PDA

View Full Version : [PS4] Fanatec hardware discussion thread



Pages : 1 2 3 4 5 [6] 7 8 9 10 11

Primo79
08-07-2015, 17:00
Either you will have to add some sens to your wheel or add some deadzone on the wheel options,ideally sens should be set too off mate :)

Hi Sik,

My sensitivity in the Wheel settings is already OFF. It feels weird having such "immediate" feeling. What value do you change in Project cars settings to lower this feeling?

Thank you.

Sik180sx
08-07-2015, 21:20
Hi Sik,

My sensitivity in the Wheel settings is already OFF. It feels weird having such "immediate" feeling. What value do you change in Project cars settings to lower this feeling?

Thank you. oh sorry primo79,i must have misunderstood your previous post :/ mate i'm pretty sure the setting called Deadzone Removal range will take care of that,i'm sure the more you increase that,the softer it gets around the centre :)

Luxman_
09-07-2015, 00:00
Anyone else having issues with the game still crashing if you have to disconnect the wheel (csr) since 2.0 release? I can turn off the power but when I turn it back on and enter PC mode, it crashes. Am I doing something wrong? What is the proper sequence?

Thanks


Yes in my CSW V2 if i power off and on, the game give me the error on update 1.4. ��

Primo79
09-07-2015, 00:17
oh sorry primo79,i must have misunderstood your previous post :/ mate i'm pretty sure the setting called Deadzone Removal range will take care of that,i'm sure the more you increase that,the softer it gets around the centre :)

Yeah! :) no problem mate.

I'll have a try tomorrow.

Thank you very much for your patience ;)

Primo79
09-07-2015, 00:18
Same here with GT2 and game crash when turning off the wheel.

Erico Stefanni
09-07-2015, 00:56
I have a CSW v1, what better setting for the Pcars?I did not like the default settings

scrums
09-07-2015, 01:15
You should have spring set to off,the game will sort that out for you :)

Haha cheers Grimey :) i reckon we can do it,i been messing some more with the car settings i posted above,as a baseline for each vehicle i found ripping the fy right out of it and cranking up the mz does wonders i'm now running this with my global settings

Master scale still 40
Fx:66
Fy:48
Fz:126
Mz:116

Sop scale still 40
Sop lateral:40
Sop diff:120

I found starting from there brings all the fine detail out,and by slowly adding Fy forces into the mix,you can get a nice balance between detail and strength :) but like i said cheers mate for giving me the initiative to start fiddling with this stuff instead of just "making do"
:) :) :) :)

Congrats Sik + Grimey, you've finally made this game feel proper for me. I'm using a GT2 after patch 2.0 and its the first time since release that this game has made sense to me. The soft clipping settings were what I've always been lacking I think. These settings should really be the default for GT2 wheels and others from this fanatec family. I cant believe that the devteam knows how differently each of these wheels behaves and still starts us out with the same defaults regardless of which wheel is detected. I'm still lobbying for FFB profiles that can quickly be set for every car and every track because fixing each car one-by-one is too much work for something that should be fun.

Btw, my wheel is being recognized as a Fanatec Turbo S GT2, whatever that is, and the pic of the wheel is of the shape of the turbo S, not my GT2's shape. Also occasionally I still enter free practice sessions with no force feedback at all. I have to restart the session entirely from main menu to get it to 'kick in'.

scrums
09-07-2015, 01:16
Oh and yes I'm having the same crash issue when i power off and power on the wheel. This was supposed to have been fixed in patch 2.0 right? I still send the video clip and report the crash each time so hopefully they are back working on it again.

scrums
09-07-2015, 02:17
omg the ginetta is actually fun to drive now that i can feel the road beneath me.

Sik180sx
09-07-2015, 02:17
Congrats Sik + Grimey, you've finally made this game feel proper for me. I'm using a GT2 after patch 2.0 and its the first time since release that this game has made sense to me. The soft clipping settings were what I've always been lacking I think. These settings should really be the default for GT2 wheels and others from this fanatec family. I cant believe that the devteam knows how differently each of these wheels behaves and still starts us out with the same defaults regardless of which wheel is detected. I'm still lobbying for FFB profiles that can quickly be set for every car and every track because fixing each car one-by-one is too much work for something that should be fun.

Btw, my wheel is being recognized as a Fanatec Turbo S GT2, whatever that is, and the pic of the wheel is of the shape of the turbo S, not my GT2's shape. Also occasionally I still enter free practice sessions with no force feedback at all. I have to restart the session entirely from main menu to get it to 'kick in'.Just happy to help fellow fanatec users buddy :) yeah the soft clipping is the important part with our wheels,if we were running direct drives or csw v2 and a lot of the "higher end" wheels,where the motors are good enough to decipher torque values across a large range,not saying our wheels are bad,just that the range of forces they pick up on is not as good,and those cliiping values compress the force so it is usable by our wheels.
Oh and the FFB dropping randomly is a bug(and quite annoying at that) which will hopefully get sorted very SMSoon haha.

mallenium
09-07-2015, 19:55
Did you try to assign the pedals first (Edit tab in Controls)?

Also make sure that you press the throttle and clutch pedals all the way down first before assigning and calibrating.

Thanks Remco, but there is no way that I can calibrate OR assign the CSP V1 Gas / Clutch pedals.
I also tried reflashing the FW 756, but it still doens't work.

rocafella1978
09-07-2015, 20:49
are the Clubsport V1 Pedals, Clubsport V2 Pedals and Clubsport V3 Pedals compatible with PS4 along with CSW V1 and CSW V2 whichever way one combines them?

GrimGrnninGhost
10-07-2015, 00:16
Anyone else having issues with the game still crashing if you have to disconnect the wheel (csr) since 2.0 release? I can turn off the power but when I turn it back on and enter PC mode, it crashes. Am I doing something wrong? What is the proper sequence?

Thanks


Yes in my CSW V2 if i power off and on, the game give me the error on update 1.4. ��


Same here with GT2 and game crash when turning off the wheel.


Oh and yes I'm having the same crash issue when i power off and power on the wheel. This was supposed to have been fixed in patch 2.0 right? I still send the video clip and report the crash each time so hopefully they are back working on it again.

So I wonder if SMS will acknowledge that this is not fixed for some of the Fanatec wheels?

Jato4x4
10-07-2015, 04:26
So I wonder if SMS will acknowledge that this is not fixed for some of the Fanatec wheels?

I'm having the error as well. PWTS.

-Brick_Top-
10-07-2015, 05:37
are the Clubsport V1 Pedals, Clubsport V2 Pedals and Clubsport V3 Pedals compatible with PS4 along with CSW V1 and CSW V2 whichever way one combines them?

Csw v2 and csp v2 working fine for me.
Csp v3 on order but not due till end of August

flatspunout
10-07-2015, 05:52
Thanks Remco, but there is no way that I can calibrate OR assign the CSP V1 Gas / Clutch pedals.
I also tried reflashing the FW 756, but it still doens't work.

I haven't followed every page of the thread, but the last I read was that calibrating clubsport pedals with a CSR wheel disabled some or all of the pedals. I haven't attempted it so I can't verify. If I try to map my CSR sequential shifter it shows up as two of the "shift" buttons instead of L1 L2. Have a new issue since 2.0 where the wheel will not connect (no n on the display, blank) after power cycling and I am stuck on the "controller disconnected" popup screen.

mallenium
10-07-2015, 07:38
I haven't followed every page of the thread, but the last I read was that calibrating clubsport pedals with a CSR wheel disabled some or all of the pedals. I haven't attempted it so I can't verify. If I try to map my CSR sequential shifter it shows up as two of the "shift" buttons instead of L1 L2. Have a new issue since 2.0 where the wheel will not connect (no n on the display, blank) after power cycling and I am stuck on the "controller disconnected" popup screen.
It seems like the older fanatec wheels are still not compatible with project cars, at least for ps4.

Even when reseting all the settings and not calibrating the pedals, there is no input from clutch / gas pedal....the worst thing, now it doesnt work on other games, caused by project cars.

Here is a member who experienced a similar issue
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?34192-Fanatec-GT2-amp-Patch-2-0-Wheel-Not-Working-SOLVED
Unfortunately the workaround doesn't work for the CSP V1 pedals
As far as I can tell it is a GT2 issue only (have not read about the CSR yet, but it's hard to follow over 100 pages of project cars fanatec issues)

Sankyo
10-07-2015, 08:30
It seems like the older fanatec wheels are still not compatible with project cars, at least for ps4.

Even when reseting all the settings and not calibrating the pedals, there is no input from clutch / gas pedal....the worst thing, now it doesnt work on other games, caused by project cars.

Here is a member who experienced a similar issue
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?34192-Fanatec-GT2-amp-Patch-2-0-Wheel-Not-Working-SOLVED
Unfortunately the workaround doesn't work for the CSP V1 pedals
As far as I can tell it is a GT2 issue only (have not read about the CSR yet, but it's hard to follow over 100 pages of project cars fanatec issues)

There's no way that pCARS can make pedals malfunction in other games. Did you check on a PC to see whether the pedals are working?

Sankyo
10-07-2015, 08:31
So I wonder if SMS will acknowledge that this is not fixed for some of the Fanatec wheels?
Are you on patch 2.0? It was an issue with 1.4, but should be solved with 2.0.

James Boulton
10-07-2015, 08:38
Even when reseting all the settings and not calibrating the pedals, there is no input from clutch / gas pedal....the worst thing, now it doesnt work on other games, caused by project cars.

This is what's known as a "hardware problem". I suggest you make sure the cable connecting the pedals and the base unit is correctly connected.

Fong74
10-07-2015, 08:38
Are you on patch 2.0? It was an issue with 1.4, but should be solved with 2.0.

No crashes occur with v2.0 on PS4 anymore when you have to restart a wheel, because the FFb is gone e.g.

Fong74
10-07-2015, 08:45
As we had the topic in the lobby yesterday again...

What is the status on the brake pedal vibration with the CSPs? It was present once (really, only in one session, Im not the only one who experienced this) after firmware 094 came out and patch v1.4 was installed. It was present the first time the game was launched after the update. After that it was gone and never showed up again.

All the guys who had the chance to experience it were amazed how good it was in terms of feedback. With the CSP v3 coming which will also have a vibration device on the throttle, the whole issue will get even more important to the CSP users imho.

Any update on that issue would be highly appreciated. Thanks! :angel:

mallenium
10-07-2015, 09:04
There's no way that pCARS can make pedals malfunction in other games. Did you check on a PC to see whether the pedals are working?

Yes I did, unfortunately there are not working on PC either.
I just think it's strange....I played forza4 on the same day, then swapped to project cars 1.4 - it worked! When the download of patch 2.0 was finished I restarted the game.
I reseted my in game controller settings and suddendly clutch / gas gets no input at all, but the brake pedals works as usual....
So It shoudn't be an connection issue (I didn't move my playseat nor the ps4).

Anyhow, I reconnected all devices after that issues, even switched the usb port on the ps4...no change.

Sankyo
10-07-2015, 09:18
Yes I did, unfortunately there are not working on PC either.
I just think it's strange....I played forza4 on the same day, then swapped to project cars 1.4 - it worked! When the download of patch 2.0 was finished I restarted the game.
I reseted my in game controller settings and suddendly clutch / gas gets no input at all, but the brake pedals works as usual....
So It shoudn't be an connection issue (I didn't move my playseat nor the ps4).

Anyhow, I reconnected all devices after that issues, even switched the usb port on the ps4...no change.
It does sound like a coincidental hardware failure. Best thing to do before contacting Fanatec Support is to connect it to PC via USB and see if the pedals work or not. If not, re-seat the clutch and throttle connectors on the main PCB. If that doesn't help, make sure that the throttle and clutch sensors are clean and free of dust and dirt.

If all of the above doesn't solve the issue, you should contact Fanatec Support.

mallenium
10-07-2015, 09:43
Thanks for your help remco, in addition I will change the cable between wheel / pedals.
I still got a feeling that it has something to do with the patch, mainly because member "
"VRSixness" (see post 1242) has the same issue since patch 2.0.
...I know, it sounds like a typical hardware issue.

James Boulton
10-07-2015, 11:21
As we had the topic in the lobby yesterday again...

What is the status on the brake pedal vibration with the CSPs? It was present once (really, only in one session, Im not the only one who experienced this) after firmware 094 came out and patch v1.4 was installed. It was present the first time the game was launched after the update. After that it was gone and never showed up again.

I've just tested with CSWv2 and CSPv2 and it works fine? I have latest beta firmware here, also tested with 93.

GrimeyDog
10-07-2015, 11:56
The ABS rumble is sooo faint it might as well Not be there.

James Boulton
10-07-2015, 11:58
The ABS rumble is sooo faint it might as well Not be there.

Well, that's the vibration motor on at 100%. So, it is working then?

Fong74
10-07-2015, 12:02
That would be really great! But none of the CSWv2/CSPv2 users I know has the vibration on the PS4 atm...

Grimey? Does it work with your HW-setup?

Sankyo
10-07-2015, 12:05
The ABS rumble is sooo faint it might as well Not be there.


Well, that's the vibration motor on at 100%. So, it is working then?

Yeah, you can't blame SMS for the hardware design being too solid :)

James Boulton
10-07-2015, 12:13
That would be really great! But none of the CSWv2/CSPv2 users I know has the vibration on the PS4 atm...

Grimey? Does it work with your HW-setup?

I dont think I can set my hardware up any different -- I have CSWv2 with CSPv2 attached to the base. CSWv2 is attached to PS4. It all works fine? If its not working try checking it on the PC and see the actual rumble motor is working.

GrimGrnninGhost
10-07-2015, 13:02
Are you on patch 2.0? It was an issue with 1.4, but should be solved with 2.0.

Version 2.0.

Luxman_
10-07-2015, 14:57
Are you on patch 2.0? It was an issue with 1.4, but should be solved with 2.0.

No Remco, it continues give the error in 2.0

Power off/Power on = error and the game closes :(

Luxman_
10-07-2015, 15:12
Here is one clip I made today to confirme the error still continue in 2.0

http://youtu.be/Jjkm8SYkHvw

Jato4x4
10-07-2015, 15:18
No Remco, it continues give the error in 2.0

Power off/Power on = error and the game closes :(

Yeah, I'm on 2.0 and it still crashes if I turn wheel off and on.

Freak66
10-07-2015, 15:36
This is what's known as a "hardware problem". I suggest you make sure the cable connecting the pedals and the base unit is correctly connected.

James, all my PS4-buddies with fanatec wheels and myself still have complete loss of FFB sometimes.
Why is that?
As its not always, does it depend on choosen track, car, lobby setup,...?

We know the work arounds, but they cause other troubles as we see (and slowly but surely are really annoying)
Lot of people were hoping, that this was solved with patch 2.0 ...

A new bug since patch 2.0 is, that you need double angle of wheel turn for a full tire lock.
It starts right after track loading screen and has the same work arounds like loss of FFB (to adapt SEN on the wheel results in a wobbly feel, so no solution)

P.S.: we all made a full reset in controller menu after patch 2.0 and have the latest fanatec FW installed

GrimeyDog
10-07-2015, 16:14
Yeah, you can't blame SMS for the hardware design being too solid :)

Naaa... Thats Just PCars it is like that with... Every other game and on PC the Rumble is Very Noticable.

GrimeyDog
10-07-2015, 18:59
Well, that's the vibration motor on at 100%. So, it is working then?

Nope... The ABS Rumble is Very Weak... Its soo Faint that i can Hardly Feel it... GT6 ABS Rumble Feels like a Earth Quake Compaired to PCars ABS Rumble.

in sure that the ABS Motor is working also because it works on PC ,GT6 ETC.

Titzon Toast
10-07-2015, 19:20
Nope... The ABS Rumble is Very Weak... Its soo Faint that i can Hardly Feel it... GT6 ABS Rumble Feels like a Earth Quake Compaired to PCars ABS Rumble.

in sure that the ABS Motor is working also because it works on PC ,GT6 ETC.

Yep, I can vouch for this too. My ABS rumble is very weak on CSP's.

Jazzcat007
10-07-2015, 20:12
Has anyone figured out a good setup for the standard CSR? I have a CSWv2 on the way at the end of the month but I haven't been able to find a good setup for the CSR in the interim.

GrimeyDog
11-07-2015, 00:04
When my wheel Randomly Looses All FFB i back out of the Race to the MAIN Menu Screen and Reload the Race and the FFB usually Comes Back when the Race Loads the Race back up... If it Doesnt then Back out to the Main Menu again and Power the wheel Off and on again and the FFB comes back and i Dont get the Error Message. it seems to me that the FFB drops because it doesn't Load Right also PCars Controles the DOR so when you power the wheel off and on During a Race PCars Cant load the DOR correctly to the wheel so you get the Error Message... Thats Not Confirmed by SMS but thats what i believe causes the Error Message. The Suck Part is if your 3/4 complete with a Long Race you Loose all your Progress.

Fong74
11-07-2015, 06:52
I dont think I can set my hardware up any different -- I have CSWv2 with CSPv2 attached to the base. CSWv2 is attached to PS4. It all works fine? If its not working try checking it on the PC and see the actual rumble motor is working.

I checked the rumble function with the PC driver test tool. Its there and its powerfull as ever (like with the generic ABS rumble that worked for the last years and with all games). So no HW issue here.

Just to be 100% sure:
"It all works fine?"
Im irritated by the question mark a bit, but understand, that with your system/set-up all works fine. Correct?

Grimey and others stated, the rumble is there but very weak.

I swear I had it once and as strong as ever (but dynamically triggered by the game). Thats the same the experience of five other CSW/CSP v2 users I know.


So the question is, what is diferent with our setups or what are we doing differently from you guys? Ill try the other USB port. Ill try to turn the wheel on while in pCars first screen. Play with assists options ABS on/off/realistic. Thats what comes to my mind atm...

Ill keep you updated tomorrow, as I wont be able to test this before Sunday.

Redslayer
11-07-2015, 07:25
Has anyone figured out a good setup for the standard CSR? I have a CSWv2 on the way at the end of the month but I haven't been able to find a good setup for the CSR in the interim.

Every set up I've tried has had some kind of negative effect. Beit the wheel trying to full lock left or right on the starting grid, or just being a jittery mess on straights.

Best thing I've found to do is adjust the FFB in the cars setup menu and leave the base settings alone.

I've been using this across all cars :

Master scale: 40
Fx scale: 64.01
Fy scale: 64.01
Fz scale: 104.00
Mz scale: 92.00

No smoothing at all,and leave the arm angle where it is until you test drive

Body settings leave as they are

Sop scale: 40
Sop lateral scale: 60
Sop differential: 60
Sop damping: 0.0

--- And it feels alright to me for most cars.

vallist
11-07-2015, 08:50
Has anyone figured out a good setup for the standard CSR? I have a CSWv2 on the way at the end of the month but I haven't been able to find a good setup for the CSR in the interim.

