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Bruno Alexandre
12-06-2015, 21:04
Hi there, you can reset by going to Options > Controls and use the reset option.
Could you inform me of what configuration you're using on your GT3 wheel and the firmware you have installed ?

Also try this if you may:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?30820-Patch-1-4-FFB-reports&p=986516&viewfull=1#post986516

SlightlyFreckled
12-06-2015, 21:54
Hi there, you can reset by going to Options > Controls and use the reset option.
Could you inform me of what configuration you're using on your GT3 wheel and the firmware you have installed ?

Also try this if you may:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?30820-Patch-1-4-FFB-reports&p=986516&viewfull=1#post986516

Oh wait so you mean like resetting in game? I meant like the settings on the gt3 wheel. But i guess that doesnt matter since I still gotta go through each setting again for project cars. This is what I used for shift 2 since PC was unplayable for me http://f-wheel.com/settings/shift-2-wheel-settings-recommended

HFCworks
12-06-2015, 21:55
gt3 911 v2 working like a carm. sometimes... i did a season in the formula rookie and there were 3 races in which the wheel gave no feedback not even a spring pressur. and then all of a sudden it came back.

other than that i can say it's been a long while since i've had so much fun in a race game!

xXDoc187Xx
12-06-2015, 23:33
Noob question here: 911 Turbo S Wheel

I'm on the wheel calibration screen where it say hold wheel either 90° clockwise/anticlockwise, do I turn my wheel till it reads 450°? If I turn if fully I get 180° and if I slightly turn it reads 17867°. But if I just turn my 90° the number then reads 900° which I currently have it on

PzR Slim
12-06-2015, 23:37
Noob question here: 911 Turbo S Wheel

I'm on the wheel calibration screen where it say hold wheel either 90° clockwise/anticlockwise, do I turn my wheel till it reads 450°? If I turn if fully I get 180° and if I slightly turn it reads 17867°. But if I just turn my 90° the number then reads 900° which I currently have it on

Do what it says, turn your wheel 90 degrees.

SlightlyFreckled
12-06-2015, 23:44
Anyone care to share a good FFB settings for the gt3? I feel barely nothing when turning and it doesn't vibrate when going off track(on sand). So it doesnt give me the real feeling that shift 2 does.

TRD
13-06-2015, 01:59
Hi , I can confirm the following, im using the "911 TURBO" wheel with the "911 TURBO (S)" dongle, . . . I still have the same problems I always had, . . . . ( "PS4" )

Game continuously freezing in segments like laggy visuals unless I am making some sort of input like tapping on a button or steering continuously, cannot upgrade dongle in any way as where the instructions ask to hold the specific buttons during setup, the 911 turbo (not S) wheel does not have the same buttons as "S" therefore cannot be configured.

If someone could confirm for me either
(a) they have this setup working ok, . . Turbo with turbo s dongle , or, . .
(b) this wheel setup is never going to be supported, . . So I can make a decision whether to bin the wheel and consider a new one, that would be most helpfull, . . .
Im spent with weeks of tinkering and to find the update did nothing to help my situation.

Kind regards.

Sankyo
13-06-2015, 07:07
Noob question here: 911 Turbo S Wheel

I'm on the wheel calibration screen where it say hold wheel either 90° clockwise/anticlockwise, do I turn my wheel till it reads 450°? If I turn if fully I get 180° and if I slightly turn it reads 17867°. But if I just turn my 90° the number then reads 900° which I currently have it on

That's not how it should be. Your wheel's sensitivity should be off, in the first step you should turn the wheel to full lock and then back to center, in the second step turn the wheel 90 degrees and keep it there. It should then tag a value slightly less than 900.

Tirppa
13-06-2015, 07:15
Hi!

Is there, or should there be a separate topic for fanatec wheel settings? I feel that setting should be separated from the technical support thread to a own topic. If there is one I couldn't find it.

Linx
13-06-2015, 07:49
is anybodys clutch pedal working?

SlightlyFreckled
13-06-2015, 07:56
I'm using the csr pedals and all three pedals seem to be working(calibrated them in the menu too and all 3 were recognized). I just don't understand what I'm doing wrong because sometimes when I clutch then shift, the car will not accelerate, not even in Reverse so I gotta press the reset button(not race reset but the one that repositions the car and after a 4th-5th try it works) However, most of the time I cannot Reverse at all. Sometimes the wheel even loses all its FFB in game(completely). The vibration motor is like mostly off through the some races. I yet haven't felt the slight vibration when accelerating and when on rough terrain like on shift 2.

Edit: I reflashed the firmware and installed the wheel on my pc cause I was thinking maybe it is faulty but I tested it with the fanatec software and it gave me very strong ffb and enough vibration.

Qwertz77
13-06-2015, 08:08
Hi,

I have problems with my 911 GT3 RS V2. I use this wheel together with the CSP V1, newest FW on the wheel. I had the known issues before patch 1.4 was installed (huge deadzone, FFB, etc.). It was far away from good but at least I could play the game. With patch 1.4 the game isn't playable anymore. The wheel is recognized correctly, I can calibrate wheel, FFB and pedals (loss of functionality of L2/R2) and the mapping of the buttons is saved.
So far so good. My wheel is shaking like hell when driving straight. I only tested the Clio but it was undriveable. I tried some settings but didn't get better results and didn't continue.

Settings ingame. FFB at the car is 100, rest is default.
Deadzones for steering/brakes/throttle/clutch 0 (I varried steering) sens 50
FFB settings default.
Wheel sens Off, sho 100, abs 90, Rest 0

Any help? Thanks.

TheLethalDose
13-06-2015, 09:27
Hi,

I have problems with my 911 GT3 RS V2. I use this wheel together with the CSP V1, newest FW on the wheel. I had the known issues before patch 1.4 was installed (huge deadzone, FFB, etc.). It was far away from good but at least I could play the game. With patch 1.4 the game isn't playable anymore. The wheel is recognized correctly, I can calibrate wheel, FFB and pedals (loss of functionality of L2/R2) and the mapping of the buttons is saved.
So far so good. My wheel is shaking like hell when driving straight. I only tested the Clio but it was undriveable. I tried some settings but didn't get better results and didn't continue.

Settings ingame. FFB at the car is 100, rest is default.
Deadzones for steering/brakes/throttle/clutch 0 (I varried steering) sens 50
FFB settings default.
Wheel sens Off, sho 100, abs 90, Rest 0

Any help? Thanks.

Same thing happening to me, wheel is rapidly shaking side to side under acceleration and it builds up in intensity, (sort of like a motorcycle "tank slapper")

dhevans79
13-06-2015, 09:36
Update for Gt2. Amazing after patch 1.4. It's now recognised as a gt2 with all the calibration options working for wheel and pedals. There is no dead zone, and feel and feedback is incredible. This is what I've been waiting for and Oh My God do I like it.

There is one more bug however, if you don't move the wheel, the on screen frame does not refresh. This made me think there was an issue with the game as the menu was not responsive, but once I started to move the wheel everything worked. Thus also continues in game, meaning to see any updates to the screen more than once every 10 seconds or so, you have to constantly move the wheel.

I can still play, and put some fast laps down, but this is a major bug with a large impact. Once this is resolved, it's gonna be incredible.

Thanks for the work SMS, it's really shone through. Fix this last issue on the gt2 and you have someone who'll support you all the way...

Mascot
13-06-2015, 09:39
Same thing happening to me, wheel is rapidly shaking side to side under acceleration and it builds up in intensity, (sort of like a motorcycle "tank slapper")

Me too, even at slow speeds. Put telemetry on and the FFB graph looks like a castle rampart, clipping top and bottom while the wheel shakes itself to death.

Nono
13-06-2015, 10:07
Me too, even at slow speeds. Put telemetry on and the FFB graph looks like a castle rampart, clipping top and bottom while the wheel shakes itself to death.

Exactly same thing for me too, with my CSR-E: wheel hardly shaking in straight. No problem before the patch.... :o(

RAVEracer
13-06-2015, 10:10
I'm really not happy. The game still stuffs up and freezes when used with my GT3 after the update. So I decided to take a risk and update the firmware.

Got through the first phase and the program stops responding during the second phase. I hate having to update the firmware to use it with this game. What do I do now? Have I stuffed my wheel? Someone calm me down...

Cozza13
13-06-2015, 10:13
Hello guys...

Iam now on the PS4 with Fanatec CSR wheel & CSR pedals (Though I want those clubsport elite so bad)


Really enjoyed the game last night after the patch (Still using auto clutch though as the clutch on CSR pedals just feels lifeless) and plan to have my own custom Le Man 24 hours later on.

Just wondering if anybody can let me know though... Is it possible to get the motors working inside the wheel rim?

Would really love to feel the rumble strips on kerbs and the ABS vibration, getting neither right now.

Is it possible now? Maybe a future patch if not?

I have tried having shock at 100 and also with ABS turned of (as I read somebody saying that would give you your rim motors back) but no luck so far.

Any kind of informed response would be great.


Thanks in advance

Enjoy P-Cars & enjoy Le Man :)

TheLethalDose
13-06-2015, 10:24
Sigh...I tried to be patient, but I'm near the end of my tether with putting up with all of the issues in this game.

There is obviously a big hole in QA procedures somewhere if a patch makes an already sub par experience even worse. 5 mins of testing would surely reveal that a wheel trying to violently over correct itself from tiny inputs is not meant to be part of the game.

Time to go repeatedly bash my head against a wall in frustration...possibly followed by crying in a dark corner somewhere.

Goresh
13-06-2015, 10:32
Hello guys...

Iam now on the PS4 with Fanatec CSR wheel & CSR pedals (Though I want those clubsport elite so bad)


Really enjoyed the game last night after the patch (Still using auto clutch though as the clutch on CSR pedals just feels lifeless) and plan to have my own custom Le Man 24 hours later on.

Just wondering if anybody can let me know though... Is it possible to get the motors working inside the wheel rim?

Would really love to feel the rumble strips on kerbs and the ABS vibration, getting neither right now.

Is it possible now? Maybe a future patch if not?

I have tried having shock at 100 and also with ABS turned of (as I read somebody saying that would give you your rim motors back) but no luck so far.

Any kind of informed response would be great.


Thanks in advance

Enjoy P-Cars & enjoy Le Man :)

I use the same wheel and have no issues at all. Are you using the 756 firmware? Have you calibrated your wheel in the game?

RAVEracer
13-06-2015, 10:32
Oh nvm I right clicked on the program and opened it in admin mode. And it worked. And I'm now using a steering wheel to play Project CARS after all this time. Wow.

BUT. As with Gran Turismo. I use the sequential shifter. Why can I only shift down, but never shift up? I'd love a response on this :)

Cozza13
13-06-2015, 11:17
I use the same wheel and have no issues at all. Are you using the 756 firmware? Have you calibrated your wheel in the game?

Yes... to both.

So your motors are working inside the wheel rim? You get vibration from kerbs and the ABS pedals setting?

titou09
13-06-2015, 12:26
For those having silly ffb problems with the gt3rs2,did you set SEn to off and ff to 100 on the wheel itself, then reset the wheel setting without any calibration in PC? My SEn was set to 360 and the game was unplayable the wheel was jerking like crazy
Hope this helps

Cabriojoschy
13-06-2015, 12:57
Hello Guys,

after some ours of testing PC 1.04 I have to say that it is still not satisfying. As a lucky guy, who had only comfort issues before (my CSW V2 was working good) the patch did not change my experience a lot.
CSW Handbrake issue (should be solved in 1.04) - I can´t assign the handbrake to the game. If I have not calibrated the pedals before it is not recognized. If I calibrate the pedals (R2/L2 bug still there after calibration) I get the message that multiple inputs were made, when I try to assign it.
CSS sequential issue - Now I can use my shifter in sequential mode but I have to decide to use either the shifting pedals of the wheel or the sequential shifter (assignments in steering menu). Both should work at the same time (like in GT6), that I can decide which one I use (depending on the car).
I use newest FW 094 and reseted everything in game after the update.

Any hints or workarounds would be appreciated.

GrimeyDog
13-06-2015, 13:00
Sigh...I tried to be patient, but I'm near the end of my tether with putting up with all of the issues in this game.

There is obviously a big hole in QA procedures somewhere if a patch makes an already sub par experience even worse. 5 mins of testing would surely reveal that a wheel trying to violently over correct itself from tiny inputs is not meant to be part of the game.

Time to go repeatedly bash my head against a wall in frustration...possibly followed by crying in a dark corner somewhere.

On the Wheel/Controler Set up Screen press the Triangle Button to Reset all Prior FFB Setting and Lock in New update... Only then will the FFB Update become active... I Restarted my PS4 and V2 wheel 10x!!! I Reflashed My Wheel FW a Few Times!!! and finally i Got Mad Started Deleting and Resetting Everything and dicovered my wheel was feeling good again by accident....SMS is Too Supid to put out a PDF that explains how to lock the update in or what settings do.

dhevans79
13-06-2015, 13:22
Update for Gt2. Amazing after patch 1.4. It's now recognised as a gt2 with all the calibration options working for wheel and pedals. There is no dead zone, and feel and feedback is incredible. This is what I've been waiting for and Oh My God do I like it.

There is one more bug however, if you don't move the wheel, the on screen frame does not refresh. This made me think there was an issue with the game as the menu was not responsive, but once I started to move the wheel everything worked. Thus also continues in game, meaning to see any updates to the screen more than once every 10 seconds or so, you have to constantly move the wheel.

I can still play, and put some fast laps down, but this is a major bug with a large impact. Once this is resolved, it's gonna be incredible.

Thanks for the work SMS, it's really shone through. Fix this last issue on the gt2 and you have someone who'll support you all the way...

Ignore me, after updating with the latest firmware for the GT2, v756, it's working fine, no problems any more with framerate.

Thanks again to SMS. Class A job in getting me playing with the Fanatec wheel. LOVE IT

-Brick_Top-
13-06-2015, 13:22
On the Wheel/Controler Set up Screen press the Triangle Button to Reset all Prior FFB Setting and Lock in New update... Only then will the FFB Update become active... I Restarted my PS4 and V2 wheel 10x!!! I Reflashed My Wheel FW a Few Times!!! and finally i Got Mad Started Deleting and Resetting Everything and dicovered my wheel was feeling good again by accident....SMS is Too Supid to put out a PDF that explains how to lock the update in or what settings do.

Mr dog what do you mean by lock in update please sir?!

Also what fw you running now?

Fong74
13-06-2015, 13:25
Do I understand correctly, that I only get the new FFb defaults by re-setting the wheel/controller values in the main menue setup screen? I guess same goes for car setups?

That would match with my observation, that all changes I made are still in place after the 1.4 update....

It would be good to have things like that communicated. Especially because one could read here on the forum upfront the patch, that the re-setting of FFb parameteres would be done by the update itself. Some users stated that they would take photos of their settings before the update would arrive to be able to set the parameters to their (old) values if needed.

Tirppa
13-06-2015, 13:46
Tried to calibrate my pedals and steering.. the gas pedal doesn't work.. it worked fine before trying to calibrate. Now it doesn't. Wtf.

E: never mind.. fixed it with restarting the game.

waters10
13-06-2015, 14:17
So before the patch, I had my Turbo S flashed with the CSR firmware. It worked very well, with no deadzone and FF felt good. The downside was buttons layout was screwed up and no access to R1 button.

Flashed to latest PWTS firmware, downloaded patch. First the good stuff, wheel lights up showing PS buttons! Much better. No deadzone, felt about the same as before with the CSR firmware as far as deadzone goes.

Now the bad part. FF is too strong, with the wheel super heavy. But the worst is the wheel shaking whenever I'm driving on a straight line, like some other guys reported before me. It's pretty bad! Wheel shakes violently with the default settings. I played a bit with the settings. I used both soft clip to 5.0 as per someone's suggestion and the shaking goes away, but then the wheel becomes super light with almost no FF. I experimented with different soft clip combinations and couldn't get it to feel right.

I can help but feel disappointed now. I've been mostly positive about this game! I've been running a fun league with 7 other co-workers and everyone is having a blast. I'm the only one with a wheel, but at least 3 of them are considering a wheel. With the G29 and the T300 being $400, they were thinking about a fanatec wheel. I just don't know if that's the right answer though, with so many problems happening and no guarantee that it'll work on GT7.

I'm hoping this shaking when driving straight is something that can be addressed in the settings and we don't have to wait weeks for a new patch!

Titzon Toast
13-06-2015, 15:04
@Waters10, I read this morning about someone who had the same problem you're describing, from what I remember they fixed it by setting the SENS on the wheel to OFF, and setting the wheel rotation in-game to 900 degrees.
It might be worth a try. I have the same wheel as you but I haven't tried out the new patch yet.
Please report back if this fix works!
Good luck.

waters10
13-06-2015, 15:22
@Waters10, I read this morning about someone who had the same problem you're describing, from what I remember they fixed it by setting the SENS on the wheel to OFF, and setting the wheel rotation in-game to 900 degrees.
It might be worth a try. I have the same wheel as you but I haven't tried out the new patch yet.
Please report back if this fix works!
Good luck.
Already had SEN to Off. So that didn't work for me. I think the answer is somewhere in the FF calibration settings. And here's another complaint. I have to leave a session to access those ... So testing things take a long time!!

CRXsi
13-06-2015, 16:09
I am losing my mind!
Gt3 v2, Elite pedals
Finally got ffb etc set last night after several hours. By then I was too tired to race.
Wake up this morning ready to go..WHAT?!?
Can only calibrate 2 of 3 pedals! An hour later after resetting, ps4 on off etc, it fixes itself.
Cool only now L2/R2 don't work so I can't assign any buttons!
Frustrated beyond belief.
Any thoughts?

SlightlyFreckled
13-06-2015, 16:14
I sometimes lose L2/R2 when calibrating the pedals. Don't know if you're having a similar issue.

SlightlyFreckled
13-06-2015, 16:15
Just a quick question. Anyone owns this game on pc that can tell me these issues are present over there or not?

GrimeyDog
13-06-2015, 16:18
Mr dog what do you mean by lock in update please sir?!

Also what fw you running now?

The Update wont Fully apply if you dont Reset... I Had a Great FFB tune before the update i checked and all my numbers were there un changed but the FFB felt Crappy... Do a Reset/ unbind all your wheel settings and the New Update settings will kick in.

Before i reset i had the wheel and in game FFB at 100 and it was weak and lame....after the Reset the Ingame FFB went to 50 and WOW the FFB is Tremendous!!!

im using FW 65 i dont like the off center wheel prob that FW 94 has...im Not using a Xbox1 Hub so i dont need The New update.... i will.wait for the Next FW where the wheel centering issue is fixed.

SlightlyFreckled
13-06-2015, 17:10
I'm just gonna say my wheel is broken. It feels like the rumble motors dissapeared on it. They even stopped working on shift 2. But on the PC software test.. they work. Weird.

Freak66
13-06-2015, 17:14
So before the patch, I had my Turbo S flashed with the CSR firmware. It worked very well, with no deadzone and FF felt good. The downside was buttons layout was screwed up and no access to R1 button.

Flashed to latest PWTS firmware, downloaded patch. First the good stuff, wheel lights up showing PS buttons! Much better. No deadzone, felt about the same as before with the CSR firmware as far as deadzone goes.

Now the bad part. FF is too strong, with the wheel super heavy. But the worst is the wheel shaking whenever I'm driving on a straight line, like some other guys reported before me. It's pretty bad! Wheel shakes violently with the default settings. I played a bit with the settings. I used both soft clip to 5.0 as per someone's suggestion and the shaking goes away, but then the wheel becomes super light with almost no FF. I experimented with different soft clip combinations and couldn't get it to feel right.

