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2stains
28-09-2015, 07:44
G Dogs settings will kill my wheel in 2 minutes if i was to use them as he suggests.

Sankyo
28-09-2015, 07:45
G Dogs settings will kill my wheel in 2 minutes if i was to use them as he suggests.

He always said that he likes his FFB strong :)

2stains
28-09-2015, 07:50
The csw must be strong and he must be the Hulk.

Titzon Toast
28-09-2015, 09:54
I tried some out some new settings the other night and my Turbo-S feels great with them.
Tyre Force 100
FFB 100
Gain 1.0
Spindle & SOP masters @ 26.
Then I just use the Fy,Fz,Fx,Mz, Diff & Latt parameters to get the wheel feeling just right per car.

GrimeyDog
28-09-2015, 15:36
Not sure if PS4 and PC can be compared w.r.t. FFB settings, so we should be careful about giving advice there. On PC, running TF = 100 and MSC = 100 will have you to turn the Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz forces down to ~20-ish values to prevent clipping. MSC =100 and Fx/Fy/Fz/Mz at the default 100 value will give totally clipping FFB on PC.

Agreed the Highest setting within my in Car FFB Masters is 30...Except for the FWD cars like the Clio Cup ...the wheel feels light so i add to the Fy to give it more weight and Feel.... its just tooo many ways to Tweek with same or Very Similar Results... Wheel feels Great but i keep tweeking looking for the ultimate Setting....

On PS4 Ive Finally encountered Gruzzle Beards Problem where the FFB changed and i Had to Delete the game and Start Fresh... It was only on Certain tracks though... Watkins Glenn GP felt beautiful same FFB as always but Hockenheim the FFB was Way Off... After Re-installation the FFB on Hockenheim was Back to the Norm... Very Strange...i looked to at the Change log to see if thats a Track they made Changes to but didnt Notice it if it was in the List.

I also Loaded up XB1 PCars to Check and the Tracks i tested FFB (Watkins Glenn GP, Hockenheim Ring a few others) was Normal with my tweek... But the Difference is i did Not Have PCars installed to the XB1 before update 4.0

Great Game when its working Right... Maybe before each Patch i will Delete the Game and do a Fresh install... Cant Hurt... welll Hopefully Not....I still have my Career Progress i just down loaded it back from the Cloud game save.

killer2293
28-09-2015, 15:53
Grimey, I use your FFB PDF to try and get the FFB you show on videos. When I apply your settings, I get zero FFB. So I reset and try again and zero FFB. Do you think I should reinstall the game on the PS4?

I appreciate the work all of you guys do...it makes the game much more enjoyable for guys like me with kids and little gameplay time. So Thank You!

GrimeyDog
28-09-2015, 16:44
Grimey, I use your FFB PDF to try and get the FFB you show on videos. When I apply your settings, I get zero FFB. So I reset and try again and zero FFB. Do you think I should reinstall the game on the PS4?

I appreciate the work all of you guys do...it makes the game much more enjoyable for guys like me with kids and little gameplay time. So Thank You!

What wheel are you using??? It makes a Difference... if its Not the V2 some settings will have to be cut Down.... LOL... i Have Kids and a Wife... Sim Racing is how i Relax so i dont Blow My Stack on them... LOL

Sum Dixon-Ear
28-09-2015, 16:53
Grimey, I use your FFB PDF to try and get the FFB you show on videos. When I apply your settings, I get zero FFB. So I reset and try again and zero FFB. Do you think I should reinstall the game on the PS4?

I appreciate the work all of you guys do...it makes the game much more enjoyable for guys like me with kids and little gameplay time. So Thank You!

If you make any in game changes to FFB, reboot and reconnect your wheel immediately afterwards... sometimes changing parameters results in total FFB loss. The FFB system is flakier than a psoriasis sufferer's pillow.

killer2293
28-09-2015, 20:45
I am using CSW V2. Should I reboot the wheel itself or the game and the wheel?

Sum Dixon-Ear
28-09-2015, 22:22
Usually just powering down the wheel and reconnecting does the trick, however sometimes the game gets it's panties in such a bunch that it refuses to recognise the wheel at all and needs a full restart. I use the CSR Elite and this also applies to other multi-platform Fanatec wheel users that I know of. It may well be different for CSW users but that's what I need to do when FFB disappears.

GrimeyDog
29-09-2015, 01:12
Since i have cut the Advanced settings tab to Off I've been tweeking around with the you should use 100% in game FFB theory...soo far what i've noticed is that with my Old setting and keeping the Advanced Tab turned on and using 25% in game FFB ~VS~ the Advanced tab being off and using 100% in game FFB is that there is No Real Power Difference in the V2 wheel by using 100% FFB...In Fact i find that 100% in game FFB Gives less Detailed Road Feel than a lower in game FFB setting... I Reduced the In Game FFB to the same level as the Relative Adjust Clamp and the Feel Road Feel is Much better.

One major +:yes: about turning the Advanced settings tab off is the the Center of the Wheel FFB is Not so Harsh anymore its Much Smoother while still providing the same Great Road Feel... (I think the center of the wheel harshness has alot to do with the soft clipping setting within the Advanced settings tab Not Facts JMO)

I will post 3 videos tomorrow A,B,C i want to see can any 1 tell the diff between in game 25% FFB, 100% FFB and Advanced setting with soft clipping on... they all Feel really close same and similar... and again No Real Power Diff between 25% & 100% in game FFB with the V2 wheel and all cars running the same in car FFB settings... More to follow its bed time tonight.

gotdirt410sprintcar
29-09-2015, 06:00
I need help or something, I now there is new drivers for all wheels how do I get them on the wheel. I have a gt3rs I have had it hooked up to the pc so I know how to do that lol. The rest need help on thanks to someone

Sum Dixon-Ear
29-09-2015, 09:00
I need help or something, I now there is new drivers for all wheels how do I get them on the wheel. I have a gt3rs I have had it hooked up to the pc so I know how to do that lol. The rest need help on thanks to someone

You don't put the drivers on the wheel itself, they install onto your PC. Firmware versions are the only thing that ever gets installed to the wheel.

cartosco
29-09-2015, 10:42
Hi,

I've read that lastest patch 4.0 for PCars allows to connect CSP through USB directly.
I've T300RS Wheel for play on PS4 platform. Can I connect Fanatec ClubSport V3 pedals directly through USB for use in combination with my actual T300RS Wheel over PS4?

Sankyo
29-09-2015, 11:53
Hi,

I've read that lastest patch 4.0 for PCars allows to connect CSP through USB directly.
I've T300RS Wheel for play on PS4 platform. Can I connect Fanatec ClubSport V3 pedals directly through USB for use in combination with my actual T300RS Wheel over PS4?
No, it only works in combination with a Fanatec wheel.

cartosco
29-09-2015, 12:06
Even connecting directly to PS4 over USB with the latest patch 4.0?? Then, why the patch release notes said that?

Sum Dixon-Ear
29-09-2015, 12:19
Even connecting directly to PS4 over USB with the latest patch 4.0?? Then, why the patch release notes said that?

The patch notes don't say that CSPs are supported by other wheel manufacturers via USB though, there is just an entry under 'Fanatec' stating that CSP USB support has been added.

cartosco
29-09-2015, 12:45
The patch notes don't say that CSPs are supported by other wheel manufacturers via USB though, there is just an entry under 'Fanatec' stating that CSP USB support has been added.

I don't understand why CSPs V3 needs a Fanatec wheel if they can be conected directly to PS4 through USB, they should be independent of any wheel you connect to the other PS4 USB port.
Fanatec says that it works on PC:

PC (Connection through USB):
Compatible with any racing wheel from Fanatec or any other brand (Logitech, Thrustmaster, etc) if used on PC.

Console compatibility (Playstation 3, Playstation 4, Xbox 360, Xbox One, etc.):
Please check the information on the product page of the Fanatec Racing Wheel or Wheel Base to which the pedals will be connected.

why not over PS4? It's a PCars limitation? PS4 SDK limitation?




Thanks in advance

Mascot
29-09-2015, 13:37
Any news about us Formula Rim users getting our second joystick back from the clutches of that one bloke who uses a handbrake?

Sankyo
29-09-2015, 13:37
I don't understand why CSPs V3 needs a Fanatec wheel if they can be conected directly to PS4 through USB, they should be independent of any wheel you connect to the other PS4 USB port.
Fanatec says that it works on PC:

PC (Connection through USB):
Compatible with any racing wheel from Fanatec or any other brand (Logitech, Thrustmaster, etc) if used on PC.

Console compatibility (Playstation 3, Playstation 4, Xbox 360, Xbox One, etc.):
Please check the information on the product page of the Fanatec Racing Wheel or Wheel Base to which the pedals will be connected.

why not over PS4? It's a PCars limitation? PS4 SDK limitation?




Thanks in advance

It's an SDK limitation.

Titzon Toast
29-09-2015, 13:44
Any news about us Formula Rim users getting our second joystick back from the clutches of that one bloke who uses a handbrake?

Ian Bell and Savoury love their handbrake far too much to relent I'm afraid.
Don't mind Savoury giving out publicly on here, it's a smoke screen.

cartosco
29-09-2015, 14:46
It's an SDK limitation.

Arggg :( .Do you know if there's any PS4 SDK update release scheduled? Probably they support this feature in the future or we can send a formal request to PS4 SDK Dev Team to support it.... I dont know if it's possible
I'll purchase CSPv3 but I've T300RS wheel... I'm now thinking what is the best solution... play on PC and not in PS4?

Thanks anyway

Sum Dixon-Ear
29-09-2015, 15:14
Ian Bell and Savoury love their handbrake far too much to relent I'm afraid.
Don't mind Savoury giving out publicly on here, it's a smoke screen.

Keep yer hair on Titty... as I told you before, it's not my fault that you misread the patch notes and got all excited looking for a second-hand Elite because you thought you could now attach your handbag to it.

gotdirt410sprintcar
29-09-2015, 17:03
You don't put the drivers on the wheel itself, they install onto your PC. Firmware versions are the only thing that ever gets installed to the wheel. Thanks I kind of new that but was not sure thanks again

FACT0RY PIL0T
29-09-2015, 17:13
Is this wheel supported for PS4?
Fanatec Porsche Carerra EU looks the same as gt2 wheels

Sankyo
29-09-2015, 18:13
Is this wheel supported for PS4?
Fanatec Porsche Carerra EU looks the same as gt2 wheels
Not sure, I'd have to ask the devs. For sure they didn't have it for testing, and for sure it's nowhere near the same as a GT2 wheel. Are you looking to buy one?

madmax2069
29-09-2015, 18:50
Arggg :( .Do you know if there's any PS4 SDK update release scheduled? Probably they support this feature in the future or we can send a formal request to PS4 SDK Dev Team to support it.... I dont know if it's possible
I'll purchase CSPv3 but I've T300RS wheel... I'm now thinking what is the best solution... play on PC and not in PS4?

Thanks anyway

I do believe they're talking about Fanatecs SDK, not PS4s SDK (I could be wrong).

FACT0RY PIL0T
29-09-2015, 21:54
Not sure, I'd have to ask the devs. For sure they didn't have it for testing, and for sure it's nowhere near the same as a GT2 wheel. Are you looking to buy one?

Yeah i have one locally for sale, barely used and it looks like my broken gt2's
219338

Sankyo
30-09-2015, 07:47
Yeah i have one locally for sale, barely used and it looks like my broken gt2's
219338
Looks like it yes, but it's not the same. It's Fanatec's (discontinued) budget wheel, most notable difference is that it doesn't have a belt drive but a straightforward gear drive. Might work well enough with some tinkering of the Fanatec GT2 profile in pCARS, though.

GrimeyDog
01-10-2015, 11:17
Ok... after 2 weeks of testing the 100% in game FFB theory on PS4 and XB1 with the V2 wheel i find that in Game 100% FFB Doe's Not Feel better or Provide More Wheel Power... In Fact using my Setting i get Less Road Feel and Weight Transfer Feel with 100% in Game FFB.

The PS4 i can Run 100% in Game FFB but i Loose Subtle Road Feel so their is No Positive Gain or advantage.

The XB1 using 100% in game FFB this setting absolutely will Not work for Me and the Wheel feels Horrible.

With My 25% in Game FFB Tweek i can use the Same Exact Global and In Car FFB settings on PS4 and XB1 with the V2 wheel and the Cars Feel Great and Drive the Same with the Same FFB Telemetry! the Wheel Power is also the Same and I dont have to Change any on Wheel Settings Either!!!

So after 2 weeks of testing My conclusion is back to 25% in Game FFB... For Me with my Tweek it Has the Best Road Feel and Same Power as 100% in Game FFB and all the Forces are Sharp and Crisp.

The Advanced Settings Tab Turned Off the Wheel Center is Calmer/ Smoother and the FFB Seems to be more Linar.

With the Advanced Settings Tab set to ON the FFB is Crisper and the Wheel center is Not as Smooth but it adds to the Road Feel.

All Cars were tested using Same in Car FFB and Same Global Settings...IMO i treat the In Game FFB like a Volume Control on a Radio... I Set it High until i Start to get distortion then turn it Down until Distortion Stops... I see FFB the Same way turn it up until you get Clipping and Start Loosing Road Feel then Back it Down until you find a Sweet Spot... Just my personal theory and Method of Tweeking FFB. There are many Methods of Tweeking the FFB and No one way is Right for all this is just My method that works best for Me.

gruzzlebeard
01-10-2015, 12:47
Ok... after 2 weeks of testing the 100% in game FFB theory on PS4 and XB1 with the V2 wheel i find that in Game 100% FFB Doe's Not Feel better or Provide More Wheel Power... In Fact using my Setting i get Less Road Feel and Weight Transfer Feel with 100% in Game FFB.

The PS4 i can Run 100% in Game FFB but i Loose Subtle Road Feel so their is No Positive Gain or advantage.

The XB1 using 100% in game FFB this setting absolutely will Not work for Me and the Wheel feels Horrible.

With My 25% in Game FFB Tweek i can use the Same Exact Global and In Car FFB settings on PS4 and XB1 with the V2 wheel and the Cars Feel Great and Drive the Same with the Same FFB Telemetry! the Wheel Power is also the Same and I dont have to Change any on Wheel Settings Either!!!

So after 2 weeks of testing My conclusion is back to 25% in Game FFB... For Me with my Tweek it Has the Best Road Feel and Same Power as 100% in Game FFB and all the Forces are Sharp and Crisp.

The Advanced Settings Tab Turned Off the Wheel Center is Calmer/ Smoother and the FFB Seems to be more Linar.

With the Advanced Settings Tab set to ON the FFB is Crisper and the Wheel center is Not as Smooth but it adds to the Road Feel.

All Cars were tested using Same in Car FFB and Same Global Settings...IMO i treat the In Game FFB like a Volume Control on a Radio... I Set it High until i Start to get distortion then turn it Down until Distortion Stops... I see FFB the Same way turn it up until you get Clipping and Start Loosing Road Feel then Back it Down until you find a Sweet Spot... Just my personal theory and Method of Tweeking FFB. There are many Methods of Tweeking the FFB and No one way is Right for all this is just My method that works best for Me.

