just get three red dashes on the wheel display rather than an "n". I'm not sure what I did wrong?

Did you turn the wheel on with the USB unhooked? Try this; With the USB unplugged turn the wheel off then turn it back on, it should spin to calibrate and three dashes show up. Press the little button on the right in the display window and go to S_2. Then start the game and follow the steps I posted, remembering not to plug the USB in until you see the start screen with the image of the race car driver. I can post a picture of that screen if you need.

Doodle
19-05-2015, 22:12
Did you turn the wheel on with the USB unhooked? Try this; With the USB unplugged turn the wheel off then turn it back on, it should spin to calibrate and three dashes show up. Press the little button on the right in the display window and go to S_2. Then start the game and follow the steps I posted, remembering not to plug the USB in until you see the start screen with the image of the race car driver. I can post a picture of that screen if you need.


I turned the wheel with the USB unplugged. I tried going to S_2 and then followed the steps, but still no "n" shows up. This is really starting to concern me.

WhoosierGirl
19-05-2015, 22:50
I turned the wheel with the USB unplugged. I tried going to S_2 and then followed the steps, but still no "n" shows up. This is really starting to concern me.

Does the wheel shake a little when you plug it in while at the start screen? The only way my wheel doesn't work is if I use the start screen on the XMB menu of the game. If I hit then Project Cars icon in the game selection menu it takes me to the opening credits of the game and then the in-game start page. That is where I plug in the wheel and disconnect the DS4 from, I get a little shake out of the wheel and the little n for neutral pops up.

nerve-pain
19-05-2015, 23:28
with my GT3 v2 and fw756 it's no problem to use it

For some reason with the regular CSR,it only let's me shift to 2nd gear no higher,but when I'm using the paddles,I can downshift all the way from the highest gear with the shifter....

Sik180sx
19-05-2015, 23:38
I turned the wheel with the USB unplugged. I tried going to S_2 and then followed the steps, but still no "n" shows up. This is really starting to concern me.

After the wheel boots up and has the three dashes,you have to hold the back/select button on the wheel,it should be the button on your left side under the d-pad,which how you put it into pc mode

Terriblewone
19-05-2015, 23:41
I have the same deadzone issues with my Turbo S that everyone has been reporting. My CS shifter also seems to glitch out a lot and change into the wrong gear. This is not an issue with the shifter or the wheel calibration as it works 100% perfectly back on Forza. Please for the love of god I hope they patch this ASAP. The wait for this game was painful and I had ordered a CS shifter just for this game! Never the less I want to thank you all (the posters in this forum ) for all your insights and hard work trying to figure out how to solve these issues.

killer2293
19-05-2015, 23:53
I have the same deadzone issues with my Turbo S that everyone has been reporting. My CS shifter also seems to glitch out a lot and change into the wrong gear. This is not an issue with the shifter or the wheel calibration as it works 100% perfectly back on Forza. Please for the love of god I hope they patch this ASAP. The wait for this game was painful and I had ordered a CS shifter just for this game! Never the less I want to thank you all (the posters in this forum ) for all your insights and hard work trying to figure out how to solve these issues.

Excellent post. I can deal with a lot of the force feedback stuff because of the helpful information contained in this forum. What I need is a patch to fix dead zone. It is hard to race when you have a dead zone interfering with the control of the car.

RAVEracer
20-05-2015, 01:41
Is it worth updating the firmware? Will it need to be updated anyway after the patch?

killer2293
20-05-2015, 01:59
Is it worth updating the firmware? Will it need to be updated anyway after the patch?

Yes you should update firmware. I own a GT2 and it has been on the same firmware for a while now.

x1avation
20-05-2015, 03:50
So I have not tryed to the ps3 mode on my gt2. Will my h pattern shifter work now if I do so. I only have ran it in pc mode. Are do I have to watch for a patch?so it will at least show my wheel so I can calibrate it .

geb69
20-05-2015, 06:00
I haven't disconnected my wheel from usb or the power line at any time. And I need not to manually disconnect the DS4 at any time!
Also I need not to take care exactly when I power the wheel on with it's power switch - sometimes early at the console start, sometimes late at the X point.
After pressing X button on the wheel on the press X point only the wheel buttons work automatically.

Except for PS4 like text input dialogs (driver name etc) and for jumping to PS4 menus with the PS button to power game or console off where only the (not fully "disconnected") DS4 works .

memoric77
20-05-2015, 06:35
For some reason with the regular CSR,it only let's me shift to 2nd gear no higher,but when I'm using the paddles,I can downshift all the way from the highest gear with the shifter....

maybe you have to calibrate the shifter to use it.

memoric77
20-05-2015, 06:44
I haven't disconnected my wheel from usb or the power line at any time. And I need not to manually disconnect the DS4 at any time!
Also I need not to take care exactly when I power the wheel on with it's power switch - sometimes early at the console start, sometimes late at the X point.
After pressing X button on the wheel on the press X point only the wheel buttons work automatically.

Except for PS4 like text input dialogs (driver name etc) and for jumping to PS4 menus with the PS button to power game or console off where only the (not fully "disconnected") DS4 works .

I can confirm everything except to push the x Button at the right time. it does not matter. important is, that the wheel is connected, pc mode activated and turned on when the game starts.

Giantslayer
20-05-2015, 07:01
I have had the game on PS4 since day one and have been using it with my Fanatec CSW and had it set up perfectly until yesterday where suddenly the gears started making selections on their own now it has just got worse every time I tried to drive it I have tried going back to default playing around with the settings and nothing has fix this problem that came on suddenly and does not even work in automatic as well and up to this moment I was really love in this game
http://youtu.be/UsG2mxT5d3E

Linx
20-05-2015, 07:18
Now I'm experiencing a new problem. In career mode doing the McLaren F1 invitational. I tuned my car and FFB. But during qualifying the tune goes back to default. This is happening randomly while racing.

memoric77
20-05-2015, 07:22
I have had the game on PS4 since day one and have been using it with my Fanatec CSW and had it set up perfectly until yesterday where suddenly the gears started making selections on their own now it has just got worse every time I tried to drive it I have tried going back to default playing around with the settings and nothing has fix this problem that came on suddenly and does not even work in automatic as well and up to this moment I was really love in this game
http://youtu.be/UsG2mxT5d3E

can't see, it's private

Giantslayer
20-05-2015, 09:14
Okay it's not the same video but it's the same problem that 5 gear is automatically been selected
http://youtu.be/m6X157ueoAw

Fanatest
20-05-2015, 09:15
For those of you using CSPv2 (with a fanatec wheel) have you noticed a dead zone when using the clutch?

According to the telemetry, I have have apx 1cm to 2cm of travel before the game begins to register my clutch activity. (This is causing the Grannnnnnnnnnnnnn Turismo effect) box of neutrals when quick shifting ;)

PC Driver recognises no dead zone on the CSP so halls are all functioning as expected.
Dead zone for clutch set to 0
Sensitivity has been tested from 0 to 100 and currently resides at 50

PC version of PCARS registers a micro amount of dead zone on the clutch, but not to the same extent.

Anyone experienced this or can test/report using the telemetry.

Edit:
It's actually closer to 3cm of travel before the clutch pedal registers? Other pedals are fine, not an issue on PC/Fanatec Driver and present on both console platforms.

Sankyo
20-05-2015, 09:19
I have had the game on PS4 since day one and have been using it with my Fanatec CSW and had it set up perfectly until yesterday where suddenly the gears started making selections on their own now it has just got worse every time I tried to drive it I have tried going back to default playing around with the settings and nothing has fix this problem that came on suddenly and does not even work in automatic as well and up to this moment I was really love in this game
http://youtu.be/UsG2mxT5d3E
Have any controller settings been changed compared to what you set them to, i.e. did they change by themselves?

Giantslayer
20-05-2015, 09:51
Have any controller settings been changed compared to what you set them to, i.e. did they change by themselves?

No they all remain the same as I have set them unless you're talking about the DS4 then I would not know

Davolaa919
20-05-2015, 11:08
Don't know if anyone else is having this issue but my gear padels have turned into x button and I can scroll through the menus?

Sankyo
20-05-2015, 12:26
No they all remain the same as I have set them unless you're talking about the DS4 then I would not know

Please set the first video to Unlisted instead of Private, so I can watch it.