I can help but feel disappointed now. I've been mostly positive about this game! I've been running a fun league with 7 other co-workers and everyone is having a blast. I'm the only one with a wheel, but at least 3 of them are considering a wheel. With the G29 and the T300 being $400, they were thinking about a fanatec wheel. I just don't know if that's the right answer though, with so many problems happening and no guarantee that it'll work on GT7.

I'm hoping this shaking when driving straight is something that can be addressed in the settings and we don't have to wait weeks for a new patch!

Same problem.
Did not find settings to solve - Anyone??

waters10
13-06-2015, 19:53
Same problem.
Did not find settings to solve - Anyone??
I haven't read the big thread about settings yet and I haven't done more testing since I last posted.

But here's my suggestion to SMS. I don't think you guys have a Porsche Turbo S wheel with you. If you had, the dead zone issue pre-patch and now this straight line shake would've been apparent in a 30 second test! So, I'm guessing you guys are testing things on a CSR wheel and assuming it would work the same on the Turbo S. Well, it doesn't. Please, make sure you test things on every wheel that is supposed to be supported! I'm doing my best to be polite and constructive, but I'm pretty frustrated to be very honest.

joe_diben
13-06-2015, 20:12
I am losing my mind!
Gt3 v2, Elite pedals
Finally got ffb etc set last night after several hours. By then I was too tired to race.
Wake up this morning ready to go..WHAT?!?
Can only calibrate 2 of 3 pedals! An hour later after resetting, ps4 on off etc, it fixes itself.
Cool only now L2/R2 don't work so I can't assign any buttons!
Frustrated beyond belief.
Any thoughts?

Do your button assignments Before calibrating your pedals. This solves the problem. Just restart the game and it should work

-Brick_Top-
13-06-2015, 20:15
The Update wont Fully apply if you dont Reset... I Had a Great FFB tune before the update i checked and all my numbers were there un changed but the FFB felt Crappy... Do a Reset/ unbind all your wheel settings and the New Update settings will kick in.

Before i reset i had the wheel and in game FFB at 100 and it was weak and lame....after the Reset the Ingame FFB went to 50 and WOW the FFB is Tremendous!!!

im using FW 65 i dont like the off center wheel prob that FW 94 has...im Not using a Xbox1 Hub so i dont need The New update.... i will.wait for the Next FW where the wheel centering issue is fixed.

Thanks m8 much appreciated

Shaftoe
13-06-2015, 20:28
Waters, I have the PTSW. Just bought PC today and at first I did not have the violent shaking problem however it did eventually develop. It feels as if someone is grabbing the wheel and violently turning back and forth until you override it with force. As I did several adjustments in between the race sessions, I do not know what created the problem. I ultimately deleted and reinstalled PC on my PS4 thinking it would reset whichever settings. Unfortunately, I STILL had the shaking. Out of desperation, I started adjusting all of the internal (on wheel) Fanatec wheel settings and was able to fix the problem and now the wheel feels great. I do not know which settings in particular were the fix, but this is my current setup internally on the wheel:

Sen-Off
FFb-100
Sho-10
Dri-002
ABS-100
Lin-000
Dea-000
Spr-000
Dpr-000
Acl-off

Hope that helps

joe_diben
13-06-2015, 20:53
I have a 911 GT3 rs V2 with CSR elite pedals and CSR shifter. I am having a problem with the wheel disconnecting during races. The game then crashes and I get an error code. Is anybody else having the same problem??207683

Goresh
13-06-2015, 20:58
I have a 911 GT3 rs V2 with CSR elite pedals and CSR shifter. I am having a problem with the wheel disconnecting during races. The game then crashes and I get an error code. Is anybody else having the same problem??207683

You have the latest patch? I rather hope not because this very error prompted me to stop using this title.

joe_diben
13-06-2015, 21:05
You have the latest patch? I rather hope not because this very error prompted me to stop using this title.

yeah, i downloaded the patch 1.04 last night. Before the patch i was playing on the DS4 and never encountered this issue. I am not sure if its the wheel im using or what, but its happening very frequently. sometimes i can drive for a while before it happens, other times it occurs only after a few laps.

CrazyKoala29
13-06-2015, 21:25
I have a csr with club sport pedals and this patch has ruined the ffb for me. I've tried using jack of spades settings but they still feel much too weak, even after adjusting tire force. Do I have to create a new profile for the update to be applied?

Sankyo
13-06-2015, 21:39
I'm really not happy. The game still stuffs up and freezes when used with my GT3 after the update. So I decided to take a risk and update the firmware.

Got through the first phase and the program stops responding during the second phase. I hate having to update the firmware to use it with this game. What do I do now? Have I stuffed my wheel? Someone calm me down...
You should try on a different PC/laptop. You should be able to re-initiate the update procedure and flash the wheel without problems.

lethaLEEkill
13-06-2015, 22:28
Same problem.
Did not find settings to solve - Anyone??

i dropped spindle master scale and sop scale down to 12, which seems to work on my gt2

GrimeyDog
13-06-2015, 23:02
Remco Van Dijk why did i get a infraction from you??? Plain and simple there is No PDF that Explains what the Settings do or what the Proceedure would be to properly make the update lock in... this update did Not Lock in automaticaly.... My Comment was Not Offensive/ Insulting it is Correct and just my Opinion...I should not have to spend Hours serching settings with No Clue about what Settings do... paid Full Price For PCars i did Not Get a Beta Tester Discount!!! So i get a Infracton because i want decent instructions about what the settings do...

Before the update My PS4 and PCars Never Froze after the update Major PCars PS4 Freezing issue... Maybe im donig something wrong...it would be Nice to Have Clear instruction PDF.

To Whom i may have Offended i apollogise... Im Not trying to be offensive just voicing my opinion about the Lack of instuctions with PCars.

gotdirt410sprintcar
13-06-2015, 23:14
Remco Van Dijk why did i get a infraction from you??? Plain and simple there is No PDF that Explains what the Settings do or what the Proceedure would be to properly make the update lock in... this update did Not Lock in automaticaly.... My Comment was Not Offensive/ Insulting it is Correct and just my Opinion...I should not have to spend Hours serching settings with No Clue about what Settings do... paid Full Price For PCars i did Not Get a Beta Tester Discount!!! So i get a Infracton because i want decent instructions about what the settings do...

Before the update My PS4 and PCars Never Froze after the update Major PCars PS4 Freezing issue... Maybe im donig something wrong...it would be Nice to Have Clear instruction PDF.

To Whom i may have Offended i apollogise... Im Not trying to be offensive just voicing my opinion about the Lack of instuctions with PCars. DO some researcher I have found stuff here and printed out. Not hard to look around C'MON MAN

Titzon Toast
13-06-2015, 23:22
I have a 911 GT3 rs V2 with CSR elite pedals and CSR shifter. I am having a problem with the wheel disconnecting during races. The game then crashes and I get an error code. Is anybody else having the same problem??207683
I had the same thing happen to me twice tonight.
I took a pic using a potato!
207691

GrimGrnninGhost
14-06-2015, 02:17
Welll, isnt this just wonderful. Prior to 1.4, I was loving the ffb feel on my CSR wheel. Since 1.04 BOTH my CSR and GT3 RS V2 wheel feel like it just a huge center spring wanting to center my wheel with NO other FFB. It should NOt be this difficult to plug a wheel in and enjoy the game

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 03:02
Welll, isnt this just wonderful. Prior to 1.4, I was loving the ffb feel on my CSR wheel. Since 1.04 BOTH my CSR and GT3 RS V2 wheel feel like it just a huge center spring wanting to center my wheel with NO other FFB. It should NOt be this difficult to plug a wheel in and enjoy the game

Go to the Controler Menu press the Triangle button to reset all your Wheel FFB settings to default... That will Lock in the New update sttings... your FFB should Come back and you can Re-program in all your Settings if you Like.

The Error Code Every 1 is getting since the update but.... Start your PS4 with the wheel plugged in...turn the wheel on then Load PCars Press X and Good Luck... Dont let the wheel sit idle for too long or it will disconnect.... Go to Game Menue Screen Re-power the wheel up and Good Luck... Thats whats been working for me in the absence of any Official instructions... its Pot Luck.. LOL Should work though.

Dirt1Fan
14-06-2015, 03:50
Crashed with error.. 3 races... 1lap in ....in a row . good for 5 races now. but hey At least i Don't have to set all the dead zones and sens everytime i reboot the game.! still have wobble on straight and during braking but other than that it feels a lot better / Adjust Fx Fy Fz Mz to 20-60 and start from there

waters10
14-06-2015, 03:53
Waters, I have the PTSW. Just bought PC today and at first I did not have the violent shaking problem however it did eventually develop. It feels as if someone is grabbing the wheel and violently turning back and forth until you override it with force. As I did several adjustments in between the race sessions, I do not know what created the problem. I ultimately deleted and reinstalled PC on my PS4 thinking it would reset whichever settings. Unfortunately, I STILL had the shaking. Out of desperation, I started adjusting all of the internal (on wheel) Fanatec wheel settings and was able to fix the problem and now the wheel feels great. I do not know which settings in particular were the fix, but this is my current setup internally on the wheel:

Sen-Off
FFb-100
Sho-10
Dri-002
ABS-100
Lin-000
Dea-000
Spr-000
Dpr-000
Acl-off

Hope that helps

So the only difference between what you had and I had, was SHO. I had it at 100. I changed it to 10 and it was an improvement, but not completely gone. I'll try to play with the setting some tomorrow.

GrimGrnninGhost
14-06-2015, 04:17
Thanks for the reply. Did all that and still no change. When looking at the FFB graph in the telemetry screen, I feel and see all kinds of FFB when going straight (the yellow line is going like crazy). As soon as I put any pressure in the turn of the wheel, the yellow line goes solid and all I feel is pressure (link compressing a spring). No other feeling at all. If tried a number of things (reflashed firmware, reset wheel setting in game and tried a number of different setting both on the wheel and in game and there is no change. Need help with suggestions or if anyone else is having this issue.

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 04:48
Thanks for the reply. Did all that and still no change. When looking at the FFB graph in the telemetry screen, I feel and see all kinds of FFB when going straight (the yellow line is going like crazy). As soon as I put any pressure in the turn of the wheel, the yellow line goes solid and all I feel is pressure (link compressing a spring). No other feeling at all. If tried a number of things (reflashed firmware, reset wheel setting in game and tried a number of different setting both on the wheel and in game and there is no change. Need help with suggestions or if anyone else is having this issue.

Any Setting that says Damper set it to 0!!! Damper Kills FFB.

GrimGrnninGhost
14-06-2015, 05:12
Any Setting that says Damper set it to 0!!! Damper Kills FFB.

The only setting I had on as "Soft Steering Dampening" was on. I set it to off and I have no ffb at all. What I dont get is if I have the wheel just slightly turned (couple degrees either side of center), I have all the FFB I can handle. I feel the bumps, the road, the cars weight transfer. Once I go beyond that point of a couple degrees of rotation , I lose all feeling of the road and its just a constant pressure with no feel of the car. This is what is SO FRUSTRATING and that its on both of my wheels. I never had this issue prior to 1.4 on my CSR.

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 05:25
if you loose FFB in a Race or if the Race Loads and you dont have FFB back out to the Main Game Screen Shut the wheel off and back on.... load the Race and you should be ok... Im Guessing that because PCars Controls the DOR and when you shut the wheel off during a Race the DOR Cant Load Propperly and it throws up the Eror Message... thats My Guess its been working for me all Night and i Havent gotten the Eror Message... LMAO Were all just Fishing in the Dark ATM.

GrimGrnninGhost
14-06-2015, 05:43
Im not losing ffb all at one. I have had that issue in the past and usually retarting the wheel and ps4 solves that issue

I am understanding a bit more now with the telemetry screen. At speed, if I turn the wheel to the right, the yellow line in the FFB screen) go solid at the top of the graph and when I turn left, It goes to the bottom half of the graph until I relax the pressure. In short, my turning effort is maximizing the ffb resistance thus I lose all feeling of the road. I have tried adjusting the FFB in game, tire force and nothing has an effect on this particular issue. I wish I understood what some of these values mean. I agree that we seem to have to understand what these values mean on our own

TheLethalDose
14-06-2015, 05:49
Is there anyone out there with a GT3 RS V2 that isn't getting the wobbling/shaking wheel problems or has figured out a fix yet?

Rs60
14-06-2015, 06:02
Is there anyone out there with a GT3 RS V2 that isn't getting the wobbling/shaking wheel problems or has figured out a fix yet?

I have that wheel and CSP v1. Prior to update w firmware 756 main issue was dead zone. But did not calibrate didn't set buttons or anything else. Set wheel to 360 and was tolerable. Made changes to ffb settings on specific car as suggested in another post. Xcel sheet with all cars. Sorry can't remember poster, but many thx.

After update, didn't do anything except change wheel sen to 720. All Pcars settings unchanged. Dead zone gone. Ffb wheel weight and curbs etc much stronger. No shaking or anything ugly. Drove for an hour felt great. Have not yet messed with Pcars settings,so,can't comment on any other fixes or issues.

Fong74
14-06-2015, 06:47
Go to the Controler Menu press the Triangle button to reset all your Wheel FFB settings to default... That will Lock in the New update sttings... your FFB should Come back and you can Re-program in all your Settings if you Like.

FFB calibration panel has no triangle-button-reset-to-defaults option. What du you mean?

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 07:04
The Reset button is the Triangle button or what ever button on your wheel isnused for Triagle button... Its on the Controler settings page.

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 07:05
The Reset button is the Triangle button or what ever button on your wheel is used for Triagle button... Its on the Controler settings page.

Cabriojoschy
14-06-2015, 07:39
FFB calibration panel has no triangle-button-reset-to-defaults option. What du you mean?

Fong you´re right, resetting the whole wheel did not affect my FFB settings (same as before the update)

TheLethalDose
14-06-2015, 07:42
Ok, so I messed around with calibrating the wheel vs not calibrating, Jack Spade's FFB tweak vs default as well as the global and GT3 wheel settings.

From my findings, for me it was the SEN setting which causes 90% of the wheel "wobble" from side to side when the wheel is close to centred. It seems the lower you go on SEN, the worse it gets. Set it to OFF and it works like a charm now which is weird because I tried the same thing yesterday and it did nothing. The only thing I can think of that I did differently is turning my PS4 off before trying instead of just being in rest mode, also turned on the wheel before the Playstation.

Would someone else with the wheel shake problem be able to try the above and report back?

Edit: My only other changed wheel settings are Sho: 80, Dri: 02, FF: 80 and Dea: 0

SlightlyFreckled
14-06-2015, 08:05
Ok, so I messed around with calibrating the wheel vs not calibrating, Jack Spade's FFB tweak vs default as well as the global and GT3 wheel settings.

From my findings, for me it was the SEN setting which causes 90% of the wheel "wobble" from side to side when the wheel is close to centred. It seems the lower you go on SEN, the worse it gets. Set it to OFF and it works like a charm now which is weird because I tried the same thing yesterday and it did nothing. The only thing I can think of that I did differently is turning my PS4 off before trying instead of just being in rest mode, also turned on the wheel before the Playstation.

Would someone else with the wheel shake problem be able to try the above and report back?

Edit: My only other changed wheel settings are Sho: 80, Dri: 02, FF: 80 and Dea: 0

Do you get any vibration feedback when throttling/breaking or when driving on rough terrain such as sand?

Sebyrem
14-06-2015, 08:18
Hi,

I have problems with my 911 GT3 RS V2. I use this wheel together with the CSP V1, newest FW on the wheel. I had the known issues before patch 1.4 was installed (huge deadzone, FFB, etc.). It was far away from good but at least I could play the game. With patch 1.4 the game isn't playable anymore. The wheel is recognized correctly, I can calibrate wheel, FFB and pedals (loss of functionality of L2/R2) and the mapping of the buttons is saved.
So far so good. My wheel is shaking like hell when driving straight. I only tested the Clio but it was undriveable. I tried some settings but didn't get better results and didn't continue.

Settings ingame. FFB at the car is 100, rest is default.
Deadzones for steering/brakes/throttle/clutch 0 (I varried steering) sens 50
FFB settings default.
Wheel sens Off, sho 100, abs 90, Rest 0

Any help? Thanks.

Hi I was fronted to same issue and I've discovered that steering dead zone must be at standard so 1. You have to reset all to go back to 1 cause tune only does 5 to 5.

Fong74
14-06-2015, 09:05
The Reset button is the Triangle button or what ever button on your wheel is used for Triagle button... Its on the Controler settings page.

I will check that out and report back. Atm I just reseted a car setup slot and put the same settings (springs, differential, tyre pressures etc.) in, as before. And yes, its different. Slightly, but different. To the better I can say. I Like it!

TheLethalDose
14-06-2015, 10:55
Do you get any vibration feedback when throttling/breaking or when driving on rough terrain such as sand?

Only very small vibration but I'm just happy the wheel isn't trying to rip itself apart now haha.

Titzon Toast
14-06-2015, 11:40
I spent a good hour last night setting up my Turbo-S after the update, I reset everything and then dialed in Jack Spades settings with some of Grimey Dogs settings that he posted a few pages back (thanks Grimey) and I have to say it felt fantastic, I had no deadzone at centre and no wobble in the straights like people with the same wheel are describing.
I have the in-game ffb set at 65% and the wheel SEN set to OFF. I also calibrated my wheel to 900 degrees.

@ Grimey Dog
Would you mind sharing your settings for throttle sensitivity etc please? I'm not sure what to set any of those at, I'm literally a noob at this game because I haven't played it at all since launch day!

joe_diben
14-06-2015, 11:47
Is there anyone out there with a GT3 RS V2 that isn't getting the wobbling/shaking wheel problems or has figured out a fix yet?

My gt3 stays straight as a arrow going down straights. I can let go completely with no wobble

Titzon Toast
14-06-2015, 11:53
Is there anyone out there with a GT3 RS V2 that isn't getting the wobbling/shaking wheel problems or has figured out a fix yet?

Did you try to reset all your wheel settings in-game as someone suggested a page or two back?
I hope you get it sorted man, did I see you at the top of a time trial leaderboard last night by a fairly big margin?! Nice work.

Soundmangt4
14-06-2015, 11:59
I spent a good hour last night setting up my Turbo-S after the update, I reset everything and then dialed in Jack Spades settings with some of Grimey Dogs settings that he posted a few pages back (thanks Grimey) and I have to say it felt fantastic, I had no deadzone at centre and no wobble in the straights like people with the same wheel are describing.
I have the in-game ffb set at 65% and the wheel SEN set to OFF.

@ Grimey Dog
Would you mind sharing your settings for throttle sensitivity etc please? I'm not sure what to set any of those at, I'm literally a noob at this game because I haven't played it at all since launch day!

Any chnace you could poct up all of your force feedback setting, from the calibration menu and what setting you have on the wheel. I use the spreadsheet for the individual car settings, but since the update I can't get my Porsche Turbo S wheel working smoothly or anywhere near as well as prior to the patch!

Titzon Toast
14-06-2015, 12:23
Any chnace you could poct up all of your force feedback setting, from the calibration menu and what setting you have on the wheel. I use the spreadsheet for the individual car settings, but since the update I can't get my Porsche Turbo S wheel working smoothly or anywhere near as well as prior to the patch!

I will gladly do that for you but I can't do it until later on unfortunately.
I'm heading out for a cycle with my son now and my Mrs will go mental if I start setting up my wheel this early in the day!