Hi GrimeyDog, thanks for sharing this. With your sentence "I see FFB the Same way turn it up..." do you really mean FFB or do you mean TF or Masterscale?

Sankyo
01-10-2015, 12:52
Hi GrimeyDog, thanks for sharing this. With your sentence "I see FFB the Same way turn it up..." do you really mean FFB or do you mean TF or Masterscale?
I'm not Grimey, but it applies to any of those, and you choose which to adjust depending on what you're trying to achieve. The overall FFB strength will increase/decrease all FFB effects at the same time. Adjusting only TF will change the contribution of the tyres to the FFB while leaving the other effects unaffected, i.e. it changes the total FFB output but also the balance of the FFB effects. Same with Master Scale, it also takes a subset of the FFB forces but then only for the specific car you're tuning, and with that the overall FFB output and the balance of FFB effects for that particular car.

GrimeyDog
01-10-2015, 13:15
Hi GrimeyDog, thanks for sharing this. With your sentence "I see FFB the Same way turn it up..." do you really mean FFB or do you mean TF or Masterscale?

Well explained...I Agree with Remco

Im Mean just the FFB... I see Tire Force more as a Constant Effect... IE: Wheel weight and such.... The FFB controles the Forces you feel within the TF/ Constant Wheel Weight.... and the in in Car FFB turns up the Volume on the FFB effects you want to Feel most.

It seems to me that in Game FFB is a Volume control for In Car FFB and the Global Settings work as a Volume control for the TF but also work to blend all forces together as 1... Just my theory

To Me the Relative adjust settings Have the Biggest impact on the overal FFB Feeling...Once you get a Good base setting for those finding the FFB Feel thats best for you will be easy... the default Scoop settings are ok to start with and for me i didn't need to change them much.

Im at work posting from my phone so Pardon my Edititing... lol

vahagn_hayk
01-10-2015, 20:52
hi all, new user to PS4 console and have a Fanatec CSW V2 + CSP V2 setup, would like to ask this great community have heard so much of, to help setup and dial in FFB for my hardware, suggestions and recommendations? settings?

thank you all for your hard work, if there are any tests I can do to provide results with, let me know.

HeHa
01-10-2015, 21:56
The weight of the car now shows up in the HUD. I'm not even joking!

Yes I am.


Thanks Bruno,

here are two videos how the FFB is deviating from one round to the other and I think that it's because the game profile data are not correctly reloaded after changes.

You can find my standard settings in the sig for wheel & in-game by clicking on the link. For Car FFB I use the standard pre-sets "Fy+SopLateral" of Jack Spade. That was my starting point.

Then to my usual standard settings I dialed in scoop knee 0.86 and scoop reduction 0.28 and increased TF from 98 to 125. After that I tweaked further scoop values forth and back. The test went ok I did even take a video of that (what I didn't post here).

Finally I set all values back to my standards. I made a test ride and felt in the wheel that the settings didn't realy changed back. The Telemetry HUD was ok. So was it Imagination? I went back to the box and switched my wheel off & on again just to be sure that my settings are really correctly loaded. See video 1 with comments.

After that I did the same procedure and how the data went back to normal behaviors. See video 2


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVCtpzRqaFI


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbEfcWey12c

Hi I'm new here and was just going through this thread. I had this same problem yesterday with my csw v2, it was after I turned ABS on I usually don't have any assists on I just wanted to see if there was any advantage. I did a few laps then entered the pits to adjust a few things when I returned to the track I had the exact problem. I then when back to the pits then back on track and it was back to normal. My ps4 also crashed a few times after this, for the first time since patch 2.0. I have now turned the ABS off again and haven't had the problem since. Was very strange I have had loss of ffb before but never this weird feeling and my telemetry looked just like in these videos.

GrimeyDog
02-10-2015, 10:32
Gruzzle Beard When you Deleted your profile did you delete both Save Game Profiles??? The Cloud and Hard Drive Save Game Profile... I noticed last Night that the car seemed like it was driving on ice only on certain tracks...The FFB Telemetry was the same but i had to reset the in car FFB and all was well... This is only Since 4.0 update....Since i dont remember all the cars and Tracks i did i just started new and deleted All Save Game info...Hard Drive and Cloud save game that seemed to fix the problem.

I discovered this because i deleted the game info but still had all my Career progress and the problem was still there... I looked further and saw the second game profile save deleting that and Doing a Fresh instal seemed to fix the issue.

vahagn_hayk
02-10-2015, 14:22
possible for a mod to get best settings and details from @gruzzlebeard, @GrimeyDog and other Fanatec users, and push them to FIRST (1st) PAGE in this thread? (something like G29 thread has, where one can clearly find working settings and test them out...) just a suggestion.

Sankyo
02-10-2015, 14:23
possible for a mod to get best settings and details from @gruzzlebeard, @GrimeyDog and other Fanatec users, and push them to FIRST (1st) PAGE in this thread? (something like G29 thread has, where one can clearly find working settings and test them out...) just a suggestion.
If they post their latest and greatest below, I'll happily put them in the OP.

vahagn_hayk
02-10-2015, 14:26
dankjewel Remco!

Titzon Toast
02-10-2015, 14:42
If they post their latest and greatest below, I'll happily put them in the OP.

I'm game anyway.
I'll post my setup here later on.

GrimeyDog
02-10-2015, 15:33
possible for a mod to get best settings and details from @gruzzlebeard, @GrimeyDog and other Fanatec users, and push them to FIRST (1st) PAGE in this thread? (something like G29 thread has, where one can clearly find working settings and test them out...) just a suggestion.

I will post them when i get off work.

gruzzlebeard
02-10-2015, 20:46
Gruzzle Beard When you Deleted your profile did you delete both Save Game Profiles??? The Cloud and Hard Drive Save Game Profile... I noticed last Night that the car seemed like it was driving on ice only on certain tracks...The FFB Telemetry was the same but i had to reset the in car FFB and all was well... This is only Since 4.0 update....Since i dont remember all the cars and Tracks i did i just started new and deleted All Save Game info...Hard Drive and Cloud save game that seemed to fix the problem.

I discovered this because i deleted the game info but still had all my Career progress and the problem was still there... I looked further and saw the second game profile save deleting that and Doing a Fresh instal seemed to fix the issue.

Yep. I'm quite sure that deleted both. I'm aware of that both profiles should be deleted.

Currently I'm playing with plain vanilla default global and car settings (beside button assignment) - but even then I've got already variations in FFB strenght and this strange grinding. It was just 3 games in multiplayer then it get back to normal. However it's ruining my fun.

gruzzlebeard
02-10-2015, 20:57
Here is an example again some days old but I'm quite busy and cannot test too much at the moment.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiceI6k7CAs

GrimeyDog
02-10-2015, 22:26
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?34527-FFB-Experiments-with-Relative-Adjust-parameters

i found this a Very interesting Post.
What is your in Game FFB is it Still 100%??? You should try experimenting with a Lower setting.

Fre.Mo
03-10-2015, 08:35
Here is an example again some days old but I'm quite busy and cannot test too much at the moment.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiceI6k7CAs

I also experienced this kind of behaviour. All is fine during qualif and at the first corner of the race I have these fluctuations in the FFB like if the car was missing grip and was sliding or understeering during cornering.
I think by the way that your tire force is set too high since the ffb curve reaches the top...

GrimeyDog
03-10-2015, 17:25
Can you Tell Which Video Has the Advanced Settings Tab Set to Off??? There is a Difference With the Advanced Tab turned On...JMO the Soft Clipping in the setting you can Feel a Difference On vs Off... other than that both have Same In Car FFB Same Global Settings.

Difference is Advanced Tab Off the V2 Wheel FFB feels More Linar Has Tighter/ Smoother Ceter of the Wheel.

Advanced Tab On Feels good but Less Linar the Center of the Wheel is Not as Clam ,Tad bit more Road/Bump/Curb Feel at center of wheel some Times the Center of the Wheel can Feel Twitchy

Video A
https://youtu.be/pxqo50GRaJY

Video B
https://youtu.be/QMktBrzUx6U

vahagn_hayk
04-10-2015, 05:06
can someone experienced post their settings? would help many newbies! thx for your efforts!

GrimeyDog
04-10-2015, 05:25
can someone experienced post their settings? would help many newbies! thx for your efforts!

What wheel are you using???

Fong74
04-10-2015, 05:46
Yep. I'm quite sure that deleted both. I'm aware of that both profiles should be deleted.

Currently I'm playing with plain vanilla default global and car settings (beside button assignment) - but even then I've got already variations in FFB strenght and this strange grinding. It was just 3 games in multiplayer then it get back to normal. However it's ruining my fun.

Same here. Experiencing this since 4.0. Some ppl from my racing comm already left pCars because of that. This behaviour is present since release but was scarce and only few were affected. Now everyone has it and it occurs frequently.

Game breaker for me tbh as it makes no sense to test/build seups for league races on such a basis.

I hope this can be sorted out with the next update.

gruzzlebeard
04-10-2015, 09:06
Same here. Experiencing this since 4.0. Some ppl from my racing comm already left pCars because of that. This behaviour is present since release but was scarce and only few were affected. Now everyone has it and it occurs frequently.

Game breaker for me tbh as it makes no sense to test/build seups for league races on such a basis.

I hope this can be sorted out with the next update.

I fully agree, I hope this will be fixed finally soon

gruzzlebeard
04-10-2015, 09:27
Can you Tell Which Video Has the Advanced Settings Tab Set to Off??? There is a Difference With the Advanced Tab turned On...JMO the Soft Clipping in the setting you can Feel a Difference On vs Off... other than that both have Same In Car FFB Same Global Settings.

Difference is Advanced Tab Off the V2 Wheel FFB feels More Linar Has Tighter/ Smoother Ceter of the Wheel.

Advanced Tab On Feels good but Less Linar the Center of the Wheel is Not as Clam ,Tad bit more Road/Bump/Curb Feel at center of wheel some Times the Center of the Wheel can Feel Twitchy

Video A
https://youtu.be/pxqo50GRaJY

Video B
https://youtu.be/QMktBrzUx6U


@ GrimeyDog & Fre.Mo
My video above was taken after deleting my profile and with absolutely default standard settings in-game & Car setting. Also advanced was set to "OFF". So FFB was 50% and TF 100%. Car setting default. The FFB in the HUD while grinding was higher then normal. Therefore it reached the top. later it was lower again with normal oscillations.

I did this test because SMS wanted to check if this happens also if I leave all settings untouched - I name it plain vanilla set-up. So I proofed with the video that there is a general issue in game.

gruzzlebeard
04-10-2015, 16:05
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?34527-FFB-Experiments-with-Relative-Adjust-parameters

i found this a Very interesting Post.
What is your in Game FFB is it Still 100%??? You should try experimenting with a Lower setting.

Indeed GrimeyDog it's an interesting post. I never really challenged the Relative Adjust setting.

And yes I'm still on FFB 100% but I will play around with it from now on - here we are still not at the end. I just finished some tests and recorded some video with various improved linear settings for a comparison of the telemetry data. I'm going to post them in the video thread.

gruzzlebeard
04-10-2015, 18:50
Ok... after 2 weeks of testing the 100% in game FFB theory on PS4 and XB1 with the V2 wheel i find that in Game 100% FFB Doe's Not Feel better or Provide More Wheel Power... In Fact using my Setting i get Less Road Feel and Weight Transfer Feel with 100% in Game FFB.

The PS4 i can Run 100% in Game FFB but i Loose Subtle Road Feel so their is No Positive Gain or advantage.

The XB1 using 100% in game FFB this setting absolutely will Not work for Me and the Wheel feels Horrible.

With My 25% in Game FFB Tweek i can use the Same Exact Global and In Car FFB settings on PS4 and XB1 with the V2 wheel and the Cars Feel Great and Drive the Same with the Same FFB Telemetry! the Wheel Power is also the Same and I dont have to Change any on Wheel Settings Either!!!

So after 2 weeks of testing My conclusion is back to 25% in Game FFB... For Me with my Tweek it Has the Best Road Feel and Same Power as 100% in Game FFB and all the Forces are Sharp and Crisp.

The Advanced Settings Tab Turned Off the Wheel Center is Calmer/ Smoother and the FFB Seems to be more Linar.

With the Advanced Settings Tab set to ON the FFB is Crisper and the Wheel center is Not as Smooth but it adds to the Road Feel.

All Cars were tested using Same in Car FFB and Same Global Settings...IMO i treat the In Game FFB like a Volume Control on a Radio... I Set it High until i Start to get distortion then turn it Down until Distortion Stops... I see FFB the Same way turn it up until you get Clipping and Start Loosing Road Feel then Back it Down until you find a Sweet Spot... Just my personal theory and Method of Tweeking FFB. There are many Methods of Tweeking the FFB and No one way is Right for all this is just My method that works best for Me.


So then I will test from now on with lowering the feedback. I would like to try your settings as a reference and starting point. Is your tweaker pdf V9 version (just with 25% FFB still valid) or do you have some last minute changes which I should know?

HeHa
05-10-2015, 08:57
So then I will test from now on with lowering the feedback. I would like to try your settings as a reference and starting point. Is your tweaker pdf V9 version (just with 25% FFB still valid) or do you have some last minute changes which I should know?

Have you tried reinstalling the wheel base firmware again at all ?
It's probably unlikely but maybe something has messed up in the wheel, would have to be worth trying.
Hope you can get it sorted. If it's anything like the feeling I had the other day it feels terrible. If it was an rc car it would be similar effect to the motor cogging, which a non sencored brushless motor will do working out its timing.
My telemetry looked exactly the same as in your video when it happened.

If you have a heap of car setups saved and a fare way into your career, it's a good idea to save to a USB drive every now and then so your not starting all over again if your saves get corrupted.

GrimeyDog
05-10-2015, 23:27
CSW v2 Pcars FFB Tweek PS4 & Xbox 1 V# 110

This Tweek works on PS4 & XB1 Exactly as is with The CSW v2 Wheel... I use 75% on Wheel FFB but you can use 100% on Wheel FFB if you Want it Really strong... Other wheels may work but you will have to Tweek it for YOUR specific Wheel.

*** Note the XBox 1 Feels Horrible with Game Master FFB set to 100%!!! PS4 you can Run
Game Master FFB at 100% but you Lose much of the Subtle Road feel***

After many weeks and over 200hrs of Pcars FFB Tweeking I Have the opinion that 100% in
Game FFB is NOT Needed and as a Matter of Fact i find that using 100% in Game FFB you
Lose Much of the subtle Road feel because it is being Drowned out by the Stronger harsher
FFB Forces.

