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Freak66
19-06-2015, 11:19
Is that only with patch 1.4, or has it always been that way? Does it also do that in other race sims?

Remco, since patch 1.4 only, no such effects before patch 1.4 and yesterday I tested Forza 4 on Xbox 360: everything perfect, no difference between right and left FFB depending on FFB set on Wheel.
What is that?

Sankyo
19-06-2015, 11:21
Remco, since patch 1.4 only, no such effects before patch 1.4 and yesterday I tested Forza 4 on Xbox 360: everything perfect, no difference between right and left FFB depending on FFB set on Wheel.
What is that?
What firmware version do you have installed on your Turbo S?

Freak66
19-06-2015, 11:29
What firmware version do you have installed on your Turbo S?

Remco, PWTS 756 fw

GrimeyDog
19-06-2015, 11:43
Since not every single CSW v2 user is reporting this issue, I'd be cautious about blaming the hardware for this unless you have solid proof and confirmation of this.

im Not Sure what is Causing the Wheel to loose Center ive Tested it with other Games and FW 94 seems to work Fine... its only with PCars that i have Loss of Center issue. ..on PC the wheel ceter is Straight and Level... when in start menu of PCars the wheel is Straight and Level when in the Car Tuning Menu it is Straight and Level also...ONLY During a Race Does the Wheel Loose Center and when i exit back to the Dash or the Car Tuning Menu the Wheel is Straight and Level Again... Very Strange....From what ive been Reading Most of the people that are using a Stand alone Rim Have went back to FW 65 because it does Not Loose Center... the People that are using a XBox 1 Hub are Forced to use FW 94 because FW 65 Does Not Support the XB1 Hub.

I Dunno what the Prob is with PCars but it Needs alot of Work... It Has the Potential to be a Great Game but as it is Now its just Not Good... I Only Hope that the Game Gets Patched Soon so it can be Enjoyable before the PCars Fan Base Looses interest or the PCars Project just gets abandoned Totally.

I Have a Love Hate Relationship with Pcars... Ive figured out all the settings and There is Nothing Left to Tweek... Some Cars Feel Great and Some are Not Good at all No Matter what the Settings ... its All up to Future game updates... So Far 1 1/2 Months and Not even 10 Races Completed... Just Sittin Here waitin on the Next update Hoping its Better than the Last.

Dont Know what or Who to Blame... Just Hoping i Havent wasted My $$$ there was sooo Much Hype about PCars im just hoping it can live up to it.... SOON.

Sankyo
19-06-2015, 13:46
Remco, since patch 1.4 only, no such effects before patch 1.4 and yesterday I tested Forza 4 on Xbox 360: everything perfect, no difference between right and left FFB depending on FFB set on Wheel.
What is that?
Can you catch this asymmetric FFB strength in a video that shows the FFB meter on-screen (telemetry HUD)?

GrimeyDog
19-06-2015, 15:14
Remco Van Dijk do you have PS4 Pcars and if So what wheel and settings do you use with it??? all the Race Cars IE: Ruff Rgt8 Gt3 Drive well with the Same Globle FFB settings No Clipping and Great FFB Feel.... But the Regular Cars IE: Ruff Rgt8 Have Massive amounts of FFB Clipping and when you Reduce the in car FFB settings there is Little to No FFB or Road Feel.... Can you Try these 2 cars the Ruff Rgt8 Gt3 vs the Ruff Rgt8.... I Can Not find a Globle FFB Balance between Race Car and Street Car... ive even just left the Globle and Car Settings stock and still No luck.... i drive all the Cars with Stock Suspension tunes.

I think that Every 1 should post what Car and Track they are getting FFB Clipping with because there Seems to be a Huge FFB Difference between Race Cars and Regular Cars... Maybe this will Help Pin Point the FFB Problems.

If Many people can Test the same Car and Track we Might make More Progress Quicker.

Freak66
19-06-2015, 16:47
Can you catch this asymmetric FFB strength in a video that shows the FFB meter on-screen (telemetry HUD)?

Remco, I will take a look at the FFB grap (and take a video) the next time I play and come back on that.

Freak66
19-06-2015, 16:49
Remco Van Dijk do you have PS4 Pcars and if So what wheel and settings do you use with it??? all the Race Cars IE: Ruff Rgt8 Gt3 Drive well with the Same Globle FFB settings No Clipping and Great FFB Feel.... But the Regular Cars IE: Ruff Rgt8 Have Massive amounts of FFB Clipping and when you Reduce the in car FFB settings there is Little to No FFB or Road Feel.... Can you Try these 2 cars the Ruff Rgt8 Gt3 vs the Ruff Rgt8.... I Can Not find a Globle FFB Balance between Race Car and Street Car... ive even just left the Globle and Car Settings stock and still No luck.... i drive all the Cars with Stock Suspension tunes.

I think that Every 1 should post what Car and Track they are getting FFB Clipping with because there Seems to be a Huge FFB Difference between Race Cars and Regular Cars... Maybe this will Help Pin Point the FFB Problems.

If Many people can Test the same Car and Track we Might make More Progress Quicker.

In you signature: "2 Buttkickers!!!" ????

Titzon Toast
19-06-2015, 19:58
In you signature: "2 Buttkickers!!!" ????

One for each cheek.

GrimeyDog
19-06-2015, 20:59
http://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=CAGUULIKEVZXsLYukpgOngIuYAZiX7dUF-Ieq6PwBhfLK8oYCCAQQASCz78wUKANgyb6ci8Ck2A-gAba6qP0DyAEHqgQnT9BgIRLvGLZOdFuJj353pumXQ9wZschGQUStiIReP5T-0vToeMLygAWX4LwLwAUFiAYBoAYm2AYCgAeyxdcCkAcDqAemvhvYBwHgEo_n0-7Ph9WwCA&ohost=www.google.com&cid=5Gi5DlgOYeTEaxLUQrxIOspTAxP3A2fMAXgT8p3-p0FrAg&sig=AOD64_1vmfCJGMnOthXMSDjrrJ6oyNk2og&ctype=5&clui=8&rct=j&q=&ved=0CB8Qwg8&adurl=http://www.spectrumaudio.com/buttkicker-bk-gr2-buttkicker-gamer-low-frequency-transducer-for-pc-console-gaming/


Once you get used to Racing with these you will Never Satisfy to Not Have 1... or 2 of them LOL

SlightlyFreckled
19-06-2015, 21:53
Anyone can tell me how different is the pc version and ps4? I am talking support with fanatec wheels and bugs. Steam has it 40% off today and I'm worried it'll be the same. Only bought on ps4 cause friends(none of them play after week 1 of owning the game).

NemessiS82
19-06-2015, 22:30
I have tried, like really tried to find some settings that work for me after the 1.4 update but i simply can't. Sacrificed hours of my time, i've tried all the tips, followed Grimey's settings, even pretty much read every page of this 100 page thread but the FFB on the CSR Wheel is wrecked. (Also CSR Elite pedals)

The problem is quite simple, the FFB monitor shows clipping with a tire force of 6. Yes, with tire force set to 6 I get clipping. So i have to turn down the master scale (in car settings) to 10 and the clipping stops. But then I have tire force of 6 and master spindle of 10 = Such weak FFB i have to check that the wheel is still on. the slider moves in increments of 5 so I can't check between a tire force of 1 and 6.

What if I set Tire force to 1? NO CLIPPING!! But obviously, no FFB through the wheel. Maybe if i turn all the in car FFB to 200, but I shouldn't have to do that.

This is all with using Grimey's settings from his PDF with FFB set to 100 in game. Changing the FFB makes no difference to clipping. The standard 1.4 settings rip the wheel out of my hands and cause the table to its on to move.

Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone experienced the same thing - any advice?

The game is unplayable with the FFB clipping. Not to mention that the FFB is so strong with a tireforce above 10 that I don't need to go to the gym. That said, the game is shelved until I can find a solution to this, so would appreciate any help as i do really want to play this game, if only to extract some value from it.

Another with the same problem... No one with a good ffb on a CSR wheel?

Robhd
19-06-2015, 22:53
http://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=CAGUULIKEVZXsLYukpgOngIuYAZiX7dUF-Ieq6PwBhfLK8oYCCAQQASCz78wUKANgyb6ci8Ck2A-gAba6qP0DyAEHqgQnT9BgIRLvGLZOdFuJj353pumXQ9wZschGQUStiIReP5T-0vToeMLygAWX4LwLwAUFiAYBoAYm2AYCgAeyxdcCkAcDqAemvhvYBwHgEo_n0-7Ph9WwCA&ohost=www.google.com&cid=5Gi5DlgOYeTEaxLUQrxIOspTAxP3A2fMAXgT8p3-p0FrAg&sig=AOD64_1vmfCJGMnOthXMSDjrrJ6oyNk2og&ctype=5&clui=8&rct=j&q=&ved=0CB8Qwg8&adurl=http://www.spectrumaudio.com/buttkicker-bk-gr2-buttkicker-gamer-low-frequency-transducer-for-pc-console-gaming/


Once you get used to Racing with these you will Never Satisfy to Not Have 1... or 2 of them LOL

I bought an original buttkicker brand new at a discount price but the damned thing blew up after a couple of months... Which version do you use and are they more reliable/durable than the original version?

Linx
20-06-2015, 02:10
Hey Grimey, though this is off topic, but are the Buttkicker systems strong enough to feel? I was considering buying one and read a couple of reviews saying you can only slightly feel them. I have a Playseat and they mak3 one to fit on it.

2stains
20-06-2015, 03:35
Hi Jerem33FR could u please tell me what firmware your gt2 is and if that was standard firmware or updated by u ?

GrimeyDog
20-06-2015, 03:59
Hey Grimey, though this is off topic, but are the Buttkicker systems strong enough to feel? I was considering buying one and read a couple of reviews saying you can only slightly feel them. I have a Playseat and they mak3 one to fit on it.

1 of them is More than Strong enough to Really Feel it!!! Buttkickers are always Running out of Supply so i bought a Second 1 just to Have it... Feel Great!!! With 2 of them i can keep them both set Low and Pleanty Rumble without over working either of them.

TRD
20-06-2015, 04:01
Right, . . Well that really sux doesnt it lol, 911 turbo was working before 1.4, just with a few bugs, now its completely unresponsive and unrecognised by the ps4 at all, I guess thats the end of the line for me with pcars since now not only is my g27 useless, but now my fanatec wheel which was working prior to update, is now officially insupported aswell :( have fun people, im out.


Not to bust your bubble but I think I remember that they said only the Turbo S will work and not the regular Turbo. Though I heard this before the game release maybe they changed that now.

GrimeyDog
20-06-2015, 04:02
I bought an original buttkicker brand new at a discount price but the damned thing blew up after a couple of months... Which version do you use and are they more reliable/durable than the original version?

The Quality is there Now... I use the Buttkicker Gamer 2... 1 of them is 3+yrs old and the othe is 1 yr old... No Diff in performance either... The older 1 works just as good as the newer 1

Jerem33FR
20-06-2015, 06:34
Hi Jerem33FR could u please tell me what firmware your gt2 is and if that was standard firmware or updated by u ?

Hi,

It's the 756 Firmware, with the original 681, the game freeze.

I updated myself, very easy, just follow carefully instructions of the update program ;-)

lazpete
20-06-2015, 08:23
I have tried, like really tried to find some settings that work for me after the 1.4 update but i simply can't. Sacrificed hours of my time, i've tried all the tips, followed Grimey's settings, even pretty much read every page of this 100 page thread but the FFB on the CSR Wheel is wrecked. (Also CSR Elite pedals)

The problem is quite simple, the FFB monitor shows clipping with a tire force of 6. Yes, with tire force set to 6 I get clipping. So i have to turn down the master scale (in car settings) to 10 and the clipping stops. But then I have tire force of 6 and master spindle of 10 = Such weak FFB i have to check that the wheel is still on. the slider moves in increments of 5 so I can't check between a tire force of 1 and 6.

What if I set Tire force to 1? NO CLIPPING!! But obviously, no FFB through the wheel. Maybe if i turn all the in car FFB to 200, but I shouldn't have to do that.

This is all with using Grimey's settings from his PDF with FFB set to 100 in game. Changing the FFB makes no difference to clipping. The standard 1.4 settings rip the wheel out of my hands and cause the table to its on to move.

Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone experienced the same thing - any advice?

The game is unplayable with the FFB clipping. Not to mention that the FFB is so strong with a tireforce above 10 that I don't need to go to the gym. That said, the game is shelved until I can find a solution to this, so would appreciate any help as i do really want to play this game, if only to extract some value from it.

I have the same setup, and spent a few hours yesterday to set it up.

I use a combo of Jack´s car tweaks and this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMXSNDwaWLg
Make sure that the wheel settings are reset before anything else, in the wheel settings page in the game.

I got a very nice FFB on cars that i can use Jacks tweeks on, sometimes a have to adjust the Master scale and sop scale to adjust the tightness of the wheel.
Make sure your wheel FFB settings aro ok, and get rid of the spring (OFF).

Lasse

Hotty
20-06-2015, 08:32
Hy,,
I drive with Fanatec Csr and Csr Elite Pedals.

First reset your Wheel ingame.The Wheel is set to
Sen 540
Ff 90
Sho 100
Drift off
Abs 100
Lin 000
Deadzone 0-10
Spring 0
Dpr 0
Acl off

In game settings,
Steering deadzone 0
Steering sensitivity 80
Throttle deadzone 0,
Throttle sensitivity 60
Brake deadzone 0,
Brake sensitivity 60
Clutch deadzone 0,
Clutch sensitivity 50,
Speed filtering sensitivity 25
Controller filtering sensitivity 50
Force feed back 100,
Gear/ rpm display yes,
Controller input mode 3,
Advanced off,
Set Cluch to a Botton
Ingame go to the FFB Settings and set Tireforce to 20,when you drive a Car go to the Car Tuning Settings and set
for each Car Masterscale to 28-34 how you like the feeling .For me so it works fine,hope i can Help.
Gredding Hotty.

Sankyo
20-06-2015, 16:48
I don't have any console guys so unfortunately I cannot help with PS4 FFB settings or issues.

Raikku
20-06-2015, 17:37
Is CSR Elite-wheel working properly in this now? Have been thinkin if I give my old wheel(one of them) to my friend who has this on PS4.
I myself use my CSW v2.

geb69
20-06-2015, 17:38
Hi, I'm on the Fanatec GT3 RS V2 with CSP V1 (PS4) and finally had some real good fun with that game today! :-)

The easyiest working setup in game:

* reset wheel settings to Defaults (triangle)
* set tire force to 20
* optional set deadzone to 0,05 (for V2 0.10 ist too much!)
* create new car settings or reset them to default
* optional enter one of jack spades settings

Wheel Settings:
SEN off
FFB 100
SHO 100
DRI off
ABS 80 (for CSP V1 break paddles)
LIN 000
DEA 000
SPR off
DPR off

Tested with Formular B, Focus RS and Formular Rookie.
If FFB is to strong then lower it on the wheel to 90 or 80!

Now I can see how great this game really is!
Maybe SMS could set 20 in the next patch as default for tire force on the old fanatecs!

Regards

Sebyrem
20-06-2015, 19:02
Hi
Could you tell me where is Tire Force ? As I use French version I'm not sur to setup the right one. Screen copy may help.

Sankyo
20-06-2015, 19:31
Is CSR Elite-wheel working properly in this now? Have been thinkin if I give my old wheel(one of them) to my friend who has this on PS4.
I myself use my CSW v2.

Should be working, if not, shout.

Titzon Toast
20-06-2015, 22:54
Hi, I'm on the Fanatec GT3 RS V2 with CSP V1 (PS4) and finally had some real good fun with that game today! :-)

The easyiest working setup in game:

* reset wheel settings to Defaults (triangle)
* set tire force to 20
* optional set deadzone to 0,05 (for V2 0.10 ist too much!)
* create new car settings or reset them to default
* optional enter one of jack spades settings

Wheel Settings:
SEN off
FFB 100
SHO 100
DRI off
ABS 80 (for CSP V1 break paddles)
LIN 000
DEA 000
SPR off
DPR off

Tested with Formular B, Focus RS and Formular Rookie.
If FFB is to strong then lower it on the wheel to 90 or 80!

Now I can see how great this game really is!
Maybe SMS could set 20 in the next patch as default for tire force on the old fanatecs!

Regards

Are you using those settings with your wheel calibrated to 900 degrees in game please?

Titzon Toast
21-06-2015, 00:25
I've spent hours tonight trying all sorts of different settings and configurations, both in game and on my wheel, but I just can't find a set up that works for me on my Turbo-S.
I can't feel anything at all from the rear end of any cars. When the rear let's go I don't find out until the car has started to swap ends, and by then it's too late!
It feels so weird being so disconnected, it's just odd. I've got the Jack Spades ffb app and I've dialed in all of his different recommended settings but to no avail.
I've been driving for years irl and I've driven the stones out of every type of vehicle imaginable and never experienced a sensation like this before. Never in a game for that matter either and I've had a wheel for years now too.
I'm at a loss for what to do now if I'm honest.

lethaLEEkill
21-06-2015, 08:00
hey guys, I was hoping there might be someone on the east coast of Australia, that has an old wheel that still has a good belt drive and wheel shaft for a gt2(csr,turbo s or gt3).not a working wheel, as i'd like it cheap? I can't afford a new wheel at the moment so i hope this could be the fastest and cheapest way to get back behind the wheel again, any help appreciated! thanks :)

Nono
21-06-2015, 15:07
Is CSR Elite-wheel working properly in this now? Have been thinkin if I give my old wheel(one of them) to my friend who has this on PS4.
I myself use my CSW v2.

Yes it work fine. I use Jack Spade settings (Bump Plus), with arround 35-40 tire force. Very good feeling since patch 1.4 ;o)

GrimeyDog
21-06-2015, 15:49
This Custom Tune your Own FFB thing Maybe the Best thing that Happend in Sim Racing yet... Once you get your Basic Tweek Down its Easy going from then on...The FFB Effects are Definitly in there you just have to Tweek em out... I Just Hope that they dont Change Everything Again!!!

The Only Set Back is the Lack of Detailed instructions... Im a Tweeker so i Have No Problem Sitting for Hours just pilfering through settings 1 by 1 to See what it does....This Method is Brand New and it Can and will be Frustrating at Times Especially if your Not a Tweeker or Dont have Patience...

Jerem33FR
21-06-2015, 17:05
The Only Set Back is the Lack of Detailed instructions... Im a Tweeker so i Have No Problem Sitting for Hours just pilfering through settings 1 by 1 to See what it does....This Method is Brand New and it Can and will be Frustrating at Times Especially if your Not a Tweeker or Dont have Patience...

+1 !

geb69
21-06-2015, 20:06
Are you using those settings with your wheel calibrated to 900 degrees in game please?

This works with and without calibrating wheel and paddles! Patch 1.4 of course.
I have calibrated the wheel (to max and 90 degrees) but not the paddles because of the navigate problem after that.

It is not meant as perfect setup but it is the first I can drive with :-)
From this you may start to fine adjust car ffb to your personal feelings.

geb69
21-06-2015, 20:17
Hi
Could you tell me where is Tire Force ? As I use French version I'm not sur to setup the right one. Screen copy may help.

Go to control settings where you see a picture of the wheel and then press the gas pedal.
On that screen it should be the first option (if I remember correctly :-))

Anyway, it is a wheel option and not a car option - which is a good thing.
Because after that you can use jack spades settings or the default settings on the cars with no or very little FFB clipping.

Titzon Toast
21-06-2015, 20:27
The Only Set Back is the Lack of Detailed instructions... Im a Tweeker so i Have No Problem Sitting for Hours just pilfering through settings 1 by 1 to See what it does....This Method is Brand New and it Can and will be Frustrating at Times Especially if your Not a Tweeker or Dont have Patience...