Soundmangt4
14-06-2015, 12:24
I will gladly do that for you but I can't do it until later on unfortunately.
I'm heading out for a cycle with my son now and my Mrs will go mental if I start setting up my wheel this early in the day!

No problem, enjoy your ride and I shall look forward to trying your setting later! :)

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 12:34
@ Grimey Dog
Would you mind sharing your settings for throttle sensitivity etc please? I'm not sure what to set any of those at, I'm literally a noob at this game because I haven't played it at all since launch day![/QUOTE]

Im using the V2 ... I set all Dead Zone to 0. T, B, C Sensitivity to 50.
Speed sen 0
Danper sat 0

TheLethalDose
14-06-2015, 13:08
Did you try to reset all your wheel settings in-game as someone suggested a page or two back?
I hope you get it sorted man, did I see you at the top of a time trial leaderboard last night by a fairly big margin?! Nice work.

Tried that but as I found out I needed to turn SEN to OFF and restart my playstation.

Ha yeah that would probably be me, I'm looking forward to hopefully improving some of those times now my wheel doesn't have a massive deadzone.

Titzon Toast
14-06-2015, 13:19
Tried that but as I found out I needed to turn SEN to OFF and restart my playstation.

Ha yeah that would probably be me, I'm looking forward to hopefully improving some of those times now my wheel doesn't have a massive deadzone.

Excellent, you've obviously got the pace you need anyway.
Hopefully you can drag all of us up the leaderboards with you too once you get your wheel working properly!
As far as I know the internals in both our wheels are almost identical. If I've managed to cobble together settings that work then they might work for you too.
I'll post everything up here asap.

Titzon Toast
14-06-2015, 13:21
No problem, enjoy your ride and I shall look forward to trying your setting later! :)

Thanks man, consider it done.

Sankyo
14-06-2015, 13:28
Remco Van Dijk why did i get a infraction from you??? Plain and simple there is No PDF that Explains what the Settings do or what the Proceedure would be to properly make the update lock in... this update did Not Lock in automaticaly.... My Comment was Not Offensive/ Insulting it is Correct and just my Opinion...I should not have to spend Hours serching settings with No Clue about what Settings do... paid Full Price For PCars i did Not Get a Beta Tester Discount!!! So i get a Infracton because i want decent instructions about what the settings do...

Before the update My PS4 and PCars Never Froze after the update Major PCars PS4 Freezing issue... Maybe im donig something wrong...it would be Nice to Have Clear instruction PDF.

To Whom i may have Offended i apollogise... Im Not trying to be offensive just voicing my opinion about the Lack of instuctions with PCars.

Your efforts to help others are appreciated. Insulting the devs does not help, however. And yes, writing "Is SMS too stupid to..." is an insult. It is not "correct", nor is it an "opinion", it's an insult.

-Brick_Top-
14-06-2015, 13:37
Your efforts to help others are appreciated. Insulting the devs does not help, however. And yes, writing "Is SMS too stupid to..." is an insult. It is not "correct", nor is it an "opinion", it's an insult.

I will second your comment on just how appreciated his efforts have been. Extremely greatful to him for the posts.

I read that post and just assumed grimey was having a rough time from all his extensive tweaking and testing.

I second his statement that a little more info with regards to resetting things after applying patches etc would be nice.

Grimey get some rest mate your starting to crack!!!

Roll on the weekend and if your are around then you can take your frustration out on me on track while I'm trying your settings

Terry_T
14-06-2015, 14:03
Hi all have a Fanatec GT3 wheel and have everything working quite well since the patch but can anyone tell me what to adjust in game to increase the steering load as more lock is applied.

Kain NL
14-06-2015, 14:20
I'm enjoying Grimey's FFB settings too and I think they're way better then Spades...because Spades settings are based on pc...and as we all know by now...pc settings have more sliders...see Remco's FFB guide pdf. Most of us are normal people who enjoy racing on a console and don't know **** about all those technical terms. If you look at Grimey's pdf, it's a whole other ballgame. He uses simple terms, like curb feel, road feel etc. That's how SMS should have done it....so we all can understand !!!
Looks like Grimey has done more tweaking then most of the wmd people in such a short time !!!

And I also experience more and more crashes and don't likes since the latest patch...Especially now Fanatec also had a Firmware update because of the XOne hub !!!

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 14:23
Thanx Brick Top... Yup im Here Tweekin...Again...LOL... when im Done Tweeking Im Gonna Send you a PDF of my Newest Tweek... I make the Tweek PDF's on my Smart phone...LOL....yup its that easy... ijs... So Here we Go trying to figure out what does what in the Dark again.

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 14:47
Kain NL you ready for me on the track...LOL ....Im Here trying to figure out what they Did...50 in game FFB feels almost like 100 before the update.... Its Not Good...I Have Tweek time Because this is the ONLY Racing Game Out for Next Gen... But that will soon Change...Think im goin back to GT6 for a while. Sorry to say its old last gen but feels better and its Reliable....Its just too Frustrating Tweeking in the Dark because with out Clear instructions... i Paid Full Price I did Not get a Beta Tester Discount... Clear Official SMS instructions on what does what or what has Changed would be Nice.

-Brick_Top-
14-06-2015, 14:51
Im Here trying to figure out what they Did...50 in game FFB feels almost like 100 before the update.... Its Not Good...I Have Tweek time Because this is the ONLY Racing Game Out for Next Gen... But that will soon Change...Think im goin back to GT6 for a while. Sorry to say its old last gen but feels better and its Reliable....Its just too Frustrating Tweeking in the Dark because with out Clear instructions... i Paid Full Price I did Not get a Beta Tester Discount... Clear Official SMS instructions on what does what or what has Changed would be Nice.

actually now you say that I was chatting to a friend that has had to set ffb on fanatec wheel to like 30. The in game ffb doesn't do anything anymore or at least not for him, try yourself set game ffb to 10 it should be exactly the same as 100 if he is correct. Good job fanatec wheels allow you to change it on there. Of course he might not have reset settings or got something wrong somewhere

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 14:56
it Seems that they Re adjusted the FFB Strenth and Changed the Relative adjust Bleed...the Challenge is to get everything Syced back up... Its just a #Game... Hmmm... i dunno if i wanna take the time and do that because there has to be a update to the update because this update is what it is and things may change again... Hmmmm to Tweek or Not to Tweek that is the question... LOL

-Brick_Top-
14-06-2015, 15:09
it Seems that they Re adjusted the FFB Strenth and Changed the Relative adjust Bleed...the Challenge is to get everything Syced back up... Its just a #Game... Hmmm... i dunno if i wanna take the time and do that because there has to be a update to the update because this update is what it is and things may change again... Hmmmm to Tweek or Not to Tweek that is the question... LOL

From a 100% selfish standpoint then tweak!!!
From a head screwed on standpoint then wait. Unless you really want to play the game it might be worth hanging off until all the ffb patches are done.
If the next patch doesn't 100% fix all ffb problems you can still be sure that what changes are made will require the same effort you have already put in. Very frustrating because we all want to just get on and race rather than spending hours of fiddling instead of enjoying the game.

I myself am starting to get little annoyed at the fact I spend far more time on the forum for the game than the game itself

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 15:21
Hmmmm... Remco Van Dijk can you tell me whats the Value for the Main FFB??? Did SMS Do the Main FFB like they did the other Masters that go up to 200???
is 50 = to 100.... or is 50 just 50% of total FFB output? i ask this because 50 feels very Strong and it seems that the FFB is Now Missing the Fidelity it i was able to get from it before the update.... This is Knowledge is Essential to being able to get a good Tweek... Also I dont want to over Drive my wheel with Too High FFB input and Burn it out Prematurely.

GrimGrnninGhost
14-06-2015, 15:55
I am understanding a bit more now with the telemetry screen. At speed, if I turn the wheel to the right, the yellow line in the FFB screen) go solid at the top of the graph and when I turn left, It goes to the bottom half of the graph until I relax the pressure. In short, my turning effort is maximizing the ffb resistance thus I lose all feeling of the road. I have tried adjusting the FFB in game, tire force and nothing has an effect on this particular issue. I wish I understood what some of these values mean. I agree that we seem to have to understand what these values mean on our own

After many hours, I finally have my CSR wheel back to what it was before the update. In short, I'm using Spades tweaks with the following exceptions

1 - The tire force is all the way down to 15!

This is keeping the FFB graph from maxing out on the turns and I can actually feel the bumps and road ffb while turn the wheel
Down side is the overall FFB was really weak

2 - To counteract the lack of overall FFB, I increased the "Master Scale" and "SopScale" from 40 to 65 (this is for the BMW M3 GR.a

making the above setting on my csr wheel has really helped get that feeling back that I was missing since 1.4. As for my GT3RS wheel, I can see on the telemetry that I should be getting the same detail back to the wheel only it feels like its being held back or muffled. It just seems to "tight". Its a new wheel so Im starting to wonder if its a defective wheel as it does not have the same "relaxed" feel like the csr wheel does

waters10
14-06-2015, 15:56
I'm enjoying Grimey's FFB settings too and I think they're way better then Spades...because Spades settings are based on pc...and as we all know by now...pc settings have more sliders...see Remco's FFB guide pdf. Most of us are normal people who enjoy racing on a console and don't know **** about all those technical terms. If you look at Grimey's pdf, it's a whole other ballgame. He uses simple terms, like curb feel, road feel etc. That's how SMS should have done it....so we all can understand !!!
Looks like Grimey has done more tweaking then most of the wmd people in such a short time !!!

And I also experience more and more crashes and don't likes since the latest patch...Especially now Fanatec also had a Firmware update because of the XOne hub !!!

I can't find Grimey's settings anywhere. Can someone kindly link it here? I looked at his history and still couldn't find it ...

SlightlyFreckled
14-06-2015, 16:07
After many hours, I finally have my CSR wheel back to what it was before the update. In short, I'm using Spades tweaks with the following exceptions

1 - The tire force is all the way down to 15!

This is keeping the FFB graph from maxing out on the turns and I can actually feel the bumps and road ffb while turn the wheel
Down side is the overall FFB was really weak

2 - To counteract the lack of overall FFB, I increased the "Master Scale" and "SopScale" from 40 to 65 (this is for the BMW M3 GR.a

making the above setting on my csr wheel has really helped get that feeling back that I was missing since 1.4. As for my GT3RS wheel, I can see on the telemetry that I should be getting the same detail back to the wheel only it feels like its being held back or muffled. It just seems to "tight". Its a new wheel so Im starting to wonder if its a defective wheel as it does not have the same "relaxed" feel like the csr wheel does

My wheel is nearly a month old but I barely used it because I waited for the updated. Only played on Shift 2. I do experience the issue in project C only. Sometimes its so tight I cant turn as if someone was pulling the wheel back to center.(GT3)

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 16:59
Waters i will Post them again for you... im Re-working the PDF... I Have to Make adjustments because of the update...

Brick Top your Comment pointed me in the Right Direction!!! I knew they Re Adjusted the Master FFB but it Never Crossed My Mind that they Made 50 = 100% FFB like it is in the Car tune menu where the Sliders go to 200... I Have asked Remco if he can tell me what the Values are and im waiting for his answer.... Maybe he Does Not Know either...but in any case ive Lowered the Game Master FFB to 35 and its still VERY Strong so i think 50= 100%FFB....But that Good Feel i had before Seems to be coming back with a Lower Game Master FFB #.... I Dont Know how much or if they changed Relative adjust bleed but im making Progress.

waters10
14-06-2015, 17:07
Waters i will Pist them again for you... im Re-working the PDF... I Have to Make adjustments because of the update...

Brick Top your Comment pointed me in the Right Direction!!! I knew they Re Adjusted the Master FFB but it Never Crossed My Mind that they Made 50 = 100% FFB like it is in the Car tune menu where the Sliders go to 200... I Have asked Remco if he can tell me what the Values are and im waiting for his answer.... Maybe he Does Not Know either...but in any case ive Lowered the Game Master FFB to 35 and its still VERY Strong so i think 50= 100%FFB....But that Good Feel i had before Seems to be coming back with a Lower Game Master FFB #.... I Dont Know how much or if they changed Relative adjust bleed but im making Progress.

Sounds good! I really appreciate when people tweak the hell of the settings, cause I'll be honest, I don't have the patience.

One thing I just noticed. There's a huge difference between soft clipping half input from 4.5 to 5.0. At 5.0, the wheel feels completely dead. At 4.5, it's much heavier, but unfortunately the shaking is still there ...

Freak66
14-06-2015, 17:34
@waters10. you have got the Turbo S too - right?
I am using the PWTS firmware now (before patch the CSD FW), do you use the CSR firmware on your Turbo S?

Because my Turbo S is working really bad after the patch and settings above dont help.
Strange is that turning the wheel to the left has strong resistance, turning it to the right nearly no restistance.
I am really crushed - the patch made it worse - cant believe it.

Sankyo
14-06-2015, 17:46
Hmmmm... Remco Van Dijk can you tell me whats the Value for the Main FFB??? Did SMS Do the Main FFB like they did the other Masters that go up to 200???
is 50 = to 100.... or is 50 just 50% of total FFB output? i ask this because 50 feels very Strong and it seems that the FFB is Now Missing the Fidelity it i was able to get from it before the update.... This is Knowledge is Essential to being able to get a good Tweek... Also I dont want to over Drive my wheel with Too High FFB input and Burn it out Prematurely.
Main FFB values is just simply 100 = full FFB, anything less is reduced FFB output. No 'overdrive' settings :)

Mascot
14-06-2015, 17:50
I spent three hours today inputting Jack Spade's 'classic' FFB settings on every car listed (ie all except the latest DLC).
On the cars I've tested (mostly GT) it seems to have cured the earthquake effect that was threatening to break my thumbs and shake my GT2 to bits.

-Brick_Top-
14-06-2015, 17:55
Main FFB values is just simply 100 = full FFB, anything less is reduced FFB output. No 'overdrive' settings :)

Have you tested this on ps4 because at 10% it feels the same as 100% according to my buddy

Titzon Toast
14-06-2015, 18:07
@waters10. you have got the Turbo S too - right?
I am using the PWTS firmware now (before patch the CSD FW), do you use the CSR firmware on your Turbo S?

Because my Turbo S is working really bad after the patch and settings above dont help.
Strange is that turning the wheel to the left has strong resistance, turning it to the right nearly no restistance.
I am really crushed - the patch made it worse - cant believe it.

I'm using the Turbo-S with 756fw, it seemed fairly sweet to me last night.

Freak66
14-06-2015, 19:32
I'm using the Turbo-S with 756fw, it seemed fairly sweet to me last night.

Turbo S 756fw or CSR 756fw?
I am thinking of trying the CSR 756fw.

Is there anything special you do, like a special procedure for connecting your Turbo S?

waters10
14-06-2015, 19:35
@waters10. you have got the Turbo S too - right?
I am using the PWTS firmware now (before patch the CSD FW), do you use the CSR firmware on your Turbo S?

Because my Turbo S is working really bad after the patch and settings above dont help.
Strange is that turning the wheel to the left has strong resistance, turning it to the right nearly no restistance.
I am really crushed - the patch made it worse - cant believe it.

Turbo S with Turbo S firmware. I had CSR firmware, but I flashed it back as soon as I heard the patch was released.

Freak66
14-06-2015, 19:40
Turbo S with Turbo S firmware. I had CSR firmware, but I flashed it back as soon as I heard the patch was released.

Damn, I have no idea what is going on with my Turbo S - and no idea what to try next?

Titzon Toast
14-06-2015, 21:18
Right lads, I just did ten laps each around Laguna Seca and Senoma GP and my wheel felt lovely.
Here's all of my settings, lots of Grimey Dog's stuff and Jack Spades FY+SopLat settings on a BMW Z4GT3. No assists, a freshly calibrated Turbo-S set at 900 degrees, and an uncalibrated set of CSP v1's.

Tyre force 100
FFB 60
Link Stiff 1.0
Link Damp 1.0
Relative adjust gain. 0.98
Relative adjust bleed. 0.75
Relative adjust clamp. 0.96
Scoop knee. 0.75
Scoop reduction. 0.10

All deadzones at 0
All sensitivity at 50 for steering, throttle, brakes and clutch.
Input type 3
Advance on
All three below that set to OFF.

WHEEL SETTINGS
SEN. Off
FFB. 100
SHO. 0
DRI. Off
ABS. 75
LIN. 0
DEA. 0
SPR. 2
DRP 0.
ACL. Off

That's pretty much everything, the car was stock too except for Jack Spade's ffb settings as mentioned above.
I tapped this out on my phone, that's why it's a bit of a mess.
I hope these settings help out.

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 21:24
Have you tested this on ps4 because at 10% it feels the same as 100% according to my buddy

I Agree 100%!!! im using 35 and it Feels the same as before the update abd i Had it at 75!!! Ya Know what that Means... We Back on Track Grimey Dog FFB PDF soon!!!

GBRC.C7
14-06-2015, 21:44
Guys, can I get some help here. It's to all of our advantage.


See this thread, because until we get this broken down into separate threads none of us will get the support we are looking for. It'll make it simpler for SMS too.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?31340-FANATEC-TECHNICAL-SUPPORT

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 21:45
Uuuugh when i Look at my Profile i Have over 1000 miles in Different Cars and over 100hrs and thats Just Tweek Time!!! PCars Has Major Potential... The Track Selection is Great!!! If i Had a FFB Blue Print it would be Sooo Easy!!! I like the Game but its Frustrating tuning in the Dark... It took 1 Month for me to perfect my FFB Tune and Now things Have Changed and its like Starting over New almost.

Thanks to Brick Top i See what i was Missing...Default FFB is 50 but I think that its equal to 100% FFB and the other 50 is Over Drive FFB!!! i Need to test more but when i went to 35 i Started getting the Fidelity and Good feel Back...Im going out and Have a Few at a BBQ to avoid Tuning Burn out but and will be Back before the week is out with a FFB Tune PDF.

yup and My Tune = Good Lap Times i Tune for Road and Car Feel!!! this time is with just a wheel tune!!! No tuning was Done on Car suspension.... Aaaah ha ha Haaa!!!

GrimeyDog
14-06-2015, 21:51
Look on you tube for my PCars Catch the Slide Video...i Had the FFB so that you Could Counter Steer Perfectly....and Keep your Hot Lap!!!! The FFB was there you just had to tweek it out... I Dunno if its still there ...i Hope So...But i gotta Re-Tweek to Find it all over again.... Maybe.... If its there.... I Hope So... Time & Tweeking Will Tell.

lethaLEEkill
14-06-2015, 21:53
This game just destroyed my wheel! !!:mad: coming out of the pit at bathurst ,as soon as my wheel kicked in it violently swung left with such force it snapped something inside the wheel leaving it loose and lifeless. Very disappointed just bought ps4 and cs shifter for this game, now there going to be dust collectors until god knows when I can afford a new one. The amount of stress put on this wheel since the release of this game really has been unacceptable and I have been waiting for something to give, and what do you know a thousand dollars down the drain! I didn't even get to start a career in over 6 weeks! ! I can't express my frustration enough! !!

Kain NL
14-06-2015, 21:58
The values MUST have been changed...no one noticed the Default setting is 50 now in stead of 100 !!
I've changed the tire forces to 70 and in game FFB to 40...but still isn't what it was before patch.