James Boulton
20-05-2015, 13:29
Don't know if anyone else is having this issue but my gear padels have turned into x button and I can scroll through the menus?

Do you have the autoclutch option (ACL) enabled on your wheel? This sets it to press X when the paddles are pressed.

Sankyo
20-05-2015, 13:31
Okay it's not the same video but it's the same problem that 5 gear is automatically been selected
http://youtu.be/m6X157ueoAw
So what is your hardware set-up? Do you have an H-shifter connected?

Can you connect your wheel to a PC with the Fanatec driver installed and check if the control panel shows an issue with the gear selection?

Davolaa919
20-05-2015, 13:34
Ahh yes I do I changed it for the controller! Doh!! I'll try changing it back on the controller and try again! Anyone heard about a patch yet? Cheers james

Giantslayer
20-05-2015, 14:56
So what is your hardware set-up? Do you have an H-shifter connected?

Can you connect your wheel to a PC with the Fanatec driver installed and check if the control panel shows an issue with the gear selection?

No I do not it is in sequential mode and plugging it into my PC and doing the test was one of the first things I tried and everything seems right on the PC but I plug it back into the PlayStation and it still The same result Plus I made a new
http://youtu.be/aIN3Gct5DaA video hopefully you'll be able to see this one

Fong74
20-05-2015, 15:02
Did you change the input device from controller to wheel without re-starting the game? Im pretty sure this causes problems. The CSW works ok if you hit the X button after the game has loaded, in the welcome screen.

Giantslayer
20-05-2015, 15:31
Did you change the input device from controller to wheel without re-starting the game? Im pretty sure this causes problems. The CSW works ok if you hit the X button after the game has loaded, in the welcome screen.

That's how I been doing from day one it was working fine until around 30 minutes into 87 lap online race then it stopped for about 20 minutes and it just got worse after that now it's completely undrivable unless on the controller which is kind of undrivable as well

Davolaa919
20-05-2015, 15:31
Just tried these wheel settings and tbf they work! Minimal deadzone even had to add some lol!
In game settings
Steering deadzone 0
Sens 80
Clutch dead 0
Rest standard
Ff100
Cont input 3
Adv on
Steering damp off
Rest standard
Wheel settings
Sen 540
Ff 100
Sho 100
Drift off
Abs 100
Lin 000
Deadzone 0-10
Spring 0
Dpr 0
Acl off
Works for me but tween if you wish feck all deadzone and seems to drive nice for me

GBRC.C7
20-05-2015, 17:20
Great glad for you. Your profile has you running the PC. version of pCars if that's the case why are you posting on the PS4 section, if not and it is ps4 then please contact the devs because you may be the only Fanatec user this game is working properly for.

Linx
20-05-2015, 17:49
Question. Once the FFB patch is released will we still have to adjust FFB settings or will it be plug n play?

GBRC.C7
20-05-2015, 18:03
I would hope that it won't be P'n'P, this is the 1st time we've had these options on console I hope we don't loose them.

It would be nice though if the defaults for different hardware are closer to a decent starting point post patch for both general settings and for each cars individual settings.

I think this is unlikely though given the possible hardware permutations so if you have been adjusting individual car settings I would think you will need to repeat that process post update.

I am not using my wheel, and therefore not playing the game in any meaningful way, until the deadzone and feedback issues are patched as I don't want to diminish the experience that I am sure will come once the Gremlins are gone.

If SMS can fix the problems then I am going to be racking up hours and hours in the coming years (until pCars 2 or something better comes along) and I don't think SMS are here for the short run.

On console Ian Bell may well be Kaz's successor, time will tell, but, if the studio can sort the present issues in a timely fashion there may be a new King of console racing.

Interesting times.....

Titzon Toast
20-05-2015, 18:24
Question. Once the FFB patch is released will we still have to adjust FFB settings or will it be plug n play?

Pure speculation here, but I would imagine that things will still have to be adjusted.
A good few people have posted looking for some generic presets though, I wouldn't be surprised if SMS added them at some stage.
There are loads of great setups posted on here alread. After the patch people will probably update them and we'll be good to go.
I've barely turned a wheel in this game myself, I'm not playing until I can play it properly.

nerve-pain
20-05-2015, 20:05
maybe you have to calibrate the shifter to use it.
I don't think there's a way to calibrate the shifter..

memoric77
20-05-2015, 20:20
I don't think there's a way to calibrate the shifter..

of course. just press the tuning button and the select button at the same time

Doodle
20-05-2015, 20:30
After the wheel boots up and has the three dashes,you have to hold the back/select button on the wheel,it should be the button on your left side under the d-pad,which how you put it into pc mode

The "n" still doesn't show up after doing this.

nerve-pain
20-05-2015, 20:36
of course. just press the tuning button and the select button at the same time

Probably a dumb question,but is the tuning button the one with the 3 squigally lines?

Kain NL
20-05-2015, 20:38
I'm having trouble with couple a things.
In game, garage, choose McLaren F1, choose a color with right stick...it jumps 2 colors forward or backward in stead of one.
Online game, DRIVE into pitlane, start edit a pitprofile, try to change the name or create a new one. Once the car is back on the track...in pitts...the keypad STAYS on screen. Only way to get it out is stopping PCars and start over again.
Made me loose my whole steering setup...did 10+ steering calibrations again to get my setup back!

memoric77
20-05-2015, 21:30
Probably a dumb question,but is the tuning button the one with the 3 squigally lines?

Dont know. I use the gt3. have a looks at your manual.

Linx
20-05-2015, 21:32
To tell the truth I think I would of been less frustrated had SMS called another delay in release to perfect the game rather then the frustration I feel now from all these bugs and no acknowledgment from SMS. It's almost like owning an guard dog with no teeth.

flatspunout
20-05-2015, 22:39
I'm having trouble with couple a things.
In game, garage, choose McLaren F1, choose a color with right stick...it jumps 2 colors forward or backward in stead of one.
Online game, DRIVE into pitlane, start edit a pitprofile, try to change the name or create a new one. Once the car is back on the track...in pitts...the keypad STAYS on screen. Only way to get it out is stopping PCars and start over again.
Made me loose my whole steering setup...did 10+ steering calibrations again to get my setup back!

Press circle on the DS4 to back out of the keyboard.

killer2293
20-05-2015, 23:20
Just tried these wheel settings and tbf they work! Minimal deadzone even had to add some lol!
In game settings
Steering deadzone 0
Sens 80
Clutch dead 0
Rest standard
Ff100
Cont input 3
Adv on
Steering damp off
Rest standard
Wheel settings
Sen 540
Ff 100
Sho 100
Drift off
Abs 100
Lin 000
Deadzone 0-10
Spring 0
Dpr 0
Acl off
Works for me but tween if you wish feck all deadzone and seems to drive nice for me

Those settings are nice. Cut down the dead zone a great deal. Great work and thank you for posting.

gotdirt410sprintcar
20-05-2015, 23:48
I have a question I just got a gt3 rs, the 205 drivers are the one's I want to down load the 32 and 64 bit correct, and the new firmware. is there a ps4 mode or I have to run it in pc mode.

killer2293
21-05-2015, 00:20
I have a question I just got a gt3 rs, the 205 drivers are the one's I want to down load the 32 and 64 bit correct, and the new firmware. is there a ps4 mode or I have to run it in pc mode.

32 bit or 64 bit depends on what type of computer you have I'd imagine. I run with 756 firmware 205 Firmware.....but search the forum to see what driver guys are running. I also run the wheel in PC mode on PS4 works fine.

gotdirt410sprintcar
21-05-2015, 01:08
32 bit or 64 bit depends on what type of computer you have I'd imagine. I run with 756 firmware 205 Firmware.....but search the forum to see what driver guys are running. I also run the wheel in PC mode on PS4 works fine.
How does the ffb feel good bad ?

killer2293
21-05-2015, 01:13
How does the ffb feel good bad ?

The force feedback is OK. Can't feel the kerbs. But I have not messed with the FFB on individual cars as much as I should. The spreadsheet on the first page of forums will give you those settings. But I have enjoyed the settings posted a few posts back. Wheel is very responsive.