My point of view with Console FFB is I see the Tire Force as a Constant FFB/ Wheel weight
that is Governed the the Relative adjust settings… My Theory is The Relative adjust settings
either Apply Torque or Bleed Off Torque to Create a change in Wheel Weight and that is
what gives you the Feeling of FFB and Weight Transfer.

I see The Master in Game FFB Level as a Volume control sort of like a Car Stereo… You Turn
it up to the Point that you start Getting Distortion then you Back off of it until the Distortion
Stops… Then you would Fine tune your EQ or Bass, Mids & Treble until it sounds Good (in car
FFB Settings) then readjust the Volume accordingly (Game Master FFB)… . to Keep it
simple I see Pcars FFB the same way.

Edit: I also believe that the Best FFB Tune is Just made by Trial and Error... I say this Because their is No Way to Validate what X = in Reality VS what X was programmed to = for PCars... Trial and Error if it feels good then it is good.

Sankyo
06-10-2015, 07:16
CSW v2 Pcars FFB Tweek PS4 & Xbox 1 V# 110

This Tweek works on PS4 & XB1 Exactly as is with The CSW v2 Wheel... I use 75% on Wheel FFB but you can use 100% on Wheel FFB if you Want it Really strong... Other wheels may work but you will have to Tweek it for YOUR specific Wheel.

*** Note the XBox 1 Feels Horrible with Game Master FFB set to 100%!!! PS4 you can Run
Game Master FFB at 100% but you Lose much of the Subtle Road feel***

After many weeks and over 200hrs of Pcars FFB Tweeking I Have the opinion that 100% in
Game FFB is NOT Needed and as a Matter of Fact i find that using 100% in Game FFB you
Lose Much of the subtle Road feel because it is being Drowned out by the Stronger harsher
FFB Forces.

My point of view with Console FFB is I see the Tire Force as a Constant FFB/ Wheel weight
that is Governed the the Relative adjust settings… My Theory is The Relative adjust settings
either Apply Torque or Bleed Off Torque to Create a change in Wheel Weight and that is
what gives you the Feeling of FFB and Weight Transfer.

I see The Master in Game FFB Level as a Volume control sort of like a Car Stereo… You Turn
it up to the Point that you start Getting Distortion then you Back off of it until the Distortion
Stops… Then you would Fine tune your EQ or Bass, Mids & Treble until it sounds Good (in car
FFB Settings) then readjust the Volume accordingly (Game Master FFB)… . to Keep it
simple I see Pcars FFB the same way.

Edit: I also believe that the Best FFB Tune is Just made by Trial and Error... I say this Because their is No Way to Validate what X = in Reality VS what X was programmed to = for PCars... Trial and Error if it feels good then it is good.

Linked to this Tweakers set in the OP.

gruzzlebeard
06-10-2015, 08:31
CSW v2 Pcars FFB Tweek PS4 & Xbox 1 V# 110

This Tweek works on PS4 & XB1 Exactly as is with The CSW v2 Wheel... I use 75% on Wheel FFB but you can use 100% on Wheel FFB if you Want it Really strong... Other wheels may work but you will have to Tweek it for YOUR specific Wheel.

*** Note the XBox 1 Feels Horrible with Game Master FFB set to 100%!!! PS4 you can Run
Game Master FFB at 100% but you Lose much of the Subtle Road feel***

After many weeks and over 200hrs of Pcars FFB Tweeking I Have the opinion that 100% in
Game FFB is NOT Needed and as a Matter of Fact i find that using 100% in Game FFB you
Lose Much of the subtle Road feel because it is being Drowned out by the Stronger harsher
FFB Forces.

My point of view with Console FFB is I see the Tire Force as a Constant FFB/ Wheel weight
that is Governed the the Relative adjust settings… My Theory is The Relative adjust settings
either Apply Torque or Bleed Off Torque to Create a change in Wheel Weight and that is
what gives you the Feeling of FFB and Weight Transfer.

I see The Master in Game FFB Level as a Volume control sort of like a Car Stereo… You Turn
it up to the Point that you start Getting Distortion then you Back off of it until the Distortion
Stops… Then you would Fine tune your EQ or Bass, Mids & Treble until it sounds Good (in car
FFB Settings) then readjust the Volume accordingly (Game Master FFB)… . to Keep it
simple I see Pcars FFB the same way.

Edit: I also believe that the Best FFB Tune is Just made by Trial and Error... I say this Because their is No Way to Validate what X = in Reality VS what X was programmed to = for PCars... Trial and Error if it feels good then it is good.

Howdy GrimeyDog, thanks for this update. I will use your tweeker file and will proceed with further tests based on that.

I finished my testing with "Linearity settings". The wheel feel changes are quite noticeable when tweeking DRR/DRF, Scoop and PWM/PWMS (PWM didn't feel so good to me). Overall this exercise was not only a mathematical approach. At the end of the day what counts is the empiric wheel feel with a lot of testing. Not everything what has been calculated felt good on the track. But it was a good starting point and a good experience. I posted some video with the telemetry data in the Thread: Lets talk FFB... Post and Compare short Telemetry Videos ...and what FFB tweek used. (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used&p=1139096&viewfull=1#post1139096)

I was astonished that the changes of the parameters didn't change the telemetry data too much. Actually I expected significant changes. but if you compare the videos it seems that the oscillations are not changing too much. The different wheel feel is noticeable after changes but the telemetry data not too much - this surprised me.

So even more I'm convinced what GrimeyDog is writing that the right mixture of Global FFB, Wheel FFB, Master and SoP scale and TF are making the big differences in FFB for PS4/Fanatec users (and maybe the new functionalities for Steering gain and spring settings - who knows?). Lower global FFB might give more room for the lower and mid subtle signals.
What the PC guys are writing that all FFB to 100% and lower Car FFB might be right for PCs but maybe not for consoleros.

I'm keen what the new test round will bring to me. I also want to check if I can replicate the telemetry data results from Grimey and can compare them 1:1. Before patch 4.0 I've got other oscillations on my HUD screen then Grimey. And the FFB feel was not so good. Maybe I overlooked a setting or maybe it was caused by a somehow corrupted game save profile at that time.

GrimeyDog
06-10-2015, 08:46
Tak Note... The Formula A Car Class you Have to Leave the In Car Settings Stock or use your Own Set up they just dont Behave well No Matter what i Do. Everything else is Fine.... Yip their is always 1 Odd Ball.

GrimeyDog
06-10-2015, 10:39
Some Run their in Car Master Scales very Low and the Game Master FFB at 100% This i do Not understand because Running the In Car Master Scales Very Low is Killing the Very Forces that you are trying to Feel… I even see some with in Car FFB Masters at 30% + or - but still very low and they have the FX, FY ETC: at 100 and Even Higher...this I don’t understand because No Matter How High you set the FX,FY ETC you are Blocking or Limiting the FFB those settings can Put out because the in Car Master Scales are set to 30… so IMO Nothing above 30 is going to get out.
My Theory is I Run the in Car masters at 100% because i want to Feel the Full Range of FFB signal that is put out...The settings within the Masters can be set to your taste depending on what you want to Feel Most… Also by Running the Game Master FFB at a Lower # and Having Higher In car master Scales allows you to Turn up the settings FY,FX ETC within the in car FFB Master Scales and Reduce or Better Control Clipping issues without having to Change your Global settings.

Fong74
06-10-2015, 15:06
Hey Guzzle,

is this your "best" set of settings then? The graph looks mostly linear, so I guess thats what it should be, because it represents the FFB issued by the game most, right?

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used&p=1139096&viewfull=1#post1139096

I read through all of your latest postings and will give a shot at some changes beyond mine. You made me nosy :D Grimeys assumptions I will test next.

Again, appreciate the efforts you guys put into this very much. Really great stuff!

GrimeyDog
06-10-2015, 15:32
Can you Tell Which Video Has the Advanced Settings Tab Set to Off??? There is a Difference With the Advanced Tab turned On...JMO the Soft Clipping in the setting you can Feel a Difference On vs Off... other than that both have Same In Car FFB Same Global Settings.

Difference is Advanced Tab Off the V2 Wheel FFB feels More Linar Has Tighter/ Smoother Ceter of the Wheel.

Advanced Tab On Feels good but Less Linar the Center of the Wheel is Not as Clam ,Tad bit more Road/Bump/Curb Feel at center of wheel some Times the Center of the Wheel can Feel Twitchy

Video A
https://youtu.be/pxqo50GRaJY

Video B
https://youtu.be/QMktBrzUx6U

Fong 74 Check these Videos can you tell which Video the advanced settings tab was on with??? Both same Global and in Car FFB but Feel Different because of advanced Tab off.. Off Feels More Linar then on doe's... Which is Which LOL... With the settings in My PDF you will get the Same FFB as in the Video The Tweek is the PDF i posted.

GrimeyDog
06-10-2015, 21:57
Ive ported My Tweek over to work with the TX 458 wheel on Xbox 1 it should work the same on PS4 Pcars because my V2 tweek works the Same PS4 or XB1 same identical settings i use and get same FFB both systems....

https://youtu.be/LTHacN4MdvI

Video proof it works on TX same as it does the v2 just a Few Minor Changes to the Global settings,,, Check the telemetry TX is very strong feels Good and No Clipping!!!

Cabriojoschy
07-10-2015, 07:09
Hello Grimey,

I tried you Tweak, and it feels really good in racing cars. However in street cars I have a really snappy/shaky wheel (goes hard from left to right) when braking. Which force I have to change in the car FFB to erase this behavior?

Thanks in advance :)

Fong74
07-10-2015, 08:31
Fong 74 Check these Videos can you tell which Video the advanced settings tab was on with??? Both same Global and in Car FFB but Feel Different because of advanced Tab off.. Off Feels More Linar then on doe's... Which is Which LOL... With the settings in My PDF you will get the Same FFB as in the Video The Tweek is the PDF i posted.

I would guess A is with Advanced Settings OFF. Just from comparing the telemetry and remembering the change in feel that I realize between those two options. Its hard to see some aspects via the telemetry anyway....

BTW the description you posted on the changes resulting from those two settings is correct imo. On is more crisp, Off is smoother overall. Me, I like On more. But thats purely a matter of taste.

GrimeyDog
07-10-2015, 08:46
Hello Grimey,

I tried you Tweak, and it feels really good in racing cars. However in street cars I have a really snappy/shaky wheel (goes hard from left to right) when braking. Which force I have to change in the car FFB to erase this behavior?

Thanks in advance :)

turn Down the "MZ".... What car is it???

gruzzlebeard
07-10-2015, 12:17
Hey Guzzle,

is this your "best" set of settings then? The graph looks mostly linear, so I guess thats what it should be, because it represents the FFB issued by the game most, right?

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used&p=1139096&viewfull=1#post1139096

I read through all of your latest postings and will give a shot at some changes beyond mine. You made me nosy :D Grimeys assumptions I will test next.

Again, appreciate the efforts you guys put into this very much. Really great stuff!

I'm still struggling with myself. The "Comparison 3: CSW V2 DRI "OFF" FFB: DR+RA+SC V1 (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used&p=1139110&viewfull=1#post1139110)" with additional Scoop settings is quite nice too. It gives you a better overall road feel. I think Version 3 is better. I've just not enough time for testing at the moment to make a final decision.

If I remember correctly I nailed down a high 1:44 unturned. I have not too much experience at the moment - just fiddling in FFB settings again and driving over curbs :p
I'm planning to make a comparison of the two videos in one combined video. I've just no clue how this works. I'm such a noob.

Cabriojoschy
07-10-2015, 13:16
turn Down the "MZ".... What car is it???

Thanks I will try that. It's the Ruf RGT-8...

Mascot
08-10-2015, 08:25
I've been extremely patient with this game and all it's silly design decisions, bugs and crashes, but I'm getting severely pissed off now with having to power cycle my CSRE every single time I start an online quali session, just to get the FFB effects activated again.

Fong74
08-10-2015, 10:35
If SMS would only give the users some hint, that they are on that lost-or-changed-FFB-issue, Ill be glad and more willing to wait for a solution. But the problem is there since release and got worse with v4.0 imo.

Still a game breaker for me, too, as this narrows the unique and good that pCars brings: physics/tire model driven FFB at its best. The trust in what I feel is gone atm. I really hope the devs can sort that one out rather sooner than later :o

RomKnight
08-10-2015, 10:42
People complained yesterday (a couple of them) about losing FFB or clipping to extreme. Something changing indeed from qualy to race at least even on PC

Fong74
08-10-2015, 10:44
That was on PC, Tiago?

I was assuming only the consoles are affected?

Sankyo
08-10-2015, 11:27
I've been extremely patient with this game and all it's silly design decisions, bugs and crashes, but I'm getting severely pissed off now with having to power cycle my CSRE every single time I start an online quali session, just to get the FFB effects activated again.


If SMS would only give the users some hint, that they are on that lost-or-changed-FFB-issue, Ill be glad and more willing to wait for a solution. But the problem is there since release and got worse with v4.0 imo.

Still a game breaker for me, too, as this narrows the unique and good that pCars brings: physics/tire model driven FFB at its best. The trust in what I feel is gone atm. I really hope the devs can sort that one out rather sooner than later :o
The devs are working on this as we speak.

Mascot
08-10-2015, 12:31
The devs are working on this as we speak.

That's good to hear. Another issue is power cycling the wheel and getting FFB back, but at a vastly increased arm-breaking and wheel-destroying level.

gruzzlebeard
08-10-2015, 12:36
The devs are working on this as we speak.

Thanks Remco,

here is another video from end of September where the FFB is changing between 3 stints. It's a custom setup with Jack Spades presets which I've dialed in days before and used a couple of times without any issues.

This time the strange grinding happened even without any changes in global FFB profile or Car settings during the game. Just from one pit stop to another the issue pops up.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B92ruNdc1WE

The global settings for this video at that time can be reviewed in this video (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used&p=1139103&viewfull=1#post1139103). Just in case the Devs want to know it.

GrimeyDog
08-10-2015, 14:13
Gruzzlebeard You gotta make the Video public...I cant View it

GrimeyDog
08-10-2015, 14:19
Thanks Remco,

here is another video from end of September where the FFB is changing between 3 stints. This time the strange grinding happened even without any changes in global FFB profile or Car settings. Just from one pit stop to another the issue pops up.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B92ruNdc1WE

The global settings for this video at that time can be reviewed in this video (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used&p=1139103&viewfull=1#post1139103). Just in case the Devs want to know it.

Very Strange issue... We use the Same equip just Diff settings... I Have Not been Having Changing FFB issues... Every Now and then i lose FFB but thats usually if i let the game and wheel sit for a Bit with out pushing any buttons or Pedals... Most of the time i get FFB back just by going to main menu and reloading the Race....If i have to piwer wheel off and on the FFB comes back in and is Normal.
What car and Track are you Running when this Happens???

GrimeyDog
08-10-2015, 14:31
IMO... there are just Too Many Settings that are Visable... So People want to use all of them... Many of the settings are Redundent and Couteract other settings if Not Set Right...Many of the Settings should be Hidden behind a Advanced Settings Tab so that most people will just use the Basic FFB options...IMO there would not be sooo Many problems if this were the case. We see More and want More but in this case Less = More... JMO.

