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Sum Dixon-Ear
30-08-2015, 15:09
your help please to all Fanatec users: does anyone know if a Formula Steering Wheel EU fits and works without issues on a CSW V2? (I can't find out nor understand why wheels would be US or EU...)any help would be great here. thx @alll
The Fanatec steering wheels are all identical, the letters after the products names are just webshop designations; EU - European, US - American, AU - Australian and JP - Japanese.

Redslayer
01-09-2015, 02:28
Good god, I'm trying to get my friend to get his Porsche GT2 wheel firmware updated, and this is preposterous lol. He's using windows 8.1 and what a mess. It's taken like 2+ hours haha.

Fanapryde
01-09-2015, 05:30
Good god, I'm trying to get my friend to get his Porsche GT2 wheel firmware updated, and this is preposterous lol. He's using windows 8.1 and what a mess. It's taken like 2+ hours haha.
OK, I wish that would be my problem.

I used an old laptop that runs on Win XP to update Thrustmaster firmware.
Yesterday I tried to install the Fanatec drivers for my new gear (see signature) and it turns out that this is impossible on XP, needs at least Vista...

Great.... :grumpy:

I use Mac since years...

Sankyo
01-09-2015, 08:27
OK, I wish that would be my problem.

I used an old laptop that runs on Win XP to update Thrustmaster firmware.
Yesterday I tried to install the Fanatec drivers for my new gear (see signature) and it turns out that this is impossible on XP, needs at least Vista...

Great.... :grumpy:

I use Mac since years...
Unfortunately, supporting XP doesn't make sense for Fanatec, as the OS is obsolete and not supported by Microsoft anymore. Surely friends or relatives would have a laptop or tablet running a recent Windows version that you could use?

Fanapryde
01-09-2015, 08:39
Unfortunately, supporting XP doesn't make sense for Fanatec, as the OS is obsolete and not supported by Microsoft anymore. Surely friends or relatives would have a laptop or tablet running a recent Windows version that you could use?
I will probably have to...
Still a nasty surprise since XP is still supported by TM.
Oh well, maybe this is the final push to buy a decent gaming PC for ProjectCars ... :untroubled:

Mascot
01-09-2015, 09:50
A new organ donor. Muwahahahahahahaaa..!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jmfyaNPYOrtDZgMm9SwogBSxPoBqrqJbdXphXSCRwbc=w1250-h704-no

GrimeyDog
01-09-2015, 10:19
Weird Deadzone Removal Falloff slider behavior post 3.0. Same result when changing values with wheel and DS4. Is this normal?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2wviwGTrFg
There are 10x 0.00 settings!!! Go full Left then go right 5 clicks that should put you in the Middle... Thats how i Set Mine and it works fine with the V2 wheel.

GrimeyDog
01-09-2015, 10:23
This is is a known bug already pre Patch 3.0. Don't shift the needle all to the left. Move from 0.01 just 1 click to the left to 0.00. Don't move further - Otherwise you'll get strange FFB results in-game.

SMS fixed FFB topics in Patch 3.0. I just cannot understand that they are not fully cleaning up their mess. Is nobody testing the UI interface after working on the code?

There used to be 2x *0.00* Settings Now there are 10!!! I moved mine full Left then 5 clicks Right works fine with my FFB Tweek.

Sum Dixon-Ear
01-09-2015, 12:27
A new organ donor. Muwahahahahahahaaa..!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jmfyaNPYOrtDZgMm9SwogBSxPoBqrqJbdXphXSCRwbc=w1250-h704-no

I'm starting to think you're actually wanting a real-time BMI reading via the telemetry mate... :p

Mascot
01-09-2015, 12:43
I'm starting to think you're actually wanting a real-time BMI reading via the telemetry mate... :p

The weight of the car now shows up in the HUD. I'm not even joking!

Yes I am.

flatspunout
01-09-2015, 18:02
@gruzzlebeard, @GrimeyDog thanks for the tips, the issue did not manifest itself until after I installed 3.0 and selected the sequential shifter profile. At that point the game reset ALL of my global control settings (not just FFB) along with the issue at hand showing up. As long as I leave the Deadzone Removal Falloff slider at default I can get driveable FFB but it is still notchy and the left side wheel rumble motor is rumbling it's ass off constantly, I had to turn sho off on the wheel as it is literally pulsating as I'm going down a straightaway. So frustrating...

If anyone has any post-3.0 CSR settings I would be forever indebted, I've tried Microcosmix settings for PC (requires DRF setting of .03), another tweak I found on RD, and sik180sx's 911 settings that I adjusted to work better on the CSR....none of them felt "right" before and now they are either way too light or way too heavy with violent oscillations. I've tried resetting all of the FFB (after the game did it for me) along with deleting my profile and starting from scratch (for the...3rd? 4th? time now) and I'm out of ideas, out of patience, and out of time. I just want to race you know?

Linx
01-09-2015, 18:19
@flatspunout. How long do you drive it while it does this? When I was using my csr after a new patch or inputting new FFB settings my wheel would jerk and act twitchy. But after a few races over a day or two it always seemed like it would smooth itself out and everything would be how it's supposed to be

flatspunout
01-09-2015, 19:39
@flatspunout. How long do you drive it while it does this? When I was using my csr after a new patch or inputting new FFB settings my wheel would jerk and act twitchy. But after a few races over a day or two it always seemed like it would smooth itself out and everything would be how it's supposed to be

Lol...the help is appreciated and I have no doubts that what you say is true, but that's just not an acceptable workaround.

gruzzlebeard
02-09-2015, 21:03
This is is a known bug already pre Patch 3.0. Don't shift the needle all to the left. Move from 0.01 just 1 click to the left to 0.00. Don't move further - Otherwise you'll get strange FFB results in-game.

SMS fixed FFB topics in Patch 3.0. I just cannot understand that they are not fully cleaning up their mess. Is nobody testing the UI interface after working on the code?

I was wrong with this statement: there is no UI bug anymore after patch 3.0. The DRF shifter worksnow throughout the whole range in smaler increments (0,00......0,01.....0,02...). Just noticed that when I added a bit DRR/DRF during the linearity check. The feel is much better.

In game it feels much better if you use DRR 0.02/DRF 0.01. The enrichment of the FFB is amazing.

217078

gruzzlebeard
02-09-2015, 21:27
@gruzzlebeard, @GrimeyDog thanks for the tips, the issue did not manifest itself until after I installed 3.0 and selected the sequential shifter profile. At that point the game reset ALL of my global control settings (not just FFB) along with the issue at hand showing up. As long as I leave the Deadzone Removal Falloff slider at default I can get driveable FFB but it is still notchy and the left side wheel rumble motor is rumbling it's ass off constantly, I had to turn sho off on the wheel as it is literally pulsating as I'm going down a straightaway. So frustrating...

If anyone has any post-3.0 CSR settings I would be forever indebted, I've tried Microcosmix settings for PC (requires DRF setting of .03), another tweak I found on RD, and sik180sx's 911 settings that I adjusted to work better on the CSR....none of them felt "right" before and now they are either way too light or way too heavy with violent oscillations. I've tried resetting all of the FFB (after the game did it for me) along with deleting my profile and starting from scratch (for the...3rd? 4th? time now) and I'm out of ideas, out of patience, and out of time. I just want to race you know?

I don't own a CSR but maybe this thread (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&p=1106058&viewfull=1#post1106058) helps.

If you start from scratch anyway then you should start with the real basic things. There is a quite interesting thread (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35147-Linear-FFB-Test-Excel-sheet-Universal)regarding the linearity of our wheels. The results are in-game quite interesting and convincing.

GrimeyDog
02-09-2015, 22:03
I was wrong with this statement: there is no UI bug anymore after patch 3.0. The DRF shifter worksnow throughout the whole range in smaler increments (0,00......0,01.....0,02...). Just noticed that when I added a bit DRR/DRF during the linearity check. The feel is much better.

In game it feels much better if you use DRR 0.02/DRF 0.01. The enrichment of the FFB is amazing.

217078

Gruzzle Beard... Explain im not sure i get what this means. thnx

Redslayer
03-09-2015, 00:38
OK, I wish that would be my problem.

I used an old laptop that runs on Win XP to update Thrustmaster firmware.
Yesterday I tried to install the Fanatec drivers for my new gear (see signature) and it turns out that this is impossible on XP, needs at least Vista...

Great.... :grumpy:

I use Mac since years...

Lol that sucks


I will probably have to...
Still a nasty surprise since XP is still supported by TM.
Oh well, maybe this is the final push to buy a decent gaming PC for ProjectCars ... :untroubled:

Yeah maybe so! I just went through with buying a PC the other day. Waiting on delivery now. AMD Radeon R9 390 - 8GB, 16 gb of ram, i7-4790K Processor (4x 4.0GHz/8MB L3 Cache) with liquid cooling, 800w power supply, windows 10 and a free mechanical keyboard and stuff for star citizen and random other stuff like LED lighting and such for 1220 USD.

It'll do more than I want it for lol.

gruzzlebeard
03-09-2015, 01:37
Gruzzle Beard... Explain im not sure i get what this means. thnx

First at all its all about linearity of our wheels and how to find and create the right profile for a good FFB. In the link above Lars Rosenquist defined it quite nicely:


It shows the physical response of the wheel in response to a value that is output by the software. So the game tells the wheel 'move 10%', then the wheel responds with a certain motion (e.g. 8%). If response would be lineair, the wheel would always respond the way the game tells it to, but this is rarely the case, unless you have a really expensive wheel. This graph makes it possible to configure the FFB to compensate for this behavior.

Does this help you?

Edit: I'll run it with my G27 tonight too. Oh how I wish games/sims would incorporate this and create a profile for your wheel automatically. :)
Edit2: Can you also add your LT profiler settings, since these (especially damping) affect the output if I recall correctly.

His example was motion of the wheel. Buts it's not only that - its also FFB .

My thread above was originaly linked to deadzone values only and I found out that it can help me for an improved FFB. That was the starting point.

My settings so far was DRR+DRF 0.00 - I proved that with wheelchecker.exe and my deadzone was zero:cheerful:

Secondly I wondered what the heck this Scoop is (and nobody was able to explain it in simple words :hopelessness:). :confused: So I did what many wheel user did I looked in all the other profiles and thought - if they are using the default values 0.70/0.15 in-game - so I will use them too :barbershop_quartet_:

After I realized that scoop is a value which is used to boost higher forces for weaker wheels and reduce lower forces more it was clear to me that this is exactly what I do NOT WANT ;) ( ok you can use this feature also for the opposite direction but here comes the linearity in the game because this feature is changing linearity. So at a certain point you get somewhere a knee where not the original game parameters but other things are impacting your wheel and forces).

As a CSW V2 user i know the wheel is strong, no deadzoe etc. so I assumed also that the wheel interacts with the game 1:1 in terms of high and low forces.

So why then using Scoop at all??? :dejection::dejection:

After I changed scoop to Zero I didn't notice too many changes. And this made me even more suspicous. :sorrow:
:stupid:There must be something else what impacts my forces.

I decided finally to analyze my wheel with wheelchecker.exe, used the automatically created test logs and copied my data into the FFB Calculator 2.0.1 sheet. So you get your current linearity shown as a red line. You can compare your line against a yellow line which represents the ideal values from the game engine without any filtering of deadzone, scoop, and steer. gain.

Then you can fiddle with DRR/DRF etc in the white cells until you get your red line in sync with the ideal yellow one. The result is then the new FFB setting for your profile. The CSW V2 is already pritty linear delete the other filters and give a snall input to deadzone . :encouragement: .:encouragement:.:encouragement:.

It took me only some minutes to understand and perform the test and copy the data in your calculator. I just followed this threat. Linear FFB Google sheet. Universal (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35147-Linear-FFB-Test-Excel-sheet-Universal) In Post 1 is the sheet with all the things you need to know - no prob, very simple.

I reset my wheel, set all FFB related values to 0 beside Adjust Gain (1.10/0.10/0.95 I will test and challenge the values soon ) and then I adjusted only deadzone according to the results of the excel file.

While testing I reduced deadzone from 0.03 to 0.02 and I like it much more :triumphant: :triumphant: :triumphant:


BTW make sure that you set in-wheel setting DRI to OFF. With DRI 3 the FFB is not linear anymore you need to adjust again.
Jack Spade tested his wheel at the same time like me but he has got total different results hier is the reason (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&p=1105406&viewfull=1#post1105406)

-Brick_Top-
03-09-2015, 19:38
I was wrong with this statement: there is no UI bug anymore after patch 3.0. The DRF shifter worksnow throughout the whole range in smaler increments (0,00......0,01.....0,02...). Just noticed that when I added a bit DRR/DRF during the linearity check. The feel is much better.

In game it feels much better if you use DRR 0.02/DRF 0.01. The enrichment of the FFB is amazing.

217078

Gruzzlebead

Nice settings man.

Sat here bored so thought I'd just have a play around. I have to say you like a heavy wheel!

Going back to my g dog settings for now but I do like yours. Well done and thanks for sharing. If you tweek again at some point I will try them again for sure

Islandlad77
03-09-2015, 20:11
Guys can I put my two penny's worth in here regarding ffb settings.
Ive been following this thread from day one and some of the input and time spent by certain members has been amazing and I can't thank you enough. But, and its a big ugly Butt.
Ive been using the suggested ffb settings since patch 3.0 up until today and I've always found the feedback on my gt3rs abit dull and lacking road/car feel. And yes I've tried classic, 66%, bumps plus etc.

Today I reset my wheel and recalibrated ffb to default settings.
Good points are -
Better road feel
Much better handling (especially when back end steps out I can correct it much quicker)
If the wheel shakes on the screen so does mine.
ABS rumble feels strong (non existent before)
Kerb feel good. If a little to strong
Acceleration vibration way stronger as well.

Now for the bad points on default.

FFB telemetry although good in some area's, does peak off the scale a little too much.
Wheel still has the anoyying spring issue (especially on cold tires).
If the car spins off and hits side wall I loose all wheel function (steering, brake, throttle ) and have to restart or return to pit in qualifying.

So I feel from my point of view as a gt3rs user, some middle ground needs to be found between what SMS have provided and what has been suggested on this thread/forum. Even if its purely based on the gt3 wheel or not. It may be something very small in the ffb calibration or something on a broader scale but I'm abit frustrated that I can't have a fantastic experience through my wheel and on the game itself.

Steve

gotdirt410sprintcar
03-09-2015, 20:39
DRUNK AGAIN

gruzzlebeard
03-09-2015, 20:53
Gruzzlebead

Nice settings man.

Sat here bored so thought I'd just have a play around. I have to say you like a heavy wheel!

Going back to my g dog settings for now but I do like yours. Well done and thanks for sharing. If you tweek again at some point I will try them again for sure

Thanks Brick Top.

Well heavy is of course difficult to determine. Everybody has another taste and feel. Actually I don't feel my wheel so strong.

Did you reset/restart the wheel and/or game after you changed the elementary FFB setting?
I do sometimes even a reset of the wheel because the profile data are not correctly reloaded after elementary changes in global FFB settings(my personal opinion and experience). I've had this sympton already a couple of times that my wheel was very heavy and the telemetry data has had strange curves in it or "needles".

I'm using Jack Spades Fy/SopLateral presets. The FY value is quite low and FY is the strongest force and could make wheel heavy if the value is too high. So for me the wheel is ok.

I find Grimeys setting more heavy due to the Car FFB what he is using. But the settings are nice indeed. I'm just not sure if in this rich forces is also a certain slight grinding effect in it. Would be worth for a further discussion with Grimey.

-Brick_Top-
03-09-2015, 21:16
Thanks Brick Top.

Well heavy is of course difficult to determine. Everybody has another taste and feel. Actually I don't feel my wheel so strong.

Did you reset/restart the wheel and/or game after you changed the elementary FFB setting?
I do sometimes even a reset of the wheel because the profile data are not correctly reloaded after elementary changes in global FFB settings(my personal opinion and experience). I've had this sympton already a couple of times that my wheel was very heavy and the telemetry data has had strange curves in it or "needles".

I'm using Jack Spades Fy/SopLateral presets. The FY value is quite low and FY is the strongest force and could make wheel heavy if the value is too high. So for me the wheel is ok.

I find Grimeys setting more heavy due to the Car FFB what he is using. But the settings are nice indeed. I'm just not sure if in this rich forces is also a certain slight grinding effect in it. Would be worth for a further discussion with Grimey.

Yes did full reset and for me yours were heavier I was running my f1 rim which is light so might explain it??? Not sure. I was actually .021 seconds faster on my record with your settings. For me and this is obviously 100% personal preference. I feel I was quicker because I had slightly less feel of tyres breaking loose. Therefore I backed off a touch later than I previously did. Having said that yours really are very good.
It's so nice to see different approaches both giving great feel.
I also didn't use Jack spades car Ffb just the settings posted on your thread so again no doubt that would make a difference too. Will have more time for testing tomorrow but once again thanks for sharing your work.

Sankyo
04-09-2015, 07:03
...
Now for the bad points on default.

FFB telemetry although good in some area's, does peak off the scale a little too much.
This is easily solved by turning down Tyre Force (if it happens for all cars) or the Spindle Master Scale (if it clips differently for each car).


Wheel still has the anoyying spring issue (especially on cold tires).
Need a better description of this, repro steps and if possible a video, since I haven't seen reports about 'the' centering spring issue for some time, and the spring issue term is regularly used when actually something else is going on that has nothing to do with a spring force.


If the car spins off and hits side wall I loose all wheel function (steering, brake, throttle ) and have to restart or return to pit in qualifying.
Does this happen with all cars? Does the telemetry HUD show no controller input registered? Can you describe repro steps?

Islandlad77
04-09-2015, 09:22
Does this happen with all cars? Does the telemetry HUD show no controller input registered? Can you describe repro steps?[/QUOTE]

Yep, every time car spins out it won't move at all. Wheel is registering on telem screen.
Never had this problem before

Sankyo
04-09-2015, 09:24
Yep, every time car spins out it won't move at all. Wheel is registering on telem screen.
Never had this problem before
So controller input shows to be working? Then I guess your engine stalled and you need to restart it (or enable automatic engine restart in the game's options).

Islandlad77
04-09-2015, 11:33
Auto engine start is enabled and problem still happens

Islandlad77
04-09-2015, 12:56
So controller input shows to be working? Then I guess your engine stalled and you need to restart it (or enable automatic engine restart in the game's options).

OK things have got worse. Car won't even move or change from neutral at the start of a race.
What the hell is going on.

Islandlad77
04-09-2015, 13:19
OK, ive decided to do a reinstall of the game. I just hope that's all I need to do.

Sum Dixon-Ear
04-09-2015, 13:55
New two-stage shock fitted to the trusty old V2s... must race... must race...
217261

Mascot
04-09-2015, 19:46
New two-stage shock fitted to the trusty old V2s... must race... must race...
217261

Ooh... Nice. OEM or Frankenfreaken?

Sum Dixon-Ear
04-09-2015, 20:15
Sorry to let the side down old boy, no fiendishly created Chimera this time.. just a stock 120mm Boom Racing effort. Beats the poop out of the standard one though.