K_Soze
21-05-2015, 01:21
I am sure that it has already been proposed, but having kind of per car FFB presets based on community popularity should help a lot. My wife is laughing a lot when she see me print some excel sheets and trying to tune the FFB :)

gotdirt410sprintcar
21-05-2015, 01:22
The force feedback is OK. Can't feel the kerbs. But I have not messed with the FFB on individual cars as much as I should. The spreadsheet on the first page of forums will give you those settings. But I have enjoyed the settings posted a few posts back. Wheel is very responsive. Ok thanks killer maybe see you on the track

Terriblewone
21-05-2015, 03:26
Those settings are nice. Cut down the dead zone a great deal. Great work and thank you for posting.
I too find these settings to have helped minimize the deadzone. I think this is pretty much as good as we are going to get with our wheels pretty much emulating a controller with the current bug. The game has been out how long now and we still have not seen an official statement on this issue (as far as I know)? :mad:

331 LX
21-05-2015, 04:45
Is anyone having problems with the wheel settings in game saving? I have to change the settings every time I start the game and it's a pain in the ass.

331 LX
21-05-2015, 04:47
The "n" still doesn't show up after doing this.

Here is a video of mine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz_cDIhjY2g

Davolaa919
21-05-2015, 06:11
Great glad for you. Your profile has you running the PC. version of pCars if that's the case why are you posting on the PS4 section, if not and it is ps4 then please contact the devs because you may be the only Fanatec user this game is working properly for.
Dunno why it said PC lol! I'm on ps4

Davolaa919
21-05-2015, 06:13
Those settings are nice. Cut down the dead zone a great deal. Great work and thank you for posting.

No prob I was sat for most of the day faffing around and seemed to stumble across them and was chuffed to bits! :rolleyes: btw its for ps4 just Been made aware that my profile said pc lol!

GBRC.C7
21-05-2015, 07:57
Dunno why it said PC lol! I'm on ps4

glad you have found some settings that at least make the wheel usable for now.
You can change the PC to PS4 in either profile or settings (can't remember which), top right of the page.

RAVEracer
21-05-2015, 09:24
May I make a suggestion? Can someone edit updates into the OP of how the patch is progressing, at the end of each week? For example, "devs are in the process of figuring out the issues". If nothing's changed in the week it can still be updated saying so. Just a thought :)

Bruno Alexandre
21-05-2015, 09:30
We're working on it guys, hard to give ETA's at this point.

Fong74
21-05-2015, 10:16
I'm having trouble with couple a things.
In game, garage, choose McLaren F1, choose a color with right stick...it jumps 2 colors forward or backward in stead of one.
Online game, DRIVE into pitlane, start edit a pitprofile, try to change the name or create a new one. Once the car is back on the track...in pitts...the keypad STAYS on screen. Only way to get it out is stopping PCars and start over again.
Made me loose my whole steering setup...did 10+ steering calibrations again to get my setup back!

You can also press the PS-button to jump to the PS4 menue. Pressing it again returns you to the game with the keyboard gone.

JC11186
21-05-2015, 10:35
We're working on it guys, hard to give ETA's at this point.

Thanks for that mate. Everyone here appreciates good customer service, and you guys poking your head in here every now and then goes a long way.

I have a question:

The Force Feedback can only be described as abysmal right now. Many of us have spent up to about 2K on our Fanatec wheels alone. Are Slightly Mad Studios striving to deliver a Force Feedback Wheel performance as good as what's currently available on PC?

Obviously given how mediocre and unfinished it is at the moment, it's a genuine concern that even with patches it will be "good", but not "great".

It would be very reassuring to know that Slightly Mad Studios really understand that many Fanatec customers have spent a lot of money, and even a half baked Sim like Gran Turismo 6 has Force Feedback that make Projects Cars on the PS4 feel void of all life and feeling.

Sankyo
21-05-2015, 11:19
Thanks for that mate. Everyone here appreciates good customer service, and you guys poking your head in here every now and then goes a long way.

I have a question:

The Force Feedback can only be described as abysmal right now. Many of us have spent up to about 2K on our Fanatec wheels alone. Are Slightly Mad Studios striving to deliver a Force Feedback Wheel performance as good as what's currently available on PC?

Obviously given how mediocre and unfinished it is at the moment, it's a genuine concern that even with patches it will be "good", but not "great".

It would be very reassuring to know that Slightly Mad Studios really understand that many Fanatec customers have spent a lot of money, and even a half baked Sim like Gran Turismo 6 has Force Feedback that make Projects Cars on the PS4 feel void of all life and feeling.
Please update your profile so that it shows you're playing on PS4, not PC ;)

Fanatec wheel support is broken currently on the PS4, and that therefore includes FFB. After that has been fixed, come back to report if anything is still feeling bad.

Fong74
21-05-2015, 11:58
Thanks for that mate. Everyone here appreciates good customer service, and you guys poking your head in here every now and then goes a long way.

I have a question:

The Force Feedback can only be described as abysmal right now. Many of us have spent up to about 2K on our Fanatec wheels alone. Are Slightly Mad Studios striving to deliver a Force Feedback Wheel performance as good as what's currently available on PC?

Obviously given how mediocre and unfinished it is at the moment, it's a genuine concern that even with patches it will be "good", but not "great".

It would be very reassuring to know that Slightly Mad Studios really understand that many Fanatec customers have spent a lot of money, and even a half baked Sim like Gran Turismo 6 has Force Feedback that make Projects Cars on the PS4 feel void of all life and feeling.

Honestly, I do not understand what you are talking about. See my sig for reference. Personally I do not have any major issues with the FFB or the controls at all (minor issues like cogging and disappearing FFb once in a blue moon which then can be removed by simply turning the wheel off and on again are the ones that I experience atm). Other users do have issues, I am aware of this (mostly with older Fanatecs like GT3/911). The devs are working on solutions, so some patience is what we all need now. Maybe your expectations were too high? Maybe you spent too much money on hardware that does not suite you? Just trying to get your point as it is completely devious to me...

GT6 vs pCARS FFb:
I was involved in the development of the Fanatec (which basically was a G27 compatibility mode) support on PS3 and do absolutely not aggree with your statement concerning the GT6/pCars comparison in terms of FFb. You are comparing a solid racer which is full of canned effects when it comes to FFb with a fully physics driven FFb that pCars offers. Thats like comparing the Ace Combat series with the MS Flight Simulator. Both do have airplanes in the game. Both represent completely different approaches to "flying" though. So yes, one could say, I do like Ace Combat more. Fair enough. But stating that AC offers a better feeling when it comes to flying rather than MSFS does, would be highly questionable at large, if the simulation aspect is taken into account. pCARS is a simulation. GT6 clearly is *not*. So what is generally more "void of all life and feeling"?

djdavedoc
21-05-2015, 12:00
Fanatec 911 Turbo S wheel which is listed as compatible with the PS4 version of Project CARS YAY!!

Downsides are as follows:
I have to run the wheel in PC Mode (small thing I know)
There is a MONUMENTAL amount of Dead Zone despite on my wheel the DEA option is set to 000 and I have set the Dead Zone down as low as it can go in the control settings.... doesn't make any difference there is a HORROR show of deadzone!

When I initially tried my Wheel it would freeze and lock up the game in 2 second intervals basically making it unplayable. Updating the wheel to the latest firmware fixed that for any of you guys getting that issue.

Hopefully SMS can fix the wheel issues. Guessing its something PS4 Driver related?

Sankyo
21-05-2015, 12:16
Fanatec 911 Turbo S wheel which is listed as compatible with the PS4 version of Project CARS YAY!!

Downsides are as follows:
I have to run the wheel in PC Mode (small thing I know)
There is a MONUMENTAL amount of Dead Zone despite on my wheel the DEA option is set to 000 and I have set the Dead Zone down as low as it can go in the control settings.... doesn't make any difference there is a HORROR show of deadzone!

When I initially tried my Wheel it would freeze and lock up the game in 2 second intervals basically making it unplayable. Updating the wheel to the latest firmware fixed that for any of you guys getting that issue.

Hopefully SMS can fix the wheel issues. Guessing its something PS4 Driver related?

Currently your wheel is detected as a gamepad, so it doesn't work properly. It will be fixed.

djdavedoc
21-05-2015, 12:35
Currently your wheel is detected as a gamepad, so it doesn't work properly. It will be fixed.

Thanks!! :)

Mascot
21-05-2015, 13:11
Fanatec GT2 user here on PS4.

