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VBR
25-07-2015, 14:32
It's all quite confusing!


:confused:

-Brick_Top-
25-07-2015, 14:41
It's all quite confusing!


:confused:

Lol

The one file is two things
Firmware
And driver
To put it as crude as I can
The firmware is flashed to your hardware (eeprom)
If you install the new file then run it and tell it to update your wheel I'm guessing since it doesn't mention a firmware update for your wheel it will say your wheel is up to date (Provided the current firmware on your wheel is the last one that was released). Where as for csw owners it will perform an update of the firmware.

Firmware is the software that runs on the device. A driver is the software that tells your operating system how to communicate with the device.

Therefore If you don't use your wheel on pc and there is no updated firmware for your wheel (which it doesn't specifically mention) it will make no difference to you.
As I understand it although you could just give it a go and see

Fong74
25-07-2015, 15:28
Thanks for the explanation Brick Top.

I have missed to mention the following info:

New firmwares included:
- CSW V1 base: CSW_Base_V109_rev535_boot_beta
- CSW V2 base: CSW_V2_Base_V110_rev536_boot_beta


So its only for the named wheels this time...

gruzzlebeard
25-07-2015, 17:12
I updated my CSW V2 with driver 222 and the wheel display shows now 110 as firmware. So far there are no issues with this new Fanatec update. But unfortunately it doesn't improve the mess with Pcars FFB settings, savings and total or partial loss of FFB forces during practises.

Elmo
25-07-2015, 18:15
At the moment we don't support double button assignments for one action. We look into it in the future.

Redslayer
25-07-2015, 18:31
I seem to be getting the no Force feedback bug more and more often again.

gruzzlebeard
26-07-2015, 07:32
I discovered the issues mainly after adjusting the "Wheel Movement..." and "Relative Adjust..." settings in the In-game FFB calibration. I've now my settings fixed and I've no issues anymore (but currently I'm just testing in Free Practise tracks).

Additionally I followed Fong74's recommendation to switch the wheel on already in the PS4 menue and not in the Pcars start screen. I've the impression it works more stable too.

gruzzlebeard
26-07-2015, 07:46
...
Advanced:
Soft steering damp: On
Visual wheel filtering: On
...


Can somebody tell me what the two settings are good for :confused:?

gruzzlebeard
26-07-2015, 08:08
I finished now my testing with GrimeyDogs set-up guide. I achieved similar FFB curves in the telemetry data screen for the Ruf GT3 and the Ginett but not for the Ford.

The subtle FFB of the Focus RS was totally inconsistent from one stint to the other (same track) even without changing the settings - just pitting and back to track. From one track to another it was also totally different. I deleted and reinstalled the game, I deleted dozens of times my Pcars Driver profile and re-calibrated my wheel - nothing helps.

Here you can see the telemetry data in the first stint:
213336

Here the result after exit and re-entry the free practise (no changes in settings):
213337

Pfeffernuss
26-07-2015, 08:15
Here you can see the telemetry data in the first stint:

Maybe the FFB software needed some well deserved rest after the massive amounts of clipping? :p

gruzzlebeard
26-07-2015, 09:36
Maybe the FFB software needed some well deserved rest after the massive amounts of clipping? :p

You're right :D. But I just want to check if I can get the same FFB results 2 times in a row with the same settings. And obviously I'm getting different results according to theese telemetry data.

I don't care about clipping for the moment. This is very concerning. Do you have an explanation for that?

Pfeffernuss
26-07-2015, 10:46
This is very concerning. Do you have an explanation for that?
Wish I had... Also sometimes experiencing sudden loss of FFB altogether. Restarting does the trick. What triggers this bug I have no idea about...

MG0902
26-07-2015, 14:37
Can someone help me with a proper Fanatec CSR FFB setting? im kind a lost at the moment...
I've tried lowering the TF and FFB settings.I also changed the FFB settings per car, but I still keep struggeling with clipping, or the wheel feels way to light for me, or it's very jerky...

I'm on a PS4 2.57 and have the pcars 2.0 version.

I've used Jack spade 66% but its clipping and it's very jerky after 2.0
Thx

Edit: I've just tried grimey dog's tweek, but it isn't working for me. It's going from left to right on a straight very hard, and it's clipping. Lowerd mz scale ect ect..

Redslayer
26-07-2015, 16:10
Can someone help me with a proper Fanatec CSR FFB setting? im kind a lost at the moment...
I've tried lowering the TF and FFB settings.I also changed the FFB settings per car, but I still keep struggeling with clipping, or the wheel feels way to light for me, or it's very jerky...

I'm on a PS4 2.57 and have the pcars 2.0 version.

I've used Jack spade 66% but its clipping and it's very jerky after 2.0
Thx

Edit: I've just tried grimey dog's tweek, but it isn't working for me. It's going from left to right on a straight very hard, and it's clipping. Lowerd mz scale ect ect..

Turn your "Drift" setting down if it's on, and it'll help with the left to right sway. But aside from that, I haven't found any really good settings for my CSR. Every time I change the global settings everything goes to shit. So I leave it on default, and changed the per car settings.

MG0902
26-07-2015, 16:21
Turn your "Drift" setting down if it's on, and it'll help with the left to right sway. But aside from that, I haven't found any really good settings for my CSR. Every time I change the global settings everything goes to shit. So I leave it on default, and changed the per car settings.

Lol .. That could work... I've just turned that one "on" just to try, but forgot to turn it off.. I'll give it a try...
Would you give me a car FFB wich you like?

Redslayer
26-07-2015, 16:28
Lol .. That could work... I've just turned that one "on" just to try, but forgot to turn it off.. I'll give it a try...
Would you give me a car FFB wich you like?

Been running these :

Master scale: 40
Fx scale: 64.01
Fy scale: 64.01
Fz scale: 104.00
Mz scale: 92.00

No smoothing at all,and leave the arm angle where it is until you test drive

Body settings leave as they are

Sop scale: 40
Sop lateral scale: 60
Sop differential: 60
Sop damping: 0.0


Some cars feel better than others. It's not perfect, but it feels pretty decent. Some cars (Like Formula A) require some extra tweaking. Might need to run some drift setting for a lot of cars so you can save spins. But Formula A and any drift setting besides "OFF" ends in impossible straight line control, as the wheel pivots uncontrollably left to right as soon as you straighten the car out. I haven't testing any LMP cars yet (I am literally about to drive the Merek P1 for the first time after I post this. lol).

I don't really like heavy FFB, so you may to adjust the master scale or the on wheel FFB depending on whether you want it stronger or weaker (I run 80 at the wheel). I'd say try it on one car first before you go to changing the others.

2stains
27-07-2015, 03:32
Can someone help me with a proper Fanatec CSR FFB setting? im kind a lost at the moment...
I've tried lowering the TF and FFB settings.I also changed the FFB settings per car, but I still keep struggeling with clipping, or the wheel feels way to light for me, or it's very jerky...

I'm on a PS4 2.57 and have the pcars 2.0 version.

I've used Jack spade 66% but its clipping and it's very jerky after 2.0
Thx

Edit: I've just tried grimey dog's tweek, but it isn't working for me. It's going from left to right on a straight very hard, and it's clipping. Lowerd mz scale ect ect..you could search for Bunyip Mcluvin's settings in forum they are for gt3 wheel but work for my gt2 like no other . CSR GT3 and GT2 are all basically the same . Try his set up B. I don't know how to give you a link . I've posted to him so you could find his settings by looking at my posts.

gruzzlebeard
27-07-2015, 06:15
Wish I had... Also sometimes experiencing sudden loss of FFB altogether. Restarting does the trick. What triggers this bug I have no idea about...

Yes. A restart of the wheel helps but I think only if the ffb is totaly lost at the wheel. But I cannot reproduce the previous FFB amplitudes in the telemetry data by restarting the wheel.

Actually the issue is not what I feel with the wheel but what I can see in the telemetry data - there is the difference. The curves stay flat without subtle feedback and this is obviously not a wheel issue.

rcbrasileiro
27-07-2015, 13:06
Hi all,
i have a fanatec gt2 and i'm not getting a good setup. I I tried used Jack Spade - FFB Tweaker Files for PC. But i can not a good setup. I've tried everything :( Please, help me!

Sankyo
27-07-2015, 13:58
Hi all,
i have a fanatec gt2 and i'm not getting a good setup. I I tried used Jack Spade - FFB Tweaker Files for PC. But i can not a good setup. I've tried everything :( Please, help me!
Please define what you mean with 'good set-up'? What do you not like about the default or Jack Spade's FFB settings? If we don't know what you're looking for, we cannot help you finding a 'good' set-up for you :)

Kain NL
27-07-2015, 15:36
I updated my CSW V2 with driver 222 and the wheel display shows now 110 as firmware. So far there are no issues with this new Fanatec update. But unfortunately it doesn't improve the mess with Pcars FFB settings, savings and total or partial loss of FFB forces during practises.

What setup do you use with the V2 base ? Cause I use the XOne hub also for PCars on ps4..but my buttons don't match up anymore at all. And I also can't use the brake and gas pedal to scroll through the tabs anymore!!

rcbrasileiro
27-07-2015, 17:11
Please define what you mean with 'good set-up'? What do you not like about the default or Jack Spade's FFB settings? If we don't know what you're looking for, we cannot help you finding a 'good' set-up for you :)

Hi Remco, sorry my bad English!
I cannot a good settings for my Fanatec GT2 on PS4. I've tried several tutorials and just cannot drive any car!!!!
I do not feel comfortable, the wheel is loose straight, it's very strange, never had problems before.
Thank you for your attention.

Redslayer
28-07-2015, 00:30
I don't know what the deal is, but the amount of races I start with no Force feedback is back up to release day levels. And it's really starting to piss me off.

Sankyo
28-07-2015, 10:55
I don't know what the deal is, but the amount of races I start with no Force feedback is back up to release day levels. And it's really starting to piss me off.
So as soon as you start a race, there's no FFB? Does that also happen with Free Practice? How do you solve the problem? Does it happen after a fresh game start, only when you already drove a race, or just randomly?

Kain NL
28-07-2015, 12:40
It's totally random Remco. It happens at fresh start, restarting a race, when going into pits via pause game and going back on track. Experienced it in career mode, free practice, and online...Didn't do time trials yet. The way I resolve it is: pause game, turn off wheel, turn wheel back on, set wheel back in PS4 mode again and continu game again by pressing the 'cross' button.

WhoosierGirl
28-07-2015, 13:10
So as soon as you start a race, there's no FFB? Does that also happen with Free Practice? How do you solve the problem? Does it happen after a fresh game start, only when you already drove a race, or just randomly?

I have been getting the loss more and more lately also, there are three types I encounter. I call them choppy, loose and full.
Choppy is where there is a skipping between no and full FFB mid-corner, as if the tires are skidding across the track but they are not.
Loose is where there is very light FFB and the FBB graph will show a very lazy wavy line as you turn left and right, never going near full clip.
Full is where there is no FBB at all and the FBB graph will show full clip as you turn to the right and a 45 degree line to full clip as you turn to the left __/.

The loss of FFB can happen in free practice, career, quick race and online mode. I have had it happen between a career sprint and endurance race while pressing nothing but the start button. It happens as soon as the race or practice starts and can be fixed by going back to the main menu and restarting the race. I have had it happen with the DS4 off and on, I don't think the DS4 has anything to do with it and happening.

I have had it happen on a fresh game start/first race with my wheel and PS4 cool. I have also paused PCars when the FBB is lost and switched the wheel to my PS3 and GT6 and had full FFB, switched back to PCars and lost the FBB again. I don't think problem is wheel heat related and comes and goes whenever, I am the community ambassador trophy away from platinum and have had it happen probably 100+ while playing....annoying little bug, lol.

gruzzlebeard
28-07-2015, 15:40
What setup do you use with the V2 base ? Cause I use the XOne hub also for PCars on ps4..but my buttons don't match up anymore at all. And I also can't use the brake and gas pedal to scroll through the tabs anymore!!
I use the CSW V2 on PS4 with the Porsche 918 RSR rim. The buttons are working. I'm not sure anymore if I reset my wheel in-game after the the update. I did it so often the last days I cannot remember :rolleyes:.

WhoosierGirl
28-07-2015, 16:03
This is a video of what I call Full FFB loss where the wheel goes full clipping to full clipping.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_fjjB_i64M

This is leaving the pit lane where the wheel violently turns to full lock, this was not a landmine. This was the wheel going full turn as the game released to manual control and turned the wheel max speed to the right and held to full lock.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FFW-mQRaoY

TakMan
28-07-2015, 19:26
Hey guys, can I just get some quick advice for the new kit please...?

Just got back from holiday to find the CSW-V2, Shifter, and Universal Hub under the desk at work (V3 pedals incoming after 31st August - why they didn't just wait and ship in one consignment I've no idea!)

Last wheel was an old Logitech GT for the PS1/2, so this new kit is quite a jump!

I work in graphics on a Mac but the guys in IT say I can borrow a Windows laptop to install the software... That's the bit I want the advice on (never used a Microsoft based computer!)

I'm currently modding my old racing seat to affix the gear and will be on PS4, so no rush... I just want to get things straight in my head first....

I've already downloaded the CSW-V2 2x pieces of 64 bit software off the 'downloads' section of the wheel, is that the only software I require (?) as there appears to be different versions of the software in the downloads areas for the hub, pedals and shifter - most confusing! If I use the CSW specific software will that do the complete job of communicating with the other peripherals, or is there a requirement to somehow apply the software into each piece of separate kit?

Whilst here, I'd just like to thank you all for your settings, I have printed something akin to a dossier on the works printers :o with all your settings! By the time the pedals arrive, I'm sure PCars will have been updated yet again and I'll have printed another set of Grimey's (and Spade's) settings.... Not to mention Fong's, Gruzzlebeard's and Remco's!

Thanks in advance and sorry to be a pain....

Damian

(Any other specific settings for the wheel, etc appreciated!)

gruzzlebeard
29-07-2015, 01:05
This is a video of what I call Full FFB loss where the wheel goes full clipping to full clipping.

...

This is leaving the pit lane where the wheel violently turns to full lock, this was not a landmine. This was the wheel going full turn as the game released to manual control and turned the wheel max speed to the right and held to full lock.

...

The clipping in the 1st vid looks really strange :sour:. I didn't notice such results in Free Practises so far. But from now on I will drive more career and online races again and I will check my telemetry data carefully. Actually I found for me now some nice settings and I stopped the tweaking and I'll go back to the race tracks.

The issue in V2 happend to me as well when I shifted the slider of the "Deadzone Removal Falloff" all the way to the left to 0.00 instead of moving it 1 click back to the right (but still 0.00 - it's an UI-bug). Then my wheel was somehow totally collapsing after leaving the pits :boxing: maybe it comes from there?

GrimeyDog
29-07-2015, 01:43
Ive m made a few minor adjustments to the Global FFB and the in car FFB settings to make the FFB smoother... using the CSW v2 the wheel weight is not heavy or lazy but the FFB is strong!!! if the FFB is too strong for your taste i recommend turning the wheel FFB to 85 and then Reduce the "FOR" setting until the FFB Level is right for you.

So far the in car FFB settings work Very well with every car Ive tested across different car classes with the exception of Formula A cars... The formula A cars seem to need different in car FFB settings... I'm not a Big Formula car fan so i have not vested too much time into solving the problem...I will get to them soon ... I have not tested all cars yet but so far 10 of 10 cars GT4 thru LMP1 work and feel well with the same in car FFB settings.

Keep in mind that this tweek was made for and with the CSW v2... it may work on other wheels but you will have to do your own fine tune tweek adjustments.

this will more than likely be the last FFB tweek for the 2.0 update as the FFB to me feels very good with the CSW v2...This is How i prefer my wheel to feel... it may suite your Wheel FFB taste or Maybe Not... but in any case its a Good Starting point for you to tweek from to get the feel that is best for you.
Enjoy Grimeydog

Also i Noted in the PDF about the 2x "0.00" Dead Zone Removal Fall Off settings and Noted which 1 is the proper "0.00" setting to use....
Full left to (#1) "0.00" then 1 click right to (#2) "0.00"<---this is the correct setting to use.

GrimeyDog
29-07-2015, 02:11
https://youtu.be/EMUY6PDe0Ps

Porsche RS-8 GT3 FFB test on Hockenheim ring.... Pardon my bad video quality... LOL

Birch
29-07-2015, 04:20
Hey jeygopi, did you manage to solve this as I am having exactly the same issue in attempting to update the firmware?

MG0902
29-07-2015, 06:18
you could search for Bunyip Mcluvin's settings in forum they are for gt3 wheel but work for my gt2 like no other . CSR GT3 and GT2 are all basically the same . Try his set up B. I don't know how to give you a link . I've posted to him so you could find his settings by looking at my posts.

I must say I'm impressed...
I don't have any clipping with setup A. Didn't had the time to test the others....
But I noticed something else... When I'm in a corner and my wheel touch a rumble curb, I have loss of FFB. It looks like the rumble forces taking over at that moment. The wheel feels very light, but when I'm off the curb the FFB is back...
Is this because of the soft and full clipping setting?