Try this (CSR, CSPv2, CSR Shifter set):
Wheel setup: Sen OFF | FF 100 | Sho 100 | Dri 3 or OFF | | Abs OFF | Lin 000 | Dea 000 | Spr OFF | Dpr OFF | ACL OFF

in-game:
Controls... conf...: All deadzones 0 or Default; All sensitivities 50 (48) or Default; Force Feedback 100; Advanced OFF or Default; all others Default

Controls... calibrate FFB...: Tire force 22-28; all others Default

Car setup:
FFB: Fx smoothing 0 or Default, all others Default

GrimeyDog
11-07-2015, 23:46
after update 2.0 i Run Tire Force at 98 and 24 on the Game FFB Master!!! The Feel is Great... Im going to post a Video of My Telemetry!!! I Can Feel Every thing Even Tire Chatter Right before i Loose Grip!!! Im Still using My Same in Car FFB settings.

Basicly i find that Setting the Global FFB setting Higher than 24 you dont really gain any FFB Power but you loose a lot of Fidelity and cant feel all the Subtle FFB Effects.

https://youtu.be/adblSey1NLA

I Can Feel Every Tire Slide Before it Happens... Check out the telemetry... No FFB Clipping at All.... Sorry for the video Quality... LOL

Erwin Berkers
12-07-2015, 16:05
Quick update after patch 2.0:

After this rainy Sunday I had quite some time with the wheel, not once a loss of force feedback. I have mainly been in Free and Solo mode (not Online or Career).

Once I experienced a Controller disconnected, where the game ended up in the pause menu. I could power off the wheel, power on, and resume the race. Not ideal, but since the game didn’t crash the inconvenience was minor.

No issues with ABS rumble, strong as in other games, I paid extra attention to this although this issue was never reported for the Turbo S CSP v1 combo if I remember correct, just report the status for my setup.

In summary, no real issues with the wheel.

Fong74
12-07-2015, 17:20
Is the FFb rumble dynamic (calculated by the game) with the TurboS, or generic according to the ABS setting on the wheel?

Titzon Toast
12-07-2015, 18:07
Is the FFb rumble dynamic (calculated by the game) with the TurboS, or generic according to the ABS setting on the wheel?

According to my pal who's a Fanatec expert, it's calculated by the wheel itself, not the game.
He couldn't understand why my ABS rumble was gone weak.

GrimeyDog
12-07-2015, 19:38
According to my pal who's a Fanatec expert, it's calculated by the wheel itself, not the game.
He couldn't understand why my ABS rumble was gone weak.

The ABS Rumble is weak in this case due to Game Programming... Its Programmed to Cut on whennyour wheels Lock up... Stomp the Brake and Force your wheels to Lock up... its there just Very Faint. They Need to turn the Value for ABS up like they Do for the FFB setting... Maybe even just put in a ABS FFB Slider like they Have for everything else and let the user Dial in the Preffered ABS Rumble Strength.

GrimGrnninGhost
13-07-2015, 03:22
When my wheel Randomly Looses All FFB i back out of the Race to the MAIN Menu Screen and Reload the Race and the FFB usually Comes Back when the Race Loads the Race back up... If it Doesnt then Back out to the Main Menu again and Power the wheel Off and on again and the FFB comes back and i Dont get the Error Message. it seems to me that the FFB drops because it doesn't Load Right also PCars Controles the DOR so when you power the wheel off and on During a Race PCars Cant load the DOR correctly to the wheel so you get the Error Message... Thats Not Confirmed by SMS but thats what i believe causes the Error Message. The Suck Part is if your 3/4 complete with a Long Race you Loose all your Progress.

Is this the only option to bring back the FFB? Leaving an online lobby to reset your wheel when your the host is not really ideal. Would be great if you could power cycle the wheel while on the track without the game crashing would be great. Thanks for any suggestions you may have

dresified
13-07-2015, 04:58
Since the 2.0 patch I have been seeing a bug with my CSW v1.
If I restart a race a few times some of the games FFB settings begin to clip.
Specifically the lateral and vertical suspension movement.
This makes the whole wheel rattle and oscillate violently when you turn hard or hit any bumps.

minimum number of restarts required to reproduce = 1
maximum number of restarts required to reproduce = unknown

Anyone else seeing this issue?

Sankyo
13-07-2015, 06:05
Since the 2.0 patch I have been seeing a bug with my CSW v1.
If I restart a race a few times some of the games FFB settings begin to clip.
Specifically the lateral and vertical suspension movement.
This makes the whole wheel rattle and oscillate violently when you turn hard or hit any bumps.

minimum number of restarts required to reproduce = 1
maximum number of restarts required to reproduce = unknown

Anyone else seeing this issue?

Could you record this in a video?

GrimeyDog
13-07-2015, 08:45
its the Only option i know of at this point. Hopefully they will fix the Loss off FFB issue soon.

GrimeyDog
13-07-2015, 10:16
i Made a better Video that Shows the Telemetry Better... Im Driving the Ford Escort and just slamming it into Corners to Force the Tires to Loose Grip... I Can Feel Clearly Feels Tire Chatter vs Rumble Strips... Watch the Telemetry and Listen for the Skidding Sound... You will See the Clear Diff between Loss of Grip and Rumble Strips
https://youtu.be/A1KkaheVNEk

This is a New Global FFB and Relative adjust Bleed Setting that in Testing with my old in Car FFB settings. So Far its working well... I used Front wheel Dtivenbecause its easy to get the front wheels to Slip and test the feel of Small Forces like Tire Chatter.... I get the Same Results with RWD Cars just Not as Much Chatter.

Edit: its a Ford Focus... LOL

Luxman_
13-07-2015, 21:16
Could you record this in a video?

Remco I have the same issue with CSW V2.

I reported here the loss of ffb and this cliping on lateral suspencion (workaround) = go to pit a restart race.

this issue come with 1.4 for me.

Linx
14-07-2015, 06:01
Sik180sx I finally tried your settings. I like it for the fact that I can now counter steer when the car oversteers as before I had no chance and would just have to let the car spin out. But everything is a little too lite for my taste. I tried the settings you posted (#1231) then tried the ones you posted a little further down for the Porsche wheel. I'd like the steering to be a little heavier. Also rumble strips and bumps are very lightly felt. I set the global FFB to 100 and my wheel FFB to 100. Is there anything you can recommend I do?

Sik180sx
14-07-2015, 06:40
Sik180sx I finally tried your settings. I like it for the fact that I can now counter steer when the car oversteers as before I had no chance and would just have to let the car spin out. But everything is a little too lite for my taste. I tried the settings you posted (#1231) then tried the ones you posted a little further down for the Porsche wheel. I'd like the steering to be a little heavier. Also rumble strips and bumps are very lightly felt. I set the global FFB to 100 and my wheel FFB to 100. Is there anything you can recommend I do?
On the in car settings mate you can turn up the Fy(lateral loads or side forces) and Fz(vertical loads or bump forces)tuning options,try increasing those and see what you think,also in the SoP settings make SoP lateral match your Fy settings and SoP differential match your Fz settings,or at least as close as you can get them.

GrimeyDog
14-07-2015, 12:28
Sik180sx I finally tried your settings. I like it for the fact that I can now counter steer when the car oversteers as before I had no chance and would just have to let the car spin out. But everything is a little too lite for my taste. I tried the settings you posted (#1231) then tried the ones you posted a little further down for the Porsche wheel. I'd like the steering to be a little heavier. Also rumble strips and bumps are very lightly felt. I set the global FFB to 100 and my wheel FFB to 100. Is there anything you can recommend I do?

You Cant use 100% in Game FFB and Not Get Clipping!!! I use the V2 and i use No where Near 100%In Game FFB after the 2.0 update.

Set your in Game FFB to 24 and Set your in Car Masters to 100. turn your in car Masters down until the Clipping stops.... There are Many Many ways to Get the same result but 100% in Game FFB is Not 1 of them.
if you turn the in Game FFB down that lets you run Tire Force at 100 and thats whats Most important... The Tire Force Give you the Wheel Weight... also Try a Higher Relative adjust Bleed but Keep it below 30... That Bleeds off Wheel Weight to Create Road, Loss of Grip and Weight Transfer feel.... Im at work so i dont Know my exact settings.

Sik180sx
14-07-2015, 13:55
You Cant use 100% in Game FFB and Not Get Clipping!!! I use the V2 and i use No where Near 100%In Game FFB after the 2.0 update.

Set your in Game FFB to 24 and Set your in Car Masters to 100. turn your in car Masters down until the Clipping stops.... There are Many Many ways to Get the same result but 100% in Game FFB is Not 1 of them.
if you turn the in Game FFB down that lets you run Tire Force at 100 and thats whats Most important... The Tire Force Give you the Wheel Weight... also Try a Higher Relative adjust Bleed but Keep it below 30... That Bleeds off Wheel Weight to Create Road, Loss of Grip and Weight Transfer feel.... Im at work so i dont Know my exact settings.I'm messing around with some settings since yesterday and i'm running 82 TF 100 in game ffb and 100 master scale and i get no clipping?

Sankyo
14-07-2015, 13:59
You Cant use 100% in Game FFB and Not Get Clipping!!!
Please be exact with your terminology. You can have 100% global FFB setting with no clipping easily. The global FFB setting does not determine clipping, but the overal FFB power output after the actual forces have been calculated.

The tyre force value and the car-specific spindle values determine whether FFB clips or not. When FFB is clipping, turning global FFB down won't remove the clipping, just have a look at the FFB meter.

Fong74
14-07-2015, 14:22
I'm messing around with some settings since yesterday and i'm running 82 TF 100 in game ffb and 100 master scale and i get no clipping?

Sounds completely feasible to me.

Im running

FFB/TF: 100/100 | Car-FFb, Master Scale: 34, Scale Fx/Fy/Fz: 106/102/104

on PS4 and get only very small clipping effects, which I do not notice while driving tbh.

With Master Scale turned down to values below 34 (default is 24) together with the rest of the above values, there is no clipping at all.

GrimeyDog
14-07-2015, 15:34
Remco Van Dijk said "Please be exact with your terminology. You can have 100% global FFB setting with no clipping easily. The global FFB setting does not determine clipping, but the overal FFB power output after the actual forces have been calculated.

The tyre force value and the car-specific spindle values determine whether FFB clips or not. When FFB is clipping, turning global FFB down won't remove the clipping, just have a look at the FFB met"

I Dis agree...Remco Van Dijk How Many Hours do you have Tweeking PS4 PCars FFB ? I have probly over 100hrs by now.


https://youtu.be/A1KkaheVNEk

Yup Ok No Problem i dont Need or want any More infractions...But it is My opinion that you can Not Run your Global FFB at 100 because you are Not Leaving Room for Any other Forces to be added without causing Clipping. It is My opinion if the FFB was set Propperly at PCars Launch or there was even a Official PCars FFB tuning guide this thread would Not Exist.

I do think that the Tune your Own FFB is a Great Idea but there Should Have been a set FFB tuning Base point for each wheel.

Take a Look at the Video i Posted i have a Formula that Give Great wheel Strength and accurate FFB The FFB is Even Accurate to the Camra Shake...LOL!!!

SMS Did a Great Job with PCars the only Problem is Most People Dont have Time, Patience or the know how to tweek propperly without a detailed instruction guide... That has Not been Provided.

There are 2 Global FFB Paramiters 1)Tire Force I believe that Controles wheel weight.
2) FFB Level i believe that controles the Forces IE: Curbs bumps etc

Then there are 4 in car settings that bring out the Forces you want to Feel in your wheel I only use Master Scale and SOP with Great Results.

Check the Video i Posted No Clipping!!! after update 2.0 I use No where Near 100 Global FFB... My Global is below 30 and the Tire Force is 98 and FFB Effects are Really Strong. I set the wheel at 100% FFB so the wheel is as strong as it Naturally Can Be.... You Can Not use Higher Global FFB to Make your wheel Stringer than it was Built to be without Causing Clipping or Damage to your wheel in the long run. JMO

Linx
14-07-2015, 15:45
I'm gonna try that tonight Sik180sx. Being that I didn't see your reply until this morning I had reverted back to Grimey's original settings since that's what I've been playing with and used to. Funny thing, Grimey, for some reason your original settings feel better to me then your newest one. Only complaint would be counter steering cuz as soon as I'm in the situation, the wheel doesnt have any dynamic besides being really heavy to the point I'm afraid it'll break if I put enough force in while counter steering. But the only different thing I'm doing in your original settings is turning my wheels FFB down to 70-80. I'm gonna try what you recommended when I get home tonight @ Sik180sx. I'm using a regular CSR and trying to determine which of you guys settings work the best for it.

GrimeyDog
14-07-2015, 16:07
I Havent Posted the 1 im using Now after 2.0 update... It is Much Much Better With More Feel to it. I will Get them to you when i get Home from work... Due to the Much Lower Global Setting it Should be Much More Friendly to wheels other than the V2... You May have to Reduce Tire force if your Not using a V2.
I can Even get the F1 cars to Drive Good without Wheel Oscillation!!!

In Car settings are Mostly the Same but Global FFB, Tire Force and Relative adjust bleed are Different.

GrimeyDog
14-07-2015, 16:22
I'm gonna try that tonight Sik180sx. Being that I didn't see your reply until this morning I had reverted back to Grimey's original settings since that's what I've been playing with and used to. Funny thing, Grimey, for some reason your original settings feel better to me then your newest one. Only complaint would be counter steering cuz as soon as I'm in the situation, the wheel doesnt have any dynamic besides being really heavy to the point I'm afraid it'll break if I put enough force in while counter steering. But the only different thing I'm doing in your original settings is turning my wheels FFB down to 70-80. I'm gonna try what you recommended when I get home tonight @ Sik180sx. I'm using a regular CSR and trying to determine which of you guys settings work the best for it.

Look at the Video Telemetry i used front wheel drive because its easy to get the Tires Squeeling in a Corner... The Wheel is Really Fighting Me Hard but Not a Straight Line in any Corner!!! I Can Feel Every Slip Slide and Sqeel of the Tires then watch How the Telemetry Changes while the Tires are Squeeling and i Hit the Rumble Strips... You can Feel Every Bit of that in the wheel... I get the same results with RWD Cars also but the FWD Cars Show it on the Telemetry More.... I Have Not Done any Suspension work on any of the Cars thats all FFB Tweek showing on the Telemetry.

When i was using High Global FFB i Could Not Get the Telemetry to Read Like that... The FFB was Good But Very Harsh... After Update 2.0 i get Very Strong FFB but i Get all the Smaller more Subtle Feeling also like Tire Chatter.

Linx
14-07-2015, 16:24
Looking forward to it

Sankyo
14-07-2015, 17:34
I Dis agree...Remco Van Dijk How Many Hours do you have Tweeking PS4 PCars FFB ? I have probly over 100hrs by now.

https://youtu.be/A1KkaheVNEk

Yup Ok No Problem i dont Need or want any More infractions...But it is My opinion that you can Not Run your Global FFB at 100 because you are Not Leaving Room for Any other Forces to be added without causing Clipping.
I'm sorry, but this is not how the FFB system works. In the picture below, I have set the FFB to 100, and you can clearly see FFB clipping in the FFB meter:

211798

I then set the global FFB strength to 50, and took the picture below at the same location on the track. You see that the FFB amplitude has not halved, it is still clipping. This shows that the FFB strength does not influence the clipping of the calculated FFB. The FFB coming through my wheel was a lot lighter, though, which may give the impression that the FFB isn't clipping anymore but the graph shows that it still is and hence you're missing FFB details.

211800

The clipping of the FFB happens before it is multiplied by the overall FFB strength value. It is coming directly from the physics calculations and is (predominantly) determined by the tyre force FFB parameters. The global FFB parameter only maps the result to the FFB force range of your wheel. If the physics result is already clipping, the global FFB value is not going to change that.

Redslayer
14-07-2015, 18:54
Honestly, I've never felt a difference when adjusting the over all FFB option. I've dropped it all the way to 50, and it didn't make a bit of difference. Luckily I have the option to adjust it directly on my wheel.

GrimeyDog
14-07-2015, 19:35
I'm sorry, but this is not how the FFB system works. In the picture below, I have set the FFB to 100, and you can clearly see FFB clipping in the FFB meter:

211798

I then set the global FFB strength to 50, and took the picture below at the same location on the track. You see that the FFB amplitude has not halved, it is still clipping. This shows that the FFB strength does not influence the clipping of the calculated FFB. The FFB coming through my wheel was a lot lighter, though, which may give the impression that the FFB isn't clipping anymore but the graph shows that it still is and hence you're missing FFB details.

211800

The clipping of the FFB happens before it is multiplied by the overall FFB strength value. It is coming directly from the physics calculations and is (predominantly) determined by the tyre force FFB parameters. The global FFB parameter only maps the result to the FFB force range of your wheel. If the physics result is already clipping, the global FFB value is not going to change that.

Exactly Remco!!! Yesss we are on the same page!!! The pictures do not tell us what your Tire Force setting is or what your in Car settings are though.. IE: if your in car settings are 200 you can get clipping with 10% Global FFB... ijs


in My Video i clearly Have No FFB Clipping and the wheel is still very strong.

To keep it simple look at it like this...there are 2 settings that control Global FFB strength (1) FFB Level Controls the FFB Effects Strength (2) Tire force(Controls the wheel weight)***just my best guess because we don't have a official tuning guide from SMS***.... lets just say those 2 settings = 50% of the total FFB output... Then you have the in car FFB setting (1) Master Scale (2) SOP Scale these Represent the other 50% keep in mind that in car Masters have settings that must be tweeked within the masters so each in car master represents 25%.... so if you set your Global FFB to 100 your not leaving any room for other forces to be added in...so technically there are 4 masters that control the FFB strength that have to be set in Balance with each other.

I will post my Wheel and Car settings who is using a v2 wheel??? and is willing to try them and post the results?

GrimeyDog
14-07-2015, 20:19
Question What FW Do i Need to Hook my GT2 wheel to PS4??? Its been Years since ive used it i think it still has 681 FW... will that work?

Luxman_
14-07-2015, 20:44
I did not find any topic that specifically speak this issue. If exists, I apolegize.

Since the 1.4 update Is possible to have the gears configured on the steering wheel and shifter (CSS 1.5 SQ ), at the same time.

But the gear change are inverted. Front is UP and back is DOWN

If you configure the shifter, the operation with pads wheel shifter and the shifter, no longer work at the same time.


Are this issue reported?

Thank you

-Brick_Top-
14-07-2015, 21:23
I will post my Wheel and Car settings who is using a v2 wheel??? and is willing to try them and post the results?

Sir I accept your challenge!!!

-Brick_Top-
14-07-2015, 21:25
Question What FW Do i Need to Hook my GT2 wheel to PS4??? Its been Years since ive used it i think it still has 681 FW... will that work?