Fanatest
04-09-2015, 20:28
Sorry to let the side down old boy, no fiendishly created Chimera this time.. just a stock 120mm Boom Racing effort. Beats the poop out of the standard one though.

Linkypoo :)
It's always nice to have a backup shock for my V2s lying around ;)

Sum Dixon-Ear
04-09-2015, 20:52
I got the shocks from - http://www.asiatees.com - snaffled the last ones though... hehe. PM me your address and I'll send you the spare with the full spring set if you fancy.

Edit : Just double checked - they still have 120mm piggyback shocks in gold or red in stock - http://www.asiatees.com/display?Miscellaneous-All-Parts-Hop-Ups&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=47190

Mascot
05-09-2015, 09:51
Sorry to let the side down old boy, no fiendishly created Chimera this time.. just a stock 120mm Boom Racing effort. Beats the poop out of the standard one though.

Whoah. Nice mod. What exactly does it do, how does it feel, what does it replace?

Jealous. A little bit of wee came out.

Sankyo
05-09-2015, 10:05
Whoah. Nice mod. What exactly does it do, how does it feel, what does it replace?

Jealous. A little bit of wee came out.
Looks like it simply replaces the whole standard damper unit, being all standardized dimensions and interfaces.

At €20 and free worldwide shipping, it seems nothing to be jealous about but a very affordable modification. Looks cool, too :) Too bad I'm on CSP v3s now :p

Fanatest
05-09-2015, 11:03
I got the shocks from - http://www.asiatees.com - snaffled the last ones though... hehe. PM me your address and I'll send you the spare with the full spring set if you fancy.

Edit : Just double checked - they still have 120mm piggyback shocks in gold or red in stock - http://www.asiatees.com/display?Miscellaneous-All-Parts-Hop-Ups&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=47190

Nice! And thank you very much for the offer you kind hearted son of gun you :D

Mascot
05-09-2015, 12:26
Looks like it simply replaces the whole standard damper unit, being all standardized dimensions and interfaces.

At €20 and free worldwide shipping, it seems nothing to be jealous about but a very affordable modification. Looks cool, too :) Too bad I'm on CSP v3s now :p

Is this mod only possible on the V2s then? My own set are V1s.

Sum Dixon-Ear
05-09-2015, 12:43
The shock is just a straight swap for the standard V2 damper, V1s can be modded to accept a damper but you would need to fabricate it yourself or purchase a kit (which is somewhat expensive) - http://www.struvedesigns.com/index.php/3d-store (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBwrgZN45XI)
217336

Sankyo
05-09-2015, 12:45
Is this mod only possible on the V2s then? My own set are V1s.

The v1s don't have any damper on them, so for them it will not be any easy case of switching the old damper for this one. You'll need to do some DIY fiddling to mount it.

Plenty of people who went that way...

217337

Sum Dixon-Ear
05-09-2015, 12:50
Whoah. Nice mod. What exactly does it do, how does it feel, what does it replace?

Jealous. A little bit of wee came out.

The new shock certainly improves the feel of softer brake modulation (with the stiffest spring installed) and the brake return/rebound is faster (the standard one is rather slow to decompress), there is also more resistance on initial brake force.. but obviously that's not noticeable once your foot engages full pressure on the load cell. For the meagre expense I'm more than happy with it.

Mascot
05-09-2015, 23:31
Sounds good. Might take a closer look at modding my v1s.

gruzzlebeard
06-09-2015, 07:57
Yes did full reset and for me yours were heavier I was running my f1 rim which is light so might explain it??? Not sure. I was actually .021 seconds faster on my record with your settings. For me and this is obviously 100% personal preference. I feel I was quicker because I had slightly less feel of tyres breaking loose. Therefore I backed off a touch later than I previously did. Having said that yours really are very good.
It's so nice to see different approaches both giving great feel.
I also didn't use Jack spades car Ffb just the settings posted on your thread so again no doubt that would make a difference too. Will have more time for testing tomorrow but once again thanks for sharing your work.

I'm running a the 918 RSR . I guess it's much bigger then the F1 rim. This would makes for sure a difference regarding the torque. But I also noticed that the heaviness of the CSW V2 changed again and again.

As I said on Thursday I felt the wheel not that heavy at all. So I wanted to test on Friday & Saturday again.

On Friday I had several losses of feedback and I've had switched the wheel on and off a couple of times. But even worse after some Global FFB changes furth and back I had the impression that I've just got a reduced FFB on the whell and in the telemetry data the oscillation looked also a bit strange. Hard peaks in form of long needles instead of nice curves, an oscillatting wheel, hard impact on the rim when touching kerbs etc.. I left and restarted the game, restarted the PS4, recalibrated the wheel but actually no improvement.

Finally I stopped gaming after I did I recalibration. I'm totally annoyed.

On Saturday when I tried again everything was ok. Telemetry ok, FFB ok wheel feel ok - it was just definitly heavier than on Thursday where we started our discussion. So I turned down a little bit the TF and the feel was even better.

However after 5 months I'm getting sick and tired about the quality of the game - in my opionion Patch 3 didn't improve too much in terms of reliability of FFB in conjunction of game/profile saves .:mad:

Islandlad77
06-09-2015, 09:03
I'm running a the 918 RSR . I guess it's much bigger then the F1 rim. This would makes for sure a difference regarding the torque. But I also noticed that the heaviness of the CSW V2 changed again and again.

As I said on Thursday I felt the wheel not that heavy at all. So I wanted to test on Friday & Saturday again.

On Friday I had several losses of feedback and I've had switched the wheel on and off a couple of times. But even worse after some Global FFB changes furth and back I had the impression that I've just got a reduced FFB on the whell and in the telemetry data the oscillation looked also a bit strange. Hard peaks in form of long needles instead of nice curves, an oscillatting wheel, hard impact on the rim when touching kerbs etc.. I left and restarted the game, restarted the PS4, recalibrated the wheel but actually no improvement.

Finally I stopped gaming after I did I recalibration. I'm totally annoyed.

On Saturday when I tried again everything was ok. Telemetry ok, FFB ok wheel feel ok - it was just definitly heavier than on Thursday where we started our discussion. So I turned down a little bit the TF and the feel was even better.

However after 5 months I'm getting sick and tired about the quality of the game - in my opionion Patch 3 didn't improve too much in terms of reliability of FFB in conjunction of game/profile saves .:mad:

I share you opinion mate. I'm fed up with constant wheel tuning, restarting races etc. I'm never going to improve as a sim racer if the sim itself is so unpredictable. The ffb telemetry isnt much help either. I think there needs to be real focus on wheel support in the next patch.

Fanapryde
06-09-2015, 09:20
I share you opinion mate. I'm fed up with constant wheel tuning, restarting races etc. I'm never going to improve as a sim racer if the sim itself is so unpredictable. The ffb telemetry isnt much help either. I think there needs to be real focus on wheel support in the next patch.
Are you on PS4 too (Your ID says PC...)
I doubt there is something wrong with wheel support. Since patch 3 I had no more issues with FFB (PS4/T500RS - soon to be replaced by CS V2)

Islandlad77
06-09-2015, 09:34
Are you on PS4 too (Your ID says PC...)
I doubt there is something wrong with wheel support. Since patch 3 I had no more issues with FFB (PS4/T500RS - soon to be replaced by CS V2)
So it does Lol. Yeah I'm using the gt3rs on ps4. Do you run default ffb settings on calibration menu ?

Fanapryde
06-09-2015, 09:50
So it does Lol. Yeah I'm using the gt3rs on ps4. Do you run default ffb settings on calibration menu ?
Changed it allready I see :)

No, I made some changes (even before Patch 2) and I did not touch them since. Can't tell you exactly which settings I changed (on holliday and nowhere near my rig) :cool:

gruzzlebeard
06-09-2015, 09:51
Are you on PS4 too (Your ID says PC...)
I doubt there is something wrong with wheel support. Since patch 3 I had no more issues with FFB (PS4/T500RS - soon to be replaced by CS V2)

I'm not able to assess where the root cause is.

But if even the telemetry data are looking strange then I assume it's an issue on saving the correct FFB data values in my profile data.

If you just look at the clusterfuck in the UI sliders you can see that there's something broken. If this mess has an impact at all or if it is one of the possible root causes I don't know. But it proofs that somebody didn't make his homework in going through the test steps like a standard user is doing it.

Islandlad77
06-09-2015, 09:57
Ive been using grimeys ffb calibration settings since patch 3.0 on my gt3 wheel but if i revert back to default settings my wheel has alot more detailed feel to it. However, when using this my wheel still rocks left to right so should I just use default setiings but change one of the sliders ?
Any suggestions will be tested this evening.

Islandlad77
06-09-2015, 09:59
sorry I mean titzon toast's settings, not grimeys.

Titzon Toast
06-09-2015, 11:44
sorry I mean titzon toast's settings, not grimeys.

I'm rocking TF @ 68 and FFB @ 35 since I last posted my settings man.
I've also stopped using Jack Spade's ffb settings per car and I'm now dialing those in on the fly.

Islandlad77
06-09-2015, 12:16
I'm rocking TF @ 68 and FFB @ 35 since I last posted my settings man.
I've also stopped using Jack Spade's ffb settings per car and I'm now dialing those in on the fly.

I will give that a try but like I said, if i choose default then my wheel feels alot more alive so was wondering if just changeing steering gain down to 1.00 and leaving the rest on default then maybe i would get the desired effect.
will also try this tonight.

Titzon Toast
06-09-2015, 12:45
I will give that a try but like I said, if i choose default then my wheel feels alot more alive so was wondering if just changeing steering gain down to 1.00 and leaving the rest on default then maybe i would get the desired effect.
will also try this tonight.

It's certainly worth a try anyway, I recommend trying your Gain to 1.0, TF & FFB as above, then set your per car ffb settings with the Master and SOP scales @ 30 each.
Set your spindle values @ 80-90 to start with and see what you think.

Islandlad77
06-09-2015, 18:38
It's certainly worth a try anyway, I recommend trying your Gain to 1.0, TF & FFB as above, then set your per car ffb settings with the Master and SOP scales @ 30 each.
Set your spindle values @ 80-90 to start with and see what you think.

Well I tried it and honestly the wheel didn't feel connected at all. No kerb or road feel either.

Titzon Toast
06-09-2015, 20:16
Well I tried it and honestly the wheel didn't feel connected at all. No kerb or road feel either.

Turn up TF, FFB, Master & SOP scales to taste.
The Fz scale controls FFB over bumps and kerbs.

ChrisK
07-09-2015, 01:25
for anyone who owns the porsche 918 wheel using it on ps4:
does the funky toggle switch on the right side of the wheel act as the d-pad ? ie: left/right/up/down ?
does the analogue joystick on the left side of the wheel do anything ?
can you program anything for the ps button, or do you need the ds4 for that ?

GrimeyDog
07-09-2015, 02:20
I'm running a the 918 RSR . I guess it's much bigger then the F1 rim. This would makes for sure a difference regarding the torque. But I also noticed that the heaviness of the CSW V2 changed again and again.

As I said on Thursday I felt the wheel not that heavy at all. So I wanted to test on Friday & Saturday again.

On Friday I had several losses of feedback and I've had switched the wheel on and off a couple of times. But even worse after some Global FFB changes furth and back I had the impression that I've just got a reduced FFB on the whell and in the telemetry data the oscillation looked also a bit strange. Hard peaks in form of long needles instead of nice curves, an oscillatting wheel, hard impact on the rim when touching kerbs etc.. I left and restarted the game, restarted the PS4, recalibrated the wheel but actually no improvement.

Finally I stopped gaming after I did I recalibration. I'm totally annoyed.

On Saturday when I tried again everything was ok. Telemetry ok, FFB ok wheel feel ok - it was just definitly heavier than on Thursday where we started our discussion. So I turned down a little bit the TF and the feel was even better.

However after 5 months I'm getting sick and tired about the quality of the game - in my opionion Patch 3 didn't improve too much in terms of reliability of FFB in conjunction of game/profile saves .:mad:

I use Default FFB profile and My FFB Tweek is Working Exactly the Same or Even Better after update 3.0....I did Not Move any of the New Spring Scale Sliders.....Try My v#009 Tweek again.... I use Aut/Off DOR, 75% on Wheel FFB and 100% FOR ... All Wheel Settings are Stock and unchanged from default settings....

The Beauty of the V2 and V1 wheel is that if the Spring Force Effects are too Strong you can Turn the FOR Down with out Reducing the over all Wheel Torque/FFB Strength.... Make a Video of your Telemetry and Post it in the Compair FFB thread i Started. Should be interesting to compare Note and FFB Telemetry.

GrimeyDog
07-09-2015, 02:26
for anyone who owns the porsche 918 wheel using it on ps4:
does the funky toggle switch on the right side of the wheel act as the d-pad ? ie: left/right/up/down ?
does the analogue joystick on the left side of the wheel do anything ?
can you program anything for the ps button, or do you need the ds4 for that ?

Left Joy stick and Right Funky switch work Great on PS4 and will Do what ever you program them to do... Even the Left Funky toggle Switch Rotary Feature can be Programmed and works!!!

ChrisK
07-09-2015, 02:33
Left Joy stick and Right Funky switch work Great on PS4 and will Do what ever you program them to do... Even the Left Funky toggle Switch Rotary Feature can be Programmed and works!!!

Ty. Does that also include all menu navigation ?
What I'm trying to work out is how much I need to use the ds4 controller when using the wheel.

GrimeyDog
07-09-2015, 02:57
Ty. Does that also include all menu navigation ?
What I'm trying to work out is how much I need to use the ds4 controller when using the wheel.

You Dont Need to use the PS4 contolor after you launch the Game... The wheel.will Navigate all in game Menus but i like using the Controlor saves on Wheel button wearing out.

ChrisK
07-09-2015, 03:04
That's a great help. Ty.
I think you just cost me $500

gruzzlebeard
07-09-2015, 06:45
You Dont Need to use the PS4 contolor after you launch the Game... The wheel.will Navigate all in game Menus but i like using the Controlor saves on Wheel button wearing out.

Sorry don't understand. does that mean I can assign some buttons to the wheel and some others so the DS4 controller and use them at the same time in a race?

ChrisK
07-09-2015, 07:41
No, he's referring to menu navigation using the ds4 vs the wheel. The ds4 cannot be assigned tasks in addition to the wheel while racing. You need some sort of USB/BT keyboard/ button box for that.

NiQo
07-09-2015, 12:35
Hi!
Im willing to upgrade from my poor T100. I dont really feel like buying the t300 because of the poor pedals. Ofcourse upgradable, but Fanatec wheels and pedals just look better in every way. Just recently got an CSR wheel offered, which looks like a great option imo.

Now ive heard there were a lot of issues with the fanatec wheels when the game launched.
Can anyone tell me how the current status is?
Dont really care about minor bugs and/or incidents, just want to know if its driveable and doing what it should do.
Been scrolling through the last 3 pages but im not convinced yet :)

Thanks in advance.

Kain NL
07-09-2015, 16:19
The only thing you need a controller for is to use the PS button and navigating through PS XMB. That won't work with the wheel like TM has. And you can also use a keyboard for button mapping; USB, Bluetooth and dongle!!
And the Fanatec wheels are superior to TMs..I'd go for it anytime. There are only minor issues in finding a proper ffb set up, but ffb feel is a very personal thing!!!

Kain NL
08-09-2015, 11:27
I know that this is PS4 topic...but I think I found the missing link in all FFB feel with Fanatec gear. Last night I was on my XOne with settings I've created myself about 2 weeks ago, and was really pleased with it...BUT last night..almost no feel and telemetry telling me the same!!! For 1 last time I went back to ALL ffb settings. Used Grimeys pdf...EXCEPT, in game TF and FFB set to 100, the Master and SoP Scale to 58...other settings pdf.
Then...I set the WHEEL FFB to AUTO....turned base off and back on again to reset wheel...And I experienced MORE FFB feel then I ever had...it's even better then on my PS4 at the moment!!!! Only thing I need to get rid of is HEAVY clipping before the race starts...so in garage I need to hold the wheel for a moment to stop it from swinging from left to right.
I'm gonna try the wheel AUTO ffb option tonight on my PS4 TOO.

Sankyo
08-09-2015, 11:30
I know that this is PS4 topic...but I think I found the missing link in all FFB feel with Fanatec gear. Last night I was on my XOne with settings I've created myself about 2 weeks ago, and was really pleased with it...BUT last night..almost no feel and telemetry telling me the same!!! For 1 last time I went back to ALL ffb settings. Used Grimeys pdf...EXCEPT, in game TF and FFB set to 100, the Master and SoP Scale to 58...other settings pdf.
Then...I set the WHEEL FFB to AUTO....turned base off and back on again to reset wheel...And I experienced MORE FFB feel then I ever had...it's even better then on my PS4 at the moment!!!! Only thing I need to get rid of is HEAVY clipping before the race starts...so in garage I need to hold the wheel for a moment to stop it from swinging from left to right.
I'm gonna try the wheel AUTO ffb option tonight on my PS4 TOO.
AFAIK the game has been designed to run with the wheel option 'Sen' at AUTO (previously OFF) on PS4 as well (like on PC). Not sure if/how it also impacts FFB, but w.r.t. applying realistic, car-dependent steering angles the wheel needs to be set to AUTO.

NiQo
08-09-2015, 11:53
The only thing you need a controller for is to use the PS button and navigating through PS XMB. That won't work with the wheel like TM has. And you can also use a keyboard for button mapping; USB, Bluetooth and dongle!!
And the Fanatec wheels are superior to TMs..I'd go for it anytime. There are only minor issues in finding a proper ffb set up, but ffb feel is a very personal thing!!!

Thnx! Just got myself an CSR wheel with pedals. Will update to latest firmware tonight. Is there an overview of FFB settings for the CSR wheel?
Been scrolling through pages seeing that grimedog has some? but cant seem to find them in the 182 pages:P A link would be appreciated.

Also I see ur from Holland. Kun je uitleggen wat precies bedoeld word met "clipping"? Thnx ;)

FACT0RY PIL0T
08-09-2015, 12:21
Is anyone just loosing ffb at random points around the tracks? Like i was going dow the straights at monza and the ffb just went to nothing then all of a sudden would come back?

Sankyo
08-09-2015, 12:33
Is anyone just loosing ffb at random points around the tracks? Like i was going dow the straights at monza and the ffb just went to nothing then all of a sudden would come back?
Does it always happen on the same spot?

FACT0RY PIL0T
08-09-2015, 13:09
Does it always happen on the same spot?Yes it would do it everytime as soon as i would start going down the straight to Ascari complex for example but like as soon as i touched the brakes it would jerk and come back?I

Kain NL
08-09-2015, 17:36
AFAIK the game has been designed to run with the wheel option 'Sen' at AUTO (previously OFF) on PS4 as well (like on PC). Not sure if/how it also impacts FFB, but w.r.t. applying realistic, car-dependent steering angles the wheel needs to be set to AUTO.