I know various set-ups and tweaks have been discussed but is there one that's considered 'best' at the moment (until the patch arrives)..?
I'm looking to minimise the deadzone and maximise FFB.

There's far too much fud on this whole fourm. It makes searching for anything sensible quite tricky, so any help would be very much appreciated.

killer2293
21-05-2015, 13:48
Fanatec GT2 user here on PS4.

I know various set-ups and tweaks have been discussed but is there one that's considered 'best' at the moment (until the patch arrives)..?
I'm looking to minimise the deadzone and maximise FFB.

There's far too much fud on this whole fourm. It makes searching for anything sensible quite tricky, so any help would be very much appreciated.

I use the settings a few posts back. The force feedback is good. Not feeling kerbs as much as I would like. But the big thing of dead zone is close to eliminated. Which for me is huge because you can drive the car now. I raced last night against computer with settings and no adjustments to car and it was great. I felt like I could drive car and the entire race had a smile on my face. I know they aren't perfect but I tend to be an optimist and I am satisfied with these settings. I also use a gt2.

killer2293
21-05-2015, 13:51
Just tried these wheel settings and tbf they work! Minimal deadzone even had to add some lol!
In game settings
Steering deadzone 0
Sens 80
Clutch dead 0
Rest standard
Ff100
Cont input 3
Adv on
Steering damp off
Rest standard
Wheel settings
Sen 540
Ff 100
Sho 100
Drift off
Abs 100
Lin 000
Deadzone 0-10
Spring 0
Dpr 0
Acl off
Works for me but tween if you wish feck all deadzone and seems to drive nice for me

These are the settings. Great work Davolaa

killer2293
21-05-2015, 13:52
Any idea what the ADV (on or off) controls?

Mascot
21-05-2015, 14:10
These are the settings. Great work Davolaa

Thanks very much. I'll try those tonight.

Titzon Toast
21-05-2015, 14:15
Honestly, I do not understand what you are talking about. See my sig for reference. Personally I do not have any major issues with the FFB or the controls at all (minor issues like cogging and disappearing FFb once in a blue moon which then can be removed by simply turning the wheel off and on again are the ones that I experience atm). Other users do have issues, I am aware of this (mostly with older Fanatecs like GT3/911). The devs are working on solutions, so some patience is what we all need now. Maybe your expectations were too high? Maybe you spent too much money on hardware that does not suite you? Just trying to get your point as it is completely devious to me...

GT6 vs pCARS FFb:
I was involved in the development of the Fanatec (which basically was a G27 compatibility mode) support on PS3 and do absolutely not aggree with your statement concerning the GT6/pCars comparison in terms of FFb. You are comparing a solid racer which is full of canned effects when it comes to FFb with a fully physics driven FFb that pCars offers. Thats like comparing the Ace Combat series with the MS Flight Simulator. Both do have airplanes in the game. Both represent completely different approaches to "flying" though. So yes, one could say, I do like Ace Combat more. Fair enough. But stating that AC offers a better feeling when it comes to flying rather than MSFS does, would be highly questionable at large, if the simulation aspect is taken into account. pCARS is a simulation. GT6 clearly is *not*. So what is generally more "void of all life and feeling"?

The settings in your sig are useless to anyone who can't calibrate their wheel because it's recognised as a controller, we can't access global settings like TF.
Why can't you understand that?
I guarantee you that if you were experiencing the same issue you wouldn't be all sweetness and light around here either.

TheLethalDose
21-05-2015, 14:28
The settings in your sig are useless to anyone who can't calibrate their wheel because it's recognised as a controller, we can't access global settings like TF.
Why can't you understand that?
I guarantee you that if you were experiencing the same issue you wouldn't be all sweetness and light around here either.

I have no idea how that guy thinks theres nothing wrong with the ffb.

Its like driving a Ferrari with a smart car engine in it and saying "wow its so fast and sounds great!"

Titzon Toast
21-05-2015, 14:50
I have no idea how that guy thinks theres nothing wrong with the ffb.

Its like driving a Ferrari with a smart car engine in it and saying "wow its so fast and sounds great!"

His wheel is obviously recognised by the game and probably works just fine.
Well for him, I just wish I could say the same.
I'm gonna have some amount of catching up to do if I want to be competitive online, and I do!

Fong74
21-05-2015, 15:36
The settings in your sig are useless to anyone who can't calibrate their wheel because it's recognised as a controller, we can't access global settings like TF.
Why can't you understand that?
I guarantee you that if you were experiencing the same issue you wouldn't be all sweetness and light around here either.

I do understand, believe me. But my opinion is as valid as others as i do not have major issues. So why cant I express it? What is this? A whining and ranting only thread? Ppl stopping by here should be also able to read that there are combinations of wheel/console that do already work fine in general atm. But yes, lucky me, my combination is "light and sweetness" as it gives me a BIG FAT grin every time I start rolling. The game is awsome for ppl who love to race. And it is light-years ahead of GT6 in terms of physics and FFb. That was my point basically...

I stated my sympathy for those who have problems atm and I really hope that you guys get those issues sorted out by SMS soon. It was never my intention to be disrespectful towards those experiencing major wheel-issues. Just wanted to make that very clear.

Freak66
21-05-2015, 15:37
Currently your wheel is detected as a gamepad, so it doesn't work properly. It will be fixed.

Hi!

in addition to djdavedoc´s issues (Deadzone, etc.) the L1/R1 function via Brake/Throttle of my 911 Turbo S Wheel is not working in the menus (in car setup Menu only)!
Could not find posts for that - has anyone a solution or a work around?

Its totally annoying not being able even to setup a lobby......

Any ideas when the next patch will be released?


The Freak

P.S.: Wheel is in PC Mode and detected in Pcars controller menu as "Fanatec 911 Turbo", although there are no further wheel functions in the menus (like calibration etc.)
Latest Turbo S Firmware 756 and PS4 Pcars day one patch are installed.

Titzon Toast
21-05-2015, 16:25
I do understand, believe me. But my opinion is as valid as others as i do not have major issues. So why cant I express it? What is this? A whining and ranting only thread? Ppl stopping by here should be also able to read that there are combinations of wheel/console that do already work fine in general atm. But yes, lucky me, my combination is "light and sweetness" as it gives me a BIG FAT grin every time I start rolling. The game is awsome for ppl who love to race. And it is light-years ahead of GT6 in terms of physics and FFb. That was my point basically...

I stated my sympathy for those who have problems atm and I really hope that you guys get those issues sorted out by SMS soon. It was never my intention to be disrespectful towards those experiencing major wheel-issues. Just wanted to make that very clear.

I quoted your post because you dismissed what someone who is having wheel trouble said, simple as. How do expect him to enter your settings when he can't?
I never said you or anyone else couldn't post in this thread either for that matter.
You took my sweetness and light comment up wrong as well, it refers to someones attitude, not their ffb feel.
I've no doubt that this game is awsome for people who like to race, I love to race, I just can't.

SirDriftaLot
21-05-2015, 19:00
In pursuit of a fix for my GT2 and Turbo S, I've read every post in this thread (and many others). The following is a summery of the best way to make the Fanatec Porsche wheels work properly with Pcars. At least until SMS releases a patch. Credit to Gabba73 for sharing the firmware fix.

The GT2, GT3 RS, and Turbo S are all recognized as Turbo S wheels but the game fails to display the wheels calibration menus. Making it impossible to configure the wheels, leaving a large deadzone in the steering. To correct this issue you must update the firmware of your GT2, GT3 RS, or Turbo S to the latest version of the CSR firmware (v756). This is just as easy as updating the firmware as you would normally, just replace the original .pw1 .pw2 and .pw3 files that come with your wheels updater with the files from the CSR updater (CSR_756B.pw1, CSR_756B.pw2, and ERASE.pw3). This Procedure did NOT damage or brick either of my wheels. Just remember to re-calibrate your H-pattern shifter after the update. Lets move on to the next issue.