I think its a 700 odd firmware you need if I recall correctly the 681will give you bad lag although don't own one so could be wrong. Believe it or not I have been wrong in the past

2stains
14-07-2015, 23:25
Question What FW Do i Need to Hook my GT2 wheel to PS4??? Its been Years since ive used it i think it still has 681 FW... will that work?
Please give it a go and help us out on the GT2 and firmware is latest 756 . Do you think i should reset my wheel after 2.0 ?I haven't yet . A littles scared .

lethaLEEkill
15-07-2015, 02:32
OK, I've had my fanatec gt3rs v2 about a week now and after hours of tweaking i think i have this right, for 1 car any way(will start work on more soon) all these settings need to be set as written(may need to push curser all the way right then back for some increments)
note: i did not calibrate wheel or pedals
wheel settings: sen; off, ff: 100, sho: 000, dri: off, abs: off, lin: 000, dea: 000, spr: off, dpr: off

Options: Options & Help: Controls: (press R1) Configuration:
Steer DZ: 0
steer sen: 50
speed sen: 0
contr filt sen: 0
damp sat: 0
ffb: 100
contr input: 3
adv: off

Options: Options & Help: Controls: (press R2) ffb calib:

Tire force: 74
per whl mov: -0.02
per whl mov sq: 0.04(104)
whl pos smth: 0.06
dz rem rng: 0
dz rem fall off: 0
link scl: 0
link stf: 1.0
link dmp: 1.0
rel adj gain: 1.10(110)
rel adj bld: 0.14
rel adj clmp: 0.96
scoop kn: 0.70
scoop red: 0.15
sft clip hlf input: 2.40
sft clip ful input: 0

BMW Z4 GT3:

Spindle:
master: 26
fx scl: 64.01
fy scl: 8.01
fz scl: 88.01
mz scl: 102.01
all smthing: 0 except fy: .10

Body & SoP:
body scl: 0.01
body long scl: 0.01
body stiff: 80
body damp: 54
SoP: 26
SoP lat: 80
SoP dif: 80
SoP damp: 0

had no idea my wheel could feel so responsive

gruzzlebeard
15-07-2015, 06:55
Exactly Remco!!! Yesss we are on the same page!!! The pictures do not tell us what your Tire Force setting is or what your in Car settings are though.. IE: if your in car settings are 200 you can get clipping with 10% Global FFB... ijs


in My Video i clearly Have No FFB Clipping and the wheel is still very strong.

To keep it simple look at it like this...there are 2 settings that control Global FFB strength (1) FFB Level Controls the FFB Effects Strength (2) Tire force(Controls the wheel weight)***just my best guess because we don't have a official tuning guide from SMS***.... lets just say those 2 settings = 50% of the total FFB output... Then you have the in car FFB setting (1) Master Scale (2) SOP Scale these Represent the other 50% keep in mind that in car Masters have settings that must be tweeked within the masters so each in car master represents 25%.... so if you set your Global FFB to 100 your not leaving any room for other forces to be added in...so technically there are 4 masters that control the FFB strength that have to be set in Balance with each other.

I will post my Wheel and Car settings who is using a v2 wheel??? and is willing to try them and post the results?

Thats a good proposal. I'd be happy to participate. I'm using also the CSW V2. Maybe you can share with us your latest settings or even update your FFB tweek v#07 file?

Currently I run with FF100/TF100 without any clipping. But the amplitudes in your Video are much more subtle than mine. I will setup the Ford Focus with my settings and I will post a video. Then I would like to try your settings and we can compare it.
Cheers

Sankyo
15-07-2015, 06:59
Exactly Remco!!! Yesss we are on the same page!!! The pictures do not tell us what your Tire Force setting is or what your in Car settings are though.. IE: if your in car settings are 200 you can get clipping with 10% Global FFB... ijs
My tyre force and car FFB settings are not important, what I showed is that the global FFB strength value has no influence on clipping and hence your previous statement that "you can Not Run your Global FFB at 100 because you are Not Leaving Room for Any other Forces to be added without causing Clipping" is simply not true. What determines clipping are the tyre and car FFB forces, the global FFB value just determines what part of the total FFB strength of the wheel is used, like an overall volume dial.



in My Video i clearly Have No FFB Clipping and the wheel is still very strong.
And you'll find that if you raise the global FFB value, you'll still have no clipping but the wheel will be even stronger :) And if you lower global FFB, it will also not start clipping.


To keep it simple look at it like this...there are 2 settings that control Global FFB strength (1) FFB Level Controls the FFB Effects Strength (2) Tire force(Controls the wheel weight)***just my best guess because we don't have a official tuning guide from SMS***.... lets just say those 2 settings = 50% of the total FFB output... Then you have the in car FFB setting (1) Master Scale (2) SOP Scale these Represent the other 50% keep in mind that in car Masters have settings that must be tweeked within the masters so each in car master represents 25%.... so if you set your Global FFB to 100 your not leaving any room for other forces to be added in...so technically there are 4 masters that control the FFB strength that have to be set in Balance with each other.
And this is exactly how it doesn't work. The 'physics forces' tyre force, car Fx/Fy/Fz/Mz, SoP etc. are the parameters that determine how much of the available 'FFB headroom' is being used. The global FFB value then scales the result of that to the power output of the wheel. So if the sum of the 'physics forces' is not clipping, applying 100% global FFB or 25% global FFB does not make any difference, the forces still won't clip but the FFB strength coming through the wheel will be very different of course.

If the sum of the 'physics forces' is clipping (as shown on the FFB meter), dialing the global FFB value to 100%, 50% or 5% doesn't make any difference, the forces will still clip but the actual wheel strength will be very different. This is what I showed in my screenshots above: when the 'physics forces' clip at 100% global FFB (first picture), they will still clip in exactly the same way at 50% global FFB (second picture). Even if I would set global FFB to 150% if possible, the forces would still clip. Only by dialing back the 'physics forces' you can avoid clipping, the global FFB value does not influence this at all.

gruzzlebeard
15-07-2015, 07:14
Thanks. This makes it now so much clearer to me. I've no issue with clipping while using 100% FFB+TF. So I should now focus more on the Fx/Fy/Fz/Mz, SoP etc parameters in order to get more detailed and subtle overall FFB. If it starts clipping then I can reduce the single values, Master scale and/or TF. If the wheel is too havy and dull I can adjust aditionally MZ or Wheel movement setting or DRI in CSW V2. I hope I've got the point.

Wi7cher
15-07-2015, 08:53
I will post my Wheel and Car settings who is using a v2 wheel??? and is willing to try them and post the results?

I have a GT3 RS V2 and will try your Settings if you post them
My current Settings are:
TF: 100
Global FFB: 60
In car FFB: Jack Spade recommandation

You are absolutly right with your approach to lower the Global FFB, but I think this has nothing to do with clipping (as Remco Van Dijk already mentioned). But with Global FFB 100% I feel less Feedback as with FFB 60%. And for me the difference is really huge!

Sankyo
15-07-2015, 10:37
I have a GT3 RS V2 and will try your Settings if you post them
My current Settings are:
TF: 100
Global FFB: 60
In car FFB: Jack Spade recommandation

You are absolutly right with your approach to lower the Global FFB, but I think this has nothing to do with clipping (as Remco Van Dijk already mentioned). But with Global FFB 100% I feel less Feedback as with FFB 60%. And for me the difference is really huge!
Could you make screenshots like I did above for those two global FFB values? I'm interested what your FFB signal looks like, as to explain why you would feel less feedback with 100% than with 60%. I take it that with 'less feedback' you mean 'less nuances', as the FFB itself should be stronger at 100%?

Wi7cher
15-07-2015, 11:13
I take it that with 'less feedback' you mean 'less nuances', as the FFB itself should be stronger at 100%?
Yes, "less nuances" is the better expression. Btw, I'm using FW205, but I will test it with FW219 tonight.

Sankyo
15-07-2015, 11:20
Yes, "less nuances" is the better expression. Btw, I'm using FW205, but I will test it with FW219 tonight.

Not FW (firmware), but driver ;)

GrimeyDog
15-07-2015, 12:04
I have a GT3 RS V2 and will try your Settings if you post them
My current Settings are:
TF: 100
Global FFB: 60
In car FFB: Jack Spade recommandation

You are absolutly right with your approach to lower the Global FFB, but I think this has nothing to do with clipping (as Remco Van Dijk already mentioned). But with Global FFB 100% I feel less Feedback as with FFB 60%. And for me the difference is really huge!

Exactly what i Noticed while Testing the GT2 wheel Last Night.

Luxman_
15-07-2015, 12:22
Anyone as this issue?

GrimeyDog
15-07-2015, 13:30
Could you make screenshots like I did above for those two global FFB values? I'm interested what your FFB signal looks like, as to explain why you would feel less feedback with 100% than with 60%. I take it that with 'less feedback' you mean 'less nuances', as the FFB itself should be stronger at 100%?

The FBB will be Less Clear and you will Get Distsortion.. Kind of like a Weak Speaker when you Turn Volume up too Loud the sound is Not Clear and Distorted.

Fong74
15-07-2015, 13:49
[...]Only by dialing back the 'physics forces' you can avoid clipping, the global FFB value does not influence this at all.

Thanks a lot for the explanation, Remco. That lets me understand pCars FFb much better now.

Infos of that quality and on that abstraction level should be included in the game itself as hints or at least in the manual imho. That would have helped a lot after launch and every new user joining the pCars family.

Sankyo
15-07-2015, 13:52
The FBB will be Less Clear and you will Get Distsortion.. Kind of like a Weak Speaker when you Turn Volume up too Loud the sound is Not Clear and Distorted.
No, this is what I have been explaining above (and want to get verified by this request): the FFB does not distort from turning up the global FFB value, unless you mean that it gets distorted by the wheel and not the game. But even then, I doubt that there is any distortion occurring when using 100% global FFB.

GrimeyDog
15-07-2015, 14:32
211897

I Have all 3 wheels CSW v2, CSR Elite and the GT2 wheel. Last Night i tested all of them with My Settings...Same Car/ Track...the Same Global/ Tire Force and Car Settings and this is what i Found.

I Found that the GT 2 and CSE Elite while they May appear to be Clipping Even at a Low FFB/Tire Force Setting they are Not actually Clipping its just that the wheel is Not able to Pick up the FFB signal being sent to the wheel... Either the Signal is Above or Below the Range of what the Wheel is able to Pick up.

I Tested this by going to a Track with Good Rumble Strips and Grass. I then Drove the car Very Hard into turns while watching the FFB Meter...While the FFB Meter Seemed to be Maxed out and Clipping because the Wheel while Still Responsive was Not Giving any Tire Chatter or Loss of Grip Feel i Hit the Rumble Strips or Put 2 wheels in the Grass and the FFB Line Began Moving again instantly and i also Could Feel it in the Wheel... this Confirmed the Wheel was Not Clipping because the FFB line went Flat it ment that the Wheel was getting a Signal Above or Below what it was able to Process. I dont Know if that would be a issue of Out dated Hardware or the FW Needs to be updated for these wheels... Could be Either.

I then began to Raise the FFB Level from 24 which is what i use on my V2 and i Noticed when i set it above 50 - 60 i began to Lose FFB feeling... The wheel was Now Clipping so i set the FFB to 48...it did Not Seem to Matter what setting i Changed the wheel Never seemed to gain any more FFB power when set above 50 but i Noticed that i began to lose the Subtle Road feel sensations... Due to the Higher FFB setting the Smaller more Subtle Road Feel was Getting over shadowed by the Stroger Twisting or Bump Forces...Thats Not Good because the Smaller Road Feel Forces can warn you before you totally Lose all Grip.

There is a Difference between FFB Clipping and the FFB Signal being out of the Range of what the wheel can pick up and process... You Have to Know the Limits of the Wheel.

at 100% FFB set on the V2 it is a Very Strong Wheel so it can take a Low Signal and Still Remain Strong.. after update 2.0 setting the v2 to 50 its just way too Strong... The Benefit of using the lowest FFB signal possible is that your wheel will Not Have Heat issues( I Run all Day and Night on weekends), You will get longer life from your wheel But Most important is you wont get FFB Signal Distortion... Look at it like this when you play music Louder than a Speaker can Handle you begin to Lose Clarity... The Wheels Work on the same principal so it is wise to Set the FFB Below the point that Clipping Starts because the FFB signal is always going up and Down Harshly and if you set it too close to the limit you will get Clipping. IE: The FFB may Not Clip while Driving a LMP1 but you Will Surely get Clipping while driving the GT3 Giunetta or GT3 Porsche that is a Very Harsh Car on a Bumpy Track... You Must take all of this into consideration while setting your Global FFB and Tire Force Settings.

What it Really Boils down to is Knowing the Limits of the wheel you use.

Also while testing the wheels i could Not get the GT2 or the CSR E to produce the same Telemitry that i was able to get from the V2...The Diff is the V2 has a Brushless Motor so the respone time is Much Quicker and it will pick up very Small FFB signals... The V2 Motor Makes a Huge Difference!!!

EDIT: Even the V2 Looses some finer detail when i set Global too High... When i Had My FFB set to 85 i Never got any Clipping with the V2 but the Finer Detail like Tire Chatter as i Showed in my Video could Not Be Clearly Felt... It was there but getting over Shadowed by the Stronger Forces.. You have to find a Balance between Power and Fidelity... im 95% there!!!

GrimeyDog
15-07-2015, 15:01
No, this is what I have been explaining above (and want to get verified by this request): the FFB does not distort from turning up the global FFB value, unless you mean that it gets distorted by the wheel and not the game. But even then, I doubt that there is any distortion occurring when using 100% global FFB.

Exactly Remco... Some wheels Cant Take 100% Global FFB!!! I Never Said it was PCars that was the Problem... Wow!!! Finally were on the Same Page. Yaaay!!!!

Its a Wheel Issue Not a PCars issue.. The V2 will Handle 100% Global and 100% Tire Force but then the wheel is Sooo Strong that you Can Hardly Turn a Fast Corner with it.... The GT2 cant Handle 100% Global without Clipping the CSR Elite Can Handle More but they Both Suffer from Loss of Fine detail when the Global is Set too High because your Feeding the Wheel More than it Can Handle.

I Never Said it was a PCars Issue... the Issue is Knowing the Limits of the wheel. You Cant get More Power out of the wheel than it was designed to put out by Cranking up the FFB... Thats Like thinking you can Beat a Porshe in a Hyundai because your using Higher octain petro than the guy in the Porsche is using... Dont Matter what grade of petro you use a Stock Hyudai wont put out more power than it was built to... Same with the Gt2 & CSR E... You have to know the limits of the wheel.

Sankyo
15-07-2015, 15:13
.... The GT2 cant Handle 100% Global without Clipping ...
I take it that you mean that the wheel itself is clipping (not the FFB meter in-game)? If yes, how do you determine that it is clipping?

GrimeyDog
15-07-2015, 15:35
When the wheel Goes Limp and is unResponsive During High FFB Demands the wheel is Clipping... it Never Last too long 1/2 Second or Less... IE: Strong FFB to the Left then when you Turn Right the Wheel is Limp then Snaps Back and acts Normal until its asked to Handle More power input than it was built to take again.
its a Totaly Different feeling than when you get 1 wheel in the air.

Edit: The FFB Meter in the game is just Measuring How Much Reistance to Electrical flow is Coming Back from the wheel... Higher end Wheels can Handle More Voltage than others...Some one with a Frex or Accu Force wheel May Never even See that in Game FFB Meter Hit the Celing or Max out... those wheels take Heavy input Voltage.

Yup these Consoles and Games Advanced Now!!! they will actually Measure Resistance to Electrical Flow to Show Clipping... Who woulda thought about this 10yrs ago when the Fanatec wheels first hit the market... WOW

-Brick_Top-
15-07-2015, 16:41
@ remco

I don't know if maybe grimey dog has used the wrong terminology??? I don't know if he's rich and famous??? I don't know if he's made from cheese???

I do know one thing for sure that man can tune ffb. I have tried all versions of his ffb tweaks and on the whole been happy with them. However last night I had the privilege of trying his latest settings and blown away is an understatement. They are quite simply perfection.
I truly had the most fun I have ever had on a SIM. Project cars wow I finally felt 100% connected to the car. The weight of the wheel, the feel of every lump bump, kerbs, tire chatter.... Everything was absolutely spot on.
All day I have been looking forward to getting home to have a go. Believe me I have never felt like that about project cars since release day.

Just these latest settings have 100% changed the game for me.

@ grimey dog

Thank you bud, simply perfection the csw v2 has never felt so good on this or any other game. I appreciate your hard work and the time you have invested into getting this right. I owe you a beer or 6

Sankyo
15-07-2015, 16:42
When the wheel Goes Limp and is unResponsive During High FFB Demands the wheel is Clipping... it Never Last too long 1/2 Second or Less... IE: Strong FFB to the Left then when you Turn Right the Wheel is Limp then Snaps Back and acts Normal until its asked to Handle More power input than it was built to take again.
its a Totaly Different feeling than when you get 1 wheel in the air.

Edit: The FFB Meter in the game is just Measuring How Much Reistance to Electrical flow is Coming Back from the wheel... Higher end Wheels can Handle More Voltage than others...Some one with a Frex or Accu Force wheel May Never even See that in Game FFB Meter Hit the Celing or Max out... those wheels take Heavy input Voltage.

Yup these Consoles and Games Advanced Now!!! they will actually Measure Resistance to Electrical Flow to Show Clipping... Who woulda thought about this 10yrs ago when the Fanatec wheels first hit the market... WOW

I've never experienced the wheel going limp as you described. Do you mean that it loses all FFB?

I don't know where you got the notion from that the FFB meter is the 'resistance to electrical flow', but that's totally wrong. It's the calculated FFB signal that is sent to the wheel.

GrimeyDog
15-07-2015, 16:50
Cheers Brick Top... Im about to get off work... i will be Home in 1 hour and im Getting Straight on PCars when i Get in!!! Lets Have a Few Races. Glad you Like them.
I wish i was Rich but Not Famous... LOL... My Settings would be Even better i would have More time to Tweek!!! LOL....Once immsure the Last FFB update is out i will Tune a Few Cars!!! Vrooom!!!!

I Haven Had a Chance to make a New PDF yet

Sankyo
15-07-2015, 16:51
@ remco

I don't know if maybe grimey dog has used the wrong terminology??? I don't know if he's rich and famous??? I don't know if he's made from cheese???

I do know one thing for sure that man can tune ffb. I have tried all versions of his ffb tweaks and on the whole been happy with them. However last night I had the privilege of trying his latest settings and blown away is an understatement. They are quite simply perfection.
I truly had the most fun I have ever had on a SIM. Project cars wow I finally felt 100% connected to the car. The weight of the wheel, the feel of every lump bump, kerbs, tire chatter.... Everything was absolutely spot on.
All day I have been looking forward to getting home to have a go. Believe me I have never felt like that about project cars since release day.

Just these latest settings have 100% changed the game for me.