It's a fairly major set back in all fairness. It stinks of laziness if you ask me. Why not have some presets built into the game instead of just leaving an open Dev kit with no explanation as to what every setting does?
I'm beyond pissed off with this game at this stage. Nearly two months after release and the game is still virtually unplayable for me.

srodrigo31
21-06-2015, 20:53
Hello,

Apologies if there is already the explanation, but I have not found it. I am unable to entering the wheel mode to make the adjustments, etc. Just got the game and been there for a few. My wheel is a PWTS (911 Turbo S).

Many thanks in advance for your help

Linx
21-06-2015, 21:33
I've spent hours tonight trying all sorts of different settings and configurations, both in game and on my wheel, but I just can't find a set up that works for me on my Turbo-S.
I can't feel anything at all from the rear end of any cars. When the rear let's go I don't find out until the car has started to swap ends, and by then it's too late!
It feels so weird being so disconnected, it's just odd. I've got the Jack Spades ffb app and I've dialed in all of his different recommended settings but to no avail.
I've been driving for years irl and I've driven the stones out of every type of vehicle imaginable and never experienced a sensation like this before. Never in a game for that matter either and I've had a wheel for years now too.
I'm at a loss for what to do now if I'm honest.
I'm not sure what it is with the Jack Spades settings, because while it works for many people, it did absolutely nothing for me but give me a dead wheel. And I tried on different cars and followed the directions carefully multiple times. Give GrimeyDog's settings a try. It works perfectly for me and you only have to put the same settings in one time for each car, unlike the Jack Spade settings that has different values for each and every car. GrimeyDog's settings work perfect for me.

Rs60
21-06-2015, 23:51
I worked through the Pcars ffb setup guide, and could not tune my fantatec gt3 rs wheel anywhere close to what he described, to bring the basic ffb setup under clipping level. After working with all those parameters, I'm pretty sur the basic ffb has a math error, maybe a decimal point factor of 10, as only way to close is to set tire force to 5 and then I can get below clipping. Not perfect but this allows for just tuning the cars ffb slightly instead of compensating for the main ffb issues. Some work fine at the default settings. Here's my setup. Wheel settings are sen off and ffb 100, all others off until done with ffb.
Tire force 5. I'd really even set 4, but u cant
Per wheel movement -0.10
Per wheel movement squared 0.10
These 2 optional. Reduces some of the draggy feeling with these wheels
Wheel position smoothing 0.04
DeAdzone removal and falloff 0 unless u have an issue.
Linkage scale 0
Linkage stiffness 100
Relative adjust gain 0.90 can be used to tweak overall gain
Relative adjust bleed 0.20
Relative adjust clamp0.86
Scoop knee .7
Scoop reduction .15 both default
Soft clipping half 0.5
Soft clipping full 0.5
These settings will allow the default car ffb settings to mostly not clip, u can then tune them as intended as they are the suspension physics input to the wheel, not compensation for ffb main settings issues.

Not a perfect setup, as some of the main ffb adjustments ranges are a bit compromised by the force error, but much better to me in terms of feel, and feedback. If wheel feels light add some spring on the fanatec wheel setup

Hope this helps, and hope they get this sorted soon, but is much more drivable now for me

Ps may want to reset wheel first. Test on cars u haven't tweaked ffb or reset to get in range first

GrimeyDog
22-06-2015, 02:14
All Wheel FFB Tweek!!! Not Even Aero was added to the Car... LOL...

Sooo I Have Perfected my FFB Tweek and Now its Time to Really put it to the Test... So Far So good getting Good Results... The Ariel Atom is a Beast to Control with No Assist plus you Feel every Bump in the.Road.

You wanaa Have Fun Turn on the Camra Shake once your FFB is Tweeked Right... It Give Sooo Much More Immersion....it actually Helps me Drive Faster... the Camra Shake is Accurate and in Sync with the wheel and it adds to the Road Feel.

Linx
22-06-2015, 03:10
Where do you see a option for camera shake?

Sebyrem
22-06-2015, 04:19
Thanks it works now, but I have to fine tune it cause I feel with too low FFB effects. I like it with strong one as we can get driving a real sports car.

Titzon Toast
22-06-2015, 08:15
I'm not sure what it is with the Jack Spades settings, because while it works for many people, it did absolutely nothing for me but give me a dead wheel. And I tried on different cars and followed the directions carefully multiple times. Give GrimeyDog's settings a try. It works perfectly for me and you only have to put the same settings in one time for each car, unlike the Jack Spade settings that has different values for each and every car. GrimeyDog's settings work perfect for me.

It's a strange one alright, the global settings by Jack recommend a tyre force of 100 but that seems to cause severe clipping on the telemetry screen, and makes the wheel feel very heavy.
I'm gonna set my gear up again later on try some more tinkering.
@GrimeyDog
What settings would you recommend for me to adjust to give me more feeling over what the rear of the car is doing please?
I'm guessing it's in the SOP settings anyway!

Islandlad77
22-06-2015, 09:28
Thanks Steve, I've been struggling with clipping on my GT2. Are the settings provided in the general controller settings menu, after changing them are you using Jack Spades setting on the individual vehicles? Sorry for being a pain but I'm this wheel feels fragile, and I don't want to push it too hard. Are you able to post some screen shots to help a fellow Fanatec user out?

Just a general question, I'm new to the GT2, does this wheel tend to have decentring issues or is there something in the setting I can tweak as I feel like I have to recalibrate the wheel after every second race.

I'm using the gt3rs mate. Basically the in game settings I've got tire force down to 20, ffback set at 45. Wheel settings - ffback 90, sen off, spr off, abs 85, all other settings zero.
I'm using jack spades classic settings for car setup, the only thing I adjust to suit my liking is the master scale and sop scale, but these need to be set the same.

Steve

MortalTypeR
22-06-2015, 09:56
As a first time poster I would like to simply say how grateful I am to all the forum posters and in particular those amongst you like GrimeyDog without whose help I would have given up on Project Cars with my Turbo S wheel. Having used some of the settings posted I am able to at least enjoy the game to an extent whilst dedicated gamers give up their time to help others.

I for one appreciate it!

Thank you.
MortalTypeR.

Sankyo
22-06-2015, 10:20
I worked through the Pcars ffb setup guide, and could not tune my fantatec gt3 rs wheel anywhere close to what he described, to bring the basic ffb setup under clipping level. After working with all those parameters, I'm pretty sur the basic ffb has a math error, maybe a decimal point factor of 10, as only way to close is to set tire force to 5 and then I can get below clipping. Not perfect but this allows for just tuning the cars ffb slightly instead of compensating for the main ffb issues. Some work fine at the default settings. Here's my setup. Wheel settings are sen off and ffb 100, all others off until done with ffb.
Tire force 5. I'd really even set 4, but u cant
Per wheel movement -0.10
Per wheel movement squared 0.10
These 2 optional. Reduces some of the draggy feeling with these wheels
Wheel position smoothing 0.04
DeAdzone removal and falloff 0 unless u have an issue.
Linkage scale 0
Linkage stiffness 100
Relative adjust gain 0.90 can be used to tweak overall gain
Relative adjust bleed 0.20
Relative adjust clamp0.86
Scoop knee .7
Scoop reduction .15 both default
Soft clipping half 0.5
Soft clipping full 0.5
These settings will allow the default car ffb settings to mostly not clip, u can then tune them as intended as they are the suspension physics input to the wheel, not compensation for ffb main settings issues.

Not a perfect setup, as some of the main ffb adjustments ranges are a bit compromised by the force error, but much better to me in terms of feel, and feedback. If wheel feels light add some spring on the fanatec wheel setup

Hope this helps, and hope they get this sorted soon, but is much more drivable now for me

Ps may want to reset wheel first. Test on cars u haven't tweaked ffb or reset to get in range first
The apparent tyre force value error has been reported and is being looked into, not sure about the latest status though.

GrimeyDog
22-06-2015, 10:22
It's a strange one alright, the global settings by Jack recommend a tyre force of 100 but that seems to cause severe clipping on the telemetry screen, and makes the wheel feel very heavy.
I'm gonna set my gear up again later on try some more tinkering.
@GrimeyDog
What settings would you recommend for me to adjust to give me more feeling over what the rear of the car is doing please?
I'm guessing it's in the SOP settings anyway!

You will Have to play with the SOP settings... Try my FFB PDF im Sure you can Tweek it to your Liking... I Have Pleanty of Rear and Front end Feel... You will Have to Cut the Global and the Masters because i set it for the V2 wheel but i made it easy to Tweek + or - Where Noted to get the right FFB level for your wheel then + and - to bring out the feel you want.... Look at My Profile the Tweek should be there its "GrimeyDog PCars v1.4 tweek v#07" thats the Last 1.... after you get your FFB and other Numbers Right all you will Have to do is + or - on the "MZ" to set it per Car Class.... Cars with very little Body Roll get "MZ" 100... Ex: LMP1 cars and Gt4 cars get "MZ" 60... You will Have to Tweek to find the Sweet Spot for your Wheel and FFB taste... any other setting Not Listed Does Nothing that i Noticed and Should be set to 0. i dont use smoothing or Damper but they may work with your wheel.... But Tweek the settings as is First then explore Damper and Smoothing. Its all explained in the PDF.

Admire123
22-06-2015, 11:32
Hi everybody

I have a Fanatec GT3 RS V2 Wheel and was also not so happy with the Jack Spade settings.
The tireforce is to strong for the Fanatec Wheel.

Tireforce for the Fanatec GT3 (and maybe also for the GT2) need to be 30.

With this much lower tireforce, the FFB is very low.
So i decided to make my own settings.
I spent all the weekend to test my settings.

Because of the many settings and the many cars, i only tested it with the RUF RGT-8 and the Ford Escort RS 1600.

I am very happy with this settings and the 2 cars above drives like hell now. In a positive way.
Drifting is now also much easier then before.

If you speak german, go to this link, because i already opened a threat in the german PC Cars Forum:
http://pcars-forum.de/thema/3192-fanatec-gt3-rs-v2-force-feedback-einstellungen-weiterentwicklung-aus-jack-spade/?postID=27049#post27049

You can also download the file with my settings here.
But its in german.
Just use the Fanatec settings.



If you like the settings, i can try to translate it to english.



Can you please make a English version? Thanks

GrimeyDog
22-06-2015, 11:59
This is My Latest PDF... Its Pretty Much the Same as the Last 1 i just added some info that will Hopefully Explain and Help you to understand what some settings do. You will Have to Tweek to find your Wheel FFB Level and Your individual FFB Taste but this is a Blue Print of what to + or - and get you on your way... i think This is the Final PDF for PCars update v1.4
if you have any Questions ask... Post them or inbox me a Message me and i will try to answer.

I Love Sim Racing and im Glad i Can Help you All.... See you on the Track... LOL Feel Free to send me a Friend inv PSN, XBox & P.C Steam Tags are posted in My Signature

Thanx for the Support
GrimeyDog

LordDRIFT
22-06-2015, 14:35
Do the fanatic wheels experience Fade? Are all the issues sorted now? Any recommendations for ps4 fanatec purchase and why?

GrimeyDog
22-06-2015, 14:51
The Older wheels Yes... But ive been using the V2 and i been Monitering wheel temp with a infared thermometer... Its warm out Now so idle Temp is 80°F after a Couple Races the Temp has been as High as 120°F - 125°F Max so far... Thats where it Seems to Stay under Heavy use and i Have Not Noticed any Signifigant FFB Fade.... I Guess thats the Normal Range My Router when i Have PS4, PC, Son is on XB1 all on Line and everthing else Wife Laptop ETC: is at 100°F so i guess the wheel is Not that Hot... It Still Blows Cool air out the Back... The V2 Fan Design is a Big improvement from the V1,CSR E and GT wheel Models... Im always Checking the Fans to Make Sure they are on. But No Noticeable Fade in the V2.

LordDRIFT
22-06-2015, 14:59
The Older wheels Yes... But ive been using the V2 and i been Monitering wheel temp with a infared thermometer... Its warm out Now so idle Temp is 80°F after a Couple Races the Temp has been as High as 120°F - 125°F Max so far... Thats where it Seems to Stay under Heavy use and i Have Not Noticed any Signifigant FFB Fade.... I Guess thats the Normal Range My Router when i Have PS4, PC, Son is on XB1 all on Line and everthing else Wife Laptop ETC: is at 100°F so i guess the wheel is Not that Hot... It Still Blows Cool air out the Back... The V2 Fan Design is a Big improvement from the V1,CSR E and GT wheel Models... Im always Checking the Fans to Make Sure they are on. But No Noticeable Fade in the V2.

On the fanatec website it says the v2 doesn't ship till 8/15 and is by invitation only. What's that about?

Sankyo
22-06-2015, 15:05
On the fanatec website it says the v2 doesn't ship till 8/15 and is by invitation only. What's that about?
It's about limited availability/production capacity :)

LordDRIFT
22-06-2015, 15:07
It's about limited availability/production capacity :)

Here we go again... I had to overpay for the t300 because it was unobtanium now I have to beg these guys to take my money. When did gaming turn into this?

GrimeyDog
22-06-2015, 15:33
Ok GrimeyDog has a Question... LOL... is the ABS in PCars working Well for any 1??? When i tried it with FW 94 the ABS was Sooo Faint i could Barely Feel it... I've went back to FW 65 because FW 94 didnt work well for Me... My wheel kept Loosing center During a Race always 1/8th to the Left but it would be Straight at the Menu or Car Tuning Screen... I Tested on PC and all was well its only PCars i Noticed Loss of Center with... It wasn't Horrible but it Drove me Crazy and with out the ABS and i Don't use a XB1 Hub i didn't Need the update So i went Back to FW 65 it works well for me... Ive been thinking to Re-Try FW 94 but if the ABS is Not Working well i will Stay on FW 65 until Next FW Release.

matungwa
22-06-2015, 15:45
would you advise me to get the fanatec then?

Bavarian Turbo
22-06-2015, 16:20
This is My Latest PDF... Its Pretty Much the Same as the Last 1 i just added some info that will Hopefully Explain and Help you to understand what some settings do. You will Have to Tweek to find your Wheel FFB Level and Your individual FFB Taste but this is a Blue Print of what to + or - and get you on your way... i think This is the Final PDF for PCars update v1.4
if you have any Questions ask... Post them or inbox me a Message me and i will try to answer.

I Love Sim Racing and im Glad i Can Help you All.... See you on the Track... LOL Feel Free to send me a Friend inv PSN, XBox & P.C Steam Tags are posted in My Signature

Thanx for the Support
GrimeyDog

Hi GrimeyDog,

i love your values, thank you very much.

But a question, had someone already tried the same values on the Xbox?
on the PS4 and the PC, I can set the same values, and my FFB is identical
on the Xbox, however, I have the same values far too strong and undynamic FFB with clipping

By reducing the force feedback in the game there will be better, but it feels still different.

I'm using the Fanatec V2 base with the Xbox Hub and the firmware 94

If the differences between the platforms in FFB otherwise still someone?

Fanatest
22-06-2015, 16:42
Hi GrimeyDog,

i love your values, thank you very much.

But a question, had someone already tried the same values on the Xbox?
on the PS4 and the PC, I can set the same values, and my FFB is identical
on the Xbox, however, I have the same values far too strong and undynamic FFB with clipping

By reducing the force feedback in the game there will be better, but it feels still different.

I'm using the Fanatec V2 base with the Xbox Hub and the firmware 94

If the differences between the platforms in FFB otherwise still someone?

As that Giant hunk of a man doesn't have the XBO version, I'll step in here and say that currently there does appear to be a difference in the "feel" of the FFB between both the XBO and PS4 (using the same hardware/settings etc.)

I reported this about 7 weeks ago, but not sure anyone else has really noticed it, as very few people are testing the game side by side on all platforms simultaneously like myself (I have all 3 up and running at the same time, on the same car/track and settings and just switch USB in the back of the base between versions for testing) :D

Interestingly, i actually prefer the XBO FFB in some cases, and the PS4 others :)

I have been running the Z4 (and a many other GT cars today) on PS4 and XBO on both the current and new test firmwares.

I use Grimeys settings as a base line (and tweak from there, on PS4) however in XBO they don't appear to translate like for like (for some reason)

For the moment (until the next patch) I have fallen back to my very simple setup (as it's easier for testing) of using the defaults on XBO and making very minor tweaks to the global menu (until the patches settle down) and it allows for very strong consistency when tasting.

But in short,
The default FFB on XBO / PS4 does not feel the same, even when tested on the same hardware/settings etc

The Grimey tweaked settings on PS4 when copied over to XBO do not translate to the same feeling, even when tested in the same hardware/settings etc.

I think someone (a WMD Member) mentioned previously (in one of these FFB threads) that there was a known Calculation error in the PS4 tyre force settings (or similar) and its due to be fixed in the up coming patch. So I assume that may contribute to the difference as well?

Nono
22-06-2015, 17:57
It's about limited availability/production capacity :)

Invitations are now finish. It's write "avaibility: In Stock" !!!

LordDRIFT
22-06-2015, 18:29
v2 on ebay for $900. lmao while crying.

LordDRIFT
22-06-2015, 18:31
Invitations are now finish. It's write "avaibility: In Stock" !!!

Still says by invitation on US site.

GrimeyDog
22-06-2015, 18:40
As that Giant hunk of a man doesn't have the XBO version, I'll step in here and say that currently there does appear to be a difference in the "feel" of the FFB between both the XBO and PS4 (using the same hardware/settings etc.)

I reported this about 7 weeks ago, but not sure anyone else has really noticed it, as very few people are testing the game side by side on all platforms simultaneously like myself (I have all 3 up and running at the same time, on the same car/track and settings and just switch USB in the back of the base between versions for testing) :D

Interestingly, i actually prefer the XBO FFB in some cases, and the PS4 others :)

I have been running the Z4 (and a many other GT cars today) on PS4 and XBO on both the current and new test firmwares.

I use Grimeys settings as a base line (and tweak from there, on PS4) however in XBO they don't appear to translate like for like (for some reason)

For the moment (until the next patch) I have fallen back to my very simple setup (as it's easier for testing) of using the defaults on XBO and making very minor tweaks to the global menu (until the patches settle down) and it allows for very strong consistency when tasting.

But in short,
The default FFB on XBO / PS4 does not feel the same, even when tested on the same hardware/settings etc

The Grimey tweaked settings on PS4 when copied over to XBO do not translate to the same feeling, even when tested in the same hardware/settings etc.

I think someone (a WMD Member) mentioned previously (in one of these FFB threads) that there was a known Calculation error in the PS4 tyre force settings (or similar) and its due to be fixed in the up coming patch. So I assume that may contribute to the difference as well?



GrimeyDog Agrees 100%

aslo i believe MS Still uses a Version of their XID for Wheels and Controlers on XB1 and Sony is Still using HID for PS4 and that can make or be the Difference in How FFB Translates between the two Systems... So the Question would be which Version is Closer to the PC version PS4 or XB1?

Nono
22-06-2015, 18:51
Still says by invitation on US site.

Arghh ! Sorry, I'm from Europe. I think it will be de same for you soon ;o)

Fanatest
22-06-2015, 19:06
GrimeyDog Agrees 100%

aslo i believe MS Still uses a Version of their XID for Wheels and Controlers on XB1 and Sony is Still using HID for PS4 and that can make or be the Difference in How FFB Translates between the two Systems... So the Question would be which Version is Closer to the PC version PS4 or XB1?