Here's a link for the settings:
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?32289-PS4-Fanatec-GT3-RS-v2-Settings-(No-Clipping)

Sankyo
29-07-2015, 06:20
This is a video of what I call Full FFB loss where the wheel goes full clipping to full clipping.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_fjjB_i64M
Thanks for that. This does show that using the right terminology is very important, as this isn't really FFB loss (=no FFB, limp wheel) but totally clipping FFB. In the former case, FFB has stopped, in the latter case the FFB is working but apparently with completely wrong parameters, or the physics calculations are buggered. I'll pass this on to the devs.


This is leaving the pit lane where the wheel violently turns to full lock, this was not a landmine. This was the wheel going full turn as the game released to manual control and turned the wheel max speed to the right and held to full lock.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FFW-mQRaoY
IIRC this has been reported before. I'll also pass this on, thanks.

Sankyo
29-07-2015, 06:22
I must say I'm impressed...
I don't have any clipping with setup A. Didn't had the time to test the others....
But I noticed something else... When I'm in a corner and my wheel touch a rumble curb, I have loss of FFB. It looks like the rumble forces taking over at that moment. The wheel feels very light, but when I'm off the curb the FFB is back...
Is this because of the soft and full clipping setting?

Here's a link for the settings:
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?32289-PS4-Fanatec-GT3-RS-v2-Settings-(No-Clipping)
Having a look at the FFB monitor could give you a good hint what happens with the FFB.

lazpete
29-07-2015, 07:24
I have been getting the loss more and more lately also, there are three types I encounter. I call them choppy, loose and full.
Choppy is where there is a skipping between no and full FFB mid-corner, as if the tires are skidding across the track but they are not.
Loose is where there is very light FFB and the FBB graph will show a very lazy wavy line as you turn left and right, never going near full clip.
Full is where there is no FBB at all and the FBB graph will show full clip as you turn to the right and a 45 degree line to full clip as you turn to the left __/.

The loss of FFB can happen in free practice, career, quick race and online mode. I have had it happen between a career sprint and endurance race while pressing nothing but the start button. It happens as soon as the race or practice starts and can be fixed by going back to the main menu and restarting the race. I have had it happen with the DS4 off and on, I don't think the DS4 has anything to do with it and happening.

I have had it happen on a fresh game start/first race with my wheel and PS4 cool. I have also paused PCars when the FBB is lost and switched the wheel to my PS3 and GT6 and had full FFB, switched back to PCars and lost the FBB again. I don't think problem is wheel heat related and comes and goes whenever, I am the community ambassador trophy away from platinum and have had it happen probably 100+ while playing....annoying little bug, lol.

This is exactly the same thing as happen to me, totally random it seem.
I've also lost the gearbox, and a reboot of the console fixed that.

//Lasse

MG0902
29-07-2015, 09:06
Having a look at the FFB monitor could give you a good hint what happens with the FFB.
I've made a video, so maybe you could help...It's pretty dark so you can see the FFB monitor better.

The loss of FFB is at its worst at 1:31. Going uphill in the middle of the left hander...
I also noticed im loosing FFB braking in to a corner when i already turned the wheel.
You can see it when you stop the video at 53sec. There's a dip in the FFB monitor.


https://youtu.be/0sWSv4ixdCI

Thx

rotcock
29-07-2015, 11:46
I've made a video, so maybe you could help...It's pretty dark so you can see the FFB monitor better.

The loss of FFB is at its worst at 1:31. Going uphill in the middle of the left hander...
I also noticed im loosing FFB braking in to a corner when i already turned the wheel.
You can see it when you stop the video at 53sec. There's a dip in the FFB monitor.


https://youtu.be/0sWSv4ixdCI

Thx



I'm no expert but isn't this just temporary loss of grip of the tires?

Sankyo
29-07-2015, 12:45
I've made a video, so maybe you could help...It's pretty dark so you can see the FFB monitor better.

The loss of FFB is at its worst at 1:31. Going uphill in the middle of the left hander...
I also noticed im loosing FFB braking in to a corner when i already turned the wheel.
You can see it when you stop the video at 53sec. There's a dip in the FFB monitor.


https://youtu.be/0sWSv4ixdCI

Thx

Well the dip at 0:53 seems like a perfectly normal calculated FFB signal, not the FFB dropping out so there's probably a reason why it calculated that (e.g. a dip or crest in the road). As for the FFB around 1:31, the FFB graph does show a mostly flat line with one or two bumps in it, but again it does not look like the FFB just drops out.

My biggest question is: if you try to drive laps consistently, does the FFB behave the same on those locations every time? If yes, then there's no bug and it's a natural result of the interaction of the car, the track and your driving (unless of course you lost tyre grip at 0:53 as rotcock suggested). If the FFB sometimes shows what you recorded but at other times shows completely different FFB, then we may have a bug. But it would be very useful if you could record that on video then.

WhoosierGirl
29-07-2015, 13:07
Thanks for that. This does show that using the right terminology is very important, as this isn't really FFB loss (=no FFB, limp wheel) but totally clipping FFB. In the former case, FFB has stopped, in the latter case the FFB is working but apparently with completely wrong parameters, or the physics calculations are buggered. I'll pass this on to the devs.



A better explanation of the three FBB problems I call choppy, loose and full would be:

Choppy is a good wheel feeling and graph until hard into the corner and then a super fast loose/tight FFB on the wheel. Graph spikes up and down to full clip very fast. Resetting to main menu and running the lap again and the wheel and graph go back to normal.

Loose is where the wheel feels like it is at 50% of what it should be and the graph shows very slow wavy movement.
Resetting to main menu and running the lap again and the wheel and graph go back to normal.

Full is the wheel with no feeling at all and the graph going full clipping, very similar feeling to unplugging the power from a G27 wheel.
Resetting to main menu and running the lap again and the wheel and graph go back to normal.

I can add more Tire Force and have full clipping on the graph while in a corner and still have resistance on the wheel, do you know why the graph goes to max clipping when there is no feel at all in the wheel? That's probably the million dollar question, lol.

Sankyo
29-07-2015, 13:16
A better explanation of the three FBB problems I call choppy, loose and full would be:

Choppy is a good wheel feeling and graph until hard into the corner and then a super fast loose/tight FFB on the wheel. Graph spikes up and down to full clip very fast. Resetting to main menu and running the lap again and the wheel and graph go back to normal.

Loose is where the wheel feels like it is at 50% of what it should be and the graph shows very slow wavy movement.
Resetting to main menu and running the lap again and the wheel and graph go back to normal.

Full is the wheel with no feeling at all and the graph going full clipping, very similar feeling to unplugging the power from a G27 wheel.
Resetting to main menu and running the lap again and the wheel and graph go back to normal.


Thanks, the info that resetting and running the lap again gives a different result is important. However, are you sure that everything is the same, including tyre temperatures, after you reset to the main menu and back?


I can add more Tire Force and have full clipping on the graph while in a corner and still have resistance on the wheel, do you know why the graph goes to max clipping when there is no feel at all in the wheel? That's probably the million dollar question, lol.
What do you mean with 'no feel at all in the wheel'? As opposed to the 'full clipping on the graph and still have resistance on the wheel'?

WhoosierGirl
29-07-2015, 14:02
Thanks, the info that resetting and running the lap again gives a different result is important. However, are you sure that everything is the same, including tyre temperatures, after you reset to the main menu and back?

Yes, all the same, same car and FFB setup. Leave the pits or start a race and FFB is bugged, reset and everything back as it should.



What do you mean with 'no feel at all in the wheel'? As opposed to the 'full clipping on the graph and still have resistance on the wheel'?

Please excuse my explanations, I am a Nurse in real life and racing games are a stress relief to me and I am not good with game/car terminology.

In the video I posted with the graph going full clip to full clip as I swayed back an forth I had no resistance or feel in the wheel at all, as if no power to the FFB motors. Wheel was completely loose and easy to turn.

The 'full clipping on the graph and still have resistance on the wheel' is if I take my FFB settings and add Tire Force (say adding from 26 to 40) and make the graph go to full clip, I will still feel resistance or feedback in the wheel as I am cornering. In the video I feel nothing when the graph is maxed to the top. I can make more videos of all three problems and one of a good FFB that I use later tonight if you like.

Elinea
29-07-2015, 14:13
GrimeyDog or any other Fanatec Porsche GT2 user. I am from Germany (sorry for spell mistakes) and i am reading since weeks through all posts regarding Fanatec wheels on http://forum.projectcarsgame.com and the German forum: http://www.pcars-forum.de. I tested lots of different settings (Fanatec CSW, Fanatec Porsche GT3 V2) but none of them was really fitting to my setup. What would be your suggesting for the Fanatec Porsche 911 GT2?

By the way...you are all making a great job. Many thanks for spending so much time and effort into the settings...

Sankyo
29-07-2015, 14:16
Yes, all the same, same car and FFB setup. Leave the pits or start a race and FFB is bugged, reset and everything back as it should.



Please excuse my explanations, I am a Nurse in real life and racing games are a stress relief to me and I am not good with game/car terminology.

In the video I posted with the graph going full clip to full clip as I swayed back an forth I had no resistance or feel in the wheel at all, as if no power to the FFB motors. Wheel was completely loose and easy to turn.

The 'full clipping on the graph and still have resistance on the wheel' is if I take my FFB settings and add Tire Force (say adding from 26 to 40) and make the graph go to full clip, I will still feel resistance or feedback in the wheel as I am cornering. In the video I feel nothing when the graph is maxed to the top. I can make more videos of all three problems and one of a good FFB that I use later tonight if you like.
OK thanks for the explanation, so definitely no or very light FFB force while the graph shows clipping. I'll pass that on to the devs.

GrimeyDog
29-07-2015, 14:31
I've made a video, so maybe you could help...It's pretty dark so you can see the FFB monitor better.

The loss of FFB is at its worst at 1:31. Going uphill in the middle of the left hander...
I also noticed im loosing FFB braking in to a corner when i already turned the wheel.
You can see it when you stop the video at 53sec. There's a dip in the FFB monitor.


https://youtu.be/0sWSv4ixdCI

Thx

That FFB Looks oretty good to me...it seems to me that the car is maybe sliding or maybe you get 1 tire off the ground... also thats a Formula car so it rides pretty flat...unless your hitting the rumble strips its Not gonna be major movement in the FFB meter...FFB Looks pretty Good to me.

GrimeyDog
29-07-2015, 14:49
Elinea Sorry I Havent Spent too Much time Tweeking with the GT2 wheel...im Pretty sure there is a FFB solution but i have not spent enough time using a GT2 with PCars to have a specific GT2 wheel tweek.

Elinea
29-07-2015, 15:07
@GrimeyDog...suggestion would be to sell the wheel...;-)? But thanks for the answer...seems like the GT2 is much different than the other Fanatec wheels.

Titzon Toast
29-07-2015, 15:52
@GrimeyDog...suggestion would be to sell the wheel...;-)? But thanks for the answer...seems like the GT2 is much different than the other Fanatec wheels.

I have a Turbo-S myself, but a guy I race with has a GT2 and we share the same settings, my wheel feels fantastic to me and he says the same about his.
Would you like to try my settings?

GrimeyDog
29-07-2015, 16:04
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?32289-PS4-Fanatec-GT3-RS-v2-Settings-(No-Clipping)


Elinea there are some good GT2 wheel tweeks out there from what ive read try this link... there are a Few people on this post that have posted their GT2 wheel Tweeks.

The CSW v2 is a Great and to me the Best wheel on the market for its price range...I wouldnt suggest giving up and selling your GT2 wheel...that all depends on how much you love sim racing to CSW v2 or Not...lol....

PCars FFB Still Needs work to get all the wheels working as they should... Hopefully the Next update should bring pCars FFB a step closer to where it needs to be.... the FFB improvement list Looks pretty good if they can get it Right.

Elinea
29-07-2015, 21:05
@Titzon Toast...sounds great and yes, I like to try your settings

@GrimeyDog...thanks for the link. I will check tomorrow and keeping fingers crossed to find some working settings...

I will post my test results here. Maybe there are some other 911 GT2 "drivers"

GrimeyDog
29-07-2015, 22:14
Tizton Toast Has Good Wheel Settings!!!
I Recomend Giving his Wheel Tweek a Try.

xXDoc187Xx
29-07-2015, 23:02
I have a Turbo-S myself, but a guy I race with has a GT2 and we share the same settings, my wheel feels fantastic to me and he says the same about his.
Would you like to try my settings?

I Would like to try them out since http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?32289-PS4-Fanatec-GT3-RS-v2-Settings-(No-Clipping) doesn't work like it did on patch 1.5. My Wheel just feel way too tight like I have a high center spring or something. I have a turbo S

Redslayer
30-07-2015, 00:04
It's totally random Remco. It happens at fresh start, restarting a race, when going into pits via pause game and going back on track. Experienced it in career mode, free practice, and online...Didn't do time trials yet. The way I resolve it is: pause game, turn off wheel, turn wheel back on, set wheel back in PS4 mode again and continu game again by pressing the 'cross' button.


Yep, pretty much this (been busy sorry for the delayed response). It happens a lot in practice as I come out of the pits, I'll just have 0 for feedback, the wheel just free turns with 0 resistance whatsoever. And a wheel power off/on or lobby/session exit and relaunch are the only ways to restore it.



This is a video of what I call Full FFB loss where the wheel goes full clipping to full clipping.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_fjjB_i64M


Mine also does this, I had honestly thought it was supposed to do that when steering left or right, because it does that every single time I've ever looked at it.

Elinea
30-07-2015, 07:12
okay...so, Tizton Toast, where can I find your settings and are they tested with new release 2.0?

Titzon Toast
30-07-2015, 07:24
okay...so, Tizton Toast, where can I find your settings and are they tested with new release 2.0?

Sorry Elinea, I will post them up here later on. I've just seen your reply now and I'm late for work!

Elinea
30-07-2015, 08:25
@Titzon Toast...no worries...i am as well at work and will not be able to test your settings within the next 6 hours...;-)...

Titzon Toast
30-07-2015, 08:43
@Titzon Toast...no worries...i am as well at work and will not be able to test your settings within the next 6 hours...;-)...

Cool beans, I hope they work for you too.

Titzon Toast
30-07-2015, 08:54
FORCE FEEDBACK

Tyre force 20
P.W.M 0.00
P.W.M.S 0.00
W.P..S 0.00
D.R.R 0.00
D.R.F 0.00
Linkage scale 0.00
Linkage stiffness 1.00
Linkage Damp. 0.00
Rel Adj Gain 0.98
Rel Adj bleed 0.18
Rel Adj Clamp 0.96
Scoop Knee 0.70
Scoop Reduction 0.15
Soft Clipping 0.00
Soft Clipping Full 0.00



CONFIGURATION

Steering & Throttle 50%
Brake & Clutch 50%
All deadzones 0%
Speed Sen 0
Filter sensitivity 0
Damp Sat 0
Force Feedback 100
Controller imp mode 3
Advance On


WHEEL

SEN Off
FF 100
SHO 100
DRI 2
ABS 85
LIN 000/off
DEA 000/off
SPR 000/off
DPR 000/off
ACL OFF

Here you go guys, I posted these a couple of weeks ago but I've made a couple of changes since then.
I have my Tyre Force low in order to get the FFB graph nice and spikey without any clipping, my wheel is well used and your particular wheel might be able to handle more Tyre Force and not clip.
I use Jack Spades SopLat66% settings for my in-car FFB and they work a treat.
If these settings don't work for you at all please just say so, you won't hurt my feelings!
Good luck.

EDIT
If you haven't already reset your wheel settings after patch 2.0 I'd recommend that you do before trying out these new settings.

EDIT 2
I also put my spindle FY to 30 for every car.

Elinea
30-07-2015, 10:00
many thanks...will give it a try tonight...and post my comments...

@Titzon Toast...what is your FFB setting in Game? 100?

Titzon Toast
30-07-2015, 16:53
many thanks...will give it a try tonight...and post my comments...

@Titzon Toast...what is your FFB setting in Game? 100?

It is indeed, it's listed above beside the settings it sits beside in-game.

0i8u2
31-07-2015, 02:58
@ titzon toast,
I'm looking at getting the fanatec gt2 off a mate to play this game.
Do you think it's worth buying or should I just go for a higher end one.
Is it a decent wheel ? Is it on par or better than my old g25 ?

Sorry for asking here, I'm new to this site and just didn't want to start a thread that probably exists.
Plus I wanted the opinion of someone that has one.
Cheers

wnw65
31-07-2015, 05:04
Yep. mine works well too. PS4 and CSR with elite pedals and shifter

Titzon Toast
31-07-2015, 07:11
@ titzon toast,
I'm looking at getting the fanatec gt2 off a mate to play this game.
Do you think it's worth buying or should I just go for a higher end one.
Is it a decent wheel ? Is it on par or better than my old g25 ?

Sorry for asking here, I'm new to this site and just didn't want to start a thread that probably exists.
Plus I wanted the opinion of someone that has one.
Cheers

I've never played with a G25 before man so I can't really comment on that tbh, the GT2 is a grand wheel though. So long as it's reasonably priced and in good condition then I'd go for it if I was you.