-Brick_Top-
14-06-2015, 22:04
This game just destroyed my wheel! !!:mad: coming out of the pit at bathurst ,as soon as my wheel kicked in it violently swung left with such force it snapped something inside the wheel leaving it loose and lifeless. Very disappointed just bought ps4 and cs shifter for this game, now there going to be dust collectors until god knows when I can afford a new one. The amount of stress put on this wheel since the release of this game really has been unacceptable and I have been waiting for something to give, and what do you know a thousand dollars down the drain! I didn't even get to start a career in over 6 weeks! ! I can't express my frustration enough! !!

Really sorry to hear that bro what wheel was it?

lethaLEEkill
14-06-2015, 22:06
Really sorry to hear that bro what wheel was it?

fanatec gt2

Freak66
14-06-2015, 22:12
Right lads, I just did ten laps each around Laguna Seca and Senoma GP and my wheel felt lovely.
Here's all of my settings, lots of Grimey Dog's stuff and Jack Spades FY+SopLat settings on a BMW Z4GT3. No assists, a freshly calibrated Turbo-S set at 900 degrees, and an uncalibrated set of CSP v1's.

Tyre force 100
FFB 60
Link Stiff 1.0
Link Damp 1.0
Relative adjust gain. 0.98
Relative adjust bleed. 0.75
Relative adjust clamp. 0.96
Scoop knee. 0.75
Scoop reduction. 0.10

All deadzones at 0
All sensitivity at 50 for steering, throttle, brakes and clutch.
Input type 3
Advance on
All three below that set to OFF.

WHEEL SETTINGS
SEN. Off
FFB. 100
SHO. 0
DRI. Off
ABS. 75
LIN. 0
DEA. 0
SPR. 2
DRP 0.
ACL. Off

That's pretty much everything, the car was stock too except for Jack Spade's ffb settings as mentioned above.
I tapped this out on my phone, that's why it's a bit of a mess.
I hope these settings help out.

Thank you very much - it feels better now.
But how do you "calibrated Turbo-S set at 900 degrees"?
Do you mean turning the wheel till the end at the wheel caibration in the controll settings in step 1?
I did that.

By the way it seems I am getting mad:
FF on wheel setting to 100: strong resistance when turning to the right
FF on wheel setting to 10: strong resistance when turning to the left
FF on wheel setting to 50: strong resistance when turning to the left AND right

W H A T ?????

Kain NL
14-06-2015, 22:12
Also another nice feature...NOT... try taking a picture with the XOne hub on PS4 PCars version...

Titzon Toast
14-06-2015, 22:26
Thank you very much - it feels better now.
But how do you "calibrated Turbo-S set at 900 degrees"?
Do you mean turning the wheel till the end at the wheel caibration in the controll settings in step 1?
I did that.

By the way it seems I am getting mad:
FF on wheel setting to 100: strong resistance when turning to the right
FF on wheel setting to 10: strong resistance when turning to the left
FF on wheel setting to 50: strong resistance when turning to the left AND right

W H A T ?????
I calibrated the wheel rotation in game to 900 degrees.
The SEN on the wheel itself is set to OFF.

Titzon Toast
14-06-2015, 22:49
Sorry to hear that man, that blows.

waters10
15-06-2015, 00:21
Right lads, I just did ten laps each around Laguna Seca and Senoma GP and my wheel felt lovely.
Here's all of my settings, lots of Grimey Dog's stuff and Jack Spades FY+SopLat settings on a BMW Z4GT3. No assists, a freshly calibrated Turbo-S set at 900 degrees, and an uncalibrated set of CSP v1's.

Tyre force 100
FFB 60
Link Stiff 1.0
Link Damp 1.0
Relative adjust gain. 0.98
Relative adjust bleed. 0.75
Relative adjust clamp. 0.96
Scoop knee. 0.75
Scoop reduction. 0.10

All deadzones at 0
All sensitivity at 50 for steering, throttle, brakes and clutch.
Input type 3
Advance on
All three below that set to OFF.

WHEEL SETTINGS
SEN. Off
FFB. 100
SHO. 0
DRI. Off
ABS. 75
LIN. 0
DEA. 0
SPR. 2
DRP 0.
ACL. Off

That's pretty much everything, the car was stock too except for Jack Spade's ffb settings as mentioned above.
I tapped this out on my phone, that's why it's a bit of a mess.
I hope these settings help out.
These didn't work for me. I still have violent shake in some situations. Not all the time, but it's still there. I didn't change anything per car, so that may be it. Which sucks, cause now I'm gonna have to tweak per car settings! :mad:



This game just destroyed my wheel! !!:mad: coming out of the pit at bathurst ,as soon as my wheel kicked in it violently swung left with such force it snapped something inside the wheel leaving it loose and lifeless. Very disappointed just bought ps4 and cs shifter for this game, now there going to be dust collectors until god knows when I can afford a new one. The amount of stress put on this wheel since the release of this game really has been unacceptable and I have been waiting for something to give, and what do you know a thousand dollars down the drain! I didn't even get to start a career in over 6 weeks! ! I can't express my frustration enough! !!
Dude, that sucks ... I'd consider contacting somebody to discuss this. Not sure if you can get anything, but I'd try.

Before I start losing my mind, is there any chance of a quick hot fix for this patch?? I never felt that frustrated when the game launched with bugs, cause I knew a patch would fix things. But to finally get the patch and see the current status of this game is disheartening! So much potential ...

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 00:56
Im willing to bet that they Made the Game FFB Master that 50 = 100% FFB... Like they did with the in Car FFB settings that go to 200... 50 is just Too Strong!!! The V2 Handles it but its un-drivable with such Strong unprecise FFB!!! i cut my Game FFB Down to 35 and it feels like before the update when i had it set to 75....SMH... All these Problems could be solved with a Official PDF and a Change Log of what has changed for every update... IE: what 50 on the master is equal to.... We assume that 50 is 50% But i dont believe that to be the case... 50 is too Strong and has No Fidelity but at 35 things seem to be closer to what it originaly was and it seems Tweekable.... Sorry to hear about your wheel dude.

Coyote50
15-06-2015, 02:10
Hey Yall. I've got a GT3RS and tried the settings mentioned in the post http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?30820-Patch-1-4-FFB-reports/page23&highlight=Tire+force here and it seems to work well. Reading through the PC thread it looks like there is a typo in the master tire force and spindle settings. HTH

Mascot
15-06-2015, 07:32
Hey Yall. I've got a GT3RS and tried the settings mentioned in the post http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?30820-Patch-1-4-FFB-reports/page23&highlight=Tire+force here and it seems to work well. Reading through the PC thread it looks like there is a typo in the master tire force and spindle settings. HTH

Your link takes me to a page. Can you please link to the actual post? (click the # in the top right of the post)

Linx
15-06-2015, 07:44
For those not experiencing good FFB. Before the patch I tried multiple FFB settings. Jack Spade's settings did nothing for me though it did work for some. I'm running regular CSR with CSR Elite pedals. I ended up trying Grimey Dogs settings and that's giving me the best FFB. After patch the FFB was extremely heavy and the feeling of traction loss and rumble strips was there but very light. I reset the FFB in main menu and cars tune. Went back and put in Grimey Dogs settings again and now it feels even better. I feel everything and bumps from other cars is strongly felt. I did have the issue of shaky wheel in straights but after running a few races it seems to be going away. It's still there but not like when I first updated. . Out of the different games I've raced, this is the first time I've found that I have to turn my FFB settings down from 100 to 70. Also what I found made a big difference on my CSR is to turn SPR and DPR off. Not by turning it down to 0 but going beyond that. Go down to - 4 and after that it turns off. Check out Grimey Dogs settings. He has a pdf of it somewhere on this forum. Sorry I don't have a link for you.

Titzon Toast
15-06-2015, 07:55
These didn't work for me. I still have violent shake in some situations. Not all the time, but it's still there. I didn't change anything per car, so that may be it. Which sucks, cause now I'm gonna have to tweak per car settings! :mad:



Dude, that sucks ... I'd consider contacting somebody to discuss this. Not sure if you can get anything, but I'd try.

Before I start losing my mind, is there any chance of a quick hot fix for this patch?? I never felt that frustrated when the game launched with bugs, cause I knew a patch would fix things. But to finally get the patch and see the current status of this game is disheartening! So much potential ...
I'd definitely recommend tuning ffb settings for the car alright. That's why I said what car I was using and what version of the settings I was using for it.
The stock settings are fairly all over the place from what I gather.
Give them a try man.

john0
15-06-2015, 09:42
I don't really have time to read through the whole thread to see if these bugs have already been reported, but just wanted to put this here anyway.

Setup:
Fanatec CSR-Elite
Fanatec CSR-Elite Pedals (plugged into wheel)

Steps to replicate:
Turn on wheel. Put wheel into PC mode. Turn on PS4. Load up PCars. Go straight into career mode, Forumla Rookie, Oulton Park practice session (specific mode / car / track almost certainly not important, but wanted to be as detailed as possible).

Problems:
1) Sometimes the FFB is very "light" and lacking in detailed feedback. Sometimes quitting out of the session and going into free practice fixes this. Sometimes it requires one (or more) tries of turning everything off and turning it back on again.
2) Sometimes my pedals aren't recognised (as in one, or both, of the accelerator and brakes don't do anything). This requires a full restart of everything to fix.

Can anyone tell me if this is the best thread to report this in? Or if these are known issues and being looked into?

I must say though, when I don't get these issues, the FFB took a big leap forward with the patch. When it works, it really works!

Mascot
15-06-2015, 09:51
Important note for the devs. Hope it doesn't get lost in the fud.

I *think* the total loss of FFB that periodically happens coincides with interacting with the DS4 for things like responding to invites, reading messages, or even (as happened last night) plugging a headset in.

Can others here do some experimenting and see what you think? This might help us to isolate the problem and give SMS a better chance to replicate it.

john0
15-06-2015, 09:57
Ah that's an interesting theory! Will try some experimenting around that next time I get the chance.

Kain NL
15-06-2015, 10:17
Best way to save the FFB settings is PER CAR in garage BEFORE TRAINING OR QUALIFYING. That way it's only saved to that car on that track.
If you do it in standard garage, you'll put EVERY OTHER settings on that car on every track...so also camber, toe, suspension etc...
Lot of work for nothing....Also applying settings before you go racing is less frustrating!

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 11:30
I thought the Stock car tunes were different per track but their Not....I was Doing the FFB Settings Per Car and Per Track but Now i do save All... I took pics of the cars settings then Loaded that car to 5 or so totaly diff tracks and the Car settings werenall the same. Now i have a Basic Car FFB that works with all Cars so i just tune FFB in my Garrage and Save all.... Only when your Tweeking Suspention for a specific track do you need to Save the Tweek track by Track.

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 11:38
I think i Have My Tune Ready to Post...I Need to Test 1 More thing the Relative adjust Bleed then it will be ready to Go....I have to figure out if they Changed the Relative adjust bleed Value like they did the in Game Master FFB... I think they set it so 50 =100% and anything past 51 is FFB Overdrive... thats why People are getting sooo Much FFB Clipping after the update.

Kain NL you have My FFB Tweek Try it with the as it is But set the Master FFB to 35 and see if it feels thenSame as it was... Set the Relative adjust bleed to 75 or 85 and See if its Back to Norm... if you cant i will test and post when i get off work. Thanx Let me Know what you think if you able to test it.

Sankyo
15-06-2015, 12:15
For all of those who have problems: please try your best to describe repro steps, game and wheel configuration, in-game settings and problem symptoms. From the current postings/reports we can't even distill whether people just don't like the stronger default FFB, or that there are genuine issues. Please be concise but complete in your reports!

I know that the game should be working with no issues, but when reporting issues please try and make it as clear as possible what the issue is so we can actually confirm the issue, or where the issue is. Thank you for helping!

lethaLEEkill
15-06-2015, 12:24
For all of those who have problems: please try your best to describe repro steps, game and wheel configuration, in-game settings and problem symptoms. From the current postings/reports we can't even distill whether people just don't like the stronger default FFB, or that there are genuine issues. Please be concise but complete in your reports!

I know that the game should be working with no issues, but when reporting issues please try and make it as clear as possible what the issue is so we can actually confirm the issue, or where the issue is. Thank you for helping!

my issue is i no longer have a wheel to use as this games ffb snapped something inside my wheel so it free spins left and locks back to the right after 90 deg no matter how many times i rotate it to the left(please say this is fixable):mad:

mallenium
15-06-2015, 12:51
@Remco: It has nothing to do with "liking the FFB seetings".
The wheel kicks violently in a straight line - even if you turn the FFB down (it has nothing to do with the vibration motor, it is the FFB).
I quit after 2 laps at nordschleife because the GT2 wheel was really struggling.
PCars will spoil or kill the fanatec GT2 wheel after time! At least with the default setting.

Don't get me wrong I appreciate, that the Fanatec wheel is now actually detected as a WHEEL, but I really don't unterstand why SMS isn't capable of delevering a decent default setup.

It shouldn't be necassary to have a diploma in enginnering, to get right settings for a game!, ESPECIALLY for console users.

Sankyo
15-06-2015, 13:13
@Remco: It has nothing to do with "liking the FFB seetings".
The wheel kicks violently in a straight line - even if you turn the FFB down (it has nothing to do with the vibration motor, it is the FFB).
I quit after 2 laps at nordschleife because the GT2 wheel was really struggling.
PCars will spoil or kill the fanatec GT2 wheel after time! At least with the default setting.

Don't get me wrong I appreciate, that the Fanatec wheel is now actually detected as a WHEEL, but I really don't unterstand why SMS isn't capable of delevering a decent default setup.

It shouldn't be necassary to have a diploma in enginnering, to get right settings for a game!, ESPECIALLY for console users.
Did you reset your FFB settings after the patch?

waters10
15-06-2015, 13:39
@Remco: It has nothing to do with "liking the FFB seetings".
The wheel kicks violently in a straight line - even if you turn the FFB down (it has nothing to do with the vibration motor, it is the FFB).
I quit after 2 laps at nordschleife because the GT2 wheel was really struggling.
PCars will spoil or kill the fanatec GT2 wheel after time! At least with the default setting.

Don't get me wrong I appreciate, that the Fanatec wheel is now actually detected as a WHEEL, but I really don't unterstand why SMS isn't capable of delevering a decent default setup.

It shouldn't be necassary to have a diploma in enginnering, to get right settings for a game!, ESPECIALLY for console users.
Same for me.

Porsche Turbo S. Driving in a straight line, low or high speed, if I center the wheel, it keeps rotating rapidly left and right 15-20 degrees or so, with a significant force. If I hold the wheel off-center even a couple of degrees, it stops. It's very clear that it only happens when the wheel is centered. I noticed that in some cars like the Formula C, it even happens with the car stopped at the start of a race! As soon as the grid loads, my wheel starts going left and right. I have to rotate a few degrees either way to stop that. I hope this is clear enough.

I tried different settings in the Force Feedback calibration screen and at the wheel. I have not tried changes per car yet.

mallenium
15-06-2015, 13:46
Did you reset your FFB settings after the patch?
Yes I did.

Using Gt2 firmware 756.

Bunyip_McLuvin
15-06-2015, 13:58
Committed a full 9-10hrs today to work out some decent FFB settings.

Ive been using the Jack Spade classic setup guide but changing 2 items on all setups
- MASTER SCALE = 4.0
- SoP SCALE = 10.0

The FFB strength is weaker than i would like but the wheel isnt dying anymore and its just within range before clipping starts.
I'd like to get more road feel through the FFB but this will do for now

was able to start a carrer today confidently with these settings

Mascot
15-06-2015, 13:59
Yes I did.

Using Gt2 firmware 756.

Using Jack Spades FFB settings cured exactly the same problem for me. PS4, GT2. Give it a go.

Titzon Toast
15-06-2015, 13:59
I think i Have My Tune Ready to Post...I Need to Test 1 More thing the Relative adjust Bleed then it will be ready to Go....I have to figure out if they Changed the Relative adjust bleed Value like they did the in Game Master FFB... I think they set it so 50 =100% and anything past 51 is FFB Overdrive... thats why People are getting sooo Much FFB Clipping after the update.

Kain NL you have My FFB Tweek Try it with the as it is But set the Master FFB to 35 and see if it feels thenSame as it was... Set the Relative adjust bleed to 75 or 85 and See if its Back to Norm... if you cant i will test and post when i get off work. Thanx Let me Know what you think if you able to test it.

I can't wait to try your new settings out man.
Thank you.

Freak66
15-06-2015, 13:59
I calibrated the wheel rotation in game to 900 degrees.
The SEN on the wheel itself is set to OFF.

Sry, still dont get it: in the in game wheel calibration you have step 1 "rotate wheel as far as possible" and step 2 "rotate 90 degrees".
You rotate your wheel until 900 degrees in step1 - correct?

gruzzlebeard
15-06-2015, 14:06
I rotated in step 1 to a value of 99 - more was not possible. I tried it clock and anti-clock wise. Two days before it went to 100 :confused:.
In step 2 I rotated 90 degrees which reflected 960 Degrees at the screen :confused:

I don't know if this was correct but at the end of the day it didnt feel wrong :cool:

Bruno Alexandre
15-06-2015, 14:07
Sry, still dont get it: in the in game wheel calibration you have step 1 "rotate wheel as far as possible" and step 2 "rotate 90 degrees".
You rotate your wheel until 900 degrees in step1 - correct?

Calibration works like this:
Step 1- Move the wheel all the way to the left and/or right until it reaches 100, center the wheel again and move to step 2
Step 2- Move the wheel 90º to left or right and hold it like that while you select Finish

Note: If the wheel doesn't give you 100% on step 1, it means it's not properly aligned. You can either move to the opposite side in order to reach 100 or calibrate it properly within the wheel software.

gruzzlebeard
15-06-2015, 14:14
Calibration works like this:
Step 1- Move the wheel all the way to the left and/or right until it reaches 100 and move to step 2
Step 2- Move the wheel 90º to left or right and hold it like that while you select Finish

Thanks Bruno - that's what I did - so no need to focus on the degrees shown on the screen, I just turned it 90 degree.

Don't know if it is important that you get fully 100 points in step 1. I guess I will not loose my driver license if I just can reach 99 :friendly_wink:

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 14:31
Personally i think the FFB has Been turned up Way Too Much!!! PCars Game Physics and Wheel FFB was Definitly there before the update. I was Running in Game FFB at 75 and 100% on the V2 Wheel and it was More that Enough... The Rumble Strips and Curbs would try and Rip the wheel from your Hands!!!

The Problem was and Still is you have to get a Good FFB Tweek to Bring out the Different FFB effects. The FFB Strength Means Very Little...the ability to Feel Subtle Changes within the FFB is what Creates a Good Racing Sim or Wheel FFB Set up... and Yes we are still Missing a Official SMS PDF or Instructions that Describe what Effects all of these Settings Have... Also Still Missing is a Change Log so that we Know exactly what Values Have Changed... IE: Game Master FFB what is 50 = to...is it 100% FFB??? or is it 50%FFB??? We dont Know for sure because the in Car Tune Sliders go Up to 200.... This is All impotant info we Need to Have to Adjust Settings Propperly to Avoid FFB Clipping and Damage to our Wheels due to Excessive FFB input.

The Majic all Happens around the Relative adjust Bleed which is Still being Described as a "Time Value" for bleeding torque torque back in... This is False!!! Relative adjust Bleed is the amount / #% of torque that will be Bled off to create Changes in Wheel Weight to Produce Road Feel, Loss of Grip, Weight Tranfer ETC.... It this was a "Time" based setting every one would pick 0 because well all want instant FFB... But if you set it to 0 you will Have Absolute torque/Wheel weight all the Time... IE: No FFB Effects Feel.

Once i figure out what changes have been made with the Relative adjust Bleed Tuning will be easy.