Hmmm...
Some cars feel good in PS4, but others feel not so good (in terms of FFB)
Some cars feel good in XBO, but others feel not so good (in terms of FFB)

All cars feel good on PC :D

The good cars on XBO feel just like the PC using the same hardware/settings
The good cars on PS4 feel just like the PC using the same hardware/settings

The only difference Is, the good cars in XBO aren't the same "cars" as the good cars on PS4 and vice versa :D

If they took the best of both, merged them, we'd have a winner :D

GrimeyDog
22-06-2015, 20:35
Hhhhmmm!!! What is this News that Pcars2 has been All Ready Announced??? its posted on inside sim racing:mad:

PCars 1 is Not Even Done Yet!!! Still Needs alot of work!!!

Well this is Good and bad....The Good They have to Fix Pcars because if they don't finish PCars ... every 1 will flash back to what happened with NFS and now PCars Too....the Pcars fan Base will feel Burned and PCars 2 wont make a red dime... That's the Good they have to finish this. i threw my last $$$ away buying Forza Games but Never again will i waste $$$ buying a Game from a developer that Cant and wont Deliver a Complete Quality game.

The Bad How much is that going to slow down the progress of getting the Bugs outta Pcars???

LordDRIFT
22-06-2015, 20:59
Hhhhmmm!!! What is this News that Pcars2 has been All Ready Announced??? its posted on inside sim racing:mad:

PCars 1 is Not Even Done Yet!!! Still Needs alot of work!!!

Its in the announcements section of this forum.

Titzon Toast
22-06-2015, 20:59
Hhhhmmm!!! What is this News that Pcars2 has been All Ready Announced??? its posted on inside sim racing:mad:

PCars 1 is Not Even Done Yet!!! Still Needs alot of work!!!

It's posted at the top of the page on my phone anyway.
I'm going to wait until I've finally gotten to play PC1 before I think about buying number 2.

geb69
22-06-2015, 21:56
Another day, another try for better FFB Settings - today based on this guide made by someone for the Fanatec GT3 RS Wheel:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?29907-Force-Feedback-Guide-for-Project-CARS&p=969970&viewfull=1#post969970

I started with reset wheel settings and reset car settings.

Settings on my Fanatec GT3 RS V2:

Wheel Settings:
SEN off (means full scale)
FFB 100
SHO 100 (I think this is useless)
DRI 004 (see below)
ABS 80 (for CSP V1 break paddle shakes)
LIN 000
DEA 000
SPR off
DPR off

Since step 2 of this guide (remove drag) is not possible on ps4 (because of wrong gui adjustments or the 5% bug - or whatever) I set DRI to 4 to get a smooth easy-turning wheel in the menu! Do not adjust the wheel movement settings as this does not work! It is even not possible to turn off all tire forces for this adjustment on PS4. I was left with a binary up and down shake when I tried this. Something is wrong here and it is horrible to play with this on PS4 because of loading times.

Anyway set this in the FFB settings for the wheel:
Tire Force to 25 (not to 100 as in the guide - 1.4 tire force bug)
Deadzone Removal Range to 0.1 (not to 0.01 as in the guide - 10% change since guide?)
Deadzone Remove Falloff to 0.05 (not to 0.005 as in the guide - 10% change since guide?)
Relative Adjust Gain to 0.70 (as in guide)
Relative Adjust Bleed to 0.20 (as in guide)
Relative Adjust Clamp to 0.85 (as in guide)
Scoop Knee to 0.7 (as default and in guide)
Scoop Reduction to 0.15 (as default and in guide)

then setup the wheel buttons to your like, calibrate wheel and pedals and save wheel settings with circle.
then go to practice on Brands Hatch and take the Formula B car (as in guide) with new settings and set:

FY to 0 (as in guide)
Sop Scale to 26 (same as master scale)
SoP Differential Scale to 100 (as in guide)
SoP Damping to 10 (as in guide)

This gives some very nice Fanatec Wheel settings with strong FFB and without clipping!

:-)

Jerem33FR
22-06-2015, 22:09
Something that happens 2 or 3 time : got the FFB completely off when starting a session, career or online.

Have to completely reboot the game to retrieve it.

Is it a know issue on Fanatec wheels or general wheels ?

Nono
22-06-2015, 22:44
Something that happens 2 or 3 time : got the FFB completely off when starting a session, career or online.

Have to completely reboot the game to retrieve it.

Is it a know issue on Fanatec wheels or general wheels ?

Yes, exactly the same for me (CSR-E). I think this issue known.

GrimeyDog
22-06-2015, 23:07
im thinking about Next weekend that i will hook up my GT2 and CSR Elite wheel and see what settings i can tweek outta it...All in favor say aye.... If i get enough likes i will do it for sure... i wanna know how many people would be interested for me to do so... The v2 tweek is Done and feels good on every car... Next project is ???

Marlo
22-06-2015, 23:10
im thinking about Next weekend to will hook up my GT2 and CSR Elite wheel and see what settings i can tweek outta it...All in favor say aye.... If i get enough likes i will do it for sure... i wanna know how many people would be interested i for me to do so... The v2 tweek is Done and feels good on every car... Next project is ???


aye!

GrimeyDog
22-06-2015, 23:19
PCars Random Fact...Did you know that when you set Assist to Real it turns on TCS, ABS and Stability if the car has it... Don't believe me Try and Squeal outta a corner with the Assist set to Real and watch your Telemetry Screen...Just another random Pcars fact.... I drive with all Assist OFF to me the Assist Never Feel right and they stop the car from turning in how i like... yup i like to throttle steer...and the Braking with ABS to me is Horrible...that's with any racing game not just Pcars.

Admire123
23-06-2015, 02:55
im thinking about Next weekend that i will hook up my GT2 and CSR Elite wheel and see what settings i can tweek outta it...All in favor say aye.... If i get enough likes i will do it for sure... i wanna know how many people would be interested for me to do so... The v2 tweek is Done and feels good on every car... Next project is ???



Thanks, i just got my new GT2 wheel last week, really looking for your great works!!:acne:

Linx
23-06-2015, 03:10
im thinking about Next weekend that i will hook up my GT2 and CSR Elite wheel and see what settings i can tweek outta it...All in favor say aye.... If i get enough likes i will do it for sure... i wanna know how many people would be interested for me to do so... The v2 tweek is Done and feels good on every car... Next project is ???
I vote yes. And if you ever decide to sell that Elite...... I call dibs

geb69
23-06-2015, 06:11
PCars Random Fact...Did you know that when you set Assist to Real it turns on TCS, ABS and Stability if the car has it... Don't believe me Try and Squeal outta a corner with the Assist set to Real and watch your Telemetry Screen...Just another random Pcars fact.... I drive with all Assist OFF to me the Assist Never Feel right and they stop the car from turning in how i like... yup i like to throttle steer...and the Braking with ABS to me is Horrible...that's with any racing game not just Pcars.

Thanks for this info!

I wondered why the 72 lotus felt so good yesterday and the Focus RS was nearly undriveable because of very little feedback and slow reactions.
I'm not sure if that option is on real in my setup but I would have set it to real before your post because I thought it means "you can only enable real assists".
Next time I give it a try with OFF in the Focus RS! :-)

Update: even with all assists off the Focus RS has way to soft FFB for fast driving. Maybe something is wrong with that particular car.
Because the formula race cars I tried have very good ffb now (see my last posts).
With the Formula A (untuned) I reached 6:28 yesterday at my second try on the nurb which was my very best nurb time ever and I was always ON the road with a big smile. (and yes I know others go for 5:11 :-) )

Luxman_
23-06-2015, 09:07
Fanatec CSW V2 issues

. Sometimes the Wheel loses the ffb when I enter in random circuit. (Re enter and its solve the problem)

. Every time I power off the Wheel and power on in game, it gives a error, and jump por PS4 menu.

. Center issue in game, sometimes you have to re-center the Wheel.

. For too or three times already happened to me the wheel turn totaly for right into the menu like the T500 error before update 1.4

. Fanatec CSS 1.5 Shifter, if you reset the settings the Shifter works with the padels, but with a issue, the shifter is reversed with the gears inverted just in the Shifter ( increase gear is forward, decrease is backward. if you try to set up the shifter, lose operation of work simultaneously( padles with Shifter), leaving only or with padles or the shifter one at the time :(

Does anyone have these problems or any of them?

James Boulton
23-06-2015, 09:09
As that Giant hunk of a man doesn't have the XBO version, I'll step in here and say that currently there does appear to be a difference in the "feel" of the FFB between both the XBO and PS4 (using the same hardware/settings etc.)

Yes, there will be. The PS4 and XBO use a completely different setup for force feedback. The PS4 and PC however should be more or less identical with the same settings.

And this will not be changing, it's just a feature of how Microsoft has implemented the force feedback on XBO wheels compared to how its being handled through DirectX or other bespoke interfaces.

Fanatest
23-06-2015, 10:18
Yes, there will be. The PS4 and XBO use a completely different setup for force feedback. The PS4 and PC however should be more or less identical with the same settings.

And this will not be changing, it's just a feature of how Microsoft has implemented the force feedback on XBO wheels compared to how its being handled through DirectX or other bespoke interfaces.

Hey :)

Yea, many of us (like myself) are aware of the differences between the platforms, but thanks for the clarification.

I was responding to the "WMD Member" who specifically asked why Grimeys settings did not translate to the XBO "as is".

He was unaware if/why there were any differences between platforms FFB (I think the general population expect there not to be) and I explained that there were clear differences in the FFB between platforms as grimey was unable to confirm this (he uses PC/PS4) ;)

Of course differences in protocol will yield different results (and the current bug in the tyre force settings on PS4 is also not helping)

Currently, no platforms feel the same (when tested side by side) but hopefully they will soon, as future updates and improvements keep coming.

I believe some of the confusion may has arisen from previous statements made here (by SMS) advising that they believed they were much closer to having "parity" between "FFB" on "all platforms" (I'll find the post) when in fact at the moment, as you say, that's not the case (and as you say, likely never will be) but I think it confused a few people/wmd members (hence why so many people are trying to use Jack Spades or Grimeys settings on XBO with not so great results)

Many users are still under the impression that a good FFB car setup for PCars, will translate on to any platform (like Jack Spades etc) however this is not the case (as we know) they will NOT translate correctly and can actually make the game much worse.

Each platform will require its own "Jack Spade" ;)

Currently we have Grimey doing PS4,
Jack Spade doing PC
and XBO is currently recruiting :)

Some users/wmd members are not aware of the disparity, so was just clearing it up ;)

Here's the quote

To all of you asking about the affects the FFB changes will have on your custom profiles - Truth is, there's no way to avoid it affecting the changes you have made, short of doing nothing (which we don't consider as an option :) ). By far the biggest majority of players will never fiddle with the FFB settings in game, and we have to try and improve the experience for them as well. What we suggest is, install the patch and test the FFB first without resetting your configurations. You may just be happy with how it feels straight up, and save yourself the trouble of redoing it all.

Someone also keeps asking about the Fanatec GT3 being 'improved' instead of 'fixed'. It would be hard to improve it if it wasn't fixed, so I thought it would be redundant to state it was fixed AND improved (which sounds like some cheap product marketing campaign). Just for you though - "Fixed several older Fanatec wheel problems, such as the GT2, GT3, and CSR, and improved their default implementation" :)

Again, ALL supported wheels (yes, that includes the Thrustmaster TX) on ALL platforms are improved, and we think that we are very close to parity across all platforms (which is very difficult to achieve because of how differently the platforms communicate with the hardware).

We're not done yet though. As you all report new issues (in a structured and unemotional way ;) ), we will continue to address these as far as possible and release fixes in future patches.

Fanatest
23-06-2015, 10:37
Fanatec CSW V2 issues

. Sometimes the Wheel loses the ffb when I enter in random circuit. (Re enter and its solve the problem)

. Every time I power off the Wheel and power on in game, it gives a error, and jump por PS4 menu.

. Center issue in game, sometimes you have to re-center the Wheel.

. For too or three times already happened to me the wheel turn totaly for right into the menu like the T500 error before update 1.4

. Fanatec CSS 1.5 Shifter, if you reset the settings the Shifter works with the padels, but with a issue, the shifter is reversed with the gears inverted just in the Shifter ( increase gear is forward, decrease is backward. if you try to set up the shifter, lose operation of work simultaneously( padles with Shifter), leaving only or with padles or the shifter one at the time :(

Does anyone have these problems or any of them?

Hi,

I reported the shifter issue when patch 1.4 dropped (I'll find the report) and was advised this was a new feature I think... (It's in this thread posted a few days/weeks ago)

It means that a shifter must be calibrated each and every time you change car, but you must also know the exact transmission of the car before calibrating, and by doing so you lose your paddle shifters and when you decide to jump into another car you must exit the game, enter the menu and recalibrate the paddles losing SQ support....

I have not used my SQ since patch 1.4 as this feature is not convenient or practical for me.

The loss of FFB in game is a known issue, and I believe is being looked Into by SMS as it happens on all wheels.

The blue screen crash is a known issue and SMS have (or are) addressing this in the next patch I believe.

Off centre calibration is also reported by some users (Grimey included) I myself have experienced this recently, however I can only reproduce this on PCars.
I am currently testing new and old firmware on all 3 platforms (and many games) to pin down the exact cause of this issue as we speak.

Hope that helps :)

Bavarian Turbo
23-06-2015, 11:03
Hey :)

Yea, many of us (like myself) are aware of the differences between the platforms, but thanks for the clarification.

I was responding to the "WMD Member" who specifically asked why Grimeys settings did not translate to the XBO "as is".

He was unaware if/why there were any differences between platforms FFB (I think the general population expect there not to be) and I explained that there were clear differences in the FFB between platforms as grimey was unable to confirm this (he uses PC/PS4) ;)

Of course differences in protocol will yield different results (and the current bug in the tyre force settings on PS4 is also not helping)

Currently, no platforms feel the same (when tested side by side) but hopefully they will soon, as future updates and improvements keep coming.

I believe some of the confusion may has arisen from previous statements made here (by SMS) advising that they believed they were much closer to having "parity" between "FFB" on "all platforms" (I'll find the post) when in fact at the moment, as you say, that's not the case (and as you say, likely never will be) but I think it confused a few people/wmd members (hence why so many people are trying to use Jack Spades or Grimeys settings on XBO with not so great results)

Many users are still under the impression that a good FFB car setup for PCars, will translate on to any platform (like Jack Spades etc) however this is not the case (as we know) they will NOT translate correctly and can actually make the game much worse.

Each platform will require its own "Jack Spade" ;)

Currently we have Grimey doing PS4,
Jack Spade doing PC
and XBO is currently recruiting :)

Some users/wmd members are not aware of the disparity, so was just clearing it up ;)

Here's the quote

I was the user who asked. Thanks for the clarification.

Now I hope that we find soon a GrimeyDog or Jack Sapde for Xbox One ;)

Luxman_
23-06-2015, 11:33
Hi,

I reported the shifter issue when patch 1.4 dropped (I'll find the report) and was advised this was a new feature I think... (It's in this thread posted a few days/weeks ago)

It means that a shifter must be calibrated each and every time you change car, but you must also know the exact transmission of the car before calibrating, and by doing so you lose your paddle shifters and when you decide to jump into another car you must exit the game, enter the menu and recalibrate the paddles losing SQ support....

I have not used my SQ since patch 1.4 as this feature is not convenient or practical for me.

The loss of FFB in game is a known issue, and I believe is being looked Into by SMS as it happens on all wheels.

The blue screen crash is a known issue and SMS have (or are) addressing this in the next patch I believe.

Off centre calibration is also reported by some users (Grimey included) I myself have experienced this recently, however I can only reproduce this on PCars.
I am currently testing new and old firmware on all 3 platforms (and many games) to pin down the exact cause of this issue as we speak.

Hope that helps :)


Thanks Fanatest.

Ok hope next update solve this issues :)

GrimeyDog
23-06-2015, 13:28
I think that the settings should work on XB1 also its just a Numbers Game once you figure out what all the settings do as Long as the Same Settings control the same function across all 3 platforms... IE: Lateral = Lateral on all 3 .....EX: PS4 & PC use HID so lets say 10 = 10 .... XB1 uses XID so 10 may = 15... XID may be More Sensitive than HID or Vise Versa but FFB is FFB you just have to Sit and Tweek once you have a Formula... its just a Numbers Game trying to get them to line up... Tweek Tweek Tweek!!! Its in there you just gotta Tweek it out.

Thats what my FFB PDF is its a General Guide to show you where to + or - to bring out the Car Feel... IE Lateral is Left to Right FFB and Vertical is Curb Road Bump feel....You have to take time Read the PDF and Tweek.

I Had forgotten how much i Love to tweek... LOL... Good thing that PCars is the ONLY Next Gen Racer out because i May Not have Tweeked it so Much if i had another option... But this is Good i Re-Discovered My Love for Tweeking..... LOL... I used to have Books Full of Forza Tweeks and Settings... LOL

I think this Tweek your Own FFB is a Good Idea as Long as they Have a Good General Global FFB setting for those that Dont want to Tweek and Make the FFB Tweeking Section a advanced Menu option. FFB settings are very much prefference based there is No 1General FFB setting that will be Right for All... So this Tweek your own Feel is the option of the Future. jmo

Cabriojoschy
23-06-2015, 14:14
Hi,

I reported the shifter issue when patch 1.4 dropped (I'll find the report) and was advised this was a new feature I think... (It's in this thread posted a few days/weeks ago)

It means that a shifter must be calibrated each and every time you change car, but you must also know the exact transmission of the car before calibrating, and by doing so you lose your paddle shifters and when you decide to jump into another car you must exit the game, enter the menu and recalibrate the paddles losing SQ support....

I have not used my SQ since patch 1.4 as this feature is not convenient or practical for me.

They can´t be serious that the SQ shifter issue is a feature. The handbrake isn´t working as either even when it was in the change log for the patch.

GrimeyDog
23-06-2015, 15:25
Is the ABS working Good for any 1??? I could Barely feel it so i went back to FW 65.... I May try FW 94 again if its confirmed that the ABS is working... I mighta just been Frustrated and gave up on FW 94 too soon...Maybe...

Fanatest
23-06-2015, 15:33
Is the ABS working Good for any 1??? I could Barely feel it so i went back to FW 65.... I May try FW 94 again if its confirmed that the ABS is working... I mighta just been Frustrated and gave up on FW 94 too soon...Maybe...

Hey :)

On PS4 the v2 breaking vibration is currently not functioning as expected. It functions during severe lock ups and crashes randomly, but not when breaking normally (like the XBO/PC would react) it should be resolved soon though ;)

GrimeyDog
23-06-2015, 15:42
Thanx... Did you test the pure settings yet???

Freak66
23-06-2015, 17:27
I've spent hours tonight trying all sorts of different settings and configurations, both in game and on my wheel, but I just can't find a set up that works for me on my Turbo-S.
I can't feel anything at all from the rear end of any cars. When the rear let's go I don't find out until the car has started to swap ends, and by then it's too late!
It feels so weird being so disconnected, it's just odd. I've got the Jack Spades ffb app and I've dialed in all of his different recommended settings but to no avail.
I've been driving for years irl and I've driven the stones out of every type of vehicle imaginable and never experienced a sensation like this before. Never in a game for that matter either and I've had a wheel for years now too.
I'm at a loss for what to do now if I'm honest.

Exactly the same for me on my Turbo S (PS4).
Best settings for me are the ones from GrimeyDog (Thanks again), but far away from satisfying.

I have another issue: after loading a track and as soon as the first screen in the pits appears (Single- and Multiplayer) the wheel turns right with full power.
it stops doing that in the same moment I press X to exit pits.
Same when the race starts until lights go to green.
I have to remember that every time and hold the wheel, otherwise it would destroy the wheel sooner or later.
Titzon Toast, the same for you on your Turbo S?

zennmeister
23-06-2015, 18:26
I have another issue: after loading a track and as soon as the first screen in the pits appears (Single- and Multiplayer) the wheel turns right with full power.
it stops doing that in the same moment I press X to exit pits.
Same when the race starts until lights go to green.
I have to remember that every time and hold the wheel, otherwise it would destroy the wheel sooner or later.
Titzon Toast, the same for you on your Turbo S?