Elinea
31-07-2015, 07:45
Fanatec Porsche-S


Fanatec Porsche GT2



FORCE FEEDBACK

German Translation:

FORCE FEEDBACK








Tyre force 20

Stärke Reifenkraft

43



P.W.M 0.00

Bewegung pro Rad

0.00



P.W.M.S 0.00

Bewegung pro Rad im Quadrat

0.00



W.P..S 0.00

Dämpfung pro Rad

0.00



D.R.R 0.00

Bereich Totzonenentfernung

0.00



D.R.F 0.00

Abfall Totzonenentfernung

0.00



Linkage scale 0.00

Stärke Steuerung

0.00



Linkage stiffness 1.00

Härte Steuerung

1.00



Linkage Damp. 0.00

Dämpfung Steuerung

0.00



Rel Adj Gain 0.98

Zunahme r. Anpassung

0.98



Rel Adj bleed 0.18

Ableitung r. Anpassung

0.16



Rel Adj Clamp 0.96

Klemme r. Anpassung

0.95



Scoop Knee 0.70

Hutze Knickpunkt

0.70



Scoop Reduction 0.15

Hutze Reduktion

0.15



Soft Clipping 0.00

Weiche Beschneidung (halbe Eingabe)

0.00



Soft Clipping Full 0.00

Weiche Beschneidung (volle Eingabe)

0.00


















CONFIGURATION


CONFIGURATION








Steering & Throttle 50%


50%



Brake & Clutch 50%


60% & 50%



All deadzones 0%


0%



Speed Sen 0





Filter sensitivity 0





Damp Sat 0





Force Feedback 100


100



Controller imp mode 3


3



Advance On


On













WHEEL


WHEEL








SEN Off


Off



FF 100


100



SHO 100


100



DRI 2


2



ABS 85


100



LIN 000/off


000/off



DEA 000/off


000/off



SPR 000/off


000/off



DPR 000/off


000/off



ACL OFF


off













TitzonToe (Porsche Turbo-S) used Jack Spades SopLat66% settings for in-car FFB.







Elinea (Porsche 911 GT2) used Jack Spades SopLat66% settings for in-car FFB but increased "Master Scale" and "Soop Scale" for example for the Mercedes C-Coupe DTM to 40 and it feels good without clipping.

@TitzonToe...thanks for your help/settings and find my test result above. Think i need some more testing hours and will keep you updated.

Elinea
31-07-2015, 07:47
@0i8u2...after some game Setting/tuning work my Fanatec Porsche 911 GT2 works fine...next buy will be the Fanatec CSW V2/V3? but not within the next couple of months.

Titzon Toast
01-08-2015, 08:48
@ Remco Van Dijk

I'm having some technical difficulties with my Turbo-S since last night and I was wondering if you could give me some advice please?

When I first switch my wheel on and it tries to self calibrate, instead of returning and stopping at centre, it starts to oscillate left and right wildly about 45 degrees each way.

If I hold the wheel at centre and get it into PC or 360 mode, it won't rotate at the full 900 degrees, it's stopping about 90 or so degrees from full right lock and it starts juddering and giving resistance.
The bump stop or whatever it has, doesn't feel especially solid on the left side when it's rotated fully in that direction.

With the wheel powered off it will rotate fully in both directions to leave the wheel facing a solid 90 degrees.

I have the wheel about 4 years now and it's seen a lot of use in that time, I've never had the cover off it for any reason though, it could be due some maintenance at this stage I'm guessing!
Any help or advice would be much appreciated sir.
Thank you.

Sankyo
01-08-2015, 11:16
@ Remco Van Dijk

I'm having some technical difficulties with my Turbo-S since last night and I was wondering if you could give me some advice please?

When I first switch my wheel on and it tries to self calibrate, instead of returning and stopping at centre, it starts to oscillate left and right wildly about 45 degrees each way.

If I hold the wheel at centre and get it into PC or 360 mode, it won't rotate at the full 900 degrees, it's stopping about 90 or so degrees from full right lock and it starts juddering and giving resistance.
The bump stop or whatever it has, doesn't feel especially solid on the left side when it's rotated fully in that direction.

With the wheel powered off it will rotate fully in both directions to leave the wheel facing a solid 90 degrees.

I have the wheel about 4 years now and it's seen a lot of use in that time, I've never had the cover off it for any reason though, it could be due some maintenance at this stage I'm guessing!
Any help or advice would be much appreciated sir.
Thank you.
It sounds like the on-wheel or driver settings changed and it now has a smaller turning angle with soft stops on either end. Did you check these settings? Also the oscillating sounds like drift mode having been set too high.

Titzon Toast
01-08-2015, 14:01
It sounds like the on-wheel or driver settings changed and it now has a smaller turning angle with soft stops on either end. Did you check these settings? Also the oscillating sounds like drift mode having been set too high.

I've got my Drift mode set at two, I haven't hooked it up to my laptop yet either. I'm gonna check all those settings very soon and report back.
Thank you very much for the fast reply.

Titzon Toast
01-08-2015, 19:55
214010

214011

Fixed, thank you Remco.



To the track!

draughn101
01-08-2015, 22:49
I've got a CSW V1 inbound and I'm looking for some guidance as to what pedal/shifter combo will work with this and PCars. I know that I can get the Fanatec labeled stuff, but that's hard to find second hand. Do the Thrustmaster pedals/shifter connect? And are they recognized by Pcars?

MG0902
02-08-2015, 12:42
Well the dip at 0:53 seems like a perfectly normal calculated FFB signal, not the FFB dropping out so there's probably a reason why it calculated that (e.g. a dip or crest in the road). As for the FFB around 1:31, the FFB graph does show a mostly flat line with one or two bumps in it, but again it does not look like the FFB just drops out.

My biggest question is: if you try to drive laps consistently, does the FFB behave the same on those locations every time? If yes, then there's no bug and it's a natural result of the interaction of the car, the track and your driving (unless of course you lost tyre grip at 0:53 as rotcock suggested). If the FFB sometimes shows what you recorded but at other times shows completely different FFB, then we may have a bug. But it would be very useful if you could record that on video then.

I didn't mean that I have some sort of a bug. I know it's a setting but I don't know wich one it is..
I'm not totally losing FFB, it becomes light and it feels like the belt or motor is making a 180degrees turn and then I get my FFB back.. It happens on the same spots every time so it must be something in my settings.

Sankyo
02-08-2015, 17:59
214010

214011

Fixed, thank you Remco.



To the track!

What fixed it? :)

Sankyo
02-08-2015, 18:01
I didn't mean that I have some sort of a bug. I know it's a setting but I don't know wich one it is..
I'm not totally losing FFB, it becomes light and it feels like the belt or motor is making a 180degrees turn and then I get my FFB back.. It happens on the same spots every time so it must be something in my settings.
What FFB settings do you use?

Titzon Toast
02-08-2015, 22:28
What fixed it? :)

I hooked it up to the driver and saw that it was off kilter, so I recalibrated the centre point and it's back as good as new.

MG0902
03-08-2015, 06:12
What FFB settings do you use?
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?32289-PS4-Fanatec-GT3-RS-v2-Settings-(No-Clipping)

SETUP B

Sankyo
03-08-2015, 06:51
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?32289-PS4-Fanatec-GT3-RS-v2-Settings-(No-Clipping)

SETUP B

If you set Relative Adjust Gain to zero, does the strange loss of FFB go away?

GrimeyDog
05-08-2015, 16:23
https://youtu.be/YWjFcQ-LhL0

https://youtu.be/JK1wNeQaOE0

https://youtu.be/ZeWTJa8UCL4

3 Different Cars with Stock un-tuned Suspentions, Same Track , Same Global FFB Settings , Same in Car FFB Settings... The Universal FFB tweek..... LOL I finaly figured out how to do Share Play Videos!!! LOL.

EDIT: The Formula Rookie was a Last Min throw in i tested that at Laguna Seca Haaa Check that telemitry!!! but still Stock tune with Same Global and in Car FFB settings for every car No matter the track.

Titzon Toast
05-08-2015, 19:53
Just in time for the new patch that might change it all again, huh man?!

Jerem33FR
05-08-2015, 20:46
Hi Guys, was away for some weeks and just read the 30 pages i've missed !

I may haven't seeit but Grimey, do you have complete and post your setup for the GT2 or not yet ?

GrimeyDog
06-08-2015, 05:35
Hi Guys, was away for some weeks and just read the 30 pages i've missed !

I may haven't seeit but Grimey, do you have complete and post your setup for the GT2 or not yet ?

Titzon Toast Has a Really Good GT2 Tweek... He is the GT2 Go to guy... There has been Good progress made with the GT2 wheel and there have been a Few Set ups posted that most seem to be happy with... Titzon Toast or Remco can point you to them... Im on Vacation so i havent been pisting much.

GrimeyDog
06-08-2015, 05:46
Just in time for the new patch that might change it all again, huh man?!

The Patch will only make it better... they said that their will be update profiles to choose from... im happy with update 2.0 so i will stay on that profile if its available... but it wont be too hard to Re-Tweek and get the feel back.... those videos are the same Tweek i was using when i made the Ford Focus video... I finally learned how to use share play since i stoped tweeking... LOL... the better Video quality really shows what the telemetry is doing and you feel every bit of it in the wheel!!!

Titzon Toast
06-08-2015, 18:11
FORCE FEEDBACK

Tyre force 20
P.W.M 0.00
P.W.M.S 0.00
W.P..S 0.00
D.R.R 0.00
D.R.F 0.00
Linkage scale 0.00
Linkage stiffness 1.00
Linkage Damp. 0.00
Rel Adj Gain 0.98
Rel Adj bleed 0.18
Rel Adj Clamp 0.96
Scoop Knee 0.70
Scoop Reduction 0.15
Soft Clipping 0.00
Soft Clipping Full 0.00



CONFIGURATION

Steering & Throttle 50%
Brake & Clutch 50%
All deadzones 0%
Speed Sen 0
Filter sensitivity 0
Damp Sat 0
Force Feedback 100
Controller imp mode 3
Advance On


WHEEL

SEN Off
FF 100
SHO 100
DRI 2
ABS 85
LIN 000/off
DEA 000/off
SPR 000/off
DPR 000/off
ACL OFF

Here you go guys, I posted these a couple of weeks ago but I've made a couple of changes since then.
I have my Tyre Force low in order to get the FFB graph nice and spikey without any clipping, my wheel is well used and your particular wheel might be able to handle more Tyre Force and not clip.
I use Jack Spades SopLat66% settings for my in-car FFB and they work a treat.
If these settings don't work for you at all please just say so, you won't hurt my feelings!
Good luck.

EDIT
If you haven't already reset your wheel settings after patch 2.0 I'd recommend that you do before trying out these new settings.

EDIT 2
I also put my spindle FY to 30 for every car.

@jerem33FR

Here you go pal. I hope they work for you.

Jerem33FR
07-08-2015, 06:44
Thanks Titzon :)

Will try this soon !

I had a "no cliping setup" found by myself weeks ago (with Jack Spades' setup for cars) but seems very loose on kerbs and can't feel the car over/understeer as i want.

ERIC 55
07-08-2015, 08:28
Hello! I'm ERIC 55 From Belgium.

I'm dreaming to use Project cars on PS3! Is it available?

Fanapryde
07-08-2015, 08:34
Hello! I'm ERIC 55 From Belgium.

I'm dreaming to use Project cars on PS3! Is it available?
Hi, I'm from Belgium too, but just FYI:
- this is the wrong topic to ask
- no projectCars on PS3
- your ID says you are on PC ?

Zeke Bewlay
07-08-2015, 23:59
Out of curiosity, it seems most recommendations are to have the wheel sensitivity setting set to off or 900 for the Fanatec gt3 and other wheels. I find that with that setting I need to move the in-game steering sliders all the way left to get a reasonable wheel response, so I have set the wheel sensitivity to 500. Anyone else find this to be the case. Just wondering if my wheel is behaving oddly. Otherwise pretty happy with performance.
Using GT3 V2 wheel on a PS4

Titzon Toast
08-08-2015, 11:37
Out of curiosity, it seems most recommendations are to have the wheel sensitivity setting set to off or 900 for the Fanatec gt3 and other wheels. I find that with that setting I need to move the in-game steering sliders all the way left to get a reasonable wheel response, so I have set the wheel sensitivity to 500. Anyone else find this to be the case. Just wondering if my wheel is behaving oddly. Otherwise pretty happy with performance.
Using GT3 V2 wheel on a PS4

I had my sensitivity set at 640 for a good while, but switched it to OFF a couple of weeks back. It's really helped to smooth things out for me.
I usually keep my steering ratio at about two thirds towards "Fast" depending on the car.

Zeke Bewlay
08-08-2015, 12:20
Thanks Mr Toast, I'll give 'off' a try


I had my sensitivity set at 640 for a good while, but switched it to OFF a couple of weeks back. It's really helped to smooth things out for me.
I usually keep my steering ratio at about two thirds towards "Fast" depending on the car.

Jerem33FR
08-08-2015, 13:09
Hi Guys !

I've tested Titzon's setup on my GT2 and it's clearly a very good setup, we can feel very precisely what the car is doing, thanks man for your job ;-)

Just a little thing, Tire Force is maybe a little too loose at 20, but impossible to set it at 22-23, i can only move to 25 or 26 but it's a little too hight !

Titzon Toast
08-08-2015, 14:29
Hi Guys !

I've tested Titzon's setup on my GT2 and it's clearly a very good setup, we can feel very precisely what the car is doing, thanks man for your job ;-)

Just a little thing, Tire Force is maybe a little too loose at 20, but impossible to set it at 22-23, i can only move to 25 or 26 but it's a little too hight !

I have the exact same problem, it has been announced as a fix in patch 3.0 though.
I'm glad the settings worked for you, hopefully you'll be able to crank up your Tyre Force a couple of points once the patch drops.

Keep the rubber side down!
Good luck.

Zeke Bewlay
09-08-2015, 03:18
I had my sensitivity set at 640 for a good while, but switched it to OFF a couple of weeks back. It's really helped to smooth things out for me.
I usually keep my steering ratio at about two thirds towards "Fast" depending on the car.

To update this in case others have a similar experience. I think I had calibrated my wheel incorrectly and confirm that having sensitivity in wheel set to off gives a better feel.
Also I have used Titzon Toast's settings on my GT3 wheel. Very impressed at least in the two cars and tracks I've tried. More lively, better control (I can at last trail brake) and can really feel the back moving and better times. Thanks Mr Toast!

FACT0RY PIL0T
13-08-2015, 03:33
Ok so Im helping a friend out and he has a gt2 wheel and clubsport v1 pedals. Now we updated the firmware on the wheel, so he turns on the wheel and the ps4 set wheel to pc mode and try to launch the game with the wheel buttons and nothing??

Is there a different procedure to get it to work????

2stains
13-08-2015, 04:52
Start game on PS4 with DS4 then make sure to launch game with x on the wheel not the DS4

FACT0RY PIL0T
14-08-2015, 00:16
After wheel firmware updated, then get the game going get about 1/4 of the way around a track and get this?

Anyone seen this before lol.


http://youtu.be/jWQMN9uhSDU

mk1corty
14-08-2015, 07:08
does anyone know if the fanatec clubsport v3 pedals are going to work on playstation, accel and brake rumble included

Fanapryde
14-08-2015, 07:27
does anyone know if the fanatec clubsport v3 pedals are going to work on playstation, accel and brake rumble included
AFAIK:
Yes / no / no...

Edit: after patch 3: YES / YES / YES

But I read somewhere that the effect is not really spectacular either. A guy (on PC) received his set and he is not impressed with these effects.

Fanatest
14-08-2015, 08:46
AFAIK
YES/YES/YES

the rumble effect is known to be less pronounced than the V2s at the moment, however all indications state that this "could" be improved over time in firmware :)

Fanapryde
14-08-2015, 09:02
AFAIK
YES/YES/YES

Great, hope you are right, but I got my info about the not working rumble motors on PS4 from Fanatec.
Which is your source ?

mk1corty
14-08-2015, 10:35
AFAIK
YES/YES/YES

the rumble effect is known to be less pronounced than the V2s at the moment, however all indications state that this "could" be improved over time in firmware :)

awesome, time to sell the g27 stuff completely then. running the gt2 wheel and its 10x what the g27 was so cant wait to use the cspv3!!

GrimeyDog
14-08-2015, 11:14
My windows 10 is Ready... are there still problems with the Fanatec drivers and windows 10?

WhoosierGirl
14-08-2015, 11:35
After wheel firmware updated, then get the game going get about 1/4 of the way around a track and get this?

Anyone seen this before lol.



Yes, It has happened to me once while on track and a few times while leaving the pit lane, only happens to me in practice mode though.

Fanapryde
14-08-2015, 13:33
does anyone know if the fanatec clubsport v3 pedals are going to work on playstation, accel and brake rumble included
After patch 3: YES YES YES !!!

"""""""Fixed:
* Fanatec – added accelerator slip vibration support for Fanatec wheel rims that support this feature. Added sequential shifter profiles for Porsche 911, GT2, GT3RS V2 and CSR wheels. Added accelerator pedal rumble support for the ClubSport Pedals V3, and fixed brake rumble not working"""""

mk1corty
14-08-2015, 13:43
After patch 3: YES YES YES !!!