I've got SEN to AUTO Remco. ;)

Kain NL
08-09-2015, 17:39
Thnx! Just got myself an CSR wheel with pedals. Will update to latest firmware tonight. Is there an overview of FFB settings for the CSR wheel?
Been scrolling through pages seeing that grimedog has some? but cant seem to find them in the 182 pages:P A link would be appreciated.

Also I see ur from Holland. Kun je uitleggen wat precies bedoeld word met "clipping"? Thnx ;)

Hey NiQo, like I said...the unconntrolable swinging of the wheel from left to right and back etc.

Anyone know a solution to that one ?

Kain NL
08-09-2015, 18:59
Okay...bubble blown....for an unknown reason, the wheel settings menu doesn't provide AUTo FFB on the PS4...So continue with what I have atm.

Sankyo
09-09-2015, 09:30
Okay...bubble blown....for an unknown reason, the wheel settings menu doesn't provide AUTo FFB on the PS4...So continue with what I have atm.

Huh, so what Sen setting do you use then?

GrimeyDog
09-09-2015, 11:31
Thnx! Just got myself an CSR wheel with pedals. Will update to latest firmware tonight. Is there an overview of FFB settings for the CSR wheel?
Been scrolling through pages seeing that grimedog has some? but cant seem to find them in the 182 pages:P A link would be appreciated.

Also I see ur from Holland. Kun je uitleggen wat precies bedoeld word met "clipping"? Thnx ;)

These were Made for the CWS V2 for PS4... Not sure how they will work with the CSR... try them and let me know... Send me a PM or Friend inv on PSN... My Tag is in my Sig... I can Help you Re Tweek them to your wheel.

Use the Default FFB profile
PDF says 24 FFB use 25 and 15 on relative adjust Bleed.
also for Dead Zone Removal Fall off Move Full Left to 0.00 then 5 clicks Right.

FFB is Very Strong at 100% FFB on Wheel... i set on wheel FFB to 75%.... Set DOR to AUT/Off and let game control the DOR...all other on wheel settings are unchanged/Default on wheel

Re: My Tweek


*** Edit i was posting from my phone and put the wrong link... its fixed now****

post#1722

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?21978-PS4-Fanatec-hardware-discussion-thread&p=1095824#post1095824

i use 75% FFB on wheel all other wheel settings are Stock... you should test drive on stock un tuned car first to get the feel of it.*

let me know how you like it.

pover74
09-09-2015, 17:47
can anybody help me please setting for fanatec f1 clubsport f1 rim thanks ps4

pover74
09-09-2015, 18:11
can anybody help me please settings for fanatec f1 clubsport f1 rim thanks ps4

Kain NL
09-09-2015, 21:02
Huh, so what Sen setting do you use then?

First of all, I use fw 116 out of driver V226 and fw 1.8 out of driver V222 on the V3 pedals.
On PS4 I use wheel 'SEN' set to 'Auto' and wheel 'FFB' at 100.
On my XOne I also use the 'SEN' set to 'Auto' BUT I found there's another option for the FFB WHEEL settings. One click past 100 there's Auto...and I found THAT one to be the best ffb feel that I've had on PCars EVER!!
My guess is that it has something to do with FM6 FFB....cause that option is not available in PS4/pc mode. But I'll know about that tomorrow after work!!!

GrimeyDog
09-09-2015, 23:10
First of all, I use fw 116 out of driver V226 and fw 1.8 out of driver V222 on the V3 pedals.
On PS4 I use wheel 'SEN' set to 'Auto' and wheel 'FFB' at 100.
On my XOne I also use the 'SEN' set to 'Auto' BUT I found there's another option for the FFB WHEEL settings. One click past 100 there's Auto...and I found THAT one to be the best ffb feel that I've had on PCars EVER!!
My guess is that it has something to do with FM6 FFB....cause that option is not available in PS4/pc mode. But I'll know about that tomorrow after work!!!

Hhhmmm Auto FFB??? Does it work like that with the TX wheel Also???

FW 226 is Borked up!!! Too Many Buggy issues Half Throttle, Gas Pedal, Brake Pedal just stops working in Car tuning Menu... I went back to Old Faithfull...223, ummm No 222 it is, Wait wait wait its FW 219... Maybe FW 205??? Maybe... All i Know is the Wheel Feels Great but im Not on 226 any More Wheel or Pedals...

I Fixed the Random Brake Pedal Spike Issue by Cleaning out all that Thick Petrolium Jelly and Putting in a Good Propper Teflon Dry Lube... That Petrolium Jelly is Thick enough to Stick the Brake Pedal foam by its Self!!! and its a Dust Magnet!!! But any way the V3 Pedals Feel Better than Ever Now...

Sum Dixon-Ear
09-09-2015, 23:34
I would hope that Fanatec are using lithium grease on the pedals rather than Vaseline, Grimey... then again, as a grown man who's main hobby is playing with powerful vibrating toys then you probably know your lubricants inside out... ;)

GrimeyDog
10-09-2015, 01:20
I would hope that Fanatec are using lithium grease on the pedals rather than Vaseline, Grimey... then again, as a grown man who's main hobby is playing with powerful vibrating toys then you probably know your lubricants inside out... ;)

Naaaa Man they using what they Call Technical Vasseline...???...Its a Silicone Based Vasseline...Its Too Thick and It Squeezed almost All out and was Pretty Much Dry when i went went to Have a Look at the PU Foam... I Cleaned it out and Put Dry Teflon Lube and its Great Mow i been using that on my V1 pedals since 2010.... and yup the Vasseline works better for other things but the Dry Teflon Lube aint so Great fa that... LOL

gotdirt410sprintcar
10-09-2015, 03:57
Has anyone had throttle spikes with the gt3rs I have g25 pedals? I don't think its my pedals I tried it on gt6 and they acted fine

NiQo
10-09-2015, 07:27
These were Made for the CWS V2 for PS4... Not sure how they will work with the CSR... try them and let me know... Send me a PM or Friend inv on PSN... My Tag is in my Sig... I can Help you Re Tweek them to your wheel.

Use the Default FFB profile
PDF says 24 FFB use 25 and 15 on relative adjust Bleed.
also for Dead Zone Removal Fall off Move Full Left to 0.00 then 5 clicks Right.

FFB is Very Strong at 100% FFB on Wheel... i set on wheel FFB to 75%.... Set DOR to AUT/Off and let game control the DOR...all other on wheel settings are unchanged/Default on wheel

Re: My Tweek


*** Edit i was posting from my phone and put the wrong link... its fixed now****

post#1722

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?21978-PS4-Fanatec-hardware-discussion-thread&p=1095824#post1095824

i use 75% FFB on wheel all other wheel settings are Stock... you should test drive on stock un tuned car first to get the feel of it.*

let me know how you like it.

Sup dog:cool:

Thnx for your reply. Hopefully my playseat will arrivé tomorrow, I will start from scratch then and enter your settings. I've also sent you an psn friend request. Ill let you know how the wheel feels and if it needs further adjustment. Thnx.

Mascot
10-09-2015, 07:39
The new paddle shifter microswitches for my GT2 arrived yesterday, and although the housing and board pins are correct, the actual 'button' is about 3mm longer than the originals. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether they'll be OK, or should I reorder? There is normally a bit of play in the paddle shifters anyway, so these longer switches might actually 'tighten them up' and be an accidental improvement. The original white rubber covers won't fit though.

I thought I'd better ask just in case anyone's tried this and knows I'm wasting my time, as the microswitches are quite fiddly components to replace.

OEM are more like top middle in the image below. The ones I have are more like top right (maybe another ~1mm longer).

http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mkrudbIYUFEgdXF1oxXUzAw.jpg

Titzon Toast
10-09-2015, 08:54
The new paddle shifter microswitches for my GT2 arrived yesterday, and although the housing and board pins are correct, the actual 'button' is about 3mm longer than the originals. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether they'll be OK, or should I reorder? There is normally a bit of play in the paddle shifters anyway, so these longer switches might actually 'tighten them up' and be an accidental improvement. The original white rubber covers won't fit though.

I thought I'd better ask just in case anyone's tried this and knows I'm wasting my time, as the microswitches are quite fiddly components to replace.

OEM are more like top middle in the image below. The ones I have are more like top right (maybe another ~1mm longer).

http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mkrudbIYUFEgdXF1oxXUzAw.jpg

As you know, Savoury is the man to answer that, but he's not about just yet.
All the Vaseline talk reminded him that it was singles night down at the Blue Oyster bar last night.
He'll wake up in some alley way soon and I'm fairly sure he'll pop in to help you once he can walk properly again.

GrimeyDog
10-09-2015, 10:21
LMAO!!!

Sum Dixon-Ear
10-09-2015, 10:40
The new paddle shifter microswitches for my GT2 arrived yesterday, and although the housing and board pins are correct, the actual 'button' is about 3mm longer than the originals. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether they'll be OK, or should I reorder? There is normally a bit of play in the paddle shifters anyway, so these longer switches might actually 'tighten them up' and be an accidental improvement. The original white rubber covers won't fit though.

I thought I'd better ask just in case anyone's tried this and knows I'm wasting my time, as the microswitches are quite fiddly components to replace.

OEM are more like top middle in the image below. The ones I have are more like top right (maybe another ~1mm longer).

http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mkrudbIYUFEgdXF1oxXUzAw.jpg

I've only replaced entire rim PCBs, never single components, however I would be wary of fitting a longer switch due to the tolerances involved. Personally, I would either source an exact replacement, try to trim either the contact point at the back of the paddle shifter itself or shorten the plastic on the microswitch with good wire cutters/snips e.g. If there is a small amount of play between the paddle and the original switch, I would be more tempted to attach a small, adhesive rubber foot to lessen play rather than fit a 3-4mm longer component.
Having said that, nothing beats a trial run... good luck Mascot.


(P.S. - I still can't walk properly)

Mascot
10-09-2015, 11:29
I've only replaced entire rim PCBs, never single components, however I would be wary of fitting a longer switch due to the tolerances involved. Personally, I would either source an exact replacement, try to trim either the contact point at the back of the paddle shifter itself or shorten the plastic on the microswitch with good wire cutters/snips e.g. If there is a small amount of play between the paddle and the original switch, I would be more tempted to attach a small, adhesive rubber foot to lessen play rather than fit a 3-4mm longer component.
Having said that, nothing beats a trial run... good luck Mascot.


(P.S. - I still can't walk properly)

I did think about cutting/sanding one down. I've got a bag of 100 of the buggers so it shouldn't be a problem to try..!

It did seem like an opportunity to remove some of the play in the paddles though. I just got a new needle-nosed electronic soldering iron but it still looks fiddly (and easily fuckupable) so don't want to piss about too much taking them on and off.

NiQo
10-09-2015, 12:46
Well hoping to find some help here again....

Just updated to newest firmware on csr wheel and went out for a spin. The wheel seems to work fine. The pedals however have issues.

If i calibrate them I loose L2+R2 buttons. They also don't work on controller anymore after this. Kinda hard to navigate/tune etc.

If I don't calibrate them the pedals work as L2+R2 buttons as they should.

However calibrated or not, the brake doesn't give a 100% input. In the telemetry screen the braking power shows only 70-80%. Kinda hard to be fast if I can't brake max. (Though they won't lock up now :))

Anymore people with these issues which perhaps know how to solve them?

Thanks in advance.

Sum Dixon-Ear
10-09-2015, 13:09
I think the pedal calibration/L buttons problem is a known issue, best advice is to reset the wheel in the 'Controls' screen and don't bother calibrating the pedals as they should work fine as is.

As for the brake issue, which pedals are they and have you tested them elsewhere (e.g. PC drivers or other games)?

Sankyo
10-09-2015, 13:54
Well hoping to find some help here again....

Just updated to newest firmware on csr wheel and went out for a spin. The wheel seems to work fine. The pedals however have issues.

If i calibrate them I loose L2+R2 buttons. They also don't work on controller anymore after this. Kinda hard to navigate/tune etc.

If I don't calibrate them the pedals work as L2+R2 buttons as they should.

However calibrated or not, the brake doesn't give a 100% input. In the telemetry screen the braking power shows only 70-80%. Kinda hard to be fast if I can't brake max. (Though they won't lock up now :))

Anymore people with these issues which perhaps know how to solve them?

Thanks in advance.

Pretty sure that the loss of L2+R2 buttons is a known issue and on the list to be solved.

As for the brake performance, make sure that the brake functions normally outside the game, check whether the ingame brake sensitivity settings are OK, whether you have brake assist enabled etc.

NiQo
10-09-2015, 15:29
This concerns the regular csr pedals. Which are mounted correctly and when the brake is fully pressed it comes just as deep as the other pedals.

Also no braking assist, no assists whatsoever actually.
The brake also kinda flickers. Here's a video of it:


http://youtu.be/KSe3ckwdq0k

I tried hooking it back up to the pc and reinstalled te latest firmware.
I didn't see an option to calibrate them on pc (as ingame).
My PC is not a high end gaming pc, there are no games on it whatsoever.
Cant test it on ps4 because afaik there are no other games supporting this wheel.

Sum Dixon-Ear
10-09-2015, 16:31
Use the PC drivers to test the function of the pedals, there should be a test screen which will show the outputs of the wheel/pedals. If the signals are erratic and/or not giving you full range then it's most likely going to be an issue with either a connection, cable or potentiometer/PCB inside the pedals.

Edit: You can test your hardware on the Function Test tab in the Fanatec driver interface -
217808

GrimeyDog
10-09-2015, 19:04
If you updated to FW 226 go back to your old FW...FW 226 seems to be borked up as far as the pedals...When i was on 226 my pedals never acted right they would randomly just go out Half throttle gas or Brake some times Both.

Sum Dixon-Ear
10-09-2015, 19:32
He has the CSR Wheel, not the CSW mate.

NiQo
10-09-2015, 21:37
Thanks all for thinking with me. The problem has just been solved.
I contacted the previous owner and it turned out he didnt assemble the pedal correctly.
There's a little gearing-wheel inside the pedal. I had to adjust it a little and now everything works fine, very pleased with the set so far.

Entering your ffb settings now grimeydog ;)

Islandlad77
10-09-2015, 23:12
guys really need some help here. i tried updating firmware on my gt3rs wheel. sometimes it gets stuck on phase 1 and sometimes on phase 2 but it crashes or said not responding before completion. ive now got no firmware showing on my wheel and am worried that its bricked. Ive tried unplugging at the mains, reinstalling drivers etc. really stuck as to what to do next.

Steve

Sum Dixon-Ear
10-09-2015, 23:40
Don't worry too much, the wheel shouldn't be bricked, more than likely the flash procedure has erased the old firmware but failed during the new install phase. Getting the firmware to stick can be a problem though, depending on why it's not flashing in the first place. It could be down to your operating system version, USB port or just the generally flaky nature of Fanatec's older software... I used to have a terrible time flashing my Turbo S on Win XP with my laptop... oh god... the memories!

Can you first try a different PC for the flash and if that doesn't work (or you can't get access to a different machine) we can try to eliminate the issue from there.

FACT0RY PIL0T
11-09-2015, 03:41
guys really need some help here. i tried updating firmware on my gt3rs wheel. sometimes it gets stuck on phase 1 and sometimes on phase 2 but it crashes or said not responding before completion. ive now got no firmware showing on my wheel and am worried that its bricked. Ive tried unplugging at the mains, reinstalling drivers etc. really stuck as to what to do next.

Steve

Make sure each line 1 2 3 of the bootloader flash program looks like the image below. Yours may say gt3 instead. It took me 2 days to finally have it right and work.. download the instructions. With the gt2 it stops halfway then you turn the wheel off then back on in bootloader mode then hit the flash program continue and it finishes up the flashing process.
217839

FACT0RY PIL0T
11-09-2015, 03:58
Naaaa Man they using what they Call Technical Vasseline...???...Its a Silicone Based Vasseline...Its Too Thick and It Squeezed almost All out and was Pretty Much Dry when i went went to Have a Look at the PU Foam... I Cleaned it out and Put Dry Teflon Lube and its Great Mow i been using that on my V1 pedals since 2010.... and yup the Vasseline works better for other things but the Dry Teflon Lube aint so Great fa that... LOL

Dry graphite or teflon is bout the only thing to use in the brake where pu foam is but also have noticed some will make the pu foam swell and the the brake will drag stick. I ended up just cleaning it out and used just a very very small amount of dry graphite rubbed onto the outside of the pu foam, and havent had a lock up in over a year.

Sankyo
11-09-2015, 08:26
guys really need some help here. i tried updating firmware on my gt3rs wheel. sometimes it gets stuck on phase 1 and sometimes on phase 2 but it crashes or said not responding before completion. ive now got no firmware showing on my wheel and am worried that its bricked. Ive tried unplugging at the mains, reinstalling drivers etc. really stuck as to what to do next.

Steve


Don't worry too much, the wheel shouldn't be bricked, more than likely the flash procedure has erased the old firmware but failed during the new install phase. Getting the firmware to stick can be a problem though, depending on why it's not flashing in the first place. It could be down to your operating system version, USB port or just the generally flaky nature of Fanatec's older software... I used to have a terrible time flashing my Turbo S on Win XP with my laptop... oh god... the memories!

Can you first try a different PC for the flash and if that doesn't work (or you can't get access to a different machine) we can try to eliminate the issue from there.
Indeed, your wheel isn't bricked but you need to find a PC that works properly with the Updater. General things to take care of is to run the Updater as Administrator, disable anti-virus, disable USB power saving, use a USB2.0 port.

Islandlad77
11-09-2015, 08:27
Make sure each line 1 2 3 of the bootloader flash program looks like the image below. Yours may say gt3 instead. It took me 2 days to finally have it right and work.. download the instructions. With the gt2 it stops halfway then you turn the wheel off then back on in bootloader mode then hit the flash program continue and it finishes up the flashing process.
217839
All sorted now thanks. Had to hold base button until files came up.