I suggest that every 1 Start off with their FFB settings at 35 and + or - to find Correct wheel weight/FFB level that you like and then Start the Relative adjust Bleed at 75 to 85 and + or - until you get the wheel where you are comfortable with Road and Car feel.... These Numbers are Not Exact but these are a Good Starting point Based on my Last FFB tune.... also Turn all Damping and Smoothing to 0 as these 2 settings Negate FFB effects.

Before the update I Had PCars FFB on Par with the Feel of Assetto Corsa.... Personaly i thought it was better in alot of ways!!! The FFB was Very Precise Sharp and Crisp.

The Wheel Oscillation/ Shaking issue in F1 cars can be Cured by Turning the "MZ" Setting to 10 or Below... Thats How i Stopped that before the update... Hopefully it still works.... The Regular, Gt and P1 cars Had No Wheel Oscillation/Shakng issue before the update.... Shrugggs

Islandlad77
15-06-2015, 15:39
Personally i think the FFB has Been turned up Way Too Much!!! PCars Game Physics and Wheel FFB was Definitly there before the update. I was Running in Game FFB at 75 and 100% on the V2 Wheel and it was More that Enough... The Rumble Strips and Curbs would try and Rip the wheel from your Hands!!!

The Problem was and Still is you have to get a Good FFB Tweek to Bring out the Different FFB effects. The FFB Strength Means Very Little...the ability to Feel Subtle Changes within the FFB is what Creates a Good Racing Sim or Wheel FFB Set up.

The Majic all Happens around the Relative adjust Bleed which is Still being Described as a "Time Value" for bleeding torque torque back in... This is False!!! Relative adjust Bleed is the amount / #% of torque that will be Bled off to create Changes in Wheel Weight to Produce Road Feel, Loss of Grip, Weight Tranfer ETC.... Once i figure out what changes have been made with the Relative adjust Bleed Tuning will be easy.

I suggest that every 1 Start off with their FFB settings at 35 and + or - to find Correct wheel weight/FFB level that you like and then Start the Relative adjust Bleed at 75 to 85 and + or - until you get the wheel where you are comfortable with Road and Car feel.... These Numbers are Not Exact but these are a Good Starting point Based on my Last FFB tune.... also Turn all Damping and Smoothing to 0 as these 2 settings Negate FFB effects.

Before the update I Had PCars FFB on Par with the Feel of Assetto Corsa.... Personaly i thought it was better in alot of ways!!! The FFB was Very Precise Sharp and Crisp.

The Wheel Oscillation/ Shaking issue in F1 cars can be Cured by Turning the "MZ" Setting to 10 or Below... Thats How i Stopped that before the update... Hopefully it still works.... The Regular, Gt and P1 cars Had No Wheel Oscillation/Shakng issue before the update.... Shrugggs

Grimey, can you tell me how to reset force feedback settings on wheel calibration screen please.
Then I can start from scratch and try what you suggested above.
I've spent hours trying to get to the point where I feel connected to the car, with no luck and patience running thin.

Thanks for all your input on this thread by the way.
Steve

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 15:53
Go to the Controler page thats yhe same page wheel, Pedal Calibration is on and Push the Reset Button on PS4 its the Button that Represents the Triangle... But it should say Reset also.

Sankyo
15-06-2015, 15:55
Calibration works like this:
Step 1- Move the wheel all the way to the left and/or right until it reaches 100 and move to step 2
Step 2- Move the wheel 90º to left or right and hold it like that while you select Finish
Don't forget to turn your wheel to center after step 1 though.

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 16:40
Islandlad77 No Prob im Glad i Can Help... I Love Racing Sims... PCars Has Great potential with one of if Not the Best track Line up to date ... I just Hope SMS is Dedicated and Committed to getting PCars working Right... But Most importantly they gotta get it Right before the PCars Fan Base Loose interest.

Davolaa919
15-06-2015, 16:59
Same for me.

Porsche Turbo S. Driving in a straight line, low or high speed, if I center the wheel, it keeps rotating rapidly left and right 15-20 degrees or so, with a significant force. If I hold the wheel off-center even a couple of degrees, it stops. It's very clear that it only happens when the wheel is centered. I noticed that in some cars like the Formula C, it even happens with the car stopped at the start of a race! As soon as the grid loads, my wheel starts going left and right. I have to rotate a few degrees either way to stop that. I hope this is clear enough.

I tried different settings in the Force Feedback calibration screen and at the wheel. I have not tried changes per car yet.
Turn your master scale down in the tuning I had the same issue it was rubbish but now it's cool! Turn it down to 20or less that helps!

rotcock
15-06-2015, 17:23
Using Jack Spades FFB settings cured exactly the same problem for me. PS4, GT2. Give it a go.

Same here. Also ps4 and fanatec gt2. Jack spade and wootball to the rescue. Thx.

Btw I 'm also a victim of the periodically total loss of FFB and multiple system crashes

waters10
15-06-2015, 17:42
Turn your master scale down in the tuning I had the same issue it was rubbish but now it's cool! Turn it down to 20or less that helps!
I'll try that and also some of the Jack Spades settings tonight. I still think that the wheel should work properly right off the bat and you'd tweak settings to customize the feel. But if it at least works, I'll stop complaining.

Islandlad77
15-06-2015, 18:13
Personally i think the FFB has Been turned up Way Too Much!!! PCars Game Physics and Wheel FFB was Definitly there before the update. I was Running in Game FFB at 75 and 100% on the V2 Wheel and it was More that Enough... The Rumble Strips and Curbs would try and Rip the wheel from your Hands!!!

The Problem was and Still is you have to get a Good FFB Tweek to Bring out the Different FFB effects. The FFB Strength Means Very Little...the ability to Feel Subtle Changes within the FFB is what Creates a Good Racing Sim or Wheel FFB Set up... and Yes we are still Missing a Official SMS PDF or Instructions that Describe what Effects all of these Settings Have... Also Still Missing is a Change Log so that we Know exactly what Values Have Changed... IE: Game Master FFB what is 50 = to...is it 100% FFB??? or is it 50%FFB??? We dont Know for sure because the in Car Tune Sliders go Up to 200.... This is All impotant info we Need to Have to Adjust Settings Propperly to Avoid FFB Clipping and Damage to our Wheels due to Excessive FFB input.

The Majic all Happens around the Relative adjust Bleed which is Still being Described as a "Time Value" for bleeding torque torque back in... This is False!!! Relative adjust Bleed is the amount / #% of torque that will be Bled off to create Changes in Wheel Weight to Produce Road Feel, Loss of Grip, Weight Tranfer ETC.... It this was a "Time" based setting every one would pick 0 because well all want instant FFB... But if you set it to 0 you will Have Absolute torque/Wheel weight all the Time... IE: No FFB Effects Feel.

Once i figure out what changes have been made with the Relative adjust Bleed Tuning will be easy.

I suggest that every 1 Start off with their FFB settings at 35 and + or - to find Correct wheel weight/FFB level that you like and then Start the Relative adjust Bleed at 75 to 85 and + or - until you get the wheel where you are comfortable with Road and Car feel.... These Numbers are Not Exact but these are a Good Starting point Based on my Last FFB tune.... also Turn all Damping and Smoothing to 0 as these 2 settings Negate FFB effects.

Before the update I Had PCars FFB on Par with the Feel of Assetto Corsa.... Personaly i thought it was better in alot of ways!!! The FFB was Very Precise Sharp and Crisp.

The Wheel Oscillation/ Shaking issue in F1 cars can be Cured by Turning the "MZ" Setting to 10 or Below... Thats How i Stopped that before the update... Hopefully it still works.... The Regular, Gt and P1 cars Had No Wheel Oscillation/Shakng issue before the update.... Shrugggs

All working well for me mate. I've got master and sop at 32 on the z4 gt3 as well. Only thing I'm finding is when the cars rear steps out I find correction through the wheel abit slow. Any further settings through ffb, wheel or car tuning to suggest? Also curbs are abit on the faint side.

Titzon Toast
15-06-2015, 19:13
Sry, still dont get it: in the in game wheel calibration you have step 1 "rotate wheel as far as possible" and step 2 "rotate 90 degrees".
You rotate your wheel until 900 degrees in step1 - correct?

Yep that's it man, it's a little bit tricky getting it to 900 degrees on the dot, but one or two out shouldn't really matter!

EDIT
Let your wheel return to centre before you turn it 90 degrees to the right.

lethaLEEkill
15-06-2015, 19:28
@Remco: It has nothing to do with "liking the FFB seetings".
The wheel kicks violently in a straight line - even if you turn the FFB down (it has nothing to do with the vibration motor, it is the FFB).
I quit after 2 laps at nordschleife because the GT2 wheel was really struggling.
PCars will spoil or kill the fanatec GT2 wheel after time! At least with the default setting.

Don't get me wrong I appreciate, that the Fanatec wheel is now actually detected as a WHEEL, but I really don't unterstand why SMS isn't capable of delevering a decent default setup.

It shouldn't be necassary to have a diploma in enginnering, to get right settings for a game!, ESPECIALLY for console users.

already killed my gt2, no devs or mods seem to give a shit though!!!!!!

gruzzlebeard
15-06-2015, 19:56
......
I suggest that every 1 Start off with their FFB settings at 35 and + or - to find Correct wheel weight/FFB level that you like and then Start the Relative adjust Bleed at 75 to 85 and + or - until you get the wheel where you are comfortable with Road and Car feel.... These Numbers are Not Exact but these are a Good Starting point Based on my Last FFB tune.... also Turn all Damping and Smoothing to 0 as these 2 settings Negate FFB effects.
....

I will try and test the settings too. Thanks a lot for your support so far GrimeyDog :encouragement:. Just two questions:

I checked also your settings from the pdf file. I think you use a CSW V2 while I use a GT3 RS V2. Do you expect any major difference - not sure if we can compare the settings with different wheels.
And whats about the Tire force setting of 100%. I read somewhere else it is recommended to leave the global FFB on 100% and changing only the Tire Force instead :confused:. Any opinion about or experience with this alternative?


I tested various options back and forth, but I'm quite confused meanwhile.

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 20:46
I Recomend Putting these settings in Exactly as they are... Drive a Car that you are used on a Track that you Know Very well to get a Feel for these Settings.... Also Make Sure the Car Suspension has Not been Tuned/Tweeked to get a Natural and Pure feel of the FFB Tweek then + or - where Noted to Best Fit your Wheel or FFB Taste.

*** Edit Please reverse the relative adjust bleed settings to 15 to 25*** you can + or - Depending on how much wheel weight you want to bleed off...I like Mine at 35... this is also very wheel dependent because some wheels are Stiffer and Have More Drag than others forgot to edit that you Dont Need sooo Much FFB Bleed Off since the 1.4 update because they Fixed the Centering Spring forgot to edit that....ooops

-Brick_Top-
15-06-2015, 20:50
I Recomend Putting these settings in Exactly as they are... Drive a Car that you are used on a Track that you Know Very well to get a Feel for these Settings.... Also Make Sure the Car Suspension has Not been Tuned/Tweeked to get a Natural and Pure feel of the FFB Tweek then + or - where Noted to Best Fit your Wheel or FFB Taste.

Grimey thanks again bro. Your a true gent for sharing all your hard work tweeking and testing ;)

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 20:50
gruzzlebeard PCars 100% in Game FFB is Way Too Strong!!! Its undrivable....Its always best to Keep the Wheel at 100% and set the in Game FFB a Below the point that it Starts Making your Wheel FFB Start Clipping.

Linx
15-06-2015, 20:58
Can anyone tell me if this is a known bug? This has been happening before and after patch. At anytime and everytime on any screen, if I turn my wheel off and then back on and out it in PC mode, the game crashes. Is this a known issue or is it just me?

Sankyo
15-06-2015, 20:59
Can anyone tell me if this is a known bug? This has been happening before and after patch. At anytime and everytime on any screen, if I turn my wheel off and then back on and out it in PC mode, the game crashes. Is this a known issue or is it just me?

Why would you do this?

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 21:01
Let Me Know what you think... I Can Maybe Tweek Fine Tune a tad bit More but this is a Good Start... Pretty much the same tine a Few # Needed to be lowered to avoid FFB Clipping. The Biggest Diff is the Main FFB is Way Stronger than it was before update.... I used to have it at 75 and Since the Pcars update v1.4 i Keep it at 50.

Fanatest
15-06-2015, 21:06
Why would you do this?

I assume it's after an event where the wheel will lock randomly and get stuck on full rotation, or when the FFB is lost entirely randomly in game etc. or maybe he's just nipping out ;)

Knowing what wheel, firmware etc is he using is my next question :)

Linx
15-06-2015, 21:09
Why would you do this?
Sometimes I have to pause the game for long periods of time to do other things and the wheel jumps out of whatever mode it's in. This is normal, I think, because it used to happen with Forza as well. I know it's not good to leave the game passed for long periods of time but there's also times where I tried to power off to see if recalibrating the wheel would help.

Kain NL
15-06-2015, 21:10
Why would you do this?

Because of sudden loss of FFB Remco. So to get the FFB back again, before the patch it worked out fine, we turn the wheel of and back on...now the game crashes when doing that !!

Grimey...sorry I get back at you this late...but it's a war zone at work and I couldn't test anything....but I let you know asap !!

Pfeffernuss
15-06-2015, 21:13
Pre 1.4 the game also crashed (PS4, CSR) when you powered off the wheel.

Linx
15-06-2015, 21:16
Remco, there's also times where I put the PS4 in sleep mode in order to come back later and continue where I left off. Powering the wheel back on crashes it and I lose my place. I mean I can live with it for now but I'm more curious if this is a known issue or just something I'm experiencing. Like I said it was happening before the patch and still is now.

Linx
15-06-2015, 21:17
Thanks Pfeffermuss, you answered my question

Titzon Toast
15-06-2015, 21:34
Can anyone tell me if this is a known bug? This has been happening before and after patch. At anytime and everytime on any screen, if I turn my wheel off and then back on and out it in PC mode, the game crashes. Is this a known issue or is it just me?

Yep, happened to me last night. I turned off my wheel to send a message using my controller and when I switched my wheel back on and into PC mode the game crashed.

207939

Linx
15-06-2015, 21:38
I wonder if this issue can be worked around by starting the PS4 with the wheel instead of controller

Freak66
15-06-2015, 21:54
Personally i think the FFB has Been turned up Way Too Much!!! PCars Game Physics and Wheel FFB was Definitly there before the update. I was Running in Game FFB at 75 and 100% on the V2 Wheel and it was More that Enough... The Rumble Strips and Curbs would try and Rip the wheel from your Hands!!!

The Problem was and Still is you have to get a Good FFB Tweek to Bring out the Different FFB effects. The FFB Strength Means Very Little...the ability to Feel Subtle Changes within the FFB is what Creates a Good Racing Sim or Wheel FFB Set up... and Yes we are still Missing a Official SMS PDF or Instructions that Describe what Effects all of these Settings Have... Also Still Missing is a Change Log so that we Know exactly what Values Have Changed... IE: Game Master FFB what is 50 = to...is it 100% FFB??? or is it 50%FFB??? We dont Know for sure because the in Car Tune Sliders go Up to 200.... This is All impotant info we Need to Have to Adjust Settings Propperly to Avoid FFB Clipping and Damage to our Wheels due to Excessive FFB input.

The Majic all Happens around the Relative adjust Bleed which is Still being Described as a "Time Value" for bleeding torque torque back in... This is False!!! Relative adjust Bleed is the amount / #% of torque that will be Bled off to create Changes in Wheel Weight to Produce Road Feel, Loss of Grip, Weight Tranfer ETC.... It this was a "Time" based setting every one would pick 0 because well all want instant FFB... But if you set it to 0 you will Have Absolute torque/Wheel weight all the Time... IE: No FFB Effects Feel.

Once i figure out what changes have been made with the Relative adjust Bleed Tuning will be easy.

I suggest that every 1 Start off with their FFB settings at 35 and + or - to find Correct wheel weight/FFB level that you like and then Start the Relative adjust Bleed at 75 to 85 and + or - until you get the wheel where you are comfortable with Road and Car feel.... These Numbers are Not Exact but these are a Good Starting point Based on my Last FFB tune.... also Turn all Damping and Smoothing to 0 as these 2 settings Negate FFB effects.

Before the update I Had PCars FFB on Par with the Feel of Assetto Corsa.... Personaly i thought it was better in alot of ways!!! The FFB was Very Precise Sharp and Crisp.

The Wheel Oscillation/ Shaking issue in F1 cars can be Cured by Turning the "MZ" Setting to 10 or Below... Thats How i Stopped that before the update... Hopefully it still works.... The Regular, Gt and P1 cars Had No Wheel Oscillation/Shakng issue before the update.... Shrugggs

I am afraid I am getting S L I G H T L Y M A D !!!

@ GrimeyDog and all other spezialists:

I am stranded having a prob, which no one seems to have - so I hope its something in the settings and I pray to sim racing god, that someone can help and find out, what to do:
the thing is, that as soon as I turn the wheel above a steering angle of approx. 5 degrees I get strong resistance on the wheel. Its totally a constant force, so no FFB effects above 15 degrees steering angle.
On the FFB graph on the telemetry HUD I can see peaks an curves within 5 degrees steering angle and a straight line (like drawn with a ruler) above 5 degrees.

Turning left this straight line runs in the middle of the graph window and turning right on the top of the graph window.

I have no asymetric setup and it appears with every car I tested (GT and Prototyps).

On top of that:
FF setting on the wheel setting to 100: strong resistance when turning to the right
FF on wheel setting on the wheel to 10: strong resistance when turning to the left
FF on wheel setting on the wheel to 50: equaly strong resistance turning to left or right

There are people using the Turbo S, not having that issue (Thank you Titzon Toast for comparison and matching).
I tried all recommended settings, but nothing changed this phenomenons.
Before the patch FFB was fine (flashed the turbo S with the CSR 756 firmware before patch, now flashed back to Turbo S 756 fw).

joe_diben
15-06-2015, 21:59
I'm using a gt3 rs v2 and I keep running into the same issue. If I raise the in game force feedback to 100 the wheel will disconnect after a few laps and the game will crash, showing the same error code above. If I lower the in game ffb to around 50 the I don't encounter this problem, but I lose a lot of detail and fidelity. This happens no matter what the car/track combination is. I have tire force down to 25 to counteract the heaviness of the wheel, and with ffb at 100 it feels great. No heaviness and a lot of detail, but it keeps disconnecting and causing the game to crash. I am using jack spades tweaks.

@Remco Van Dijk do you have any explanation for this behavior?

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 22:08
I am afraid I am getting S L I G H T L Y M A D !!!

@ GrimeyDog and all other spezialists:

I am stranded having a prob, which no one seems to have - so I hope its something in the settings and I pray to sim racing god, that someone can help and find out, what to do:
the thing is, that as soon as I turn the wheel above a steering angle of approx. 5 degrees I get strong resistance on the wheel. Its totally a constant force, so no FFB effects above 15 degrees steering angle.
On the FFB graph on the telemetry HUD I can see peaks an curves within 5 degrees steering angle and a straight line (like drawn with a ruler) above 5 degrees.

Turning left this straight line runs in the middle of the graph window and turning right on the top of the graph window.

I have no asymetric setup and it appears with every car I tested (GT and Prototyps).

On top of that:
FF setting on the wheel setting to 100: strong resistance when turning to the right
FF on wheel setting on the wheel to 10: strong resistance when turning to the left
FF on wheel setting on the wheel to 50: equaly strong resistance turning to left or right

There are people using the Turbo S, not having that issue (Thank you Titzon Toast for comparison and matching).
I tried all recommended settings, but nothing changed this phenomenons.
Before the patch FFB was fine (flashed the turbo S with the CSR 756 firmware before patch, now flashed back to Turbo S 756 fw).