"""""""Fixed:
* Fanatec – added accelerator slip vibration support for Fanatec wheel rims that support this feature. Added sequential shifter profiles for Porsche 911, GT2, GT3RS V2 and CSR wheels. Added accelerator pedal rumble support for the ClubSport Pedals V3, and fixed brake rumble not working"""""

yeah read this but i was just scared it was going to be pc only! excited i am

Fanapryde
14-08-2015, 13:55
yeah read this but i was just scared it was going to be pc only! excited i am
It is quoted from the PS4 specific patch list.

Titzon Toast
14-08-2015, 14:59
Don't forget to reset your wheel settings guys and gals.

GrimeyDog
14-08-2015, 15:46
im Looking Forward yo kicken your arse tonight on the New patch Tizton Toast!!! and Make sure you bring the whole crew Brick top, Heisenberg, Milham, Savory ETC i wanna Kick all ya arses at the same Time... LOL... Git Sum Git sum... Aaah ha h haaa!

-Brick_Top-
14-08-2015, 15:49
im Looking Forward yo kicken your arse tonight on the New patch Tizton Toast!!! and Make sure you bring the whole crew Brick top, Heisenberg, Milham, Savory ETC i wanna Kick all ya arses at the same Time... LOL... Git Sum Git sum... Aaah ha h haaa!

Grimey wake up son us dreaming again!!! Oh Got my tracking no for v3's ;)

Fanapryde
14-08-2015, 16:26
Don't forget to reset your wheel settings guys and gals.
Eh, well, I didn't think of it.
But TBH, I don't feel any difference (yet).

Edit, sorry, wrong thread. I was imagining I had my new Fanatec gear already...
So, with my T500RS, no change.

Titzon Toast
14-08-2015, 16:49
The new ffb calibration method is amazing.
This game is now way ahead of any other racing game if you ask me.
I'll post my new settings after some more fun if anybody wants them.

Titzon Toast
14-08-2015, 16:52
im Looking Forward yo kicken your arse tonight on the New patch Tizton Toast!!! and Make sure you bring the whole crew Brick top, Heisenberg, Milham, Savory ETC i wanna Kick all ya arses at the same Time... LOL... Git Sum Git sum... Aaah ha h haaa!

Dude I'm on here lapping away, sharpening up my shit for later on. It's on!
You're gonna love this update man.

Laughing Gravy
14-08-2015, 17:37
The new ffb calibration method is amazing.
This game is now way ahead of any other racing game if you ask me.
I'll post my new settings after some more fun if anybody wants them.

Please do, kind sir, as it's very much appreciated.

GrimeyDog
14-08-2015, 18:12
Tizton Toast so do i have to make New V2 settings??? Im on my way in from work Now.

Titzon Toast
14-08-2015, 19:04
Tizton Toast so do i have to make New V2 settings??? Im on my way in from work Now.

You do indeed man. I'll explain what I found when I post up my new settings in a little while.
Drive fast, take chances!

-Brick_Top-
14-08-2015, 19:07
You do indeed man. I'll explain what I found when I post up my new settings in a little while.
Drive fast, take chances!

Drive fast lol that will be a first!!!!

He's called it on bruv share nothing for the next 6 hours!!!

Raikku
14-08-2015, 19:10
I expected there to be different choosable ffb-profiles for wheels, like for CSW v2. But there isn't, well there is "default" and "Classic" but both has exactly same settings in every
line.

FACT0RY PIL0T
14-08-2015, 20:02
Ok so seems like there feedback then no feedback at all? Do you have to restart the game to get it back??

Linx
14-08-2015, 20:08
I just picked up a CSW v1 last night with the M3 GT2 wheel. Haven't had a chance to try it yet. I've been using Grimey Dog's settings with my regular CSR with one little change. @ Grimey I haven't been keeping up consistently with this thread. The last settings I got that you posted was version 9. Is that your newest settings at the moment or do you have something newer

jotavip
14-08-2015, 21:27
anyone has good force feedback settings after 3.0 patch? I am using a Fanatec CSR wheel, and after the patch it is much better.

GrimeyDog
15-08-2015, 01:00
I just picked up a CSW v1 last night with the M3 GT2 wheel. Haven't had a chance to try it yet. I've been using Grimey Dog's settings with my regular CSR with one little change. @ Grimey I haven't been keeping up consistently with this thread. The last settings I got that you posted was version 9. Is that your newest settings at the moment or do you have something newer


Same FFB #9 using the default FFB Profile... Feels Great even after the update maybe even better because we can now set brake/Clutch sen to 50%.... i haven't played with any New Tweeks as of yet... I dunno even if there will be a Need to... Maybe i will tweek a bit with the spring sliders and see how they feel... But i am very happy with how pcars feels right now.... Let me know how the tweek works on the v1 base i can help you fine tune if you ned help fine tuning.

2stains
15-08-2015, 05:20
On Fanatec GT2 patch 3.0 feels alot different. A bit of adjustment needed to get same feeling back and loss of ffb still happens quite a bit. But all in all i think this is a improvement. Thanks for all the hard work that went into it .

donangel85
15-08-2015, 10:02
Can someone post settings for the Fanatec Forza Motorsport CSR Wheel EU +
ClubSport Pedals V2 EU pleas?
I cant find the right settings. I have Project Cars on the PC too, their is the driving feeling so much better.
I hope somebody can help me.
Sorry for my bad English.

VBR
15-08-2015, 20:28
HELP PLEASE!

After all the trouble I've had with my GT2 wheel, I went a bought a GT3 RS V2 wheel. But the game won't even recognise it. How do I get it to work?



EDIT: The only solution I found is to delete my gamesave & start again. Not a problem for me as I don't play Career mode, though I hope people who do play it & have lots of progress saved don't get this issue.

Linx
15-08-2015, 23:18
Ok I finally set up the CSW v1 wheel I just bought I put in all of Grimey's v9 settings but I'm getting 0 FFB the wheel is dead. I think the firmware I have is 53 because when I turn on the wheel and it finishes calibrating it shows "053" on the display I've always used a regular CSR. This is my first CSW. Can someone please give me some help to get this FFB working. Thanks

EDIT: Ok I figured it out. @Grimey what do I set the FOR in the wheel at

xXDoc187Xx
16-08-2015, 04:38
OK was rumble enable on fanatec wheels (pwts) with the new ffb setting default/classic in patch 3.0? I now get rumble in my wheel and pedals (not from braking but from acceleration) and this is with stock CFB setting on cars

Edit: nvm just went over the patch notes again and I don't like it it feels odd

2stains
16-08-2015, 06:46
OK was rumble enable on fanatec wheels (pwts) with the new ffb setting default/classic in patch 3.0? I now get rumble in my wheel and pedals (not from braking but from acceleration) and this is with stock CFB setting on cars

Edit: nvm just went over the patch notes again and I don't like it it feels oddi agree it should be on braking.

Sankyo
16-08-2015, 06:48
i agree it should be on braking.

It was explicitly added to have FFB on wheel slip.

Fong74
16-08-2015, 08:23
It was explicitly added to have FFB on wheel slip.

This works just fine. But its way too "loud" imo. It overlays all subtle road effects. Setting of SHO 10 is as powerful as 100. OFF turns the vibration off. There is an dynamic in the vibration. So could the intensity of the effect be made configurable through SHO settings in the future? I turned it off so long as I love the display of subtle road effects with my CSW v2.

What about the brake rumble, Remco? Its still not present with v3.0. Will this return to PS4 (remember, I just had it once during the initial session after updating to 1.4)?

memoric77
16-08-2015, 10:50
Someone noticed that Abs- and Shock-Vibration works with the Fanatec GT3 RS V2 Wheel? I feel nothing! Seems it still didnt work?

Is it possible to test the vibration motors generaly without the game?

Raikku
16-08-2015, 13:07
Any new good settings for CSW 2?

Kain NL
16-08-2015, 16:12
Someone noticed that Abs- and Shock-Vibration works with the Fanatec GT3 RS V2 Wheel? I feel nothing! Seems it still didnt work?

Is it possible to test the vibration motors generaly without the game?

Use the Fanatec function settings window on your pc!

Kain NL
16-08-2015, 16:14
Yep...to me also the ffb is blown to pieces with this patch...I had excellent feel in everything...but now my wheel seems to pull strongly to the side of the corner before taking it and randomly it pulls to the left or right at a straight track part!!!

memoric77
17-08-2015, 07:10
Testet it and it works with the Driver Settings Tool. But in the Game it does'nt work.

FrankTheTank
17-08-2015, 09:43
Yep...to me also the ffb is blown to pieces with this patch...I had excellent feel in everything...but now my wheel seems to pull strongly to the side of the corner before taking it and randomly it pulls to the left or right at a straight track part!!!

I had a similar experience with my GT2 RS V2 this weekend. After I used the standard FFB settings and used the standard profile of the car (I tested the BMW 1 Coupe M and a Caterham classic) everything was fine. After I got rid of the strange FFB I didn't tweek any FFB settings at all as the feeling for the cars I tested was just perfect.

memoric77
17-08-2015, 09:54
That's what I found out too. Driving Standard Setup for Wheel and Cars and it seems to be fine. But ABS and Engine Rumble didnt work for me. Can Anyone confirm?

GrimeyDog
17-08-2015, 10:53
For Me the FFB is Almost Exactly the same and probabley even Better... Im Still Running My Last Tweek V#009 and Now that i can adjust the Sliders by +1 or -1 i can Really Fine tune it to perfection!!! The Spring Force Sliders are Nice but I Havent made any Changes yet and dont Know if i will because the FFB is Spot on at this point... Im gonna Run it like this for a bit and if i notice that some thing is missing or needs to be tweeked i will post a New CSW v2 PDF... But as it is Now its Great!!! also I have Not Chaned any in car settings... All Cars except the F1 use the Same in Car FFB Settings and work Great!!!

Cabriojoschy
17-08-2015, 13:21
Has somebody assigned the Fanatec handbrake in game. Tried it with 3.0 but it still says multiple inputs detected when I try to assign it...

Also I had three times a complete loss of FFB (restart of wheel base solves this) with 3.0 yesterday. It wasn't that often before new patch. Thank god the game isn't crashing anymore when I restart the base.

Edit: SQ shifting is still inverted

Kain NL
17-08-2015, 15:15
Followed up on your advice Grimey, set the pre settings at default, to have the 2.0 patch, but my wheel feels much heavier than before when I enter settings I wrote down before patch 3.0.
Then messing with the relative gain only put me further away from the excellent feel I had before!!
Sorry to say that I don't like the new added sliders at all!

GrimeyDog
17-08-2015, 16:49
Kain use my tweek as a base point and set your wheel FFB to 75... Should feel Sweet...Because we can Now tweek by 1's you have to be exact if you want the same feel...I Changed 1 Number (24 to 25) and the difference was Clearly Felt!!! My Next Tweek will be Ultra Precise because of this!!! You just gotta Tweek the Feel is there and Even Better than before!!!

Maybe you didnt copy the Numbers exactly as they were... you cant be that far off though... its Gonna take a Few Hour to tweek it back to your Norm but it can be done.

Tweeking wasnt sooo bad before because you had pre set #'s to tweek from... Now doing it by 1's its better and much more precise but Uuugh its gonna take way longer to tweek feeling every # out 1 by 1.... No way around it if you want that feel back.... It only took me 3 weeks or 100+hrs !!! LOL

CRXsi
17-08-2015, 16:51
I am losing my mind. I have the Fantec GT3 RS v2 and elite pedals. They are just collecting dust. After 2.0 it was the random game crashes that sullied my interest. 3.0 comes out and I am once again scratching my head.

Problem one: (likely a problem with the wheel and not PC) when I turn on the wheel and it auto calibrates (the spinning of the wheel) it rolls through everything but when it is finished the center is off by at least one full rotation. So when I try to calibrate the wheel in game, I can only turn the wheel 90 degrees counter clockwise and well over 900 clockwise. This happens even before I boot PC.

Problem two: I can't find this "classic" setting that is being spoken of here on the boards. I'd like to start there and see if the game is playable with my setup before I invest a bunch of time and effort that will ultimately end in frustration.

Any help on either front would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
CRXsi

Kain NL
17-08-2015, 17:39
Just go to the 'controls' setting menu and choose 'calibrate force feedback' first option there is...click left or right to choose: default, Classic or custom!
Did you reset your TOTAL wheel settings by pushing the , I believe, triangle button ? If you don't see that option.

@Grimey...I copied it 1 on 1...but the wheel is just to strong at fighting back...I mean when I turn left or right...there's just too much resistance in letting me steer in that direction...I will find out what to adjust...but it's gonna take some time...AGAIN...

Linx
17-08-2015, 18:00
Followed up on your advice Grimey, set the pre settings at default, to have the 2.0 patch, but my wheel feels much heavier than before when I enter settings I wrote down before patch 3.0.
Then messing with the relative gain only put me further away from the excellent feel I had before!!
Sorry to say that I don't like the new added sliders at all!
Go into your in car FFB and try setting your fy scale to 4.00. I've always had great success with Grimey's settings though at first it felt heavy and felt little wheel slip until I changed my fy to that value. I was using a regular CSR and found this to work for me. The other night I picked up a CSW v1 and thought I would keep the fy scale at what Grimey's settings recommend but it still felt heavy. So I went back in and changed the fy to 4.00 and now, as with the CSR, I can feel everything the car is doing and even more because of the better wheel. See if that works for you.

Linx
17-08-2015, 18:13
So I have a question regarding the Fanatec ebrake. As I mentioned earlier I picked up a CSW v1 but still have my CSR Elite pedals. Will these work together? Fanatec claims the handbrake only works with v2/v3 pedals. But I've looked at the CSR Elite pcb and there's a slot that's labeled "handbrake". Doing a search on it I found where someone made a connector and connected it to a home made handbrake and it works. I also found a link to another forum where someone says they have the Fanatec handbrake hooked to their Elite pedals. But the thread is more about voltage spikes he's getting from having his wheel mounted to a metal base rather then the combination of the two peripherals. Wierd thing is I can only see up to post #12 and the page gets stuck trying to finish loading. Don't know why cuz I tried it on my phone, tablet, and PC. So I can't look further into the thread to see if there was anything else mentioned about the combination. Does anyone know if it'll work or not? Really wanna pick up the handbrake.

Kain NL
17-08-2015, 18:44
Go into your in car FFB and try setting your fy scale to 4.00. I've always had great success with Grimey's settings though at first it felt heavy and felt little wheel slip until I changed my fy to that value. I was using a regular CSR and found this to work for me. The other night I picked up a CSW v1 and thought I would keep the fy scale at what Grimey's settings recommend but it still felt heavy. So I went back in and changed the fy to 4.00 and now, as with the CSR, I can feel everything the car is doing and even more because of the better wheel. See if that works for you.

I'll try this right now!!!

OMFG!!!!! You are THA MAN!!! That wasn't as strong before...but now I finally know which one to fine tune...THNX A LOT!!!!

Linx
17-08-2015, 19:31
Glad it worked for you I use Grimey's settings for all cars. But the fy is the only one I change and it feels excellent.

Kain NL
17-08-2015, 20:19
Well...the heavieness in the wheel is gone...but I still feel...after two laps at Zolder with the BMW M1 ProCar...like someone is pulling my wheel before a corner...I even tried driving without using my hands...and on the straights, it just pulls me to the side and goes spinning in that direction like hell!!

Grimey, you would do me a huge favor if you tried my settings to see if you experience the same problem!!!
Platform: PS4

Car: BMW 1M PROCAR. Track: Zolder

Wheel tuning menu. Fw 110

Sen: Aut
FF: 100
Sho:100
ABS: off
Lin: off
Dea: off
Dri: off
For: 100
Spr: 100
Dpr: off

Global settings control configuration.

Deadzones and sensitivity the way you like m.
Speed sens: 0
Controller filtering sen: 0
Damper saturation: 0
FFB: 78
Cim: 3
Advanced:
Soft steering damp: On
Visual wheel filtering: On
Opposite Lock help: Off

Controls Calibrate FFB screen.

TF:44
Linkage stiff: 1.00
Relative adjust gain: 0.98
Relative adjust bleed: 0.28
Relative adjust clamp: 0.96
Scoop knee: 0.70
Scoop red: 0.15

In car/pit box FFB settings.

Master scale: 84
Fx: 46
Fy: 58
Fz: 98
Mz: 72.01
Arm Angle: 1500

FFB body and Sop screen.

SoP scale: 84
SoP lateral: 50
SoP diff scale: 80

Elinea
18-08-2015, 07:41
@Titzon Toast...after patch 3.0 your friend with Fanatec GT2 is still using the settings you posted in #1559? For me it feels to "light" now. FFB in HUD Looks good and no clipping, but not strong enough...

GPRoadRunner
18-08-2015, 11:29
@Titzon Toast...after patch 3.0 your friend with Fanatec GT2 is still using the settings you posted in #1559? For me it feels to "light" now. FFB in HUD Looks good and no clipping, but not strong enough...