Hmm, I thought this phenomenon was only reserved for thrustmaster users?
It's disheartening to hear it happening on a Fanatec wheel too because I'll be in the club soon.

GrimeyDog
23-06-2015, 19:34
Exactly the same for me on my Turbo S (PS4).
Best settings for me are the ones from GrimeyDog (Thanks again), but far away from satisfying.

I have another issue: after loading a track and as soon as the first screen in the pits appears (Single- and Multiplayer) the wheel turns right with full power.
it stops doing that in the same moment I press X to exit pits.
Same when the race starts until lights go to green.
I have to remember that every time and hold the wheel, otherwise it would destroy the wheel sooner or later.
Titzon Toast, the same for you on your Turbo S?

I will be Hooking up my Fanatec GT2 wheel this weekend some time and Tweeking Pcars to see if i can get a Good result... I have a good idea where to start...Try turning Down the "Relative adjust Clamp" to 85 and see if you still get clipping... While the target range for FFB is 100% the FFB often will go over what you have your Max FFB set to because of FFB spikes under heavy turning or Rumble strips... The Relative adjust clamp will Reduce FFB once 85% or what ever you set it to is reached to Help avoid FFB Clipping... Some wheels can take more FFB input than others...The wheel is only as strong as it is so it is important that you dont over power your wheel with excessive FFB demands... I know if i set my GT2 wheel to the level that my V2 is at it will break... the V2 is alotta metal and while the GT2 is a Great wheel there is alot of plastic and it wont take the same FFB abuse!!! it is important to keep this in mind when setting FFB expectations. I will do my best to tweek out the best feel that i can while keeping the FFB to a Level that will avoid damage/Clipping to the wheels.

LordDRIFT
23-06-2015, 19:43
Hmm, I thought this phenomenon was only reserved for thrustmaster users?
It's disheartening to hear it happening on a Fanatec wheel too because I'll be in the club soon.

Are any wheels operating flawlessly on the PS4?

Fanatest
23-06-2015, 19:55
Thanx... Did you test the pure settings yet???

Sure did! running well and very detailed :)

My only issue at the moment with the PS4 FFB is lack of power.
For example the XBO version it's the default "out of the box" setups including leaving the in game FFB at 50 is "WOW" powerful on the V2 it feels incredible! detailed, powerful, absolutely amazing!

PS4 on FFB defaults is ... eh... Let's move on, but let's say, I don't recommend that.
So maxed to 100 ... Meh... That feels like a butterfly sneezed in my general direction now and again.

Your tweaks absolutely improve it, no question. But the default disparity is mind blowing. The XBO absolutely crucifies the PS4 in 3 areas:

Clarity,
Colour palette,
FFB (default)

We need more power on PS4 (like the XBO) then we can add your settings on top and it should be perfect :)

GrimeyDog
23-06-2015, 20:00
I was the user who asked. Thanks for the clarification.

Now I hope that we find soon a GrimeyDog or Jack Sapde for Xbox One ;)

I will Do XB1 also if Thomas/Fanatec send me a Hub and Rim:barbershop_quartet_
I have a TX 458 and T500 pedals i should be able to translate that into a Fanatec setting....Maybe...is any 1 using a TX wheel with PCars on XB1??? arethey having the same wheel problems with the TX??? ive been over here i haven't even checked the XB1 thread about PCars....Hhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Bavarian Turbo
23-06-2015, 21:03
Sure did! running well and very detailed :)

My only issue at the moment with the PS4 FFB is lack of power.
For example the XBO version it's the default "out of the box" setups including leaving the in game FFB at 50 is "WOW" powerful on the V2 it feels incredible! detailed, powerful, absolutely amazing!

PS4 on FFB defaults is ... eh... Let's move on, but let's say, I don't recommend that.
So maxed to 100 ... Meh... That feels like a butterfly sneezed in my general direction now and again.

Your tweaks absolutely improve it, no question. But the default disparity is mind blowing. The XBO absolutely crucifies the PS4 in 3 areas:

Clarity,
Colour palette,
FFB (default)

We need more power on PS4 (like the XBO) then we can add your settings on top and it should be perfect :)


let you all values to default in the xbox version?

here the default settings
208882208883

i set
Relative Adjuste gain to 1,10
Relative Adjuste Bleed to 0,10
Relative Adjuste Clamp to 0,95
Scoope Knee to 0,70
Scoope Reduction to 0,15

then when i am testing GrimeyDogs values for the Car-Setup i set FFB in Game to 25 and tire force to 50. With the Formula C at Oultan Park it feels very good for me.

on the v2 Base is have FFB at 80

it would be nice to know your exact values

GrimeyDog
23-06-2015, 21:19
Sure did! running well and very detailed :)

My only issue at the moment with the PS4 FFB is lack of power.
For example the XBO version it's the default "out of the box" setups including leaving the in game FFB at 50 is "WOW" powerful on the V2 it feels incredible! detailed, powerful, absolutely amazing!

PS4 on FFB defaults is ... eh... Let's move on, but let's say, I don't recommend that.
So maxed to 100 ... Meh... That feels like a butterfly sneezed in my general direction now and again.

Your tweaks absolutely improve it, no question. But the default disparity is mind blowing. The XBO absolutely crucifies the PS4 in 3 areas:

Clarity,
Colour palette,
FFB (default)

We need more power on PS4 (like the XBO) then we can add your settings on top and it should be perfect :)


Hmmm... With the Tweek you can Run the V2 at Global 100% But i don't like Fighting the wheel...I just sent you a Tweek Change list Check it out and I'm pretty Sure the V2 wont have Clipping issues... Be Careful and watch for over Heating... I've been using a Infrared thermometer to monitor the V2 motor temp and it Runs between 120°F and 125°F.... I just emailed Fanatec and asked them How Hot is Too Hot for the wheel to operate Normally...I'm waiting for a reply.

Edit: Running `100% Global FFB Now No Clipping At All...I made some small adjustments and WOW!!! PDF 1.4 v#FDO8 soon... LOL(FD=final Draft) it is now complete:yes:

Titzon Toast
23-06-2015, 21:46
Exactly the same for me on my Turbo S (PS4).
Best settings for me are the ones from GrimeyDog (Thanks again), but far away from satisfying.

I have another issue: after loading a track and as soon as the first screen in the pits appears (Single- and Multiplayer) the wheel turns right with full power.
it stops doing that in the same moment I press X to exit pits.
Same when the race starts until lights go to green.
I have to remember that every time and hold the wheel, otherwise it would destroy the wheel sooner or later.
Titzon Toast, the same for you on your Turbo S?

It's the the exact same as I leave the pits alright, the wheel snatches violently when control is given back to me.
I haven't played the game since Saturday night when I posted what I was experiencing. Hopefully when GrimeyDog fires up his old GT2 we'll another opinion on this, we might even get some good settings!
Something has to be lined up for all of us wheel users in the next patch, things don't seem quite right to me.
The Thrustmaster users have their centre spring issue too.

lethaLEEkill
24-06-2015, 01:03
Exactly the same for me on my Turbo S (PS4).
Best settings for me are the ones from GrimeyDog (Thanks again), but far away from satisfying.

I have another issue: after loading a track and as soon as the first screen in the pits appears (Single- and Multiplayer) the wheel turns right with full power.
it stops doing that in the same moment I press X to exit pits.
Same when the race starts until lights go to green.
I have to remember that every time and hold the wheel, otherwise it would destroy the wheel sooner or later.
Titzon Toast, the same for you on your Turbo S?

Yes it will eventually break the stops on your wheel as it did mine, be careful! Fanatec support said it has to be forced to break it or wheel defective. I did not force my wheel to break(wheel was ripped from my hands), and i've had my wheel since 2011, so i dought it was defective.

Sebyrem
24-06-2015, 04:11
Yeah go for it ! I've spent si many time to get mine cool thought and realistic but with poor results for instance

Erwin Berkers
24-06-2015, 05:45
...
I have another issue: after loading a track and as soon as the first screen in the pits appears (Single- and Multiplayer) the wheel turns right with full power.
it stops doing that in the same moment I press X to exit pits.
Same when the race starts until lights go to green.
I have to remember that every time and hold the wheel, otherwise it would destroy the wheel sooner or later.
Titzon Toast, the same for you on your Turbo S?

Since this is my first post: thank you all for a good discussion on Fanatec wheels, this thread contains some good information!

In answering to your issue, I haven't experienced my Turbo-S wheel pulling to the right after loading the track with the first screen in the pits. Does this happen with a specific car/track combination or is this always the case?

Fong74
24-06-2015, 10:25
Edit: Running `100% Global FFB Now No Clipping At All...I made some small adjustments and WOW!!! PDF 1.4 v#FDO8 soon... LOL(FD=final Draft) it is now complete:yes:

Looking forward to that as Im curious how your tweeks do feel like.

Im running a quite heavy wheel and was looking out for clipping as discussed some days back. And there is almost none on the PS4 with the V2 I can say. At least what the graph indicates matches with what I feel. We ran a 2h LMP2 online race in Le Mans last Sunday and the FFb was a blast all over the race. I could feel every bump and road detail when sweeping out of the corners (when the FFb graph goes up/down as the wheel is under load). I felt the car loosing grip when pushing too hard or touching a curb which lifted it. So, yes, the V2 does exactly what I bought it for: it has a lot of power but remains always very precise. With pCars supporting it the way it does now, it is dream come true for me and many PS4 racers I know.

So overall I am very happy with the FFb after v1.4 on a V2 (and some few, personal tweaks I posted here) atm. Same goes for my fellow pilots who run the same Fanatec HW on PS4s.

Nevertheless, things can surely get better or maybe different, or maybe both. So Ill try out Grimeys 100% FFB tweak version once it is out for sure and report back.

Appreciate your efforts there :cool:

Zeke Bewlay
24-06-2015, 10:53
I really wish I'd read this thread before I bought my GT3 wheel for pCars on PS4. Anyway my problem is very basic. When I start the GT3 V2 wheel in pCars it simply more a less hangs. Controller won't work or wheel. When I turn off wheel problem goes away. Perhaps there is a description of how to get these things to play together here but there are now so many posts I can't wade through all of them.
Anyway if someone has a solution I'd be very grateful. needless to say pretty disappointed as I bought PS4 and wheel specifically for pCars.
(Btw I don't know what firmware I have. I don't have a PC as I'm a Mac person)

Fanatest
24-06-2015, 11:10
I really wish I'd read this thread before I bought my GT3 wheel for pCars on PS4. Anyway my problem is very basic. When I start the GT3 V2 wheel in pCars it simply more a less hangs. Controller won't work or wheel. When I turn off wheel problem goes away. Perhaps there is a description of how to get these things to play together here but there are now so many posts I can't wade through all of them.
Anyway if someone has a solution I'd be very grateful. needless to say pretty disappointed as I bought PS4 and wheel specifically for pCars.
(Btw I don't know what firmware I have. I don't have a PC as I'm a Mac person)

Hi,

To check firmware version, turn on the wheel and the display will show a number. This number is the firmware version you are currently using ;)

New firmware are available here:
http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/racing-wheels/porsche-911-gt3-rs-v2-wheel-eu.html

To connect to PS4 I would ensure you have all the latest updates, patches and firmware, then:
Turn on the PS4
Use the DS4 to start the game
When the game gets to the "press X to start" screen plug in your wheel
Now turn your wheel on and let it calibrate
Now press "X" on the wheel

And you should be good to go ;)

Any problems let me know :)

Zeke Bewlay
24-06-2015, 11:43
Thanks fanatest. Since I posted I did some research and now find that my firmware is 681. (Had to do a strange ritual to find it, not as simple as just turning it on, that gave 888) I think I need 756 right? I'll see if I can get a mate with a PC to help me update firmware, I've heard it's not straightforward and needs old versions of windows

Fong74
24-06-2015, 11:53
To connect to PS4 I would ensure you have all the latest updates, patches and firmware, then:
Turn on the PS4
Use the DS4 to start the game
When the game gets to the "press X to start" screen plug in your wheel
Now turn your wheel on and let it calibrate
Now press "X" on the wheel

And you should be good to go ;)

Any problems let me know :)

This goes for V1/2 also?

My experience is that with the V2 not connected and turned on before the game is started, the number of occasional issues like disappearing FFb etc seems to be rising... Hard to reproduce this or give more details. Its just the experience of guys running a V1/2 that I know.

Fanatest
24-06-2015, 12:16
This goes for V1/2 also?

My experience is that with the V2 not connected and turned on before the game is started, the number of occasional issues like disappearing FFb etc seems to be rising... Hard to reproduce this or give more details. Its just the experience of guys running a V1/2 that I know.

Hi,

There's no problem "plugging it in" before you get to the start screen, it's not written in stone just a guide ;)

By having this template (that we know works) gives us a simple, baseline known to start troubleshooting from :)

If you have a way that works for your taste, there is no problem with us :)

For the record I do the following on a V2
Connect V2 USB to PS4
Power on PS4 with DS4
Launch game with DS4
Power on base at X screen
Let wheel calibrate
Enter game by pressing X on the wheel

I use this every time to ensure consistency for test purposes (less variables) but whatever works for you is fine ;)


Thanks fanatest. Since I posted I did some research and now find that my firmware is 681. (Had to do a strange ritual to find it, not as simple as just turning it on, that gave 888) I think I need 756 right? I'll see if I can get a mate with a PC to help me update firmware, I've heard it's not straightforward and needs old versions of windows

Any (full) Windows PC/Laptop/Tablet etc should be fine, the upgrade is also a relatively simple process ;)

I do my firmware updates on a 10" Windows 8.1 Tablet (connected via USB) which actually sits on my rig (in a cradle) acting as a second screen etc ;)

Very simple and means I can upgrade, test and roll back firmware etc without getting up/out the rig when testing on console etc ;)

Edit;
You can buy a little £50 Windows 8.1 tablet that you could use to flash your firmware, watch TV on, stream music on, use MSOffice on, take photos with etc.

It's a full Windows 8.1 PC technically, and you can therefore attach your wheel bass to it (via. USB micro to USB cable) and/or even connect it the side of your base/rig via a cradle etc

Here:
http://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/linx-8-refurbished-tablet-intel-atom-1gb-ram-32gb-with-camera-wlan-bt-windows-8-2231576

Zeke Bewlay
24-06-2015, 12:39
So I find that with firmware 681 the game actually unfreeze if it gets input from the wheel like turning wheel or pressing pedals. Not really usable. So can someone please confirm that this problem goes away if I update to firmware 756?
Cheers



Hi,

To check firmware version, turn on the wheel and the display will show a number. This number is the firmware version you are currently using ;)

New firmware are available here:
http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/racing-wheels/porsche-911-gt3-rs-v2-wheel-eu.html

To connect to PS4 I would ensure you have all the latest updates, patches and firmware, then:
Turn on the PS4
Use the DS4 to start the game
When the game gets to the "press X to start" screen plug in your wheel
Now turn your wheel on and let it calibrate
Now press "X" on the wheel

And you should be good to go ;)

Any problems let me know :)

Fanatest
24-06-2015, 12:49
So I find that with firmware 681 the game actually unfreeze if it gets input from the wheel like turning wheel or pressing pedals. Not really usable. So can someone please confirm that this problem goes away if I update to firmware 756?
Cheers

It would definitely be a good place to start ;)

Ideally the wheel wants to be ran in pc mode, using firmware 756 using the latest version of PCars.

Hope that helps,
Any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

Erwin Berkers
24-06-2015, 12:53
Dear Zeke,

I have the Turbo-S which is an older Fanatec wheel, and experienced similar behaviour with the old firmware for my wheel, meaning that the game only updated the display while moving the wheel. There was also absence of force feedback.

Since I am a Mac user I borrowed a PC with Vista (any version should work I guess, but older seem to be better in this case), disabled the virus checker (important), and updated the firmware. Be sure to read all the instructions before starting this process, and don't hesitate asking here or with Fanatec if something is unclear.

After the update my wheel works as advertised, a smooth experience. I am happy with Fanatec, support has always been good, and they allow running my old wheel on the new PS4. Amazing!

GrimeyDog
24-06-2015, 14:49
Looking forward to that as Im curious how your tweeks do feel like.

Im running a quite heavy wheel and was looking out for clipping as discussed some days back. And there is almost none on the PS4 with the V2 I can say. At least what the graph indicates matches with what I feel. We ran a 2h LMP2 online race in Le Mans last Sunday and the FFb was a blast all over the race. I could feel every bump and road detail when sweeping out of the corners (when the FFb graph goes up/down as the wheel is under load). I felt the car loosing grip when pushing too hard or touching a curb which lifted it. So, yes, the V2 does exactly what I bought it for: it has a lot of power but remains always very precise. With pCars supporting it the way it does now, it is dream come true for me and many PS4 racers I know.

So overall I am very happy with the FFb after v1.4 on a V2 (and some few, personal tweaks I posted here) atm. Same goes for my fellow pilots who run the same Fanatec HW on PS4s.

Nevertheless, things can surely get better or maybe different, or maybe both. So Ill try out Grimeys 100% FFB tweak version once it is out for sure and report back.

Appreciate your efforts there :cool:

With My Current Tweek PDF you can Run 100% Global FFB & use i use 85 for Tire Force. There are soo many Variables to play with that give same or similar Results with the V2...What i Find is that i Do Not get Clipping But Some of the Finer Detail gets lost in the Power of the FFB at 100% Global... with 85 Global and 85 Tire Force i find that i can Feel much more Subtle things Like Tire Chatter Long before the Tires Loose Grip while still having Good FFB Strength that im Not Fighting with the wheel to go Quick Left Quick Right....Theres always a Trade off... to get that same Fidelity at 100% Global FFB without Fighting the wheel i have to cut the Fy down by 10 to Lighten the wheel up.... I like a Heavy wheel Some times but for Long Races that Heavy wheel can be a bit Much... To Me the Power Diff between 100 and 85 is Very Slight... Still Tweeking for that Perect Balance. Sooo Far 85 FFB and 85 Tire Force feels best to me. I like FFB and Tire Force to be Even it feels Well Ballanced.

I Race/Tweek 4+ hrs a day and i always Tweek for the Best Road/Car Feel then take it to a Hot Lap... If i cant beat my Time....Back to Tweekin... LOL... Sooo Far so good i have a Few top 100 times that are all FFB wheel Tweek Nothing done to Car.

Titzon Toast
24-06-2015, 19:25
Dear Zeke,

I have the Turbo-S which is an older Fanatec wheel, and experienced similar behaviour with the old firmware for my wheel, meaning that the game only updated the display while moving the wheel. There was also absence of force feedback.

Since I am a Mac user I borrowed a PC with Vista (any version should work I guess, but older seem to be better in this case), disabled the virus checker (important), and updated the firmware. Be sure to read all the instructions before starting this process, and don't hesitate asking here or with Fanatec if something is unclear.

After the update my wheel works as advertised, a smooth experience. I am happy with Fanatec, support has always been good, and they allow running my old wheel on the new PS4. Amazing!

Can you post your settings please? I'm using the same wheel, trying to anyway.

Zeke Bewlay
24-06-2015, 21:19
Thanks Erwin. Yes, guess should be grateful that Fanatec have gone to trouble of trying to get their wheels to work with PS4. I. I note that both firmware 681 and 756 can be downloaded still making me think they are for different platforms (??). If so would be good to have that made clear in documentation.


Dear Zeke,

I have the Turbo-S which is an older Fanatec wheel, and experienced similar behaviour with the old firmware for my wheel, meaning that the game only updated the display while moving the wheel. There was also absence of force feedback.