@ grimey dog

Thank you bud, simply perfection the csw v2 has never felt so good on this or any other game. I appreciate your hard work and the time you have invested into getting this right. I owe you a beer or 6

What are Grimey's latest settings? I would like to try them myself and if good they could end up in the game, maybe.

Azure Flare
15-07-2015, 17:00
I've tried to the setting in the Fanatec profiler that makes the sequential mode and paddles the same buttons, but it doesn't seem to do anything.

While there are only a handful of cars in the game that have a sequential shifter, I find this bug/glitch/whatever this is to be very annoying.

GrimeyDog
15-07-2015, 17:03
I've never experienced the wheel going limp as you described. Do you mean that it loses all FFB?

I don't know where you got the notion from that the FFB meter is the 'resistance to electrical flow', but that's totally wrong. It's the calculated FFB signal that is sent to the wheel.

Ok Remco you win No Problem... Same thing Calculated Measured what ever you say... But as i said its Measuring Resistance to Electrical Flow!!! thats How it calculates Clipping or Not other than that you Explain why 3 wheels with the same Global and Car settings get different FFB Meter Readings??? I will wait 4 it... LOL.. Its just Science but Not Rocket Science...Do you understand How Voltage Meters work??? Its the Same thing just used in a Game to Measure the Wheels Total input vs Out put and thats what determins how high the FFB Meter Raises or Lowers.

Wow... I was a Chick Magnet when i went to School... i Guess Must Have paid more attention in School than i thought LOL.

Yup simple as that...BTW all of the systems can tell you that your controler batt is low too!!! So yes they do have Voltage Measuring technology within all platforms. ijs

-Brick_Top-
15-07-2015, 17:06
What are Grimey's latest settings? I would like to try them myself and if good they could end up in the game, maybe.

I will leave that to the man himself to decide if he is to publicly release them or not. I am more than happy to try anyone else's settings and give a 100% unbiased comparison. I have tried many others and truly nothing so far has come close.
If anyone thinks they have a great set up I'd love to try them.
I can honestly say if that was my work gone into getting the feel so sweet I would probably keep them to myself. Since I do have them I'm just waiting to get grimeys PayPal off him so I can get him a bottle of his favourite poison


Edit

To add a caveat provided it's not a $12,000 dollar bottle of LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL 2002
Methuselah champagne or some other ridiculously priced fine wine!!!

Luxman_
15-07-2015, 17:09
I've tried to the setting in the Fanatec profiler that makes the sequential mode and paddles the same buttons, but it doesn't seem to do anything.

While there are only a handful of cars in the game that have a sequential shifter, I find this bug/glitch/whatever this is to be very annoying.

Yes Iīve tried the profiler too but donīt work at all.



I play the game most of the cars with sequencial, but with this issue, if I want to use the pad shifters on the wheel, I have to quit and assign in the options the wheel (one at the time) because of the inverted shifting on the Fanatec CSS.

Segaspence
15-07-2015, 17:29
Grimey share your settings please! I'm on a csr elite but it don't feel right, thanks

GrimeyDog
15-07-2015, 19:00
211970

Look at the Engineering and SoloTime!!! Thats All Wheel Tweekin Time Spent!!! and This is After i Reset My Profile from update 1.4

Sankyo
15-07-2015, 19:07
Ok Remco you win No Problem...
It's not about 'winning', it's about everyone understanding what FFB and its parameters is about in the game, and communicating the correct information.


Same thing Calculated Measured what ever you say...
Calculating and measuring are two very different things, basically they're quite opposite in this case of producing FFB on a wheel.


But as i said its Measuring Resistance to Electrical Flow!!! thats How it calculates Clipping or Not other than that you Explain why 3 wheels with the same Global and Car settings get different FFB Meter Readings??? I will wait 4 it... LOL..
You can only make such a comparison if you are using the different wheels with exactly the same in-game and driver settings. You didn't mention tyre force, but if you're using different tyre force values between wheels then you get different FFB meter readings for sure. It would be interesting to see picture and/or video evidence of this, showing what you claim.Not for 'winning', but for understanding FFB and what influences FFB strength and clipping.

Most probably, though, the game uses information about the wheels' capabilities as stored in the SDK for each wheel, and that determines the non-clipping FFB range per wheel.


Its just Science but Not Rocket Science...Do you understand How Voltage Meters work???
I have a Masters Degree in Applied Physics, so I have some idea yes :)


Its the Same thing just used in a Game to Measure the Wheels Total input vs Out put and thats what determins how high the FFB Meter Raises or Lowers.
I have no idea what you mean there, but the game does not measure any output of the wheel. AFAIK the only thing that it gets back from the wheel is its position and that's it.


Yup simple as that...BTW all of the systems can tell you that your controler batt is low too!!! So yes they do have Voltage Measuring technology within all platforms. ijs
Actually the measurement is done by the electronics of the controller itself, and probably the driver then tells the game the battery status. That's something very different than measuring the power output of the FFB motor, though.

GrimeyDog
15-07-2015, 19:19
It's not about 'winning', it's about everyone understanding what FFB and its parameters is about in the game, and communicating the correct information.


Calculating and measuring are two very different things, basically they're quite opposite in this case of producing FFB on a wheel.


You can only make such a comnparison if you are using the different wheels with exactly the same in-game and driver settings. You didn't mention tyre force, but if you're using different tyre force values between wheels then you get different FFB meter readings for sure. It would be interesting to see picture and/or video evidence of this, showing what you claim.Not for 'winning', but for understanding FFB and what influences FFB strength and clipping.

Most probably, though, the game uses information about the wheels' capabilities as stored in the SDK for each wheel, and that determines the non-clipping FFB range per wheel.


I have a Masters Degree in Applied Physics, so I have some idea yes :)


I have no idea what you mean there, but the game does not measure any output of the wheel. AFAIK the only thing that it gets back from the wheel is its position and that's it.


Actually the measurement is done by the electronics of the controller itself, and probably the driver then tells the game the battery status. That's something very different than measuring the power output of the FFB motor, though.

Ok No Problem... i grow weary... it was fun and entertaining when i was at work made my day go by quicker...:cool: but now im home its time to play PCars. Cheers

BTW i did mention in my post that i used the same exact car and wheel settings with each wheel. catch you again tomorrow when im at work Pcars awaits me. lol

Sankyo
15-07-2015, 19:26
Ok No Problem... i grow weary... it was fun and entertaining when i was at work made my day go by quicker...:cool: but now im home its time to play PCars. Cheers

BTW i did mention in my post that i used the same exact car and wheel settings with each wheel. catch you again tomorrow when im at work Pcars awaits me. lol
Don't forget to post your latest CSW v2 settings so I can test them! ;)

Redslayer
15-07-2015, 19:59
What setting do I need to adjust to get rid of wheel oscillation on straights in the Formula A cars?

gruzzlebeard
15-07-2015, 22:39
I tested spindle and SOP all the way up and down without getting this nice subtle amplitudes shown in GrimeyDogs video.

After 5 hours I adjusted the settings back to my standard settings. Suddenly the whole range of FFB was there it was amazing to feel first time a real FFB- see my first video.

But after going back to Edit Tuning Set-up and then back to track I lost all the subtle FFB again. It seems that this was a one-off result maybe caused by a FFB error in the game. With these settings I've never got before neither later such nice amplitudes and feedback on the wheel.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Vyp1d6XP2o

Compare the the amplitudes in the beginning and after the pit-stop. At 1:20 I made the change forth and back.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmqswVN9evE

I changed just one setting but adjusted it directly back to the previous value and saved the same settings like before. But the FFB was lost and I was up to now not able to get it back with the same settings.

Fortunately I recorded everything in the second video.

Linx
16-07-2015, 04:59
Grimey HELP!! I did a reset of my phone and lost your last pdf. Please link. Im sitting in my cockpit right now with terrible default ffb in a car I've never drove before. I need the settings

GrimeyDog
16-07-2015, 08:52
https://youtu.be/Zs-ghj_NIds

FFB test Ginetta Testing Global and In Cars FFB Settings.... These settings are same as the Ford Focus video

GrimeyDog
16-07-2015, 08:56
https://youtu.be/GqODkA5n2PM

FFB Test Porshe Same Global / Tire Force and In Car FFB settings as Ginetta

Titzon Toast
16-07-2015, 11:45
It's high time you released these settings man!
Give us mere mortals a sip from the chalice.
I'll gladly test them out on my Turbo-S if you're willing to PM to me in the strictest confidence of course!

Wi7cher
16-07-2015, 11:49
After 5 hours I adjusted the settings back to my standard settings. Suddenly the whole range of FFB was there it was amazing to feel first time a real FFB- see my first video.

But after going back to Edit Tuning Set-up and then back to track I lost all the subtle FFB again. It seems that this was a one-off result maybe caused by a FFB error in the game. With these settings I've never got before neither later such nice amplitudes and feedback on the wheel.

Same here! After hours of testing I had a really good setting. I changed the global FFB to compare it. After that I changed it to the Setting before and I had not any more the great setting. The FFB was different. That's so frustrating. :mad:

GrimeyDog
16-07-2015, 12:20
It's high time you released these settings man!
Give us mere mortals a sip from the chalice.
I'll gladly test them out on my Turbo-S if you're willing to PM to me in the strictest confidence of course!

Very Soon!!! I was testing Different Cars ssend me a Friend invite on PS4 and we can All Test on Track!!! I Had a Great 4hr Test Session with Brick Top Yesterday. Good Results. No More Global FFB Tweeking to be done... Just Trying Different Cars and Setting In Car FFB. All Testing is Done with Stock Un-tuned Car Settings.

tallcoolone
16-07-2015, 12:38
Hi Guys,

I'm not sure if this has been addressed/answered in a previous post. I looked for it but couldn't find it. I'm having a FFB issue with my Fanatec GT3 only after the mandatory pitstop in the Formula B main races. My wheel has been working great before starting Formula B. I have updated the firmware and I'm currently using Jack Spades settings. I wheels works great before the pitstop, but after the pitstop it will jerk violently in the direction that I'm turning on 3-4 spots on the track, usually in a heavy braking zone. I have to really stay on top of it for will spin out, but this causes me to lose about 2-3 seconds a lap. I have tried turning off the wheel and restarting it when this happens but it doesn't work, like it does with the no FFB issue that I sometimes experience. Also, just to let you know I'm using PS4. Has anyone else experienced this issue and do you know how to fix it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 00:24
This Tune was made for the ***CSW V2*** if you use this tune on other wheels you will have to Tweek the Global FFB and Tire force to match your wheel. I suggest FFB 50 and Cutting the in car FFB Master Scale & Sop Scale to 50.... Results will vary with different Wheels *** i can only Guarantee The FFB Tweek is FINE TUNED for the CSW v2 Exactly as the settings are***

CSW v2 users Please post and tell me what you think... Other wheel users are welcome to try the settings and post also.

Linx
17-07-2015, 00:43
Cant wait to get home to try this. Btw i tried finding you on PSN under Grimey_Dog but nothing came up. I dont currently have the paid subscription. Is that why? Though i did find another friend of mine

Nono
17-07-2015, 08:08
@ Grimey: Thanks a lot for sharing again your hard work whith us. It come at point for the week-end, yeah!
One question about wheel settings:
When you write "All other Wheel Settings are Stock", you mean DPR and SPR at "100" and DRI at "0". Because I instead used for the moment DPR and SPR arround "0" and DRI at "3".

Thanks for all car's god bless you

memoric77
17-07-2015, 08:46
This Tune was made for the ***CSW V2*** if you use this tune on other wheels you will have to Tweek the Global FFB and Tire force to match your wheel. I suggest FFB 50 and Cutting the in car FFB Master Scale & Sop Scale to 50.... Results will vary with different Wheels *** i can only Guarantee The wheel is FINE TUNED for the CSW v2 Exactly as the settings are***

CSW v2 users Please post and tell me what you think... Other wheel users are welcome to try the settings and post also.

Will try this with my GT3 v2 tonight ;)

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 08:53
@ Grimey: Thanks a lot for sharing again your hard work whith us. It come at point for the week-end, yeah!
One question about wheel settings:
When you write "All other Wheel Settings are Stock", you mean DPR and SPR at "100" and DRI at "0". Because I instead used for the moment DPR and SPR arround "0" and DRI at "3".

Thanks for all car's god bless you

Yes Every Wheel Setting is as it would be if you just updated your wheel FW....FFB 100, Sho 100, For 100, Abs Off, SPR/DPR 100, DRI Off ***SEN Off***

Titzon Toast
17-07-2015, 11:50
I used most of Grimey's settings on my Turbo-S last night and they felt absolutely superb, I can't run certain settings as high as high as he does because my wheel is old school though.
If anyone wants me to post my hybrid settings here just shout out.
@ Grimey Dog
That was great fun last night man, I'm gonna post the videos of that funny bug we encountered later on.
We racing again tonight?!

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 12:50
I used most of Grimey's settings on my Turbo-S last night and they felt absolutely superb, I can't run certain settings as high as high as he does because my wheel is old school though.
If anyone wants me to post my hybrid settings here just shout out.
@ Grimey Dog
That was great fun last night man, I'm gonna post the videos of that funny bug we encountered later on.
We racing again tonight?!


That was Great Fun indeed!!! I Can Hardly wait to get off work so we can Race More!!! Tweek Tune and Race!!! We will get all the wheels Sorted out For Sure like this!!! Team Work and Great Fun Too!!!

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 12:52
Wheres My Buddy Remco Van Dijk??? I Hope he has a V2 so he can try the Tweek out.

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 13:07
Remco Van Dijk what are your thoughts on this?

The more i think about it it seems that PCars FFB is Set up Like CodeMasters FFB.

CodeMasters Has 3 Sliders (1) Force Feed Back (2) Wheel Weight (3) Environment... its just that all the Setting adjustments are allready Balanced and Hidden behind the Sliders.

So it Seems that PCars FFB System could work the same.

1) Wheel weight = Tire Force
2) Force Feed Back = Force Feed Back
3) Environment = In Cars FFB Settings

Only Difference is we Can Tune all the Behind the Slider Settings to personal taste or to a Level that best works with our wheel.

This is only my theory and thoughts but it seems Very Logical that this could be the case...If this could be confirmed this would make tuning Very easy once you have the Propper Global Settings Dialed in.

Bruno Alexandre
17-07-2015, 14:03
Since the new build (2.5) brings some new features, functionalities and this is one of the reference FFB threads to watch i'm going to post this here:

You can now switch between current FFB settings (Default) and pre-1.4 (classic) by using the FFB Calibration presets, these presets are available under Options > Controls > Calibrate Force Feedback, the presets are set on top of this page and the 4 new sliders to control the spring/steering effect are at the bottom. Whenever you change these values it becomes a custom preset and you can still go back to either Default or Classic by selecting them at the top of this page.

New Sliders Description:

Menu Spring - The strength of the wheel centering spring in the front end and in-game pause menu.

Low Speed Spring Coefficient & Saturation - The weight of the steering at slow speeds (<10mph) and when the car is stationary. The saturation is the maximum force for the spring and the coefficient is how quickly the spring takes effect. To avoid "cogging / notching" effects when stationary its best to leave the spring coefficient high and lower the saturation.

Steering Gain - The gain (multiplier) applied to all steering effects (steering force, jolts, kerb rumble etc) after they have been mixed. For a clean more detailed experience set at 1.0 or below, for stronger feedback at the expense of clipping set higher (maximum value 5).

EDIT:
Just noticed i'm on the PS4 thread, my mistake but at least you guys are informed now of what is coming.

This is how it looks in case you're curious (ignore the values)

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212191&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1437144336

Fong74
17-07-2015, 14:05
So we can expect those in the next console patch, too, right?

Bruno Alexandre
17-07-2015, 14:08
So we can expect those in the next console patch, too, right?

Yes but it might take a bit more of time.

Fong74
17-07-2015, 14:19
Grimey, [highfive] even more tweaking work to do, man :cool:

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 14:42
Grimey, [highfive] even more tweaking work to do, man :cool:

Fong74 Have you Tried the Tweek yet??? If so what are your thoughts.

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 14:46
Since the new build (2.5) brings some new features, functionalities and this is one of the reference FFB threads to watch i'm going to post this here:

You can now switch between current FFB settings (Default) and pre-1.4 (classic) by using the FFB Calibration presets, these presets are available under Options > Controls > Calibrate Force Feedback, the presets are set on top of this page and the 4 new sliders to control the spring/steering effect are at the bottom. Whenever you change these values it becomes a custom preset and you can still go back to either Default or Classic by selecting them at the top of this page.

New Sliders Description:

Menu Spring - The strength of the wheel centering spring in the front end and in-game pause menu.

Low Speed Spring Coefficient & Saturation - The weight of the steering at slow speeds (<10mph) and when the car is stationary. The saturation is the maximum force for the spring and the coefficient is how quickly the spring takes effect. To avoid "cogging / notching" effects when stationary its best to leave the spring coefficient high and lower the saturation.

Steering Gain - The gain (multiplier) applied to all steering effects (steering force, jolts, kerb rumble etc) after they have been mixed. For a clean more detailed experience set at 1.0 or below, for stronger feedback at the expense of clipping set higher (maximum value 5).

EDIT:
Just noticed i'm on the PS4 thread, my mistake but at least you guys are informed now of what is coming.

This is Exciting News!!! Thats the Last piece of the Puzzle... All wheels Should work Really Good when this update Releases.

If this update Performs as Described PCars will be the Racing Game of the Decade!!!

Fong74
17-07-2015, 14:57
Fong74 Have you Tried the Tweek yet??? If so what are your thoughts.

Unfortunately not yet, Grimey. But I passed it to my racing community already, awaiting feedback. We do test several FFB-tweak approaches atm and yours is one of those.

I really do hope to be able to test myself this weekend. Will get back to you for sure man. Appreciate your efforts a lot.....but you know that anyway :livid:

Sankyo
17-07-2015, 15:00
Wheres My Buddy Remco Van Dijk??? I Hope he has a V2 so he can try the Tweek out.

I'll try your settings tonight.

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 15:03
Fong74 Your Going to Like it...This is the best 1 yet...Im going to Replace that other Dude as the Main CSW v2 FFB pin up:victorious:

Freak66
17-07-2015, 15:14
I used most of Grimey's settings on my Turbo-S last night and they felt absolutely superb, I can't run certain settings as high as high as he does because my wheel is old school though.
If anyone wants me to post my hybrid settings here just shout out.
@ Grimey Dog
That was great fun last night man, I'm gonna post the videos of that funny bug we encountered later on.
We racing again tonight?!

Titzon, I am shouting out: your hybrid settings for Turbo S, yes very welcome!
I drive mainly GT3 and I am quite happy with Sik180sx settings.
But maybe there is more?
I am still missing more feel for front wheel loss of grip (understeer).
Tryed a lot but could not find improvement to Sik180sx settings.

Titzon Toast
17-07-2015, 16:12
@Freak66
I'll post them up here asap man.