I too used these settings and again getting the same feeling of being, "Lighter" than before. Any recommendations as to tweaks is appreciated.

Fong74
18-08-2015, 11:42
Well...the heavieness in the wheel is gone...but I still feel...after two laps at Zolder with the BMW M1 ProCar...like someone is pulling my wheel before a corner...I even tried driving without using my hands...and on the straights, it just pulls me to the side and goes spinning in that direction like hell!!

FFB body and Sop screen.

SoP scale: 84
SoP lateral: 50
SoP diff scale: 80

Set the SoP settings to default or below. Should remove the "automatic" pulling into the corners


I have the issue with v3.0 that the spring effect is way too powerful now. The wheel starts to fight itself/oscillerate if I do S'es on a straight e.g. I can reduce the effect by reducing spring strength in ffb calibration or reduce master scale or reduce SPR on my CSW, but its not gone completely with that. Besides I want to keep SPR 100 as this displays all subtle road ffects more clearly....

I was completely fine with the FFb from v2.0. Now re-adjusting is necessary.

Any ideas guys?

p.s.:
If you loose your FFB and can't bring it back by restarting the wheel or the game crashes after repeteadly leaving a session to re-set some FFb values in the main menue, you have to restart the game or even reboot the PS4. There seems (dont kill me if its something different, it just feels like it according to the reports here in the forums and my own experiences) to be some memory leak issue harassing since v3.0. The devs are on it already though.

Fong74
18-08-2015, 11:46
Brake vibration with Fanatec CSPs v2


Testet it and it works with the Driver Settings Tool. But in the Game it does'nt work.

Same here.

GrimeyDog
18-08-2015, 12:14
Just go to the 'controls' setting menu and choose 'calibrate force feedback' first option there is...click left or right to choose: default, Classic or custom!
Did you reset your TOTAL wheel settings by pushing the , I believe, triangle button ? If you don't see that option.

@Grimey...I copied it 1 on 1...but the wheel is just to strong at fighting back...I mean when I turn left or right...there's just too much resistance in letting me steer in that direction...I will find out what to adjust...but it's gonna take some time...AGAIN...

The wheel is very strong indeed!!! I have Reduced my on the wheel FFB to 775 and all Feels Fine... You dont have to keep e wheel at 100% FFB as a Matter of Fact when i Reduced wheel FFB to 885 It was great but Now using 775 I get more eel because im Not losing the ssubtle FFB feel fighting against the power of the wheel.... and when i want more power because im driving FWD like the Clio i can Turn the FFB up to 85 again for cars that the steering feels light.
Plus the Major benefit its Now my wheel operates Cooler 95 degrees or less!!! when i was using 100% FFB the wheel would get as Hot as 125F. ive been using a infrared thermometer to measure and moniter the wheel motor Temp.

GrimeyDog
18-08-2015, 12:17
Automatic pulling into corners sounds like the Steering assist is on... i would delete the game and re-install it to make sure nothing got screwed up with the update.

Fong74
18-08-2015, 12:38
This effect is present if SoP values are too high imo. That was my expereince while testing different tweaking approaches.

If you're right concerning the broken game grimey, maybe deleting the savegame helps already? Re-installing can be done after that anyway, if the delete does not solve it.

GrimeyDog
18-08-2015, 14:21
Im Not Having any Problems with PCars after the uupdat.... Very Strange though if its sensing a corner trying to turn in for you that seems like steering Assist is on some how...im still running my same 2.0 tweek with update 3.0 and all feels Great Even better as a matter of fact. i would definitly un install the game, Clear the Cloud Memory and Re install it Fresh... I had to do that with update 2.0 and all has been well ever since.... all you need it 1 bit of Corrupt data and the whole game gets thrown off... thats easy to happen downloading update after update... I still keep my SOP Scale set to 100
10
100
0

Kain NL
18-08-2015, 16:11
Set the SoP settings to default or below. Should remove the "automatic" pulling into the corners


I have the issue with v3.0 that the spring effect is way too powerful now. The wheel starts to fight itself/oscillerate if I do S'es on a straight e.g. I can reduce the effect by reducing spring strength in ffb calibration or reduce master scale or reduce SPR on my CSW, but its not gone completely with that. Besides I want to keep SPR 100 as this displays all subtle road ffects more clearly....

I was completely fine with the FFb from v2.0. Now re-adjusting is necessary.

Any ideas guys?

p.s.:
If you loose your FFB and can't bring it back by restarting the wheel or the game crashes after repeteadly leaving a session to re-set some FFb values in the main menue, you have to restart the game or even reboot the PS4. There seems (dont kill me if its something different, it just feels like it according to the reports here in the forums and my own experiences) to be some memory leak issue harassing since v3.0. The devs are on it already though.

It's BEFORE corners and on straights. It's exactly like you discribe...at Zolder, after last chicane...the straight heading to start/finish. I took my hands completely of the wheel. The wheel starts to turn slowly to the right and while moving it turns faster and faster and keeps wall riding....then..loosening the throttle, still no hands on wheel, results in the wheel starts slowly turning to left and again rapidly turning faster to end up left wall riding. It literally feels like someone is holding and pulling the wheel left or right when you hold it...
I also shifted various sliders... But can't seem to get rid of it

GrimeyDog
18-08-2015, 16:16
It's BEFORE corners and on straights. It's exactly like you discribe...at Zolder, after last chicane...the straight heading to start/finish. I took my hands completely of the wheel. The wheel starts to turn slowly to the right and while moving it turns faster and faster and keeps wall riding....then..loosening the throttle, still no hands on wheel, results in the wheel starts slowly turning to left and again rapidly turning faster to end up left wall riding. It literally feels like someone is holding and pulling the wheel left or right when you hold it...
I also shifted various sliders... But can't seem to get rid of it

What Car are you Driving??? and what is your Relative adjust Bleed setting???

Kain NL
18-08-2015, 16:19
Concerning the save data erase etc...been way ahead of you guys...I did delete my save game data AND did a rebuild data sequence on the ps4...now I'm kinda regretting it...did a FULL PCars delete yesterday, and have to find out if that worked out okay.
I never had and never will use the steering assist mode...so I really don't know how that could have slipped in...and yeah...I checked 3 times before starting a race.
Just try my settings with that car on that track in free practice mode guys...hope you experience the same!!

gotdirt410sprintcar
18-08-2015, 16:27
Do you guys calibrate wheel to full 900? and does the wheel go to 100 percent or 99 when I do the first full turn it only goes to 99 but it has went to 100 before. wheel is gt3rs


I found it Grimey thanks though

Linx
18-08-2015, 17:09
Sorry this is off the FFB topic but still Fanatec related. Does anyone know the size bolt that's used to lock in the BMW M3 GT2 wheel? When I picked mine up it wasn't included and I'm not comfortable with the little play that exists

xXDoc187Xx
18-08-2015, 18:38
Anyone else with a 911 turbo s get 98 turning to left and 99 turning to right when SEN set to off when calibrating? And I get 99 both ways on SEN 900°

Sankyo
18-08-2015, 20:45
I am losing my mind. I have the Fantec GT3 RS v2 and elite pedals. They are just collecting dust. After 2.0 it was the random game crashes that sullied my interest. 3.0 comes out and I am once again scratching my head.

Problem one: (likely a problem with the wheel and not PC) when I turn on the wheel and it auto calibrates (the spinning of the wheel) it rolls through everything but when it is finished the center is off by at least one full rotation. So when I try to calibrate the wheel in game, I can only turn the wheel 90 degrees counter clockwise and well over 900 clockwise. This happens even before I boot PC.

Problem two: I can't find this "classic" setting that is being spoken of here on the boards. I'd like to start there and see if the game is playable with my setup before I invest a bunch of time and effort that will ultimately end in frustration.

Any help on either front would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
CRXsi

The auto calibration going off by a full rotation is likely to be a hardware issue (codewheel sensor). You should contact Fanatec Support about this.

Sum Dixon-Ear
18-08-2015, 22:11
The auto calibration going off by a full rotation is likely to be a hardware issue (codewheel sensor). You should contact Fanatec Support about this.
I would try recalibrating the centre point using the wheel's software first, if it's not a hardware issue that should hopefully sort it out.

Titzon Toast
18-08-2015, 22:49
I would try recalibrating the centre point using the wheel's software first, if it's not a hardware issue that should hopefully sort it out.
This.^^^
It sounds exactly like the problem I had a couple of weeks ago, I recentred my wheel on my laptop and it was perfectly fine afterwards.

Sum Dixon-Ear
18-08-2015, 22:58
You can recalibrate using the firmware, no need to hook up to the drivers.

Luxman_
19-08-2015, 00:09
The issue with CSS SQ 1.5 continues on patch 3.0

Issue: SQ 1.5 is inverted, if I assign the correct way to work, no longer works at the same time of the paddles of the rim.

Youtube Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEKWDUOQEf4



Correct operate mode, for someone o tells this is a correct way, please see the video and see ao sequential shifting works...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fjlm9BoaiZg

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XviGi4u0eTA

Fanapryde
19-08-2015, 03:23
The issue with CSS SQ 1.5 continues on patch 3.0

Issue: SQ 1.5 is inverted, if I assign the correct way to work, no longer works at the same time of the paddles of the
That is clearly not the right way, but I am a but confused here. Are you saying that you can assign it in the correct way if not working at the same time of the paddles ?
In that case I would use it like that and forget the paddles.

Cabriojoschy
19-08-2015, 04:09
That is clearly not the right way, but I am a but confused here. Are you saying that you can assign it in the correct way if not working at the same time of the paddles ?
In that case I would use it like that and forget the paddles.

But this can't be the solution. It should be working at the same time, as in any other game! There are cars having paddles and others haven't. Is the solution not to drive the ones with paddles on the wheel???

Linx
19-08-2015, 04:30
My understanding is if you want to use the sequential then you have to map it to that and then paddles are innactive. Then if you want to use paddles then you have to go back and map that and the sequential becomes innactive. But I'm wondering something regarding the direction of shifts with the sequential. Are you trying this in a BMW? Cuz in my real BMW, when I shift in sequential mode, pulling down shifts up and pushing up shifts down. Never made sense to me why they did it that way but if you're having this issue driving a BMW, maybe it's meant to be like the real thing.

EDIT: OK I just watched the videos posted I guess that's the way it's supposed to be then

Cabriojoschy
19-08-2015, 04:50
That is the point. It is working well at the same time, but the layout of the sequential shifter is inverted. If you only want to use the shifter, you can 1. map it or 2. set it to invert shifting. If you do the first the wheel paddles will not work anymore. If you do the second the wheel paddles are inverted too. I think the solution should be simple to implement for the devs...

Luxman_
19-08-2015, 08:10
If The options for map the SQ correctly, is outside of the lobby.

So, this is not a solution.

I think this simple for devs too, just invert the map, and make ir correct,

For race cars, like the game it is. Racing Game.

Fanapryde
19-08-2015, 08:23
But this can't be the solution. It should be working at the same time, as in any other game! There are cars having paddles and others haven't. Is the solution not to drive the ones with paddles on the wheel???
I think this is how the game is set up.
I don't use automatic clutch and mostly use H-pattern or wheel paddles, depending on the car. Now if a car uses SQ (i am a bit lazy about changing the plates on my TH8A shifter all the time), I can drive it using the H-pattern, or the paddles, but sometimes I am required to also use the clutch to change gears.
In cars that use H, i can use paddles, but also need tthe clutch.
In cars that use paddles, I can shift the H, without using the clutch...

Now, since my shifter is connected to an external powered USB which I can switch off, that opens up other possibilities.
When I switch that off (so the game does not recognise the shifter), I can drive all cars with the paddles. But in some cases it builds in some extra time to shift from one gear to another.
It was a bit confusing in the beginning, since I like to drive the cars as they are meant to be.
I am now waiting for my Fanatec stuff, including the SQ shifter, which needs only a slider switch to move from H to SQ. That would make it a lot easier.
On the other hand: I have a custom aluminium SQ plate for the TH8, that works a lot better than the stock plastic one. A bit sad that switching plates takes too much time if you try different cars all the time.

Titzon Toast
19-08-2015, 08:45
You can recalibrate using the firmware, no need to hook up to the drivers.

Don't tell me what to do...

dannydizzal
19-08-2015, 09:12
Titzon, youre settings are good for GT2 also right?

Ive got a used setup arriving tomorrow, i need to source a UK Power lead, so anyone know the voltage i would need?

Sum Dixon-Ear
19-08-2015, 10:13
Don't tell me what to do...
Haud yer wheest Nibbler.

Sum Dixon-Ear
19-08-2015, 10:25
Titzon, youre settings are good for GT2 also right?

Ive got a used setup arriving tomorrow, i need to source a UK Power lead, so anyone know the voltage i would need?

You need a 24V DC, 2.5A power supply, Fanatec sell the official brick here - http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/racing-wheel-accessories/porsche-wheel-power-supply-eu-eu.html

A laptop supply with the correct rating and plug will do just fine though.

Titzon Toast
19-08-2015, 11:31
Haud yer wheest Nibbler.

That's it, you're getting nibbled like no-one has ever been nibbled before bitch...

Titzon Toast
19-08-2015, 11:35
Titzon, youre settings are good for GT2 also right?

Ive got a used setup arriving tomorrow, i need to source a UK Power lead, so anyone know the voltage i would need?

Savoury is a Fanatec maestro, trust his advice about your power supply.
I'm jumping onto PC in a few hours to tweak my ffb and wheel settings and then I'm going to post them up here for anyone who's interested in trying them out.
I've been flat out painting my house for the last week!

Fong74
19-08-2015, 12:04
Two very positive points from my tests yesterday evening:

1. I got rid of wheel pulling to the center yesterday evening by setting SPR and DPR to 100. Had both OFF before with v1.4, then SPR 100 with v2.0 as this gave me a better feeling for the subtle road effects.

I was really frustrated after v3.0 as I was not able to get rid of the pulling by changing ingame FFb parameters.

Yesterday I was talking about that issue with a friend and he mentioned by accident, that he had DPR 100 since v3.0. I would never ever had thought about that, as I assumed I would not need to change wheel settings on the V2. But looking back, it felt exactly like that: a spring without damping.

Now FFb is a blast again! Even better than before the update. Im so glad to have the sim back I do enjoy so much :congratulatory:

A hint from SMS that some aspects concerning the V2 support have changed (which obviously is the case) would have come in very handy though :o


2. And that one is a little bit esotheric....my brake pedal rumble works now with my CSPs V2 :cool:
Releasing the brake and noticing that the wheels just started to lock is a huge addon to immersion. Also when I loose a wheel and the car is scratching over the ground makes my whole rig vibrate. How cool is that? LOVING it!

To the ones who state that the vibration is very, maybe too, subtle: try ripping a cars wheel off for a test and have a go like that. This will give you the strongest vibration available.

For the wheel lock effect: in most of the views (except cockpit) you have an ABS and TCS indicator. The rumble module attached to the brake pedal starts rotating when the ABS indicator ingame starts flashing. You usually dont feel anything so far. When the indicator is permanently lit, the vibration becomes gradually noticeable. If you continue braking under load it gets stronger. To be able to do that you need to go quite fast and brake hard. I tested with a GT3 SLS at Monza. 1st chicane, almost nothing. 2nd chicane more vibration if you trail brake into the left kink. Parabolica is a good place to test, but very bumpy track there in the braking zone, so the wheel is fully alive, too, which maybe makes noticing the pedal vibration a bit hard.

In general the effect is very nicely implemented imho. It shows you when the wheels start to loose traction. A perfect addition to the already superb V2 support in pCars.

p.s.:
writing this I recall to have re-attached all cables on my rig some days back.....and the PS2 cable was a bit loose in the corresponding CSP V2 socket. I put it in tight as it should be. Maybe this was the issue I had with the missing vibration...

GrimeyDog
19-08-2015, 15:17
Two very positive points from my tests yesterday evening:

1. I got rid of wheel pulling to the center yesterday evening by setting SPR and DPR to 100. Had both OFF before with v1.4, then SPR 100 with v2.0 as this gave me a better feeling for the subtle road effects.

I was really frustrated after v3.0 as I was not able to get rid of the pulling by changing ingame FFb parameters.

Yesterday I was talking about that issue with a friend and he mentioned by accident, that he had DPR 100 since v3.0. I would never ever had thought about that, as I assumed I would not need to change wheel settings on the V2. But looking back, it felt exactly like that: a spring without damping.

Now FFb is a blast again! Even better than before the update. Im so glad to have the sim back I do enjoy so much :congratulatory:

A hint from SMS that some aspects concerning the V2 support have changed (which obviously is the case) would have come in very handy though :o


2. And that one is a little bit esotheric....my brake pedal rumble works now with my CSPs V2 :cool:
Releasing the brake and noticing that the wheels just started to lock is a huge addon to immersion. Also when I loose a wheel and the car is scratching over the ground makes my whole rig vibrate. How cool is that? LOVING it!

To the ones who state that the vibration is very, maybe too, subtle: try ripping a cars wheel off for a test and have a go like that. This will give you the strongest vibration available.