Ive played with all the settings and many of them will make Good FFB feel Horrible if the settings that it works together with are set wrong...Just 1 change + or - 1 Number can Kill your FFB tune if you dont balance it right with the other settings.

vahagn_hayk
08-10-2015, 14:33
guys, remotely possible that things completely messaed up with FFB after patch 4.0??? just curious since i feel like every day or every different day FFB and wheel and all feels different...????

GrimeyDog
08-10-2015, 14:38
After 4.0 i did have to do a Total Reset/Delete of my PCars Profile and Re-Installed Game with Fresh 4.0 Download... Some Tracks were Fine others Felt like i was Driving on ICE...after Profile Reset everything went back to the Norm

Fong74
08-10-2015, 14:47
guys, remotely possible that things completely messaed up with FFB after patch 4.0??? just curious since i feel like every day or every different day FFB and wheel and all feels different...????

Delete your savegames (local and cloud) and try again. For most of the guys I race with, that helped. Also delete replays if you have any. That helped some other guys, too (sounds strange, but it is what I was told).

If that doesnt resolve your issues, re-install the game like Grimey suggested. That should definitely do the job...

vahagn_hayk
08-10-2015, 16:23
thank you @Grimey and @Fong! will do so and post results here this weekend! appreciate ya'lls efforts!

gruzzlebeard
08-10-2015, 17:31
Gruzzlebeard You gotta make the Video public...I cant View it

ok - done.


Very Strange issue... We use the Same equip just Diff settings... I Have Not been Having Changing FFB issues... Every Now and then i lose FFB but thats usually if i let the game and wheel sit for a Bit with out pushing any buttons or Pedals... Most of the time i get FFB back just by going to main menu and reloading the Race....If i have to piwer wheel off and on the FFB comes back in and is Normal.
What car and Track are you Running when this Happens???

As I said the video is from end of Sept. This happened on every test track I'm using - Zolder, Watkins Glen, Oulton Park Dubai etc in single player solo sessions. But also in Bruen in Multiplayer it happened already.

Since my last deletion of the save game early Oct I don't have too many issues anymore. But first of all I'm testing less at the moment and changing less data at the moment, secondly I regularly reset and recalibrate the wheel now before changing data.

gruzzlebeard
08-10-2015, 17:47
guys, remotely possible that things completely messaed up with FFB after patch 4.0??? just curious since i feel like every day or every different day FFB and wheel and all feels different...????

I discovered this issue and some others already before Patch 4 and posted videos about that. It's not new at all that something is wrong with it. But I deleted my game profile a couple of times. Then it worked for a while before it happens again.
Of course the different strength from one day to another I just mentioned that - It's not possible to proof it with a video.

But just be aware if you change values in Scoop knee and reduction the FFB strength is changing as well. If you increase scoop reduction values you have to add Master Scale and/or TF values in order to get the same FFB strength again. Don't mix this up with the strange differences in FFB which happens from time to time unexpectedly.

GrimeyDog
08-10-2015, 18:53
Make Sure when you Change a Setting that you WAIT for the Little Saving Data Icon to done with before backing out of the Page... Thats what i do...I was Exiting the page before the Save Data Icon was done...its another way to try and Not get Corrupt data files.

GrimeyDog
08-10-2015, 19:19
This was Posted by Wahwah on my Lets Talk FFB thread.

"We see plenty of justifiable complaint in these forums regarding a lack of direct information from the development team, so I will re-post the answer I got directly from Tim Mann, Console Lead for SMS, when I asked him about the nature of the FFB master on consoles.

*Originally Posted by*Tim Mann

Hi, there is only the one control on PS4 which covers the entire range from off to full, you should set it*appropriately for your device.

Tim

This is contrary to the advice we have heard from the beginning from PC guys, that the in-game FBB master*must*be set to 100, but that is easily explained by the fact that the console system works slightly differently, in that we don't have both an in-game master and a Control Panel master in the driver software. Since this is the only control we have that dictates the final, post-telemetry output to the wheel, we can look at the FFB master on consoles as being equivalent to the Control Panel master on PC, which defaultsappropriate to the device*(wheel), just as Tim Mann recommends for the console FFB master. I only know of the default for the T300 on PS4, which sets the FFB master at 75.*

Of course, none of this is set in stone, and we are free to experiment with settings wherever we choose. The best we can do is be informed, and in the case of this piece of information, it comes directly from the developer and is platform specific. Still, we are free to do with it as we wish. In a system with so many variables, the more we can lock down with some sense of permanence, particularly as a starting point for new players, or those struggling with their settings, the better.*

From there, we have the two global multipliers at either end of the chain, including Tire Force at input, directly bridging between the tire model and in-car settings, and Steering Gain at the end of the chain of calculable forces, prior to telemetry. Both are capable of attenuating or boosting overall strength, with varying degrees of influence over the general feel. Both will be reflected to some extent in telemetry. Then of course we have the in-car settings, positioned between the two multipliers, and prior to the compression/expansion controls (Rel Gain, Scoop, Soft Clip, etc). Only the FFB master comes*aftertelemetry, so you will not be able to see what effect it is having on the actual output to the wheel.

At the very least, the information from Tim Mann regarding the console FFB master should at least dispel the myth that we should treat this setting exactly the same as the suggestions on PC, because its setting is device dependent, rather than absolute across the board. Similar, in that way, to the PC system's Strength of All Forces slider in the driver Control Panel for the specific wheel. That doesn't mean you can't set it to 100 if you want to, it's your wheel and your game. It would simply be contrary to the game developer's recommendations."



Boom The Proof!!! Thanx Wahwah!!!
So i Guess Im Not Crazy in Fact im just ahead of the Learning curve!!! I've been Screaming this for Months!!!

People Pay Too Much Attention to the FFB Graph... as long as its Not Flat Lining on Top or Bottom its Good... The Rest Has to be Done By Feel/Trial and Error.

You Dont see the Effects of 25%/50%/100% FFB in the Graph but you can Well at least i can Clearly Feel the Difference Between 25%/50/100% in Game Master FFB in the Wheel... IMO at 100% In Game FFB you Lose the Finer FFB Detail... It gets Drowned out by all the Harsher FFB Effects...its all about Balance.

GrimeyDog
08-10-2015, 19:24
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used/page15


I'm going to frame this post in Gold Leaf and hang it on the wall in the Man Kave!!! LOL

gruzzlebeard
08-10-2015, 20:13
Make Sure when you Change a Setting that you WAIT for the Little Saving Data Icon to done with before backing out of the Page... Thats what i do...I was Exiting the page before the Sace Data Icon was done...its another way to try and Not get Corrupt data files.

That's a very good point. Formerly I saved my data and jumped already to the next page while saving icon was still in progress. Since a couple of week I'm not doing it anymore.

gruzzlebeard
09-10-2015, 11:21
That's good to hear. Another issue is power cycling the wheel and getting FFB back, but at a vastly increased arm-breaking and wheel-destroying level.

Do you mean this with power cycling? I have had also an issue with this heavy wheel shaking when driving slow. In higher spped it didn't happen. But the forces where brutal and the Telemetry data looked strange as well.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNRFvMhPQlY

I've had a this issue one time and I tried to get rid of that by recalibration the wheel, changing tracks and cars, different game modi - nothing helped. At the end I deleted my game profile.

Here is the whole series - just if the dev wants to look at it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfrAgH3R8OM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czWJ9RueDFs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLJrQhMLkpc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oegwG4vw9Lg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01RbQOMV-GM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpIHy31aJk0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPAGrzziJA8

Mascot
09-10-2015, 12:26
By 'power cycling' I just mean having to turn the wheel off then on again.

gruzzlebeard
09-10-2015, 12:33
Ahh - ok I forgot. Isn't it already a common standard for us? Not sure if I can live without it :p
So then I call the issue above "heavy wheel shaking"

gruzzlebeard
09-10-2015, 15:01
Bruno posted in Known Issues Collective Thread (PS4) (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22495-Known-Issues-Collective-Thread-(PS4)-Not-for-bug-reporting!-Updated-29-09&p=1143297&viewfull=1#post1143297) a statement with the current status on the bugs. Thumbs up.


He said: Button assignments and joystick disappearing, if i recall correctly, were a restriction set by Fanatec. Nothing we can do.

Has somebody a good connection to the Fanatec guys and trigger them. I want my R4 button back :p:p:p

gruzzlebeard
09-10-2015, 16:25
Have you tried reinstalling the wheel base firmware again at all ?
It's probably unlikely but maybe something has messed up in the wheel, would have to be worth trying.
Hope you can get it sorted. If it's anything like the feeling I had the other day it feels terrible. If it was an rc car it would be similar effect to the motor cogging, which a non sencored brushless motor will do working out its timing.
My telemetry looked exactly the same as in your video when it happened.

If you have a heap of car setups saved and a fare way into your career, it's a good idea to save to a USB drive every now and then so your not starting all over again if your saves get corrupted.

I reinstalled the FW a couple of weeks ago. It went through without any issues (what wa not always the case with former versions). So I leave it untouched for the moment. For the moment it is stable. Before major changes I reset my wheel regularly and I have also a file on an USB stick.

Linx
14-10-2015, 06:17
Hey Grimey. I've been using your version 9 settings for quite a while. After downloading patch 5.0 today I noticed in straights I would get some jitters. So I went ahead and changed my FFB settings to your latest one. Now the wheel is smooth in straights but when turning the wheel I get constant shaking/jitters. I'm racing on Watkins Glen and though I know it can be bumpy but I don't think at this extreme as it only does it when turning the wheel. I also noticed the wheel feels much lighter. I increased the MZ to 120 but it didn't seem to make a difference. I would like the wheel to be a tad heavier. Do you know what I need to do to fix these issues?

vahagn_hayk
14-10-2015, 11:13
any Fanatec users with their settings? to post here? and how are things after patch 5.0 with FFB?

gruzzlebeard
14-10-2015, 11:32
which Fanatec wheel and PC or PS4. Short comment in signature would help. Not yet played on 5.0 but this evening.

firephoenix
14-10-2015, 14:12
Hello everyone. I am trying to update my PWTS, so I can play the game on the PS4. How do I find out what firmware I'm currently running? And what's the best firmware to use with this wheel? (where can I find it?) And how do you update the wheel using Windows 10?

Many thanks in advance :)

Fong74
14-10-2015, 14:43
Has somebody a good connection to the Fanatec guys and trigger them. I want my R4 button back :p:p:p

Pick Remco. He's with Fanatec [caugh] ;)

Fong74
14-10-2015, 14:48
any Fanatec users with their settings? to post here? and how are things after patch 5.0 with FFB?

I didnt notice any significant changes tbh. Racing a GT3 R8 around Donington GP currently. The wheel is quite alive there, so I should have noticed any changes... :o

vahagn_hayk
14-10-2015, 15:20
I didnt notice any significant changes tbh. Racing a GT3 R8 around Donington GP currently. The wheel is quite alive there, so I should have noticed any changes... :o

thank you Fong74! appreciate it, yes on PS4. i do have pcars on 5.0 PC platform. was wondering about PS4. (going with JS details on PC for my Fanatec setup) PS4 have not figured out yet, not many posts and details out there.

dannydizzal
16-10-2015, 08:34
any update settings for GT2 ps4?

2stains
16-10-2015, 22:09
any update settings for GT2 ps4?
Anything from sik180 or titzontoast?? You guys usually had good help with this type of wheel .

Zeke Bewlay
17-10-2015, 10:39
My experience with Gt3 wheel after patch 5 is good. Occasional strange ffb leaving pits when returning to game but easily dealt with but pausing and restarting wheel.

Pappa_Stig
19-10-2015, 05:57
My experience with Gt3 wheel after patch 5 is good. Occasional strange ffb leaving pits when returning to game but easily dealt with but pausing and restarting wheel.

Is that the "notchy" feeling ffb? I've had that on occasion with my CSR. Feels dodgy as, but same workaround as the missing ffb bug that pops up at times.

Mascot
21-10-2015, 13:54
Been having a strange 'jerk' or 'knock' near the extremities of my CSR Elite's turning motion. Had me worried for a while as I thought the FFB motor was on the way out.

...


Turns out the wheel support on my cockpit frame was slightly loose..!

:triumphant:

Zeke Bewlay
22-10-2015, 20:33
Is that the "notchy" feeling ffb? I've had that on occasion with my CSR. Feels dodgy as, but same workaround as the missing ffb bug that pops up at times.

No it was at Monaco and the cR felt like it was half steering itself. Not had it at other tracks. Another charming PCARS idiosyncracy ��

Sum Dixon-Ear
30-10-2015, 14:48
New motor block arrived... sweet, that'll keep me out of trouble for an hour or two.

221136

GrimeyDog
30-10-2015, 18:08
New motor block arrived... sweet, that'll keep me out of trouble for an hour or two.

221136

Are those upgrades or just Stock Replacement motors???

Sum Dixon-Ear
30-10-2015, 18:15
Just the latest revision from Fanatec mate, supposedly better than the original V2s that are in my wheel at the moment.

GrimeyDog
30-10-2015, 20:11
Just the latest revision from Fanatec mate, supposedly better than the original V2s that are in my wheel at the moment.

kool let me know how they feel... Maybe i will add them to my CSR E... im building another Racing set up for the man kave so i can race against my Son or when i have friends over.

redruMKO
30-10-2015, 21:27
thats funny, I was building a second so I can race my friends, or when I have a son!

seriously though, pCars has rekindled my desire for 2 rigs side by side, but for testing purposes!!

sigh. that would have shot so many 'placebos' right in the head

Sum Dixon-Ear
30-10-2015, 22:03
kool let me know how they feel... Maybe i will add them to my CSR E... im building another Racing set up for the man kave so i can race against my Son or when i have friends over.

I will do, a while ago the game crashed and caused my wheel to go full power right lock when I was away from the rig. When I rebooted, the thermal fail-safe had cut all my FFB (loose calibration, no resistance etc) which didn't return until the next day. I'm pretty sure there was no lasting damage to the motors but that was when I decided a new set was going in asap.

I quizzed support about the current motor batch compared to mine (first gen V2s after my original beta motors died, as was the norm) and was told that these are fully heat-tested, more reliable and with 'some other changes' implemented... I'll let you know whether there is any discernible difference or not. For the price incurred it was a no-brainer as they will, at least, significantly lengthen the lifespan of my Elite as my existing motor block has worked flawlessly for around 4 years now.

vahagn_hayk
02-11-2015, 18:08
@gruzzlebeard:

(my stuff Firmware 116 & Driver v226))
-tried your posted settings out of curiousity, with my CSW V2 + CSP V2: get massive oscillation on straights with slightest touch of finger to the wheel or letting go of wheel
- -tried your posted settings out of curiousity, with my CSW V2 + CSP V3: get massive oscillation on straights with slightest touch of finger to the wheel or letting go of wheel

----> went to GrimeyDog's settings, and works perfect and feels great.

just to clarify, since i am assuming we have the same setups, hardware and cables from Fanatec, why do i have massive oscillation running your @gruzzlebeard settings?

gruzzlebeard
02-11-2015, 19:03
did you reset and calibrate the wheel before you dialed-in the global settings? If not I would strongly recommend to do it. I and others too have got the impression that sometimes not all settings will be overwritten in the wheel profile data. In many cases the FFB feels too strong or too weak. It feels like a rest of former settings are still active. So I reset always my wheel before making many changes in one strike.