The CSR firmware will reconfigure your wheels button layout. Here (http://i.imgur.com/RH2MHFc.jpg) is a picture showing the new button configuration. This new button layout is missing an R1 button, making navigating the menus a bit difficult/impossible at times. Instructions: Use the DS4 to launch the game and navigate to Options > Controls > Edit Assignments. Once there connect your wheel to Pcars (Make sure the wheel is connected to the PS4 via USB. Power the wheel on and wait for the 3 dashes. Now hold L4 (up on the wheels d-pad) to enable PC/PS4 mode, disconnect your DS4 and press the Cross button on your wheel to connect it to Pcars.), now edit your button assignments. Here (http://i.imgur.com/olRAJtD.jpg) are my suggested button assignments. Screenshot (http://i.imgur.com/w3Rn4BT.jpg) of the assignments in the options. After you're finished, press L1 to navigate to the Configuration tab and input these settings:

Steering Deadzone: 0
Steering Sensitivity: 50
Throttle Deadzone: 0
Throttle Sensitivity: 50
Brake Deadzone: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 50 (or something comfortable)
Clutch Deadzone: 0 (currently n/a)
Clutch Sensitivity: 50 (currently n/a)

Speed Sensitivity: 0
Controller Filtering Sensitivity: 0
Damper Saturation: 0

Force Feedback: 100

RPM/Gear Display: Yes (works with the CSR firmware on the Porsche wheels)

Controller Input Mode: 2?

Advanced: On
Soft Steering Dampening: Off
Visual Wheel Filtering: Off
Opposite Lock Help: Off

Now press L1 again to navigate to the Control Scheme tab and press the throttle the calibrate the Force Feedback. Start with these (default) settings:

Tire Force: 100
Per Wheel Movement: 0.00
Per Wheel Movement Squared: 0.00
Wheel Position Smoothing: 0.00

Deadzone Removal Range: 0.05
Deadzone Removal Falloff: 0.01

Linkage Scale 0.00
Linkage Stiffness: 1.00
Linkage Damping: 1.00

Relative Adjust Gain: 1.00
Relative Adjust Bleed: 0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp: 1.00

Scoop Knee: 0.70
Scoop Reduction: 0.15

Soft Clipping (Half Input): 0.00
Soft Clipping (Full Output): 0.00

Press circle twice to close the Force Feedback Calibration screen and exit the Controls Options. Feel free to calibrate the wheel, but DO NOT calibrate the pedals! If you do you will no longer be able to navigate the menus and will have to reset the in-game wheel settings (Options > Controls > Control Scheme > Reset/Triangle).

Congratulations! You've eliminated the deadzone from your Porsche wheel, and can now access all the in-game calibration/configuration options! Unfortunately we've also adopted the problems facing the CSR wheels, mainly, no clutch pedal.

The CSR and CSR Elite are officially recognized and have access to the in-game wheel calibrations/options. But lack clutch pedal functionality when using the CSR or CSR Elite pedals (Clubsport pedals seem to work from what I've read). You would think Options > Controls > Control Scheme > Pedal Calibration would fix the issue. But it only makes things worse, leaving you unable to navigate the menus using the pedals as R2/L2, and still no clutch. The only work around for this at the moment is to assign the clutch to a button on the wheel, enable Automatic Clutch in the in-game options, and try to only drive cars that might not have a clutch pedal. Like modern sports cars, GT cars, and formula cars with paddle shifters. Or cars with a "dogbox" (a transmission that allows semi-clutchless shifting) and don't need a clutch while on-track, like the stockcar and/or some of the historic formula cars. Just Google/Wiki what you're driving. Be sure to disable Auto Clutch when driving cars with sequentials to get better shifts (hence why I suggest assigning Auto Clutch to a button on the wheel).

Besides the lack of clutch and a couple other reported issues, this fix makes the Porsche wheels work basically as intended. The results feel MUCH better then any amount of reducing/increasing sensitivity or mismanaging the in-game ffb settings in an attempt to reduce the previously existing deadzone, which they never can without all the calibration/configuration options. Driving with that amount of play in the steering is unrealistic and promotes bad muscle memory.

Hopefully some of you Porsche wheel owners find this useful, I know I did. Again full credit to Gabba73 for originally sharing the CSR firmware fix.

See you on the track!

mallenium
21-05-2015, 20:38
@SirDriftaLot : Thx for the detailed tutorial.
I've already installed the CSR Firmware on my GT2, but how did you configured the H-Pattern?? Usally it's the back (left on the bottom) + tuning button....

Gloomy
21-05-2015, 21:17
I'm hesitant about using the csr firmware, my pc is kind of sketchy, it took me a couple hours and many attempts just upgrading to the latest gt3 firmware since the program kept freezing on me. I was ecstatic when it finally went through, I don't want to have to go through all of that again. I just hope the patch for these wheels come sooner rather than later.

GBRC.C7
21-05-2015, 21:22
Does anyone here have Fanatec view on 'bruteforcing' the CSR firmware onto GT2/3 wheels, while my wheel is out of warranty and therefore I have no direct comeback and would do the csr flash at my own risk there must be a reason why the firmware is different in the first place.

SirDriftaLot
21-05-2015, 22:51
@SirDriftaLot : Thx for the detailed tutorial.
I've already installed the CSR Firmware on my GT2, but how did you configured the H-Pattern?? Usally it's the back (left on the bottom) + tuning button....

It's actually Start + Tuning button at the same time. Make sure your wheel is connected to your pc via usb and the wheel is in pc mode before you configure the H-pattern or else it won't work.


I'm hesitant about using the csr firmware, my pc is kind of sketchy, it took me a couple hours and many attempts just upgrading to the latest gt3 firmware since the program kept freezing on me. I was ecstatic when it finally went through, I don't want to have to go through all of that again. I just hope the patch for these wheels come sooner rather than later.

I was also hesitant, so I tried it on my older Turbo S wheel first. Worked great, so I tried it on my GT2 and it worked again. Make sure to disable your antivirus when flashing your wheel.


Does anyone here have Fanatec view on 'bruteforcing' the CSR firmware onto GT2/3 wheels, while my wheel is out of warranty and therefore I have no direct comeback and would do the csr flash at my own risk there must be a reason why the firmware is different in the first place.

I wouldn't be surprised if the firmware for the GT2, GT3, Turbo S, and CSR was nearly identical, as they all share the same internals (except for the xbox connectivity of the GT2, Turbo S, and CSR). The button layout on the CSR wheel is quite different (probably why the configuration changes so much with the firmware), but the internals are the exact same.

Remember, it's just a temporary fix. After SMS releases a patch, we will simply flash to our wheels original firmware. Or maybe Fanatec will release new firmware tailored for the PS4.

waters10
22-05-2015, 03:58
Thanks for such detailed instructions! I wanna try this on my Turbo S wheel. But before I do, I have to ask this. Does this affect usage of the wheel on the PC? Like, if I try to play Assetto Corsa on my PC after I put the CSR firmware, will it still function normally?

Sik180sx
22-05-2015, 05:25
It's gotta be getting close

memoric77
22-05-2015, 07:00
Thank you sirdriftalot and also the others for trying out and the extensive instructions.

For me personally, it would be helpful if one of those who posted adjusted ffb settings, are now update the customized firmware and completely excited ;).

Which allies has tried it? ;)

Sankyo
22-05-2015, 07:14
I'm hesitant about using the csr firmware, my pc is kind of sketchy, it took me a couple hours and many attempts just upgrading to the latest gt3 firmware since the program kept freezing on me. I was ecstatic when it finally went through, I don't want to have to go through all of that again. I just hope the patch for these wheels come sooner rather than later.


Thank you sirdriftalot and also the others for trying out and the extensive instructions.

For me personally, it would be helpful if one of those who posted adjusted ffb settings, are now update the customized firmware and completely excited ;).

Which allies has tried it? ;)
Warning: people with a GT3 wheel should not attempt installing the CSR firmware.
The Turbo S, GT2 and CSR wheels are similar wheels from an electronics and firmware point of view, but the GT3 is totally different.

memoric77
22-05-2015, 07:16
Warning: people with a GT3 wheel should not attempt installing the CSR firmware.
The Turbo S, GT2 and CSR wheels are similar wheels from an electronics and firmware point of view, but the GT3 is totally different.

Thank you for quick response. unfortunately means that I still have to wait for an update :(.

Trupl0
22-05-2015, 09:26
Any information on when a Fanatec fix ( Have a Porsche 911 GT3 RS V2 with Clubsport pedals V1 ) will be available for PS4?
Bought this game on D1 and I can`t play it for 2 whole weeks now.