Sik180sx
12-09-2015, 09:59
Ok after a long hiatus and no more turbo s wheel,i have some settings for the csr

In-game FFb:100
On wheel
Sens: off
Ff:100
Sho:whatever you want
Dri:3
Abs:whatever you want
Lin:000
Dea:000
Spr: off
Dpr: off
Acl: off

FFB Calibration
Tf:100
Pwm:0.02
Pwms:-0.03
Wps:0.04
Drr:0.04
Drf:0.02
Leave the linkage stuff as is
Rag:1.00
Rab:0.10
Rac:1.00
Sknee:0.0
Sred:0.0
Soft clip half:1.29
Soft clip full:1.79
Mss:0.10
Lssc:0.75
Lsss:0.35
Steer gain:1.00

For my vehicle settings i run around 26-32 master depending on the vehicle
Fx around 70
Fy around 50
Fz arond 120
Mz around 100

Sop scale should mirror your master scale
Sop lat i run the same as whatever my fy is
Sop diff around half of my fz

I hope some csr users enjoy these settings as much as i have been :)
And don't worry,i wonn't be upset if you don't like them haha :)
Happy racing
(Oh and a side note these settings should do ok on the turbo s and 911 gt3 wheels)

Mascot
12-09-2015, 10:51
I lost the last crucial 10-15% of braking power last night in MP races and knew straight away what the reason was - my temporary hollow-ball mod to the bathroom scale load cell was crushed flat. I'm amazed it worked for as long as it did as it was only fitted to prove a theory while a proper ball bearing was sourced. The new solid BB to replace the crushed ball is on the right (warning - lazy S6 phone photos):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bnBY6nYUped19EsmopRDaUBr-9aHfDGy3xpbcNKyjBrKMBa24ZGOnJo8QwaSoD8DvTQtHiYqHX4EIFnbMymTJxn7xJ_M35rvInO_EUVCwJHTogtxF9nztJVGCfK97CZJcL7Hoa41X4iKblcPqFVTQUNbstGSPyaNB9RpJd-vL5IWo8YJEtbuZf6Vc0IBSC1nEjtoUdtlijnzuj9GzbO-d__IGObPtlBVwhNm1HP92YTt_v_es5Pj3UmByGYhLDC9kJ9aPVx7lgvYSQXN1BzGc93FGgkp0uDOB07BTrUc5qbXjl0rAWQPoQ7hh9gSPIRFcv7wI6Zgl1LU_mGtx-OTq-iLshW8FajHEdRTE1pn0dnrhjaQMKLeWA9Z7RHadpGwdQeYib57ErSyWT65mA24HdAH55DdkVklzvQf2ZtjeZ2cJjCyCvmJM67TsHppnwQoOstAyjzvZYFB2zzNVh__mUq6_pP51zrAfQOZRQWKx7PZnA1B3IEFgpXtndnGl9d7_TnvlqXsRpil50ZyCEJf5U6W6huPvF68yJA9KImVX1g=w1156-h675-no

Here's the new BB fitted between the piston and the load cell. Problem solved:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lk-UV5WlgpaJltg08D73KiqRwyezG8tH4pYvziLmgX264gEgVFNhamVNfGb0BoXhUFH0Sd4q_0evMYqn8NcmWeetn-8NRBFg9vjjAHhlCnc_c0o2l-3RXlgwcjItbmWZ4IDhp9MH0c7Fd3mdzfQRDcIzDNa4ilY_LRRozg_EAGGn44aUjZP4f9Tyw6Ry8uGSxZWBLO1eaM6BDbFWis1lrv21rDm90v4RmQWRZdVawShs0Bw-9vJMaKxDT4KPSRGX8xFi5913mMpHFJkbIIwde2SV62W59HIcQ_qp15n96l85T976dVlEqMTOKbO68wjzLgIBkJITrDpGf1mmQ5Y3HhZaUsWU-J8fEFWg_w8PqkpkyEeZUd1d6oBqO4OnlTCTjQOR1XARoDMhwKsz9-_kL4KzkKsWaG4XN0w3z1G2sqfZKjMWsiDI5C8NytDuF3dMb65ongAS2jio3Sl6oJj7zCrjPL2US-CuL9mv6pbtNfWPhvuu7OQibwn-TO_WWbUmBg9gdrP0S1AbvelqAUP7AByqz8bQaA3yS7kqi3rr4E0=w1200-h675-no

My attempt to replace a shifter microswitch on my GT2 was a failure. I probably created a short in the PCB trying to get the old switch off, as each of the four pins had to be released one by one with the soldering iron and the switch carefully prised off bit by bit. It was incredibly fiddly, as was fitting the new switch on to existing solder, and ended up as a bit of a mess.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kzj9Q56C2HE_khW147PbN_dLOSojSNd5XoebBzDbZllr1hL1MhrYw5UjdT4O8WXCc31qgo9lExbnpJksz2wmDS_Jg7PZ9JLKmiJ-h6AgwKGeEwA4V9BGqzg1RFLzlzewZUDo8Cy9XwCON9n0rdl-jPicu86U7JE9BPHPFHs8iTwo6dTL81KY8xcLuoZt_lPQwO-JB7KKM4C0KLVoDFbhBd0PPMOeJRacxGsrREe3jLRNZnGX4kYA0mD9Ksmzooe0HuxGiXP5lKmea72QGppfQfhC22465FIMjNTwSCC-PlFVCTxNDlcq8PkZA-GWHbHxu5xr6NUe-OlRErCQpUPZ884JPfafb2DpBrpHvhPb97tGnvVZvEJ6awymnCnubshtEZIClb55q86lOzgo9qTFlUDjc9l_GI_Rreseh7W7NRp4AkipNxuvd88Y7try8qy2uxTJ0Quwh-OD-NkKOOIB5cdJrY26giAGW8dD6ceK8Ubwdd4VWAX5tfnJgqaqGKnQs9FzzfYKkmsR8q7yDzXZYXq75K4v2mu1RQUlZGtyhfw=w1200-h675-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nUUNVMe0Dft-sFVXr-f0H4BPpq_nhS19HAWhKbrm2w7_EtoSFiGziMGBnyOUXfKg_VOGhm7E8bg6ZYYrGaZ5I15XhwU6E81PR18jnW--oVgowmxBSi87aU3cV1Vz4DSCfoTFg4PP4jmA4XCyUNtCtXt-3EZpG3GSUxp6g7W04ioy73BkBywzpnhT2bxpgkyWpEIIBAxfvC9jPsitmhUThHX0uoq3lmsoAmlDWghtaFubTc7P4o2ewue0dpTlJFLzLhJOq1KQNqRIjT_0k4SCLdLNWQe6CXp6qusJ_XUEqmAPkAVnna2VwKXe7pRrMgOGVz1o_Mt7XDKK-KzIn6JLNrxU5wpf493qTFkmfH2ts-r73FU7UAKmSJJzmb0_HksdXloo-pYw99aVDddMxK5wYArtJjKHma8NY2E2uqBJo03aVvezfWXJjLD5uW5XpANBtGK4d3MyFG8TwDgRKZ4VrsdHgAJK49Ri89eqA6dAEMrgLbumSUokDuCdpkh00_tiKBWwT5md8zvsc7ePFEALBefDym9OM1Jzg98h6wK3Etc=w1200-h675-no

Annoyingly, the old switch now seems to be operating fine, almost as if the heat from the iron as it was being removed freed it up. Oh well, the wheel still works, I just have to use my h-gate or sequential shifter instead of the paddles.
Testing:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vfc8FgQdMih4I4p5DIv7fi_nZBURoE3ecYBtWxdcd1upxXfBE3OCnCVrtIsn1qNIRgEie9yBE3NA05s3MTYSpxaH_grEfBEK6NuIS18qS1VGzyfZXA5bpoWTRnBHRo7eTAA_xV6e7WJ2CP63u3aK5Tf6LZFOgyE_c-at_ssqTdpNtgCOosxIhRU2g1x6D8Wp9cm-Ch-eNCTuGrQoElP-8TNXhafU4Z_XiESRJ-fQnc2NpxoBMPwsqpl4XOjwoWS7SNai2qUcNmFn47DSDn2GdlEZlrvfeoMsMkWRg2ngCh1-1uzRrdfj3cj1jy9BftuPGXdGLN4tRt3pX9AxCHVfU0eNLs_oCS4GRkQTSZe0hE66JRbCyPjJylykLxsnhpuOl__xCrcWNu5ekAMWjzGlv1s4ywXQrdvmBvmK5SgZD6Q_NgSCGXutTEBerBKvxmxWF__NB1vs-XokGg-7SFdoSPO_WsBIHMTABqvJoglGX8HtBd4M4MOF1bIY6pxTI4d5duoqnPxXJ1kl103zHxfM0LFQ7I46_W2uhfuYwUBPaPQ=w1200-h675-no

I'll keep using the Frankenwheel while I investigate getting a completely new board. I imagine it's prohibitively expensive though. I might be better off harvesting the organs of a cheap doner wheel from eBay.

FACT0RY PIL0T
12-09-2015, 16:14
I lost the last crucial 10-15% of braking power last night in MP races and knew straight away what the reason was - my temporary hollow-ball mod to the bathroom scale load cell was crushed flat. I'm amazed it worked for as long as it did as it was only fitted to prove a theory while a proper ball bearing was sourced. The new solid BB to replace the crushed ball is on the right (warning - lazy S6 phone photos):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bnBY6nYUped19EsmopRDaUBr-9aHfDGy3xpbcNKyjBrKMBa24ZGOnJo8QwaSoD8DvTQtHiYqHX4EIFnbMymTJxn7xJ_M35rvInO_EUVCwJHTogtxF9nztJVGCfK97CZJcL7Hoa41X4iKblcPqFVTQUNbstGSPyaNB9RpJd-vL5IWo8YJEtbuZf6Vc0IBSC1nEjtoUdtlijnzuj9GzbO-d__IGObPtlBVwhNm1HP92YTt_v_es5Pj3UmByGYhLDC9kJ9aPVx7lgvYSQXN1BzGc93FGgkp0uDOB07BTrUc5qbXjl0rAWQPoQ7hh9gSPIRFcv7wI6Zgl1LU_mGtx-OTq-iLshW8FajHEdRTE1pn0dnrhjaQMKLeWA9Z7RHadpGwdQeYib57ErSyWT65mA24HdAH55DdkVklzvQf2ZtjeZ2cJjCyCvmJM67TsHppnwQoOstAyjzvZYFB2zzNVh__mUq6_pP51zrAfQOZRQWKx7PZnA1B3IEFgpXtndnGl9d7_TnvlqXsRpil50ZyCEJf5U6W6huPvF68yJA9KImVX1g=w1156-h675-no

Here's the new BB fitted between the piston and the load cell. Problem solved:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lk-UV5WlgpaJltg08D73KiqRwyezG8tH4pYvziLmgX264gEgVFNhamVNfGb0BoXhUFH0Sd4q_0evMYqn8NcmWeetn-8NRBFg9vjjAHhlCnc_c0o2l-3RXlgwcjItbmWZ4IDhp9MH0c7Fd3mdzfQRDcIzDNa4ilY_LRRozg_EAGGn44aUjZP4f9Tyw6Ry8uGSxZWBLO1eaM6BDbFWis1lrv21rDm90v4RmQWRZdVawShs0Bw-9vJMaKxDT4KPSRGX8xFi5913mMpHFJkbIIwde2SV62W59HIcQ_qp15n96l85T976dVlEqMTOKbO68wjzLgIBkJITrDpGf1mmQ5Y3HhZaUsWU-J8fEFWg_w8PqkpkyEeZUd1d6oBqO4OnlTCTjQOR1XARoDMhwKsz9-_kL4KzkKsWaG4XN0w3z1G2sqfZKjMWsiDI5C8NytDuF3dMb65ongAS2jio3Sl6oJj7zCrjPL2US-CuL9mv6pbtNfWPhvuu7OQibwn-TO_WWbUmBg9gdrP0S1AbvelqAUP7AByqz8bQaA3yS7kqi3rr4E0=w1200-h675-no

My attempt to replace a shifter microswitch on my GT2 was a failure. I probably created a short in the PCB trying to get the old switch off, as each of the four pins had to be released one by one with the soldering iron and the switch carefully prised off bit by bit. It was incredibly fiddly, as was fitting the new switch on to existing solder, and ended up as a bit of a mess.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kzj9Q56C2HE_khW147PbN_dLOSojSNd5XoebBzDbZllr1hL1MhrYw5UjdT4O8WXCc31qgo9lExbnpJksz2wmDS_Jg7PZ9JLKmiJ-h6AgwKGeEwA4V9BGqzg1RFLzlzewZUDo8Cy9XwCON9n0rdl-jPicu86U7JE9BPHPFHs8iTwo6dTL81KY8xcLuoZt_lPQwO-JB7KKM4C0KLVoDFbhBd0PPMOeJRacxGsrREe3jLRNZnGX4kYA0mD9Ksmzooe0HuxGiXP5lKmea72QGppfQfhC22465FIMjNTwSCC-PlFVCTxNDlcq8PkZA-GWHbHxu5xr6NUe-OlRErCQpUPZ884JPfafb2DpBrpHvhPb97tGnvVZvEJ6awymnCnubshtEZIClb55q86lOzgo9qTFlUDjc9l_GI_Rreseh7W7NRp4AkipNxuvd88Y7try8qy2uxTJ0Quwh-OD-NkKOOIB5cdJrY26giAGW8dD6ceK8Ubwdd4VWAX5tfnJgqaqGKnQs9FzzfYKkmsR8q7yDzXZYXq75K4v2mu1RQUlZGtyhfw=w1200-h675-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nUUNVMe0Dft-sFVXr-f0H4BPpq_nhS19HAWhKbrm2w7_EtoSFiGziMGBnyOUXfKg_VOGhm7E8bg6ZYYrGaZ5I15XhwU6E81PR18jnW--oVgowmxBSi87aU3cV1Vz4DSCfoTFg4PP4jmA4XCyUNtCtXt-3EZpG3GSUxp6g7W04ioy73BkBywzpnhT2bxpgkyWpEIIBAxfvC9jPsitmhUThHX0uoq3lmsoAmlDWghtaFubTc7P4o2ewue0dpTlJFLzLhJOq1KQNqRIjT_0k4SCLdLNWQe6CXp6qusJ_XUEqmAPkAVnna2VwKXe7pRrMgOGVz1o_Mt7XDKK-KzIn6JLNrxU5wpf493qTFkmfH2ts-r73FU7UAKmSJJzmb0_HksdXloo-pYw99aVDddMxK5wYArtJjKHma8NY2E2uqBJo03aVvezfWXJjLD5uW5XpANBtGK4d3MyFG8TwDgRKZ4VrsdHgAJK49Ri89eqA6dAEMrgLbumSUokDuCdpkh00_tiKBWwT5md8zvsc7ePFEALBefDym9OM1Jzg98h6wK3Etc=w1200-h675-no

Annoyingly, the old switch now seems to be operating fine, almost as if the heat from the iron as it was being removed freed it up. Oh well, the wheel still works, I just have to use my h-gate or sequential shifter instead of the paddles.
Testing:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vfc8FgQdMih4I4p5DIv7fi_nZBURoE3ecYBtWxdcd1upxXfBE3OCnCVrtIsn1qNIRgEie9yBE3NA05s3MTYSpxaH_grEfBEK6NuIS18qS1VGzyfZXA5bpoWTRnBHRo7eTAA_xV6e7WJ2CP63u3aK5Tf6LZFOgyE_c-at_ssqTdpNtgCOosxIhRU2g1x6D8Wp9cm-Ch-eNCTuGrQoElP-8TNXhafU4Z_XiESRJ-fQnc2NpxoBMPwsqpl4XOjwoWS7SNai2qUcNmFn47DSDn2GdlEZlrvfeoMsMkWRg2ngCh1-1uzRrdfj3cj1jy9BftuPGXdGLN4tRt3pX9AxCHVfU0eNLs_oCS4GRkQTSZe0hE66JRbCyPjJylykLxsnhpuOl__xCrcWNu5ekAMWjzGlv1s4ywXQrdvmBvmK5SgZD6Q_NgSCGXutTEBerBKvxmxWF__NB1vs-XokGg-7SFdoSPO_WsBIHMTABqvJoglGX8HtBd4M4MOF1bIY6pxTI4d5duoqnPxXJ1kl103zHxfM0LFQ7I46_W2uhfuYwUBPaPQ=w1200-h675-no

I'll keep using the Frankenwheel while I investigate getting a completely new board. I imagine it's prohibitively expensive though. I might be better off harvesting the organs of a cheap doner wheel from eBay.Keeping my spares handy just incase 217952

but seems right now im fighting a wheel position sensor glitch thats random. You think after all these years of being one of the quicker players id have sponsors throwing wheels, Headsets etc etc at me... :p

Sum Dixon-Ear
12-09-2015, 16:46
Yeah... spares... :cool:

217956

Edit : The books and shoes aren't mine... honest!

Mascot
12-09-2015, 17:21
Balls! Dawdled and missed out on a factory-upgraded CSWv1 and BMW rim for £450.

FACT0RY PIL0T
12-09-2015, 17:30
Ok after a long hiatus and no more turbo s wheel,i have some settings for the csr

In-game FFb:100
On wheel
Sens: off
Ff:100
Sho:whatever you want
Dri:3
Abs:whatever you want
Lin:000
Dea:000
Spr: off
Dpr: off
Acl: off

FFB Calibration
Tf:100
Pwm:0.02
Pwms:-0.03
Wps:0.04
Drr:0.04
Drf:0.02
Leave the linkage stuff as is
Rag:1.00
Rab:0.10
Rac:1.00
Sknee:0.0
Sred:0.0
Soft clip half:1.29
Soft clip full:1.79
Mss:0.10
Lssc:0.75
Lsss:0.35
Steer gain:1.00

For my vehicle settings i run around 26-32 master depending on the vehicle
Fx around 70
Fy around 50
Fz arond 120
Mz around 100

Sop scale should mirror your master scale
Sop lat i run the same as whatever my fy is
Sop diff around half of my fz

I hope some csr users enjoy these settings as much as i have been :)
And don't worry,i wonn't be upset if you don't like them haha :)
Happy racing
(Oh and a side note these settings should do ok on the turbo s and 911 gt3 wheels)

This feel pretty good, but how do i get rid of the ffb dead zone in the middle, im not talking wheel movement deadzone the resistance deadzone. The Formula A is what I drive the most and the very center first movements just like have no resistance if any at all, and it just doesnt feel natural?

Mascot
12-09-2015, 17:32
Yeah... spares... :cool:

217956

Edit : The books and shoes aren't mine... honest!

Are those your £5-for-4 load cells..?

Sum Dixon-Ear
12-09-2015, 17:42
Yup, arrived from China in 3 days as well.

0i8u2
13-09-2015, 13:50
Yup, arrived from China in 3 days as well.

Are these the same load cells
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4pcs-YZC-161-Body-Load-Cell-Scale-Bathroom-Weighing-Sensor-50Kg-Half-Bridge-/281657387889

Sum Dixon-Ear
13-09-2015, 14:45
Are these the same load cells
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4pcs-YZC-161-Body-Load-Cell-Scale-Bathroom-Weighing-Sensor-50Kg-Half-Bridge-/281657387889

They certainly look the same, the ones that I purchased were these though - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-pcs-x-50Kg-Body-Load-Cell-Weighing-Sensor-Resistance-meter-strain-Half-bridge-/221463943308?hash=item339047988c

Edit : Looks like the same seller is listing on eBay Australia - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-pcs-x-50Kg-Body-Load-Cell-Weighing-Sensor-Resistance-meter-strain-Half-bridge-/221463943308?hash=item339047988c

08G8V8
13-09-2015, 16:18
I have the GT2 wheel and Clubsport V1 pedals. I updated to 756 firmware and driver v205. I have the pedals connected to the wheel and all pedals work properly when using the properties software on he PC. I just got PCars for the PS4, and when I connect to the PS4 via USB, I can use the D-pad on the wheel to move through the menus, but the pedals aren't recognized. I went into the configurations page, and was able to map the gas pedal and I think it mapped as Right tilt. Then when I try to do the brake, it maps it to Right Tilt. The pedals and wheel don't work. The gas worked, but no brake.