What is your Spindle Master/Sop Scale ?

vahagn_hayk
02-11-2015, 20:42
did you reset and calibrate the wheel before you dialed-in the global settings? If not I would strongly recommend to do it. I and others too have got the impression that sometimes not all settings will be overwritten in the wheel profile data. In many cases the FFB feels too strong or too weak. It feels like a rest of former settings are still active. So I reset always my wheel before making many changes in one strike.

What is your Spindle Master/Sop Scale ?
yes I did so, always reset and do from scratch.
as for sop and master scale x2. did as you wrote/ posted:
JS FY|SoP lateral (v2.4 website oscarolim)

gruzzlebeard
03-11-2015, 11:45
@gruzzlebeard:

(my stuff Firmware 116 & Driver v226))
- -tried your posted settings out of curiousity, with my CSW V2 + CSP V3: get massive oscillation on straights with slightest touch of finger to the wheel or letting go of wheel

----> went to GrimeyDog's settings, and works perfect and feels great.

just to clarify, since i am assuming we have the same setups, hardware and cables from Fanatec, why do i have massive oscillation running your @gruzzlebeard settings?

It's because of DRR/DRF and maybe depended on the rim what you are using. See comments below.

My Deadzone is at DRR 0.03/ DRF 0.0001. If you reduce DRR and rise DRF values carefully you can mitigate the oscillation. You can even gain more subtle details if you try that. Additionally you could also try to increase slightly PWM (+) to get a little bit more drag on the wheel. GrimeyDog has a deadzone of 0. Therefore you don't get oscillations at all. This might work for his setup since he has much higher car ffb in his FFB pipeline but for me the wheel feels numb if I don't dial in some dead zone values.

Other considerations:
First it's also important which wheel you're using with the CSW V2. I have a CSW 918 RSR rim which is quite heavy and has a big diameter. So I have enough inert mass. If you are using the F1 rim which is small and light you might notice much more heavy torque on your rim which could cause oscillations much earlier.

Secondly it's a question if you should really drive a GT3 car hands-free with more then 240 km/h especially in Watkins Glen where you get a lot of feedback from the tarmac/surface of the road. With road cars I do not get any oscillations at all just some very slight twitches of a millimeter. But for a heavy road car with street tires this is maybe even a bit too much and not realistic. Actually you should just feel nothing because such a wheel is technically much more dampened and street tires are killing the rest.

In Watkins Glen it works ok for me. If I leave just my hand on the CSW 918 RSR wheel without grapping it I'm not getting any oscillations. Without touching the wheel in Watkins Glen GP I get oscillations from > 230 km/h onwards at the end of the Back Straight 600 m before the "Inner Loop" (the chicane). But the breaking point is at 300 meters and comes in split second so why should I release my wheel? I do not even think about to let the wheel go on the straight - it's just not a realistic scenario.
At Monza with much higher speed I noticed that I would get heavy oscillations mid of the straight if I let my wheel go (maybe I will adjust DRR/DRF a bit). But again - the wheel is not striking back from itself. It stays where it is as long as I have my hand on.

Finally I cannot imagine that in real world a racer ever considered seriously to release his wheel in practice. As most of the guys here I never drove a race car. But I'm racing with a race bike on tracks and there if you would just release the bar in the wrong moment you would end up immediately in a terrible disaster because of the aggressive steering geometry. You don't need to grab the handle bar sturdily - this gives just a numb feel. You rather touch it nicely that you get every input from the tire and transmission through your palm and fingertips during acceleration and high speed. You are correcting things with smallest inputs which you cannot even see or optically measure. That's enough. But without this subtle guidance the steering and the tires would strike back with forces you cannot imagine if you didn't experienced it for yourselve.

Fong74
03-11-2015, 12:10
Absolutely *no* oscillations with Guzzles settings here, too. Some of my racing community mates applied them also and we keep using them as they are really the best ones so far. At least for us (all a matter of taste in the end).

@vahagn_hayk:
Did you set your CSW wheel to the correct values also? It can be a huge difference even if you have only one of the values set to something different...

vahagn_hayk
03-11-2015, 12:15
thx gruzzlebeard, great reply and feedback, makes all sense and appreciate the effort, it was my RL comparison to a Porsche Cup Car, which i can let go of on the straight @Laguna. but that is beside the point, since in reality a car or wheel does not oscillate regardless of track and reason letting go of wheel.
I tried the same settings u posted on Road America, Spa, Dubai and Hockenheim, same oscillation on straights, high speed or low speed (approx 50mph to high speed as wrote already 200-240kph)
- my wheels are BMW M3 GT2 and Formula Carbon Wheel

will try your suggestions above changing DRR, DRF and PWM.

honesty though appreciate all the work, efforts and research you put into this! thank you.

BUT, i don't think letting go of the wheel should be questioned in any way or form, since there should not be any self-induced-oscillation at all!!! no matter which car, which track and which wheel!! RL no race car will have self-induced-oscillation just because u let go of steering wheel. (just keep that in mind!)

gruzzlebeard
03-11-2015, 12:41
....

BUT, i don't think letting go of the wheel should be questioned in any way or form, since there should not be any self-induced-oscillation at all!!! no matter which car, which track and which wheel!! RL no race car will have self-induced-oscillation just because u let go of steering wheel. (just keep that in mind!)

Indeed, that's reasonable what you're saying. Therefore I look again in my DRR/DRF settings because I can get rid off wheel oscillation. Additionally I discovered with minor changes I can get some subtle additional forces but only in "homeopathic dose rates". Not even sure if it's better or not.

Additionally I think my Spindle Master & SoP settings might be a little bit to high. This definitely leads also to the oscillation. Actually I just doubled all JS car ffb values to get more amplitudes in the telemetry data and wheel feel. The rest I wanted to sort out with TF and SG. I tested it and reduced TF, SG and MSc in various test cycles - stand alone and in combination. All helped to reduce or eliminate oscillations but I'm not sure what is really better.

Fong74 has some interesting car settings as well which I still not tested at all. I never fiddled with Fx/Fy/Fz/Mz.

GrimeyDog
03-11-2015, 13:42
im done Tweeking for Now...That Last Tweek was My Best Tweek work Yet...When i Next Tweek i already Know which group of Settings im going For...Doing some reserch while im on Tweeker Down time 4 Now...

My Tweek is Still a 1 Stop Tweek Shop... The only thing that Must be adjusted is the Mz... i use Race Cars Mz 100 Mz and any thing Below GT3 i Run Between 80 and 60 Mz depending on Car... EX: the Rocket Bunny Car Feels Good with 80 MB... That doent mean that you cant Tweek the In Car settings... There is alotta Room to Reasonably tweek the In Car settings with No fear of Clipping...I Can Feel Every Bump and Shift of the Road so for Now im done....Well that is until the Tweeker bug Hits again.... LOL

Islandlad77
03-11-2015, 13:54
im done Tweeking for Now...That Last Tweek was My Best Tweek work Yet...When i Next Tweek i already Know which group of Settings im going For...Doing some reserch while im on Tweeker Down time 4 Now...

Grmey I know you have done more than enough on this thread but do you have any global setting for your gt2 wheel. Just somethjng for me to try that's all.

GrimeyDog
03-11-2015, 14:08
Im going to look into it for you

GrimeyDog
03-11-2015, 15:03
Grmey I know you have done more than enough on this thread but do you have any global setting for your gt2 wheel. Just somethjng for me to try that's all.

One thing that most dont account for is Rim Size when doing the Global Settings... V2, V1 & The TM wheels using Larger Rim Sizes will Need a Stronger/Harsher Global due to the Bigger Rim which Gives more Leverage so a Stronger/Harsher Global is Needed to Compensate and Bring out the Feel.... While Gt2/3 , G29 and TM With Regular Rim will Need a Milder Global or the FFB will Feel Too Harsh...The In car Settings Dont really Matter Much... They are there and Can be adjusted to Taste to bring out the FFB from the Global that you want to feel Most.... Its all about a Good Balanced Global then Set the Master in Game FFB to get the Final FFB Strength that is Desired

redruMKO
03-11-2015, 19:02
Gruzzlebeard, I know what you are feeling about DDR and oscillation. I have had my g29 at O.OO, O.O5, O.12, O.15 and O.18 with my different setups, and had that worry more than once.

But I do kind of believe the magic-charts etc that conjure up this value O.18 for my G29. So I kept going back to it, where it is now, and have no oscillation, even in FA cars!.

I know you just said you still have to try another guys car-FFB... If you get around to it, I'd love you to add mine to your list to try... I had read about certain forces being the 'real ones', and even made a thread about it, but no one wanted to pitch-in. It surprises me though, that one of Jack's 6 is not a 'pure' one, if other people are said to be using something like that.

So without any help, here's mine if you ever fancy it... from default, it's basically full Fy with half the amount of Mz, but needs a tiny amount of smoothing, hence I had to double the values and halve the overall Master to compensate. Plus use Jacks Arm Angle, or a click under it [though I suspect that might be wheel specific].
Master Scale [Halve and round up if necessary]
Fx Scale - O.O1 --->Smoothing - O.O
Fy Scale - 2OO.OO -Smoothing - 1O.O
Fz Scale - O.O1 --->Smoothing - O.O
Mz Scale - 1OO.O1 -Smoothing - 1O.O

vahagn_hayk
03-11-2015, 19:50
Indeed, that's reasonable what you're saying. Therefore I look again in my DRR/DRF settings because I can get rid off wheel oscillation. Additionally I discovered with minor changes I can get some subtle additional forces but only in "homeopathic dose rates". Not even sure if it's better or not.

Additionally I think my Spindle Master & SoP settings might be a little bit to high. This definitely leads also to the oscillation. Actually I just doubled all JS car ffb values to get more amplitudes in the telemetry data and wheel feel. The rest I wanted to sort out with TF and SG. I tested it and reduced TF, SG and MSc in various test cycles - stand alone and in combination. All helped to reduce or eliminate oscillations but I'm not sure what is really better.

Fong74 has some interesting car settings as well which I still not tested at all. I never fiddled with Fx/Fy/Fz/Mz.

honestly I think if it works for someone and a group of users that is great! and good news! i appreciate the work, time and effort everyone is putting into this, and believe me I know. all my family...complete race and sim racing fanatics! so i got to adjust and tweak all their PC's and consoles! it is havoc! i have to admit though, the G29 thread is much cleaner, easier and straight forward to read, they build it up very nicely and settings posted are clear and structured, each setting=slider in game. (frankly lol no disrespect, but constructive criticism here...fanatec thread is hard to read...it took me a good 1-2 days to figure out last updated tweaks, what exactly all the settings mean and what they are or could be in game, that is all tweaks, GrimeyDog's, Fong74's and yours gruzzlebeard.) all great, fantastic help and community should be grateful to have racers like you guys amongst us, but maybe there can be cleaner and more structured posts of settings? just food for thought.
PS: i am on the latest drivers and firmware, CSW V2+CSP V2 (and i have CSP V3) gruzzlebeard' settings i get oscillation.
--- tried settings on my uncle's PS4: CSW V2+CSP V3 (gruzzlebeard's) settings = got oscillation
PS: we both have BMW M3 GT2 wheels and Formula Carbon and Steel wheel
we are both running GrimeyDog's settings. (and we completely reinstalled and reset PS4 and pCARS)

vahagn_hayk
03-11-2015, 19:53
One thing that most dont account for is Rim Size when doing the Global Settings... V2, V1 & The TM wheels using Larger Rim Sizes will Need a Stronger/Harsher Global due to the Bigger Rim which Gives more Leverage so a Stronger/Harsher Global is Needed to Compensate and Bring out the Feel.... While Gt2/3 , G29 and TM With Regular Rim will Need a Milder Global or the FFB will Feel Too Harsh...The In car Settings Dont really Matter Much... They are there and Can be adjusted to Taste to bring out the FFB from the Global that you want to feel Most.... Its all about a Good Balanced Global then Set the Master in Game FFB to get the Final FFB Strength that is Desired

GrimeyDog, what do you think running your settings, i should tweak? for BMW M3 GT2 and Formula Steel and Carbon wheels? (FZ and MZ only?)

Crysis81
03-11-2015, 20:40
Hi. I have the latest firmware 756 v226 driver in Porsche 911 GT3 RS V2.The wheel and pedals worked fine, but after a short time stopped work.The Menu of the game it comes to control buttons on the steering wheel, but control of cars not in the game.Wheel does not work on PS3.You know advise me where is the problem?Thank you."

GrimeyDog
03-11-2015, 21:12
GrimeyDog, what do you think running your settings, i should tweak? for BMW M3 GT2 and Formula Steel and Carbon wheels? (FZ and MZ only?)

Depending on what you want to Feel More of...what are you triyng to get more feel out of.. im using the Hub with the Forza Branded Rim... its a tab bit heavyer than the Porshe Rim but the extra weight is Not Blocking any FFB Feel imo.

vahagn_hayk
03-11-2015, 22:05
Depending on what you want to Feel More of...what are you triyng to get more feel out of.. im using the Hub with the Forza Branded Rim... its a tab bit heavyer than the Porshe Rim but the extra weight is Not Blocking any FFB Feel imo.

on both wheels, LMP's, open wheels and GT3, GT4 over kurbs such strong feedback almost rips wheels from my hands or cars just snap over. (back ends come around without delay)

GrimeyDog
03-11-2015, 22:27
on both wheels, LMP's, open wheels and GT3, GT4 over kurbs such strong feedback almost rips wheels from my hands or cars just snap over. (back ends come around without delay)

Ok Lower the 'FZ" and SOP Differential from 100 to 80... keep lowering those settings by 10 until you have the feel you want... those settings should always be set at the same # value.

vahagn_hayk
03-11-2015, 22:43
Ok Lower the 'FZ" and SOP Differential from 100 to 80... keep lowering those settings by 10 until you have the feel you want... those settings should always be set at the same # value.

very good, will do! thanks and will post results of course. thanks!

GrimeyDog
03-11-2015, 23:28
Audi 90 quattro IMSA GTO Watkins Glen short.... Enjoy

Just giving a example of how the in car FFB Can be tweeked per car with My FFB Global settings.... The in car settings are just there to bring out the FFB feel that you want to feel most.

In this case its a 4 wheel drive car so we want to get more road feel from the Wheel so we bump the Fy up a tad bit to add More wheel weight... FWD and AWD seems to Need more Fy to boost the wheel weight.