I refuse to succumb to firmware flashes etc.
On your site and Fanatec`s site it says:
Full compatibility with PS4 and PCars

It does not work.
An official word would be nice.

I am not mean but I refuse to use workarounds or a controller when I bought a game for 70€ with an expensive Fanatec setup and the game is not working.

Bruno Alexandre
22-05-2015, 10:15
It will come soon, testing is undergoing and once we're sure all is working as it should it will be released. :)

HFCworks
22-05-2015, 10:29
It will come soon, testing is undergoing and once we're sure all is working as it should it will be released. :)

sooo.. tomorrow, right ? :p

Trupl0
22-05-2015, 11:02
It will come soon, testing is undergoing and once we're sure all is working as it should it will be released. :)

Thank you. I hope as soon as possible. :)
Although we have a saying here in our country:

"We shall see it!" - a blind man

:p

Sankyo
22-05-2015, 11:09
sooo.. tomorrow, right ? :p

There's a well-known phrase for that: It's coming SMSoon.

JC11186
22-05-2015, 13:25
It will come soon, testing is undergoing and once we're sure all is working as it should it will be released. :)

Thanks again Bruno.

You team needs to keep in mind that this is a Sim Racer.

Sim racing = Steering Wheel.

So it's of the upmost importance that the wheels works really well and the FFB can compete with other "sims".

I honestly couldn't care less about many of the other issues.

For me it's ALL ABOUT have a fully functional Force Feedback Wheel. ;)

Linx
22-05-2015, 13:52
I just wish it was in time for this holiday weekend. Every night when I get home from work I only get about 1-2 hours to play Pcars. And that time has been spent tinkering and trying to make it work right. My kid and wife are leaving out of town this weekend and I was excited to know it'll be nothing but me glued inside my Playseat and Pcars. This game was the reason I bought a PS4. Bought it the same day Pcars was released.

Mascot
22-05-2015, 14:26
Warning: people with a GT3 wheel should not attempt installing the CSR firmware.
The Turbo S, GT2 and CSR wheels are similar wheels from an electronics and firmware point of view, but the GT3 is totally different.

I'm a GT2 owner but would be nervous about brute-forcing the CSR firmware until somebody can confirm that it doesn't affect the Xbox 360 and PS3 compatibility. All the testing here seems to relate to use with the PS4 on Project CARS while the wheel is in PC mode. I still want to use my wheel to play GT6 and Forza 4.

Aw hell, I'm not taking the risk anyway. I'll wait for the patch.


These are the settings. Great work Davolaa

Can't say they made much difference to me, unfortunately. There's still a horrendous dead zone and the wheel now feels 'slack' about 10 degrees either side of vertical.

theomega
22-05-2015, 18:05
It's actually Start + Tuning button at the same time. Make sure your wheel is connected to your pc via usb and the wheel is in pc mode before you configure the H-pattern or else it won't work.



I was also hesitant, so I tried it on my older Turbo S wheel first. Worked great, so I tried it on my GT2 and it worked again. Make sure to disable your antivirus when flashing your wheel.



I wouldn't be surprised if the firmware for the GT2, GT3, Turbo S, and CSR was nearly identical, as they all share the same internals (except for the xbox connectivity of the GT2, Turbo S, and CSR). The button layout on the CSR wheel is quite different (probably why the configuration changes so much with the firmware), but the internals are the exact same.

Remember, it's just a temporary fix. After SMS releases a patch, we will simply flash to our wheels original firmware. Or maybe Fanatec will release new firmware tailored for the PS4.

Thanks for tips! So just to confirm, for this workaround, for my Porsche 911 Turbo S Wheel, I would flash with the CSR Firmware rev 756. Not PWTS Firmware rev 756 ?

memoric77
22-05-2015, 19:20
perhaps "soon" an alternative for us ;)
https://www.gtplanet.net/logitech-g29-driving-force-wheel-rumored-for-production/

killer2293
22-05-2015, 21:08
I'm a GT2 owner but would be nervous about brute-forcing the CSR firmware until somebody can confirm that it doesn't affect the Xbox 360 and PS3 compatibility. All the testing here seems to relate to use with the PS4 on Project CARS while the wheel is in PC mode. I still want to use my wheel to play GT6 and Forza 4.

Aw hell, I'm not taking the risk anyway. I'll wait for the patch.



Can't say they made much difference to me, unfortunately. There's still a horrendous dead zone and the wheel now feels 'slack' about 10 degrees either side of vertical.
When I use these settings. I do not get the dead zone. I have a GT2 with standard firmware. I also used these with standard car settings. These allowed me to control car and actually race.

waters10
22-05-2015, 21:55
So I put the CSR firmware in my PWTS.

Good news, seems to eliminate the deadzone for sure!

It's kinda of a pain, cause even though you can re-assign the buttons, you're stuck with the weird button config to navigate menus. And you don't have the R1 button no matter what you do. I don't remember if you need it other than at the config screen.

Also, my first test worked fine, before I re-assigned the button. After that, I reassigned buttons and calibrate the wheel. After I did that, I couldn't get my pedals to work anymore ... I gotta figure out why my pedals are not responding. But I got a glimpse of what this game can be, without that awful deadzone!

xXDoc187Xx
22-05-2015, 22:54
Man you gt2 911 wheel users should just leave your wheels along ,don't mess with the damn firmware files just wait for the patch or play race weekend with a controller until then or just play another game for now

waters10
23-05-2015, 02:25
So I put the CSR firmware in my PWTS.

Good news, seems to eliminate the deadzone for sure!

It's kinda of a pain, cause even though you can re-assign the buttons, you're stuck with the weird button config to navigate menus. And you don't have the R1 button no matter what you do. I don't remember if you need it other than at the config screen.

Also, my first test worked fine, before I re-assigned the button. After that, I reassigned buttons and calibrate the wheel. After I did that, I couldn't get my pedals to work anymore ... I gotta figure out why my pedals are not responding. But I got a glimpse of what this game can be, without that awful deadzone!

Update on my test.

It works! Perfect! I think the problem with my pedals was only just a cable connection. I reconnected it and it now works great! All in all, it was worth the hassle of messing with the firmware. Yes, I could've been more patient, but heck it works and I can easily revert back the firmware. Bit thanks to SirDriftALot!

Doc.
23-05-2015, 06:47
It will come soon, testing is undergoing and once we're sure all is working as it should it will be released. :)

Thats great to hear. Looking forward to getting back on the track with my wheel.

Davolaa919
23-05-2015, 07:16
I found after I posted if you add a bit of spring maybe about 3 it makes it a bit stiffer! ;)

daddyboosive
23-05-2015, 08:33
Hey I also have the 911 turbo S. Really disappointed and upset about nor being able to use it though. It has been gathering dust for the past 2 years since having the PS4. Then PEARS gets announced along with Fanatec support a bit later on. And I went into convulsive fit of excitement! You lied to us though :(. But the game is fantastic btw. I've had to use a pad just so I can play it and it feels dirty everytime I do. There's only one way to play racing games.... By using a pad aswell I've found it only works with some cars and classes. Some cars are quite frankly undriveable with pad.

Been reading through this lengthy thread though and it seems the CSR Firmware is a temporary fix though. So I'm looking to go ahead and try it out for myself. Before I do though. Could someone who is clued up about it please list the pros and cons for me so I know exactly what it does in game. Thank you very much.

P.s. Sorry for any spelling or grammatical mistakes. It's quite fiddly on my phone so I didn't proof read.

TRD
23-05-2015, 10:08
Right, im in serious trouble here and need serious help,

I have the original 911 turbo wheel (not the "S"), When it stopped working on ps3 a while back, fanatec sent me a new upgraded dongle for over $100 to make it work again, from what I can remember it is the dongle from the "turbo s" Now if I try to upgrade any firmware I cannot get into a bootloader mode because its a playstation only wheel, not the actual "s" which has different power on buttons etc and the firmware upgrader is for use with xbox wheels, I have no idea how to do this, even in the original user guide for 911 turbo, the method to calibrate the shifter doesn't respond, and my game freezes in segments every second I drive, If anyone has upgraded a 911 turbo wheel for playstation only, please give me some tips, thank you :( oh, and now I have upgraded the driver with the dongle plugged in the pc, I get playstation mode lights on the wheel only and nothing responds or works anymore, im spent trying to fix this , I ve tried everything I can and found different methods for upgrading and now its just a big confused mess fo me :(, seem to have got it into a mode with no lights, I expect pc mode with a little "n" on the display, but my game is still laggy as hell and is undrivable, for each 1/4 second that passes the game can freeze/lag for upto 1 or 2 seconds before the screen moves again,

daddyboosive
23-05-2015, 13:54
Updated my 911 Turbo S to the CSR Firmware and it's far better. But I have found a slight problem. It works really well when using fast cars like GT3 etc. But when using the slower cars I can't seem to carry any real speed. Is this just down to practice or is anyone else having the same problem?