Kain NL
17-07-2015, 16:24
after update 2.0 i Run Tire Force at 98 and 24 on the Game FFB Master!!! The Feel is Great... Im going to post a Video of My Telemetry!!! I Can Feel Every thing Even Tire Chatter Right before i Loose Grip!!! Im Still using My Same in Car FFB settings.

Basicly i find that Setting the Global FFB setting Higher than 24 you dont really gain any FFB Power but you loose a lot of Fidelity and cant feel all the Subtle FFB Effects.

https://youtu.be/adblSey1NLA

I Can Feel Every Tire Slide Before it Happens... Check out the telemetry... No FFB Clipping at All.... Sorry for the video Quality... LOL

Grimey, looking at your telemetry graphic I still think your Tire Force is too high. It's too much at the top of the window...so still a little loss. Try 75 in stead...it's also less of a struggle while turning.

Linx
17-07-2015, 16:52
@ Grimey. I used your new settings last night and I love them. Though i had to make one tweek and that was due to me using a regular CSR. At first use of new settings i found that i couldnt feel any loss of grip. I could hear and see the car sliding out but no feel of it in the wheel. Plus I was driving the Ford Focus which was my first time driving a fwd car in this game. I could feel the kerbs and dirt and bumps but loss of grip was not there at all. So i turned down fy scale to 4.01 and now the fun began. Being the CSR is pretty much in the same class as the GT3 and Turbo S I always thought the settings of those wheels would work on the CSR. But now I'm pretty sure the CSR requires its own settings. So all your values worked but I would recommend to turn down the fy scale to 4.01. You'll definitely feel grip loss and tire chatter.

Kain NL
17-07-2015, 16:54
Concerning the ABS rumble...it is there on the CSP V2, but VERY WEAK...and kicks in way to late. Try setting the wheel ABS to 45 and do an emergency brake at high speed till you stand still.

I'm very curious how the new CSP V3 brake AND throttle rumble motors work with PCars. Really have to hold back unpacking V3 till my RSEAT RS1 gets here after the weekend...ohw yeah...got early delivery...YEAHHHHH

Segaspence
17-07-2015, 17:02
Great settings grimey thanks for sharing. I have one slight issue though , I can feel everything from car sliding to kerbs bumps and even dips in the road but I feel my wheel is on steroids now lol, I have a problem where the wheel is so stiff that I can't get into the apex quick enough because the weight of the wheel is like a arm wrestle lol, what settings should I turn down to make the wheel less weighty? I'm using csr elite by the way, thanks

Linx
17-07-2015, 17:08
Segaspence though i have a regular CSR I experienced the same thing with the my previous settings. I'm not sure exactly which setting to change but at the time i turned my on wheel drift setting to 2 and that made the wheel feel much better. You can try that until Grimey or someone gives the fix.

Segaspence
17-07-2015, 17:15
Thanks for the tip , I'll give it a try ,thanks

Kain NL
17-07-2015, 18:46
Also..turn down Tire Force....that's the one that makes the wheel feel like an 80s car

Titzon Toast
17-07-2015, 18:52
Titzon, I am shouting out: your hybrid settings for Turbo S, yes very welcome!
I drive mainly GT3 and I am quite happy with Sik180sx settings.
But maybe there is more?
I am still missing more feel for front wheel loss of grip (understeer).
Tryed a lot but could not find improvement to Sik180sx settings.

Here you go man.

FORCE FEEDBACK

Tyre force 38
P.W.M 0.00
P.W.M.S 0.00
W.P..S 0.00
D.R.R 0.00
D.R.F 0.00
Linkage scale 0.00
Linkage stiffness 1.00
Linkage Damp. 0.00
Rel Adj Gain 0.98
Rel Adj bleed 0.18
Rel Adj Clamp 0.96
Scoop Knee 0.70
Scoop Reduction 0.15
Soft Clipping 0.00
Soft Clipping Full 0.00



CONFIGURATION

Steering & Throttle 50%
Brake & Clutch 35%
All deadzones 0%
Speed Sen 0
Filter sensitivity 0
Damp Sat 0
Force Feedback 52
Controller imp mode 3
Advance On


WHEEL

SEN 640
FF 100
SHO 100
DRI OFF
ABS 85
LIN 000
DEA 000
SPR 2
DPR 0
ACL OFF

I hope they work for you too man, or at least give you something you can build on. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to reset your wheel settings before trying them out.
Good luck.

EDIT.
I use Jack Spades 66% SopLat settings for the individual cars FFB.

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 18:56
Grimey, looking at your telemetry graphic I still think your Tire Force is too high. It's too much at the top of the window...so still a little loss. Try 75 in stead...it's also less of a struggle while turning.

You Gotta Try the Tweek Kain.. It always goes up to the Top but their is Not a Flat or Straight line in there...all that Tire Chatter Feels Beautiful sooo Much info about the car Right in my hand. Im Gonna Leave it for Now until Next update... You Change 1 thing and then you need to Re-adgust Many things to get the Wheel weight and Feel Back. Gonna Take a Little Time Off From Tweeking and Do a Lil Racing for a bit... I been having some great Races on PS4... Great Fun.

Edit: also No Need to Turn Down Tire Force because if Need be i will Turn the In Car FFB Masters Down... I Keep them at 100...i want to Feel everything the car can Give.

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 19:08
Turn down the Tire Force by steps of 10 until the wheel is Good for you... that should do it. Glad you Like it.

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 19:11
Great settings grimey thanks for sharing. I have one slight issue though , I can feel everything from car sliding to kerbs bumps and even dips in the road but I feel my wheel is on steroids now lol, I have a problem where the wheel is so stiff that I can't get into the apex quick enough because the weight of the wheel is like a arm wrestle lol, what settings should I turn down to make the wheel less weighty? I'm using csr elite by the way, thanks

Turn the Tire force down in steps of 10 untill its right for you...also the "MZ" Can be adjusted per Car to Loosen up the wheel center.

Sankyo
17-07-2015, 19:36
I'll try your settings tonight.

Well I tried them and I'll just say that they're not for me. With the exact settings from the .pdf the FFB is way too strong and harsh for me, with some strange sudden jerks of the wheel when nothing is really happening to the car. If people like them then please enjoy, but I prefer to stay close the the default settings for now :)

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 20:30
Well I tried them and I'll just say that they're not for me. With the exact settings from the .pdf the FFB is way too strong and harsh for me, with some strange sudden jerks of the wheel when nothing is really happening to the car. If people like them then please enjoy, but I prefer to stay close the the default settings for now :)

I like the wheel Heavy... Do you have Camra Shake on??? My Wheel Shakes in Sync with the Camra... im Loving it...But the Strong wheel can be cured with Lowering the In Car FFB Masters or the Tire Force in the Global settings... or just simply turn the FFB down on the wheel.


But i Told you FFB at 24 was More than Enough!!! If i Turn it to 50 i will be Sweating before a 10 lap Race Ends. LOL Cheers.

The other wheel Need Higher Global FFB but not the V2.

-Brick_Top-
17-07-2015, 21:26
Well I tried them and I'll just say that they're not for me. With the exact settings from the .pdf the FFB is way too strong and harsh for me, with some strange sudden jerks of the wheel when nothing is really happening to the car. If people like them then please enjoy, but I prefer to stay close the the default settings for now :)

Try the gym????!!!

GrimeyDog
17-07-2015, 21:36
LOL!!!:applause:

memoric77
17-07-2015, 21:57
Will try this with my GT3 v2 tonight ;)

For me and my GT3 v2 the Tweek from Sik180sx works better than GrimeyDog. But have to put Master and Sop Scale up to 80.

gruzzlebeard
18-07-2015, 06:16
I tested over 7 hours. Unfortunatelly I've got continious FFB issues (total loss ect.). I've reset my profile a couple of times and I even deleted and reinstalled the game. So I cannot reproduce GrimeyDogs settings.

If I shift Dead Zone Removal Fall Off to 0.00 (all the way left) my wheel is collapsing terribely strong to the right when entering a Free Practice (in the PiT screen). When I start on track it's gone but feels strange and I can customize the car FFB (but if I stop on the track the colapse returns). When I shift the global setting "Dead Zone Removal Fall Off" one klick to the right (but still value 0.00) The wheel works fine.

However I'm far away from Grimeys amplitudes with the Ford Focus.

The Porsche is ok and works better.

Now I have to leave (frustrated :rolleyes: )for a few days and continue testing end of next week.

Erwin Berkers
18-07-2015, 06:41
... If people like them then please enjoy, but I prefer to stay close the the default settings for now :)

Thanks Remco, glad to hear I am not the only one who stays close to the default global settings. Although settings boil down to personal preference, my opinion is that the defaults provide a good compromise in stability, reliability, and road feel. And, as I pointed out before, using other’s settings may introduce side effects you’re not happy with and leave you into endless fiddling mode.

I focus most of the FF tuning to the car specific settings (tire forces) and varying settings on the wheel (FF around 50, SHO around 40, DRI around 4). The disadvantage of the on-wheel settings is that you cannot save them with the car setup, but the advantage is you can change them quickly while driving.

What I really enjoy is the FF graph, a brilliant addition to this game. The person who got that in this game deserves a medal.

vonb
18-07-2015, 08:19
If someone still unhappy with his FFB Settings, my settings work like a charm, even after Patch 2.0

Maurice Boeschen
18-07-2015, 08:34
Hi guys!
Just read this added feature in the 2.5 list:
Added accelerator slip vibration to the wheel rim of Fanatec wheels where available

Can you also add this accelerator slip vibration to the rumble motor on the throttle of the CSP v3? The new pedals can also have this feature, not only wheel rims :)

Hotty
18-07-2015, 11:46
Hallo Grimey
Thanks for your Setup,i have a Question you mean
Relative Gain 0.98 not 98
Relative adjust Bleed 0.14 not 14.
Gedding Hotty

Hotty
18-07-2015, 11:47
Hallo Grimey
Thanks for your Setup,i have a Question you mean
Relative Gain 0.98 not 98
Relative adjust Bleed 0.14 not 14.
Gredding Hotty

Nono
18-07-2015, 15:15
Well I tried them and I'll just say that they're not for me. With the exact settings from the .pdf the FFB is way too strong and harsh for me, with some strange sudden jerks of the wheel when nothing is really happening to the car. If people like them then please enjoy, but I prefer to stay close the the default settings for now :)


Argh, same here. To strong for my little arms and, especially, my old wrists. ;o) And I don't try to drive with just one hand on the wheel because the other is on the shifter, It's just impossible for me with these settings.
I prefere stay with a smouth Jake Spade setting.
But I learn a lot while reading your works anyway. And I will continue follow you Grimey !

Thanks again, it will never be enough said :tranquillity:

GrimeyDog
18-07-2015, 15:30
I tested over 7 hours. Unfortunatelly I've got continious FFB issues (total loss ect.). I've reset my profile a couple of times and I even deleted and reinstalled the game. So I cannot reproduce GrimeyDogs settings.

If I shift Dead Zone Removal Fall Off to 0.00 (all the way left) my wheel is collapsing terribely strong to the right when entering a Free Practice (in the PiT screen). When I start on track it's gone but feels strange and I can customize the car FFB (but if I stop on the track the colapse returns). When I shift the global setting "Dead Zone Removal Fall Off" one klick to the right (but still value 0.00) The wheel works fine.

However I'm far away from Grimeys amplitudes with the Ford Focus.

The Porsche is ok and works better.

Now I have to leave (frustrated :rolleyes: )for a few days and continue testing end of next week.

Go full Left to 0.00<--Wrong.... then Move 1 Click to the Right Correct -->0.00
I Dunno why there is 0.00(L) and (1 clk R) 0.00 wasnt thinking to mention that in my PDF

GrimeyDog
18-07-2015, 16:36
i like very strong FFB with Good Road feel ...you can turn the FFB down on your wheel and still keep the Road feel...im still learning all the FFB Variables & curves. We know the FFB Power is there, We Know the Road Feel is there the trick is to find a balance that fits all.

GrimeyDog
18-07-2015, 16:47
Hallo Grimey
Thanks for your Setup,i have a Question you mean
Relative Gain 0.98 not 98
Relative adjust Bleed 0.14 not 14.
Gedding Hotty

0.98
0.94

read the post on o.oo dead zone removal also.

Sankyo
18-07-2015, 17:36
Try the gym????!!!

Nope, when the FFB works against you instead of informing you what the car is doing, it's not useful anymore.

GrimeyDog
18-07-2015, 20:46
Nope, when the FFB works against you instead of informing you what the car is doing, it's not useful anymore.

Theres a Simple Solution when the FFB is Too Strong... Turn down the FFB on the Wheel(Best option), Turn Down the Tire Force or Reduce all Master Scale Settings until you get the FFB thats Right for you... No way around it Remco you gotta do your own Tweekin Too... LOL

How about that Arm Breakin Global FFB at 24!!! LOL there are Many Variables and Since we Dont have a Propper Chart to Determin what Global FFB at 50 is Equal to the 24 seems too Low Maybe Maybe Not More like Not because its Very Strong... its Trial and Error.

****Dead Zone Removal Fall Off setting*** I will Post a New PDF with the 0.00 <---Far Left(Wrong) and --> 0.00 1 Click to the Right(Correct)Snafu... I dont know why this Value appears 2x but it may Have Caused People to put in My settings Wrong and Not get the Propper FFB results because this setting is off... This is the Dead Zone Removal setting so it dirctly affects the wheel

GrimeyDog
18-07-2015, 23:40
Remco Van Dijk what are your thoughts on this?

The more i think about it it seems that PCars FFB is Set up Like CodeMasters FFB.

CodeMasters Has 3 Sliders (1) Force Feed Back (2) Wheel Weight (3) Environment... its just that all the Setting adjustments are already Balanced and Hidden behind the Sliders.

So it Seems that PCars FFB System could work the same.

1) Wheel weight = Tire Force
2) Force Feed Back = Force Feed Back
3) Environment = In Cars FFB Settings

Only Difference is we Can Tune all the Behind the Slider Settings to personal taste or to a Level that best works with our wheel.

This is only my theory and thoughts but it seems Very Logical that this could be the case...If this could be confirmed this would make tuning Very easy once you have the Proper Global Settings Dialed in.

If this question could be answered it would solve a lot of the FFB tuning Mystery.

Kain NL
19-07-2015, 13:12
Well I tried them and I'll just say that they're not for me. With the exact settings from the .pdf the FFB is way too strong and harsh for me, with some strange sudden jerks of the wheel when nothing is really happening to the car. If people like them then please enjoy, but I prefer to stay close the the default settings for now :)

Remco, you don't have a PS4 to test them on....there's something really weird going on with the ffb settings between the 3 platforms...if I try Grimeys settings on XOne they're totally of the charts...non usable...way too strong so feel is zero. With the new patch even the default settings for the Fanatec wheel don't work no more on XOne. No understeer feel, no wheel lock up feel etc....

As much as we ALL appreciate your help...we really do...you can't experience, for example ffb loss, if your not using the right platform.

Kain NL
19-07-2015, 13:27
****Dead Zone Removal Fall Off setting*** I will Post a New PDF with the 0.00 <---Far Left(Wrong) and --> 0.00 1 Click to the Right(Correct)Snafu... I dont know why this Value appears 2x but it may Have Caused People to put in My settings Wrong and Not get the Propper FFB results because this setting is off... This is the Dead Zone Removal setting so it dirctly affects the wheel

Where can I find this Grimey ?
And to me, the only thing that works to make the wheel feel to heavy, wanting to go back to centre to much, is just turn down wheel force till it feels right.

GrimeyDog
19-07-2015, 16:03
Where can I find this Grimey ?
And to me, the only thing that works to make the wheel feel to heavy, wanting to go back to centre to much, is just turn down wheel force till it feels right.

Thats in the Global Settings... Its with the Dead Zone Removal.... This tune was Made on and for the PS4 using the V2 wheel... other Platforms and wheels i cant Guarentee the Results but the V2 and PS4 the Tweek is Spot on!!!

its Very strong so if its too strong just turn down the FFB on the Wheel until its right for you... You wont lose any FFB effects as long as you leave the FOR on the wheel at 100... Thats the Beauty of the V2 you can Turn down the wheels Power/ Weight with out turning down the Feel of the FFB Forces Curbs/Bumps.

The Tweek will probably work but it will need to be tweeked for ither wheels and platforms.

GrimeyDog
19-07-2015, 16:04
Remco, you don't have a PS4 to test them on....there's something really weird going on with the ffb settings between the 3 platforms...if I try Grimeys settings on XOne they're totally of the charts...non usable...way too strong so feel is zero. With the new patch even the default settings for the Fanatec wheel don't work no more on XOne. No understeer feel, no wheel lock up feel etc....

As much as we ALL appreciate your help...we really do...you can't experience, for example ffb loss, if your not using the right platform.

Hhhhmmm??? Is this True???

Wi7cher
19-07-2015, 18:11
After 5 hours I adjusted the settings back to my standard settings. Suddenly the whole range of FFB was there it was amazing to feel first time a real FFB- see my first video.

But after going back to Edit Tuning Set-up and then back to track I lost all the subtle FFB again. It seems that this was a one-off result maybe caused by a FFB error in the game. With these settings I've never got before neither later such nice amplitudes and feedback on the wheel.
...
I changed just one setting but adjusted it directly back to the previous value and saved the same settings like before. But the FFB was lost and I was up to now not able to get it back with the same settings.

Fortunately I recorded everything in the second video.

Today, I have recorded the same behavior. In the first round,the FFB was great. After some restarts without anything changed the FFB was not the same, as you can see in the video from 03:00
http://youtu.be/jpfRVoSnmis

GrimeyDog
19-07-2015, 18:38
Today, I have recorded the same behavior. In the first round,the FFB was great. After some restarts without anything changed the FFB was not the same, as you can see in the video from 03:00
http://youtu.be/jpfRVoSnmis

Some times the game Does Not Load the FFB Correctly or it loads the FFB setting for a Different Car its a Known bug it a thread on it. once i Have my Final Global Settings i write them Down and Reset the Global and Program them in Fresh and dont touch them again unless i Have to. That Hasnt Happend to me in a while....i just plug in the in car settings Now if i see a Car has my old in car FFB settings.

GrimeyDog
19-07-2015, 18:48
Today, I have recorded the same behavior. In the first round,the FFB was great. After some restarts without anything changed the FFB was not the same, as you can see in the video from 03:00
http://youtu.be/jpfRVoSnmis

That Looks like Good FFB what Settings did you use??? thats a Momentary Glitch the FFB didnt load right... Minor Bug... a Fresh Restart Should fix that... Thats what usually Happens to my wheel befor i loose all FFB... It doesnt Happen often though 1 in every 15 or 20 runs or after multiple Restarts without backing out to the main dash board but mostly happens when i let the wheel sit idle for 10 or so minutes.