Because its AWD the Mz still needs to be set High because you need to feel the Snappy feel of what the Front wheels are Doing.... Normally cars lower than GT3 get Lower MZ depending on car feel but because its AWD? FWD Higher MZ is Needed to maintain a good feel to see if the front tires are gripping or sliding.


Master Scale 100
Fx 2.00
Fy 50.01
Fz 100.01
Mz 90.01

all smoothing 0.0

All Body scale 0.0

SOP Scale 100
Sop Lateral 10.0
Sop Diff 100.0
Sop Damp 0.0


This FFB works on every track... Remember the FFB is there only to provide you with information about the Road, Bumps, Curbs, weight transfer/Loss of Grip ETC... so you know when to push or back off...Good FFB feel Will Help you get better laps but does Not alter or make cars Handle better... That is what suspension tuning is for. GrimeyDog 101


And the Next Car is??? Your pick...

-Brick_Top-
04-11-2015, 08:15
And the Next Car is??? Your pick...

Formula a on spa or monza please :D

vahagn_hayk
04-11-2015, 12:29
Ok Lower the 'FZ" and SOP Differential from 100 to 80... keep lowering those settings by 10 until you have the feel you want... those settings should always be set at the same # value.

so far only tested with Audi R8 GT3 on Brno, and had to tweak:
Master Scale=80
SoP Scale=80
FZ=50
SoP Diff=60

any small value above those numbers, wheel starts to ratller and go into self induced oscillation.

Fong74
04-11-2015, 12:38
If you want to achieve a FFB that comes closer to a real car, cut that SoP stuff out. I liked it a lot, but once turning it off, I feel better overall. More confidence in what I feel etc

GrimeyDog
04-11-2015, 13:53
so far only tested with Audi R8 GT3 on Brno, and had to tweak:
Master Scale=80
SoP Scale=80
FZ=50
SoP Diff=60

any small value above those numbers, wheel starts to ratller and go into self induced oscillation.

I Havent Noticed any Rattle or Ocillation... Maybe its there and It just doesnt bother me... I dunno... but Thats what Tweeking is all about... The Global Settings are the Settings that are Most Important... The in car settings can and are Supposed to be Tweeked to Bring out the Feel you want Most...you can even add Smoothing or damping to the in car if you Need or want it.

GrimeyDog
04-11-2015, 14:08
If you want to achieve a FFB that comes closer to a real car, cut that SoP stuff out. I liked it a lot, but once turning it off, I feel better overall. More confidence in what I feel etc

I Love the SoP... for Me it Give Real info about what the back of the Car is Doing...

I Drive In Car View with Camra Shake On, im using 2x Buttkickers 1 for Left and 1 for Right...I try to get it a Close to the Real thing as i can...also use Head phones so i can Hear every little Skid or Slide

Fong74
04-11-2015, 14:17
Sure, Grimey, it gives some kind of additional Feedback. This is what makes pCars FFB so special imo. Its an aditional channel. I like it, too. But we surely aggree that our real life cars steering wheels do not impose such forces on our arms (putting steering assists aside in that context), those forces are imposed on our whole bodies. So I really think that turnung SoP off gives you a wheel behaviour that is closer to RL.

I realised that I can do more consistent laps over race lenghths of ca 90 minutes without SoP. So I leave it off for the time being as those are the races I run and prepare for.

But as stated before, its all a matter of taste meanwhile as we are talking about the last "5-10%" maybe. All tweaks found here are great and one can feel that there was plenty of effort put into creating them.

redruMKO
04-11-2015, 15:56
So I really think that turnung SoP off gives you a wheel behaviour that is closer to RL.

I didn't want to bring this up in threads that were getting flamey already, but seeing as you are taking the 'pure' approach too...

Personally, I find it easier and faster with the most realistic FFB. But actually, even if I liked all the extra forces, and they made me faster, I don't think it is a clever thing to do.

If / when the times comes that I lose traction / balance in real life, I would like my muscle-memory / naturally-trained reactions to have the best chance of saving lives.

GrimeyDog
04-11-2015, 16:12
Sure, Grimey, it gives some kind of additional Feedback. This is what makes pCars FFB so special imo. Its an aditional channel. I like it, too. But we surely aggree that our real life cars steering wheels do not impose such forces on our arms (putting steering assists aside in that context), those forces are imposed on our whole bodies. So I really think that turnung SoP off gives you a wheel behaviour that is closer to RL.

I realised that I can do more consistent laps over race lenghths of ca 90 minutes without SoP. So I leave it off for the time being as those are the races I run and prepare for.

But as stated before, its all a matter of taste meanwhile as we are talking about the last "5-10%" maybe. All tweaks found here are great and one can feel that there was plenty of effort put into creating them.

Im Testing out adding More FX(Front of car) to Balance out the SoP Lat... i can feel the wheel weight change adding more FX gives to balance the Rear SoP lat... Feels good... running laps to see if i like it or Not.... i been running Low FX sooo long im used to it.

Also FFB is also a Matter of upper Body/Arm Strength i like a Strong wheel what Feels like a Bump/Rumble to me Can Feel like a Earth Quake to others... LOL

Fong74
04-11-2015, 16:24
Im Testing out adding More FX(Front of car) to Balance out the SoP Lat... i can feel the wheel weight change adding more FX gives to balance the Rear SoP lat... Feels good... running laps to see if i like it or Not.... i been running Low FX sooo long im used to it.

Also FFB is also a Matter of upper Body/Arm Strength i like a Strong wheel what Feels like a Bump/Rumble to me Can Feel like a Earth Quake to others... LOL

Same here Grimey. Like it quite heavy, too in general. In pCars I set it strong enough, so I can feel the subtle rumbles while banging down the straights. Not more, as heavy wheels make you slower when it comes to lap times. All pro drivers run no or almost no FFB at all. With Logitech G27s they used to pull the power cable when they had to perform for real... Thats no joke. I know some of those guys and there is something to it for real. Me, I dont care for ultimate lap times. I drive for the fun of it. So some middle ground between the two extremes is what I aim for.

vahagn_hayk
04-11-2015, 16:35
so what does SoP really do? what it is for? (does it cover something up? add something fake it? masking?)
if you turn off SoP to 0/0/0/0...?
i thought Master scale and SoP scale are to go hand in hand always same values?

has anyone changed Arm Angle to different value on LMP's? open wheelers? GT3 or GT4 vehicles? what does that change or how does that effect the balance?

Cuba
04-11-2015, 17:16
Any CSW V2 users running Windows 10 with Driver 219 installed? If so, any issues? I'd like to upgrade to W10, but not sure if Fanatec supports it.
Thx!

gruzzlebeard
04-11-2015, 17:16
so what does SoP really do? what it is for? (does it cover something up? add something fake it? masking?)
if you turn off SoP to 0/0/0/0...?
i thought Master scale and SoP scale are to go hand in hand always same values?

has anyone changed Arm Angle to different value on LMP's? open wheelers? GT3 or GT4 vehicles? what does that change or how does that effect the balance?

It's all about simulating G-Forces (e.g. during braking, cornering, accelerating) impacting a car/driver. SoP = Seat of Pants & Body are parameters which you can adjust in the Car FFB. These parameters are feed-in by the physic engine. The engine sends data like rear side load, rear vertical load etc. They can be mixed into the overall FFB (together with the tire forces) and should give you a G-Force feel in the steering wheel - it's of course a bit academically but could be useful to feel what your rear of the car is doing if you are able to find the right values. If you mix in all together without sense you get of course an oversaturated FFB.

redruMKO
04-11-2015, 17:48
....i thought Master scale and SoP scale are to go hand in hand always same values?

has anyone changed Arm Angle to different value on LMP's? open wheelers? GT3 or GT4 vehicles? what does that change or how does that effect the balance?

That's for Jacks 6 flavours of Setups, the default ones [which Jack use himself?!] have zero SOP.

And the Arm Angle has a huge impact, have a little test, 3OO or so up or down at a time. [Practice Mode on something like Azure Stage 1 so you have prewarmed tires, but can keep editing tuning without going back to front end menu]

I find Jack's values or a click below feel good to me.

GrimeyDog
04-11-2015, 19:35
https://youtu.be/s_hnGt3M34g


Steering gain VS 100% in Game FFB.... Results will surprise many!!! Try it for you self and see!!!

vahagn_hayk
05-11-2015, 04:43
GrimeyDog! tried again your settings with Watkins Glen, Monza and Brno with Aston Martin GTE and GT3, wow! wow and wow! wonderful and thanks again for all your help and efforts!!!

Fre.Mo
05-11-2015, 07:08
https://youtu.be/s_hnGt3M34g


Steering gain VS 100% in Game FFB.... Results will surprise many!!! Try it for you self and see!!!

The relevant comparison of the ffb graph should not be Steering Gain Vs. Tire Force, with constant ffb? ( in order to compare the effect of the gain at the begining or at the end of the process).

Pappa_Stig
05-11-2015, 11:31
How much Fx do you guys use? I only ask because I was playing around with ffb tonight, and decided to see what each parameter felt like on it's own. I tried them one at a time, turned well up, with everything else turned down. I found Fx did next to nothing, and basically only really did anything when I hit the brakes while turning. If that's more or less it's biggest contribution to the overall feel, why use it at all? Mz does the same thing when you brake, the ffb is stronger, but it also does plenty of other things, so why would I want the ffb getting stronger under brakes to be coming from two sources?

I'm relatively new at playing around so much with this stuff, and I just want a good feel. Fz is very subtle, but does what it says on the tin, Fy helps weight the wheel, I get that too, and then Mz seems like it does enough to run passable ffb on it's own without the others. I feel like with Fz highest, Mz a bit below it, and Fy a fair bit lower, it feels pretty good without Fx at all. Adding Fx doesn't seem to make it any better.

With the SoP settings, lateral seems weak as hell, even maxxed out it does f all on it's own, but differential is brilliant. It is the single best thing for oversteer. With that setting alone, when the car oversteers, the wheel will spin to opposite lock like in a real car.

So from what I can see I can use SoP differential, Fy, Fz, and Mz, and just put Fx and SoP lateral at 0 and I get great feedback. Am I missing something? I know you guys know a lot more than me about these settings, so is there really any benefit to Fx and SoP lateral?

Fong74
05-11-2015, 11:36
This is the best reference I know when it comes to pCars FFB (including all Links and sites) and Im sure you will find something intersesting there when it comes to the named parameters:
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&p=891198&viewfull=1#post891198

My current values are in my sig. I feel very comfortable with those. Stopped using SoP so far as it fels more like a RL cars wheel to me.

Concerning Fx (from the above linked Q&A)

Q: I want more of braking vibration.
A: Experiment with SpindleFxScale value.

Sankyo
05-11-2015, 11:37
How much Fx do you guys use? I only ask because I was playing around with ffb tonight, and decided to see what each parameter felt like on it's own. I tried them one at a time, turned well up, with everything else turned down. I found Fx did next to nothing, and basically only really did anything when I hit the brakes while turning. If that's more or less it's biggest contribution to the overall feel, why use it at all? Mz does the same thing when you brake, the ffb is stronger, but it also does plenty of other things, so why would I want the ffb getting stronger under brakes to be coming from two sources?

I'm relatively new at playing around so much with this stuff, and I just want a good feel. Fz is very subtle, but does what it says on the tin, Fy helps weight the wheel, I get that too, and then Mz seems like it does enough to run passable ffb on it's own without the others. I feel like with Fz highest, Mz a bit below it, and Fy a fair bit lower, it feels pretty good without Fx at all. Adding Fx doesn't seem to make it any better.

With the SoP settings, lateral seems weak as hell, even maxxed out it does f all on it's own, but differential is brilliant. It is the single best thing for oversteer. With that setting alone, when the car oversteers, the wheel will spin to opposite lock like in a real car.

So from what I can see I can use SoP differential, Fy, Fz, and Mz, and just put Fx and SoP lateral at 0 and I get great feedback. Am I missing something? I know you guys know a lot more than me about these settings, so is there really any benefit to Fx and SoP lateral?
Spot-on analysis as far as I'm concerned.
As for Fx, AFAIK it's a real effect but whether you put it in is really a matter of taste. Given that the FFB is used to convey everything about the car and the tyres, having one less effect in it may be beneficial for your driving if that effect doesn't help you much. Playability vs realism I would say :)

Pappa_Stig
05-11-2015, 12:02
Spot-on analysis as far as I'm concerned.
As for Fx, AFAIK it's a real effect but whether you put it in is really a matter of taste. Given that the FFB is used to convey everything about the car and the tyres, having one less effect in it may be beneficial for your driving if that effect doesn't help you much. Playability vs realism I would say :)

Thanks for the prompt replies guys. On Fx, I know it does add a real effect under brakes, but my problem is that Mz has a very strong effect on braking, which can easily lead to clipping. I like the other effects of Mz, but they aren't as powerful as it's effect under brakes. Even using Jack Spade's Classic settings, which tends to have high Fz and not very high Mz, the Mz effect under brakes still sends the ffb graph into a flatline.

On SoP settings not feeling realistic, I would have agreed if the wheel behaved like a real car wheel when sliding the rear without the SoP diff setting. As it is, without SoP diff, the only things that will effect the wheel when sliding are Mz and Fy, and neither of those will spin it into opposite lock as you'd expect in a real car, they both kind of jolt it around a bit. SoP lateral doesn't feel realistic at all though, I don't use that setting.

Perhaps I should run lower Mz, and try to weight the wheel with the Fy a bit more, and use some Fx for brake shudder, I dunno. Am I right in thinking Mz is the setting to use to feel the front wheels reaching, and exceeding, their grip limits?

vahagn_hayk
05-11-2015, 12:12
This is the best reference I know when it comes to pCars FFB (including all Links and sites) and Im sure you will find something intersesting there when it comes to the named parameters:
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&p=891198&viewfull=1#post891198

My current values are in my sig. I feel very comfortable with those. Stopped using SoP so far as it fels more like a RL cars wheel to me.

Concerning Fx (from the above linked Q&A)

Q: I want more of braking vibration.
A: Experiment with SpindleFxScale value.

Fong74, you wrote u stopped using SoP, just curious in your signature, you have 0/10/10/0 (SoP values), does your post mean your sig is not updated to reflect 0/0/0/0 or your post you meant use a little SoP? sorry to ask, but i am testing different settings of other fellow Fanatec CSW V2 users, just want to make sure sigs/ settings and etc are updated and correct.

vahagn_hayk
05-11-2015, 12:15
Thanks for the prompt replies guys. On Fx, I know it does add a real effect under brakes, but my problem is that Mz has a very strong effect on braking, which can easily lead to clipping. I like the other effects of Mz, but they aren't as powerful as it's effect under brakes. Even using Jack Spade's Classic settings, which tends to have high Fz and not very high Mz, the Mz effect under brakes still sends the ffb graph into a flatline.