It shows the wireless controller on the configuration page, and not the GT2 wheel.

I have read through this thread, sporadically, and see folks having pedal issues, but haven't read the entire thread to find the answer I need.

Is there a post that walks you through properly setting up my gear to the PS4? Thanks

FACT0RY PIL0T
13-09-2015, 18:16
I have the GT2 wheel and Clubsport V1 pedals. I updated to 756 firmware and driver v205. I have the pedals connected to the wheel and all pedals work properly when using the properties software on he PC. I just got PCars for the PS4, and when I connect to the PS4 via USB, I can use the D-pad on the wheel to move through the menus, but the pedals aren't recognized. I went into the configurations page, and was able to map the gas pedal and I think it mapped as Right tilt. Then when I try to do the brake, it maps it to Right Tilt. The pedals and wheel don't work. The gas worked, but no brake.

It shows the wireless controller on the configuration page, and not the GT2 wheel.

I have read through this thread, sporadically, and see folks having pedal issues, but haven't read the entire thread to find the answer I need.

Is there a post that walks you through properly setting up my gear to the PS4? Thanksweird as i have the same exact setup for ps4, and all I did was the 756 firmware plugged the wheel into the ps4 controller usb left slot, and it worked. I have my headset and controller plugged into a usb hub that is plugged into the right usb slot. The wheel doesnt seem to want to work in the right usb slot.

Kain NL
13-09-2015, 18:48
@08G8V8, did you start up the game, when asked to press the X button, with the controller or on the wheel ? My guess is the controller....you NEED to start up the game by pressing the button that resembles the X button on the wheel to load the wheel profile!!!!

08G8V8
13-09-2015, 18:54
@08G8V8, did you start up the game, when asked to press the X button, with the controller or on the wheel ? My guess is the controller....you NEED to start up the game by pressing the button that resembles the X button on the wheel to load the wheel profile!!!!

I will give this a try.....thanks

08G8V8
13-09-2015, 19:01
That works. I will play around with it later.....watching football now.

Want to be able to use this setup until my CSW V2 and hub show up.

Thanks!

0i8u2
13-09-2015, 23:28
They certainly look the same, the ones that I purchased were these though - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-pcs-x-50Kg-Body-Load-Cell-Weighing-Sensor-Resistance-meter-strain-Half-bridge-/221463943308?hash=item339047988c

Edit : Looks like the same seller is listing on eBay Australia - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-pcs-x-50Kg-Body-Load-Cell-Weighing-Sensor-Resistance-meter-strain-Half-bridge-/221463943308?hash=item339047988c

Thanks mate, I will order from the link you gave to be sure.
Cheers

Pappa_Stig
13-09-2015, 23:47
I've read a lot about how often the load cells in the CSPs fail, and also read about people having to replace the hall sensors too, so when I bought my second hand CSP V1s, I was prepared for the worst, but to my surprise I think I've lucked into a solid set. These were purchased by a good friend of mine in 2010, and used for a lot of iRacing for two years, and then put away on a dusty bench in his workshop (he's a mechanic, this workshop is not exactly a clean environment), where it sat for three years unused. I paid him $100aud for them, gave them a good clean, and mounted them to my cockpit, and they are flawless. Everything works perfectly. He also said he never had to replace anything on them.

People often say Logitech stuff is reliable and the older Fanatec stuff can be unreliable, but I've had the opposite experience. My old logitech pedals lasted two months before the pots started playing up.

Anyway, I bought a CSR to go with the pedals, and it works a bloody treat in Pcars. Lots of stuffing about with ffb settings, but I can get a really nice feel for what the wheels are doing. Wheel and pedals cost me a combined $250aud, which is half the price of a T300 or G29, and considering the pedals are light years ahead of the sets that come with either of those, I couldn't be happier! I think I'll be a loyal Fanatec customer for the foreseeable future. I intend on buying a CSW V2 at some point in future. Atm my car takes preference and it needs new leads and coil, as it's developed a miss on boost :(

Sum Dixon-Ear
14-09-2015, 00:35
I've read a lot about how often the load cells in the CSPs fail, and also read about people having to replace the hall sensors too, so when I bought my second hand CSP V1s, I was prepared for the worst, but to my surprise I think I've lucked into a solid set. These were purchased by a good friend of mine in 2010, and used for a lot of iRacing for two years, and then put away on a dusty bench in his workshop (he's a mechanic, this workshop is not exactly a clean environment), where it sat for three years unused. I paid him $100aud for them, gave them a good clean, and mounted them to my cockpit, and they are flawless. Everything works perfectly. He also said he never had to replace anything on them.

People often say Logitech stuff is reliable and the older Fanatec stuff can be unreliable, but I've had the opposite experience. My old logitech pedals lasted two months before the pots started playing up.

Anyway, I bought a CSR to go with the pedals, and it works a bloody treat in Pcars. Lots of stuffing about with ffb settings, but I can get a really nice feel for what the wheels are doing. Wheel and pedals cost me a combined $250aud, which is half the price of a T300 or G29, and considering the pedals are light years ahead of the sets that come with either of those, I couldn't be happier! I think I'll be a loyal Fanatec customer for the foreseeable future. I intend on buying a CSW V2 at some point in future. Atm my car takes preference and it needs new leads and coil, as it's developed a miss on boost :(

The load cells can last for many years without issue, which in my experience is generally the norm, however as cheap parts with probably minimal quality control (and for me the weakest link in the CSP V1/2 'chain') they do fail. I would consider them as consumables and always have a few spares kept aside as I don't want my pedals out of action due to such an easily replaceable component.

The load cells can also differ greatly in the amount of pressure required to achieve the same brake readout, I've had a few that an elephant would struggle to get to 100% brake force and others that are pretty easy to get full readings from. The one I've been using on my V2s since I bought them is a bit on the stiff side for my liking so I do plan to try a few others to find one in the sweet spot... of course I will have to 'retune' my foot to get used to it, but the brake pedal's ABS motor tells you when you are at the required brake percentage which makes adjusting to a new cell a lot easier.

Pappa_Stig
14-09-2015, 03:24
The load cells can last for many years without issue, which in my experience is generally the norm, however as cheap parts with probably minimal quality control (and for me the weakest link in the CSP V1/2 'chain') they do fail. I would consider them as consumables and always have a few spares kept aside as I don't want my pedals out of action due to such an easily replaceable component.

The load cells can also differ greatly in the amount of pressure required to achieve the same brake readout, I've had a few that an elephant would struggle to get to 100% brake force and others that are pretty easy to get full readings from. The one I've been using on my V2s since I bought them is a bit on the stiff side for my liking so I do plan to try a few others to find one in the sweet spot... of course I will have to 'retune' my foot to get used to it, but the brake pedal's ABS motor tells you when you are at the required brake percentage which makes adjusting to a new cell a lot easier.

Oh yeah I agree 100% that they're consumables, and I plan on buying a few as spares, and also a couple of hall sensors too.

As far as the differing forces required for max, do you think that's why Fanatec put the pot on the brake so you can make the stiff ones easier to hit 100% on and the easier ones a bit harder? The one in mine is quite hard to hit 100% on if the dial isn't turned at least 3 quarters down (or is it up? lol). I have the dial turned to make it as sensitive as possible, and the pedal travel quite short (like an F1 brake pedal, I can rest my foot on it without it moving), and I just adjust brake pressure in game to suit how hard I want to push to get max pressure. I love the load cell brake, it makes controlling lock ups in open wheelers very intuitive!

Mascot
14-09-2015, 07:37
My OEM load cell lasted over four years of heavy use. It's recent replacement (harvested from a set of bathroom scales with a minor mod) feels identical.

Quick open question: is the v1 CSW a worthy upgrade over the GT2 if one can be found cheap, and what would be 'cheap'..?
is a v3 in the works?

Sankyo
14-09-2015, 07:58
My OEM load cell lasted over four years of heavy use. It's recent replacement (harvested from a set of bathroom scales with a minor mod) feels identical.

Quick open question: is the v1 CSW a worthy upgrade over the GT2 if one can be found cheap, and what would be 'cheap'..?
is a v3 in the works?
The difference in FFB strength and detail between a CSW v1 and GT2 is enormous, so I'd say yes. Not sure what "cheap" would be, given that they seem to be quite popular in the second-hand market.

keeponmoving
14-09-2015, 09:43
I had my csw v1 four times at fanatec for repairs(all under guarantee) .
But since the last one a year ago it works perfect with the newest Fw with which you can't set the ff and force not too high so it causes damage. But if you set it as high as possible on pcars it will get too warm and minimise the force till its cooled down. But force that high usually your hands will fall off after a couple of rounds. ;) Had CSP v1 as well without any Problems over 3 1/2 years but upgradet to v3 because of brake power setup by just screwing which for me is perfect.

Mascot
14-09-2015, 09:51
The difference in FFB strength and detail between a CSW v1 and GT2 is enormous, so I'd say yes. Not sure what "cheap" would be, given that they seem to be quite popular in the second-hand market.

A factory-upgraded v1 with BMW rim was on eBay from the USA for around £450 delivered. I dawdled and missed it.
Original listing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361385358889?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Seemed like a good price.

Sum Dixon-Ear
14-09-2015, 10:12
I'd have bitten his hand off at that price bud, hope you find another going that cheap... I think you'll be very lucky though.

As Remco says, the difference between a Porsche/CSR wheel and the CSW V1 (and even the Elite) is huge! When my pre-release Elite burned out it's first set of early version motors I went back to my GT2 while awaiting the replacement block from Fanatec... I thought it was broken too as the FFB was so weak and numb in comparison.

Keep looking as the upgrade will utterly blow you away.

Sankyo
14-09-2015, 10:54
A factory-upgraded v1 with BMW rim was on eBay from the USA for around £450 delivered. I dawdled and missed it.
Original listing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361385358889?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Seemed like a good price.
Don't want to rub it in, but yeah that was a good price.

Sum Dixon-Ear
14-09-2015, 11:00
Don't want to rub it in, but what in the name of all things holy were you thinking man?!?! Go and sit in the corner and give yourself a damned good talking to.

FTFY Remco... :D

K_Soze
14-09-2015, 12:46
Hello, I have my half year half day to play a little bit, but since the patch 3.0, the terrible bug taht was tere in the 1.2 comes back.
Is there a way to get a decent FFB in this game ?
I restart the game between every race because if not the FFB is changing even if I am using the same vehicle.
But no way to have something that feel like something "working correctly"
I am using firmware 110.

https://youtu.be/32gLYGVfYhY

Bruno Alexandre
14-09-2015, 12:56
Hello, I have my half year half day to play a little bit, but since the patch 3.0, the terrible bug taht was tere in the 1.2 comes back.
Is there a way to get a decent FFB in this game ?
I restart the game between every race because if not the FFB is changing even if I am using the same vehicle.
But no way to have something that feel like something "working correctly"
I am using firmware 110.

https://youtu.be/32gLYGVfYhY


Hey, could you tell us what settings you have on your wheel profile?

gruzzlebeard
14-09-2015, 13:03
Hi Bruno, I discover this every day. I stopped meanwhile playing a lot because it's annoys me more and more.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?21978-PS4-Fanatec-hardware-discussion-thread/page180&p=1110878#post1110878
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?21978-PS4-Fanatec-hardware-discussion-thread&p=1110945#post1110945

K_Soze
14-09-2015, 13:07
Problem solved :S

I updated to firmware 116 then the problem disappear : the issue is caused by the spring that was not OFF. Removing the spring changes everything. Thank you Bruno to provide the hint :)

Bruno Alexandre
14-09-2015, 13:22
Hi Bruno, I discover this every day. I stopped meanwhile playing a lot because it's annoys me more and more.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?21978-PS4-Fanatec-hardware-discussion-thread/page180&p=1110878#post1110878
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?21978-PS4-Fanatec-hardware-discussion-thread&p=1110945#post1110945


Problem solved :S

I updated to firmware 116 then the problem disappear : the issue is caused by the spring that was not OFF. Removing the spring changes everything. Thank you Bruno to provide the hint :)

The spring should work on the PS4 as well, at least i havnt had any issues with it so far.

I'm using the following settings for all Platforms (PC/PS4/XB1): SEN= AUT / FF=100 / SHO= OFF / ABS= 65 / LIN= OFF / DEA=OFF / DRI=OFF / FOR=100 / SPR=100 / DPR=OFF / BRF=60
In-game i just leave every deadzone on 0 and sensitivity on 50, i increase the ForceFeedback to 100 and then tweak around the FFB Calibration screen.

K_Soze
14-09-2015, 13:28
The spring should work on the PS4 as well, at least i havnt had any issues with it so far.

I'm using the following settings for all Platforms (PC/PS4/XB1): SEN= AUT / FF=100 / SHO= OFF / ABS= 65 / LIN= OFF / DEA=OFF / DRI=OFF / FOR=100 / SPR=100 / DPR=OFF / BRF=60
In-game i just leave every deadzone on 0 and sensitivity on 50, i increase the ForceFeedback to 100 and then tweak around the FFB Calibration screen.

The FFB was a nightmare with spring : entering menus makes the wheel spin violently to random angles, when hitting a kerb the FFb was very violent.
With spring set to OFF, everything is smooth. The wheel doesn't turn in menus. I can start to enjoy pCars :)

gruzzlebeard
14-09-2015, 13:30
Hello, I have my half year half day to play a little bit, but since the patch 3.0, the terrible bug taht was tere in the 1.2 comes back.
Is there a way to get a decent FFB in this game ?
I restart the game between every race because if not the FFB is changing even if I am using the same vehicle.
But no way to have something that feel like something "working correctly"I am using firmware 110.

https://youtu.be/32gLYGVfYhY


The spring should work on the PS4 as well, at least i havnt had any issues with it so far.

I'm using the following settings for all Platforms (PC/PS4/XB1): SEN= AUT / FF=100 / SHO= OFF / ABS= 65 / LIN= OFF / DEA=OFF / DRI=OFF / FOR=100 / SPR=100 / DPR=OFF / BRF=60
In-game i just leave every deadzone on 0 and sensitivity on 50, i increase the ForceFeedback to 100 and then tweak around the FFB Calibration screen.

Thanks Bruno, I'm more referring to the statement of K_Soze highlighted in blue. Do you have the FFB strenght fluctuations on your radar screen @ SMS?

Bruno Alexandre
14-09-2015, 13:33
The FFB was a nightmare with spring : entering menus makes the wheel spin violently to random angles, when hitting a kerb the FFb was very violent.
With spring set to OFF, everything is smooth. The wheel doesn't turn in menus. I can start to enjoy pCars :)

Ok, still odd the behavior to be honest. If you ever try the Spring at 100% again, do me a favour and see if it still behaves the same way if you set it like this:

Game Settings: FFB: 100 // Tire Force: 60
Force Feedback Calibration (in-game): Menu Spring Strenght 0.15, Low Speed Spring Coefficient 0.64, Low Speed Spring Saturation 0.46, Steering Gain 150.
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212191&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1437144336

Note: These are not recommended settings, just personal settings i use.

Bruno Alexandre
14-09-2015, 13:34
Thanks Bruno, I'm more referring to the statement of K_Soze highlighted in blue. Do you have the FFB strenght fluctuations on your radar screen @ SMS?

I do use the telemetry screen, can you provide a video which displays the abnormal behaviour you are experiencing ?

gruzzlebeard
14-09-2015, 13:46
Of course Bruno. Actually I've not planned to touch the FFB settings anymore because I'm fed up with it :rolleyes: ;) .
I check some of my stored videos which I've recorded for a proof and comparison. Maybe I can reuse them to demonstrate the differences.
However I was never able to reproduce the issues clearly.

If I cannot retrace it I will insert next time a video with my latest settings when it happens again.

Bruno Alexandre
14-09-2015, 13:48
Of course Bruno. Actually I've not planned to touch the FFB settings anymore because I fed up with it :rolleyes: ;) .
I check some of my stored videos which I've recorded for a proof and comparison. I will insert next time a video with my latest settings when it happens again. And Maybe I can reuse them to demonstrate the differences.

Ok thanks, include with it info on the settings you have set on your wheel and in-game if possible to see if we can find a reason for this behavior.

K_Soze
14-09-2015, 14:00
Ok, still odd the behavior to be honest. If you ever try the Spring at 100% again, do me a favour and see if it still behaves the same way if you set it like this:

Game Settings: FFB: 100 // Tire Force: 60
Force Feedback Calibration (in-game): Menu Spring Strenght 0.15, Low Speed Spring Coefficient 0.64, Low Speed Spring Saturation 0.46, Steering Gain 150.
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212191&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1437144336

Note: These are not recommended settings, just personal settings i use.

I have tried your settings, the FFB problem is still there when using some in Wheel SPRING (have you ever read the french translation of the FFB menus ? It's impossible to understand a single line while I am both French and a video game programmer that have some experience in car physics modelisation. Should switch menus to english :) )

I will return to "Costume" default settings ;)

GrimeyDog
14-09-2015, 14:34
The FFB was a nightmare with spring : entering menus makes the wheel spin violently to random angles, when hitting a kerb the FFb was very violent.
With spring set to OFF, everything is smooth. The wheel doesn't turn in menus. I can start to enjoy pCars :)

Try Turning the Springs back on and just Turn the FOR setting on the V2 Wheel Down until you are comfortable.

GrimeyDog
14-09-2015, 14:57
I'm running a the 918 RSR . I guess it's much bigger then the F1 rim. This would makes for sure a difference regarding the torque. But I also noticed that the heaviness of the CSW V2 changed again and again.

As I said on Thursday I felt the wheel not that heavy at all. So I wanted to test on Friday & Saturday again.

On Friday I had several losses of feedback and I've had switched the wheel on and off a couple of times. But even worse after some Global FFB changes furth and back I had the impression that I've just got a reduced FFB on the whell and in the telemetry data the oscillation looked also a bit strange. Hard peaks in form of long needles instead of nice curves, an oscillatting wheel, hard impact on the rim when touching kerbs etc.. I left and restarted the game, restarted the PS4, recalibrated the wheel but actually no improvement.

Finally I stopped gaming after I did I recalibration. I'm totally annoyed.

On Saturday when I tried again everything was ok. Telemetry ok, FFB ok wheel feel ok - it was just definitly heavier than on Thursday where we started our discussion. So I turned down a little bit the TF and the feel was even better.