What do you have your in game FFB set to??? i would check that first and then Reset your wheel settings in the controls menu, Recalibrate the wheel to pcars like its the first time using it and see what happens... have you done this already? also in order to fully lock the Pcars v1.4 FFB settings in properly you needed to Reset and unbind your wheel in the controller menu... Have you done this?

Dont get frustrated all thats gonna get you is a Infraction... LOL...Shrugggs

GrimGrnninGhost
15-06-2015, 22:14
I am afraid I am getting S L I G H T L Y M A D !!!

@ GrimeyDog and all other spezialists:

I am stranded having a prob, which no one seems to have - so I hope its something in the settings and I pray to sim racing god, that someone can help and find out, what to do:
the thing is, that as soon as I turn the wheel above a steering angle of approx. 5 degrees I get strong resistance on the wheel. Its totally a constant force, so no FFB effects above 15 degrees steering angle.
On the FFB graph on the telemetry HUD I can see peaks an curves within 5 degrees steering angle and a straight line (like drawn with a ruler) above 5 degrees.

Turning left this straight line runs in the middle of the graph window and turning right on the top of the graph window.

I have no asymetric setup and it appears with every car I tested (GT and Prototyps).

On top of that:
FF setting on the wheel setting to 100: strong resistance when turning to the right
FF on wheel setting on the wheel to 10: strong resistance when turning to the left
FF on wheel setting on the wheel to 50: equaly strong resistance turning to left or right

There are people using the Turbo S, not having that issue (Thank you Titzon Toast for comparison and matching).
I tried all recommended settings, but nothing changed this phenomenons.
Before the patch FFB was fine (flashed the turbo S with the CSR 756 firmware before patch, now flashed back to Turbo S 756 fw).

I had a similar situation and solved it by lowering the tire force way down until it no longer maxs out. I had to go down to 15!. I the increased the master scale and sop scale up an additional 20-30 pts from the jack spade tweaked values to get the feel of the road back.

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 22:17
I'm using a gt3 rs v2 and I keep running into the same issue. If I raise the in game force feedback to 100 the wheel will disconnect after a few laps and the game will crash, showing the same error code above. If I lower the in game ffb to around 50 the I don't encounter this problem, but I lose a lot of detail and fidelity. This happens no matter what the car/track combination is. I have tire force down to 25 to counteract the heaviness of the wheel, and with ffb at 100 it feels great. No heaviness and a lot of detail, but it keeps disconnecting and causing the game to crash. I am using jack spades tweaks.

@Remco Van Dijk do you have any explanation for this behavior?

You dont Need 100% FFB!!! YOUR GOING TO BURN YOUR WHEEL OUT!!! the wheel is shutting off due to over heating because of excessive FFB input.... Page 91 post 905 try the FFB Tweek PDF

It does not matter how strong you want the wheel to be that wheel has limited FFB output... you need to fine tune your FFB settings to bring out the feel of the FFB.
im using the CSW v2 and at 100% FFB Pcars is Not Drivable because the FFB is TOO strong!

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 22:40
Read the PDF use the tweek!!! It cant Hurt to try it... you might like it... put it in Exactly as it is... Do Not Mix with other Tunes and drive it with a un tuned car suspension then re Tweek car suspension if Needed.

*** Edit Please reverse the relative adjust bleed settings to 15 to 25*** you can + or - Depending on how much wheel weight you want to bleed off...I like Mine at 35... this is.also very wheel dependent because some wheels are Siffer and Have More Drag than others forgot to edit that you Dont Need sooo Much FFB Bleed Off since the 1.4 update because they Fixed the Centering Spring.

Freak66
15-06-2015, 23:31
What do you have your in game FFB set to??? i would check that first and then Reset your wheel settings in the controls menu, Recalibrate the wheel to pcars like its the first time using it and see what happens... have you done this already? also in order to fully lock the Pcars v1.4 FFB settings in properly you needed to Reset and unbind your wheel in the controller menu... Have you done this?

Dont get frustrated all thats gonna get you is a Infraction... LOL...Shrugggs

Thank you - you are right!
Its just a game - but I am adicted to it knowing the potential...
Thank you also for sharing your FFB tweek - really a true gent.

I did resetting, calibrating several times - did not change anything.
But I am not sure, how to "unbind" the wheel? Do you mean to change to gamepad (I also did that)?

What helps to reduce this strong and constant force or heaviness is the hint from GrimGrnninGhost (thank you!!) to lower the tire force down to 15, but doing that I have not much feel of the road left (increasing the master scale and sop scale did not compensate that in my case).

At least I can steer now without getting sore muscles... ho, ho, ho

Remco Van Dijk, any comments or even a solution coming to your mind?

GrimeyDog
15-06-2015, 23:43
You reset you wheel setting on the same page that you do the wheel calibration on... If you have not done that since the update that maybe your problem... This is the page and press the reset (Triangle Button)

Leepie
16-06-2015, 07:01
Just a quick q, after the update and calibration of my wheel (GT3RS) I went straight into the game for a go having changed nothing. Felt loads better, however I note from the th read that default FFB is referred to as 50, mine is at 100 and doesn't feel too strong at all? This is the setting after the update I have not messed with any setting yet?

NemessiS82
16-06-2015, 08:36
People who have the CSR wheel which is the best setting for ffb ? thanks a lot!

GBRC.C7
16-06-2015, 09:50
I am afraid I am getting S L I G H T L Y M A D !!!



https://youtu.be/Od6hY_50Dh0

couldn't resist any longer !

GrimeyDog
16-06-2015, 10:28
I Posted the Wrong PDF with some old setting that are Prior to the V1.4 update....ive posted a New PDF with Some adjusted Setting in FFB and Realtive adjust Bleed.

I Deleted the v002 PDF.... I Made and Posted these PDF from my Phone... LOL... So Pardon My Errors.

*** Note you will Have to Do Some Tweeking + or - to get this Tweek to Best Fit your wheel and Desired Level of FFB*** Just + or - where Noted.

I use Regulare Wheel Settings with DOR set to AUT/Off

Sankyo
16-06-2015, 10:45
I'm using a gt3 rs v2 and I keep running into the same issue. If I raise the in game force feedback to 100 the wheel will disconnect after a few laps and the game will crash, showing the same error code above. If I lower the in game ffb to around 50 the I don't encounter this problem, but I lose a lot of detail and fidelity. This happens no matter what the car/track combination is. I have tire force down to 25 to counteract the heaviness of the wheel, and with ffb at 100 it feels great. No heaviness and a lot of detail, but it keeps disconnecting and causing the game to crash. I am using jack spades tweaks.

@Remco Van Dijk do you have any explanation for this behavior?
Do you have other racing games where you could test this? PS4 or PC? I'd think that it is an issue with the wheel. Do you know whether the disconnect happens when you turn the wheel to a specific side, or past a particular steering angle?

Islandlad77
16-06-2015, 11:44
Can anyone tell me what the default clipping settings are, and will adjusting them help with wheel shaking in straight line.
Thanks

GrimeyDog
16-06-2015, 11:50
Do you have other racing games where you could test this? PS4 or PC? I'd think that it is an issue with the wheel. Do you know whether the disconnect happens when you turn the wheel to a specific side, or past a particular steering angle?

Remco Van Dijk i think He is Over working His wheel with 100% in Game FFB... The wheel is Getting Too Hot and Shutting its Self off...it Seems Any time the Wheel Shuts off or Disconnects in a Race or Car Tuning Menu you get that Error Message. But if the wheel turns off at the Main Menu you can just power the wheel off and on and No Error Message....I think thats because while Racing PCars Controls the DOR and when wheel disconnects the DOR cant Load Propperly... ***My Best Guess***

Joe_Diben the answer is your wheel cant Handle 100% PCars FFB... You will Eventualy Burn your wheel out if you Keep using 100% in game FFB.... I will Not Use 100% InGame FFB on My V2 it gets Hotter than inLike or Want it to be... PCars In GamenFFB is VERY VERY Strong. jmo

Fong74
16-06-2015, 14:01
Some positive feedback I would like to share:

After clarifying that a reset of controller settings leads to new default values becoming active, me and some fellow drivers tested those during the last few days.

I can confirm that the defaults coming with v1.4 combined with Fanatec firmware 094 are all very well received by lots of CSW V2 users. At least the ones I know.

Here are the values I am using atm and with which I am very happy indeed:

All default except below values!

Game settings - Controller options
All deadzones: 0
All sensitivities: 50
Force Feedback: 100

Car-setup - FFB section:
Master Scale: 34
Fx Scale: 106
Fy Scale: 102
Fz Scale: 104
Fx Smooth: 0

Thanks to everyone involved! Keep it up guys!

GrimeyDog
16-06-2015, 14:34
I Must admit that i did Not Like the way PCars FFB was Set up with all the Tweeking and Tweeking and More Tweeking... But I Must admit Now that this Method of Allowing users to Customise their FFB to their Particular Taste and Wheel Might just be the Best idea in Sim Racing yet!!! While this Can be Very Frustrating at times it is Very Rewarding when you find a Tweek that you like.

All Wheels are Different and use Different FFB Fw so there is No 1 perfect Formula that will feel the same with Fanatec, TM, Logitec ETC... Tweek on My Fellow Sim Racers... Tweek On!!! LOL

Off Topic But am i the only 1 thats Happy Porsche Crushed Audi this weekend at 24hrs of Lemans??? Audi was winning too Much with No Competition it wasnGetting Boring... I Cant wait till Next year!!!

Nono
16-06-2015, 16:00
I just want to say a very special thanks to Remco Van Dijk and GrimeyDog for all the works and helps they do for us, the Projects Cars community. I use a CSR-E, and for know, I never feel such a pleasure with it until this patch 1.4. I used Jack Spade settings (with Tire Force at 50) and I love and enjoy my wheel as never!
My CSWV2 is on the way and when I will receive it, I will test GrimeyDog settings. At this point, GrimeyDog : Do you advise me to install fw 65 rather than the 95 (I don't have HUB or CS Hand Break).

Note: Sorry for my english, I'm french ;o)
And, Grimey, yes me to I'm happy to see Porsche crushed Audi this weekend at 24hrs of Le Mans. To much win kill the win... ;o)

joe_diben
16-06-2015, 16:06
Do you have other racing games where you could test this? PS4 or PC? I'd think that it is an issue with the wheel. Do you know whether the disconnect happens when you turn the wheel to a specific side, or past a particular steering angle?
I tried the wheel with iracing. It doesn't disconnect at all. The force feedback is set much stronger in iracing than I have it in pcars so I don't think overheating is the issue. I can drive for as long as I want it seems without the wheel restarting itself like it keeps doing in pcars. Now that you mention it I do notice that the problem seems to occur while I'm in the middle of a turn, usually a sharp turn where I have to turn the wheel past a certain point.

GrimeyDog
16-06-2015, 16:59
I just want to say a very special thanks to Remco Van Dijk and GrimeyDog for all the works and helps they do for us, the Projects Cars community. I use a CSR-E, and for know, I never feel such a pleasure with it until this patch 1.4. I used Jack Spade settings (with Tire Force at 50) and I love and enjoy my wheel as never!
My CSWV2 is on the way and when I will receive it, I will test GrimeyDog settings. At this point, GrimeyDog : Do you advise me to install fw 65 rather than the 95 (I don't have HUB or CS Hand Break).

Note: Sorry for my english, I'm french ;o)
And, Grimey, yes me to I'm happy to see Porsche crushed Audi this weekend at 24hrs of Le Mans. To much win kill the win... ;o)


You should Try FW 94 on the CSR E and if the wheel does Not Loose center when driving then i would keep using FW 94.... I went back to FW 65 because with the V2 the wheel looses its Center while driving but sitting at the menu screen the wheel is straight and level....Soon as you Start driving again the wheel always goes 1/8th off Center to the Left...When i Check it on the PC its straight and Level... Very Strange... Maybe FW 94 works better on the CSR E than it does on the V2....Check that out and pist back if the wheel looses its center.... ive just sent Fanatec a Email about this issue this morning.

I Love Sim Racing im Happy that i can help.

RomKnight
16-06-2015, 17:27
Game settings - Controller options[/B]
All deadzones: 0
All sensitivities: 50
Force Feedback: 100

Car-setup - FFB section:
Master Scale: 34
Fx Scale: 106
Fy Scale: 102
Fz Scale: 104
Fx Smooth: 0

Thanks to everyone involved! Keep it up guys!

I'm pretty sure that would clip on my CSW v2 or at least way too heavy for me.

If anything i''d lower what i've marked red (especially master scale which is either default 26 or lowered to 24)

The rest is on my .sig

PS: I only use DRI:OFF with pCARS because we have the option to remove the drag with much more precision with the "per wheel" settings you can read on my .sig. Other games I leave it at 3

Sankyo
16-06-2015, 18:05
I'm pretty sure that would clip on my CSW v2 or at least way too heavy for me.

If anything i''d lower what i've marked red (especially master scale which is either default 26 or lowered to 24)

The rest is on my .sig

PS: I only use DRI:OFF with pCARS because we have the option to remove the drag with much more precision with the "per wheel" settings you can read on my .sig. Other games I leave it at 3
Unless there's a difference in FFB scaling between PC and PS4, I agree that those settings lead to massive FFB clipping. If people prefer the feeling of that then that's fine with me, but you'll be missing out on a lot of subtle FFB this way.

Sankyo
16-06-2015, 18:06
I tried the wheel with iracing. It doesn't disconnect at all. The force feedback is set much stronger in iracing than I have it in pcars so I don't think overheating is the issue. I can drive for as long as I want it seems without the wheel restarting itself like it keeps doing in pcars. Now that you mention it I do notice that the problem seems to occur while I'm in the middle of a turn, usually a sharp turn where I have to turn the wheel past a certain point.
Did you have to use less steering input in iRacing? Keep an eye on the disconnect issue and whether it reproducibly happens when turning the wheel past a certain point, it could indicate a wheel issue.

joe_diben
16-06-2015, 18:29
Did you have to use less steering input in iRacing? Keep an eye on the disconnect issue and whether it reproducibly happens when turning the wheel past a certain point, it could indicate a wheel issue.

I think I may have solved the problem. I had the wheel plugged into a power bar with my ps4, TV and modem as well. I plugged it into the wall outlet on its own and I haven't had an issue since. I just did a 40 min race with no issues. I will continue to monitor the problem just in case...

Nono
16-06-2015, 18:46
You should Try FW 94 on the CSR E and if the wheel does Not Loose center when driving then i would keep using FW 94.... I went back to FW 65 because with the V2 the wheel looses its Center while driving but sitting at the menu screen the wheel is straight and level....Soon as you Start driving again the wheel always goes 1/8th off Center to the Left...When i Check it on the PC its straight and Level... Very Strange... Maybe FW 94 works better on the CSR E than it does on the V2....Check that out and pist back if the wheel looses its center.... ive just sent Fanatec a Email about this issue this morning.

I Love Sim Racing im Happy that i can help.

Ouch, you killing me ;o) I just spend so many days around settings since Project Cars is in the place. So tired now :o(
CSR-E work nicely with fw757, it's enought for now, sorry ;o) I wait for my CSWV2 (it arrive in some days) and I will test fw94 with it

Thanks for all Grimey, really

gruzzlebeard
16-06-2015, 19:24
I am afraid I am getting S L I G H T L Y M A D !!!

@ GrimeyDog and all other spezialists:

I am stranded having a prob, which no one seems to have - so I hope its something in the settings and I pray to sim racing god, that someone can help and find out, what to do:
the thing is, that as soon as I turn the wheel above a steering angle of approx. 5 degrees I get strong resistance on the wheel. Its totally a constant force, so no FFB effects above 15 degrees steering angle.
On the FFB graph on the telemetry HUD I can see peaks an curves within 5 degrees steering angle and a straight line (like drawn with a ruler) above 5 degrees.

Turning left this straight line runs in the middle of the graph window and turning right on the top of the graph window.

I have no asymetric setup and it appears with every car I tested (GT and Prototyps).

On top of that:
FF setting on the wheel setting to 100: strong resistance when turning to the right
FF on wheel setting on the wheel to 10: strong resistance when turning to the left
FF on wheel setting on the wheel to 50: equaly strong resistance turning to left or right

There are people using the Turbo S, not having that issue (Thank you Titzon Toast for comparison and matching).
I tried all recommended settings, but nothing changed this phenomenons.
Before the patch FFB was fine (flashed the turbo S with the CSR 756 firmware before patch, now flashed back to Turbo S 756 fw).


Last night I've got the same results like you. I used an untouched car with GrimeyDogs global FFB settings. I just reduced the global FFB to 25% (Tire Force 100%). Actually the feedback was brilliant in comparison to the settings before. But just during left and right turns I've got this tremendous clipping and I've got no feedback anymore from the road or curbs. Even after reducing the FFB to 0% I felt FFB on the wheel and the results in the HUD showed clipping as well.

BTW I tried the car settings from GrimeyDog and from Jack Spade, but both settings delivered too strong FFB or worse FFB in comparison to the standard game settings. So I decided to leave the car seetings untouched because the feedback in standard was pretty decent.

Today I made some test as well but every change I made led immediatelly to a very very strong oscillating wheel on the straights. Really strange. So I made a break and I will reset my wheel and car settings again and start from beginning. Somehow I've the feeling that changing the settings back will only visually reset the sliders but not the phisical adjustments itself. But this is not proven.

I made a video from the clipping with 25% FFB. But with 0% it was the same result.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLUk1xoRIJ8fpdQejUJopOwwNsCqcvz6sB&v=aMXSNDwaWLg&feature=player_detailpage

GrimeyDog
16-06-2015, 20:05
Last night I've got the same results like you. I used an untouched car with GrimeyDogs global FFB settings. I just reduced the global FFB to 25% (Tire Force 100%). Actually the feedback was brilliant in comparison to the settings before. But just during left and right turns I've got this tremendous clipping and I've got no feedback anymore from the road or curbs. Even after reducing the FFB to 0% I felt FFB on the wheel and the results in the HUD showed clipping as well.

BTW I tried the car settings from GrimeyDog and from Jack Spade, but both settings delivered too strong FFB or worse FFB in comparison to the standard game settings. So I decided to leave the car seetings untouched because the feedback in standard was pretty decent.

Today I made some test as well but every change I made led immediatelly to a very very strong oscillating wheel on the straights. Really strange. So I made a break and I will reset my wheel and car settings again and start from beginning. Somehow I've the feeling that changing the settings back will only visually reset the sliders but not the phisical adjustments itself. But this is not proven.

I made a video from the clipping with 25% FFB. But with 0% it was the same result.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVgcCYLDGp8&feature=youtu.be

Turn down the Main in game FFB to 50 or below and also Turn down the Master Scale and SOP master Scale in the car tuning menu to 50% or below.... Remember that while the Porsche GT3 RS v2 is a Great wheel its also a older wheel and FFB has gotten much stronger and it is Programed with Much More detail than a few years ago. There is a sweet spot for the wheel you just have to find it!!! If turning the mains down does not solve the problem look at my tune every where i put
+ or - Try Reducing those values by first by 1/2 and go up by 10 on each until you find the sweet spot. its there you just have to tweek to find it... No you wont have tremendously strong FFB But you will have all the detail and as much FFB Strength as the wheel is able to put out... every device has its limits...Using the V2 Even with much Higher mains my FFB graph line never hits the top and flattens out because the FFB input tolerances are Higher but at 100% in Game FFB the V2 gets Hotter than im comfortable with... Even though i don't get clipping im looking for the sweet spot too... Maximum FFB effects without stressing or Over driving the wheel .
I have a GT2 wheel when i get time i will hook it up and see what i can come up with.