Freak66
23-05-2015, 15:48
In pursuit of a fix for my GT2 and Turbo S, I've read every post in this thread (and many others). The following is a summery of the best way to make the Fanatec Porsche wheels work properly with Pcars. At least until SMS releases a patch. Credit to Gabba73 for sharing the firmware fix.

The GT2, GT3 RS, and Turbo S are all recognized as Turbo S wheels but the game fails to display the wheels calibration menus. Making it impossible to configure the wheels, leaving a large deadzone in the steering. To correct this issue you must update the firmware of your GT2, GT3 RS, or Turbo S to the latest version of the CSR firmware (v756). This is just as easy as updating the firmware as you would normally, just replace the original .pw1 .pw2 and .pw3 files that come with your wheels updater with the files from the CSR updater (CSR_756B.pw1, CSR_756B.pw2, and ERASE.pw3). This Procedure did NOT damage or brick either of my wheels. Just remember to re-calibrate your H-pattern shifter after the update. Lets move on to the next issue.

The CSR firmware will reconfigure your wheels button layout. Here (http://i.imgur.com/RH2MHFc.jpg) is a picture showing the new button configuration. This new button layout is missing an R1 button, making navigating the menus a bit difficult/impossible at times. Instructions: Use the DS4 to launch the game and navigate to Options > Controls > Edit Assignments. Once there connect your wheel to Pcars (Make sure the wheel is connected to the PS4 via USB. Power the wheel on and wait for the 3 dashes. Now hold L4 (up on the wheels d-pad) to enable PC/PS4 mode, disconnect your DS4 and press the Cross button on your wheel to connect it to Pcars.), now edit your button assignments. Here (http://i.imgur.com/olRAJtD.jpg) are my suggested button assignments. Screenshot (http://i.imgur.com/w3Rn4BT.jpg) of the assignments in the options. After you're finished, press L1 to navigate to the Configuration tab and input these settings:

Steering Deadzone: 0
Steering Sensitivity: 50
Throttle Deadzone: 0
Throttle Sensitivity: 50
Brake Deadzone: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 50 (or something comfortable)
Clutch Deadzone: 0 (currently n/a)
Clutch Sensitivity: 50 (currently n/a)

Speed Sensitivity: 0
Controller Filtering Sensitivity: 0
Damper Saturation: 0

Force Feedback: 100

RPM/Gear Display: Yes (works with the CSR firmware on the Porsche wheels)

Controller Input Mode: 2?

Advanced: On
Soft Steering Dampening: Off
Visual Wheel Filtering: Off
Opposite Lock Help: Off

Now press L1 again to navigate to the Control Scheme tab and press the throttle the calibrate the Force Feedback. Start with these (default) settings:

Tire Force: 100
Per Wheel Movement: 0.00
Per Wheel Movement Squared: 0.00
Wheel Position Smoothing: 0.00

Deadzone Removal Range: 0.05
Deadzone Removal Falloff: 0.01

Linkage Scale 0.00
Linkage Stiffness: 1.00
Linkage Damping: 1.00

Relative Adjust Gain: 1.00
Relative Adjust Bleed: 0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp: 1.00

Scoop Knee: 0.70
Scoop Reduction: 0.15

Soft Clipping (Half Input): 0.00
Soft Clipping (Full Output): 0.00

Press circle twice to close the Force Feedback Calibration screen and exit the Controls Options. Feel free to calibrate the wheel, but DO NOT calibrate the pedals! If you do you will no longer be able to navigate the menus and will have to reset the in-game wheel settings (Options > Controls > Control Scheme > Reset/Triangle).

Congratulations! You've eliminated the deadzone from your Porsche wheel, and can now access all the in-game calibration/configuration options! Unfortunately we've also adopted the problems facing the CSR wheels, mainly, no clutch pedal.

The CSR and CSR Elite are officially recognized and have access to the in-game wheel calibrations/options. But lack clutch pedal functionality when using the CSR or CSR Elite pedals (Clubsport pedals seem to work from what I've read). You would think Options > Controls > Control Scheme > Pedal Calibration would fix the issue. But it only makes things worse, leaving you unable to navigate the menus using the pedals as R2/L2, and still no clutch. The only work around for this at the moment is to assign the clutch to a button on the wheel, enable Automatic Clutch in the in-game options, and try to only drive cars that might not have a clutch pedal. Like modern sports cars, GT cars, and formula cars with paddle shifters. Or cars with a "dogbox" (a transmission that allows semi-clutchless shifting) and don't need a clutch while on-track, like the stockcar and/or some of the historic formula cars. Just Google/Wiki what you're driving. Be sure to disable Auto Clutch when driving cars with sequentials to get better shifts (hence why I suggest assigning Auto Clutch to a button on the wheel).

Besides the lack of clutch and a couple other reported issues, this fix makes the Porsche wheels work basically as intended. The results feel MUCH better then any amount of reducing/increasing sensitivity or mismanaging the in-game ffb settings in an attempt to reduce the previously existing deadzone, which they never can without all the calibration/configuration options. Driving with that amount of play in the steering is unrealistic and promotes bad muscle memory.

Hopefully some of you Porsche wheel owners find this useful, I know I did. Again full credit to Gabba73 for originally sharing the CSR firmware fix.

See you on the track!

I can confirm: following the instructions from SirDriftaLot the CSR firmware on my Porsche 911 Turbo S works perfectly for PS4.
For me it was totally woth it - crazy dead zone is gone and now I can play with the car in the corners, physics feel so real - best racing sim I ever ever ever played!
Just still no clutch and no R1, especially no R1 in the menus hurts... :(

THANK YOU BRAVE SirDriftaLot!!!

Just one additional note on the instructions: I replaced the original .pw1 .pw2 and .pw3 files AND RENAMED them (in my case "PWTS_756B.pw1",etc.)
Dont know if this was necessary, but it worked.

P.S.: did not test it on PC, Xboxs or PS3 games.

@daddyboosive: cant confirm your issue with slower cars, works for me in all classes

daddyboosive
23-05-2015, 15:59
@daddyboosive: cant confirm your issue with slower cars, works for me in all classes

It could just be my lack of skill and/or practice mate lol. I jumped in GT3 straight after updating the firmware and I took to it like a duck to water. It could be that those cars are just generally easy to drive though maybe?

waters10
23-05-2015, 16:42
I can confirm: following the instructions from SirDriftaLot the CSR firmware on my Porsche 911 Turbo S works perfectly for PS4.
For me it was totally woth it - crazy dead zone is gone and now I can play with the car in the corners, physics feel so real - best racing sim I ever ever ever played!
Just still no clutch and no R1, especially no R1 in the menus hurts... :(

THANK YOU BRAVE SirDriftaLot!!!

Just one additional note on the instructions: I replaced the original .pw1 .pw2 and .pw3 files AND RENAMED them (in my case "PWTS_756B.pw1",etc.)
Dont know if this was necessary, but it worked.

P.S.: did not test it on PC, Xboxs or PS3 games.

@daddyboosive: cant confirm your issue with slower cars, works for me in all classes

Yeah, mine is working perfectly. I had a few online races last night with some buddies and it was much better than before, without the deadzone. Not having R1 sucks though. I couldn't set up the online lobby properly and had to rely on my buddies to do it.

Navigating the menu is still a pain, with the up and right keys not in the D-pad where they should be, but honestly, at least it's playable now. It's truly one of "at your own risk" kind of deals. I'm comfortable with firmware updates on stuff like this, so it wasn't a big deal to me. I still can't wait for a proper patch!