However after 5 months I'm getting sick and tired about the quality of the game - in my opionion Patch 3 didn't improve too much in terms of reliability of FFB in conjunction of game/profile saves .:mad:



My FFB is always the Same... This is Very Puzzling as we use the same Wheel base and Rim... you should try Re-Tweeking your FFB settings... I dont use any setting over 100... also i believe it to be false information that you have to keep Game FBB at 100%.... Try My settings again... and use 75% wheel FFB and 25% in game FFB... also if the Center spring is Too Hash for you you can Turn down the FOR setting on the wheel.... I like a Lot of feel in my wheel so i keep the in Car FFB masters at 100 but the in car FFB settings Much Lower.... If you reduce the in Car Masters the FFB forces can be Reduced to your comfort Level....I did Not Change any of the New 3.0 update Spring controle sliders... Problem is there are Too Many Settings to Tweek and you Dont Need Most of them!!! IE: Damping and Smoothing those settings Kill the FFB forces you are Trying to Feel!!! If you Balance your FFB Settings you dont Need Either of those. Dont Believe the Myth that you Have to Keep your In Game FFB at 100%!!! This is False

https://youtu.be/q3UXSiH7Lx8

Check this Video, Listen to the Comment about the Relative Adjust Bleed and try it for your self...its being Decribed as a "Time Base Setting" IMO That is False information....This setting has a MAJOR impact on How our Wheel FFB Feels!!! its also another way to Reduce your wheel from being too Harsh around the Center FFB Bump/Curb feel... Ive gotten pretty good understanding at the FFB Setting... 150+ Hrs of Tweeking and im Finally Starting to really Enjoy Racing PCars... i checked My Driver profile and since update 3.0 its the first time i have more time Racing than engineering!!! Its a GREAT Sim Racer once you get it sorted.... Let me know if i can Help.

Fong74
14-09-2015, 15:39
Hello, I have my half year half day to play a little bit, but since the patch 3.0, the terrible bug taht was tere in the 1.2 comes back.
Is there a way to get a decent FFB in this game ?
I restart the game between every race because if not the FFB is changing even if I am using the same vehicle.
But no way to have something that feel like something "working correctly"
I am using firmware 110.

https://youtu.be/32gLYGVfYhY

I hear that from some ppl here and there but never had it myself. One question: same vehicle, ok. But is it the same track and daytime=temperature also where you experience the changes in the FFB? Running in Brno or Watkins Glen makes a lot of difference in the feel you get from the game. The surfaces of the tracks are different. Temperature can make your wheel also looser when it gets colder. Changing the track ususally changes the setup, too. This also has some impact on FFB.

The other thing is:
If I use SPR 100 and DPR OFF like Bruno, I get oscillations in the wheel. Mostly in braking zones or bumpy straights (between second and third right hander in Zhuhai e.g. with a Formula B). When I turn DPR to 100, all is fine. I was thinking that is correct, oscillations feel like a spring without damping actually...

My FFB settings are in my sig, if you want to try them. I am a very happy man with my setup and those settings. PCars is a blast with them for me.

p.s.:
Did I mention even the brake pedal is vibrating by now? :D Im so happy with that feature! It makes me grin every time it kicks in making me realize that I am about to go over the cars grip level. Awesome! Been waiting for that full CSP-Support for years literally. And having it on console now makes it even cooler

GrimeyDog
14-09-2015, 15:51
Hello, I have my half year half day to play a little bit, but since the patch 3.0, the terrible bug taht was tere in the 1.2 comes back.
Is there a way to get a decent FFB in this game ?
I restart the game between every race because if not the FFB is changing even if I am using the same vehicle.
But no way to have something that feel like something "working correctly"
I am using firmware 110.

https://youtu.be/32gLYGVfYhY

Check your Settings and Make sure you dont have the Opposite Steering Lock Help on... this setting is located on the screen where you set your Gas,Brake,Clutch Dead Zone Its at the Bottom of the Sceen in the the advanced Settings Tab.

GrimeyDog
14-09-2015, 18:37
Ok, still odd the behavior to be honest. If you ever try the Spring at 100% again, do me a favour and see if it still behaves the same way if you set it like this:

Game Settings: FFB: 100 // Tire Force: 60
Force Feedback Calibration (in-game): Menu Spring Strenght 0.15, Low Speed Spring Coefficient 0.64, Low Speed Spring Saturation 0.46, Steering Gain 150.
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212191&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1437144336

Note: These are not recommended settings, just personal settings i use.

WOW!!! Thats Relative adjust Bleed is Set Super HIGH!!!

Mascot
15-09-2015, 09:33
I've got a CSRE winging its way to me as we speak. Does anyone have any recommended in-game and on-wheel settings to maximise my enjoyment?
I'm expecting a decent overall improvement from my GT2.

gruzzlebeard
15-09-2015, 10:33
I've no clue but it seems GTsimms shared something about CSR wheels http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&p=1106058&viewfull=1#post1106058

Sankyo
15-09-2015, 10:36
I've got a CSRE winging its way to me as we speak. Does anyone have any recommended in-game and on-wheel settings to maximise my enjoyment?
I'm expecting a decent overall improvement from my GT2.
Set Sen to OFF, the rest as you like personally (I'd keep it all default). In the driver, set degree of rotation to 900.

I would recommend to start with default FFB and see if you like it or not. If not, try tweaking yourself, or using posted tweakers or settings, or ask here if there is something specific in the FFB that you want to tune in or out.

-Brick_Top-
15-09-2015, 17:10
In the driver, set degree of rotation to 900.


Do driver settings on pc make any difference at all when using wheel on ps4?
I thought the only thing that makes a difference for us ps4 users is firmware version and wheel settings (and obviously in game settings)

Sankyo
15-09-2015, 18:49
Do driver settings on pc make any difference at all when using wheel on ps4?
I thought the only thing that makes a difference for us ps4 users is firmware version and wheel settings (and obviously in game settings)

Aw oops, for sure the driver has nothing to do with the PS4 version, I thought I was still in the PC thread. Sorry :)

gruzzlebeard
15-09-2015, 20:54
My FFB is always the Same... This is Very Puzzling as we use the same Wheel base and Rim... you should try Re-Tweeking your FFB settings... I dont use any setting over 100... also i believe it to be false information that you have to keep Game FBB at 100%.... Try My settings again... and use 75% wheel FFB and 25% in game FFB... also if the Center spring is Too Hash for you you can Turn down the FOR setting on the wheel.... I like a Lot of feel in my wheel so i keep the in Car FFB masters at 100 but the in car FFB settings Much Lower.... If you reduce the in Car Masters the FFB forces can be Reduced to your comfort Level....I did Not Change any of the New 3.0 update Spring controle sliders... Problem is there are Too Many Settings to Tweek and you Dont Need Most of them!!! IE: Damping and Smoothing those settings Kill the FFB forces you are Trying to Feel!!! If you Balance your FFB Settings you dont Need Either of those. Dont Believe the Myth that you Have to Keep your In Game FFB at 100%!!! This is False

Howdy GrimeyDog, of course I give your setting I a new try after patch 3.0. I'm really keen to experiment now with a different approach by reduced FFB in order to squeeze out even more detailed signals in lower/medium range. If the settings doesn't work for me I can easily switch back to my classic settings.

Actually I found now a pretty decent and linear setup without Scoop and only some basic settings for DRR/DRF and RA and the more classic approach with 100% FFB & 100% TF.

Regarding the variants in FFB strenghts I can just say that this happens mainly when messing around in the FFB calibration tab of the Wheel Profile. Now I havent had issues because I didn't touch the settings for 2 weeks. Before I apply your setup I will reset and recalibrate my wheel. Then I will add your values in one strike.




https://youtu.be/q3UXSiH7Lx8

Check this Video, Listen to the Comment about the Relative Adjust Bleed and try it for your self...its being Decribed as a "Time Base Setting" IMO That is False information....This setting has a MAJOR impact on How our Wheel FFB Feels!!! its also another way to Reduce your wheel from being too Harsh around the Center FFB Bump/Curb feel... Ive gotten pretty good understanding at the FFB Setting... 150+ Hrs of Tweeking and im Finally Starting to really Enjoy Racing PCars... i checked My Driver profile and since update 3.0 its the first time i have more time Racing than engineering!!! Its a GREAT Sim Racer once you get it sorted.... Let me know if i can Help.

Just to reasure - I checked already your video before you finished to upload it
I agree that RA has a permanent impact on the wheel feel. But this is maybe more my gut feeling then a proven fact. Only SMS knows and nobody from this gang say something for the records and document it.

K_Soze
16-09-2015, 10:56
Just found why the cars were moving while I was pressing the clutch: the value of the clutch was 0 to 85. I had to calibrate pedals in game. Close the game. Calibrate the pedals once again. Then I am able to reach 100% on the clutch.

We are so far from what makes a console game more plug and play than a PC. This time I think I'm done with pCars, can't found fun in carrier mode. Don't understand how the AI is able to have a turning radius twice shorter than me with a wheel input of a few degrees (I watched my car driven by AI, the wheel almost doesn't turn while if it's me even with 120 degrees I can't have the same turning radius).

Good luck to everyone who deserve a good racing simulation.

Fanapryde
16-09-2015, 11:03
Just found why the cars were moving while I was pressing the clutch: the value of the clutch was 0 to 85. I had to calibrate pedals in game. Close the game. Calibrate the pedals once again. Then I am able to reach 100% on the clutch.

We are so far from what makes a console game more plug and play than a PC. This time I think I'm done with pCars, can't found fun in carrier mode. Don't understand how the AI is able to have a turning radius twice shorter than me with a wheel input of a few degrees (I watched my car driven by AI, the wheel almost doesn't turn while if it's me even with 120 degrees I can't have the same turning radius).

Good luck to everyone who deserve a good racing simulation.
Sounds to me as if this is not the game's fault...
Off course you have the calibrate your pedals in game. Also your wheel for that matter. Might explain the second part of your post.
And thanks, PCars is a good racing simulator for me...;)

Fong74
16-09-2015, 11:06
Hey guzzlebeard,

I just gave a try on those values from your settings-post, as I remembered that mine were somehow different:

Your setings:

Controller Input Mode: 3
Advanced: OFF
- Soft Steering Dampering: OFF
- Visual Wheel Filtering: OFF
- Opposite Lock Help: OFF


My current settings:

Controller Input Mode: 3
Advanced: ON
- Soft Steering Dampering: ON
- Visual Wheel Filtering: ON
- Opposite Lock Help: OFF


I dont remember setting them myself, so I guess mine are the default?

After testing forth and backward I must say that with Advanced etc set to OFF, some details disappear while driving, especially the bumps and subtle road effects. The wheel feels more lifeless, like everything was smoothened down.

Have a try yourself if you like...

p.s.:
Love the linearity infos on DRI. I was always unsure what to set, althougt OFF felt linear. Now I know, so thanks for that!

gruzzlebeard
16-09-2015, 11:19
Hi Fong, thanks a lot then I should compare the advanced settings again. Thought that Soft Steering Dampening is more for controller drivers. And dampenings sounds also not that good ;)

BTW I saw a post that there is a bug with the advanced settings. if you switch it once to ON and later back to OFF then it will be ON again when starting the game. So maybe from there you might wonder why it is on in your case?

Fong74
16-09-2015, 11:49
I was totally ignoring the names, as I aggree with you, they sound completely uninteresting from a CSW drivers view. I can further commit that the ON/OFF behaviour is as you describe. I was therefore setting all to OFF manually, before turning Advanced to OFF also, for testing.

I did feel a difference though. So I would be glad if you could verify that from your end, so I can be sure my perception was no placebo.

Thanks for for all those insights you have provided in other posts. Very interesting and informative. I appreciate the efforts you guys put into FFB tweaking a lot!

Bruno Alexandre
16-09-2015, 16:43
WOW!!! Thats Relative adjust Bleed is Set Super HIGH!!!

I have a fetish with heavy steering. ^^

Parth335
16-09-2015, 17:42
Hi guys,

I recently purchased the Fanatec gt3 rs wheel. I am having a few issues with the game, asking for help from someone with similar wheel on ps4.
Issue #1
I updated the firmware and can play with the wheel and pedals, however I am unable to set up the H shifter. When I go manual mode I can clutch in but hen have to use paddle shifters to shift gears. Is anyone having this issue and is there a fix
Issue #2
This might be the pedals or the game not sure, but the accelerator pedal has no response in upper gears. Car accelerated quickly through lower gears and then struggles to top out in last two gears. Not sure what to do.
What are the best settings for this wheel I am looking for a realistic experience with good feedback. Also I am not experience any steering deadzone issues.

Thanks in advance!

Sum Dixon-Ear
16-09-2015, 19:58
Have you calibrated the shifter using the wheel's onboard settings?

Parth335
16-09-2015, 22:09
How do I do that and the shifter just connects with one wire to the wheel correct?

Sum Dixon-Ear
16-09-2015, 23:33
The shifter connects to the blue PS/2 input I think.

The shifter calibration procedure is below -

Power on the wheel
Choose any platform mode (Xbox 360/PS3/PC)
Make sure your 7GS shifter is connected to the wheel.
Press Start Button + TUNING button at the same time
The LED display will show G_n
Bring the 7GS into neutral position
Press the Start Button
The display will now change to G_r
Enter reverse gear
Press the Start Button
The display will now change to G_1
Bring the 7GS into 1st gear
Press the Start Button
The display will now change to G_2
Bring the 7GS into 2nd gear
Press the Start Button
The display will now change to G_3
Bring the 7GS into 3rd gear
Press the Start Button
The display will now change to G_4
Bring the 7GS into 4th gear
Press the Start Button
The display will now change to G_5
Bring the 7GS into 5th gear
Press the Start Button
The display will now change to G_6
Bring the 7GS into 6th gear
Press the Start Button
Press the Tuning Button to exit the menu
Calibration is complete

Parth335
17-09-2015, 03:38
okay perfect will give it a shot in the tomorrow. Also what feedback settings are you running to get the best experience

thanks you

Sum Dixon-Ear
17-09-2015, 12:20
I'm not using a GT3, so my settings probably wouldn't help you. Check these forums for FFB settings/advice, there are a few stickied threads and plenty of resources going around.

Sankyo
17-09-2015, 12:32
okay perfect will give it a shot in the tomorrow. Also what feedback settings are you running to get the best experience

thanks you

Given that FFB is highly personal, I would first advise to try the pre-defined FFB profiles. If those are still not to your liking, tell us what you don't like, or scan this thread for settings that people posted. There isn't a single solution that fits all tastes so you'll have to do some experimenting.

boksandbom
18-09-2015, 08:29
Clarification needed regarding patch 4.0 on PS 4
May i understand this right ?
this could be huge :
- "support for CSP connected via USB "
could this mean i can use my t 300 RS and fanatec club sport v3 on ps4 each one connected via usb to ps4 ??
Literraly a game changer for console owners who want mix thrustmaster whell and fanatec pedals.

Sankyo
18-09-2015, 08:33
Clarification needed regarding patch 4.0 on PS 4
May i understand this right ?
this could be huge :
- "support for CSP connected via USB "
could this mean i can use my t 300 RS and fanatec club sport v3 on ps4 each one connected via usb to ps4 ??
Literraly a game changer for console owners who want mix thrustmaster whell and fanatec pedals.
Yes, that's correct. You can connect your CSPs separately through USB now :)

boksandbom
18-09-2015, 08:43
What ?? Oh Man i have my csp v3 since august waiting for thé cpx adapatator, this Is HUGE i may call the day off !!
Sms surpasse everything i could expect, i didn t even ask for this in the wishlist thread cause it seems impossible.
Remko two last questions
1/ my whell Is connected to my usb on PS 4 and the other usb Is for my wireless headset via a kind of usb key, any trick to get my 3 devices connected ( t300, csp v3 and wireless headset) ?
2/ do the cspv3's brake and throttle rumble functionality Will work this way

Fanapryde
18-09-2015, 09:02
question my whell Is connected to my usb on PS 4 and the other usb Is for my wireless headset via a kind of usb key, any trick to get my 3 devices connected ( t300, csp v3 and wireless headset) ?
Leave your wheel connected to port one and use a externally powered USB hub in port 2.
I am doing this since PS3 and works fine. I have my shifter, USB backup, headset wireless dongle and button box connected. For PS4 I had to move the USB hub, because when it is too close to the console, some interference was going on when using the headset.

boksandbom
18-09-2015, 09:12
Thanks for your answer just wanna be sure to understand what kind Of hub i need to get can you advise me a good product (Link)
Thanks

Sankyo
18-09-2015, 10:31
What ?? Oh Man i have my csp v3 since august waiting for thé cpx adapatator, this Is HUGE i may call the day off !!
Sms surpasse everything i could expect, i didn t even ask for this in the wishlist thread cause it seems impossible.
Remko two last questions
1/ my whell Is connected to my usb on PS 4 and the other usb Is for my wireless headset via a kind of usb key, any trick to get my 3 devices connected ( t300, csp v3 and wireless headset) ?
2/ do the cspv3's brake and throttle rumble functionality Will work this way
OK I'm afraid I'll have to ruin your excitement, but connecting the pedals through USB only works in combination with a Fanatec wheel, not with other brands. Sorry.

Mascot
18-09-2015, 10:41
So, it looks like patch 4.0 removes the functionality of the second joystick for Formula rim users on PS4 to make space for a handbrake.

In other words, an incredibly useful and versatile set of mappable controls have been removed so that you can drift Tokyo-style, boyeeeeeee with an F1 rim.

SMS, with respect, are you out of your friggin' minds?

Sum Dixon-Ear
18-09-2015, 10:44
This is up there with chocolate fireguards mate... grrrrr.

Sum Dixon-Ear
18-09-2015, 10:55
I've spent weeks getting everything mapped out perfectly for me and consigned to memory... it was brilliant.... and now this!?!?

You might as well just have turned up at my house this morning and pissed on my cornflakes.

Mascot
18-09-2015, 11:02
I've spent weeks getting everything mapped out perfectly for me and consigned to memory... it was brilliant.... and now this!?!?

You might as well just have turned up at my house this morning and pissed on my cornflakes.
You'll eat those words when you discover the joys of drifting the Parabolica in your Formula A like the bastard love-child of Vin Diesel and Nico Rosberg.

Fanapryde
18-09-2015, 11:03
Thanks for your answer just wanna be sure to understand what kind Of hub i need to get can you advise me a good product (Link)
ThanksI believe most external powered USB hubs will do, I have this one (exist also in 7port):
http://www.conrad.be/ce/nl/product/629547/629547-USB-30-hub-4-poorten-met-aluminium-behuizing-Zwart.

Aluminium housing, blue pilot lights for each port, blue ligth for on/off switch.

GrimeyDog
18-09-2015, 11:07
OK I'm afraid I'll have to ruin your excitement, but connecting the pedals through USB only works in combination with a Fanatec wheel, not with other brands. Sorry.

Question... Im using the V3 Pedals... What would be the Benefit of Pluuging them Directly into the PS4 or XB1??? I Know the Resolution Should improve for the V1/V2 pedals to 1024... is that Correct??? The V3 Pedals plugged into the V2 wheel the Resolution is already 1024 or am i wrong???

Sankyo
18-09-2015, 11:07
So, it looks like patch 4.0 removes the functionality of the second joystick for Formula rim users on PS4 to make space for a handbrake.

In other words, an incredibly useful and versatile set of mappable controls have been removed so that you can drift Tokyo-style, boyeeeeeee with an F1 rim.

SMS, with respect, are you out of your friggin' minds?
This wasn't an SMS decision, it was changed in the Fanatec SDK.