On SoP settings not feeling realistic, I would have agreed if the wheel behaved like a real car wheel when sliding the rear without the SoP diff setting. As it is, without SoP diff, the only things that will effect the wheel when sliding are Mz and Fy, and neither of those will spin it into opposite lock as you'd expect in a real car, they both kind of jolt it around a bit. SoP lateral doesn't feel realistic at all though, I don't use that setting.

Perhaps I should run lower Mz, and try to weight the wheel with the Fy a bit more, and use some Fx for brake shudder, I dunno. Am I right in thinking Mz is the setting to use to feel the front wheels reaching, and exceeding, their grip limits?
very curious in what you find out and how you put your settings! analysis you posted sounded very understandable and clearly to some extend exactly match the "experience" i had with playing/ testing those sliders independently.

Fanapryde
05-11-2015, 12:22
These FFB settings are growing over my head I'm afraid.
I'm on PC / V2.
I am fairly happy with the feeling of my wheel, but on some curbs my wheel almost rattles out of my hands.
Which setting(s) is (are) responsible for that ?

Pappa_Stig
05-11-2015, 12:28
Just for reference, I'm using a Fanatec CSR, and my main FFB settings were sourced from a member here who recommended them (sorry i can't remember who now), and they felt immediately good, just needing myself to alter in car settings to maximise feel of each car. Initially I would start with settings like Fx 80 Fy 30 Fz 100 Mz 130, and SoP lateral 30 SoP diff 70, and then take the car out to see how it felt and then come back in and adjust according to feel.

I got to those base settings in the open wheelers in career, as the FB and FA had quite a pronounced front grip loss when understeering using the higher Mz. I've since found, while driving old cars like the Mk IV and some road cars, that these settings are far from ideal in those cars. This is why I'm just now revisiting ffb, with a more serious attitude this time. My next step is to experiment with soft clipping to see how compressing the higher forces feels with my wheel. I understand my wheel isn't very strong, but I'm trying to have my cake and eat it too, in that I'm wanting decent ffb strength without it clipping too easily.

It doesn't help that I have conflicting goals of maximising the ffb strength of my wheel, and spending 6 days a week in the gym building strength... I know... I'm an idiot. I should just try to lose as much strength as possible, and then it'd be like a ffb upgrade to my wheel! :D

Honestly, at this point I've got the ffb feeling good, and the only clipping occurs under brakes, but this does bug me slightly. Perhaps I shouldn't be so picky lol. Is it really a big deal to be flatlining the ffb meter when braking hard and steering? I really wish I could somehow convince the Mrs of my need for a CSW V2 lol. Then I could have much stronger ffb without clipping. As it is, it's hard enough to explain why my car needs coilovers, or a better boost controller, and I get real driving pleasure out of that. Perhaps I should think myself lucky I have a wheel at all haha.

Sankyo
05-11-2015, 12:29
On SoP settings not feeling realistic, I would have agreed if the wheel behaved like a real car wheel when sliding the rear without the SoP diff setting. As it is, without SoP diff, the only things that will effect the wheel when sliding are Mz and Fy, and neither of those will spin it into opposite lock as you'd expect in a real car, they both kind of jolt it around a bit. SoP lateral doesn't feel realistic at all though, I don't use that setting.

Is SoP enabled by default? I think it's not (I'm more or less running default FFB with my CSW v2), and I'm 100% sure that when the rear end starts sliding, the steering wheel automatically turns to opposite lock even without SoP. This isn't even FFB, this is car physics because the front wheels will choose the path of least resistance, meaning the they keep rolling into the direction in which they were already rolling when the rear breaks out. And that means that w.r.t. the car they are turning, so that the steering wheel will also turn.

GrimeyDog
05-11-2015, 13:20
How much Fx do you guys use? I only ask because I was playing around with ffb tonight, and decided to see what each parameter felt like on it's own. I tried them one at a time, turned well up, with everything else turned down. I found Fx did next to nothing, and basically only really did anything when I hit the brakes while turning. If that's more or less it's biggest contribution to the overall feel, why use it at all? Mz does the same thing when you brake, the ffb is stronger, but it also does plenty of other things, so why would I want the ffb getting stronger under brakes to be coming from two sources?

I'm relatively new at playing around so much with this stuff, and I just want a good feel. Fz is very subtle, but does what it says on the tin, Fy helps weight the wheel, I get that too, and then Mz seems like it does enough to run passable ffb on it's own without the others. I feel like with Fz highest, Mz a bit below it, and Fy a fair bit lower, it feels pretty good without Fx at all. Adding Fx doesn't seem to make it any better.

With the SoP settings, lateral seems weak as hell, even maxxed out it does f all on it's own, but differential is brilliant. It is the single best thing for oversteer. With that setting alone, when the car oversteers, the wheel will spin to opposite lock like in a real car.

So from what I can see I can use SoP differential, Fy, Fz, and Mz, and just put Fx and SoP lateral at 0 and I get great feedback. Am I missing something? I know you guys know a lot more than me about these settings, so is there really any benefit to Fx and SoP lateral?

Exactly Fx is the Nose of the Car that setting i feel very Little also... I only use 2.0 of it... It Gives a Little Benefit when yhe other settings are Mixed in Right... Its all about Balance.

GrimeyDog
05-11-2015, 13:35
The relevant comparison of the ffb graph should not be Steering Gain Vs. Tire Force, with constant ffb? ( in order to compare the effect of the gain at the begining or at the end of the process).

That wasn't Steering Gain VS Tire Force...

That was Steering Gain VS In Game master FFB comparison to Show that you Dont Lose Dynamic FFB because you use Less than 100% in Game FFB.

The Video Clearly Shows that Reducing the FFB to 0, 35(My Standard FFB) or 100% in Game FFB Has No Effect on the FFB Graph but the Effects can be Felt in the Wheel.... Also the Video Clearly Shows that when you Reduce the Steering Gain as Suggested by Jack Spade that you Do Lose Dynamic FFB Range... Watch the Video Again tou will See that Reducing the Steering Gain actually Reduces the Size of the FFB graph... the FFB Spikes will No Longer use the Full FFB WSpikesbut will still Hit a Invisible Top and Bottom Box Limit...Reducing Steering Gain Does Nothing to Reduce or Limit FFB Graph Line Clipping... its all about Good Balanced Global Settings.

Fong74
05-11-2015, 13:36
Fong74, you wrote u stopped using SoP, just curious in your signature, you have 0/10/10/0 (SoP values), does your post mean your sig is not updated to reflect 0/0/0/0 or your post you meant use a little SoP? sorry to ask, but i am testing different settings of other fellow Fanatec CSW V2 users, just want to make sure sigs/ settings and etc are updated and correct.

Sig is completely up to date. But its good that you ask, because it made me check my former settings and I was in fact using body and no SoP. I got confused while trying all that stuff lately as it seems. So sorry for that misleading post of mine :o

Former settings (which is the default on PS4)
| Car-FFb, Body & SOP | Body Scale/Long. Scale/Stiffness/Damping 0/0/100/100 | SoP Scale/Lateral/Diff/Damp 0/0/0/0

Currently:
| Car-FFb, Body & SOP | Body Scale/Long. Scale/Stiffness/Damping 0/0/0/0 | SoP Scale/Lateral/Diff/Damp 0/10/10/0


Is SoP enabled by default? I think it's not (I'm more or less running default FFB with my CSW v2), and I'm 100% sure that when the rear end starts sliding, the steering wheel automatically turns to opposite lock even without SoP. This isn't even FFB, this is car physics because the front wheels will choose the path of least resistance, meaning the they keep rolling into the direction in which they were already rolling when the rear breaks out. And that means that w.r.t. the car they are turning, so that the steering wheel will also turn.

Correct, Remco. Its not.

Fong74
05-11-2015, 13:48
Honestly, at this point I've got the ffb feeling good, and the only clipping occurs under brakes, but this does bug me slightly. Perhaps I shouldn't be so picky lol. Is it really a big deal to be flatlining the ffb meter when braking hard and steering? I really wish I could somehow convince the Mrs of my need for a CSW V2 lol. Then I could have much stronger ffb without clipping. As it is, it's hard enough to explain why my car needs coilovers, or a better boost controller, and I get real driving pleasure out of that. Perhaps I should think myself lucky I have a wheel at all haha.

You really should. The difference is so massive in every aspect that its worth the money. At least for me it was. Thats true for every title, but especially for pCars with all those FFB tweaking options.

I got my Fanatec stuff piece by piece. Got the CSPs and attached them to my CSR (which is my backup wheel now; my first Fana was a PWTS). Then the CSWv1 with Formula rim. Sold both and upgraded to CSWv2. Then sold the CSPv1 and got the v2s as they were on a sale at that time. So what I want to say is: you dont need to spend a lot of money for the whole setup at once if you already have a CSR. I bet the CSPs will boost your experience very much already. Going for the CSWv2 at first is always an option, if financially feasible, of course.

vahagn_hayk
05-11-2015, 14:19
These FFB settings are growing over my head I'm afraid.
I'm on PC / V2.
I am fairly happy with the feeling of my wheel, but on some curbs my wheel almost rattles out of my hands.
Which setting(s) is (are) responsible for that ?

there are guys here who 100% know it better, but as i read and understand everything, it is "Fz" responsible for curbs (North American English), or kerbs (British English) effects.

gruzzlebeard
05-11-2015, 15:20
These FFB settings are growing over my head I'm afraid.
I'm on PC / V2.
I am fairly happy with the feeling of my wheel, but on some curbs my wheel almost rattles out of my hands.
Which setting(s) is (are) responsible for that ?


there are guys here who 100% know it better, but as i read and understand everything, it is "Fz" responsible for curbs (North American English), or kerbs (British English) effects.

correct - with Fz Scale you can change the "Vertical Load" signals coming from the tire physics.

Fanapryde
05-11-2015, 16:58
Thanks much guys !

Pappa_Stig
05-11-2015, 21:50
Is SoP enabled by default? I think it's not (I'm more or less running default FFB with my CSW v2), and I'm 100% sure that when the rear end starts sliding, the steering wheel automatically turns to opposite lock even without SoP. This isn't even FFB, this is car physics because the front wheels will choose the path of least resistance, meaning the they keep rolling into the direction in which they were already rolling when the rear breaks out. And that means that w.r.t. the car they are turning, so that the steering wheel will also turn.

Interesting. That's what I initially assumed, but many cars I've tried made me think the ffb settings were altering this effect. Some cars the wheel just doesn't spin at all when the back steps out, and in these I've noticed adding SoP diff seems to solve it somewhat. The Ford Mk IV I was using last night was really bad for it. Without SoP diff the wheel didn't want to turn into counter steer by itself at all. It'd lighten up some, allowing me to counter steer, but it didn't try to spin into opposite lock by itself. Adding SoP diff definitely helped, but it still didn't feel great. Thanks for the clarification though, it's now making me think I should have been looking into caster and perhaps even toe to remedy this.




You really should. The difference is so massive in every aspect that its worth the money. At least for me it was. Thats true for every title, but especially for pCars with all those FFB tweaking options.

I got my Fanatec stuff piece by piece. Got the CSPs and attached them to my CSR (which is my backup wheel now; my first Fana was a PWTS). Then the CSWv1 with Formula rim. Sold both and upgraded to CSWv2. Then sold the CSPv1 and got the v2s as they were on a sale at that time. So what I want to say is: you dont need to spend a lot of money for the whole setup at once if you already have a CSR. I bet the CSPs will boost your experience very much already. Going for the CSWv2 at first is always an option, if financially feasible, of course.

Yeah the CSR is a great budget wheel, I got mine off a friend for $150aud, basically brand new, as he only used it for a couple of months, but never got into it (sim racing). I also have CSP V1s, bought from another friend, who used them for two years in iRacing, and then sat them in his workshop (he's a mechanic) where they gathered dust literally for 3 years. I paid $100aud for the CSPs, pulled them apart and gave them a thorough clean up, and they work like brand new. Brilliant pedal set, they've made a huge difference to my sim driving. I built my own rig for my gear, so my set up only cost me $250aud, which is half the rrp of a T300 or G29.

The big problem for me, is a CSW V2 base is $989aud! Which I just can't justify, despite how great it is. Not to mention I'd need rims, and the cheapest formula rim is even $300aud, with the better rims more like $600. I'd want a round rim as well as a formula rim, so that's bring the purchase up to almost $2000! For that price I could get a new set of coilovers for my car, or a standalone ecu, or a great number of other big upgrades that I'd like. Where I live, I'm a stone's throw away from heaps of roads that are way better to drive than any circuit on any sim, not to mention actually driving is far more exciting. So my problem is, if I am to convince to Mrs that I need to be spending thousands of dollars on something of only a benefit to myself (We have a son, so that's where my money usually goes lol), then I'm not likely to put sim gear ahead of my car.

Winning the lottery would solve all of these problems haha.

Sankyo
06-11-2015, 08:38
Interesting. That's what I initially assumed, but many cars I've tried made me think the ffb settings were altering this effect. Some cars the wheel just doesn't spin at all when the back steps out, and in these I've noticed adding SoP diff seems to solve it somewhat. The Ford Mk IV I was using last night was really bad for it. Without SoP diff the wheel didn't want to turn into counter steer by itself at all. It'd lighten up some, allowing me to counter steer, but it didn't try to spin into opposite lock by itself. Adding SoP diff definitely helped, but it still didn't feel great. Thanks for the clarification though, it's now making me think I should have been looking into caster and perhaps even toe to remedy this.

It may well be that the car's design, geometry, weight distrubition, suspension geometry and set-up all influence how the front moves when the back steps out, and hence whether the front wheels self-align better or worse, or that they just start sliding/go into oversteer as well. Getting way outside my knowledge/experience now :D

Pappa_Stig
06-11-2015, 10:19
It may well be that the car's design, geometry, weight distrubition, suspension geometry and set-up all influence how the front moves when the back steps out, and hence whether the front wheels self-align better or worse, or that they just start sliding/go into oversteer as well. Getting way outside my knowledge/experience now :D

Yeah cheers mate, I should have known better, but obviously got lost in the thick fog of ffb settings the game offers. If I had've taken a step back and thought about it, it would've cllicked that adding positive caster will aid self alignment and steering of the front wheels. Your comment did snap me out of my train of thought though, which got me on the right track, so cheers for that! Added some positive caster to the Mk IV and it's self steering nicely now. :)

vahagn_hayk
13-11-2015, 04:12
to all FANATEC CSW V2 + CSP V2 users, this is a from a friend:
"I have the issue, that when I join a session/ a lobby is created (1) practice (2) qualification (3) warmup (4) race, all goes well and without problems. Once the host or any other host starts a new session/ new lobby, my wheel becomes twitchy/ the steering is completely off, and the CSP V2 pedals are no longer throttle and brake, but they are L2 and L3. I have to disconnect and reconnect the pedals on the USB to get this corrected, and 95% of the time, have to restart the game to have the CSW V2 also work properly/ and correctly again. explanation: (1) CSW V2 is connected to PS4 directly (2) CSP V2 is connected through hub (3) PS4 gold headset is connected to PS4 directly. (using Hootoo 7-port powered hub)"

since I don't have this problem with my CSW V2 + CSP V3, thought i would ask the Fanatec users here, maybe you guys have recommendations or solution for my buddy.

thanks

GrimeyDog
13-11-2015, 12:25
to all FANATEC CSW V2 + CSP V2 users, this is a from a friend:
"I have the issue, that when I join a session/ a lobby is created (1) practice (2) qualification (3) warmup (4) race, all goes well and without problems. Once the host or any other host starts a new session/ new lobby, my wheel becomes twitchy/ the steering is completely off, and the CSP V2 pedals are no longer throttle and brake, but they are L2 and L3. I have to disconnect and reconnect the pedals on the USB to get this corrected, and 95% of the time, have to restart the game to have the CSW V2 also work properly/ and correctly again. explanation: (1) CSW V2 is connected to PS4 directly (2) CSP V2 is connected through hub (3) PS4 gold headset is connected to PS4 directly. (using Hootoo 7-port powered hub)"

since I don't have this problem with my CSW V2 + CSP V3, thought i would ask the Fanatec users here, maybe you guys have recommendations or solution for my buddy.

thanks

Its the 7 port Hub IMO...im using a 4 port hub but i have V2 plugged into PS4 pedals through wheel with Head set and keyboard through Hub....I think he needs to put pedals through the wheel and Head set through the Hub.