For the wheel lock effect: in most of the views (except cockpit) you have an ABS and TCS indicator. The rumble module attached to the brake pedal starts rotating when the ABS indicator ingame starts flashing. You usually dont feel anything so far. When the indicator is permanently lit, the vibration becomes gradually noticeable. If you continue braking under load it gets stronger. To be able to do that you need to go quite fast and brake hard. I tested with a GT3 SLS at Monza. 1st chicane, almost nothing. 2nd chicane more vibration if you trail brake into the left kink. Parabolica is a good place to test, but very bumpy track there in the braking zone, so the wheel is fully alive, too, which maybe makes noticing the pedal vibration a bit hard.

In general the effect is very nicely implemented imho. It shows you when the wheels start to loose traction. A perfect addition to the already superb V2 support in pCars.

p.s.:
writing this I recall to have re-attached all cables on my rig some days back.....and the PS2 cable was a bit loose in the corresponding CSP V2 socket. I put it in tight as it should be. Maybe this was the issue I had with the missing vibration...

So the Brake Rumble effect is Not available in Cockpit View??? Thats the View i use 99% of the time.... Viewt just stronger in Bumer View??? I can feel it but its very faint... the throttle Rumble i Clearly Feel every time the wheels slip or soin

Fong74
19-08-2015, 15:55
It is Grimey. I just tried to explain how the rumble correlates to the ABS indicator on the games HUD while driving. You dont have the generic HUD in cockpit view (which is the only one I use for racing actually), so to test this I switched to bonnet view e.g. There you can see the icon and make sure you are pushing the car hard enough for the rumble to occur = icon to flash first and constantly being lit.

My assumption is, that some ppl just dont push hard enough to get the rumble going. I did realize its working after a few laps of driving yesterday tbh. Immersion is so tense in pCars, that I was fully focusing on getting a solid time set in TT (GT3 SLS @ Monza) and completely missed the rumbling. After that I jumped into the Lotus in the current Community Challenge, which I lost badly in one corner, so I lost the front left wheel. With the rumble going full speed ahead then I noticed it. Back to the SLS @ Monza TT session.....and it was there too.

What a happy Fong that was, man ;) And I still am. Really like that feature. Expands immersion to me really noticeable.

GrimeyDog
19-08-2015, 16:57
I Agree 100% Im Sooo Focused on keeping my Lap Clean and Fast that im Not Focusing on the ABS Rumble Feel... The throttle Rumble kicks in often while Im Screeetching the Tires through a corner!!!

Kain NL
19-08-2015, 17:20
My wheel settings spr and dpr are also set to OFF. So I'm gonna try that ASAP...if that does it for me too...I'm a happy PS4 racer again!!!! Cause for the first time in PCars history I went to go racing on my XOne because it still has patch 2.0 on it !!!

Concerning the wheel lock up rumble...THAT SUCKS BIG TIME that it only works when ABS assist is used. I hardly ever use assists, so I won't be able to feel it at all ???? And yes...I know it's called ABS rumble...but ABS prevents wheels for locking up, that's where it was designed for!!!! So why loosening the brake pedal!!!!
I need it when I feel the wheels lock up at ANY TIME to know when I need to loosen up the brakes!!!

SMS devs....could you PLEASE edit the rumble too when ABS assist is OFF, PLEASE ??

Titzon Toast
19-08-2015, 17:58
FORCE FEEDBACK

Tyre force 100 XXX
P.W.M 0.00
P.W.M.S 0.00
W.P..S 0.00
D.R.R 0.00
D.R.F 0.00
Linkage scale 0.00
Linkage stiffness 1.00
Linkage Damp. 0.00
Rel Adj Gain 0.98
Rel Adj bleed 0.18
Rel Adj Clamp 0.96
Scoop Knee 0.70
Scoop Reduction 0.15
Soft Clipping 0.00
Soft Clipping Full 0.00

Menu Spring Strength 0.00
Low Speed Coefficient 0.75
Steering Gain 1.00



CONFIGURATION

Steering 50%
Throttle, Brake, & Clutch 75% XXX
All deadzones 0%
Speed Sen 0
Filter sensitivity 0
Damp Sat 0
Force Feedback 100 XXX
Controller imp mode 3
Advance On
Opposite Lock Help OFF

WHEEL

SEN Off
FF 100
SHO 100
DRI OFF XXX
ABS 85
LIN 000/off
DEA 000/off
SPR 000/off
DPR 000/off
ACL OFF

There you go folks, I've marked any settings that I've changed since patch 3.0 with X's.
I've ran two cars so far with Jack spades' new 66% ffb settings and the everything felt good to me anyway.
If anyone can improve on these please fire ahead.
I found it very strange that in the patch notes it recommended a Steering Gain value of 1.0 or under for detail over clipping, yet the default setting I was given was 5.0! If any non-forum reading GT2 or 3 or Turbo-S users didn't spot that, they'd be left wondering what was wrong.
Two of my friends have CSR V2's and their default Steering Gain was set at the correct 1.0 setting. Strange.

Fong74
20-08-2015, 14:10
My wheel settings spr and dpr are also set to OFF. So I'm gonna try that ASAP...if that does it for me too...I'm a happy PS4 racer again!!!! Cause for the first time in PCars history I went to go racing on my XOne because it still has patch 2.0 on it !!!

Concerning the wheel lock up rumble...THAT SUCKS BIG TIME that it only works when ABS assist is used. I hardly ever use assists, so I won't be able to feel it at all ???? And yes...I know it's called ABS rumble...but ABS prevents wheels for locking up, that's where it was designed for!!!! So why loosening the brake pedal!!!!
I need it when I feel the wheels lock up at ANY TIME to know when I need to loosen up the brakes!!!

SMS devs....could you PLEASE edit the rumble too when ABS assist is OFF, PLEASE ??

It works with cars that have no ABS at all, too. I realized its there with an old Lotus formula car on three wheels :D

Ill try later if locking tires are displayed through the brake pedal also with such old cars.

GrimeyDog
20-08-2015, 14:24
IMO... SMS Complicated the ABS feature... it woulda been just fine if they left it the way it worked in Assetto Corsa, GT6, Forza Etc... Just let s set the # on the wheel for how much pedal Travel we want before it kicks in.... This way is Great though because all cars Handle and have different braking lock up points... I Now trust that SMS will get it Right though... The updates Have been Great so far.

GrimeyDog
20-08-2015, 14:28
Fong74/ Kain NL .... tell me Step by step what i have to do to get the ABS feature to work??? I want to try it.

flatspunout
20-08-2015, 14:40
FORCE FEEDBACK

Tyre force 100 XXX
P.W.M 0.00
P.W.M.S 0.00
W.P..S 0.00
D.R.R 0.00
D.R.F 0.00
Linkage scale 0.00
Linkage stiffness 1.00
Linkage Damp. 0.00
Rel Adj Gain 0.98
Rel Adj bleed 0.18
Rel Adj Clamp 0.96
Scoop Knee 0.70
Scoop Reduction 0.15
Soft Clipping 0.00
Soft Clipping Full 0.00

Menu Spring Strength 0.00
Low Speed Coefficient 0.75
Steering Gain 1.00



CONFIGURATION

Steering 50%
Throttle, Brake, & Clutch 75% XXX
All deadzones 0%
Speed Sen 0
Filter sensitivity 0
Damp Sat 0
Force Feedback 100 XXX
Controller imp mode 3
Advance On
Opposite Lock Help OFF

WHEEL

SEN Off
FF 100
SHO 100
DRI OFF XXX
ABS 85
LIN 000/off
DEA 000/off
SPR 000/off
DPR 000/off
ACL OFF

There you go folks, I've marked any settings that I've changed since patch 3.0 with X's.
I've ran two cars so far with Jack spades' new 66% ffb settings and the everything felt good to me anyway.
If anyone can improve on these please fire ahead.
I found it very strange that in the patch notes it recommended a Steering Gain value of 1.0 or under for detail over clipping, yet the default setting I was given was 5.0! If any non-forum reading GT2 or 3 or Turbo-S users didn't spot that, they'd be left wondering what was wrong.
Two of my friends have CSR V2's and their default Steering Gain was set at the correct 1.0 setting. Strange.

Is this for CSR (not elite)?

Fong74
20-08-2015, 14:46
IMO... SMS Complicated the ABS feature... it woulda been just fine if they left it the way it worked in Assetto Corsa, GT6, Forza Etc... Just let s set the # on the wheel for how much pedal Travel we want before it kicks in.... This way is Great though because all cars Handle and have different braking lock up points... I Now trust that SMS will get it Right though... The updates Have been Great so far.

I disaggree there Grimey. A dynamic rumble (initiated by the game when simulated wheels really lock up) is way better than the generic one we had all those years in the past. Now our Fanatec CSPs are used to full extent. I know, it might be a nerdish approach, but thats what I like about it, too. The full and dynamic support.

Just tested it: with vintage race cars rumble is active, too, when wheels lock. It is not that strong, but its there. So "ABS rumble" is not the correct naming. It should be more like "Wheel lock rumble".


What to do to enable it? Nothing, I gues. Its just there. I guess my PS/2 cable was not plugged in correctly so far. Since I have corrected it, all is fine. My settings are in my sig, I did not set or enable anything else.

You have to push hard in a GT3 car to get it. Use a Lotus 49 in Monza and lock those tires completely....it should be there, too. Rip a wheel off for a test and drive with the car like that to get full rumble effect.

Titzon Toast
20-08-2015, 15:50
Is this for CSR (not elite)?

They are settings for my Turbo-S, but my buddy uses them for his GT2 as well.

Kain NL
20-08-2015, 18:15
I really love the BMW M1 Pro car...that's an oldie too and I really miss out on the rumble...and believe me....I pushed the pedal almost through my rig...time after time. Maybe it's just the weak V3 motor...but I can't compare anymore...sold my V2s.

GrimeyDog
20-08-2015, 18:50
I disaggree there Grimey. A dynamic rumble (initiated by the game when simulated wheels really lock up) is way better than the generic one we had all those years in the past. Now our Fanatec CSPs are used to full extent. I know, it might be a nerdish approach, but thats what I like about it, too. The full and dynamic support.

Just tested it: with vintage race cars rumble is active, too, when wheels lock. It is not that strong, but its there. So "ABS rumble" is not the correct naming. It should be more like "Wheel lock rumble".


What to do to enable it? Nothing, I gues. Its just there. I guess my PS/2 cable was not plugged in correctly so far. Since I have corrected it, all is fine. My settings are in my sig, I did not set or enable anything else.

You have to push hard in a GT3 car to get it. Use a Lotus 49 in Monza and lock those tires completely....it should be there, too. Rip a wheel off for a test and drive with the car like that to get full rumble effect.

Dynamic Rumble... Hhhhmmm Ok im Sold...I Will Agree... Especially because Dynamic Rumble sounds sooo Much More High Tec and alot Cooler. LOL

Linx
20-08-2015, 18:57
Does anyone know if the rumble is working with the CSR Elite pedals. Since the update I've barely had time to play and my focus had been more on my new wheel then pedals. Grimey, can you tell me what you have your on wheel settings at?

GrimeyDog
20-08-2015, 19:32
Does anyone know if the rumble is working with the CSR Elite pedals. Since the update I've barely had time to play and my focus had been more on my new wheel then pedals. Grimey, can you tell me what you have your on wheel settings at?

Sen Aut
FFB 75
Sho 100
ABS 15 ***for pcars only to activate the ABS Rumble Quicker***
Lin Off
Dea Off
Dri Off
For 100
Spr 100
Dpr 100
BrF 30 (Only shows on wheel when v3 pedals are Connected)

Using Default 2.0 FFB profile and my V#009 Tweek.
I Have Not Moved or adjusted any of the Center Spring Sliders

Linx
20-08-2015, 20:05
Thanks so much Grimey. Can't wait to get home to try this

Kain NL
20-08-2015, 21:04
Okay Guys, thnx for all the hunches and help.
BUT I found the problem in my FFB CALIBRATION SETTINGS. I had my 'Linkage Scale' set to 0.18. Try it....just for fun...real weird how the wheel gets pulled on straights..BUT it kicks in after 2 or 3 laps...when tires are at right temperature!!! I also set my DPR and SPR back to OFF...and with Linkage Scale set to 0.00 still no wheel pulling....so I'm good again!!!
@Fong....MAN HAVE I FELT THAT wheel lock rumble. I also wreckt my car, front right wheel lost....the vib motor spins like hell!!! I hope the SMS devs can speed the vib motor up too for locking up the wheels...cause when that happens I really DON'T feel anything. I've got my wheel ABS set to 45. Will try it setting to OFF asap...see when and how it kicks in then ?

Laughing Gravy
20-08-2015, 23:17
FORCE FEEDBACK
I found it very strange that in the patch notes it recommended a Steering Gain value of 1.0 or under for detail over clipping, yet the default setting I was given was 5.0! If any non-forum reading GT2 or 3 or Turbo-S users didn't spot that, they'd be left wondering what was wrong.
Two of my friends have CSR V2's and their default Steering Gain was set at the correct 1.0 setting. Strange.

Changing the Steering Gain down to 1 made a huge difference in the feel of my GT3 wheel. After the most recent patch my wheel was massively over clipping. My solution was to turn the Tire Force down to 20, but this lead to a washed out feel to the FFB. After I plugged in your tweaks my wheel came alive. Thanks so much for the assist.

Titzon Toast
20-08-2015, 23:43
Changing the Steering Gain down to 1 made a huge difference in the feel of my GT3 wheel. After the most recent patch my wheel was massively over clipping. My solution was to turn the Tire Force down to 20, but this lead to a washed out feel to the FFB. After I plugged in your tweaks my wheel came alive. Thanks so much for the assist.

You're welcome man. I love the Pug btw!

Laughing Gravy
20-08-2015, 23:58
You're welcome man. I love the Pug btw!

Thanks. That's my main man relaxing in my old gaming rig.

Turboman_450
21-08-2015, 02:22
FORCE FEEDBACK

Tyre force 100 XXX
P.W.M 0.00
P.W.M.S 0.00
W.P..S 0.00
D.R.R 0.00
D.R.F 0.00
Linkage scale 0.00
Linkage stiffness 1.00
Linkage Damp. 0.00
Rel Adj Gain 0.98
Rel Adj bleed 0.18
Rel Adj Clamp 0.96
Scoop Knee 0.70
Scoop Reduction 0.15
Soft Clipping 0.00
Soft Clipping Full 0.00

Menu Spring Strength 0.00
Low Speed Coefficient 0.75
Steering Gain 1.00



CONFIGURATION

Steering 50%
Throttle, Brake, & Clutch 75% XXX
All deadzones 0%
Speed Sen 0
Filter sensitivity 0
Damp Sat 0
Force Feedback 100 XXX
Controller imp mode 3
Advance On
Opposite Lock Help OFF

WHEEL

SEN Off
FF 100
SHO 100
DRI OFF XXX
ABS 85
LIN 000/off
DEA 000/off
SPR 000/off
DPR 000/off
ACL OFF

There you go folks, I've marked any settings that I've changed since patch 3.0 with X's.
I've ran two cars so far with Jack spades' new 66% ffb settings and the everything felt good to me anyway.
If anyone can improve on these please fire ahead.
I found it very strange that in the patch notes it recommended a Steering Gain value of 1.0 or under for detail over clipping, yet the default setting I was given was 5.0! If any non-forum reading GT2 or 3 or Turbo-S users didn't spot that, they'd be left wondering what was wrong.
Two of my friends have CSR V2's and their default Steering Gain was set at the correct 1.0 setting. Strange.



I want to try your settings for my GT3 RS but you said you used Jack Spades new 66% ffb settings. Where can I find Jack Spades settings.

Elinea
21-08-2015, 07:07
@Titzon Toast....thanks for posting your setup. Tried them with Fanatec GT2 and they worked super, no clipping. Just have to find the trigger to get stronger FFB to get a more better feel.

Mascot
21-08-2015, 07:27
Had a few issues since 3.0 on PS4. Fanatec GT2 and CSPs.

FFB disappears occasionally but at least a power cycle now cures it without getting a fatal error.

The oddest one was last night where my whole pedal set seemed to be vibrating, even in the menus. I started a race and found that the vibration was ABS brake rumble, because the brakes were 100% applied (I exited the pit lane and came to an abrupt stop). A power cycle seemed to cure it but then as soon as I touched the brakes, they locked on 100% again. Another power cycle cured it for the rest of the 3-hour session.

Something's off though. It'll be annoying if this keeps cropping up.

Fong74
21-08-2015, 07:52
Okay Guys, thnx for all the hunches and help.
BUT I found the problem in my FFB CALIBRATION SETTINGS. I had my 'Linkage Scale' set to 0.18. Try it....just for fun...real weird how the wheel gets pulled on straights..BUT it kicks in after 2 or 3 laps...when tires are at right temperature!!! I also set my DPR and SPR back to OFF...and with Linkage Scale set to 0.00 still no wheel pulling....so I'm good again!!!
@Fong....MAN HAVE I FELT THAT wheel lock rumble. I also wreckt my car, front right wheel lost....the vib motor spins like hell!!! I hope the SMS devs can speed the vib motor up too for locking up the wheels...cause when that happens I really DON'T feel anything. I've got my wheel ABS set to 45. Will try it setting to OFF asap...see when and how it kicks in then ?