Sankyo
18-09-2015, 11:08
Question... Im using the V3 Pedals... What would be the Benefit of Pluuging them Directly into the PS4 or XB1??? I Know the Resolution Should improve for the V1/V2 pedals to 1024... is that Correct??? The V3 Pedals plugged into the V2 wheel the Resolution is already 1024 or am i wrong???
Yes I think that's correct, so for v3 owners this won't make much of a difference.

GrimeyDog
18-09-2015, 11:12
Yes I think that's correct, so for v3 owners this won't make much of a difference.

Thanks.

Mascot
18-09-2015, 11:29
This wasn't an SMS decision, it was changed in the Fanatec SDK.

But it worked perfectly yesterday, and was removed in today's patch. How is that Fanatec's doing? SMS coded the patch.

Sum Dixon-Ear
18-09-2015, 11:43
I suppose that any work done by SMS utilising SDK 1.6.1 will have that repercussion.. when the driver/functionality patches are applied with the new dev kit then the d-pad is just gone as Fanatec removed it.

Such a great idea Fanatec, well done....

218411

boksandbom
18-09-2015, 11:50
OK I'm afraid I'll have to ruin your excitement, but connecting the pedals through USB only works in combination with a Fanatec wheel, not with other brands. Sorry.

Arrhhhh too good to be true .... I Will continue waiting my cpx
Thks remco

Mascot
18-09-2015, 12:27
I suppose that any work done by SMS utilising SDK 1.6.1 will have that repercussion.. when the driver/functionality patches are applied with the new dev kit then the d-pad is just gone as Fanatec removed it.

Such a great idea Fanatec, well done....

218411

Totally baffling to me, especially if it really is to make way for a bloody handbrake.

Cabriojoschy
18-09-2015, 18:28
It seems that only the CSR Elite is affected, as both joysticks of my CSW are working like before patch. Therefor my CSH isn´t working. Even when you see no benefit in having a working Handbrake, I would like to have the possibility to use it! Since we can use keyboards to have more inputs I don´t see a problem in using only one joystick.

Mascot
18-09-2015, 18:49
It seems that only the CSR Elite is affected, as both joysticks of my CSW are working like before patch. Therefor my CSH isn´t working. Even when you see no benefit in having a working Handbrake, I would like to have the possibility to use it! Since we can use keyboards to have more inputs I don´t see a problem in using only one joystick.

I'd love you have a working handbrake as much as I'd like a working second joystick. I've asked in the patch thread if there's a possibility that we can select which one we want to use, that way everyone is happy.

Sankyo
18-09-2015, 19:10
I'd love you have a working handbrake as much as I'd like a working second joystick. I've asked in the patch thread if there's a possibility that we can select which one we want to use, that way everyone is happy.
I don't know the details but Fanatec wouldn't change they SDK if it were possible to have both handbrake and second dpad working at the same time for consoles. Apparently this is not possible, so they chose to support the handbrake that couldn't be supported otherwise, at the cost of a couple of buttons that can be resolved by, for example, mapping those functions to a keyboard.

I don't think that an option of using one SDK or another is possible. Any user choice is in the game, and the game depends on the SDK that either supports the second dpad or the handbrake.

Cabriojoschy
18-09-2015, 19:24
@Remco: Will the new SDK support the CSW V2 in the next update, or is something wrong within my setup?

Sik180sx
18-09-2015, 19:34
This feel pretty good, but how do i get rid of the ffb dead zone in the middle, im not talking wheel movement deadzone the resistance deadzone. The Formula A is what I drive the most and the very center first movements just like have no resistance if any at all, and it just doesnt feel natural?

Sorry for late reply,lower your deadzone removal range 1 click at a time :)

flatspunout
18-09-2015, 19:40
What is the benefit of running CSP's through their own USB port as opposed to plugged into the wheel?

Sum Dixon-Ear
18-09-2015, 21:47
What is the benefit of running CSP's through their own USB port as opposed to plugged into the wheel?

Higher resolution; through the wheel, the pedals output 256bit and direct via USB cable it's 1024bit. You will lose the vibration feature of the ABS function on console though.

Sum Dixon-Ear
18-09-2015, 23:03
Oh well, I remapped the buttons on my Formula Rim and it's absolutely fine now... just need to get used to the new labels :D


218461

08G8V8
19-09-2015, 00:09
OK, I just got a CSW V2 and Xbox Hub and am playing PCars on PS4. I havelayed practice laps, and done the solo weekend racer thing, and started a career. I don't know if this is a Fanatec issue or a PCars issue.....but I will run a race in either solo or career, then go to the next race, and ALL FFB is gone. Without changing any settings, it just disappears. I can then go back to the menu and pick another section of the game to race in, and it works fine.

I have not seen this mentioned before. Is this a known issue? Is it game or hardware related?

Thanks

flatspunout
19-09-2015, 04:24
Higher resolution; through the wheel, the pedals output 256bit and direct via USB cable it's 1024bit. You will lose the vibration feature of the ABS function on console though.

Thanks, that's good news. I don't have ABS rumble active on the wheel so I won't miss it...would be nice to have it supported through USB though.

Since my shiny new next gen PS4 has a measly two USB ports, will a hub work for connecting a keyboard/button box/DS4/etc?

Mascot
19-09-2015, 08:37
I don't know the details but Fanatec wouldn't change they SDK if it were possible to have both handbrake and second dpad working at the same time for consoles. Apparently this is not possible, so they chose to support the handbrake that couldn't be supported otherwise, at the cost of a couple of buttons that can be resolved by, for example, mapping those functions to a keyboard.

I don't think that an option of using one SDK or another is possible. Any user choice is in the game, and the game depends on the SDK that either supports the second dpad or the handbrake.

By "they", do you mean SMS or Fanatec?

Sum Dixon-Ear
19-09-2015, 11:00
Thanks, that's good news. I don't have ABS rumble active on the wheel so I won't miss it...would be nice to have it supported through USB though.

Since my shiny new next gen PS4 has a measly two USB ports, will a hub work for connecting a keyboard/button box/DS4/etc?

I use a powered hub, not had any issues at all with it.

gruzzlebeard
19-09-2015, 13:28
Post patch 4.0 I cannot assign the R4 button anymore in the assignment tab of controls. CSW V2 with 918 RSR rim - can somebody confirm this?

Fong74
19-09-2015, 13:31
I can. Unfortunately. Several of my racing mates reported that, too.

Switching to some SDK might add some benefits for the devs, no function should disappear for the user imo.

Can we expect all button mappings possible with our Fanatec HW back with the next patch, Remco?

gruzzlebeard
19-09-2015, 13:43
what means SDK?;)

Fanapryde
19-09-2015, 13:47
Oh well, I remapped the buttons on my Formula Rim and it's absolutely fine now... just need to get used to the new labels :D


218461
Just wondering what the label under KERS stands for ? :beguiled:

0i8u2
19-09-2015, 14:36
Is it normal to have two lines in the box in the telemetry screen now. There's the yellow line that just stays flat and now a white line that shows the forces. I have my pedals hooked up through USB instead of the wheel.
It use to have just the yellow line showing the forces. It's all working, just wondering if it's normal and what is the yellow line for.

0i8u2
19-09-2015, 14:38
Just wondering what the label under KERS stands for ? :beguiled:

At a guess I would say it's the joystick that doesn't do anything anymore.

gruzzlebeard
19-09-2015, 15:15
I was totally ignoring the names, as I aggree with you, they sound completely uninteresting from a CSW drivers view. I can further commit that the ON/OFF behaviour is as you describe. I was therefore setting all to OFF manually, before turning Advanced to OFF also, for testing.

I did feel a difference though. So I would be glad if you could verify that from your end, so I can be sure my perception was no placebo.

Thanks for for all those insights you have provided in other posts. Very interesting and informative. I appreciate the efforts you guys put into FFB tweaking a lot!

I think you are right. It's not a placedo effect. A "homeopathic dose" :D maybe. But I imagine that I feel also a little bit more comfortable when it's switched ON. Maybe a bit more precise.

Controller Input Mode: 3
Advanced: ON
- Soft Steering Dampering: ON
- Visual Wheel Filtering: ON
- Opposite Lock Help: OFF

Fong74
19-09-2015, 17:31
Thanks a lot gruzzle for cross-checking this :o Now I feel better...

A bit more precise pretty much describes it.

p.s.:
SDK - Software Development Kit - basically the amount of functions and definitions a developer can use to create a piece of software; it evolves, becomes more performant, easier to use etc; so using a current version always makes sense (except its broken) from a development perspective

Sankyo
19-09-2015, 20:10
By "they", do you mean SMS or Fanatec?

Fanatec.

Nono
19-09-2015, 20:52
what means SDK?;)

Yes, please, what is SDK ? (I'm french...) :o()

gruzzlebeard
19-09-2015, 22:34
.....

p.s.:
SDK - Software Development Kit - basically the amount of functions and definitions a developer can use to create a piece of software; it evolves, becomes more performant, easier to use etc; so using a current version always makes sense (except its broken) from a development perspective


Yes, please, what is SDK ? (I'm french...) :o()

Hi Nono look above

GrimeyDog
20-09-2015, 04:21
:yes::yes:
I was totally ignoring the names, as I aggree with you, they sound completely uninteresting from a CSW drivers view. I can further commit that the ON/OFF behaviour is as you describe. I was therefore setting all to OFF manually, before turning Advanced to OFF also, for testing.

I did feel a difference though. So I would be glad if you could verify that from your end, so I can be sure my perception was no placebo.

Thanks for for all those insights you have provided in other posts. Very interesting and informative. I appreciate the efforts you guys put into FFB tweaking a lot!

Very interesting... I've been playing with this setting tonight as well...There is for sure a Difference between of and on... Setting to Off seems to calm the center of the wheel a Tad Bit and on the wheel is a Bit more Lively... it feels good with the V2 Off or On....I've had that setting on for a while i am going to leave it Off for a bit and see what Happens. Off seems to corner smoother because I'm not dealing with a twitchy wheel center While the road feel still remains very good IMO... But its Not making a difference in lap times.

Edit: Very Very Interesting... This may have caused Me to Stumble across the Missing Link!!! More Testing is Needed to confirm this... Due to the nature of How Clipping/Soft clipping works... Ex: Clips the highest Highs and Boost the lowest lows so that all signals are within a certain range.

I Run my in game FFB Low so i don't worry about Clipping at all and the V2 wheel is very strong... Playing with this setting on and off i Noticed certain differences between On and Off Which led me to change/ Add to certain settings and get even more Road Feel and a more Stable wheel center but still keep the in game FFB at 25...Hmmmm... Still testing more to follow...:barbershop_quartet_


Edit: I Have Finally Got my XB1 wheel Hub and can confirm that My Global and In Car FFB Settings work Exactly and the Same on XB1 PCars as they do on PS4 Pcars:yes::yes::yes: For some Reason XB1 Base Global Settings are Different from PS4 but can be re programmed to the same as PS4 and its all good....Now that i Have XB1 Pcars i will Tweek for the TX wheel..This Tweeking is only is providing that i can get him off his XB1!!! LOL...i Have a TX that's already Hooked up to my sons set up...

Mascot
20-09-2015, 09:59
Fanatec.

Thanks. Since it was an SMS patch that removed the second joystick functionality (and not Fanatec magically beaming it to the game) could SMS theoretically give players the option to keep the extremely useful second joystick functionality, or lose it if they want to connect a handbrake? Like a toggle in the options, or an auto-disable if a handbrake was connected?

Is there any data on how many people actually use additional analogue handbrake hardware as opposed to simply mapping it to a button?

I'm still pretty pissed at this decision by Fanatec, but am hoping that SMS can code an option in to keep both sides happy.

gruzzlebeard
20-09-2015, 11:46
Is it normal to have two lines in the box in the telemetry screen now. There's the yellow line that just stays flat and now a white line that shows the forces. I have my pedals hooked up through USB instead of the wheel.
It use to have just the yellow line showing the forces. It's all working, just wondering if it's normal and what is the yellow line for.

This screen is corrupted and is not working for me either. Don't know if this is a PS4 issue only.

0i8u2
20-09-2015, 13:49
This screen is corrupted and is not working for me either. Don't know if this is a PS4 issue only.

Maybe it's just because there's now two inputs, from the wheel and the pedals.
Mine is working fine it's not a problem. I will try plugging the pedals back into the wheel just to see if it is because there's two inputs. I would say that's all it is, I don't think it's corrupted.

Fong74
20-09-2015, 14:06
Didnt test it since the 4.0 update on PS4. But the color of the lines represents the mixing mode. There is SW and HW mixing. I always liked HW mixing more during the beta phase tbh. Although I was told that the difference I felt was a placebo, I dont think so. HW mixing has to be different imo, as you omit one layer (SW) in the communication chain. But whatever...

Yellow = SW mixing
White = HW mixing

If one line is flat, the mode is off.

Correct me if its vice versa pls.

Sankyo
20-09-2015, 18:21
Thanks. Since it was an SMS patch that removed the second joystick functionality (and not Fanatec magically beaming it to the game) could SMS theoretically give players the option to keep the extremely useful second joystick functionality, or lose it if they want to connect a handbrake? Like a toggle in the options, or an auto-disable if a handbrake was connected?

Is there any data on how many people actually use additional analogue handbrake hardware as opposed to simply mapping it to a button?

I'm still pretty pissed at this decision by Fanatec, but am hoping that SMS can code an option in to keep both sides happy.
Again, I'm not an expert, but I guess how it works is that with the patch came an updated Fanatec SDK in which the second dpad has been removed. So SMS doesn't have the choice to support the dpad or give the option, the support of the dpad was removed in the SDK and hence it's not available to SMS to use as input.

I'm still going to ask confirmation at Fanatec so the above may or may not be the complete truth. As soon as I know more, I'll post here.

0i8u2
21-09-2015, 04:19
Didnt test it since the 4.0 update on PS4. But the color of the lines represents the mixing mode. There is SW and HW mixing. I always liked HW mixing more during the beta phase tbh. Although I was told that the difference I felt was a placebo, I dont think so. HW mixing has to be different imo, as you omit one layer (SW) in the communication chain. But whatever...

Yellow = SW mixing
White = HW mixing

If one line is flat, the mode is off.

Correct me if its vice versa pls.

Not sure what sw or hw is or how you turn it on/off, but if I plug my pedals into the wheel it goes back to single yellow line.
So I think it is just showing both USB inputs from wheel and pedals. Just the yellow line in staying flat for some reason, which I'm guessing is the brake telemetry. Should it be showing a signal when the abs rumble cuts in ?
Someone with v3 pedals should plug them in through USB and see if it shows your brake feedback.

Mascot
21-09-2015, 07:06
Again, I'm not an expert, but I guess how it works is that with the patch came an updated Fanatec SDK in which the second dpad has been removed. So SMS doesn't have the choice to support the dpad or give the option, the support of the dpad was removed in the SDK and hence it's not available to SMS to use as input.

I'm still going to ask confirmation at Fanatec so the above may or may not be the complete truth. As soon as I know more, I'll post here.

Thank you. I'll eagerly await any updates.

Fong74
21-09-2015, 12:41
Not sure what sw or hw is or how you turn it on/off, but if I plug my pedals into the wheel it goes back to single yellow line.
So I think it is just showing both USB inputs from wheel and pedals. Just the yellow line in staying flat for some reason, which I'm guessing is the brake telemetry. Should it be showing a signal when the abs rumble cuts in ?
Someone with v3 pedals should plug them in through USB and see if it shows your brake feedback.

Now we are on the same page. I was assuming you have the pedals connected to the base.

I checked telemetry yesterday with pedals connected to the base and I have one yellow line, like since v2.0. Before it was the white one which stands for HW-mixing.

I want to test the pedals connected directly to the PS4 these days. The increase on fidelity shouldnt be noticeable, but im curious, so Ill give it a try nevertheless.

0i8u2
21-09-2015, 21:02
Now we are on the same page. I was assuming you have the pedals connected to the base.

I checked telemetry yesterday with pedals connected to the base and I have one yellow line, like since v2.0. Before it was the white one which stands for HW-mixing.

I want to test the pedals connected directly to the PS4 these days. The increase on fidelity shouldnt be noticeable, but im curious, so Ill give it a try nevertheless.

Will be interesting to see if you can get telemetry reading from your pedals.
The line just stays flat on mine.
What does HW and SW mean ?

gruzzlebeard
21-09-2015, 22:03
Ok thanks, include with it info on the settings you have set on your wheel and in-game if possible to see if we can find a reason for this behavior.

Thanks Bruno,

here are two videos how the FFB is deviating from one round to the other and I think that it's because the game profile data are not correctly reloaded after changes.

You can find my standard settings in the sig for wheel & in-game by clicking on the link. For Car FFB I use the standard pre-sets "Fy+SopLateral" of Jack Spade. That was my starting point.

Then to my usual standard settings I dialed in scoop knee 0.86 and scoop reduction 0.28 and increased TF from 98 to 125. After that I tweaked further scoop values forth and back. The test went ok I did even take a video of that (what I didn't post here).

Finally I set all values back to my standards. I made a test ride and felt in the wheel that the settings didn't realy changed back. The Telemetry HUD was ok. So was it Imagination? I went back to the box and switched my wheel off & on again just to be sure that my settings are really correctly loaded. See video 1 with comments.

After that I did the same procedure and how the data went back to normal behaviors. See video 2


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVCtpzRqaFI


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbEfcWey12c

gruzzlebeard
21-09-2015, 22:13
@ Bruno

If we are already on this topic I repeat my post from mid of July again. I've got a a message that this has been forwarded to the dev team but I've never seen this topic in an official statement or on a patch planning or known issue threat.

This time starting point was in the Car FFB settings but beside that absolutly the same behavior just without switching the wheel off & on but changing a setting forth and back instead and saving the settings again. After that the original behavior was back.



I tested spindle and SOP all the way up and down without getting this nice subtle amplitudes shown in GrimeyDogs video.

After 5 hours I adjusted the settings back to my standard settings. Suddenly the whole range of FFB was there it was amazing to feel first time a real FFB- see my first video.

But after going back to Edit Tuning Set-up and then back to track I lost all the subtle FFB again. It seems that this was a one-off result maybe caused by a FFB error in the game. With these settings I've never got before neither later such nice amplitudes and feedback on the wheel.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Vyp1d6XP2o

Compare the the amplitudes in the beginning and after the pit-stop. At 1:20 I made the change forth and back.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmqswVN9evE

I changed just one setting but adjusted it directly back to the previous value and saved the same settings like before. But the FFB was lost and I was up to now not able to get it back with the same settings.

Fortunately I recorded everything in the second video.


BTW today I would not say anymore that this feedback is nice and subtile. It's actually a grinding effect wich comes in the game due to incomplete or strange savings in the game profile. Just my 2 cents.

gruzzlebeard
21-09-2015, 22:57
@ bruno

If we are already on this topic. Yesterday I've got an issue with maybe also the same root cause. Accidentially I activated the "Opposite Lock Help" (ON instead OFF) in the controls tab.