What is your Relative adjust Gain and the Relative adjust Clamp set to??? also Take a look at the Relative adjust bleed what is it set to??? it doesn't seem that your wheel is bleeding off any torque if it were that line should be up down all over the place... any time that line goes Flat that's Clipping!!!!

gruzzlebeard
16-06-2015, 20:50
Howdy GrimeyDog. Thanks for your patience.

My Main FFB setting in this video was 25%. Tire Force 100%, Master Scale 26 , SOP master Scale 0. Everything else is according to your settings in the pdf. I lowered slowly the values. But without success.

Even with FFB=0% I've got still a significant forces on the wheel in curves and I've got still clipping exactly like in the video. I thought with 0% feedback every ffb should be switched off???
So I start again with a reset of wheel and cars. Maybe I've an issue with my wheel software?


I have a GT2 wheel when i get time i will hook it up and see what i can come up with.


That's nice, but please don't put any efforts to it anymore. I should get my CSW V2 with CSW Porsche 918 RSR wheel soon. So than I can continue with a new wheel. BTW I'm from Stuttgart that's where the Porsche is manufactured. I have read that you watched the race too.

GrimeyDog
16-06-2015, 21:04
Yesss!!! The Pre v1.4 Update Majic is Back!!!I get the same Feel and i can run the same lap times again!!! Yeeeaaah!!! Im Happy... while most didnt like the strong center spring i Loved it, it gives sooo much detail and feel about what the car is doing with the V2 and keeps me from over steering...i just figured out how to get it back...Hoooray!!! i must have been on a Tweeker overload Brain Freeze all i did was Just turn the "MZ" up simple...LOL....

Seems that every one but a few are happy its very quiet in here for the last 2 days. Follow my PDF and keep tweeking just + or - where i Noted and you will find it... Every 1 likes a different wheel feel you have to tweek to find the sweet spot for your wheel and your particular FFB Feel taste.

Freak66
16-06-2015, 21:08
You reset you wheel setting on the same page that you do the wheel calibration on... If you have not done that since the update that maybe your problem... This is the page and press the reset (Triangle Button)

Of course I know how to reset and did that several times.
My question was, what you mean with unbind: "Reset and unbind your wheel in the controller menu"?

And I am using all your Tweek settings for FFB

Linx
16-06-2015, 21:27
I have a question regarding a cars tune and FFB settings. I've been using Grimey Dogs settings on all cars and it feels good to me. Last night I started a new race using a McLaren F1. I applied just a little bit of suspension tuning but still need to work on it. The car felt like it was on ice. I was only able to give it 25%-50% throttle before the FFB feels light as I'm losing traction. But even with the little bit of suspension work I did it should of been running better. My question is, if I had the "perfect" tune on the car but my FFB settings weren't good will that play into the car not handling correctly? I'm pretty sure this is a car tune issue but was wondering if FFB might throw things off. I only had about 15 min of driving it before I had to force myself to turn off Pcars in order to go to bed.
Another question, don't know if this was mentioned. Has anyone noticed that while making certain adjustments in the suspension tune you can move the slider but the value always shows 0.00? I've noticed this before the patch and same now. And though you can move the slider are the changes taking affect or will the car still treat it at a 0 value?

Linx
16-06-2015, 21:29
Sorry. Double post

GrimeyDog
16-06-2015, 21:34
Freak66 Same thing when i reset the wheel i saw a box that said i was about to unbind all my settings...i guess it ment reset all my button mapping... but any way its all the same thing.

GrimeyDog
16-06-2015, 22:01
Linx Either 1 will throw the car Off... Im Not Doing any suspension tuning... Maybe some Aero, Brake balance, Brake PSI but nothing big... Its all about Knowing the track and Wheel feel... if the Wheel feel is right that equals lap Times. i Check my wheel settings to see can i Run consistent good laps because the fastest Hot lap usually doesn't win the race. consistency is the key for me....

Dubai Autodrome international all of these time would put me in the top 500 and this was done with with Real set on Tires... whooaaa1 matter of fack i just beat my best lap!!! LOLmy best on the LB is 1:25.505 i would have moved up 80 places...lol... and this is with a un-tuned car not even aero was added... Maybe when all the updates are done i will tweek but the cars i dunno.

GrimeyDog
16-06-2015, 23:56
Nothing but Tweek Time!!! I haven't done any Real racing since i had this game. Take a look. OCD!!!

TRD
17-06-2015, 00:39
Hi, just still waiting to see if anyone can respond to my original post a few pages back regarding, . . .

Game freezing in continuous segments like laggy frames both prior and post update, . . . Unless steering continuously or tapping a button.
This happends right from load up including intro and any menu navigation or usage/driving of any kind.

Using "911 turbo wheel" with "911 turbo (s)" dongle on ps4.

Players with the 911s wheel also reported this prior to update wheras im using just the turbo, so im sure someone out there may be experiencing this also, hoping someone can find a work around or even investigate this briefly if they get a chance, any info on this will be much appreciated.

Kind regards.

Linx
17-06-2015, 01:59
Not to bust your bubble but I think I remember that they said only the Turbo S will work and not the regular Turbo. Though I heard this before the game release maybe they changed that now.

GrimeyDog
17-06-2015, 02:04
Turn down the Main in game FFB to 50 or below and also Turn down the Master Scale and SOP master Scale in the car tuning menu to 50% or below.... Remember that while the Porsche GT3 RS v2 is a Great wheel its also a older wheel and FFB has gotten much stronger and it is Programed with Much More detail than a few years ago. There is a sweet spot for the wheel you just have to find it!!! If turning the mains down does not solve the problem look at my tune every where i put
+ or - Try Reducing those values by first by 1/2 and go up by 10 on each until you find the sweet spot. its there you just have to tweek to find it... No you wont have tremendously strong FFB But you will have all the detail and as much FFB Strength as the wheel is able to put out... every device has its limits...Using the V2 Even with much Higher mains my FFB graph line never hits the top and flattens out because the FFB input tolerances are Higher but at 100% in Game FFB the V2 gets Hotter than im comfortable with... Even though i don't get clipping im looking for the sweet spot too... Maximum FFB effects without stressing or Over driving the wheel .
I have a GT2 wheel when i get time i will hook it up and see what i can come up with.

What is your Relative adjust Gain and the Relative adjust Clamp set to??? also Take a look at the Relative adjust bleed what is it set to??? it doesn't seem that your wheel is bleeding off any torque if it were that line should be up down all over the place... any time that line goes Flat that's Clipping!!!!

While Driving the Giunetta ... I Dunno how to Spell it i Experienced the Same Loss of FFB... and Yes i Cut the FFB Down on Everything and The FFB just wouldnGo in and Out During a Hard Turn with little to No FFB in the wheel.... Im going to bed... Hmmmm...

RAVEracer
17-06-2015, 06:44
I use the CSR shifter set :) On the sequential shifter it only shifts down but never up. Why?? (also on the Clio it likes to stick it in neutral a lot)

Cheers for the FFB settings Grimey :cool:

Cabriojoschy
17-06-2015, 06:54
I use the CSR shifter set :) On the sequential shifter it only shifts down but never up. Why?? (also on the Clio it likes to stick it in neutral a lot)

Have you mapped the shifter in controls menu? I'm having the problem that I have to map either the SQ shifter or the shifting pedals on the wheel. Hope they fix it, that both is working at the same time.

RAVEracer
17-06-2015, 07:35
Have you mapped the shifter in controls menu? I'm having the problem that I have to map eitler the SQ shifter of the shifting pedals on the wheel. Hope they fix it, that both is working at the same time.

Nope haven't even thought of that lol. I'll give it a go later... if it's that simple then I'm gonna feel all a bit dumb :D

Cabriojoschy
17-06-2015, 11:10
Has somebody tried the Fanatec Club Sport Handbrake? I can't map it (multiple inputs detected), and it is only recognized if I calibrate the pedals before.
I hope this problem and the bug that the SQ shifter and steering wheel pedals are not working at the same time will be fixed in a future patch.

Fanatest
17-06-2015, 11:35
I use the CSR shifter set :) On the sequential shifter it only shifts down but never up. Why?? (also on the Clio it likes to stick it in neutral a lot)

Cheers for the FFB settings Grimey :cool:

Since 1.4 I am experiencing issues with my shifter in SQ. I now have to push forward for up, and backward for down (it's reversed) and in some cases is exactly as you mention. However, I'm testing all sorts of configurations here at the moment so I put it down to a minor niggle for me to re-visit later.

I'm going to be re flashing today anyway, so I'll re test this again and let you know if I experience it or find a work around.

With this SQ issue, and the fact that the XBOX version doesn't support H pattern shifters (no neutral at all) ... I hope the next patch fixes this as I tend to use my clutch, H and SQ far more than flappy paddles and without them, I'm left with very little to do.

tommozza
17-06-2015, 13:11
Still having a lot of issues with the Fanatec GT2 wheel with latest hardware, 1.4 patch, wheel is 2 months old.

Problem: Loss of wheel 'feel' and FFB randomly (i.e.: moving from race to race, or even mid race i might lose the feel/FFB turning left, but it maintains the feeling to the right). Almost like settings change between races… but they don't, and my wheel will then sit 'centred' at about 15 deg off centre. Feel comes back at random, and a couple of laps later I might have the feel back. Has nothing to do with old / overheated tyres or damage, its just sometimes there and sometimes isn't. Tends to be more on online races. Also, a lot of shuddering under steering lock.

Further, if I make attempts to tune it often seems like reverting back after a change gives me a completely different setup again - a sort of 'moving goalposts'

Attempts to solve: I've run a range of different settings (GrimeyDog's, Jack Spades etc) but there doesn't seem to be anything thats got the wheel to feel great. I actually preferred the wheel on the first patch because at least I knew what FFB / feel I was going to get, now it feels like a lucky dip and my lap times are all over the shop

gruzzlebeard
17-06-2015, 13:40
I am afraid I am getting S L I G H T L Y M A D !!!

@ GrimeyDog and all other spezialists:

I am stranded having a prob, which no one seems to have - so I hope its something in the settings and I pray to sim racing god, that someone can help and find out, what to do:
the thing is, that as soon as I turn the wheel above a steering angle of approx. 5 degrees I get strong resistance on the wheel. Its totally a constant force, so no FFB effects above 15 degrees steering angle.
On the FFB graph on the telemetry HUD I can see peaks an curves within 5 degrees steering angle and a straight line (like drawn with a ruler) above 5 degrees.

Turning left this straight line runs in the middle of the graph window and turning right on the top of the graph window.

I have no asymetric setup and it appears with every car I tested (GT and Prototyps).

On top of that:
FF setting on the wheel setting to 100: strong resistance when turning to the right
FF on wheel setting on the wheel to 10: strong resistance when turning to the left
FF on wheel setting on the wheel to 50: equaly strong resistance turning to left or right

There are people using the Turbo S, not having that issue (Thank you Titzon Toast for comparison and matching).
I tried all recommended settings, but nothing changed this phenomenons.
Before the patch FFB was fine (flashed the turbo S with the CSR 756 firmware before patch, now flashed back to Turbo S 756 fw).

Howdy Freak66 - found a video which explains exactly the issue and shows how to solve it. As GrimeyDog said we need to find the right compromise. The issue comes from the Tire Force and we need to find the right mixture between the global FFB and Tire Force settings.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMXSNDwaWLg

Fong74
17-06-2015, 14:08
I'm pretty sure that would clip on my CSW v2 or at least way too heavy for me.

If anything i''d lower what i've marked red (especially master scale which is either default 26 or lowered to 24)

The rest is on my .sig

PS: I only use DRI:OFF with pCARS because we have the option to remove the drag with much more precision with the "per wheel" settings you can read on my .sig. Other games I leave it at 3


Unless there's a difference in FFB scaling between PC and PS4, I agree that those settings lead to massive FFB clipping. If people prefer the feeling of that then that's fine with me, but you'll be missing out on a lot of subtle FFB this way.


Thank you for the hints. I will take them into account next time I will continue tweaking the FFb.

I do have a certain amount of clipping for sure, but I also like to have a heavy wheel. It increases the immersion of driving in a virtual environment for me. I know thats not perfect from a competitive point of view, but as I tend to drive more for pleasure than for results, its ok for me so far. Therefore I always seek to find a balance between precision/subtle FFB and the resistance the wheel creates while taking turns or braking.

I tested quite some time concerning those:

Car-setup - FFB section:
Master Scale: 34
Fx Scale: 106
Fy Scale: 102
Fz Scale: 104
Fx Smooth: 0

With Master Scale set to 34 I just dont get oscillations anymore. With 36 and up they start to occur. So values above 34 are too much for a wheel, which I like.

The F* Scales do not have such a heavy impact on FFb strength/clipping on the PS4, is my impression. Lowering those values feels like loosing subtle FFb effects imho.

What I was doing to reduce the amount of clipping/getting a lighter wheel since I read you comments, was to reduce

Game settings - Controller options
Force Feedback: 100 -> 50 (which is the default)


General question concerning clipping and the telemetry in pCars:
I realized, that software mixing is active by now (no white line anymore, only the yellow one) with v1.4. After release the white line was representing FFb. But anyhow...

Do I understand it correctly, that for clipping-free settings, the FFb graph may never have any flat lines at the top and at the bottom of its drawing area (which is about 50% of the whole rectangle where the graph is drawn)?

Sankyo
17-06-2015, 15:03
Thank you for the hints. I will take them into account next time I will continue tweaking the FFb.

I do have a certain amount of clipping for sure, but I also like to have a heavy wheel. It increases the immersion of driving in a virtual environment for me. I know thats not perfect from a competitive point of view, but as I tend to drive more for pleasure than for results, its ok for me so far. Therefore I always seek to find a balance between precision/subtle FFB and the resistance the wheel creates while taking turns or braking.

I tested quite some time concerning those:

Car-setup - FFB section:
Master Scale: 34
Fx Scale: 106
Fy Scale: 102
Fz Scale: 104
Fx Smooth: 0

With Master Scale set to 34 I just dont get oscillations anymore. With 36 and up they start to occur. So values above 34 are too much for a wheel, which I like.

The F* Scales do not have such a heavy impact on FFb strength/clipping on the PS4, is my impression. Lowering those values feels like loosing subtle FFb effects imho.

What I was doing to reduce the amount of clipping/getting a lighter wheel since I read you comments, was to reduce

Game settings - Controller options
Force Feedback: 100 -> 50 (which is the default)


General question concerning clipping and the telemetry in pCars:
I realized, that software mixing is active by now (no white line anymore, only the yellow one) with v1.4. After release the white line was representing FFb. But anyhow...

Do I understand it correctly, that for clipping-free settings, the FFb graph may never have any flat lines at the top and at the bottom of its drawing area (which is about 50% of the whole rectangle where the graph is drawn)?

Yes that is correct.

Mascot
17-06-2015, 15:16
Yes that is correct.

Is there one 'master' slider to adjust to get the peaks & troughs down within clipping boundaries? Jack Spade's tweaks have helped a lot but I still get the occasional explosion. To be honest I'm scared to use my GT2 any more. It makes horrendous noises on startup now and feels like something is amiss.

Also, what is very square telemetry an indication of? Imagine castle battlements made up of vertical and horizontal lines only, like a square saw-tooth. This makes my whole Playseat rig shake. It was killing my poor wheel.

Fong74
17-06-2015, 15:36
Id go for

Game settings - Controller options
Force Feedback

first, and then for

Car-setup - FFB section:
Master Scale

if you did not raise the value for Tire Force.

If you did, Id return to default there and lower the two upper values.

Sankyo
17-06-2015, 16:19
Is there one 'master' slider to adjust to get the peaks & troughs down within clipping boundaries? Jack Spade's tweaks have helped a lot but I still get the occasional explosion. To be honest I'm scared to use my GT2 any more. It makes horrendous noises on startup now and feels like something is amiss.

Also, what is very square telemetry an indication of? Imagine castle battlements made up of vertical and horizontal lines only, like a square saw-tooth. This makes my whole Playseat rig shake. It was killing my poor wheel.
That would be massive clipping. Turn down tyre force in the FFB Calibration menu (Controls section).

Fanatest
17-06-2015, 16:30
Ok.

So it looks like they decided to change some mappings in patch 1.4 on PS4 for some reason?

Pre 1.4: You were able to drive a car (sequential) and use either the paddles or the SQ stick shifter in SQ mode.

Now (post 1.4) the only way to enable the SQ shifter... Is.... to physically map it as the shifter up and down in the settings menu, however by doing so will lock your shifts to "shifter back" and "shifter forward" in the menu, which in turn completely disables your paddles (and vice versa)

The problem with this ... Obviously!
If change car online, in a race etc. I'm required to go back into the settings and physically remap my buttons from the shifter to the flappy paddles every single time I drive a paddle shifter car, and then, Physically remap them back from the paddles to the shifter every time I drive a SQ shifter car ... and so forth and so on...

I think the most sensible approach to this, would be to ADD a secondary mapping for the SQ shifter:

Gear Shift Up Paddle = R1 Button << (user configurable)
Gear Down Paddle = L1 Button << (user configurable)
Gear Up SQS = Shifter Back << (user configurable)
Gear Down SQS = Shifter Forward << (user configurable)

The game will then map those entries accordingly.

The problem with it as it is now, is that the SQ shifter is rendered completely useless, unless you are willing to physically map it before you drive any SQ car and then un map it when you drive a non SQ car, and then re map your paddles every single time you drive a paddle shifter car and so forth and so on... That's a lot of time in the menus.

The old system worked better IMO as it defaulted the SQ to (I assume) to R1 / L1 so that when users were in a car with a sequential gearbox they could use either their SQ shifter or the flappy paddles (depending on what the vehicle has) where's now it renders one of them completly useless at a time and forces you to enter the configuration settings menu to manually decide which one is enabled and disabled (which is a real shame) and even more of a headache if your not sure which car has what ;)

So at the moment SQ Shifters are pretty much redundant on PS4 and XBO has no support for H pattern neutral.

joe_diben
17-06-2015, 16:52
Ok.

So it looks like they decided to change some mappings in patch 1.4 on PS4 for some reason?

Pre 1.4: You were able to drive a car (sequential) and use either the paddles or the SQ stick shifter in SQ mode.

Now (post 1.4) the only way to enable the SQ shifter... Is.... to physically map it as the shifter up and down in the settings menu, however by doing so will lock your shifts to "shifter back" and "shifter forward" in the menu, which in turn completely disables your paddles (and vice versa)

The problem with this ... Obviously!
If change car online, in a race etc. I'm required to go back into the settings and physically remap my buttons from the shifter to the flappy paddles every single time I drive a paddle shifter car, and then, Physically remap them back from the paddles to the shifter every time I drive a SQ shifter car ... and so forth and so on...

I think the most sensible approach to this, would be to ADD a secondary mapping for the SQ shifter:

Gear Shift Up Paddle = R1 Button << (user configurable)
Gear Down Paddle = L1 Button << (user configurable)
Gear Up SQS = Shifter Back << (user configurable)
Gear Down SQS = Shifter Forward << (user configurable)

The game will then map those entries accordingly.

The problem with it as it is now, is that the SQ shifter is rendered completely useless, unless you are willing to physically map it before you drive any SQ car and then un map it when you drive a non SQ car, and then re map your paddles every single time you drive a paddle shifter car and so forth and so on... That's a lot of time in the menus.