Glad to hear youre good again with the wheel! :)

For the rumble:
I tested the BMW Pro Car and it has almost no vibration going on. After testing for some days now it seems to me that the effect is somehow dynamic depending on the specific car. A Lotus 49 has a noticeable rumble when tires lock. This car has no ABS at all. With all GT3 cars the rumble is present, but varies. The strongest one was with the SLS I would say. Maybe its weight dependant? Would be cool to know what triggers it in the game exactly and based on what the dynamic of the vibration is calculated.

I run ABS OFF on my CSW v2. I Did not test the other settings since I have the rumle as I am good now.

memoric77
21-08-2015, 11:43
I want to try your settings for my GT3 RS but you said you used Jack Spades new 66% ffb settings. Where can I find Jack Spades settings.

I am GT3 User too and searching for best practice settings.

Titzon Toast
21-08-2015, 12:22
@ Elinea & Memoric77

I can't post links properly on my phone for some reason but, Oscarolim has made a great app that is available in his thread on the main PS4 page on these forums, titled.

Universal FFB Settings for PS4/XB1 WebApp

He has generously updated it to Jack Spades 2.0 settings.
Good luck.

Fanapryde
21-08-2015, 16:52
That is the point. It is working well at the same time, but the layout of the sequential shifter is inverted. If you only want to use the shifter, you can 1. map it or 2. set it to invert shifting. If you do the first the wheel paddles will not work anymore. If you do the second the wheel paddles are inverted too. I think the solution should be simple to implement for the devs...

SOLUTION

---->. Enable inverted gearing in the control scheme menu !

"""Inverted Gearing is for sequential gearboxes, where you want push forward for gear up/pull back for gear down, like a rally car"""

Kain NL
21-08-2015, 17:50
@Titzon Toast....thanks for posting your setup. Tried them with Fanatec GT2 and they worked super, no clipping. Just have to find the trigger to get stronger FFB to get a more better feel.

Elinea, slightly turn up the Tire Force slider till you're happy with the feel!! That should do it, and use the NAMES of Grimeys pdf if you want specific more feel on, for example curbs etc.

Elinea
21-08-2015, 20:04
Elinea, slightly turn up the Tire Force slider till you're happy with the feel!! That should do it, and use the NAMES of Grimeys pdf if you want specific more feel on, for example curbs etc.

So I should use more than 100 Tire Force? Most of the time I use the 66% Settings...but will give it a try.

Kain NL
21-08-2015, 20:28
Ah, you're using the 66%...maybe try the extra bump version...to me the spades are also too weak...
I use tweaked Grimeys...but I have the V2

Titzon Toast
21-08-2015, 22:37
So I should use more than 100 Tire Force? Most of the time I use the 66% Settings...but will give it a try.

You could crank up the Master Scale and Sop scale in tandem, or you could try turning up the Tire Force, just look at your FFB graph while test driving and make sure its not flat lining up or down.
I know Grimey uses 100 Master Scale but my old wheel can't handle that!

GrimeyDog
22-08-2015, 00:20
My Settings you dont Have to keep the Masters at 100... i just like alot of FFB...you can turn them down and the wheel is alot Calmer... The V2 handles it fine.

Solodan
22-08-2015, 06:26
That is the point. It is working well at the same time, but the layout of the sequential shifter is inverted. If you only want to use the shifter, you can 1. map it or 2. set it to invert shifting. If you do the first the wheel paddles will not work anymore. If you do the second the wheel paddles are inverted too. I think the solution should be simple to implement for the devs...

Im guessing a multimeter ? dutch, not sure of the english name, would solve it if the devs dont. Switch the wires for UP/Down shifting in the cable of your sequential shifter and your done.

Greetings Solodan.

rolfu
22-08-2015, 07:38
Does someone know, if telemetry data on the smartphone works with a v2 base?

Titzon Toast
22-08-2015, 10:04
Basically: Master scale: don't up it too much, 26 is fine in most cases.
Fx: FFB when acc/braking
Fy: How heavy your wheel feels when cornering
Fz: How much FFB over bumps*and kerbs
Mz: How much FFB when losing traction

I found this posted on GTP, very handy.

EDIT
Credit to mister dog!

Raikku
22-08-2015, 11:03
So anyone has those post-3.0 ffb-settings for CSW v2?

Titzon Toast
22-08-2015, 13:57
So anyone has those post-3.0 ffb-settings for CSW v2?

GrimeyDog is the V2 man.

Cabriojoschy
22-08-2015, 15:07
Im guessing a multimeter ? dutch, not sure of the english name, would solve it if the devs dont. Switch the wires for UP/Down shifting in the cable of your sequential shifter and your done.

Greetings Solodan.
Maybe this would work (I would have to measure it) but I think that is not my job ;). Next time you have to solder in your wheel to make it work?!? And if I play another game I would have to change it again. Hopefully this is addressed somewhere as the threat is getting very confusing with 172 pages...

gruzzlebeard
22-08-2015, 15:14
Hi folks. I was just after the patch out for one week. Now I tried to catch-up the postings and start testing. I just noticed if I use the classic settings I get I white FFB line in the Telemetry data. The yellow line is above and is just straight. Even if I change settings from there to custom it appears. If I use the default everything is fine. Does this have a special meaning?

From which basic settings did you start your tweak - from default or classic?
BTW I restet my wheel calibration - did you do the same?
Should I delete my game profile and setup a new one? I consider this right now.

Titzon Toast
22-08-2015, 17:26
Hi folks. I was just after the patch out for one week. Now I tried to catch-up the postings and start testing. I just noticed if I use the classic settings I get I white FFB line in the Telemetry data. The yellow line is above and is just straight. Even if I change settings from there to custom it appears. If I use the default everything is fine. Does this have a special meaning?

From which basic settings did you start your tweak - from default or classic?
BTW I restet my wheel calibration - did you do the same?
Should I delete my game profile and setup a new one? I consider this right now.& FFB
New – implemented the ability via menu sliders for the user to manually tweak the menu spring strength, stationary / low speed spring strength, and overall steering gain:
Menu Spring – the strength of the wheel centering spring in the front end and in-game pause menu.
Low Speed Spring Coefficient & Saturation – the weight of the steering at slow speeds (<10mph) and when the car is stationary. The saturation is the maximum force for the spring and the coefficient is how quickly the spring takes effect. To avoid "cogging / notching" effects when stationary its best to leave the spring coefficient high and lower the saturation.
Steering Gain – the gain (multiplier) applied to all steering effects (steering force, jolts, kerb rumble etc) after they have been mixed. For a clean more detailed experience set at 1.0 or below, for stronger feedback at the expense of clipping set higher (maximum value 5).

New – the Force Feedback Calibration screen now features a multiple force feedback profile selection system whereby the user can select a base FFB style that suits personal preference, and then tweak it further as desired. You can now switch between current FFB settings (Default) and pre-1.4 (classic) by using the FFB Calibration presets. These presets are available under Options > Controls > Calibrate Force Feedback. The presets are set on top of this page and the new sliders to control the spring/steering effect are at the bottom. Whenever you change these values it becomes a custom preset. You can switch back to either Default or Classic by selecting them at the top of this page.

Those are taken from the patch notes for 3.0.
That white line you're getting is what's known as canned ffb from what I've read, you're yellow line going flat means you're experiencing clipping.
I hope this helps.

Fanapryde
22-08-2015, 21:35
Maybe this would work (I would have to measure it) but I think that is not my job ;). Next time you have to solder in your wheel to make it work?!? And if I play another game I would have to change it again. Hopefully this is addressed somewhere as the threat is getting very confusing with 172 pages...
That is probably why you missed my post #1705 ?
It is as simple as that...

Cabriojoschy
23-08-2015, 11:36
That is probably why you missed my post #1705 ?
It is as simple as that...

Thanks for this hint. But before 3.0 you inverted the Pedals too, if you use this option. I have to try that...

xXDoc187Xx
23-08-2015, 22:22
@Titzon Toast....thanks for posting your setup. Tried them with Fanatec GT2 and they worked super, no clipping. Just have to find the trigger to get stronger FFB to get a more better feel.

Increase Relative Adjust Bleed to 1.00
my FFB got weak when I change the values on Soft Clipping (half input) 7.00 and (full input) 10.00 that's the only way I could get the clipping from patch 3.0 default to stop, now my 911 turbo S is dialed in just right

GrimeyDog
24-08-2015, 10:18
So anyone has those post-3.0 ffb-settings for CSW v2?

Use the Default FFB profile
PDF says 24 FFB use 25 and 15 on relative adjust Bleed.
also for Dead Zone Removal Fall Off Move Full Left to 0.00 then 5 clicks Right.

FFB is Very Strong at 100% FFB on Wheel... i set on wheel FFB to 75%.... Set DOR to AUT/Off and let game control the DOR...all other on wheel settings are unchanged/Default wheel settings.

i have Not made a New PDF because these 2.0 settings work and feel great with 3.0.
No Need to Move the New Spring Sliders in the menu works and feels fine as is with CSW v2.

EDIT: Ive been Tweeking with the Tweek and it is Very Responsive to Master Scale and SOP Scale adjustments:yes: Reduce the Master Scale and SOP Scale to best fit your wheel or FFB taste.... you should Not Turn this setting up past 100:mad:

Based on how my wheel feels the Global settings are dialed in Nicely and should not be changed...JMO:barbershop_quartet_

Mascot
24-08-2015, 14:59
Little help please: my Fanatec GT2 is having shifting issues (no shifting with paddles occasionally, sometimes shifting is reversed) and the brake pedal on my CSPs sometimes soft-locks on (all since patch 3.0, but I think that's coincidence as it does it on other platforms/games).

I want to try updating the firmware and drivers as it's been a while, so:

1. can anyone link to simple yet comprehensive step-by-step instructions on how to do this, and
2. is this the latest driver (219) https://www.fanatec.com/forum/discussion/161/new-driver-219-and-firmware-released

Many thanks.

Edit: also, does anyone have a source for replacement load cells for the CSPs? It seems to be a standard 50kg half-bridge load cell (from bathroom scales) but wanted to know if anyone had tried them? The only issue might be the plug connector, but the old one could be used and re-soldered. Fanatec prices for these are a rip-off with postage.

Cheaper example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-Body-Load-Cell-Weigh-Sensor-Resistance-strain-Half-bridge-sensors-50kg-/181284909247?hash=item2a356c30bf

Sankyo
24-08-2015, 17:23
Little help please: my Fanatec GT2 is having shifting issues (no shifting with paddles occasionally, sometimes shifting is reversed) and the brake pedal on my CSPs sometimes soft-locks on (all since patch 3.0, but I think that's coincidence as it does it on other platforms/games).

I want to try updating the firmware and drivers as it's been a while, so:

1. can anyone link to simple yet comprehensive step-by-step instructions on how to do this, and
2. is this the latest driver (219) https://www.fanatec.com/forum/discussion/161/new-driver-219-and-firmware-released

Many thanks.

Edit: also, does anyone have a source for replacement load cells for the CSPs? It seems to be a standard 50kg half-bridge load cell (from bathroom scales) but wanted to know if anyone had tried them? The only issue might be the plug connector, but the old one could be used and re-soldered. Fanatec prices for these are a rip-off with postage.

Cheaper example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-Body-Load-Cell-Weigh-Sensor-Resistance-strain-Half-bridge-sensors-50kg-/181284909247?hash=item2a356c30bf

Latest driver is v222: http://www.fanatec.com/forum/discussion/164/fanatec-driver-222-beta-released-windows10
Just uninstall the current driver, then install the new one.

The latest firmware for the GT2: http://www.fanatec.com/download/PWGT2%20756.zip
The package includes a document with step-by-step instructions.

Mascot
24-08-2015, 17:45
Many thanks sir! Just what I was looking for.

Mascot
27-08-2015, 10:08
I posted this in the PC section by mistake, so a copy is below:

OK. I've had some fun and games with my Fanatec GT2 wheels and Clubsport pedals recently and some of you might benefit from my experience.

Firstly, a mechanical noise (kind of a grinding, kind of a rattling) developed in the wheel on startup when it auto-centres, and there was sometimes a similar sound during use. This prompted me to pick up a spare GT2 for a knock-down price from a user on the pCARS forums, as paranoia meant I was expecting a major failure of the hardware. Around this time I noticed that the right-hand paddle shifter felt a little sloppy. Shifting worked fine but the microswitch 'click' was sometimes absent and the paddle felt loose. A quick investigation revealed that one of the screws connecting the paddle to the wheel was missing, hence the sloppy feel to the shifting. I found the screw on the floor under my Playseat, but it wouldn't 'bite' when screwing it back. I had a suspicion what the problem was so decided to take the wheel apart and investigate (good instructions here for the GT3, but translates to the GT2 as well) (http://www.911wheel.de/files/faq_pics/Tutorial_GT3RS_V1_To_V2.pdf).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XB6yXKE8ZCdQbFAeROb0ZSC_aMIqQtgHxBURzZAswCI=w1271-h715-no

Sure enough a small brass internally-threaded boss had come loose (it's just an interference fit into a moulded plastic housing) and was rattling around inside the wheel (I didn't get a photo of this unfortunately). I retrieved and refitted this (with a dab of epoxy for good measure) and put everything back together again and re-attached the shifter paddle. Problem solved.

Then a week or so later I started getting odd shifting sequences - missed shifts, skipped gears, and even the left-hand paddle shifting up gears instead of down. The microswitch 'click' had also permanently disappeared. At exactly the same time my pedals started behaving oddly, with the brake getting randomly soft-locked on, not working at all, or going from progressive analogue to digital on/off. Because this coincided with the shifting problem I thought the two must be related. Updating the firmware didn't help, and neither did changing cables, cleaning contacts, or trying the wheel with different games on PS4, PS3, 360 and PC (I initially thought it might be a bug in the latest Project CARS patch). I swapped the wheel for my spare and the shifting issue went away, but the brake problem persisted. This at least told me that the two issues weren't related after all. I took the faulty wheel apart again and sure enough, the right-hand paddle microswitch had lost its 'click'. It still worked intermittently, but would sometimes stick (hence the left-hand shifter sometimes shifting up through the gears - try holding your right paddle 'on' then shifting with the left). Anyway, a bag of fifty replacements are on their way from China for the princely sum of £1 including delivery. No, I don't know how either.

The faulty microswitch that needs replacing (without its white rubber cover):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0u8BEODNp9XODmSR8AFPY9a8b025eZ8CGC0AGPcYwvI=w1271-h715-no

So, that's the wheel sorted, now back to the pedals. Everything now pointed to a failure of the load cell in the brake pedal. Fanatec charge €20 for these plus €20 shipping, which is ridiculous. A set of four load cells can be bought for £11 delivered on eBay with only the small white plug missing, and single load cells with the correct plug were available (but no longer it seems) from an eBay seller for £15 delivered. Then I remembered I had an old set of bathroom scales awaiting repair, and knew that four 50kg load cells in a bridge formation were commonly used in bathroom scales. I took the scales apart and sure enough, the load cells looked a close enough match for me to try one.

One corner of the bathroom scales with the load cell in place:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EsG5z2GUzF8M-qZ6-N-N3iUQ5EszdfG5AOZ_4Jn6eMI=w1271-h715-no

The main difference was that the Fanatec load cell (on the left in the photo below) had a raised node where the flat-ended brake piston pressed against it, whereas the one from the scales had a small cup indentation to accept a pointed 'spike'.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FolvjhsfqUs4hSATett_kEzJdo1TOuxSRveusPkntZE=w1271-h715-no

I started looking around my workshop for a ball bearing to sit in the cup so that the brake piston's pressure would be focused properly, but despite taking many mountain bike headsets and bottom brackets apart over the years I couldn't find any suitable bearings. What I did find was a large chain of the kind common in bath and basin plugs which uses 4mm balls, so gave one of these a go. It wouldn't be a strong as a proper ball bearing, but might prove the theory.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/huBhYoXtURXU3VogakPDiLRv5u31aw162nP8fJgU5tA=w1271-h715-no

The faux-ball bearing between the piston and the cup of the 'new' load cell:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3Mc8UDvut60pnCDH1UiQRK7SwuCWFUXo2KkkwtwOnL0=w1271-h715-no

I initially wired up the replacement load cell in the same configuration as the old one, matching the three wires left-to-right with the existing plug. I cut the wires on the old load cell and simply twisted the wires together and wrapped them in insulation tape so that I could use the existing plug to the PCB, but it didn't work. I then tried simply matching the colours of the wires, even though the configuration was different, and to my amazement it worked!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YtgFw6E_Ozr0MwApLEk4LoLEiUmvm3qMr58Zs-TeOjw=w1271-h715-no

I tested the brake for a few hours last night and it performed faultlessly, but as expected the small ball did get compressed (it's not as strong as a 'proper' ball bearing) so a bag of 200 stainless steel ones are on the way, again, £1 delivered from eBay. All that's left is to properly solder, insulate, and tidy the wires and replace the ball bearing and then the pedals should be like new. I also need to replace the shifter microswitch on the wheel when that arrives but my spare GT2 is filling that void nicely.