Since I am a Mac user I borrowed a PC with Vista (any version should work I guess, but older seem to be better in this case), disabled the virus checker (important), and updated the firmware. Be sure to read all the instructions before starting this process, and don't hesitate asking here or with Fanatec if something is unclear.

After the update my wheel works as advertised, a smooth experience. I am happy with Fanatec, support has always been good, and they allow running my old wheel on the new PS4. Amazing!

gruzzlebeard
25-06-2015, 05:16
Hi,

I reported the shifter issue when patch 1.4 dropped (I'll find the report) and was advised this was a new feature I think... (It's in this thread posted a few days/weeks ago)

It means that a shifter must be calibrated each and every time you change car, but you must also know the exact transmission of the car before calibrating, and by doing so you lose your paddle shifters and when you decide to jump into another car you must exit the game, enter the menu and recalibrate the paddles losing SQ support....

I have not used my SQ since patch 1.4 as this feature is not convenient or practical for me.

The loss of FFB in game is a known issue, and I believe is being looked Into by SMS as it happens on all wheels.

The blue screen crash is a known issue and SMS have (or are) addressing this in the next patch I believe.

Off centre calibration is also reported by some users (Grimey included) I myself have experienced this recently, however I can only reproduce this on PCars.
I am currently testing new and old firmware on all 3 platforms (and many games) to pin down the exact cause of this issue as we speak.

Hope that helps :)

I discovered the wheel related isues as well. I'm not using a shifter.

Erwin Berkers
25-06-2015, 07:38
Can you post your settings please? I'm using the same wheel, trying to anyway.

Force Feedback settings are a bit comparable to car setup in the sense that these boil down to personal preference. I never use settings from others, instead I try understanding the concepts behind them for developing my own set. My preference is lighter and subtle feedback.

In the general section of this forum there is a sticky containing the “Project CARS Force Feedback Setup Guide”. In my opinion it is well written and explains the gist of the process involved as well as what all settings mean. I doubt I can contribute more than what is already in the guide.

Since you describe some behaviour I don’t encounter (I am referring to “It's the the exact same as I leave the pits alright, the wheel snatches violently when control is given back to me.” in your post #1096), you might focus on resolving that issue first. I usually take small changes at a time that helps me understand what is the effect of the last change. Another reason for not dialling in other people’s finished settings.

Do you recall having those problems after you first starting using the wheel, and/or resetting after the last patch?

Zeke Bewlay
25-06-2015, 07:40
Happy to report firmware 756 fixed all my issues and was painless to install. Now for some racing although I suspect there is still a bit of setting up to do.

Thanks Erwin. Yes, guess should be grateful that Fanatec have gone to trouble of trying to get their wheels to work with PS4. I. I note that both firmware 681 and 756 can be downloaded still making me think they are for different platforms (??). If so would be good to have that made clear in documentation.

LordDRIFT
25-06-2015, 13:45
No more invitation only. So before I drop ~1k on a video game controller. Are the v2s working flawlessly with pcars?

Sankyo
25-06-2015, 14:01
I note that both firmware 681 and 756 can be downloaded still making me think they are for different platforms (??). If so would be good to have that made clear in documentation.
No, 681 was the original default firmware, 756 is the most recent (and final) one. So it's just oldest and newest firmware, independent of platform. Not sure whether the old version is still available, but it may have to do with game support, i.e. old games never having been updated to use the latest firmware properly (though it all should be compatible AFAIK).

Fong74
25-06-2015, 14:03
No more invitation only. So before I drop ~1k on a video game controller. Are the v2s working flawlessly with pcars?

Well, I can say, yes! And I would buy it any time again if necessary. Best wheel I ever had so far (and I had many over the years). I really believe it can only be out-run by a direct drive wheel which is much more expensive. And tbh, I love a quite heavy wheel, I am completely soaked after a 1,5-2h race with pCars and a V2....I really dont know if much more power is really needed. But that clearly is a matter of tase and budget...

Only occasional issue:
If you experience a FFB loss now and then, just turn the base off and on again and regain full FFB. Seems to be a game/driver issue on PS4, as I never have it on PC. I also believe that this issue will be sorted out after v1.4 where a report could be sent after the FFb loss occured. The release notes for v2.0 state clearly, that this is not necessary anymore. My take is, its fixed now.

Sankyo
25-06-2015, 14:12
Only occasional issue:
If you experience a FFB loss now and then, just turn the base off and on again and regain full FFB. Seems to be a game/driver issue on PS4, as I never have it on PC. I also believe that this issue will be sorted out after v1.4 where a report could be sent after the FFb loss occured. The release notes for v2.0 state clearly, that this is not necessary anymore. My take is, its fixed now.
Do you have more info on how/when this FFB loss would happen?

LordDRIFT
25-06-2015, 14:14
Well, I can say, yes! And I would buy it any time again if necessary. Best wheel I ever had so far (and I had many over the years). I really believe it can only be out-run by a direct drive wheel which is much more expensive. And tbh, I love a quite heavy wheel, I am completely soaked after a 1,5-2h race with pCars and a V2....I really dont know if much more power is really needed. But that clearly is a matter of tase and budget...

Only occasional issue:
If you experience a FFB loss now and then, just turn the base off and on again and regain full FFB. Seems to be a game/driver issue on PS4, as I never have it on PC. I also believe that this issue will be sorted out after v1.4 where a report could be sent after the FFb loss occured. The release notes for v2.0 state clearly, that this is not necessary anymore. My take is, its fixed now.
Good to know

Do you have more info on how/when this FFB loss would happen?

Would like to hear more on this as well

vonb
25-06-2015, 14:29
In the meanwhile i had a short conversation with Jack Spade. He says i messed up the car physics with some of my settings.
So i decided to reset all my settings and start from the beginning.

Now i made it to find some setting with FFB 100 and Tireforce 100 and NO Clipping (maybe sometimes very little in extreme driving situations)

I tested many cars (not all) with the Jack Spade 66& Lateral and they all worked.
Maybe for some is little bit to soft, for some maybe little bit to strong.

But its easy now to optimize it by yourself, like Jack Spade recommends, by increasing or decreasing the "SpindleMasterScale" and "SoP Scale" in the same amount.

Here my Wheel Calibration Settings: Fanatec GT3 RS V2
Force Feedback to 100
Tireforce to 100
Per Wheel Movement 0.00
Per Wheel Movement Squared 0.00
Wheel Smooting 0.04
Deadzone Removal Range 0.00
Deadzone Removal Falloff 0.02
Linkage Scale 0.00
Linkage Stiffness 1.00
Linkage Damping 1.00
Relative Adjust Gain 1.10
Relative Adjust Bleed 0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp 0.95
Scoop Knee 0.70
Scoop Reduction 0.15
Soft Clipping (Half Input) 2.50
Soft Clipping (Full Input) 0.00

Now use Jack Spade's 66% Lateral Settings

Freak66
25-06-2015, 16:14
Since this is my first post: thank you all for a good discussion on Fanatec wheels, this thread contains some good information!

In answering to your issue, I haven't experienced my Turbo-S wheel pulling to the right after loading the track with the first screen in the pits. Does this happen with a specific car/track combination or is this always the case?

Yes happens everytime. Only when FFB gets competely lost (another issue that is documented on other wheels to) it wont.
I have to restart game and whell to get FFB back

Freak66
25-06-2015, 16:34
It's the the exact same as I leave the pits alright, the wheel snatches violently when control is given back to me.
I haven't played the game since Saturday night when I posted what I was experiencing. Hopefully when GrimeyDog fires up his old GT2 we'll another opinion on this, we might even get some good settings!
Something has to be lined up for all of us wheel users in the next patch, things don't seem quite right to me.
The Thrustmaster users have their centre spring issue too.

To make it clear: in my case the wheel does NOT snatch violent when control is given back AFTER leaving the box.
Its inside the box on the first screen after loading for Qualifying.
AND 2nd when a race starts and the camera view goes along the starting grid - it wont stop unil lights turn green.

Fong74
25-06-2015, 16:39
Do you have more info on how/when this FFB loss would happen?

Unfortunately this happens really on a random basis. All V1/2 users I know have that issue online and offline. All Thrustmaster users also do have it. It is not reproduceable, but it occurs online much more often I would say. Turning off/on almost always solves the issue. In very rare cases (happened to me only once, and Im playing pCars every evening since release at least for half an hour) only rebooting the PS4/restarting the wheel helped to bring the FFb back. So it could be a driver issue.

Steering/pedals/buttons are all working fine. Its just the FFB thats gone completely if this occurs.

With v1.4 the game crashed when you turned the wheel off/on and there was the option to send a report. With v1.0 no crashing occured btw.

My interpretation of v2.0 Release Notes bullet:
"* Fixed a crash issue when disconnecting and reconnecting Fanatec wheels."

was, that the reports sent were analyzed and the issue was fixed...

rotcock
25-06-2015, 16:40
I'm suffering from this issue too with my porsche gt2 on ps4. I thought it was a known issue. My findings ...

I have the feeling its completely random. Sometimes in free practise, sometimes in career mode. On different tracks with different cars. However I did not play online yet so no idea there.
The ffb loss does not go away when I "restart session" but most of the times it is resolved if I "exit" and then restart the race.

Sometimes 10 races in succession without problems and then 3 sessions with 2 times ffb loss.
So I dont have a clue what causes this nor how to reproduce it.

I'm loving the game. Definitely not a gamebreaker just a bit inconvenient sometimes.

Redslayer
26-06-2015, 01:37
Me and my friend (both using CSR wheels) have also suffered from loss of force feedback. It does seem almost completely random. But it's usually gone at the start of the session. Sometimes "return to pit" will fix it in practice or qually. Hope it gets sorted because it sucks when it happens in the race :(

Kain NL
26-06-2015, 05:15
I've done some testing yesterday...career, Caterham Classic first invitational race.
Restarted race session about 30 times. ONLY got the right FFB THREE times. Rest of the races it wasn't even one third of the right feel.

WadeOhh
26-06-2015, 06:00
Haven't turned the game on for a while, so I turned it on last night to check out what the patch brought to the game.

Looks a bit better visually for sure, but still no clutch, and still forced mandatory buttons? Thats a bummer...

Sankyo
26-06-2015, 06:58
I'm suffering from this issue too with my porsche gt2 on ps4. I thought it was a known issue. My findings ...

I have the feeling its completely random. Sometimes in free practise, sometimes in career mode. On different tracks with different cars. However I did not play online yet so no idea there.
The ffb loss does not go away when I "restart session" but most of the times it is resolved if I "exit" and then restart the race.

Sometimes 10 races in succession without problems and then 3 sessions with 2 times ffb loss.
So I dont have a clue what causes this nor how to reproduce it.

I'm loving the game. Definitely not a gamebreaker just a bit inconvenient sometimes.
So you are talking about instant/complete FFB loss? If yes, then that's a known issue (and solution has been found already). But I thought that we were talking about FFB becoming gradually weaker?

Fanatest
26-06-2015, 07:40
I've been testing, and the loss of FFB (complete loss) is just completely random as far as I can tell. It happens to my wheel every so often but for the life of me, I can't figure out a definite route to constantly reproduce.

The gradual loss of FFB is not something affects me (on PS4 only?) but can not consistsntly reproduce either.

Wheel lock up (where the wheel crashes/does not respond to power button etc) also happens to me randomly, however I'm unable to consultantly reproduce that either?

All these issues were experienced yesterday during a few races, however I was unable to find the route that caused them, so that I could effectively replicate and report them.

As they only happen in PCars, I'm going to leave them on my known issues log, and see if 2.0 resolves or reduces them, because I have not been able to reproduce these issues on any other games tested.

GrimeyDog
26-06-2015, 10:35
I found that if i Leave the wheel 10 min or so without touching anbutton or moving wheel left to right that when i Start a Race some times the FFB is Gone(PS4)...i back out the Race to the Main menu (O button 2x) and Power the wheel off and on and it works fine... No Error code either... maybe the Loss of FFB is the PS4/Wheel tyring to go into standby mode because of No Activity??? its very Random... a Trip to bathroom and a Drink is a Easy 10 min...it Doesn't Happen to me often as im buseybtapping thenButtons Tweeking away... LOL....Its getting better Been Having Fun on PCars Lately and Found a GreatbGroup of Racers to Run with Very Clean and Allnof them are F+&/%€g Fast!!! No More Tweeker Time i Gotta get back to Hittin the Tracks Studying the fast Line!!!

I still plan to Hook up my GT2 and see what i come up with Soon... This weekend if i can get outta the Honey Do list.... Uuuugh The wife and her Honey do this Honey do that... LOL

rotcock
26-06-2015, 11:22
I was talking about the complete loss of ffb at the beginning of a race. Sorry I must have misunderstood.



GrimeyDog, you might be on to something with standby mode.
Btw I'm looking forward to your findings on the gt2 wheel. Take your time though. Best of luck racing and pleasing the wife. (Hard combination - I know)

Titzon Toast
26-06-2015, 11:45
@GrimeyDog

Put your wife on a plane to Ireland and she can head out shopping with my Mrs, then you can get busy with your GT2.
I'm waiting on you to post your settings for it so I can try them out too!

Redslayer
26-06-2015, 18:28
Haven't turned the game on for a while, so I turned it on last night to check out what the patch brought to the game.

Looks a bit better visually for sure, but still no clutch, and still forced mandatory buttons? Thats a bummer...

Have you tried restoring your settings to default? My clutch works perfectly now using the CSR with elite pedals.

effinjamie
26-06-2015, 19:15
Still can't get my sequential shifter to work. When I try to assign it, it doesn't register change up and down, only 1st and 2 nod gear!

Sankyo
26-06-2015, 19:58
Still can't get my sequential shifter to work. When I try to assign it, it doesn't register change up and down, only 1st and 2 nod gear!

What shifter? How is it connected?

GrimeyDog
26-06-2015, 23:25
I've been testing, and the loss of FFB (complete loss) is just completely random as far as I can tell. It happens to my wheel every so often but for the life of me, I can't figure out a definite route to constantly reproduce.

The gradual loss of FFB is not something affects me (on PS4 only?) but can not consistsntly reproduce either.

Wheel lock up (where the wheel crashes/does not respond to power button etc) also happens to me randomly, however I'm unable to consultantly reproduce that either?

All these issues were experienced yesterday during a few races, however I was unable to find the route that caused them, so that I could effectively replicate and report them.

As they only happen in PCars, I'm going to leave them on my known issues log, and see if 2.0 resolves or reduces them, because I have not been able to reproduce these issues on any other games tested.

Very interesting!!! today that my Wheel lost FFB 3 Times in 1 Hour... That Has always been a Very Random.Event and Has Not Happend in almost 2 weeks....But what i Also took Note of is that Today i Did Not Have My Controler Pluggeg in to the PS4. Hmmm Very interesting....Has any 1 else Noticed that.

effinjamie
26-06-2015, 23:36
What shifter? How is it connected?

It's the CSR shifter set on PS4

WhoosierGirl
26-06-2015, 23:43
I have had total loss of FFB with the controller plugged in charging and with the controller completely off.

I was switching between GT6 and PCars trying to get the feel I wanted when I lost FBB on PCars. I immediately switched screens and plugged the wheel into the PS3/GT6 and had FBB, switched back to PCars (which I paused) and still had no FFB.

I thought the wheel was losing FFB because of heat but, now I am convinced it is game related and not the wheel.

My wheel is a GT3 RS.

gotdirt410sprintcar
27-06-2015, 00:38
Just a question? what button layout do you have I have a gt3rs. I know it probably be different for gt3,F1 ETC tips be cool thanks have fun racing. And my L2 R2 are my look buttons

gotdirt410sprintcar
27-06-2015, 00:43
I have had total loss of FFB with the controller plugged in charging and with the controller completely off.

I was switching between GT6 and PCars trying to get the feel I wanted when I lost FBB on PCars. I immediately switched screens and plugged the wheel into the PS3/GT6 and had FBB, switched back to PCars (which I paused) and still had no FFB.

I thought the wheel was losing FFB because of heat but, now I am convinced it is game related and not the wheel.

My wheel is a GT3 RS.
I would just stay on pcars then you wont have a problem. And try to make FFB like gt6 its better than that not worth trying, And the dial on the wheel leave everything zero. FFB 100

LordDRIFT
27-06-2015, 00:50
Very interesting!!! today that my Wheel lost FFB 3 Times in 1 Hour... That Has always been a Very Random.Event and Has Not Happend in almost 2 weeks....But what i Also took Note of is that Today i Did Not Have My Controler Pluggeg in to the PS4. Hmmm Very interesting....Has any 1 else Noticed that.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/55/08/4b/55084be16a6b92e2cdb97951f371f4df.jpg

laesilva
27-06-2015, 01:34
pcars necessita de uma atualização urgente pois volante fanatec gt3 rs v2 .... erro !!! desconectando e fechando o aplicativo !!!!!

Linx
27-06-2015, 04:53
Grimey. I mentioned this before and I don't remember if you had commented on it or not. But last week I experienced an issue where I had my FFB settings the way I wanted them, went into free practice and I had no FFB. I thought it did the tuning issue of things going back to default. But when I checked my FFB settings they had all the correct values. I would have to exit, go into my garage and load the settings to the track I was on, even though I saved it for all tracks, went back into free practice and it started working again. I found this bug to happen randomly and still occasionally happens. But like I said, even though I had my tune and FFB settings saved for all tracks, it would only work when loading the tune in garage for the specific track I wanted to race on.

McLari
27-06-2015, 08:05
Hi Guys, something off topic, but related to Fanatec. I damaged my RJ12 to PS2 (male) cable. Is there someone amongst you who has a spare he's willing to sell and send to the Netherlands? Not a standard cable in shops so I hope there is someone here who has one he doesn't use.

Linx
27-06-2015, 08:21
Newegg.com carries them

Kain NL
27-06-2015, 08:26
McLari pm

Kain NL
27-06-2015, 08:27
McLari pm.

GrimeyDog
27-06-2015, 13:21
Oooops...False alarm... Some How My Porsche Rim was Not Snapped on Tight... I Noticed that turning Hard Left the LCD would go dead... Hmmm... Took the Rim snapped it on again tightly and prblem Solved.... False alarm

Johnny_Aus
27-06-2015, 15:22
Played Assetto Corsa on PC today and wow it brought me back to reality!! The FFB in Project Cars on the PS4 is really a lacklustre effort which is very disappointing.

It's not smooth.

You don't feel the bumps on the road properly (unless the car bottoms out).

You feel disconnected with the car.

You can't catch slides anywhere nearly realistically.

Overall it just feels like the devs just haven't invested the required time and research into understanding the potential for these wheels. The FFB is so artificial compared to Assetto Corsa.

For what it's worth I'm running the Fanatec CSW V2, SQ V1.5 Shifter, Porsche 918 RSR Wheel and V2 (soon to be V3) pedals.

Tbh guys I've given up on this game improving the force feedback. The fact cars need to be individually tuned for FFB and some feel like complete crap says it all. The developers just took shortcuts and didn't do the necessary R&D to (at the very least) deliver a consistently enjoyable experience.

SUCH.. a shame.

LordDRIFT
27-06-2015, 15:50
Played Assetto Corsa on PC today and wow it brought me back to reality!! The FFB in Project Cars on the PS4 is really a lacklustre effort which is very disappointing.

It's not smooth.

You don't feel the bumps on the road properly (unless the car bottoms out).

You feel disconnected with the car.

You can't catch slides anywhere nearly realistically.

Overall it just feels like the devs just haven't invested the required time and research into understanding the potential for these wheels. The FFB is so artificial compared to Assetto Corsa.

For what it's worth I'm running the Fanatec CSW V2, SQ V1.5 Shifter, Porsche 918 RSR Wheel and V2 (soon to be V3) pedals.