Titzon Toast
19-07-2015, 20:58
Today, I have recorded the same behavior. In the first round,the FFB was great. After some restarts without anything changed the FFB was not the same, as you can see in the video from 03:00
http://youtu.be/jpfRVoSnmis

I didn't know there was an assist that shows what direction and how severe the next turn is going to be.

gotdirt410sprintcar
19-07-2015, 22:05
???? I just recalibrated my wheel since the new patch now its like I am driving a semi with a triple trailer in tight turns. I was diving formula b. wheel sensitivity is set at 680 both on wheel and calibrated I have calibrated it at 900 still the same. When I turn it turns 90 degrees fine then I have to turn another half turn to get a response from wheel. all deadzones are zero any help thanks

Sankyo
20-07-2015, 07:13
???? I just recalibrated my wheel since the new patch now its like I am driving a semi with a triple trailer in tight turns. I was diving formula b. wheel sensitivity is set at 680 both on wheel and calibrated I have calibrated it at 900 still the same. When I turn it turns 90 degrees fine then I have to turn another half turn to get a response from wheel. all deadzones are zero any help thanks

You should set your wheel sensitivity to OFF (or AUT on latest CSW v2 firmware). Calibration must be done correctly as well (first turn wheel to full lock one side, and return to center, then in next step turn to 90 degrees and hold it there, press Finish).

Wi7cher
20-07-2015, 07:24
That Looks like Good FFB what Settings did you use??? thats a Momentary Glitch the FFB didnt load right... Minor Bug... a Fresh Restart Should fix that... Thats what usually Happens to my wheel befor i loose all FFB... It doesnt Happen often though 1 in every 15 or 20 runs or after multiple Restarts without backing out to the main dash board but mostly happens when i let the wheel sit idle for 10 or so minutes.

I have used the setting from "vonb" to compare them with yours.
In my case the game load the correct FFB in 1 of 15 or 20 runs. So I'm really messed up. I hope patch 3.0 will solve this Problem and will be released soon!

Sankyo
20-07-2015, 07:47
Remco, you don't have a PS4 to test them on....there's something really weird going on with the ffb settings between the 3 platforms...if I try Grimeys settings on XOne they're totally of the charts...non usable...way too strong so feel is zero. With the new patch even the default settings for the Fanatec wheel don't work no more on XOne. No understeer feel, no wheel lock up feel etc....

As much as we ALL appreciate your help...we really do...you can't experience, for example ffb loss, if your not using the right platform.
The different platforms use different FFB methods (because of Microsoft and Sony, not because of SMS) so the same hardware indeed will feel different on different platforms.

Pfeffernuss
20-07-2015, 07:48
That Looks like Good FFB what Settings did you use???

Wouldn't call that a good FFB setup as it's clipping like crazy, in almost every corner.

Sankyo
20-07-2015, 07:52
Remco Van Dijk what are your thoughts on this?

The more i think about it it seems that PCars FFB is Set up Like CodeMasters FFB.

CodeMasters Has 3 Sliders (1) Force Feed Back (2) Wheel Weight (3) Environment... its just that all the Setting adjustments are allready Balanced and Hidden behind the Sliders.

So it Seems that PCars FFB System could work the same.

1) Wheel weight = Tire Force
2) Force Feed Back = Force Feed Back
3) Environment = In Cars FFB Settings

Only Difference is we Can Tune all the Behind the Slider Settings to personal taste or to a Level that best works with our wheel.

This is only my theory and thoughts but it seems Very Logical that this could be the case...If this could be confirmed this would make tuning Very easy once you have the Propper Global Settings Dialed in.

Well it is a bit like that, but not completely. It looks like the Codemasters sliders separate car FFB from environment FFB, and the overall heaviness of the wheel as a third option. If it's like that, then it would look a bit like this:

1) Wheel weight = global FFB, but also tyre force and spindle master scale
2) Force Feed Back = tyre force + car FFB settings
3) Environment = no option to dial those, only the global FFB setting affects those, but not separately from wheel weight.

So you see that there aren't 3 separate sliders like that in pCARS as there is crosstalk between these categories when looking at how pCARS does FFB. For example, by lowering the tyre-related forces you will get relatively more FFB from the environment (e.g. collisions), of which you can then adjust the total weight by adjusting the global FFB.

Wi7cher
20-07-2015, 09:31
Wouldn't call that a good FFB setup as it's clipping like crazy, in almost every corner.

This is no clipping. Clipping is when the line stays at the very top. The FFB in the video indicates that the tires are loosing grip in the corners.

Sankyo
20-07-2015, 09:36
This is no clipping. Clipping is when the line stays at the very top. The FFB in the video indicates that the tires are loosing grip in the corners.
It is clipping for sure, as the signal peaks are flattened almost all the time when cornering, meaning that you lose information.

GrimeyDog
20-07-2015, 10:06
I have used the setting from "vonb" to compare them with yours.
In my case the game load the correct FFB in 1 of 15 or 20 runs. So I'm really messed up. I hope patch 3.0 will solve this Problem and will be released soon!

I Have Managed to Reproduce the Loss of Propper FFB after Restarting Multiple times or Going back to the Track from the in Car Tuning Menu with the Ford Focus Multiple Times Last Night... I dont Know if its a Random Glitch that Happens with just the Ford Focus or there are other Cars it happens with also... But in any case when that Happens Go back to the Tuning Pit and Reset your in Car FFB and put it back in Fresh... This seems to solve that Problem...that worked 5 of 5 trys for me.

Pekous
20-07-2015, 10:07
Hi guys, quick question.

I use a Fanatec CSR + clubsport V1 pedals. I've always had ABS rumble in the wheel but after the last update (2.5) I only have the rumble on the pedal but not in the wheel anymore, and when I'm out of the game the rumble is in the wheel as well.

Anybody knows why and how to fix this ?

Thank you.

GrimeyDog
20-07-2015, 10:39
It is clipping for sure, as the signal peaks are flattened almost all the time when cornering, meaning that you lose information.

I would offer a Different point of view to this Clipping problem... I argue that infact its Not Clipping it is the wheel is Not Capable of Picking up the FFB signal.

There are Many Variables How Fast is the Wheels Refresh Rate and What is the Lowest and Highest FFB Sensitivity that the wheels Hardware can pick up??? If any of these factors are off then it will apear in the FFB Meter that the wheel is Clipping but its Not... It just Simply is Not designed to pick up info below or above a Certain Range.

2) at what Rate does the game send info to the wheel??? If the Wheel Refresh Rate can Not keep up with the info that is sent to it that will also apear as Clipping but again the wheel is Not Clipping it just simply can Not Process the info because it can Not Keep up with all the info being sent to it.

I Have Tested all 3 wheels at the same levels and they all get Different FFB Meter Readings.... Remember the V2, Tx 458 and T300 wheels are Brushless Motor Tech the Refresh Rate and Response times are Much Much Faster than in the older wheels...The Brushless Motors also seem to pick up Much More Subtle Feel than the older Motors with Brushes which indicates the ability to pick up Higher/Lower FFB response ranges.... It is also Noted that this Clipping issue with older wheels seems to Happen Even at Low FFB Settings which indicates that the Problem Maybe User Harware related Not Game Related.
The V2 Does Not Have Clipping issues due to Higher Refresh Rate and Better Pick up of Low/High FFB signals.

its Like Tring to get a 1080p picture from a Tube TV that was built to play in 480p thats Not going to Happen... I See the FFB Clipping Issue the asbthe same the FFB is there just Not in HD... there Needs to be a Official SMS Guide that will point out what to expect from each wheel performance wise that explains FFB levels and How your wheels Refresh Rate and FFB signal sensitivity will affect performance of each specific wheel.

I Own and Have Tested all 3 wheels and they are Not all Equal FFB performance wise... all 3 with same Global and in Car settings get very different FFB level Readings... No Materr if the Global is set low or High. just my theory...jmo

MS did Not allow older wheel to work on the XB1 they said the older wheels would Not Keep up with the Demands of the New System... Maybe they were telling the Truth.

I also own a Tx 458 and T500 Pedals that i use with FM5 and i will say the FFB feel is Very Good!!! while Driving on Prague the Track Goes from Black top to Cobble Stone and you can Clearly feel the Difference between the 2!!! The Wheel Vibrates subtlely in your Hand as you would expect it to while driving on Cobble Stone Streets.

I dont own PCars for the XB1 so i cant tell you what or why the FFB is Good or Not Good on PCars with XB1...If SMS Would send me a Copy for XB1 i will Test it but im Not going to buy it... Nope... I allready Paud full Price to tweek PCars for PS4!!! Nope Not getting it unless its Free $$$ or Bug Free. LOL

Sankyo
20-07-2015, 11:08
I would offer a Different point of view to this Clipping problem... I argue that infact its Not Clipping it is the wheel is Not Capable of Picking up the FFB signal... There are Many Variables How Fast is the Wheels Refresh Rate and What is the Lowest and Highest FFB Sensitivity that the wheels Hardware can pick up??? If any of these factors are off then it will apear in the FFB Meter that the wheel is Clipping but its Not... It just Simply is Not designed to pick up info below or above a Certain Range.

2) at what Rate does the game send info to the wheel??? If the Wheel Refresh Rate can Not keep up with the info that is sent to it that will also apear as Clipping but again the wheel is Not Clipping it just simply can Not Process the info because it can Keep up.


Sorry no, this is not how it works. The clipping already happens when the FFB is calculated by the game, so before the wheel is involved. You can see clipping even when the FFB signal is changing very slowly, so it does not have anything to do with sensitivity or refresh rates.



I Have Tested all 3 wheels at the same levels and they all get Different FFB Meter Readings
As I said before, this is because there are wheel-dependent parameters that may influence the resulting FFB, plus each wheel uses its own internal driver to translate calculated FFB to actual FFB.


.... Remember the V2 and TM wheels are Brushless Motor Tech the Refresh Rate and Response times are Much Much Faster than in the older wheels...The Brushless Motors also seem to puck up Much More Subtle Feel than the older Motors with Brushes which indicates the ability to pick up Higher/Lower FFB response ranges.... It is also Noted that this Clipping issue with older wheels seems to Happen Even at Low FFB Settings which indicates that the Problem Maybe User Harware related Not Game Related.
If you reduce the tyre force or master spindle scale value, the signal will not clip anymore yet the FFB variation will stay the same, just without the flattened tops. That already shows that the wheel does not influence the clipping at all.

It is true, though, that lower-end wheels are less capable of producing subtle FFB signals because the motor isn't good enough. This has nothing to do with the FFB signal clipping in the FFB motor, however.


The V2 Does Not Have Clipping issues due to Higher Refresh Rate and Better Pick up of Low/High FFB signals.
I can easily make the CSW v2 clip by using 100 tyre force and 100 master spindle scale, which shows that clipping is related to calculated forces and not to the hardware design.




MS did Not allow older wheel to work on the XB1 they said the older wheels would Not Keep up with the Demands of the New System... Maybe they were telling the Truth.
Unfortunately, all 'old' wheels are perfectly capable of running on the XB1 just like they are able to run with the PC version of pCARS. There is no technical reason at all, just politics and money.

GrimeyDog
20-07-2015, 11:51
So i Gather From your post that Your saying SMS Did a Poor Job at Programming the FFB... other than that your answer expained Nothing Nor did it Offer any Credible Reason for the Clipping issue, a Solution or even a Possible Solution.

I am Speaking from Hands on and Testing with all 3 wheels... 4 if you count the TM 458 but i dont own PCars for XB1.

and Yes if the Clipping Happens Before the wheel that indicates a Problem with PCars FFB Programming...Their is No other way to explain that...and yes i too can get the V2 to Show clipping by putting in unreasonable FFB amounts...I run Tire Force at 98 i could do 100 but i Chose to set it at the Highest level that was set in the Global for the FFB Clamp...and I Get No Clipping. its is My opinion that the FFB issue is User Hardware related... As i said its like trying to get 1080p from a Tube TV that was built to play 480p... The FFB is there just Not in HD.

Clipping before the wheel = Poor FFB Programming No other way to explain it... Other than that what is the Reason and what is your solution?

Erwin Berkers
20-07-2015, 11:54
... Offer any Credible Reason for the Clipping issue, a Solution or even a Possible Solution...

In my opinion it is the use of terminology that keeps this discussion go round and around.

I think what you mean there are several way of loosing information. For clarity using the terminology as used in signal processing, since we talk about a signal originating from the physics engine (the sensor), and a signal being communicated over a channel with limited bandwidth (the platform dependent API).

1. Clipping is loss of information as a result of the signal being too strong for representation in the communicated channel, leading to distortion. The solution is scaling down the signal.

2. Quantisation noise leading to loss of detail. Values truncate after rounding by not fitting the resolution or precision of the channel. The result is that reconstructing the signal in the receiver yields a slightly different signal than before quantisation.

3. Shannon–Hartley theorem limiting the information rate, or bits per second. Although technical, noise may occur for packets loss without retransmitting, but this depends on the communication protocol. A given rate only allows a limited frequency range.

What to expect from a wheel is manufacturer dependent, and might event differ from wheel to wheel as a result of production variances and usage wear. What the wheel actually can represent is limited by its design, motor torque, inertia forces and acceleration.

Since SMS is producing the sensor part from the physics engine, I don’t see how they can influence the above mentioned factors since these are platform, driver, and wheel manufacturer dependent.

GrimeyDog
20-07-2015, 11:58
Its a Forum Remco Not a Colledge Class.... Terminology or word Symantics mean Nothing... You have to talk in English that Most people will understand.... There are many words that can be used to Clearly Express the same point...im posting from my phone so you will have to pardon my Grammer... LOL

GrimeyDog
20-07-2015, 12:28
My opinion is Yes SMS could Have done FFB programming that would be suitable for All wheels but that would mean Programming FFB for each Specific Wheel according to the Wheels Limits or the 2 Types of Motors that are used in the Wheels Now .

it is impossible to Program General FFB for all Wheels... This was Possible in the Past because all Wheels were the same just using different FW according to who made the Wheel... at this point to expect to get the same results with each Wheel with a Generic All Wheel FFB is Not Possible because Some Wheels are using Brushless Motors. There Must be different FFB programming for Brushless Motor Wheels and Wheels that Have Motors with Brushes.

Wi7cher
20-07-2015, 12:54
It is clipping for sure, as the signal peaks are flattened almost all the time when cornering, meaning that you lose information.
So there are 2 different types of clipping? 1. A flat line at the very top of the FFB Display. 2. Flattering Signal Peaks in the FFB display.

My question ist, how should be the FFB when my tires begin to loose the grip? Isn't there a vibration to feel at the wheel?

Sankyo
20-07-2015, 13:13
So there are 2 different types of clipping? 1. A flat line at the very top of the FFB Display. 2. Flattering Signal Peaks in the FFB display.
Both are the same really, it just depends on the type of FFB signal whether it is clipping all the time (#1) or that it alternates between clipping and non-clipping (#2).


My question ist, how should be the FFB when my tires begin to loose the grip? Isn't there a vibration to feel at the wheel?
You mean the understeer rumble. It should be there AFAIK, although I'm not sure whether it very much depends on the actual tyre. And when you really lose grip (e.g. front wheels locking, going over a crest) then the steering should go light.

Sankyo
20-07-2015, 13:23
So i Gather From your post that Your saying SMS Did a Poor Job at Programming the FFB...
No they didn't, they gave all the knobs to the user to customize the FFB for each personal preference and default settings that give decent FFB.


other than that your answer expained Nothing Nor did it Offer any Credible Reason for the Clipping issue, a Solution or even a Possible Solution.
FFB clips because the calculated forces are larger than the available dynamic range, which is caused by too large values for individual FFB components (tyre force, car FFB parameters). Turning those values down will get rid of clipping.



and Yes if the Clipping Happens Before the wheel that indicates a Problem with PCars FFB Programming...Their is No other way to explain that...
There is no problem with programming, as I said the FFB parameters determine whether the signal clips or not. If you turn those values too high, you'll get clipping.


and yes i too can get the V2 to Show clipping by putting in unreasonable FFB amounts...I run Tire Force at 98 i could do 100 but i Chose to set it at the Highest level that was set in the Global for the FFB Clamp...and I Get No Clipping.
That is because you set the car FFB parameters Fx/Fy/Fz/Mz low enough. If you raise those values, you get clipping, and then you can get rid of the clipping again by lowering the tyre force value.


its is My opinion that the FFB issue is User Hardware related... As i said its like trying to get 1080p from a Tube TV that was built to play 480p... The FFB is there just Not in HD.
I'm sorry, but your opinion is not correct. Turn tyre force or car FFB parameter values down when the FFB clips, and you'll see that the clipping disappears while the hardware is staying the same all the time. That shows that the hardware is not the problem, only the values that you put in.


Clipping before the wheel = Poor FFB Programming No other way to explain it... Other than that what is the Reason and what is your solution?
As I stated above, you as user have the freedom to tune the FFB, with the risk that you turn it up too much and it starts clipping. So simply tune those values so that the FFB doesn't clip. You could also experiment with the SoftClip value, but I have no experience with it so cannot assist there.

GrimeyDog
20-07-2015, 14:31
Exactly Remco... Now the Problem would be to Find a Happy Medium where older Fanatec Wheels could have Decent FFB feel and Reasonable FFB Strength... So as i said its a Problem with user Hardware and Knowing the Limits of the Wheel your using more than it is a issue with FFB Clipping.

My Gt2 wheel Does Not Clip it Simply Can Not Process the FFB info as well as the V2. No Matter what the FFB/Tire Force or in Car FFB levels are Set to...So yes it is Losing Data or Clipping only Because its older Technology and it Cant do what the New Brushless FFB Motors do.

So to Me its Not Really a Clipping issue...There is a Big Difference between your wheel Getting Too Much/Too Little FFB input and your Wheel Not being able to Pick up/Process or how ever you want to describe it due to the Limitations of the Wheels Hardware.

The Limits of the user Hardware with different Wheels Need to be Explained that would cure alot of Problems Regarding what i regard as Phantom Clipping issues.

WhoosierGirl
20-07-2015, 14:40
These are my FFB settings for my GT3 RS wheel, I can go as low as 12 on the tire force and still have great feedback. If I don't like the feel of a car I only change the in game tire force and in car master scale, if I get clipping I change the soft clipping half and full settings to fit the TF and master scale I like for each car. High tire force settings on "MY" GT3 wheel creates clipping and a very strong wheel with little feedback.

Steering Wheel Settings Fanatec GT3 RS


Sen OFF
FF 100
Sho 100
Drift OFF
ABS 100
Lin 000
Dea 000
Spr 0
Dpr 0


IN Game:


Deadzone 0
FF 100
Controller input mode 3
adv: off
Everything else as is.