The old system worked better IMO as it defaulted the SQ to (I assume) to R1 / L1 so that when users were in a car with a sequential gearbox they could use either their SQ shifter or the flappy paddles (depending on what the vehicle has) where's now it renders one of them completly useless at a time and forces you to enter the configuration settings menu to manually decide which one is enabled and disabled (which is a real shame) and even more of a headache if your not sure which car has what ;)

So at the moment SQ Shifters are pretty much redundant on PS4 and XBO has no support for H pattern neutral.

This is an issue with other games as well. I have a gt3 rs with the CSR h gate and sequential shifter. In Iracing you have to map the sequential shifter to shift up/down if you want to use it and it disables the paddles. I not try using the sequential shifter pre 1.4 but I think this may be an issue on the hardware end and not the game. It is possible I am wrong.

Fanatest
17-06-2015, 17:09
This is an issue with other games as well. I have a gt3 rs with the CSR h gate and sequential shifter. In Iracing you have to map the sequential shifter to shift up/down if you want to use it and it disables the paddles. I not try using the sequential shifter pre 1.4 but I think this may be an issue on the hardware end and not the game. It is possible I am wrong.

It worked fine pre 1.4 on PS4.

It (exact same hardware entirely) still works fine on an unpatched XBO 1.3 (although H pattern neutral doesn't) :D

And the exact same hardware entirely, works perfectly fine and as expected in Forza 5

I'm 100% certain this is a change in 1.4 but for what reason, I'm unsure?

mallenium
17-06-2015, 18:14
Anyone with decent GT2/3 settings yet?

2 hours of tweaking and it just gets worst....tbh I only messed around with FFB / tire force...the other settings are from Grimey (thanks for that!)
Either the wheel starts clipping again or I can't feel the road, at all...I simply can't find the sweet spot

windard123
17-06-2015, 18:38
Hi im new to the forum but wanted to find out if anyone is having the same problem with the fanatec wheel and pedals that i am, with the new update i can now calibrate and make sure that the game registers what the pedals are doing but as soon as i properly start using the pedals in the game it just crashes it or throws me out with an error code, the wheel seems to do everything fine but once i use the pedals thats it, i can't even get round to do one lap! I waited for this update to fix all there problems but is someone else having this same problem or is there i way i can sort it? thanks for anybodys help

Linx
17-06-2015, 20:25
All I can think is make sure "Acl" is turned off in your wheel settings

Freak66
17-06-2015, 20:50
Howdy Freak66 - found a video which explains exactly the issue and shows how to solve it. As GrimeyDog said we need to find the right compromise. The issue comes from the Tire Force and we need to find the right mixture between the global FFB and Tire Force settings.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMXSNDwaWLg

Thank you for sharing, that makes it totally clear. I found a good setting for my turbo S:

tire force 25
FFB 40

I just thought that the FFB graph is the FFB graph, no matter what wheel you are uesing - but the FFB signals from the game seem to communicate bidirectional with the wheel.

What I still not understand: the higher I set FFB value on the wheel the more FFB strenght is on wheel turning right and less turning left.
I have to set FFB value on the wheel to 50 to have equal FFB strenght on both sides.
Why is that so?
I have absolutely no idea...

Sankyo
17-06-2015, 21:00
What I still not understand: the higher I set FFB value on the wheel the more FFB strenght is on wheel turning right and less turning left.
I have to set FFB value on the wheel to 50 to have equal FFB strenght on both sides.
Why is that so?
I have absolutely no idea...
Is that only with patch 1.4, or has it always been that way? Does it also do that in other race sims?

Linx
17-06-2015, 21:08
Last night I noticed something kind of similar. Left/right steering felt equal but I noticed I feel the rumble strips alot more when I hit then on the right wheels and not so much with the left

RAVEracer
17-06-2015, 22:19
Ok.

So it looks like they decided to change some mappings in patch 1.4 on PS4 for some reason?

Pre 1.4: You were able to drive a car (sequential) and use either the paddles or the SQ stick shifter in SQ mode.

Now (post 1.4) the only way to enable the SQ shifter... Is.... to physically map it as the shifter up and down in the settings menu, however by doing so will lock your shifts to "shifter back" and "shifter forward" in the menu, which in turn completely disables your paddles (and vice versa)

The problem with this ... Obviously!
If change car online, in a race etc. I'm required to go back into the settings and physically remap my buttons from the shifter to the flappy paddles every single time I drive a paddle shifter car, and then, Physically remap them back from the paddles to the shifter every time I drive a SQ shifter car ... and so forth and so on...

I think the most sensible approach to this, would be to ADD a secondary mapping for the SQ shifter:

Gear Shift Up Paddle = R1 Button << (user configurable)
Gear Down Paddle = L1 Button << (user configurable)
Gear Up SQS = Shifter Back << (user configurable)
Gear Down SQS = Shifter Forward << (user configurable)

The game will then map those entries accordingly.

The problem with it as it is now, is that the SQ shifter is rendered completely useless, unless you are willing to physically map it before you drive any SQ car and then un map it when you drive a non SQ car, and then re map your paddles every single time you drive a paddle shifter car and so forth and so on... That's a lot of time in the menus.

The old system worked better IMO as it defaulted the SQ to (I assume) to R1 / L1 so that when users were in a car with a sequential gearbox they could use either their SQ shifter or the flappy paddles (depending on what the vehicle has) where's now it renders one of them completly useless at a time and forces you to enter the configuration settings menu to manually decide which one is enabled and disabled (which is a real shame) and even more of a headache if your not sure which car has what ;)

So at the moment SQ Shifters are pretty much redundant on PS4 and XBO has no support for H pattern neutral.

Cheers for all the info :cool:

It's pretty unfortunate, though the paddles are okay to use for now. When I map, I can only map to change gears down with shifter forward... when I try to do shifter back nothing happens. I'm suspecting it's an issue with my shifter. Oh, and when the gears are reversed you can pretend you're driving a Kia Sportage in manual mode! Hehe ;)

GrimeyDog
18-06-2015, 00:23
Howdy Freak66 - found a video which explains exactly the issue and shows how to solve it. As GrimeyDog said we need to find the right compromise. The issue comes from the Tire Force and we need to find the right mixture between the global FFB and Tire Force settings.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMXSNDwaWLg

Thank You for Finding and posting that Video!!! That was GREAT Info!!! That's the Missing Link!!! I use a infrared thermometer That ive been using to Monitor the V2 temp...Its Been at 111*F I've Lowered the tire force Took the temp after 9 laps with the FFB on 75 and its running 92*F!!! That's a huge Difference and the FFB is still Strong and Crisp!!! That's the king of Info we need!!! I kid you not i was about to Give up on Pcars But maybe there is hope After All.

331 LX
18-06-2015, 00:27
Nvm. I fixed it.

GrimeyDog
18-06-2015, 00:53
Pre patch I had no violent wheel shake if I let my hands go free from my wheel, now I do. I can run a race but I have to grip the wheel very hard.

My setup is

Gt2 wheel, csp's and I'm using Grimey dogs setup. Everything else feels great, but I can't figure out how to reduce this. I have lowered my FFB on the wheel to 60 and it goes all over the place.

I can upload a video of it helps. If I missed a fix in this thread I do apologize. I appreciate any guidance on the matter.

Edit-I don't know why but I have lost all FFB on the lmp1 car that I'm using for my endurance championship. I'm going to restart my ps4 and try again.

Watch the video Gruzzlebeard posted and turn the tire force down accordingly... then + or - on the "MZ" setting that controls wheel centering force... there is still a shimmy in the wheel its just in the game and its also very car dependent.... F1 Cars turn the "MZ" all the way down then raise it a bit till it starts to come back then back off... depending on your wheel you might just have to set it to 0 for F1 cars.

waters10
18-06-2015, 01:59
Howdy Freak66 - found a video which explains exactly the issue and shows how to solve it. As GrimeyDog said we need to find the right compromise. The issue comes from the Tire Force and we need to find the right mixture between the global FFB and Tire Force settings.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMXSNDwaWLg
That video was the answer to my problems as well, with my Turbo S. I was having major FFB clipping.

I lowered tire force to 25-30. I don't quite remember. I then set FFB to 100. Then input Jack Spades settings per car. It's not perfect just yet, but it's 90% there!

All I can say is that I can finally race, without dead zone, with proper button layout and very decent FFB! Finally!! Is it possible that in a future patch, that the tire force is set correctly for each individual wheel? This would reduce a lot of these frustrations.

lazpete
18-06-2015, 05:02
I would love to be able to set a default gearshift per car, ie using the H box and clutch pedal on cars that use that, and wheel paddles on the ones using that. Im on CSR, and havnt found a way to do that.

Lasse

Linx
18-06-2015, 08:08
So I experienced a new issue tonight. I put in Grimey's new settings and adjusted my tire force to 20 and control panel FFB to 100. Wheel FFB to 100. First off wheel was still too heavy so I brought down its (wheel) FFB to 80 and that feels better. But the feeling of the rumble strips didn't feel as strong as he fore. But I can say steering through corners and long sweepers felt amazingly smooth and absolutely no clipping. I later turned up tire force to 30 with a little improved results.
Anyways, this is not my issue I'm posting about. I went into free practice to test and tune a McLaren F1. Steering had 0 FFB. Pitted in to find all my FFB settings were correct. Went back out on the track and same thing. I then exited to main screen and went into my garage. Checked FFB tune and everything was what it's supposed to be. I still saved it and applied it to all tracks. I checked and all tracks were ✅. I go back in free practice and all FFB working correctly. I go back to main screen to adjust tire force and when I get back to game, 0 FFB but all values are correct. I think the only way it's working is if I save settings in my garage and apply it to the track. But I have to do it each time I go to the main screen. Not sure if this is a free practice bug but the tunes have been holding in career and time trial and solo races. But the wierd thing is the FFB values are correct it's just not being applied.

lethaLEEkill
18-06-2015, 08:40
I would love to be able to set a default gearshift per car, ie using the H box and clutch pedal on cars that use that, and wheel paddles on the ones using that. Im on CSR, and havnt found a way to do that.

Lasse

really, when my wheel worked before it broke, i always had it set on manual with clutch but just used my paddles on cars with seq gear boxs (automatic clutch as well) and h shifter with appropriate cars,worked fine?(even checked telementry):confused:

gruzzlebeard
18-06-2015, 09:40
....Anyways, this is not my issue I'm posting about. I went into free practice to test and tune a McLaren F1. Steering had 0 FFB. Pitted in to find all my FFB settings were correct. Went back out on the track and same thing. I then exited to main screen and went into my garage. Checked FFB tune and everything was what it's supposed to be. I still saved it and applied it to all tracks. I checked and all tracks were ✅. I go back in free practice and all FFB working correctly. I go back to main screen to adjust tire force and when I get back to game, 0 FFB but all values are correct. I think the only way it's working is if I save settings in my garage and apply it to the track. But I have to do it each time I go to the main screen. Not sure if this is a free practice bug but the tunes have been holding in career and time trial and solo races. But the wierd thing is the FFB values are correct it's just not being applied.

I discovered the same issue but I still cannot reproduce this FBB blackout. It happens from time to time in Free Practises after changing the global FFB or the FFB calibrated by the wheel. Currently I'm not changing the FFB settings in the car at all - I'm just focusing on the global settings. Secondly I don't know if this happens also in the career mode. Still I'm just testing the FFB adjustments and their impact. It takes too much time to make changes when using the career mode.

First I mitigated it by resetting my wheel in game and redo all the adjustments. But I believe it's enough just to go back to the settings--> undo the change which caused the FFB outage --> save it --> go back again and redo the change --> save it again. I'm observing right now if this really helps or only a complete reset.

But the FFB blackout is not the only symptom. Sometimes the wheel turns after starting the practice terribly strong to the right as far as it will go and with a force that I'm concerned about my wheel.
The third sympton is that from time to time I get a too strong FFB and the wheel is oscillationg heavily on the straights. Both Symptoms I mitigate too as described above.

So the root cause might come from the settings which are not saved correctly in the background of the game. (BTW I'm just doing very small changes usually on single items - so I cannot screw up totally the wheel)

BTW this happens with my with my GT3 wheel and with my new CSW V2 which I've got and tested yesterday evening.

Fong74
18-06-2015, 12:55
More positive feedback to share concerning the current pCars version 1.4 and Fanatec driver 219 with firmware 094:

Wheel: CSW V1, CSW V2
Issue with minor versions: decentering of the wheel while driving (this occured on few wheels only)

Current status: the issue disappeared after updating game and firmware for all affected drivers I know.

Much appreciated SMS and Fanatec. Thanks a lot for that!

Islandlad77
18-06-2015, 15:19
Huge thanks to gruzzlebeard for his very informative but also easy to understand video on force feedback. Finally my wheel is great to use and doesn't feel like it's going to snap in two any minute. On my gt3rs I have ffb at 50, tire force down to 21 and wheel ffb set at 100. It will need a few minor tweaks but I'm almost there.

Steve

gruzzlebeard
18-06-2015, 16:05
Just to clarify ;)- Somebody else draw my attention in youtube to this Video because of my GT3 clipping post . Don't know who created it. But he made my day.

Boss_335
19-06-2015, 00:56
Huge thanks to gruzzlebeard for his very informative but also easy to understand video on force feedback. Finally my wheel is great to use and doesn't feel like it's going to snap in two any minute. On my gt3rs I have ffb at 50, tire force down to 21 and wheel ffb set at 100. It will need a few minor tweaks but I'm almost there.

Steve

Thanks Steve, I've been struggling with clipping on my GT2. Are the settings provided in the general controller settings menu, after changing them are you using Jack Spades setting on the individual vehicles? Sorry for being a pain but I'm this wheel feels fragile, and I don't want to push it too hard. Are you able to post some screen shots to help a fellow Fanatec user out?

Just a general question, I'm new to the GT2, does this wheel tend to have decentring issues or is there something in the setting I can tweak as I feel like I have to recalibrate the wheel after every second race.

Jerem33FR
19-06-2015, 07:12
Hi,

I'm playing with a GT2 (firmware 756) and here my settings after hours of testing !

- Tire Force 25
- FFB (game) 60
- FFB (Wheel) 80-100, depending cars
- Jack Spades Classic settings, just "-1" rate on Master Scale.

With theses settings, i've got a very good global feeling, good sense of kerbs and no clipping on telemetry.

Thanks to Remco, Fong, Grimey, Gruzzle and all for your shares.

Jérem'

Sankyo
19-06-2015, 07:42
Just a general question, I'm new to the GT2, does this wheel tend to have decentring issues or is there something in the setting I can tweak as I feel like I have to recalibrate the wheel after every second race.
In general the wheel's center position should be stable, no recalibrating of the center position required. If it does seem to decenter (best to check this by connecting it to a PC/laptop with the Fanatec driver installed), then there might be an issue with the postion sensor in the wheel and you should contact Fanatec Support.

GrimeyDog
19-06-2015, 08:49
Hi,

I'm playing with a GT2 and here my settings after hours of testing !

- Tire Force 25
- FFB (game) 60
- FFB (Wheel) 80-100, depending cars
- Jack Spades Classic settings, just "-1" rate on Master Scale.

With theses settings, i've got a very good global feeling, good sense of kerbs and no clipping on telemetry.

Thanks to Remco, Fong, Grimey, Gruzzle and all for your shares.

Jérem'


What Fw are you using??? If your Using FW 94 then the FW is causing the wheel to be 1/8th off centerd to the Left... Hopefully fanatec will fix that with the Next Fw Release.

Sankyo
19-06-2015, 09:12
What Fw are you using??? If your Using FW 94 then the FW is causing the wheel to be 1/8th off centerd to the Left... Hopefully fanatec will fix that with the Next Fw Release.
Since not every single CSW v2 user is reporting this issue, I'd be cautious about blaming the hardware for this unless you have solid proof and confirmation of this.

vallist
19-06-2015, 09:25
Since not every single CSW v2 user is reporting this issue, I'd be cautious about blaming the hardware for this unless you have solid proof and confirmation of this.
Agree. My CSW v2 works fine.

toontoonizer
19-06-2015, 09:35
I have tried, like really tried to find some settings that work for me after the 1.4 update but i simply can't. Sacrificed hours of my time, i've tried all the tips, followed Grimey's settings, even pretty much read every page of this 100 page thread but the FFB on the CSR Wheel is wrecked. (Also CSR Elite pedals)

The problem is quite simple, the FFB monitor shows clipping with a tire force of 6. Yes, with tire force set to 6 I get clipping. So i have to turn down the master scale (in car settings) to 10 and the clipping stops. But then I have tire force of 6 and master spindle of 10 = Such weak FFB i have to check that the wheel is still on. the slider moves in increments of 5 so I can't check between a tire force of 1 and 6.

What if I set Tire force to 1? NO CLIPPING!! But obviously, no FFB through the wheel. Maybe if i turn all the in car FFB to 200, but I shouldn't have to do that.

This is all with using Grimey's settings from his PDF with FFB set to 100 in game. Changing the FFB makes no difference to clipping. The standard 1.4 settings rip the wheel out of my hands and cause the table to its on to move.

Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone experienced the same thing - any advice?

The game is unplayable with the FFB clipping. Not to mention that the FFB is so strong with a tireforce above 10 that I don't need to go to the gym. That said, the game is shelved until I can find a solution to this, so would appreciate any help as i do really want to play this game, if only to extract some value from it.

gruzzlebeard
19-06-2015, 09:35
I've got now a new a CSW V2 and I've two questions now regarding the driver settings.

a) Which dampening strenght I have to use in the driver settings on my Laptop? 0-100% or something in between?
b) Are these driver setting relevant for me at all? I'm using the wheel with my PS4.
In other words - are the driver settings only stored on my Laptop or also in my CSW V2 software and used with the PS4?

I installed the latest driver v219 with the embeded FW 94 with the following settings on my Laptop:
Wheel angle: 900 Degrees (that's clear)
Dampening strenght: 100% ???

Boss_335
19-06-2015, 10:15
In general the wheel's center position should be stable, no recalibrating of the center position required. If it does seem to decenter (best to check this by connecting it to a PC/laptop with the Fanatec driver installed), then there might be an issue with the postion sensor in the wheel and you should contact Fanatec Support.

Thanks Remco, what test do I complete on PC to determine if there's an issue?

Sankyo
19-06-2015, 11:15
Thanks Remco, what test do I complete on PC to determine if there's an issue?
If you found that your wheel decentered in-game, when having exited the game and restarted the wheel, it should still show the decenter. If yes, connect to PC and verify if the driver shows a non-zero position when the wheel is centered.

Then in the PC driver you could do an additional test by resetting the center position and verify that it is zeroed again. Then turn the wheel over its complete range a number of times (if the effect is small it could take a good number of turns), turn the wheel to the center position and verify if the position counter still reads zero or not. If not, it has the mentioned hardware issue.

Sankyo
19-06-2015, 11:15
I've got now a new a CSW V2 and I've two questions now regarding the driver settings.

a) Which dampening strenght I have to use in the driver settings on my Laptop? 0-100% or something in between?
b) Are these driver setting relevant for me at all? I'm using the wheel with my PS4.
In other words - are the driver settings only stored on my Laptop or also in my CSW V2 software and used with the PS4?

I installed the latest driver v219 with the embeded FW 94 with the following settings on my Laptop:
Wheel angle: 900 Degrees (that's clear)
Dampening strenght: 100% ???
What you set in the PC driver has no relation to the PS4, only the on-wheel settings.