Tbh guys I've given up on this game improving the force feedback. The fact cars need to be individually tuned for FFB and some feel like complete crap says it all. The developers just took shortcuts and didn't do the necessary R&D to (at the very least) deliver a consistently enjoyable experience.

SUCH.. a shame.

Played GT6 yesterday on a lowly dfgt. I must sadly agree. But it does give me insight on what I need to tune for. I think I've been exaggerating some of my settings in pcars.

pover74
27-06-2015, 16:27
AB15/03775 that's product code from fanatec as they are pre order give them that part number and they will send u 1 via ups mine arrived in 2 days to uk

Titzon Toast
27-06-2015, 17:17
I have a good few hours tonight to try and find a set up that actually works for me.
I'm not holding out much hope but I'm determined none the less.
If all else fails, I'm going back to playing Forza 4 until I hear that Project Cars has finally been sorted.

Sankyo
27-06-2015, 17:52
Played Assetto Corsa on PC today and wow it brought me back to reality!! The FFB in Project Cars on the PS4 is really a lacklustre effort which is very disappointing.

It's not smooth.

You don't feel the bumps on the road properly (unless the car bottoms out).

You feel disconnected with the car.

You can't catch slides anywhere nearly realistically.

Overall it just feels like the devs just haven't invested the required time and research into understanding the potential for these wheels. The FFB is so artificial compared to Assetto Corsa.

For what it's worth I'm running the Fanatec CSW V2, SQ V1.5 Shifter, Porsche 918 RSR Wheel and V2 (soon to be V3) pedals.

Tbh guys I've given up on this game improving the force feedback. The fact cars need to be individually tuned for FFB and some feel like complete crap says it all. The developers just took shortcuts and didn't do the necessary R&D to (at the very least) deliver a consistently enjoyable experience.

SUCH.. a shame.
FFB is highly personal. Personally I find AC's FFB very artificial and canned, and pCARS's FFB (when tuned to personal taste) much more informative. This isn't a bad thing, as long as people recognize that you cannot satisfy everyone and that a personal dislike with the game's FFB doesn't mean that the devs did a poor job.

Linx
27-06-2015, 19:09
FFB is highly personal. Personally I find AC's FFB very artificial and canned, and pCARS's FFB (when tuned to personal taste) much more informative. This isn't a bad thing, as long as people recognize that you cannot satisfy everyone and that a personal dislike with the game's FFB doesn't mean that the devs did a poor job.
I don't feel the devs did a bad job. I just really thought the fact that we have to tune our own FFB was a bad idea. Especially when no instructions were given to what each parameter does, leaving us to figure it out. My experience with using a real wheel set up has been with Forza 3 and 4 and I like the fact that FFB works how it should and the player doesn't have to worry about making any tweaks. Especially when your FFB tune can effect how you tuned your car. To be honest I think it's ridiculous that FFB settings was left for us to tune. In real life you tune how you want the car to drive and tuning FFB does not play a role in that process. I mean what upsets me about it is I might have the perfect tune (to my taste) on a certain car. But if my FFB settings are not right then it throws everything off. I just think this was a bad decision and should of been something we don't have to do.

GrimeyDog
27-06-2015, 20:34
Played Assetto Corsa on PC today and wow it brought me back to reality!! The FFB in Project Cars on the PS4 is really a lacklustre effort which is very disappointing.

It's not smooth.

You don't feel the bumps on the road properly (unless the car bottoms out).

You feel disconnected with the car.

You can't catch slides anywhere nearly realistically.

Overall it just feels like the devs just haven't invested the required time and research into understanding the potential for these wheels. The FFB is so artificial compared to Assetto Corsa.

For what it's worth I'm running the Fanatec CSW V2, SQ V1.5 Shifter, Porsche 918 RSR Wheel and V2 (soon to be V3) pedals.

Tbh guys I've given up on this game improving the force feedback. The fact cars need to be individually tuned for FFB and some feel like complete crap says it all. The developers just took shortcuts and didn't do the necessary R&D to (at the very least) deliver a consistently enjoyable experience.

SUCH.. a shame.

You just Need a Good wheel tweek...The FFB is there you just have to tweek it out...your using the V2 try using my Tweek PDF Plug it in Exactly as it is dont mix it with other tweeks.... Set the FFB to 85, Tire Force 85 and Relative adjust bleed to 50 for the v2. The rest of the info is in the PDF if you cant find it i will post it again if you like... you maybe able get it by viewing my Profile.

McLari
27-06-2015, 21:35
McLari pm.

Thanks, problem probably solved by Remco.

Kain NL
27-06-2015, 23:06
FFB is highly personal. Personally I find AC's FFB very artificial and canned, and pCARS's FFB (when tuned to personal taste) much more informative. This isn't a bad thing, as long as people recognize that you cannot satisfy everyone and that a personal dislike with the game's FFB doesn't mean that the devs did a poor job.

Remco, at pc they might have done marvelous...but on ps4 and XOne...they messed up badly...how else can there be 115 pages of mostly complaints...
I hope patch 2.0 will resolve most probs...so Grimey can get back to work again... ;)

GrimeyDog
28-06-2015, 00:55
Remco, at pc they might have done marvelous...but on ps4 and XOne...they messed up badly...how else can there be 115 pages of mostly complaints...
I hope patch 2.0 will resolve most probs...so Grimey can get back to work again... ;)

Nope i Have the FFB Right where its best for me... Its a perfect blend Between GT 6 and Asetto Corsa. Im done with Pcars and FFB once i do The 911 gt2 wheel settings.

Boss_335
28-06-2015, 06:26
Nope i Have the FFB Right where its best for me... Its a perfect blend Between GT 6 and Asetto Corsa. Im done with Pcars and FFB once i do The 911 gt2 wheel settings.

Thanks for your efforts Grimey, it's great to see members like yourself helping us less skilled GT2/3 users out with FFB setting. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

Johnny_Aus
28-06-2015, 15:39
Any fix for the notchy feeling? That's my biggest problem. All throughout the FFB it's EXTREMELY cogy and notchy.

In Assetto Corsa the FFB is smooth as butter.

No matter what I change in the settings (game and wheel) the cogy notchy feeling remains.

It doesn't feel good for the wheel I must say.

Kain NL
28-06-2015, 15:51
Nope i Have the FFB Right where its best for me... Its a perfect blend Between GT 6 and Asetto Corsa. Im done with Pcars and FFB once i do The 911 gt2 wheel settings.

For now Grimey...it's a well known fact there were calculation mistakes made in p1.4, so after p2.0 or later...you'll be all over the FFB again...lol

Nono
28-06-2015, 16:01
Hi,

I have a question for Grimey. I just read your pdf settings made with the CSW V2 (I just received mine) and I would like to understand exactly what do you call "DOR". Sorry for my question, I'm french and don't understand all the subtleties of english language ;o)
On the wheel, must I let Spr, Dpr and For to 100 ?

Thanks for answers and all the help you give to us man. :02.47-tranquillity:

Titzon Toast
28-06-2015, 16:48
I couldn't get anything going last night as far as settings and feel go.
To me the ffb just felt all over the place, nothing constant. I'm just gonna wait for 2.0 and see what happens.

Fong74
28-06-2015, 17:07
Hi,

I have a question for Grimey. I just read your pdf settings made with the CSW V2 (I just received mine) and I would like to understand exactly what do you call "DOR". Sorry for my question, I'm french and don't understand all the subtleties of english language ;o)
On the wheel, must I let Spr, Dpr and For to 100 ?

Thanks for answers and all the help you give to us man. :02.47-tranquillity:

Its the first option to the right when you enter the Settings on the wheel (S_1, S_2 etc)....its named SEN at the moment.

Nono
28-06-2015, 22:54
Its the first option to the right when you enter the Settings on the wheel (S_1, S_2 etc)....its named SEN at the moment.

Thanks for your answer, I was not sure about that.
I see on your signature that you use Dpr: 0, Spr: 0 and Dri 3, it's what you use for Project Cars on PS4, right? You can explain these settings please ? For me I have actualy Spr: 100, Dpr: 100 and Dri: 0, whith Jake Spade tweeks. Had a CSR-E (fw 756) before and I'm a little troubled with the new values system of CSW V2, fw 94 (and very enjoying with it also). And Abs: off ? PC can control it when it's off ?
Thanks again ;o)

Redslayer
29-06-2015, 01:01
Restarted my CSR due to not having Force feedback, and the game froze to the point my PS4 couldn't close the application, and couldn't turn off lol. I had to manually shut it down by holding the power button.

On another note, I guess I need to figure out what all these settings do in the FFB section so I cat tweak them lol. Is there a guide to setting up the FFB per car on Ps4?

WadeOhh
29-06-2015, 01:05
Have you tried restoring your settings to default? My clutch works perfectly now using the CSR with elite pedals.

Ahhhh, perfect. Thanks for this info.

Yes, hitting 'reset' in the controller settings page fixed this and made it recognise the clutch pedal. Now the clutch works perfectly.

Fong74
29-06-2015, 12:02
Thanks for your answer, I was not sure about that.
I see on your signature that you use Dpr: 0, Spr: 0 and Dri 3, it's what you use for Project Cars on PS4, right? You can explain these settings please ? For me I have actualy Spr: 100, Dpr: 100 and Dri: 0, whith Jake Spade tweeks. Had a CSR-E (fw 756) before and I'm a little troubled with the new values system of CSW V2, fw 94 (and very enjoying with it also). And Abs: off ? PC can control it when it's off ?
Thanks again ;o)

Yes, my sig contains my PS4 settings for pCars.

I like the wheel to do what the game/the devs ment it to do. So I like to use as few wheel options as possible. Therefore I am using Dpr: 0, Spr: 0 and Dri 3. Dri 3 is the default = neutral setting according to Fanatec, so I use it meanwhile. Before I was told by some guys at WMD that 3 is the neutral setting I used Dri 0. 3 feels better imho but I had to get used to it after using Dri 0 for quite some time.

GrimeyDog
29-06-2015, 12:08
I Havent been able to post or Tweek this weekend.. the Honey do list is Killing My Free Time... Planning my 25th wedding aniversry Party and Mrs Grimey is a Bridezilla!!!

Sik180sx
29-06-2015, 12:15
I couldn't get anything going last night as far as settings and feel go.
To me the ffb just felt all over the place, nothing constant. I'm just gonna wait for 2.0 and see what happens.

Where is it not working for you mate?you have a turbo s,is that correct?I'm finally cracking the code so to speak,and my turbo s is working beautifully,maybe i can help.

GrimeyDog
29-06-2015, 14:12
There are just too Many Tweeking options that Have Little or No Noticable Effect... Dont let all the options Confuse you, you dont need to use them all... its all a Nubers game use my PDF and + or - where Noted to find the FFB that fits you... the Custom FFB tweek option is Great once you get your Base FFB Settings where you like them... No way around it your going to Have to Tweek a bit to find your ideal FFB settings... Even im Still Learning about my Tweek... Some cars Need More "Fy" some cars Need More "MZ" ETC... i Noted what each setting Brings out or Reduces. Dont give up Tweek Tweek Tweek.... I dont think the FFB will change much even after the Next update... it may just be a tad bit more refined.

if your using a V2 set Global FFB to 85, Tire Force 85 and Relative adjust bleed to 50.

im still working on the GT2 wheel settings... Stay tuned but its based on the same tweek just Lower Global and Lower Master settings.... Tweek Tweek Tweek the FFB is there Folliw the Blue print.

Redslayer
29-06-2015, 14:27
Ahhhh, perfect. Thanks for this info.

Yes, hitting 'reset' in the controller settings page fixed this and made it recognise the clutch pedal. Now the clutch works perfectly.

:D


There are just too Many Tweeking options that Have Little or No Noticable Effect... Dont let all the options Confuse you, you dont need to use them all... its all a Nubers game use my PDF and + or - where Noted to find the FFB that fits you... the Custom FFB tweek option is Great once you get your Base FFB Settings where you like them... No way around it your going to Have to Tweek a bit to find your ideal FFB settings... Even im Still Learning about my Tweek... Some cars Need More "Fy" some cars Need More "MZ" ETC... i Noted what each setting Brings out or Reduces. Dont give up Tweek Tweek Tweek.... I dont think the FFB will change much even after the Next update... it may just be a tad bit more refined.

if your using a V2 set Global FFB to 85, Tire Force 85 and Relative adjust bleed to 50.

im still working on the GT2 wheel settings... Stay tuned but its based on the same tweek just Lower Global and Lower Master settings.... Tweek Tweek Tweek the FFB is there Folliw the Blue print.

Where can I find the pdf? o.o

Fong74
29-06-2015, 14:32
Its attached to Grimeys last post...

"Attached Files Attached Files

File Type: pdf PCars 1.4 tweek v#07.pdf (65.5 KB, 0 views)"

Redslayer
29-06-2015, 15:12
Its attached to Grimeys last post...

"Attached Files Attached Files

File Type: pdf PCars 1.4 tweek v#07.pdf (65.5 KB, 0 views)"

It wasn't before :p

Nono
29-06-2015, 16:16
Yes, my sig contains my PS4 settings for pCars.

I like the wheel to do what the game/the devs ment it to do. So I like to use as few wheel options as possible. Therefore I am using Dpr: 0, Spr: 0 and Dri 3. Dri 3 is the default = neutral setting according to Fanatec, so I use it meanwhile. Before I was told by some guys at WMD that 3 is the neutral setting I used Dri 0. 3 feels better imho but I had to get used to it after using Dri 0 for quite some time.

Thank you very much for your answers Fong74, I will try these settings this evening. It's valuable advice for me, I was a little bit confused after my CSR-E settings (fw 756) ;o)

Redslayer
29-06-2015, 18:38
Tried the settings in the PDF something in there made my wheel always kick to the right when I first loaded up a race. No idea what, but I recalibrated it, restarted the game and it still did it, reset the settings and it quit lol. Strange, guess my wheel just didn't like it lol.

Zeke Bewlay
30-06-2015, 09:59
A little while back after buying a GT3 wheel for pCars and then reading this thread I was concerned about my purchase and wondered if I could get it to work reasonably well. Now I am pretty happy. Getting a few basic tips on how to make the wheel work with pCars and then Using Vonb's FFb settings I am really happy with the feel of the wheel and game. So anyone starting out, it does work! Great sim buy the way. Sue there's a few glitches but nothing deal breaking.

GrimeyDog
30-06-2015, 10:04
A little while back after buying a GT3 wheel for pCars and then reading this thread I was concerned about my purchase and wondered if I could get it to work reasonably well. Now I am pretty happy. Getting a few basic tips on how to make the wheel work with pCars and then Using Vonb's FFb settings I am really happy with the feel of the wheel and game. So anyone starting out, it does work! Great sim buy the way. Sue there's a few glitches but nothing deal breaking.

Can you post your Settings or a link to the settings i would like to look at them/ Try them.on my GT2

Freak66
30-06-2015, 13:00
Where is it not working for you mate?you have a turbo s,is that correct?I'm finally cracking the code so to speak,and my turbo s is working beautifully,maybe i can help.

Sik180sx: Tiz, me and some other Turbo S users cannot find right FFB settings and are not happy at all:
could you post your FFB settings for wheel, global (control menu) and car (car setup menu)???
Do you play on PS4, PC or XBox?

We would appreciate your help sooooo much!

P.S.: I am on PS4 and driving mainly GT3 and some LMP

Sik180sx
30-06-2015, 15:46
Sik180sx: Tiz, me and some other Turbo S users cannot find right FFB settings and are not happy at all:
could you post your FFB settings for wheel, global (control menu) and car (car setup menu)???
Do you play on PS4, PC or XBox?

We would appreciate your help sooooo much!


P.S.: I am on PS4 and driving mainly GT3 and some LMP
Glad to mate :) i'm on ps4
Ok here goes:
Global settings

Tyre force: 70
Per wheel movement: 0.0
Wheel movement squared: 0.0
Wheel pos smoothing: 0.4
Deadzone removal range: 0.05
Deadzone removal falloff: 0.10
Linkage scale: 0.00
Linkage stiffness: 1.00
Linkage damping: 1.00
Relative adjust gain: 1.10
Relative adjust bleed: 0.15
Relative adjust clamp: 0.95
Scoop knee: 0.70
Scoop reduction: 0.15
Soft clip (half input): 7.00
Soft clip (full output): 10.00

Now in the car settings,i have been using the same base settings for every car and tweaking them in free practice,they work pretty good out the gate but of course you can adjust master scale to your liking

Master scale: 40
Fx scale: 64.01
Fy scale: 64.01
Fz scale: 104.00
Mz scale: 92.00

No smoothing at all,and leave the arm angle where it is until you test drive

Body settings leave as they are

Sop scale: 40
Sop lateral scale: 60
Sop differential: 60
Sop damping: 0.0

Make sure in game force feedback in configuration is set too 100,speed sensitivity,controller filtering sensitivity,damper saturation is at 0 and the advanced tab under the controller input mode is off.

Ok now settings on the turbo s are
Sens: off
Ff: 100
Sho: 000
Dri: 3(mine is on 4 but really this is a preferance thing i guess)
Abs: off
Lin: 000
Dea: 000
Spr: off
Dpr: off
Acl: off

Just make sure your settings are exactly the same as what i've listed above,these setiing feel awesome for me(subjective haha) i get good road feel,weight transfer and weight with no clipping.hope it works as good for you as it does for me Happy Racing.

Freak66
30-06-2015, 19:21
Glad to mate :) i'm on ps4
Ok here goes:
Global settings

Tyre force: 70
Per wheel movement: 0.0
Wheel movement squared: 0.0
Wheel pos smoothing: 0.4
Deadzone removal range: 0.05
Deadzone removal falloff: 0.10
Linkage scale: 0.00
Linkage stiffness: 1.00
Linkage damping: 1.00
Relative adjust gain: 1.10
Relative adjust bleed: 0.15
Relative adjust clamp: 0.95
Scoop knee: 0.70
Scoop reduction: 0.15
Soft clip (half input): 7.00
Soft clip (full output): 10.00

Now in the car settings,i have been using the same base settings for every car and tweaking them in free practice,they work pretty good out the gate but of course you can adjust master scale to your liking

Master scale: 40
Fx scale: 64.01
Fy scale: 64.01
Fz scale: 104.00
Mz scale: 92.00

No smoothing at all,and leave the arm angle where it is until you test drive

Body settings leave as they are

Sop scale: 40
Sop lateral scale: 60
Sop differential: 60
Sop damping: 0.0

Make sure in game force feedback in configuration is set too 100,speed sensitivity,controller filtering sensitivity,damper saturation is at 0 and the advanced tab under the controller input mode is off.

Ok now settings on the turbo s are
Sens: off
Ff: 100
Sho: 000
Dri: 3(mine is on 4 but really this is a preferance thing i guess)
Abs: off
Lin: 000
Dea: 000
Spr: off
Dpr: off
Acl: off

Just make sure your settings are exactly the same as what i've listed above,these setiing feel awesome for me(subjective haha) i get good road feel,weight transfer and weight with no clipping.hope it works as good for you as it does for me Happy Racing.

Thank you! :congratulatory:
I am looking forward trying (hopefully tomorrow) and come back

Islandlad77
30-06-2015, 19:32
Just did a great race against Ai at Oulton Park in the porsche gt3 then switched to the Aston Martin gt3, selected azur circuit. No ffb or feel what so ever.
man this game needs sorting out and then some

Steve

Titzon Toast
30-06-2015, 19:51
Where is it not working for you mate?you have a turbo s,is that correct?I'm finally cracking the code so to speak,and my turbo s is working beautifully,maybe i can help.

Cheers man, I'd be delighted to try out whatever settings you've come up with.
I've never been any good with tuning settings or wheel settings, I've always just used stuff that people had generously shared online!
Thank you very much for the offer of help.