Tire force: 25 (12-32 dependent on car)
per whl mov: 0
per whl mov sq: 0
whl pos smth: .04
dz rem rng: 0
dz rem fall off: 0
link scl: 0
link stf: 1.00
link dmp: 1.00
rel adj gain: 1.10
rel adj bleed: .10
rel adj clamp: .96
scoop kn: .70
scoop red: .16
sft clip hlf input: 1.20
sft clip ful input: 2.40

In car FFB, Ruf GT3

Spindle;
master: 34
Fx scale 90
Fy scale 30
Fz scale 160
Mz scale 80
Fx smooth 20
Fy smooth 0
Fz smooth 0
Mz smooth 0
Arm angle 1500

Body & SoP;
body scale 0.01
body long scl 0.01
body stiff 0.01
body damp 0.01
SoP: 34
SoP lat: 70
SoP dif: 160
SoP damp: 0

Erwin Berkers
20-07-2015, 14:45
You could also experiment with the SoftClip value, but I have no experience with it so cannot assist there.

Soft Clipping reduces the signal by keeping lower peaks in tact. Whereas scaling scales everything equally, Soft Clipping scales proportionally (or logarithmically), i.e., at the highest tops. Without soft scaling you may loose the nuances. You can compare it too making a photo; light on a sunny day has too large values for display on a monitor, and this range is successfully reduced by a process called tone mapping leaving the image details in tact but at the cost of lower dynamic range by bringing it into monitor range. With clipping the image would be pure white in the clouds without detail, whilst with scaling you remove most of the details in the dark and gray areas.

The effect is noticeable in the force feedback view as the tangent lines to the slopes becoming less steep or sharp.

GrimeyDog
20-07-2015, 14:57
These are my FFB settings for my GT3 RS wheel, I can go as low as 12 on the tire force and still have great feedback. If I don't like the feel of a car I only change the in game tire force and in car master scale, if I get clipping I change the soft clipping half and full settings to fit the TF and master scale I like for each car. High tire force settings on "MY" GT3 wheel create clipping and a very strong wheel with little feedback.

Steering Wheel Settings Fanatec GT3 RS


Sen OFF
FF 100
Sho 100
Drift OFF
ABS 100
Lin 000
Dea 000
Spr 0
Dpr 0


IN Game:


Deadzone 0
FF 100
Controller input mode 3
adv: off
Everything else as is.


Tire force: 25 (12-32 dependent on car)
per whl mov: 0
per whl mov sq: 0
whl pos smth: .04
dz rem rng: 0
dz rem fall off: 0
link scl: 0
link stf: 1.00
link dmp: 1.00
rel adj gain: 1.10
rel adj bleed: .10
rel adj clamp: .96
scoop kn: .70
scoop red: .16
sft clip hlf input: 1.20
sft clip ful input: 2.40

In car FFB, Ruf GT3

Spindle;
master: 34
Fx scale 90
Fy scale 30
Fz scale 160
Mz scale 80
Fx smooth 20
Fy smooth 0
Fz smooth 0
Mz smooth 0
Arm angle 1500

Body & SoP;
body scale 0.01
body long scl 0.01
body stiff 0.01
body damp 0.01
SoP: 34
SoP lat: 70
SoP dif: 160
SoP damp: 0

Bravo!!! See this is the Stuff People are Looking for Regarding FFB and Clipping!!! a usable Solution for those who may be having a problem Tweeking the FFB.

GrimeyDog
20-07-2015, 15:01
Soft Clipping reduces the signal by keeping lower peaks in tact. Whereas scaling scales everything equally, Soft Clipping scales proportionally (or logarithmically), i.e., at the highest tops. Without soft scaling you may loose the nuances. You can compare it too making a photo; light on a sunny day has too large values for display on a monitor, and this range is successfully reduced by a process called tone mapping leaving the image details in tact but at the cost of lower dynamic range by bringing it into monitor range. With clipping the image would be pure white in the clouds without detail, whilst with scaling you remove most of the details in the dark and gray areas.

The effect is noticeable in the force feedback view as the tangent lines to the slopes becoming less steep or sharp.

Excellent and Usable Explaination of Soft Clipping!!! Something that ordinary people can understand and apply to their FFB Tweeking...Well Said with No Fancy Word Play! Cheers.

killer2293
20-07-2015, 15:27
I just want to thank all of you for your work. I follow this thread and keep up with the great work that everyone does. The amount of time you all put into tweaking FFB is incredible. You guys are making a great game even better and for that I thank you. I was lucky enough to get my CSW V2 shipped to me this weekend and the difference between that wheel and the old GT2 I was using is ridiculous. I had no idea the technology has progressed so much in wheels.

rocafella1978
21-07-2015, 11:59
anyone know if Clubsport V3 Pedals + CSW V2 work on pCARS PS4? Fanatec says to ask game devs...

Sankyo
21-07-2015, 12:55
anyone know if Clubsport V3 Pedals + CSW V2 work on pCARS PS4? Fanatec says to ask game devs...
It will work, only the rumble motors support will come later.

rocafella1978
21-07-2015, 13:09
thank you Remco! appreciate your prompt clarification!

memoric77
22-07-2015, 08:44
These are my FFB settings for my GT3 RS wheel, I can go as low as 12 on the tire force and still have great feedback. If I don't like the feel of a car I only change the in game tire force and in car master scale, if I get clipping I change the soft clipping half and full settings to fit the TF and master scale I like for each car. High tire force settings on "MY" GT3 wheel creates clipping and a very strong wheel with little feedback.

Steering Wheel Settings Fanatec GT3 RS


Sen OFF
FF 100
Sho 100
Drift OFF
ABS 100
Lin 000
Dea 000
Spr 0
Dpr 0


IN Game:


Deadzone 0
FF 100
Controller input mode 3
adv: off
Everything else as is.


Tire force: 25 (12-32 dependent on car)
per whl mov: 0
per whl mov sq: 0
whl pos smth: .04
dz rem rng: 0
dz rem fall off: 0
link scl: 0
link stf: 1.00
link dmp: 1.00
rel adj gain: 1.10
rel adj bleed: .10
rel adj clamp: .96
scoop kn: .70
scoop red: .16
sft clip hlf input: 1.20
sft clip ful input: 2.40

In car FFB, Ruf GT3

Spindle;
master: 34
Fx scale 90
Fy scale 30
Fz scale 160
Mz scale 80
Fx smooth 20
Fy smooth 0
Fz smooth 0
Mz smooth 0
Arm angle 1500

Body & SoP;
body scale 0.01
body long scl 0.01
body stiff 0.01
body damp 0.01
SoP: 34
SoP lat: 70
SoP dif: 160
SoP damp: 0

will give it a try with my GT3 RS v2 and my Ruf GT3 ;)

GrimeyDog
22-07-2015, 08:52
This could be just me but PCars FFB Feels different after downloading the Free Car and Audi track pack... FFB feels Heavy and Lazy.... i dunno i deleted the whole Game going for fresh install.

memoric77
22-07-2015, 09:00
Remco, with my GT3 RS V2 I feel no ABS Rumble or Rumble by the Engine. This is how the game is designed for my Wheel? Which Wheel and Pedal supports these functions and works fine?

There are a handfull of Wheels on the Market, but it seems to be impossible to get them fully worked with this game. I am asking by myself, what happened the last three years and in the long Betaphase. In my Opinion, for every of the 5 supported Wheels there have to be a fixed config for every car. Only the intensity would have been able to change by the user. Now I am able to drive a GT3 Car like a Truck i.e. . I want to drive it like it feels in real.

Sankyo
22-07-2015, 13:07
Remco, with my GT3 RS V2 I feel no ABS Rumble or Rumble by the Engine. This is how the game is designed for my Wheel? Which Wheel and Pedal supports these functions and works fine?

Brake rumble should work with all wheels, on CSP. Not sure whether it only works for pedals through USB or also through wheel. The dev responsible for this is currently on holiday, so I'm probably not going to get a definitive answer for a while.

Fong74
22-07-2015, 13:48
This could be just me but PCars FFB Feels different after downloading the Free Car and Audi track pack... FFB feels Heavy and Lazy.... i dunno i deleted the whole Game going for fresh install.

Some of my fellow racers had the same issue after upgrading to v2.0 and getting into problems with assigning buttons. Our impression was that the savegame file got corrupted somehow. Re-installing the game solved that.

We strongly believe that deleting the savegame file will resolve such issues also. That would be like during the beta on the PC where the 'profile' (which also contained all user settings and savegames) had to be deleted to have the new version of the game creating new savegame files while starting up for the first time. This was done daily as there were daily Beta-builds...

So give it a try next time you expereince any issues in that context, Grimey. I will do it, too. Fingers crossed we don't need it, though.

As far as I am concerned, I have no issues with FFb after downlooading the DLC yesterday.


Remco, with my GT3 RS V2 I feel no ABS Rumble or Rumble by the Engine. This is how the game is designed for my Wheel? Which Wheel and Pedal supports these functions and works fine?

There are a handfull of Wheels on the Market, but it seems to be impossible to get them fully worked with this game. I am asking by myself, what happened the last three years and in the long Betaphase. In my Opinion, for every of the 5 supported Wheels there have to be a fixed config for every car. Only the intensity would have been able to change by the user. Now I am able to drive a GT3 Car like a Truck i.e. . I want to drive it like it feels in real.

One of my favourite nice-to-have issues, the brake pedal rumbling. I need to test this if I find some spare time as I still dont have it with my setup.


As for the second aspect you mention:
You surely are right when it comes to what the users expect the FFb to be. As realistic as it is in the real car. Unfortunately many effects displayed are not present in a real car. FFb is a trick to create the immersion of driving a real car. Let the wheel go on a straight in Pacars e.g. The thing will go crazy. Thats not what would happen in a real car. The reason is, that some of the effects displayed require the counter-force of your arms. If its not there the wheel behaves not as intended. That is something one should be aware of.

Every user has a different counter-force he wants to apply to the wheel, or feels comfortable with. So having options to tweak the FFb and understanding them may seem a huge task, but on the other hand, it opens the possibility for customizing it to ones personal liking.

SMS can only provide standard settings, that may suite some people. Lots of users will be more pleased with different settings. A really difficult topic from a development perspective imho... It gets even more complex if you have more wheels that are supported.

Correct me if Im wrong, Remco, but thats how I understand it currently.

As for the Beta phase I am not sure we are allowed to talk in public about progress, dates and problems that occured. I can tell you that the FFb was a huge topic at the end of the development phase of v1.0, the release version. I was surprised by the amount of problems people reported after launch in contrast to the efforts that were made in the beta phase. I was in the lucky position of having a CSW v2 which had almost no issues on PS4, which were directly related to the wheel itself.


p.s.:
@Grimey
I tested your tweaks and will report back as soon as I find some time. To sum up: I seem to be liking the tweeks with lower body scale values, or better, effects, more.

GrimeyDog
22-07-2015, 14:03
Fong74 Remember when putting in the Tweek there are 2x "0.00" dead zone removal settings "0.00" to the Full Left and "0.00" 1 click right of that this is the propper 0.00 setting to use. also i set the on wheel FFB to 85 as the Main one that i use most cars and i have the #2 setting on wheel FFB at 100 for cars that Need extra... other than that all wheel settings are Stock and have not been Changed.

Thanx i have deleted the old game info and Re-Installed it but i have yet to try it and see if the FFB is back to normal.

memoric77
22-07-2015, 14:03
Brake rumble should work with all wheels, on CSP. Not sure whether it only works for pedals through USB or also through wheel. The dev responsible for this is currently on holiday, so I'm probably not going to get a definitive answer for a while.

Ok, thx so far. I use the GT3 together with standard CSR Pedals. Maybe the Dev can tell which Hardware and combination exactly work together.

memoric77
22-07-2015, 14:22
Some of my fellow racers had the same issue after upgrading to v2.0 and getting into problems with assigning buttons. Our impression was that the savegame file got corrupted somehow. Re-installing the game solved that.

We strongly believe that deleting the savegame file will resolve such issues also. That would be like during the beta on the PC where the 'profile' (which also contained all user settings and savegames) had to be deleted to have the new version of the game creating new savegame files while starting up for the first time. This was done daily as there were daily Beta-builds...

So give it a try next time you expereince any issues in that context, Grimey. I will do it, too. Fingers crossed we don't need it, though.

As far as I am concerned, I have no issues with FFb after downlooading the DLC yesterday.



One of my favourite nice-to-have issues, the brake pedal rumbling. I need to test this if I find some spare time as I still dont have it with my setup.


As for the second aspect you mention:
You surely are right when it comes to what the users expect the FFb to be. As realistic as it is in the real car. Unfortunately many effects displayed are not present in a real car. FFb is a trick to create the immersion of driving a real car. Let the wheel go on a straight in Pacars e.g. The thing will go crazy. Thats not what would happen in a real car. The reason is, that some of the effects displayed require the counter-force of your arms. If its not there the wheel behaves not as intended. That is something one should be aware of.

Every user has a different counter-force he wants to apply to the wheel, or feels comfortable with. So having options to tweak the FFb and understanding them may seem a huge task, but on the other hand, it opens the possibility for customizing it to ones personal liking.

SMS can only provide standard settings, that may suite some people. Lots of users will be more pleased with different settings. A really difficult topic from a development perspective imho... It gets even more complex if you have more wheels that are supported.

Correct me if Im wrong, Remco, but thats how I understand it currently.

As for the Beta phase I am not sure we are allowed to talk in public about progress, dates and problems that occured. I can tell you that the FFb was a huge topic at the end of the development phase of v1.0, the release version. I was surprised by the amount of problems people reported after launch in contrast to the efforts that were made in the beta phase. I was in the lucky position of having a CSW v2 which had almost no issues on PS4, which were directly related to the wheel itself.


p.s.:
@Grimey
I tested your tweaks and will report back as soon as I find some time. To sum up: I seem to be liking the tweeks with lower body scale values, or better, effects, more.

@fong74 thx for explaining. I understand but IMHO a user has to feel confortable with the wheel how it feels in reality. Imho it couldnt be the demand to drive a ruf like a VW bug. The game is the only option to drive and feel those cars. That's what I expect about a simracing game.

And if you dont own the gt3, we could change and i take your csw v2 ;). An offer, you cant refuse ;).

GrimeyDog
22-07-2015, 14:44
When PCars 1st launched i was Very Disappointed and became Very Skeptical of SMS and If they could actually bring PCars up to the Standard that they said it would be... after a 2 updates while i am Very Cautious about getting My Hopes Too High i am Less Skeptical and Believe that if SMS continues their Current path of R & D with PCars that it can and will be All that was Promised.... I understand that it may take a while but i Think that PCars will be Complete in the end.... it will be 100% Bug Free 1 week before PCars 2 launches but Hey it is what it is... LMAO

GrimeyDog
22-07-2015, 16:17
@fong74 thx for explaining. I understand but IMHO a user has to feel confortable with the wheel how it feels in reality. Imho it couldnt be the demand to drive a ruf like a VW bug. The game is the only option to drive and feel those cars. That's what I expect about a simracing game.

And if you dont own the gt3, we could change and i take your csw v2 ;). An offer, you cant refuse ;).

With the Right FFB Settings and the V2 it Feels Close to the Real thing!!! I dont usually Drive Fast on Bumpy Roads in my Z but when i do it feels like using the V2 Driving the GT3 Ruff.... Vrooom Vrooom

VBR
22-07-2015, 17:02
After 1 hour of trying to get my wheel to work, & trying to get into a race, I had to give up. All I was trying to do was do a Quick Race, but first of all my wheel wasn't showing up in the Control menu, then it showed up as a Turbo S (even though it's a GT2) then it wasn't working, then it went off center again, then I got it working for a bit in Practice mode, then I tried a race but the FFB disappeared, them my pedals aren't recognized, then I can't calibrate them, then I can calibrate them, then the FFB disappears again, then the game crashes. That's the short version, but things like this were going on for 1 hour, then I gave up. Couldn't even get one race in.

Project CARS on a PS4 with a Fanatec GT2 & G25 pedals has been the single worst gaming experience of my entire life bar none. No exaggeration. However, when it does work for a few minutes & I get to drive a car for a few laps, it is utterly brilliant. This game has so much awesome & so much fail in equal measure. It's taking ambivalence to a whole new level!

Sankyo
22-07-2015, 20:15
After 1 hour of trying to get my wheel to work, & trying to get into a race, I had to give up. All I was trying to do was do a Quick Race, but first of all my wheel wasn't showing up in the Control menu, then it showed up as a Turbo S (even though it's a GT2) then it wasn't working, then it went off center again, then I got it working for a bit in Practice mode, then I tried a race but the FFB disappeared, them my pedals aren't recognized, then I can't calibrate them, then I can calibrate them, then the FFB disappears again, then the game crashes. That's the short version, but things like this were going on for 1 hour, then I gave up. Couldn't even get one race in.

Project CARS on a PS4 with a Fanatec GT2 & G25 pedals has been the single worst gaming experience of my entire life bar none. No exaggeration. However, when it does work for a few minutes & I get to drive a car for a few laps, it is utterly brilliant. This game has so much awesome & so much fail in equal measure. It's taking ambivalence to a whole new level!

Did you reset your wheel settings, then assign and calibrate your wheel and pedals? What firmware is your GT2 on?

titou09
22-07-2015, 22:15
Did you reset your wheel settings, then assign and calibrate your wheel and pedals? What firmware is your GT2 on?
I don'T know for a GT2, but with a GT3RS v2, . on PS4 and pCars (since v1.0 up to v2.0), calibrating the pedals breaks "everything" : you loose R2/L2 then after calibrating the wheel, the wheel jerks like hell event at 30km/h on straight line. had to "reset" the wheel settings and do not "calibrate" anythibg on the wheel to have the wheel barely usable (ie FFB feelings, after having tried almost all the setup for FFB from the forums)

Kain NL
22-07-2015, 22:33
It will work, only the rumble motors support will come later.

Remco,

Do you've got the CSP V3 to beta test?

GrimeyDog
23-07-2015, 03:30
Hhhmmm... I dont Know what but Something Has Changed with the PS4 after the 2.57 update... Theyre Not saying anything about it but it improves stability when using certain features...For Some Strange Reason my Wheel FFB feels outta wack am i the only 1... Very Strange Same Cars and Tracks i always run and the FFB is very different... I Reset wheel and un-installed and Re-installed pCars and Still FFB feels outta wack...Screw it... Im done with this FFB thing for Now. . Gonna Enjoy the Lazy Life and Play F1...Im just very puzzled as to what Changed Plus the Wheel Feels Even Stronger ... i Have wheel FFB at 85 and in game FFB at 24 i changed Nothing and the Last 2 days the FFB feel is Totally Off. Sony Must have Changed the out out strength of the USB port with the New update is my best guess... Serching the web and there is No info about what the update Fixed, Changed, improved etc. any 1 here know what the update was for?

Funny thing is Now the Default FFB feels alot better...and My FFB Tweek feels out of wack. any one else Notice the wheel feeling Different... i Noticed this yesterday and just shrugged it off thinking im having a bad Night and cant keep it on the Road... But i did a Fresh install just to make sure to day im sure somthing changed i just dont know what.