TLDR: DIY wheel repairs can be pretty straightforward and cheap, and you do not need to pay the extortionate prices charged by Fanatec for very cheap off-the-shelf components. And if you have an old set of bathroom scales lying around, harvest their organs.

Sum Dixon-Ear
27-08-2015, 12:06
Sweet job on the brake pedal Mascot, thanks for the fleabay link for loadcells... a great, inexpensive source for replacements.

P.S. - Your spare GT2 is actually a Turbo S (with a GT2 rim) ;)

Mascot
27-08-2015, 12:36
Sweet job on the brake pedal Mascot, thanks for the fleabay link for loadcells... a great, inexpensive source for replacements.

P.S. - Your spare GT2 is actually a Turbo S (with a GT2 rim) ;)

Thanks mate! It was your own repairing/modding that inspired me to research/tinker further - previous attempts have been a lot less complicated. I'll always consider Frankenwheel to be a GT2.. :)

I'm pretty sure that these are the correct type of load cells from a UK supplier.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252066611815?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The small white plugs can be bought cheaply - any idea how to connect the wires directly to them?

Sum Dixon-Ear
27-08-2015, 13:06
Frankenwheel.... :highly_amused:

216319

Those do look identical, I ordered mine from here this morning (less than a fiver for 4 can't be bad) - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-pcs-x-50Kg-Body-Load-Cell-Weighing-Sensor-Resistance-meter-strain-Half-bridge-/221463943308?hash=item339047988c

Not sure how the wires attach, possibly crimped.. do you know the type of plug used? I'm needing a few for the spare limbs box.... sorry, spare parts... silly me!

Mascot
27-08-2015, 13:28
Not sure how the wires attach, possibly crimped.. do you know the type of plug used? I'm needing a few for the spare limbs box.... sorry, spare parts... silly me!

The plug is a Micro 1.25 T-1 3-Pin JST Connector. (edit: or the 3-pin JST ZH connector - there seems to be a difference of opinion here)

(from this thread https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/possible-source-of-csp-load-cells.284795/)

Again, cheap from eBay pre-wired, you can get 20 sets for around £4 delivered then join/sleeve onto the load cell wires. Seems the simplest option to avoid wiring the plug.

Looks like the seller put the price up on your load cells - you did well to four for less than a fiver..!

Hotty
27-08-2015, 13:36
Hallo!
Need some Help,does anyone have good settings for Fanatec CSR after Patck 3.0. Thank you for your effort.
Gredding Hotty

Sum Dixon-Ear
27-08-2015, 13:39
The plug is a Micro 1.25 T-1 3-Pin JST Connector. (edit: or the 3-pin JST ZH connector - there seems to be a difference of opinion here)

(from this thread https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/possible-source-of-csp-load-cells.284795/)

Again, cheap from eBay pre-wired, you can get 20 sets for around £4 delivered then join/sleeve onto the load cell wires. Seems the simplest option to avoid wiring the plug.

Looks like the seller put the price up on your load cells - you did well to four for less than a fiver..!

Oops, I posted your link by mistake; here is the correct one - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-pcs-x-50Kg-Body-Load-Cell-Weighing-Sensor-Resistance-meter-strain-Half-bridge-/221463943308?hash=item339047988c

Thanks for the info Mascot, much appreciated bud.

FACT0RY PIL0T
28-08-2015, 11:39
I posted this in the PC section by mistake, so a copy is below:

OK. I've had some fun and games with my Fanatec GT2 wheels and Clubsport pedals recently and some of you might benefit from my experience.

Firstly, a mechanical noise (kind of a grinding, kind of a rattling) developed in the wheel on startup when it auto-centres, and there was sometimes a similar sound during use. This prompted me to pick up a spare GT2 for a knock-down price from a user on the pCARS forums, as paranoia meant I was expecting a major failure of the hardware. Around this time I noticed that the right-hand paddle shifter felt a little sloppy. Shifting worked fine but the microswitch 'click' was sometimes absent and the paddle felt loose. A quick investigation revealed that one of the screws connecting the paddle to the wheel was missing, hence the sloppy feel to the shifting. I found the screw on the floor under my Playseat, but it wouldn't 'bite' when screwing it back. I had a suspicion what the problem was so decided to take the wheel apart and investigate (good instructions here for the GT3, but translates to the GT2 as well) (http://www.911wheel.de/files/faq_pics/Tutorial_GT3RS_V1_To_V2.pdf).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XB6yXKE8ZCdQbFAeROb0ZSC_aMIqQtgHxBURzZAswCI=w1271-h715-no

Sure enough a small brass internally-threaded boss had come loose (it's just an interference fit into a moulded plastic housing) and was rattling around inside the wheel (I didn't get a photo of this unfortunately). I retrieved and refitted this (with a dab of epoxy for good measure) and put everything back together again and re-attached the shifter paddle. Problem solved.

Then a week or so later I started getting odd shifting sequences - missed shifts, skipped gears, and even the left-hand paddle shifting up gears instead of down. The microswitch 'click' had also permanently disappeared. At exactly the same time my pedals started behaving oddly, with the brake getting randomly soft-locked on, not working at all, or going from progressive analogue to digital on/off. Because this coincided with the shifting problem I thought the two must be related. Updating the firmware didn't help, and neither did changing cables, cleaning contacts, or trying the wheel with different games on PS4, PS3, 360 and PC (I initially thought it might be a bug in the latest Project CARS patch). I swapped the wheel for my spare and the shifting issue went away, but the brake problem persisted. This at least told me that the two issues weren't related after all. I took the faulty wheel apart again and sure enough, the right-hand paddle microswitch had lost its 'click'. It still worked intermittently, but would sometimes stick (hence the left-hand shifter sometimes shifting up through the gears - try holding your right paddle 'on' then shifting with the left). Anyway, a bag of fifty replacements are on their way from China for the princely sum of £1 including delivery. No, I don't know how either.

The faulty microswitch that needs replacing (without its white rubber cover):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0u8BEODNp9XODmSR8AFPY9a8b025eZ8CGC0AGPcYwvI=w1271-h715-no

So, that's the wheel sorted, now back to the pedals. Everything now pointed to a failure of the load cell in the brake pedal. Fanatec charge €20 for these plus €20 shipping, which is ridiculous. A set of four load cells can be bought for £11 delivered on eBay with only the small white plug missing, and single load cells with the correct plug were available (but no longer it seems) from an eBay seller for £15 delivered. Then I remembered I had an old set of bathroom scales awaiting repair, and knew that four 50kg load cells in a bridge formation were commonly used in bathroom scales. I took the scales apart and sure enough, the load cells looked a close enough match for me to try one.

One corner of the bathroom scales with the load cell in place:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EsG5z2GUzF8M-qZ6-N-N3iUQ5EszdfG5AOZ_4Jn6eMI=w1271-h715-no

The main difference was that the Fanatec load cell (on the left in the photo below) had a raised node where the flat-ended brake piston pressed against it, whereas the one from the scales had a small cup indentation to accept a pointed 'spike'.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FolvjhsfqUs4hSATett_kEzJdo1TOuxSRveusPkntZE=w1271-h715-no

I started looking around my workshop for a ball bearing to sit in the cup so that the brake piston's pressure would be focused properly, but despite taking many mountain bike headsets and bottom brackets apart over the years I couldn't find any suitable bearings. What I did find was a large chain of the kind common in bath and basin plugs which uses 4mm balls, so gave one of these a go. It wouldn't be a strong as a proper ball bearing, but might prove the theory.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/huBhYoXtURXU3VogakPDiLRv5u31aw162nP8fJgU5tA=w1271-h715-no

The faux-ball bearing between the piston and the cup of the 'new' load cell:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3Mc8UDvut60pnCDH1UiQRK7SwuCWFUXo2KkkwtwOnL0=w1271-h715-no

I initially wired up the replacement load cell in the same configuration as the old one, matching the three wires left-to-right with the existing plug. I cut the wires on the old load cell and simply twisted the wires together and wrapped them in insulation tape so that I could use the existing plug to the PCB, but it didn't work. I then tried simply matching the colours of the wires, even though the configuration was different, and to my amazement it worked!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YtgFw6E_Ozr0MwApLEk4LoLEiUmvm3qMr58Zs-TeOjw=w1271-h715-no

I tested the brake for a few hours last night and it performed faultlessly, but as expected the small ball did get compressed (it's not as strong as a 'proper' ball bearing) so a bag of 200 stainless steel ones are on the way, again, £1 delivered from eBay. All that's left is to properly solder, insulate, and tidy the wires and replace the ball bearing and then the pedals should be like new. I also need to replace the shifter microswitch on the wheel when that arrives but my spare GT2 is filling that void nicely.

TLDR: DIY wheel repairs can be pretty straightforward and cheap, and you do not need to pay the extortionate prices charged by Fanatec for very cheap off-the-shelf components. And if you have an old set of bathroom scales lying around, harvest their organs.

Having the shift paddles screwed onto the wheel puts extra stress on the switches to, and they can wear out prematurely. If you just have to have the paddles there then some have made stops to eliminate extra travel to where the paddle only moves just enough to make the switch activate but not bottom out, and keep from damaging the switches over time.

Sum Dixon-Ear
28-08-2015, 12:22
Here Mascot... do you actually own two Frankenwheels... that is a GT3 rim on your GT2 chassis is it not?

Mascot
28-08-2015, 12:23
Having the shift paddles screwed onto the wheel puts extra stress on the switches to, and they can wear out prematurely. If you just have to have the paddles there then some have made stops to eliminate extra travel to where the paddle only moves just enough to make the switch activate but not bottom out, and keep from damaging the switches over time.

Good tip and worth investigating. Do you have any links to one of the mods you've heard about?

Mascot
28-08-2015, 12:24
Here Mascot... do you actually own two Frankenwheels? That is a GT3 rim on your GT2 chassis is it not?

That's a good spot, but it is a GT2 rim: I simply changed the black 12 o'clock band to a yellow one.

Here's an old photo (JESUS - THAT TELLY!) with the black band.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk45/massscot/IMG_20140307_121700_zps78ab0739.jpg

Mascot
28-08-2015, 12:46
I've just taken a look at the paddle travel and a mod to ease pressure on the microswitches is dead simple. In the photos below you can see the brass threaded inserts that the countersunk machine screws (that connect the paddles) thread into.

Right shifter:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ewgmu4qw_xI59oshYz3Q79YHw6l5MpX6Q6M6PA5oHQA=w1200-h675-no

Left shifter:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HYXqOT4eqsgdMYptThYJPeLKhwElrtxrt4SRUzRGWFI=w1200-h675-no

(the white disc is what presses the microswitch)

If one longer machine screw was used on each side it would come through the brass insert and bottom out on the injection moulding as the paddle is activated, and could be trimmed in length to give just the right amount of travel to activate the microswitch without applying too much pressure.

Actually there are a few other obvious (and probably simpler) ways the same thing could be achieved. I'll give it some thought.

FACT0RY PIL0T
28-08-2015, 14:00
Good tip and worth investigating. Do you have any links to one of the mods you've heard about?

No sorry i have no links just heard about it, kinda been thinking of modding my 2 wheels, and since i have extra main boards, and sensors been thinking of doing some mod work. Another thing with gt2 is they run hot so having the fan set to on all the time is going to help things last longer. The csr wheel covers had bigger vents which i have one on one of my wheels but from what most guys do is they cut the cover open more mount a larger fan on it, and I think its a 4v fan hook up on the main board to help with cooling.

Sik180sx
28-08-2015, 17:40
Here Mascot... do you actually own two Frankenwheels... that is a GT3 rim on your GT2 chassis is it not?

Lol,this is frankenwheel:old veilside wheel off my 180sx on a csr(not e)base216513

Sum Dixon-Ear
28-08-2015, 18:09
Lol,this is frankenwheel:old veilside wheel off my 180sx on a csr(not e)base
The spirit of Victor Frankenstein lives on... you mad genius! :D

Mascot
28-08-2015, 20:39
No sorry i have no links just heard about it, kinda been thinking of modding my 2 wheels, and since i have extra main boards, and sensors been thinking of doing some mod work. Another thing with gt2 is they run hot so having the fan set to on all the time is going to help things last longer. The csr wheel covers had bigger vents which i have one on one of my wheels but from what most guys do is they cut the cover open more mount a larger fan on it, and I think its a 4v fan hook up on the main board to help with cooling.

Cheers - I'll take a look.

The ball bearings arrived today so I'll finish the pedal mod properly tomorrow. Someone else gifted me a second broken set of bathroom scales too, so I'll be harvesting more organs in the morning.

0i8u2
29-08-2015, 01:25
Cheers - I'll take a look.

The ball bearings arrived today so I'll finish the pedal mod properly tomorrow. Someone else gifted me a second broken set of bathroom scales too, so I'll be harvesting more organs in the morning.

Does the brake feel the same as it was with this load cell ?
A mate has a set of v1 pedal he is going to give me but the brake isn't working.
Also do the scale you pulled apart have an amplifier board for the load cell ?
Might be a cheap way to make a load cell mod for g25/27 brake.

Cheers

Mascot
29-08-2015, 08:03
Does the brake feel the same as it was with this load cell ?
A mate has a set of v1 pedal he is going to give me but the brake isn't working.
Also do the scale you pulled apart have an amplifier board for the load cell ?
Might be a cheap way to make a load cell mod for g25/27 brake.

Cheers

The brake feels identical and this was backed up with visual telemetry. The original component Fanatec use is an off-the-shelf 50kg load cell just like the one ripped from the bathroom scales. The only difference was the indentation in the contact plate in the particular one I used, hence the need for a ball bearing in the mod. See above - you can buy the exact type Fanatec uses very cheaply from eBay. It's extremely likely that the v1 set your mate gave you just needs the load cell replacing.

I took a photo of the board from the scales for you. You might be able to spot an amp on there (I assume there is one?), but the scales took readings for body fat, water percentage etc and had different profiles, a wireless display etc so a lot of the electronics might be to do with that.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/akliw64SzJ6NLCNX4qGXo8OHoe5NcaQoB5APDT0rpac=w1200-h675-no

0i8u2
29-08-2015, 23:14
The brake feels identical and this was backed up with visual telemetry. The original component Fanatec use is an off-the-shelf 50kg load cell just like the one ripped from the bathroom scales. The only difference was the indentation in the contact plate in the particular one I used, hence the need for a ball bearing in the mod. See above - you can buy the exact type Fanatec uses very cheaply from eBay. It's extremely likely that the v1 set your mate gave you just needs the load cell replacing.

I took a photo of the board from the scales for you. You might be able to spot an amp on there (I assume there is one?), but the scales took readings for body fat, water percentage etc and had different profiles, a wireless display etc so a lot of the electronics might be to do with that.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/akliw64SzJ6NLCNX4qGXo8OHoe5NcaQoB5APDT0rpac=w1200-h675-no

Thanks for the info mate, I'll look into a cheap set of scales that does weight only.
Good to know the load cells work the same. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers

flatspunout
30-08-2015, 06:44
Weird Deadzone Removal Falloff slider behavior post 3.0. Same result when changing values with wheel and DS4. Is this normal?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2wviwGTrFg

Fre.Mo
30-08-2015, 07:26
Maybe because the 0.001 digit is not displayed...

Mascot
30-08-2015, 07:53
Thanks for the info mate, I'll look into a cheap set of scales that does weight only.
Good to know the load cells work the same. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers

if I didn't already have the broken scales I'd have bought a set of four load cells from eBay (£11 from UK or £5 from USA, both inc delivery, some links are in the posts above). That way it's risk-free, as a set of cheap scales might not have the same type of load cells (and would probably cost over a tenner anyway).

Good luck anyway - let us know how you get on and whether you get the CSPs working again. They are fantastic pedals.

gruzzlebeard
30-08-2015, 08:47
Weird Deadzone Removal Falloff slider behavior post 3.0. Same result when changing values with wheel and DS4. Is this normal?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2wviwGTrFg

This is is a known bug already pre Patch 3.0. Don't shift the needle all to the left. Move from 0.01 just 1 click to the left to 0.00. Don't move further - Otherwise you'll get strange FFB results in-game.

SMS fixed FFB topics in Patch 3.0. I just cannot understand that they are not fully cleaning up their mess. Is nobody testing the UI interface after working on the code?

EDIT: I need to correct this. Post Patch 3.0 the DRF shifter works now throughout the whole range in smaler increments (0,00......0,01.....0,02...). . You just cannot see the smaller values:rolleyes:

rocafella1978
30-08-2015, 13:06
your help please to all Fanatec users: does anyone know if a Formula Steering Wheel EU fits and works without issues on a CSW V2? (I can't find out nor understand why wheels would be US or EU...)any help would be great here. thx @alll

gruzzlebeard
30-08-2015, 14:49
@Rocefella - sorry can't help

All
New Fanatec driver (beta) available --> http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/wheel-bases/clubsport-wheel-base-v2-eu.html#downloads
Link to Fanatec community (but very confusing) --> https://www.fanatec.com/forum/discussion/164/fanatec-driver-222-beta-released-windows10/p8 I have it on my wheel and it works so far.

I just cannot get rid of a twittering and chirping coming from the fans - need to contact Fanatec
Somebody with the same experience?