Marlo
30-06-2015, 21:24
Glad to mate :) i'm on ps4
Ok here goes:
Global settings

Tyre force: 70
Per wheel movement: 0.0
Wheel movement squared: 0.0
Wheel pos smoothing: 0.4
Deadzone removal range: 0.05
Deadzone removal falloff: 0.10
Linkage scale: 0.00
Linkage stiffness: 1.00
Linkage damping: 1.00
Relative adjust gain: 1.10
Relative adjust bleed: 0.15
Relative adjust clamp: 0.95
Scoop knee: 0.70
Scoop reduction: 0.15
Soft clip (half input): 7.00
Soft clip (full output): 10.00

Now in the car settings,i have been using the same base settings for every car and tweaking them in free practice,they work pretty good out the gate but of course you can adjust master scale to your liking

Master scale: 40
Fx scale: 64.01
Fy scale: 64.01
Fz scale: 104.00
Mz scale: 92.00

No smoothing at all,and leave the arm angle where it is until you test drive

Body settings leave as they are

Sop scale: 40
Sop lateral scale: 60
Sop differential: 60
Sop damping: 0.0

Make sure in game force feedback in configuration is set too 100,speed sensitivity,controller filtering sensitivity,damper saturation is at 0 and the advanced tab under the controller input mode is off.

Ok now settings on the turbo s are
Sens: off
Ff: 100
Sho: 000
Dri: 3(mine is on 4 but really this is a preferance thing i guess)
Abs: off
Lin: 000
Dea: 000
Spr: off
Dpr: off
Acl: off

Just make sure your settings are exactly the same as what i've listed above,these setiing feel awesome for me(subjective haha) i get good road feel,weight transfer and weight with no clipping.hope it works as good for you as it does for me Happy Racing.


Tried it on the 911 Turbo S and these Global settings is awsome! Thanks!

I use the Jack Spades FY+SOP settings, this is a lighter FFB per car than you are using there, so anyone using fy+sop should increase Tire force to 100.

I still found it a little light so i did this to further feel some more weight in the center:
Increased every car Master spindle scale and Sop scale with +4
Increased every car MZ with +20

I also added +20 to Fz for every car to get more bump feel.

For me these settings feel great, no clipping, strong FFB :D

Sik180sx
30-06-2015, 22:00
Cheers man, I'd be delighted to try out whatever settings you've come up with.
I've never been any good with tuning settings or wheel settings, I've always just used stuff that people had generously shared online!
Thank you very much for the offer of help. A few posts above yours mate,force feedback is a subjective thing so if its to light just ramp up your tyre force like mario has done :)

Titzon Toast
30-06-2015, 22:14
A few posts above yours mate,force feedback is a subjective thing so if its to light just ramp up your tyre force like mario has done :)

You're a gentleman and a scholar.
I'll get my rig set up and try these settings out tomorrow evening hopefully.
Thank you very much.

Titzon Toast
30-06-2015, 22:22
Tried it on the 911 Turbo S and these Global settings is awsome! Thanks!

I use the Jack Spades FY+SOP settings, this is a lighter FFB per car than you are using there, so anyone using fy+sop should increase Tire force to 100.

I still found it a little light so i did this to further feel some more weight in the center:
Increased every car Master spindle scale and Sop scale with +4
Increased every car MZ with +20

I also added +20 to Fz for every car to get more bump feel.

For me these settings feel great, no clipping, strong FFB :D

This looks promising!

GrimeyDog
01-07-2015, 10:02
Exactly!!! This is How your supposed to Tweek... Take the settings and + or - to your personal FFB Taste... Thats all Tweeking is about... This Tweek your own FFB once they get All the Bugs out of the Game will be a Great thing.... Yes it can be time Consuming and Frustrating at times but Tweeek on My Friends Tweeek on... The Pay Off is Huge.

GrimeyDog
01-07-2015, 10:05
I Had a Few Good Runs with -Brick_Top- yesterday!!! Thats what its all about Good Clean Racing!!! My PSN and Xbox tags are in my Sig send me a Friend inv!!! Lets Do it. Vrooom Vrooom.

Freak66
01-07-2015, 20:16
Glad to mate :) i'm on ps4
Ok here goes:
Global settings

Tyre force: 70
Per wheel movement: 0.0
Wheel movement squared: 0.0
Wheel pos smoothing: 0.4
Deadzone removal range: 0.05
Deadzone removal falloff: 0.10
Linkage scale: 0.00
Linkage stiffness: 1.00
Linkage damping: 1.00
Relative adjust gain: 1.10
Relative adjust bleed: 0.15
Relative adjust clamp: 0.95
Scoop knee: 0.70
Scoop reduction: 0.15
Soft clip (half input): 7.00
Soft clip (full output): 10.00

Now in the car settings,i have been using the same base settings for every car and tweaking them in free practice,they work pretty good out the gate but of course you can adjust master scale to your liking

Master scale: 40
Fx scale: 64.01
Fy scale: 64.01
Fz scale: 104.00
Mz scale: 92.00

No smoothing at all,and leave the arm angle where it is until you test drive

Body settings leave as they are

Sop scale: 40
Sop lateral scale: 60
Sop differential: 60
Sop damping: 0.0

Make sure in game force feedback in configuration is set too 100,speed sensitivity,controller filtering sensitivity,damper saturation is at 0 and the advanced tab under the controller input mode is off.

Ok now settings on the turbo s are
Sens: off
Ff: 100
Sho: 000
Dri: 3(mine is on 4 but really this is a preferance thing i guess)
Abs: off
Lin: 000
Dea: 000
Spr: off
Dpr: off
Acl: off

Just make sure your settings are exactly the same as what i've listed above,these setiing feel awesome for me(subjective haha) i get good road feel,weight transfer and weight with no clipping.hope it works as good for you as it does for me Happy Racing.

In the last weeks I spent a lot of hours on FFB tweaking and nothing worked.
I felt improvement with some tweaks from Grimey (thank you again!), but of course this tweaks were not made for Turbo S.

Now I tested your settings and man, I am so happy to feel the car (especially the back), bumps, curbs - its awesome! :very_drunk:
Sik180sx, Thank you so much for sharing - its magic! :unconscious:

AND I nearly forgot: the strange phenomenon that the wheel turns full power to the right as soon as I am in the pits after loading and at race start is completely gone!!!
It obviously was something in the FFB settings that triggered that (although I still dont understand why the wheel always wanted to turn to the right but never to the left - so what....)

There is only 1 thing to FFB heaven:
do you know how to increase the feel for the front wheels, in particular to get a more sensitive feel, when the front wheels are losing grip because of too much steering angle?
Is it possible at all, to reflect feel for understeer with PCars and Turbo S?

Sik180sx
01-07-2015, 21:43
In the last weeks I spent a lot of hours on FFB tweaking and nothing worked.
I felt improvement with some tweaks from Grimey (thank you again!), but of course this tweaks were not made for Turbo S.

Now I tested your settings and man, I am so happy to feel the car (especially the back), bumps, curbs - its awesome! :very_drunk:
Sik180sx, Thank you so much for sharing - its magic! :unconscious:

AND I nearly forgot: the strange phenomenon that the wheel turns full power to the right as soon as I am in the pits after loading and at race start is completely gone!!!
It obviously was something in the FFB settings that triggered that (although I still dont understand why the wheel always wanted to turn to the right but never to the left - so what....)

There is only 1 thing to FFB heaven:
do you know how to increase the feel for the front wheels, in particular to get a more sensitive feel, when the front wheels are losing grip because of too much steering angle?
Is it possible at all, to reflect feel for understeer with PCars and Turbo S? So glad i could help mate and i'm glad you like the settings :) to get more of the loss of grip feel turn up the MZ scale on the front ,that should help but the side affect will be heavier steering so do it little bits at a time,and you could lower the arm angle as well,once again glad i could help make your FFB experience a bit better.

Titzon Toast
02-07-2015, 14:37
So glad i could help mate and i'm glad you like the settings :) to get more of the loss of grip feel turn up the MZ scale on the front ,that should help but the side affect will be heavier steering so do it little bits at a time,and you could lower the arm angle as well,once again glad i could help make your FFB experience a bit better.

I had a quick go using your settings today and I have to say, they're the best I've tried so far.
My four year old son was tormenting me while I was doing a couple of laps, then the ffb died altogether.
Thanks again for sharing your settings. I'm looking forward to trying them out properly later on.

Sik180sx
02-07-2015, 14:51
I had a quick go using your settings today and I have to say, they're the best I've tried so far.
My four year old son was tormenting me while I was doing a couple of laps, then the ffb died altogether.
Thanks again for sharing your settings. I'm looking forward to trying them out properly later on.

All good mate,glad to help a fellow turbo s user:) i'm pretty sure the losing ffb thing is a bug

GrimeyDog
02-07-2015, 15:20
So glad i could help mate and i'm glad you like the settings :) to get more of the loss of grip feel turn up the MZ scale on the front ,that should help but the side affect will be heavier steering so do it little bits at a time,and you could lower the arm angle as well,once again glad i could help make your FFB experience a bit better.

Exactly!!! Once you have your Global FFB settings Right the "MZ" is where most of the Majic Happens on a Per Car Basis. I Run all the Cars Stock with No Suspension Tweeks... Once i find the Propper "MZ" for that Cars Weight Balance its Good to go... at least for Now....we will see what changes after the Next update Ex: a 50/50 Car will Use a Different "MZ" than a Car thats 55/45 etc.

Titzon Toast
02-07-2015, 16:28
All good mate,glad to help a fellow turbo s user:) i'm pretty sure the losing ffb thing is a bug

It certainly is a bug alright, it's the first time I've experienced it too.
Hopefully patch 2.0 will finally sort out all of these problems people are having.

rotcock
02-07-2015, 17:43
Glad to mate :) i'm on ps4
Ok here goes:
Global settings

...





Sik180sx ! Thanks man, very good settings.
Tested them on my gt2 on ps4. No clipping at all!!!!! Even when, as you suggested if a bit light, I increased tyre force. It's on 100 and feels great.
You made my day ... and many to follow.

john0
03-07-2015, 08:14
I reported this back on page 88. But my symptoms / replication steps are slightly different now.

Setup:
Fanatec CSR-Elite
Fanatec CSR-Elite Pedals (plugged into wheel)

Steps to replicate:
Turn on wheel. Put wheel into PC mode. Turn on PS4. Load up PCars. Go straight into career mode, Forumla Rookie, Oulton Park practice session (specific mode / car / track almost certainly not important, but wanted to be as detailed as possible).

Problems:
1) Sometimes the FFB is very "light" and lacking in detailed feedback. Most of the time quitting out of the session and returning to it fixes the issue (it rarely happens for two "sessions" in a row).
2) This can also happen with any session, including online sessions, which is obviously not ideal because you can't just simply quit out and hop back in again.

Does anyone know a workaround for this? I've tried touching the Duel Shock as little as possible, but this doesn't seem to make a difference.

Failing there being a workaround, does anyone know if this is being looked into? Or if it will be fixed for patch 2.0?

Thanks!

Freak66
03-07-2015, 15:38
So glad i could help mate and i'm glad you like the settings :) to get more of the loss of grip feel turn up the MZ scale on the front ,that should help but the side affect will be heavier steering so do it little bits at a time,and you could lower the arm angle as well,once again glad i could help make your FFB experience a bit better.

Thank you - I already played with MZ, Tire Force and Arm Angel on the Aston GT3 and found improvement.
But I think my Turbo S is just to old to get this fine and crisp feel for front grip loss I would wish for.

But anyhow I am happy now and able to enjoy this great racing sim.... and my lap times improved dramaticly (yesterday a 2:15:200 in Spa with the GT3 Aston in a race).

Many Turbo S and GT2 users were trying and waiting for help.
You are a real gent to share your ingeniousness and - for sure - many hours of tweaking!:very_drunk:

Redslayer
03-07-2015, 18:32
Sop scale: 40
Sop lateral scale: 60
Sop differential: 60
Sop damping: 0.0

where and what are these settings?

Sik180sx
03-07-2015, 22:26
Sop scale: 40
Sop lateral scale: 60
Sop differential: 60
Sop damping: 0.0

where and what are these settings? they are in per car settings,when you hit R1 to set-up ffb on each car and you see master scale,fx,fy an so on,hit R2 or L2 to change your SoP settings.

Redslayer
04-07-2015, 02:07
they are in per car settings,when you hit R1 to set-up ffb on each car and you see master scale,fx,fy an so on,hit R2 or L2 to change your SoP settings.

Ah, going to check this out now...

Every time I have changed the global FFB settings it has made something go wrong, from a hard spin to the right, to extreme shudder in a straight line (even after putting the settings back, had to reset everything to fix it). But using the per car settings seems to be working well enough.

Sik180sx
04-07-2015, 02:37
Ah, going to check this out now...

Every time I have changed the global FFB settings it has made something go wrong, from a hard spin to the right, to extreme shudder in a straight line (even after putting the settings back, had to reset everything to fix it). But using the per car settings seems to be working well enough.
I put some global settings up on the page before if you wanna try them out mate,myself and a few others have had some sucess with them :) what i would like too see is some graphs pertaining to the the slope of force on the 911 series so as to get a better idea of how to set the scoop knee function,but as of yet my internet searches have not yeilded any results.
Hopefully after i do some (a lot) more tweaking with global settings i'll update here,for fellow 911 series users,also i wanna say thanks to grimey :)cause it was his headway that made me try and sort some specific settings for the 911 guys,so once again cheers Grimeydog.

Redslayer
04-07-2015, 04:47
I put some global settings up on the page before if you wanna try them out mate,myself and a few others have had some sucess with them :) what i would like too see is some graphs pertaining to the the slope of force on the 911 series so as to get a better idea of how to set the scoop knee function,but as of yet my internet searches have not yeilded any results.
Hopefully after i do some (a lot) more tweaking with global settings i'll update here,for fellow 911 series users,also i wanna say thanks to grimey :)cause it was his headway that made me try and sort some specific settings for the 911 guys,so once again cheers Grimeydog.

I tried those, and that's when I was getting the weird shake. The car specific tweaks seem to work pretty good, though I have to get used to the game all over again lol.

I'm also using a CSR. So it may just be the difference in wheels. Every different set up I've tried in the global settings has netted some kind of weird issue. I'm just gonna leave it alone, it feels alright as is.

Sik180sx
04-07-2015, 08:32
I tried those, and that's when I was getting the weird shake. The car specific tweaks seem to work pretty good, though I have to get used to the game all over again lol.

I'm also using a CSR. So it may just be the difference in wheels. Every different set up I've tried in the global settings has netted some kind of weird issue. I'm just gonna leave it alone, it feels alright as is.
Ah ok CSR,you could those global setting but change deadzone removal range 0.1 instead of the 0.05,but if you got something you're liking leave it there bud :) glad the per car settings are helping at least :)

Sik180sx
04-07-2015, 08:57
Ok 911 users try these out if you wish,after much testing i'm liking these :)

Tyre force:100
Per wheel movement:0.0
Per wheel movement squared:0.0
Wheel pos smoothing:0.5
Deadzone removal range:0.0(but if you have oscillation make it 0.05)
Deadzone removal falloff:0.10

Leave the linkage stuff as is

Relative adjust gain:0.80
Relative adjust bleed:0.10
Relative adjust clamp:0.80
Scoop knee:0.60
Scoop reduction:0.10
Soft clip(half input):5.0
Soft clip(full output):0.0

Much tighter around the centre and better overall feel for the guys that like it heavy,plus it works great wit the current per car settings :) Happy Racing.

Islandlad77
04-07-2015, 11:02
Need some help guys. When I turn on my gt3 wheel, during calibration it spins wildly left to right until I grab the wheel. Any advice would be hugely appreciated.
Steve

Sik180sx
04-07-2015, 11:26
Need some help guys. When I turn on my gt3 wheel, during calibration it spins wildly left to right until I grab the wheel. Any advice would be hugely appreciated.
Steve
Ahh unfortunately that would be your wheel position sensor,does it calibrate at all or just does the spinning thing,it's what my wheel did when the little cog on the back of the ffb motor that drives the position sensor,it had slipped down the shaft and was no longer driving the sensor :( how old is the wheel mate?

Islandlad77
04-07-2015, 12:04
Ahh unfortunately that would be your wheel position sensor,does it calibrate at all or just does the spinning thing,it's what my wheel did when the little cog on the back of the ffb motor that drives the position sensor,it had slipped down the shaft and was no longer driving the sensor :( how old is the wheel mate?

It does calibrate but immediately spins left to right straight afterwards.
Ive had wheel for two months, it had approximately 30 hours use beforehand.
Is the problem repairable ?

Sik180sx
04-07-2015, 14:10
It does calibrate but immediately spins left to right straight afterwards.
Ive had wheel for two months, it had approximately 30 hours use beforehand.
Is the problem repairable ?
My wheel does this when when the dri(drift) setting is to high on the wheel settings themselves

GrimeyDog
04-07-2015, 16:09
Ok 911 users try these out if you wish,after much testing i'm liking these :)

Tyre force:100
Per wheel movement:0.0
Per wheel movement squared:0.0
Wheel pos smoothing:0.5
Deadzone removal range:0.0(but if you have oscillation make it 0.05)
Deadzone removal falloff:0.10

Leave the linkage stuff as is

Relative adjust gain:0.80
Relative adjust bleed:0.10
Relative adjust clamp:0.80
Scoop knee:0.60
Scoop reduction:0.10
Soft clip(half input):5.0
Soft clip(full output):0.0

Much tighter around the centre and better overall feel for the guys that like it heavy,plus it works great wit the current per car settings :) Happy Racing.

This Looks like it will work!!! These Number Look Really Good...What are the in car Settings?

Dirt1Fan
04-07-2015, 17:09
sms will 2.0 fix my gt3rs ..............collecting dust since last update before i actually could race !
Wow that was cool game glitched on race and the violent shaking disappeared and a decent ffb was there . backed out off free practice and restarted race making no changes to setting or wheel what so ever and bam shaking was back too uncontrollable . Best glitch ever

rotcock
04-07-2015, 18:46
It does calibrate but immediately spins left to right straight afterwards.
Ive had wheel for two months, it had approximately 30 hours use beforehand.
Is the problem repairable ?

I've encountered this as well with my 4 year old gt2. Exactly as you described.
I don't know how this was caused. Maybe the drift setting as suggested by Sik180sx.
I've resolved this by reinstalling the latest firmware. RELIEF
Hope this helps !! Give it a try

Sik180sx
04-07-2015, 22:50
This Looks like it will work!!! These Number Look Really Good...What are the in car Settings?
Master scale is at 40
Fx:66
Fy:56
Fz:120
Mz:90 but that one is dependant on heavy you want of course :)

Sop scale at 40
Sop lateral:50
Sop diff:110

Yeah the globals took some fiddling,still not 100% but damn close
Glad you like em Grimey :)

GrimeyDog
05-07-2015, 02:19
Sik180sx you are the GT2, GT3 Wheel Tune Man!!!
I will Stay on the V2 & V1 Wheel Tweeks... We can put our Tweeking together after the Next PCars update and see if we can get a Universal Global FFB Setting... But either way between the 2 of us Tweeking Every 1 should be Happy!!!

ive actually went back and i am Working on a Tweek where the Master FFB is set to 50 and the FFB is Still Very Strong... Im just Fiddling with it until the Next update Drops so i can Fine Tune it....Good Work on your Settings!!!

Redslayer
05-07-2015, 02:40
For the wheel oscillating left to right, on my Fanatec CSR, it will do that on power up if I have my "SPR" setting on anything above -2. -1 and 0 it'll do it every time. But I can just stop it with my hand and it quits, so not sure if that's the same for you.