Sankyo
23-07-2015, 07:12
Remco,

Do you've got the CSP V3 to beta test?

Yes.

VBR
23-07-2015, 10:11
Did you reset your wheel settings, then assign and calibrate your wheel and pedals? What firmware is your GT2 on?

It's impossible to calibrate a wheel when, like I said already, the control menu isn't showing up! Then when it does decide to show up, it's the Turbo S menu (my wheel is a Fanatec GT2). If you'd read my entire post you would've realised that I managed to get it kind of sorted in the end. I have no problems on GT6 with this set up, except the pedals sometimes need to be plugged back in to be recognized, apart from that it's all plain sailing in that game. Project CARS on the other hand is literally unplayable most of the times I'm feeling brave enough to endure another round of bugs.

Firmware is 756.


:(

Fong74
23-07-2015, 10:13
Hhhmmm... I dont Know what but Something Has Changed with the PS4 after the 2.57 update... Theyre Not saying anything about it but it improves stability when using certain features...For Some Strange Reason my Wheel FFB feels outta wack am i the only 1... Very Strange Same Cars and Tracks i always run and the FFB is very different... I Reset wheel and un-installed and Re-installed pCars and Still FFB feels outta wack...Screw it... Im done with this FFB thing for Now. . Gonna Enjoy the Lazy Life and Play F1...Im just very puzzled as to what Changed Plus the Wheel Feels Even Stronger ... i Have wheel FFB at 85 and in game FFB at 24 i changed Nothing and the Last 2 days the FFB feel is Totally Off. Sony Must have Changed the out out strength of the USB port with the New update is my best guess... Serching the web and there is No info about what the update Fixed, Changed, improved etc. any 1 here know what the update was for?

Funny thing is Now the Default FFB feels alot better...and My FFB Tweek feels out of wack. any one else Notice the wheel feeling Different... i Noticed this yesterday and just shrugged it off thinking im having a bad Night and cant keep it on the Road... But i did a Fresh install just to make sure to day im sure somthing changed i just dont know what.

You are the first one I know to report this. My FFb is like before the v2.0 update I would say. No difference, maybe some slight differences in the details section. But to the better is my impression. I couldnt name them though, so maybe its only a placebo...

Dont worry, Grimey. Take it easy for some time. You have been tweaking a lot for weeks. So taking a break is surely a good thing imho.

With the next update we should get the new FFB-options and the possibility to reset FFb-Settings based either on v1.4 or v2.0 presets. That should be a nice thing if it works flawlessly.

Fong74
23-07-2015, 10:15
It's impossible to calibrate a wheel when, like I said already, the control menu isn't showing up! Then when it does decide to show up, it's the Turbo S menu (my wheel is a Fanatec GT2).

When did you turn the wheel on? Already when sitting in the PS4 menu before launching the game? Or when the welcome screen showed up asking you to press X to continue?

Maybe try the alternative to what you have been doing so far...

VBR
23-07-2015, 10:18
When did you turn the wheel on? Already when sitting in the PS4 menu before launching the game? Or when the welcome screen showed up asking you to press X to continue?

Maybe try the alternative to what you have been doing so far...

I turn the wheel on & put it into PC Mode as always before launching the game.

GrimeyDog
23-07-2015, 10:48
You are the first one I know to report this. My FFb is like before the v2.0 update I would say. No difference, maybe some slight differences in the details section. But to the better is my impression. I couldnt name them though, so maybe its only a placebo...

Dont worry, Grimey. Take it easy for some time. You have been tweaking a lot for weeks. So taking a break is surely a good thing imho.

With the next update we should get the new FFB-options and the possibility to reset FFb-Settings based either on v1.4 or v2.0 presets. That should be a nice thing if it works flawlessly.

Its Not the PCars 2.0 update... Sony pushed out a update 2.57 to the consoles... they Changed something with the PS4 its self...only info was its supposed to make the PS4 more stable.... Good thing is The Default PCars FFB Feels better Now. i guess i will just stick with that...The FFB Change i Noticed has Nothing to do with pCars. i think its the sony 2.57 update that changed some thing... Maybe it will make the other wheels feel better... I Had some High in car Settings so i can get good weight transfer feel but after the sony PS4 2.57 update my settings are off. I dunno.... But the Good is the Default pCars FFB feels much better to me Now so maybe No Need to tweek Global FFB any more.

Kain NL
23-07-2015, 10:54
Yes.

If you test rumble on fanatec test app on pc...how is the rumble for you?
Mine is so weak I can HARDLY feel it!!! I see the motors spinning but little to no vibrations !!!

Sankyo
23-07-2015, 11:15
If you test rumble on fanatec test app on pc...how is the rumble for you?
Mine is so weak I can HARDLY feel it!!! I see the motors spinning but little to no vibrations !!!
Indeed, I only feel the rumble through the frame of my race seat, not through the pedal itself. I already mentioned this to Fanatec.

Kain NL
23-07-2015, 11:43
Indeed, I only feel the rumble through the frame of my race seat, not through the pedal itself. I already mentioned this to Fanatec.


What seat do you've got? I've got a RSeat RS1....but don't feel it in the frame either...if I hook up the V2's the brake rumble is felt inthe back of my leg!!

Sankyo
23-07-2015, 11:47
What seat do you've got? I've got a RSeat RS1....but don't feel it in the frame either...if I hook up the V2's the brake rumble is felt inthe back of my leg!!
I'm currently using the Fanatec CSL.

GrimeyDog
23-07-2015, 14:58
If you test rumble on fanatec test app on pc...how is the rumble for you?
Mine is so weak I can HARDLY feel it!!! I see the motors spinning but little to no vibrations !!!

The pedals are Not Gonna Work Right Yet... The FW for them Has Not Been Released yet... Remember the Into video they showed the Brake Rumble can be controled from the wheel tuning Menu...We dont have that feature in FW 94.

My pedals ship Aug 31st hopefully... the FW will prob get released right before FM6... yup i pre ordered Mine allready.

Maurice Boeschen
23-07-2015, 15:17
The pedals are Not Gonna Work Right Yet... The FW for them Has Not Been Released yet... Remember the Into video they showed the Brake Rumble can be controled from the wheel tuning Menu...We dont have that feature in FW 94.

My pedals ship Aug 31st hopefully... the FW will prob get released right before FM6... yup i pre ordered Mine allready.

well, the brf setting is in, but it will only displayed if the pedals are connected to the wheel ^^

GrimeyDog
23-07-2015, 16:03
well, the brf setting is in, but it will only displayed if the pedals are connected to the wheel ^^

Aaaah Haaaa!!! Ok i didnt know that... im still using the V1 pedals...Thats why i dont see that feature... thanx for the info... Do the Pedals still have the Brake adjust Knob on them???

Kain NL
23-07-2015, 17:00
The pedals are Not Gonna Work Right Yet... The FW for them Has Not Been Released yet... Remember the Into video they showed the Brake Rumble can be controled from the wheel tuning Menu...We dont have that feature in FW 94.

My pedals ship Aug 31st hopefully... the FW will prob get released right before FM6... yup i pre ordered Mine allready.

Grimey...I guess you're wrong...when V3's hooked I've got a new one...BRF!!!

darkeldar70
23-07-2015, 17:08
hi im not able to find the setup of Grimey that sounds good for gt3 and ps4 please help me

Kain NL
23-07-2015, 17:10
You can adjust it in another way mate...just download the full V3 manual on Fanatec site mate! It's really comprehensively!!!

Remco, I already posted my problem on the blogs....should I also report it to support...in means of the more the better ? Or is it okay othis way.

Hotty
23-07-2015, 18:12
Hallo!!
After much FFB testing,i take now Jack Spades FFB Settings Clasic and exact Wheel Settings from his FFB Thread on
PS 4 after Patch 2.57 with CSW V2 and CSR Elite Pedals.It works so fine,you can feel every difference from the FFB
without any Clipping,every Car feels different it is such a great Fun to drive.Test it you will like it so much.For me it
works Perfect.Gredding Hotty.:cool::o:surprise:

GrimeyDog
23-07-2015, 18:19
Grimey...I guess you're wrong...when V3's hooked I've got a new one...BRF!!!

Yup i was wrong i thought it wasn't there because i cant see it with the V1's.... BRF??? im lost???

Kain NL
23-07-2015, 18:47
But they still don't work...set from 30-100..NOTHING !!! LOL

Kain NL
23-07-2015, 19:12
I would also like to share some FFB settings for the Fanatec V2. They are much lighter than Grimey's but it made me able to drive faster in a very short time!!!

Platform: PS4

Car: BMW 1M PROCAR. Track: Zolder

Wheel tuning menu. Fw 094

Sen: Aut
FF: 100
Sho:100
ABS: off
Lin: off
Dea: off
Dri: 03
For: 100
Spr: 100
Dpr: off

Global settings control configuration.

Deadzones and sensitivity the way you like m.
Speed sens: 0
Controller filtering sen: 0
Damper saturation: 0
FFB: 66
Cim: 3
Advanced:
Soft steering damp: On
Visual wheel filtering: On
Opposite Lock help: Off

Controls Calibrate FFB screen.

TF: 37
Linkage stiff: 1.00
Relative adjust gain: 0.98
Relative adjust bleed: 0.34
Relative adjust clamp: 0.96
Scoop knee: 0.70
Scoop red: 0.15

In car/pit box FFB settings.

Master scale: 90
Fx: 46
Fy: 66
Fz: 98
Mz: 72.01
Arm Angle: 1500

FFB body and Sop screen.

SoP scale: 90
SoP lateral: 50
SoP diff scale: 80

Everything not mentioned is 0 (or 0.01 default settings)
Got my tire pressure around 1.34. Give the tires about 3 to 4 laps to warm up...after that...I feel every tiny thing the car does!!! AND don't forget to pause game and restart the V2 base to be sure it's these settings used!!!

And off course THANX to Grimey for the main settings!!!

Kain NL
23-07-2015, 20:12
Grimey your latest settings, for the Ruf GT3 , are exquisite!!!!!!!!
I turned down the Master and SoP Scale to 86.
TF turned down to 37 and Global FFB turned up to 66 !!!
Cause that's lighter and I don't feel like I'm continuasly fighting the wheel.

You should be called FFB TOP DOG in stead of Grimey. LOL

Edit: Went to the Zolder track with the Ruf GT3 cause I know that track way better and there are really fast turns in it so you can feel the front wheel fighting for grip better.
Adjusted the Master and SoP Scale to 90.
Turned up Fx to 8.01
Turned up Fy to 42
Turned up Fz to 116
Turned down Mz to 94.01

Feels great now!!!

Sankyo
23-07-2015, 20:33
Remco, I already posted my problem on the blogs....should I also report it to support...in means of the more the better ? Or is it okay othis way.
Posting it on the blog is good for now, I'll keep an eye on it and nudge the Fanatec devs as well about it.

Kain NL
23-07-2015, 20:45
Okay Remco..thanx for reply.

GrimeyDog
23-07-2015, 21:15
Grimey your latest settings, for the Ruf GT3 , are exquisite!!!!!!!!
I turned down the Master and SoP Scale to 86.
TF turned down to 37 and Global FFB turned up to 66 !!!
Cause that's lighter and I don't feel like I'm continuasly fighting the wheel.

You should be called FFB TOP DOG in stead of Grimey. LOL

Edit: Went to the Zolder track with the Ruf GT3 cause I know that track way better and there are really fast turns in it so you can feel the front wheel fighting for grip better.
Adjusted the Master and SoP Scale to 90.
Turned up Fx to 8.01
Turned up Fy to 42
Turned up Fz to 116
Turned down Mz to 94.01

Feels great now!!!

Thats what Tweeking all about... Get a Good Feel then Tweek them to match your personal taste.

gruzzlebeard
23-07-2015, 21:51
.....
AND don't forget to pause game and restart the V2 base to be sure it's these settings used!!!
...

Thanks a lot for your settings and testing efforts. What do you mean with pause game and restart? Pressing option button when on track and switch off and on the wheel?

Pappa_Stig
24-07-2015, 04:13
Hey guys I'm wondering how well the Fanatec wheels are working now? I read so much about the bugs in Pcars with the Fanatec wheels, but then some people seem to be enjoying the game quite a lot with their wheels. Are certain wheels working better than others? In particular, I'm interested in how well the CSR Forza wheel is working. I've managed to score one in very good condition quite cheap, with CSP V1s.

I'm hoping to use the wheel with Pcars, as a game this realistic just isn't as enjoyable with a pad. I feel like I'm missing out on so much of the depth of the physics by playing with a pad.

Edit: To clarify, I haven't picked up the wheel yet. I'm buying it off a friend, and picking it up in a couple of weeks time. That's why I'm asking. If I had it already I'd just put the game on and find out for myself lol.

Kain NL
24-07-2015, 04:52
Thanks a lot for your settings and testing efforts. What do you mean with pause game and restart? Pressing option button when on track and switch off and on the wheel?

Yeah, that's what I meant, cause I noticed MULTIPLE times I lost total FFB when changing the global settings like FFB and TF and go racing again.

Linx
24-07-2015, 06:05
Hey guys I'm wondering how well the Fanatec wheels are working now? I read so much about the bugs in Pcars with the Fanatec wheels, but then some people seem to be enjoying the game quite a lot with their wheels. Are certain wheels working better than others? In particular, I'm interested in how well the CSR Forza wheel is working. I've managed to score one in very good condition quite cheap, with CSP V1s.

I'm hoping to use the wheel with Pcars, as a game this realistic just isn't as enjoyable with a pad. I feel like I'm missing out on so much of the depth of the physics by playing with a pad.

Edit: To clarify, I haven't picked up the wheel yet. I'm buying it off a friend, and picking it up in a couple of weeks time. That's why I'm asking. If I had it already I'd just put the game on and find out for myself lol.
I have Forza CSR with Elite pedals and am very happy with it. And after patch 2.0 my only complaint about Pcars is tune set ups not saving but there's a work around for that and it should get fixed in due time. I'm running Grimey's settings and the only thing I did different is set the fy scale to 4.00 instead of 30 (I believe) and it's working great. And from my observing all the complaints of wheels and FFB it seems CSR has the least complaints. I think you'll be happy. Oh I also turned down my wheel FFB to 70-80 and drift setting to 1-2. The drift setting made everything more smooth. Another thing I noticed is when I first put in Grimey's settings I would get occasional jerks in the wheel. Nothing deal breaking but it was there. But the wierd thing is after playing a few days those jerks seemed to smooth its self out. Now I sometimes feel it but it's very lite and it might actually be bumps in the road and not actual jerks. This smoothing itself out thing has happened twice. Once when I put in Grimey's previous settings and also now with his newest settings. But I'm very happy with my CSR setup

Pappa_Stig
24-07-2015, 12:40
I have Forza CSR with Elite pedals and am very happy with it. And after patch 2.0 my only complaint about Pcars is tune set ups not saving but there's a work around for that and it should get fixed in due time. I'm running Grimey's settings and the only thing I did different is set the fy scale to 4.00 instead of 30 (I believe) and it's working great. And from my observing all the complaints of wheels and FFB it seems CSR has the least complaints. I think you'll be happy. Oh I also turned down my wheel FFB to 70-80 and drift setting to 1-2. The drift setting made everything more smooth. Another thing I noticed is when I first put in Grimey's settings I would get occasional jerks in the wheel. Nothing deal breaking but it was there. But the wierd thing is after playing a few days those jerks seemed to smooth its self out. Now I sometimes feel it but it's very lite and it might actually be bumps in the road and not actual jerks. This smoothing itself out thing has happened twice. Once when I put in Grimey's previous settings and also now with his newest settings. But I'm very happy with my CSR setup


Cheers for the quick reply mate, much appreciated. I'm glad to hear these wheels work well.

I'm getting the wheel for $150aud used from a friend who only used it for a few months, and getting the CSP V1s for $100aud off another friend who's GT3rs broke due to him going a little over the top modding the ffb lol. So all up I'm only paying $250, which works out to less than 120 pounds. I can't wait to play this game with a wheel!

Fong74
24-07-2015, 13:05
Congrats for that deal! Sounds very good :yes:

Fanatest
25-07-2015, 08:36
New firmware out:
http://www.fanatec.com/forum/categories/blog

Grab it while it's hot :D

VBR
25-07-2015, 10:11
New firmware out:
http://www.fanatec.com/forum/categories/blog

Grab it while it's hot :D

Will this make any improvements for my GT2 in Project CARS? Or will it just break it even more?

Anyone willing to be a guinea pig!


:p

-Brick_Top-
25-07-2015, 10:17
Will this make any improvements for my GT2 in Project CARS? Or will it just break it even more?

Anyone willing to be a guinea pig!


:p

Don't think it will make any difference only mentions new firmware for csw v1's and v2's

VBR
25-07-2015, 12:56
Don't think it will make any difference only mentions new firmware for csw v1's and v2's

It also mentions; "Various minor code improvements and updates", So maybe there is something that will help GT2 owners in Project CARS. Unless all the problems with these wheels are down to SMS & not Fanatec?

-Brick_Top-
25-07-2015, 13:31
It also mentions; "Various minor code improvements and updates", So maybe there is something that will help GT2 owners in Project CARS. Unless all the problems with these wheels are down to SMS & not Fanatec?

Code improvements and updates I believe are for the driver. It cant make any difference to wheel without a firmware (for ps4 users that is obviously driver can make a difference for pc users).
Don't know about your specific wheel / problems but for me with the right ffb settings the wheel is fine with pcars. Except it still crashes the game if I turn off wheel. I assume sms are aware this is still like many other bugs not properly fixed

Fong74
25-07-2015, 13:33
@VBR:
I thought that CSWs had a different firmware than all the other Fanatecs (CSR, GT2, GT3, PWTS). So I was not assuming you could use the upper one for those wheels at all.

Correct me if Im wrong pls...

EDIT:
Its for all listed wheels. Just read it in Thomas blog...

Supported devices

Wheels:
ClubSport Wheel Base V2
ClubSport Wheel Base
CSR Wheel
CSR Elite Wheel
Porsche GT2 Wheel
Porsche GT3 V2 Wheel
Porsche Wheel Turbo S

-Brick_Top-
25-07-2015, 13:54
@VBR:
I thought that CSWs had a different firmware than all the other Fanatecs (CSR, GT2, GT3, PWTS). So I was not assuming you could use the upper one for those wheels at all.

Correct me if Im wrong pls...

EDIT:
Its for all listed wheels. Just read it in Thomas blog...

Supported devices

Wheels:
ClubSport Wheel Base V2
ClubSport Wheel Base
CSR Wheel
CSR Elite Wheel
Porsche GT2 Wheel
Porsche GT3 V2 Wheel
Porsche Wheel Turbo S

That's the driver that supports all wheels.
The download is driver for all wheels listed and also lists what updated firmware is included for What wheels. So as I see it there is no updated firmware for any wheel other than csw's.
The pc driver is updated for all.