Islandlad77
23-05-2015, 16:43
[QUOTE=Linx;934542]I just wish it was in time for this holiday weekend. Every night when I get home from work I only get about 1-2 hours to play Pcars. And that time has been spent tinkering and trying to make it work right. My kid and wife are leaving out of town this weekend and I was excited to know it'll be nothing but me glued inside my Playseat and Pcars. This game was the reason I bought a PS4. Bought it the same day Pcars was released.
I can totally relate to this mate. Spent three hours tinkering with settings last night and still don't feel connected with the car.
Managed pole but then lost 3 places with first two laps. Gave up and went to bed.
Hurry up fanatec !!!

Tirppa
23-05-2015, 17:11
So is this a fanatec or PCars issue? Which one should make the fix? Because if it's Fanatec I'm not holding my breath. The latest firmware is from 2012 I think. :|

Pretty dissapointed atm :( Fired up the game all ready to play and horrible deadzone :( That's not really "support for PS4" :|

GT3 RS V2 owner here :(

MONKEY3._.
23-05-2015, 18:42
I hoped for Fanatec fix for this weekend. Doesn't look like it's coming soon guys. Give them time though, lol!! It's quite poor the state of gaming nowadays to think I'm quite happy to wait till this game is fixed. midnight release, played about 40 laps in total. Struggling to hide my disappointment and still believe in this game.

Tirppa
23-05-2015, 19:04
I hoped for Fanatec fix for this weekend. Doesn't look like it's coming soon guys. Give them time though, lol!! It's quite poor the state of gaming nowadays to think I'm quite happy to wait till this game is fixed. midnight release, played about 40 laps in total. Struggling to hide my disappointment and still believe in this game.

The game is fine but the PS4 release wasn't very good. Should've just bought the PC version :|

Islandlad77
23-05-2015, 19:25
I hoped for Fanatec fix for this weekend. Doesn't look like it's coming soon guys. Give them time though, lol!! It's quite poor the state of gaming nowadays to think I'm quite happy to wait till this game is fixed. midnight release, played about 40 laps in total. Struggling to hide my disappointment and still believe in this game.

Fanatec will be well aware of the situation (Just through looking at various forums confirms this). Also due to the game being advertised with fanatec support and therefor an increase in fanatec hardware sales then surely they will realise the need for a fix as much as the consumer. Be patient and all will come good in the end. And even with the current situation, it's a whole different game compared to using a control pad.

gotdirt410sprintcar
23-05-2015, 22:48
So is this a fanatec or PCars issue? Which one should make the fix? Because if it's Fanatec I'm not holding my breath. The latest firmware is from 2012 I think. :|

Pretty dissapointed atm :( Fired up the game all ready to play and horrible deadzone :( That's not really "support for PS4" :|

GT3 RS V2 owner here :( I just got a gt3 rs yesterday and it had the latest firmware and driver on it already did not have to do anything. So its probably on sms side to fix it

Tirppa
23-05-2015, 22:58
I just got a gt3 rs yesterday and it had the latest firmware and driver on it already did not have to do anything. So its probably on sms side to fix it

the latest FW is from 2012 :P

Any idea how the wheel works with other games? (mainly driveclub?)

gotdirt410sprintcar
23-05-2015, 23:02
the latest FW is from 2012 :P

Any idea how the wheel works with other games? (mainly driveclub?) don't have driverclub but I don't think it will work for that only thrustmaster haven't tried gt6 yet work too much lol

SlightlyFreckled
24-05-2015, 02:50
So us GT3 users are screwed till they patch it? If PC does not have this issue then I'm gonna have to switch. :apologetic:

paulgp
24-05-2015, 04:31
Right, im in serious trouble here and need serious help,

I have the original 911 turbo wheel (not the "S"), When it stopped working on ps3 a while back, fanatec sent me a new upgraded dongle for over $100 to make it work again, from what I can remember it is the dongle from the "turbo s" Now if I try to upgrade any firmware I cannot get into a bootloader mode because its a playstation only wheel, not the actual "s" which has different power on buttons etc and the firmware upgrader is for use with xbox wheels, I have no idea how to do this, even in the original user guide for 911 turbo, the method to calibrate the shifter doesn't respond, and my game freezes in segments every second I drive, If anyone has upgraded a 911 turbo wheel for playstation only, please give me some tips, thank you :( oh, and now I have upgraded the driver with the dongle plugged in the pc, I get playstation mode lights on the wheel only and nothing responds or works anymore, im spent trying to fix this , I ve tried everything I can and found different methods for upgrading and now its just a big confused mess fo me :(, seem to have got it into a mode with no lights, I expect pc mode with a little "n" on the display, but my game is still laggy as hell and is undrivable, for each 1/4 second that passes the game can freeze/lag for upto 1 or 2 seconds before the screen moves again,

I've got the same wheel and dongle as you with the same issue, my post;


I've got the Fanatec 911 Turbo (not S) wheel with the Turbo S RF dongle, needed to upgrade the dongle to get full PS3 compatibility. Not sure what firmware is on the wheel/dongle but it might be the stock 681.

In Project cars with wheel in PC-mode the wheel works but the game has extreme lag like a few others have mentioned. The fix for this seems to be to upgrade to the latest 756 firmware, but I'm not sure if I can upgrade the firmware with having the turbo (not S) wheel and even if I could upgrade the 756 firmware disables the use of the RF dongle (the not S wheel only has wireless, it doesn't have a USB cable).

A bit more detail about the extreme lag. The game seems to stall until a signal from the wheel is sent to the game, so if I do small wobbles of the wheel side to side quickly the game runs at a somewhat playable frame rate (I have managed to drive an entire lap doing this). But if I stop moving the wheel the game completely stalls and I can advance the game frame by frame every time I push a button on the wheel. It stalls the game like this everywhere not just in a race like the menus, loading screens, opening video and even loading the game from the PS4 menu, so I have to wobble the wheel to load into the game.

It's seems like the game is waiting for a signal from the wheel before it goes on to render the next frame, but the wheel with the older firmware and/or wireless dongle might only be sending a signal when something changes on the wheel. The newer firmware 756 loses the wireless dongle support because it needs fast communication, so maybe they changed it from only sending a signal when something changes on the wheel to sending a continuous signal, which might be why upgrading to the latest 756 firmware fixes the extreme lag problem. If this is the reason for the extreme lag hopefully it will be an easy fix for SMS to patch as they would only have to stop this continuous checking for the wheel signal.

Everything on the wheel seems to be fine, like FFB, minimal dead zone. but it's a bit hard to really test it out when I'm having to continuously wobble the wheel to make the game run.

The game runs fine if I unplug the wheel and just play with the controller, but who wants to do that. Guess I'll will have to just try the wheel again when each new patch comes out to see if it's been fixed.

I think our only hope is that the patch SMS are working on for Project cars fixes it so the Turbo S with original 681 firmware works with the game without the freezing issue, otherwise we're screwed.

Tirppa
24-05-2015, 06:32
don't have driverclub but I don't think it will work for that only thrustmaster haven't tried gt6 yet work too much lol

Wheel works fine on ps3 with gt6

TRD
24-05-2015, 08:10
I've got the same wheel and dongle as you with the same issue, my post;



I think our only hope is that the patch SMS are working on for Project cars fixes it so the Turbo S with original 681 firmware works with the game without the freezing issue, otherwise we're screwed.

OMG thank god, another, well it seems like they may do a fix for the S itself but I doubt the 911 turbo will be usable, I tried to upgrade using the S config instructions but there is no xbox home button on the wheel, . . idk even know how to get it into bootlogger mode so I cant even put the firmware into the 3 areas you must extract them to in the software, and same issue, even to get pcars to load I must continually press buttons for the loading tacho to spin and load lol

Johnny_Aus
24-05-2015, 09:29
Can someone using the Clubsport V2 Base with Formula Rim please tell me the process for booting up this game on the PS4?

Which button is the "x" button on the wheel?

204232

Any help is really appreciated. :)

I don't want to damage my wheel.

Tirppa
24-05-2015, 09:57
Is there some official statement from SMS or Fanatec that they are actually working on this?

daddyboosive
24-05-2015, 10:10
Is there some official statement from SMS or Fanatec that they are actually working on this?

Straight from the top.


It was yes because it was a very silly question. There are certain third party facts we can't disclose because we are under NDA. I can say there are workarounds for problems and things will get better although it's not in our hands.


Sorry, I see you know of the workaround.

I can't say much more than we are not in control of 3rd party firmware.