Redslayer
05-07-2015, 02:42
Sik180sx you are the GT2, GT3 Wheel Tune Man!!!
I will Stay on the V2 & V1 Wheel Tweeks... We can put our Tweeking together after the Next PCars update and see if we can get a Universal FFB Global Setting... But either way between the 2 of us Tweeking Every 1 should be Happy!!!

ive actually went back and i am Working on a Tweek where the Master FFB is set to 50 and the FFB is Still Very Strong... Im just Fiddling with it until the Next update Drops so i can Fine Tune it....Good Work on your Settings!!!

The master FFB doesn't seem to do anything when I changed it lol. I dropped it from 100-50 and felt literally no difference with my CSR. I just use my on-wheel settings, because I don't like the FFB at 100.

Sik180sx
05-07-2015, 03:02
For the wheel oscillating left to right, on my Fanatec CSR, it will do that on power up if I have my "SPR" setting on anything above -2. -1 and 0 it'll do it every time. But I can just stop it with my hand and it quits, so not sure if that's the same for you.
You should have spring set to off,the game will sort that out for you :)
Sik180sx you are the GT2, GT3 Wheel Tune Man!!!
I will Stay on the V2 & V1 Wheel Tweeks... We can put our Tweeking together after the Next PCars update and see if we can get a Universal Global FFB Setting... But either way between the 2 of us Tweeking Every 1 should be Happy!!!

ive actually went back and i am Working on a Tweek where the Master FFB is set to 50 and the FFB is Still Very Strong... Im just Fiddling with it until the Next update Drops so i can Fine Tune it....Good Work on your Settings!!!

Haha cheers Grimey :) i reckon we can do it,i been messing some more with the car settings i posted above,as a baseline for each vehicle i found ripping the fy right out of it and cranking up the mz does wonders i'm now running this with my global settings

Master scale still 40
Fx:66
Fy:48
Fz:126
Mz:116

Sop scale still 40
Sop lateral:40
Sop diff:120

I found starting from there brings all the fine detail out,and by slowly adding Fy forces into the mix,you can get a nice balance between detail and strength :) but like i said cheers mate for giving me the initiative to start fiddling with this stuff instead of just "making do"
:) :) :) :)

gruzzlebeard
05-07-2015, 06:57
Yes, my sig contains my PS4 settings for pCars.

I like the wheel to do what the game/the devs ment it to do. So I like to use as few wheel options as possible. Therefore I am using Dpr: 0, Spr: 0 and Dri 3. Dri 3 is the default = neutral setting according to Fanatec, so I use it meanwhile. Before I was told by some guys at WMD that 3 is the neutral setting I used Dri 0. 3 feels better imho but I had to get used to it after using Dri 0 for quite some time.

Howdy Fong and all Fanatec experts, maybe you can help me with the neutral setting = 3. In my CSWv2 I have no 0 setting anymore. After 1 comes OFF. I thought with OFF it is neutral because the wheel is not intefering anymore. Or does setting "3" mean that the wheel is giving an input in order to neutralize the mechanical drag of the wheel?


Glad to mate :) i'm on ps4
........

Ok now settings on the turbo s are
Sens: off
Ff: 100
Sho: 000
Dri: 3(mine is on 4 but really this is a preferance thing i guess)
Abs: off
......

Did somebody from you guys experiment already with the in-game wheel movement settings instead of DRI Mode of Fanatec wheels. I never liked it on my old GT3 in PS3/GT5 because it didn't feel natural.

But now with my new CSWv2 I like if the wheel is rather heavy but it could also feel a bit thick & dull in tight corners or in chicanes. So I'm looking for the best option to remove a little bit the drag of the wheel.

Currently I'm using:
Per Wheel Movement: -0.05
Per Wheel Movement Squared: 0.05
Wheel Position Smoothing: 0.05

But still I'm fiddling back and forth :confused::Dbased on Remco Van Dijk's FFB Guide (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?29907-Force-Feedback-Guide-for-Project-CARS)where he is recommending the wheel movement in-game settings instead of DRI.

Sik180sx
05-07-2015, 08:59
Howdy Fong and all Fanatec experts, maybe you can help me with the neutral setting = 3. In my CSWv2 I have no 0 setting anymore. After 1 comes OFF. I thought with OFF it is neutral because the wheel is not intefering anymore. Or does setting "3" mean that the wheel is giving an input in order to neutralize the mechanical drag of the wheel?



Did somebody from you guys experiment already with the in-game wheel movement settings instead of DRI Mode of Fanatec wheels. I never liked it on my old GT3 in PS3/GT5 because it didn't feel natural.

But now with my new CSWv2 I like if the wheel is rather heavy but it could also feel a bit thick & dull in tight corners or in chicanes. So I'm looking for the best option to remove a little bit the drag of the wheel.

Currently I'm using:
Per Wheel Movement: -0.05
Per Wheel Movement Squared: 0.05
Wheel Position Smoothing: 0.05

But still I'm fiddling back and forth :confused::Dbased on Remco Van Dijk's FFB Guide (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?29907-Force-Feedback-Guide-for-Project-CARS)where he is recommending the wheel movement in-game settings instead of DRI.
Yeah mate from what i have understood from all my searching is that drift mode 3 is neutral ground,i agree it always felt funny on ps3 but that was due to the fact fanatec wheels emulated logitec drivers,on the ps4 however,fanatec run their own drivers,so in turn alot of the on wheel settings actually do quite like the do on pc,instead of manipulating logitec drivers.
But don't take my word for it lol,thats just what i've understood from research,i may very well be wrong,either way i hope i was of some assistance :)

Kain NL
05-07-2015, 10:51
Yes, my sig contains my PS4 settings for pCars.

I like the wheel to do what the game/the devs ment it to do. So I like to use as few wheel options as possible. Therefore I am using Dpr: 0, Spr: 0 and Dri 3. Dri 3 is the default = neutral setting according to Fanatec, so I use it meanwhile. Before I was told by some guys at WMD that 3 is the neutral setting I used Dri 0. 3 feels better imho but I had to get used to it after using Dri 0 for quite some time.

THANK YOU, you're my personal hero !!! I think hardly nobody knows the 'DRI' 3 is neutral settings. This setting made me INSTANTLY drive a whole lot better !!!

Dean2
06-07-2015, 21:03
I'm just about to order a fanatec CSR just wondering if it works decent with Pcars
Thanks for any advice

Titzon Toast
06-07-2015, 21:54
Ha! I reset my wheel settings and the difference is amazing.
No way am I running tyre force at 100 now.

Kain NL
06-07-2015, 22:19
Yeah...like p1.4...do a FULL wheel reset when you entered the controls menu !!!
Which wheel settings do you use now Titzon ? Spades or Grimeys latest/previous ?

Titzon Toast
06-07-2015, 23:10
Yeah...like p1.4...do a FULL wheel reset when you entered the controls menu !!!
Which wheel settings do you use now Titzon ? Spades or Grimeys latest/previous ?

I used Jack Spade's FY+SOP LAT settings with the tyre force @25 and ffb @80.
It felt absolutely sweet to me.
I also calibrated my wheel @640 degrees of rotation amongst other settings.

Redslayer
06-07-2015, 23:15
You should have spring set to off,the game will sort that out for you :)

I do have it off, but he might not, which would cause his wheel to go left and right over and over lol.

Redslayer
06-07-2015, 23:18
Btw, anyone played enough to know if the FFB loss has been sorted?

Never mind, the answer is now. It's still present. -.- Between that and the stupid "Herp derp you cut the corner even though you slid wide" that pops up right in the middle of the screen, I'm starting to lose my will to play this game. Maybe if the load times we're halved or something, but having to sit through 3 long ass load screens to do one race is getting old as hell.

Edit : Well, it's only happened once. And it appears resetting my wheel no longer crashes the game. So Maybe it'll at least has become a minor occasional nuisance.

Linx
07-07-2015, 06:46
Sik180sx it's been hard trying to keep up with all the threads I'm subscribed to and knowing where I left off. I've been using Grimey's older settings. But being that he's tuning for the CSW and I've got a CSR, I'd like to give your settings a try. Can you please post global and in car settings in one post or refer me to the post if you've done so already please. I would really appreciate it. Thanks

VBR
07-07-2015, 08:35
The game now thinks that my Fanatec GT2 is a Turbo S! It's showing the wrong menu for my wheel.

GrimeyDog
07-07-2015, 08:45
This update was Pretty Good... Im Running 50% FFB and 100% Tire Force and its Really Good on the V2....pretty Much Stock Global settings -Smoothing and Dead Zones and My in car FFB tune.

Sankyo
07-07-2015, 08:47
The game now thinks that my Fanatec GT2 is a Turbo S! It's showing the wrong menu for my wheel.
With the latest firmware on your wheel it should be detected properly.

VBR
07-07-2015, 08:49
With the latest firmware on your wheel it should be detected properly.

My wheel has the latest firmware, 756. It was being detected properly in 1.4, but after I updated to 2.0 it's being detected as a Turbo S. Weird huh!

Sik180sx
07-07-2015, 09:18
Here mate :)
Glad to mate :) i'm on ps4
Ok here goes:
Global settings

Tyre force: 70
Per wheel movement: 0.0
Wheel movement squared: 0.0
Wheel pos smoothing: 0.4
Deadzone removal range: 0.05
Deadzone removal falloff: 0.10
Linkage scale: 0.00
Linkage stiffness: 1.00
Linkage damping: 1.00
Relative adjust gain: 1.10
Relative adjust bleed: 0.15
Relative adjust clamp: 0.95
Scoop knee: 0.70
Scoop reduction: 0.15
Soft clip (half input): 7.00
Soft clip (full output): 10.00

Now in the car settings,i have been using the same base settings for every car and tweaking them in free practice,they work pretty good out the gate but of course you can adjust master scale to your liking

Master scale: 40
Fx scale: 64.01
Fy scale: 64.01
Fz scale: 104.00
Mz scale: 92.00

No smoothing at all,and leave the arm angle where it is until you test drive

Body settings leave as they are

Sop scale: 40
Sop lateral scale: 60
Sop differential: 60
Sop damping: 0.0

Make sure in game force feedback in configuration is set too 100,speed sensitivity,controller filtering sensitivity,damper saturation is at 0 and the advanced tab under the controller input mode is off.

Ok now settings on the turbo s are
Sens: off
Ff: 100
Sho: 000
Dri: 3(mine is on 4 but really this is a preferance thing i guess)
Abs: off
Lin: 000
Dea: 000
Spr: off
Dpr: off
Acl: off

Just make sure your settings are exactly the same as what i've listed above,these setiing feel awesome for me(subjective haha) i get good road feel,weight transfer and weight with no clipping.hope it works as good for you as it does for me Happy Racing.

Sik180sx
07-07-2015, 09:23
Sik180sx it's been hard trying to keep up with all the threads I'm subscribed to and knowing where I left off. I've been using Grimey's older settings. But being that he's tuning for the CSW and I've got a CSR, I'd like to give your settings a try. Can you please post global and in car settings in one post or refer me to the post if you've done so already please. I would really appreciate it. Thanks


You should have spring set to off,the game will sort that out for you :)

Haha cheers Grimey :) i reckon we can do it,i been messing some more with the car settings i posted above,as a baseline for each vehicle i found ripping the fy right out of it and cranking up the mz does wonders i'm now running this with my global settings

Master scale still 40
Fx:66
Fy:48
Fz:126
Mz:116

Sop scale still 40
Sop lateral:40
Sop diff:120

I found starting from there brings all the fine detail out,and by slowly adding Fy forces into the mix,you can get a nice balance between detail and strength :) but like i said cheers mate for giving me the initiative to start fiddling with this stuff instead of just "making do"
:) :) :) :)


Ok 911 users try these out if you wish,after much testing i'm liking these :)

Tyre force:100
Per wheel movement:0.0
Per wheel movement squared:0.0
Wheel pos smoothing:0.5
Deadzone removal range:0.0(but if you have oscillation make it 0.05)
Deadzone removal falloff:0.10

Leave the linkage stuff as is

Relative adjust gain:0.80
Relative adjust bleed:0.10
Relative adjust clamp:0.80
Scoop knee:0.60
Scoop reduction:0.10
Soft clip(half input):5.0
Soft clip(full output):0.0

Much tighter around the centre and better overall feel for the guys that like it heavy,plus it works great wit the current per car settings :) Happy Racing.and heavier settings :)

Linx
07-07-2015, 10:58
Thank you so much Sik180sx

Nono
07-07-2015, 16:25
A question about break rumble on CSW V2, CSP V2 (with Project Cars on PS4) :
If I set the ABS (in the wheel) on "off" (not "0"), did the break rumble is on when tires left the grip ?

Thanks for all your help guys ;o)

Primo79
07-07-2015, 18:19
Here mate :)

Hi Guys,

very good work here and thank you for sharing!

Today i've been trying the Patch 2.0 for the first time and I've just tried the game with the SETTINGS above (Fanatec Gt2 Wheel). It works pretty fine but I found the wheel too miuch "immediate" as I would set the SEN in the wheel at 180 degrees (or so). It feels little bit "unreal" somehow (at least driving a FORMULA C car).
What parameter affect the "immediate" feeling and how I can reduce It?

Thank you very much guys and have a nice evening.

Luxman_
07-07-2015, 19:16
Hi Guys

I have my CSS SQ 1.5 still inverted in iodareis 2.0.

And If I assign the shifter, no more work at the same time as the wheel peds.

So shifter sequencial (front is UP) and (Back is down).

Anyone as this issue?


Fanatec CSW V2

ffb total loss continue random...

And clip some times exit the pits. Workaround (re enter in pits again)

Thank you Guys

Nono
07-07-2015, 20:11
ffb total loss continue random...




Yeah, again and again... It's almost had reason of me this evening, when, for the third time I reset the race, it coming back... So I continue...

Sik180sx
07-07-2015, 20:12
Hi Guys,

very good work here and thank you for sharing!

Today i've been trying the Patch 2.0 for the first time and I've just tried the game with the SETTINGS above (Fanatec Gt2 Wheel). It works pretty fine but I found the wheel too miuch "immediate" as I would set the SEN in the wheel at 180 degrees (or so). It feels little bit "unreal" somehow (at least driving a FORMULA C car).
What parameter affect the "immediate" feeling and how I can reduce It?

Thank you very much guys and have a nice evening.Either you will have to add some sens to your wheel or add some deadzone on the wheel options,ideally sens should be set too off mate :)

Sik180sx
07-07-2015, 20:13
Hi Guys,

very good work here and thank you for sharing!

Today i've been trying the Patch 2.0 for the first time and I've just tried the game with the SETTINGS above (Fanatec Gt2 Wheel). It works pretty fine but I found the wheel too miuch "immediate" as I would set the SEN in the wheel at 180 degrees (or so). It feels little bit "unreal" somehow (at least driving a FORMULA C car).
What parameter affect the "immediate" feeling and how I can reduce It?

Thank you very much guys and have a nice evening.Either you will have to add some sens to your wheel or add some deadzone on the wheel options,ideally sens should be set too off mate :)

mallenium
07-07-2015, 20:59
Setup: Gt2 with CSP v1 pedals, FW 756.

My pedals are not working, only the brakes - somebody else with this issue?
In addition, when I start up the wheel: It wouldnt center, It kicks from the very left to the right?? I have to hold it and put it of center (about 20 degree)...then it stops and I can use pc/ps4 mode...anyone else out there???

Wheel and pedals work just fine on xbox 360 / forza

Jato4x4
08-07-2015, 01:43
I just wanted to say thanks to everyone in this thread. I got my PWTS setup using sik180's settings, and after 2.0 it's working pretty good. I was even able to assign the sequential down as reverse after update. So now I can be really lazy with my flappy paddles, lol.

VRSixness
08-07-2015, 01:59
Setup: Gt2 with CSP v1 pedals, FW 756.

My pedals are not working, only the brakes - somebody else with this issue?
In addition, when I start up the wheel: It wouldnt center, It kicks from the very left to the right?? I have to hold it and put it of center (about 20 degree)...then it stops and I can use pc/ps4 mode...anyone else out there???

Wheel and pedals work just fine on xbox 360 / forza

Thank goodness, someone else with my setup having the same exact problem as me!! I thought something was wrong with my setup! Been racking my brain all day and searching for some one having the same issue!

DEVS - THIS NEEDS AN IMMEDIATE FIX! WORKED FINE BEFORE 2.0 :numbness:

Also, my Porsche Wheel Shifter still doesn't work with the new patch....

Sankyo
08-07-2015, 07:06
Setup: Gt2 with CSP v1 pedals, FW 756.

My pedals are not working, only the brakes - somebody else with this issue?
How are they not working? Only in the game or in general? If in-game, did you assign and then calibrate the pedals?


In addition, when I start up the wheel: It wouldnt center, It kicks from the very left to the right?? I have to hold it and put it of center (about 20 degree)...then it stops and I can use pc/ps4 mode...anyone else out there???
That sounds weird. Does it also do that when you start the wheel disconnected from the PS4 and no pedals connected to it?

Sankyo
08-07-2015, 07:07
Thank goodness, someone else with my setup having the same exact problem as me!! I thought something was wrong with my setup! Been racking my brain all day and searching for some one having the same issue!

DEVS - THIS NEEDS AN IMMEDIATE FIX! WORKED FINE BEFORE 2.0 :numbness:

Also, my Porsche Wheel Shifter still doesn't work with the new patch....
Everyone, if you report that something doesn't work, please also mention whether you reset your controller settings, re-assigned pedals/buttons/shifter, recalibrated wheel/pedals etc.

mallenium
08-07-2015, 10:50
@Remco: Not working = there is no input for clutch and gas pedal.
When I go to - calibrate the pedals, only the brake pedal is working proberly

I reseted all the wheel setiings.
In addition I unplugged the pedals and plugged it back in - no change
I also turned the wheel off / on and restarted the game several times - no change

Sankyo
08-07-2015, 10:54
@Remco: Not working = there is no input for clutch and gas pedal.
When I go to - calibrate the pedals, only the brake pedal is working proberly

I reseted all the wheel setiings.
In addition I unplugged the pedals and plugged it back in - no change
I also turned the wheel off / on and restarted the game several times - no change
Did you try to assign the pedals first (Edit tab in Controls)?

Also make sure that you press the throttle and clutch pedals all the way down first before assigning and calibrating.

VRSixness
08-07-2015, 13:20
My gas and clutch now work. I uninstalled the game from my PS4 and added the new patch just for kicks.
I reset all the settings and calibrated and had the same problem initially. I then tried the controller and had the same issue...no clutch, no throttle. Now I realized something is not right. I've been trying to run California Highway Full in a Caterham Classic, I tried running at Bugatti circuit and it worked (pit start). I then went to Catalunya, I realized I wasn't starting the engine...once I hit R2, the car came to life. So I feel a little silly at this point. Although I go back to California highway and it won't start...not sure why but it seems to be track specific.

I really would like my shifter to work...is anyone else using the older Porsche Wheel Set Shifter (pre-Clubsport shifter)? I'm not really looking to purchase another shifter but if the one I have is not supported...I guess I have no choice.

GrimGrnninGhost
08-07-2015, 15:26
Anyone else having issues with the game still crashing if you have to disconnect the wheel (csr) since 2.0 release? I can turn off the power but when I turn it back on and enter PC mode, it crashes. Am I doing something wrong? What is the proper sequence?

Thanks

rotcock
08-07-2015, 15:57
I really would like my shifter to work...is anyone else using the older Porsche Wheel Set Shifter (pre-Clubsport shifter)? I'm not really looking to purchase another shifter but if the one I have is not supported...I guess I have no choice.

I'm using my csr shifter set. Worked like a charm from day 1. PCars release day that is.
211135

VRSixness
08-07-2015, 16:22
Mine are the ones that came out prior to those...PW SS, all ABS plastic...just want to know if its supported or if I'm doing something wrong. In the edit configuration page, it shows all 6 gears mapped to all 6 positions but I can't re-assign if I try or use them on track.