Of course I realized that immediately when I was on the track - the counter steering was quite noticeable. So I switched this off. But back on track I was not able to get rid of this counter steering anymore. Even worse when driving slow e.g. exit pit lane the wheel heavily steered and oscillated to the left immediatelly. Stopped and turned wheel slowly to the right the same behavior and shake on the right side. Driving fast the shaking stopped but the counter steering started again. I took all counter measuers to get the things in sync again but nothing helped. After one day I've overwritten my game profile data with my 3 days old data from the cloud. This helped immediatelly and it works now again.

Actually I recorded the whole procedure. 10 videos - wanna see? ;) If you're interested I can send them via email or download path.

I tested with the RUF GT3 solo on Watkins Glen like videos above, I tested Zolder in solo sessions, I tested Multiplayer and TT. Nothing helped.

Just if you ask. I have already deleted my game and reinstalled in June/July because of the same behaviour. I have deleted my game profil ca 10-15 times. I have only one game beside Pcars installed. A second runs on CD. I still have lots of free disc capacity. I did a defragmentation which takes ca. 3 minutes. And no I have no issues with other games :D.

Bruno Alexandre
22-09-2015, 08:55
Thanks Bruno,

here are two videos how the FFB is deviating from one round to the other and I think that it's because the game profile data are not correctly reloaded after changes.

You can find my standard settings in the sig for wheel & in-game by clicking on the link. For Car FFB I use the standard pre-sets "Fy+SopLateral" of Jack Spade. That was my starting point.

Then to my usual standard settings I dialed in scoop knee 0.86 and scoop reduction 0.28 and increased TF from 98 to 125. After that I tweaked further scoop values forth and back. The test went ok I did even take a video of that (what I didn't post here).

Finally I set all values back to my standards. I made a test ride and felt in the wheel that the settings didn't realy changed back. The Telemetry HUD was ok. So was it Imagination? I went back to the box and switched my wheel off & on again just to be sure that my settings are really correctly loaded. See video 1 with comments.

After that I did the same procedure and how the data went back to normal behaviors. See video 2


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVCtpzRqaFI


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbEfcWey12c
Thanks for the video i will pass it along to our guys for them to analyse it.


@ bruno

If we are already on this topic. Yesterday I've got an issue with maybe also the same root cause. Accidentially I activated the "Opposite Lock Help" (ON instead OFF) in the controls tab.

Of course I realized that immediately when I was on the track - the counter steering was quite noticeable. So I switched this off. But back on track I was not able to get rid of this counter steering anymore. Even worse when driving slow e.g. exit pit lane the wheel heavily steered and oscillated to the left immediatelly. Stopped and turned wheel slowly to the right the same behavior and shake on the right side. Driving fast the shaking stopped but the counter steering started again. I took all counter measuers to get the things in sync again but nothing helped. After one day I've overwritten my game profile data with my 3 days old data from the cloud. This helped immediatelly and it works now again.

Actually I recorded the whole procedure. 10 videos - wanna see? ;) If you're interested I can send them via email or download path.

I tested with the RUF GT3 solo on Watkins Glen like videos above, I tested Zolder in solo sessions, I tested Multiplayer and TT. Nothing helped.

Just if you ask. I have already deleted my game and reinstalled in June/July because of the same behaviour. I have deleted my game profil ca 10-15 times. I have only one game beside Pcars installed. A second runs on CD. I still have lots of free disc capacity. I did a defragmentation which takes ca. 3 minutes. And no I have no issues with other games :D.
Yes that's a different issue which was reported to us where the gamepad advanced tab somehow is messing up with the wheels if changed.

Hotty
22-09-2015, 13:52
Hallo Gruzzlebeard!
You have set DRF to 0.001,in Ingame Menue it shows only 0, 0.01, 0.02....how did you set this? I drive withe your
Wheel and Ingame Settings and Jake Spades Bump Plus FFB Files and it feels perfect on Csw V2.Gredding from Germany
(Hessen)����

GrimeyDog
22-09-2015, 15:34
Thanks for the video i will pass it along to our guys for them to analyse it.


Yes that's a different issue which was reported to us where the gamepad advanced tab somehow is messing up with the wheels if changed.


Titzontoast this is what i was tryingbto tell you the other day!!! Note "the Gamepad advanced tab" Exactly but GrimeyDog dont know Nuthin... LOL

GrimeyDog
22-09-2015, 15:52
Thanks for the video i will pass it along to our guys for them to analyse it.


Yes that's a different issue which was reported to us where the gamepad advanced tab somehow is messing up with the wheels if changed.

With the V2 I've Noticed a Difference with the Advanced settings on... its Not really a Bad Difference the center of the wheel Feels More active with it on but gives Great Road Feel..... When i set it to Off the center of the Wheel is Calmer and that allows me to turn up other settings up and Still Have Great Road Feel in the Center of the Wheel with No Grinding /Juddering feel in the wheels center!!!
Ive been Running My in game FFB 25 and TF 98 the Feel is Very Good... No Grinding and the V2 wheel FFB is also Very Strong Running Low in Game FFB... im going to Raise the FFB and Tire Force to 100 and see how it Feels now that i have turned the advanced controller Setting Off....the V2 Feels good with it on but i am going to test to see what it feels like with Advanced Off and 100% in Game FFB to see if the Feel gets even better!!! With a Good FFB Tweek PCars Feels Great!

gruzzlebeard
22-09-2015, 17:13
Hallo Gruzzlebeard!
You have set DRF to 0.001,in Ingame Menue it shows only 0, 0.01, 0.02....how did you set this? I drive withe your
Wheel and Ingame Settings and Jake Spades Bump Plus FFB Files and it feels perfect on Csw V2.Gredding from Germany
(Hessen)����

Hi Hotty,

go all along to the left till the end. Then one click to the right. The UI shows still value 0.00 but in reallity it's an increment of 0.001 (.........0.00.........0.01.........0.02...)

Cheers from Stuttgart

gruzzlebeard
22-09-2015, 17:23
With the V2 I've Noticed a Difference with the Advanced settings on... its Not really a Bad Difference the center of the wheel Feels More active with it on but gives Great Road Feel..... When i set it to Off the center of the Wheel is Calmer and that allows me to turn up other settings up and Still Have Great Road Feel in the Center of the Wheel with No Grinding /Juddering feel in the wheels center!!!
Ive been Running My in game FFB 25 and TF 98 the Feel is Very Good... No Grinding and the V2 wheel FFB is also Very Strong Running Low in Game FFB... im going to Raise the FFB and Tire Force to 100 and see how it Feels now that i have turned the advanced controller Setting Off....the V2 Feels good with it on but i am going to test to see what it feels like with Advanced Off and 100% in Game FFB to see if the Feel gets even better!!! With a Good FFB Tweek PCars Feels Great!

It's not a big difference.

I'm going to test lower FFB & TF soon. just about to finish some test with DR, Scoop and PWM :p

Titzon Toast
22-09-2015, 18:23
Titzontoast this is what i was tryingbto tell you the other day!!! Note "the Gamepad advanced tab" Exactly but GrimeyDog dont know Nuthin... LOL


218734

218735

That's what I was talking about the other night Grimey.
Switching Advanced to OFF merely locks the ability to alter the two settings below it.
Setting it to ON lets you disable them.
I don't know what you're talking about man.

Hotty
22-09-2015, 18:40
It's not a big difference.

I'm going to test lower FFB & TF soon. just about to finish some test with DR, Scoop and PWM :p

Hi!
look forward to it .Thanks for your work,have you test your Settings with Jake Spades Bump Plus Files,
for me it works perfect,great Road,Bump and Kerbs Feeling without Clipping.Gredding Hotty
Test it with Formula Gulf or Caterham SP300 on Oulton Park International just a lot of Fun
;):rolleyes:

GrimeyDog
22-09-2015, 19:23
218734

218735

That's what I was talking about the other night Grimey.
Switching Advanced to OFF merely locks the ability to alter the two settings below it.
Setting it to ON lets you disable them.
I don't know what you're talking about man.

Once you turn the setting Off you turn Off Everything within that setting... With the V2 there is Clearly a Difference with it set to on and with it set to Off... Different wheels react different to setting changes so you may or may not be able to feel it. Nothing big just thought i would point you to the Devs comment where he said it was a controller based setting... that's what i was saying the other night... Nope but grimey dont know nothin... LOL:confused:

Titzon Toast
22-09-2015, 19:43
Once you turn the setting Off you turn Off Everything within that setting... With the V2 there is Clearly a Difference with it set to on and with it set to Off... Different wheels react different to setting changes so you may or may not be able to feel it. Nothing big just thought i would point you to the Devs comment where he said it was a controller based setting... that's what i was saying the other night... Nope but grimey dont know nothin... LOL:confused:

Did you not look at the two pictures I posted?
Switching it to OFF locks them to on.
It's as plain as day on the screen in front of you man.

GrimeyDog
22-09-2015, 19:56
Did you not look at the two pictures I posted?
Switching it to OFF locks them to on.
It's as plain as day on the screen in front of you man.:no::no::no:

Nope... once you turn it to Off its like all the other masters in the game set to 0...its off with No output even if the settings within it are on or set to high levels... off = Off... and im not the only 1 who notices a diff between setting that off and turning it on even if the difference is slight its still there:yes::yes::yes:

GrimeyDog
23-09-2015, 01:14
It's not a big difference.

I'm going to test lower FFB & TF soon. just about to finish some test with DR, Scoop and PWM :p


Turning that Advanced setting Off Has made a Big Difference!!! The wheel Center is Very calm while still having great Road feel...Because i Ran the in game FFB at 25 i never had any grinding feel but the center of the wheel FFB could be very Brutal at times!!! The center FFB would vibrate my LCD screen Noticeably some times that's why i always used FFB 75% on the wheel... I now use 80% on wheel FFB and i run in game FFB at close to 100... Feels very well balanced with same Power and Great Road Feel and No Clipping but i don't have to fight with the center of the wheel and its not Twitchy at all... I"m still doing test... I am Now Doing my Heat test to see what temp the wheel runs because of the Much Higher FFB input...Sooo far sooo Good... its 79*F in my man kave and the wheel is at 95*F to 100*F and that's 5 degrees cooler than it was running with in game FFB at 25!!!.... my best guess is the Advanced settings soft clipping must be boosting the FFB some how to keep the FFB signals within spec range... other than that idunno :confused:

GrimeyDog
23-09-2015, 01:57
With my Re-adjusted settings because of the Smoother Wheel center Feel I am Running Much more consistent faster laps!!! I have just beaten my LMP1 Watkins Glen GP time and wasn't even trying to do so!!! LOL Too Bad it was in the practice screen...Edit: and i had 10 laps(37 gals) worth of fuel in both cars compared to the 5gals for time trial tracks... its better than i thought!!!... I also beat my fastest lap in the Ruf RGT-8 GT3!!! The cars were stock and un-tuned Not even Aero added...IMO they don't feel like they need tuning with a Good wheel Tweek.

When i read the Advanced settings post the other day based on what i read when I played with that setting i could feel there could be Tweek progress made it was in fact the Missing Link for my FFB Taste:yes:

also after those 8 laps here is the V2 wheel temp... before the LMP1 laps i did i dunno how many laps in the Ruf and the wheel is still running cooler than my last settings... room temp 79*F

-Brick_Top-
23-09-2015, 12:01
Can't wait to try the latest tweek

GrimeyDog
23-09-2015, 13:24
Can't wait to try the latest tweek

Same Power, Same Road Feel But Much Much Smoother!!! The Center of the Wheel FFB comes in Smoother....I was able to go back to my original Formula and Mathematically Balance all the Forces to balance out when they interact.... Feels good to Me...

Put the check in the Mail!!! LOL

-Brick_Top-
23-09-2015, 17:25
Same Power, Same Road Feel But Much Much Smoother!!! The Center of the Wheel FFB comes in Smoother....I was able to go back to my original Formula and Mathematically Balance all the Forces to balance out when they interact.... Feels good to Me...

Put the check in the Mail!!! LOL
Told you before bud give me ya PayPal and there's a bottle of brandy or 2 with us name on it

faddish
23-09-2015, 19:33
I am using a t300 with a basherboards CPX adapter for CSP v1 on project cars - the issue I have is that the clutch pedal is not recognized nor can I map it to the pedal. Any suggestions?

Mascot
23-09-2015, 19:42
Do recommended CSW FFB settings translate directly to the CSRE?

Sankyo
23-09-2015, 20:38
Do recommended CSW FFB settings translate directly to the CSRE?

For the on-wheel and basic FFB settings yes, for the car-specific settings it will probably be close to the CSW v1 settings.

TakMan
24-09-2015, 12:37
I also tried turning the 'Advanced Controller' setting to OFF (CSW-V2) as Grimey suggested.

It has all but eliminated the (sometimes quite violent), wheel centre oscillations and made the whole thing feel smoother and more natural whilst retaining plenty of subtle feedback.

I double checked the FFB telemetry for undue clipping and that looked OK as well - occasional clipping at the top when hitting big kerbs but I think that is OK...?

I now have the in-game FFB and TF settings at 100 and I'm experimenting with Spade's '66% SopLateral' settings.

I'm running the v219 driver on the wheelbase (with Universal hub for PC/PS4 and the GT rim). Wheel FFB is 80 (I might go slightly higher) and things are good so far (Ginetta G40 Junior, Ruf RGT-8 GT3 - as recommended by Jack Spade for testing, Caterham Seven Classic), all on Oulton Park (still not even started career mode yet!)
Wheel Profile: SEN: AUT | FF: 80 | SHo: 100 | ABS: OFF | Lin: OFF | Dea: OFF | Dri: OFF | For: 100 | Spr: 100 | Dpr: 100 | Brf (or whatever it's called?): 30 - already set

For others reference, I'm using the CSP V-3 (with whatever driver came with them) and 2 dampers. I'm getting excellent (but subtle) feedback from both the rumble motors attached to the brake and accelerator pedals.

Damian

One question (I thought this had been resolved), when changing (Spade's in car settings), I cant always hit say 135 - I can get to 134 or 136? Some also have say 180.1 - I can't get rid of the .1 !!!!!) Any suggestions?
The game is up to date on the PS4 as well.

GrimeyDog
24-09-2015, 16:20
I Noticed With the Advanced setting Off you if you play with the Scoup Knee Settings you can Really Feel the Effects of what it doe's... Very Nice im working on New Scoup Knee Settings Now and it Feels better than ever.
when im done with those i will play with the Body settings and see what happens.

faddish
24-09-2015, 19:17
I am using a t300 with a basherboards CPX adapter for CSP v1 on project cars - the issue I have is that the clutch pedal is not recognized nor can I map it to the pedal. Any suggestions?

Anyone??

Solodan
25-09-2015, 14:31
I am using a t300 with a basherboards CPX adapter for CSP v1 on project cars - the issue I have is that the clutch pedal is not recognized nor can I map it to the pedal. Any suggestions?

Anyone??

U could try to connect the CSP via USB, supported since last patch. Hope it helps.

Raikku
27-09-2015, 18:08
Have to say that I don't get my CSW2 to feel good, no matter what I do. Even when I lower basic forces to 25 and tire force 95 and use 24/26 in car, forces are already too strong and make
steering difficult. I have same problem with GSC on pc-side, have started to suspect if there's something wrong in wheel itself. Also forces in pCars are very violent now, not smooth, more
like hitting force.

GrimeyDog
27-09-2015, 18:20
Turn down the on wheel and FOR settings on your V2 wheel.
FFB controls the Wheel Weight and FFB Strength.
FOR cuts down the Forces you Feel within the FFB. Curbs, Bumps, Jolts ETC.

Raikku
27-09-2015, 18:35
Of course, but you shouldn't have to use wheel's settings for ffb and force. They should just be at 100 and you should be able to dial everything from game/sim.
And earlier feel in pCars was different than now after these all updates.

GrimeyDog
27-09-2015, 19:09
Of course, but you shouldn't have to use wheel's settings for ffb and force. They should just be at 100 and you should be able to dial everything from game/sim.
And earlier feel in pCars was different than now after these all updates.

That information is out dated and Obsolete... Do you think they put these features on the New wheels Not to be Used??? My V2 Has Beautiful FFB i can feel.everything the Car is Doing... I use 75% on wheel FFB by doing that it also allows me the option to turn the FFB on wheel up if i feel a Cars Steering is too Light... you just Need a Good FFB Tweek.

Sankyo
27-09-2015, 19:23
Have to say that I don't get my CSW2 to feel good, no matter what I do. Even when I lower basic forces to 25 and tire force 95 and use 24/26 in car, forces are already too strong and make
steering difficult. I have same problem with GSC on pc-side, have started to suspect if there's something wrong in wheel itself. Also forces in pCars are very violent now, not smooth, more
like hitting force.
24/26 Master Spindle Scale (which is what you're referring to I guess) is too much for the CSW v2, you'll have to lower it to around 20.



That information is out dated and Obsolete... Do you think they put these features on the New wheels Not to be Used??? My V2 Has Beautiful FFB i can feel.everything the Car is Doing... I use 75% on wheel FFB by doing that it also allows me the option to turn the FFB on wheel up if i feel a Cars Steering is too Light... you just Need a Good FFB Tweek.
The point is though that you shouldn't adjust the wheel FFB strength when the in-game FFB settings make the FFB clip. Turning down the wheel FFB does not make clipping go away, you have to solve that in the game. Once the FFB doesn't clip anymore, you can choose to lower the FFB force on the wheel if it's still too strong.

GrimeyDog
27-09-2015, 19:56
24/26 Master Spindle Scale (which is what you're referring to I guess) is too much for the CSW v2, you'll have to lower it to around 20.



The point is though that you shouldn't adjust the wheel FFB strength when the in-game FFB settings make the FFB clip. Turning down the wheel FFB does not make clipping go away, you have to solve that in the game. Once the FFB doesn't clip anymore, you can choose to lower the FFB force on the wheel if it's still too strong.

Since i Have Turned off the Advanced Settings i Now Run in Game FFB 100 and Tire Force 100.... i set my in car Masters 100 and the settings within those masters to where they feel good to me... No Clipping...

Ive learned some New Tweek Tricks within the Global Settings.... Turning the Advanced tab off was Majic... JMO I think the soft Clipping in that setting Really Has a Huge impact on wheels.

Sankyo
28-09-2015, 07:09
Since i Have Turned off the Advanced Settings i Now Run in Game FFB 100 and Tire Force 100.... i set my in car Masters 100 and the settings within those masters to where they feel good to me... No Clipping...

Ive learned some New Tweek Tricks within the Global Settings.... Turning the Advanced tab off was Majic... JMO I think the soft Clipping in that setting Really Has a Huge impact on wheels.
Not sure if PS4 and PC can be compared w.r.t. FFB settings, so we should be careful about giving advice there. On PC, running TF = 100 and MSC = 100 will have you to turn the Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz forces down to ~20-ish values to prevent clipping. MSC =100 and Fx/Fy/Fz/Mz at the default 100 value will give totally clipping FFB on PC.