Sum Dixon-Ear
13-11-2015, 13:54
Ooooh... shiny new thing...
https://www.facebook.com/Fanatec/photos/a.319489148127088.75279.113736022035736/925431757532821/?type=3&theater
221996

Sankyo
13-11-2015, 14:06
Ooooh... shiny new thing...
https://www.facebook.com/Fanatec/photos/a.319489148127088.75279.113736022035736/925431757532821/?type=3&theater
221996

Hmmm I've seen that before...

vahagn_hayk
13-11-2015, 18:41
Its the 7 port Hub IMO...im using a 4 port hub but i have V2 plugged into PS4 pedals through wheel with Head set and keyboard through Hub....I think he needs to put pedals through the wheel and Head set through the Hub.
thanks GrimeyDog, will let him know and good point! (if he hasn't already tested it)

Gloomy
13-11-2015, 22:25
Do the clubsport pedals v3 work with the porsche gt3 wheel on ps4.

I just got the v3 pedals and don't see a way to connect them, I wasn't planning on upgrading my wheel to the clubsport for a few months.

Sankyo
14-11-2015, 07:23
Do the clubsport pedals v3 work with the porsche gt3 wheel on ps4.

I just got the v3 pedals and don't see a way to connect them, I wasn't planning on upgrading my wheel to the clubsport for a few months.

You'll have to use a PS2-RJ12 adapter cable. Isn't that supplied with the pedals?

Gloomy
14-11-2015, 09:47
You'll have to use a PS2-RJ12 adapter cable. Isn't that supplied with the pedals?

No, it didn't come with it. I can order one, I just wasn't sure if I used one it would have full functionality. I think i read that the v2 came with that cable, I'm coming from the csr elites which has a ps/2-ps/2 cable. I'm debating now if I should just get the clubsport wheel early for myself. I've been wanting it for awhile, its just alot of money.

Titzon Toast
14-11-2015, 12:34
New Fanatec Wheel Teaser

Thomas Jackermeier of Fanatec posted a teaser picture revealing a new Fanatec Racing wheel. At the time of writing, no specifications or details are shared.

On the Fanatec blog, Thomas states that the ” new generation” tagged wheel is already in stock in Europe and the USA and that the wheel will be on sale starting next week.

The three spoke rim features a build in Fanatec settings display, top center led and at least three colored buttons on the right wheel spoke. The picture also reveals what seems to be a Xbox One logo or button and paddle shifters. Taking into account that this image is radial blurred, the grey line next to the left shifter paddle might indicate a button on the left side.

Furthermore, it is not yet clear if this will be an addon wheel or standalone product, but we assume it is the latter.

Our best guess is that this wheel will be aimed at the console market and will have a more console scene friendly price tag to compete with Logitech and Thrustmaster products. Keep in mind we could be totally wrong, But with the wheel already in stock, we will find out soon enough.

vahagn_hayk
14-11-2015, 20:27
has anyone have FFB issues, session to session being out of whack the FFB feeling/ the wheel? feeling completely twitchy?
(CSW V2 + CSP V2, connected via PS2 cable to CSW V2 base and USB to PS4 no hub, direct)

GrimeyDog
19-11-2015, 12:18
has anyone have FFB issues, session to session being out of whack the FFB feeling/ the wheel? feeling completely twitchy?
(CSW V2 + CSP V2, connected via PS2 cable to CSW V2 base and USB to PS4 no hub, direct)

I Had to delete the Game and all content, Hard Drive and Cloud Game save...Now the FFB is Back to Normal....Also before i did the Total Reset My Tires were Fried in 2 Laps!!! Since the Total Reset My Tire Temps are Much Better.

Edit: I lost FFB a Few Times at Oulton park GP... Very Strange!!! Same part of the track every time on same 2 curves...but I Need to Make sure all the Screws on My Wheel Hub are Tight before i post Loss of FFB as a issue... I will Check when i get off work and post my findings.

vahagn_hayk
19-11-2015, 12:31
same is happening with G29 users, have had my cousin same loss of FFB and another buddy racing with G29 same symptoms

vahagn_hayk
21-11-2015, 15:17
has anyone tested the new firmware for CSW V2 and CSP V3? they releases it yesterday I think.

Sankyo
21-11-2015, 19:19
has anyone tested the new firmware for CSW V2 and CSP V3? they releases it yesterday I think.

I quickly tested the CSW v2 firmware and found nothing weird. CSP v3 I updated today but haven't gotten to any racing yet after that.

Fong74
21-11-2015, 19:30
The new firmware is for the new rim mainly I guess?

Or does it improve anything relevant Remco?

GrimeyDog
22-11-2015, 07:25
The new firmware is for the new rim mainly I guess?

Or does it improve anything relevant Remco?
"
so far with 6.0 and the Newest Fanatec FW with Pcars the "MZ" setting seems to work and feel different...its reversed cars i used 100 MZ Now use use 50 or the steering feels too sharp and cars that i used to Run with Lower MZ with Now the MZ must be set Higher or the steering feels lazy....stange:confused:

Edit: Never Mind i figured it out.

Linx
22-11-2015, 07:39
Hey can anyone confirm if the Fanatec handbrake works with Pcars on PS4?

Sankyo
22-11-2015, 10:45
The new firmware is for the new rim mainly I guess?

Or does it improve anything relevant Remco?

It's mostly for the CSL P1 rim, yes, but there are also some general improvements that haven't been disclosed as in general not relevant to know for customers ;)

vahagn_hayk
22-11-2015, 16:14
did not find any CSW V2 info with new FW but in other forums they do talk about changes in new FW also for CSW V2 but nobody has info, there is a Fanatest user here, he might know better

GrimeyDog
22-11-2015, 20:56
"
so far with 6.0 and the Newest Fanatec FW with Pcars the "MZ" setting seems to work and feel different...its reversed cars i used 100 MZ Now use use 50 or the steering feels too sharp and cars that i used to Run with Lower MZ with Now the MZ must be set Higher or the steering feels lazy....stange:confused:

I figured it out... My Mistake i didn't restart PS4 after i had used the wheel already...i just updated wheel then plugged it back into the PS4 so things were a tad bit off.

vahagn_hayk
25-11-2015, 19:39
Fanatec CSW V2+ CSP V2 and V3 (v231 Beta) on PS4 Console
Tweaking of FFB with Patch/ Update V06.00.1125

CSW V2 Base Configuration:
SEn aut
FF 100
SHo 100
AbS off
Lin off
dEA off
drI off
For 100
SPr off
dPr off

Configuration:
Steering Deadzone - 0
Steering Sensitivity - 75
Throttle Deadzone - 0
Throttle Sensitivity - 50
Brake Deadzone - 0
Brake Sensitivity - 50
Clutch Deadzone - 0
Clutch Sensitivity - 50
Speed Sensitivity - 0
Controller Filter Sensitivity - 0
Damper Saturation - 0
Force Feedback - 100
RPM/ Gear Display - YES
Controller Input Mode - 3
Advanced (Off)

Calibrate Force Feedback in Main Menu:
Tire Force - 50
Per Wheel Movement - 0.00
Per Wheel Movement Squared - 0.00
Wheel Position Smoothing - 0.00
Deadzone Removal Range - 0.00
Deadzone Removal Falloff - 0.00
Linkage Scale - 0.00
Linkage Stiffness - 1.00
Linkage Dampening - 1.00
Relative Adjust Gain – 0.96
Relative Adjust Bleed - 0.20
Relative Adjust Clamp - 0.94
Scoop Knee - 0.00
Scoop Reduction - 0.00
Soft Clipping (Half Input) - 0.00
Soft Clipping (Full Output) - 0.00
Menu Spring Strength - 0.20
Low Speed Spring Coefficient - 0.75
Low Speed Spring Saturation - 1.00
Steering Gain - 1.00

Calibrate Force Feedback per vehicle, same and identical across all cars, tested on LMP1, LMP2, GT4 and GT3:
SPINDLE
Master Scale - 30
Fx Scale - 100.01
Fy Scale - 100.01
Fz Scale - 100.01
Mz Scale - 100.01
Fx Smoothing - 0.0
Fy Smoothing - 0.0
Fz Smoothing - 0.0
Mz Smoothing - 0.0
Arm Angle - standard/ default (1500) have not played around/ tweaked with this yet at all!

BODY & SOP
Body Scale - 0.01
Body Longitudinal Scale - 0.01
Body Stiffness - 100.01
Body Damping - 100.01
SoP Scale - 30.0
SoP Lateral Scale - 100.0
SoP Differential Scale - 100.0
SoP Damping - 0.0

Thanks goes out to all the guys who helped me greatly, without them wouldn't have understood it all.
Thank you@ poirqc, skoader, Jussi Karjalainen, GrimeyDog, Jack Spade and Tiago Fortuna for all the explanations and support!

Linx
25-11-2015, 19:54
Grimey what's your latest version of your set up? I think the one I've been using is v9. Can you link me to your latest one please. Sorry lately I haven't been keeping up with the forum and can't remember where I left off last.

GrimeyDog
26-11-2015, 02:07
Grimey what's your latest version of your set up? I think the one I've been using is v9. Can you link me to your latest one please. Sorry lately I haven't been keeping up with the forum and can't remember where I left off last.




(http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221287&d=1446466921)http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used




Tweek is posted in first post... I updated it for patch 5.0 ... With update 6.0 its even better Now and Needed No updating...Check the thread especially last 5 pages of the thread IMO there is some really good info there.

Moody plum
27-11-2015, 20:15
Hi new to the forum can anyone tell me if the fanatec gt2 now works as it should in project cars thanks on the ps4

gotdirt410sprintcar
27-11-2015, 20:24
Hi new to the forum can anyone tell me if the fanatec gt2 now works as it should in project cars thanks on the ps4
It should be fine i have a gt3rs it works fine

2stains
28-11-2015, 01:45
Hi new to the forum can anyone tell me if the fanatec gt2 now works as it should in project cars thanks on the ps4

It certainly works well , you just need some good ffb settings , go through my last few posts to find some of the best I've been able to find.
Sorry i dont know how to link things . NOOB.
Try Titzon Toast or Sik180sx settings all feel great on our type of wheel but it's up to you for peraonal favourite.

signed8bit
28-11-2015, 04:42
Has anyone noticed what I believe is the R4 button no longer being recognized? On the Formula Rim, this is the bottom left of the triangle button array at the bottom of the rim. I used to have wipers mapped there and now when I try and assign that button the game no longer recognizes it. I am unsure it is my wheel firmware or the latest update to the game that has changed things. I did a full control reset when 6.0 came out.

Ponponizza
28-11-2015, 07:11
Hi
Thinking about buying a csp v3 ,csw v2 and p1 wheel for my ps4 .....
Is everything functionnal?

Moody plum
28-11-2015, 12:50
Thanks for the reply I have the fan gt2 with the h shifter plastic one and the csp v1pedals does all the functions work manual with clutch. Will I have to download new firmware for the wheel. Also do u connect the wheel in pc mode . Ps4 is on its way with project cars.only raced on granturismo is project better. . Also can some one send me A link for some good wheel settings.thankyou feeling exited

2stains
28-11-2015, 13:26
Read above ,GT2 is same as GT3 settings .
gotdirt410sprintcar has good settings .
You need to look around.

Argo1
02-12-2015, 20:01
I cannot get my GT3rs to work at all. What am I missing? If I power it up prior to starting CARS it freezes on the load screens. If I power it up on the start screen it will not function. Any thoughts?

Islandlad77
02-12-2015, 22:07
I cannot get my GT3rs to work at all. What am I missing? If I power it up prior to starting CARS it freezes on the load screens. If I power it up on the start screen it will not function. Any thoughts?

My gt3rs has never worked properly from a force feedback point of view. I've tried several settings suggested by forum users and quite frankly it's all just taking the fun out of the game. People need to realise that the gt3 along with other wheels is old hardware which we are using with not only new software but also a fairly new console. Someone said ( I forget which thread), that a proper sim developed for high spec pc's won't work as well on a Consol's. Starting to thing maybe they have a point. It may sound like a rant but I'm just getting bored of playing around with sliders all the time instead of having fun !

pjrblue
02-12-2015, 23:30
Has anyone noticed what I believe is the R4 button no longer being recognized? On the Formula Rim, this is the bottom left of the triangle button array at the bottom of the rim. I used to have wipers mapped there and now when I try and assign that button the game no longer recognizes it. I am unsure it is my wheel firmware or the latest update to the game that has changed things. I did a full control reset when 6.0 came out.

I notice that also, I have the CSR.

2stains
02-12-2015, 23:59
I cannot get my GT3rs to work at all. What am I missing? If I power it up prior to starting CARS it freezes on the load screens. If I power it up on the start screen it will not function. Any thoughts?
My GT2 works perfectly . I actually love it AWSOME . Sure if i had more money i would have got the club sport v2 but this has made this game so good .
Maybe you need to update firmware .!!
756 is current i think . Use youtube for tutorials. GT2 GT3 And CSR all update the same i think.
Hope this helps you .

2stains
03-12-2015, 00:17
My gt3rs has never worked properly from a force feedback point of view. I've tried several settings suggested by forum users and quite frankly it's all just taking the fun out of the game. People need to realise that the gt3 along with other wheels is old hardware which we are using with not only new software but also a fairly new console. Someone said ( I forget which thread), that a proper sim developed for high spec pc's won't work as well on a Consol's. Starting to thing maybe they have a point. It may sound like a rant but I'm just getting bored of playing around with sliders all the time instead of having fun !
Maybe your wheel is old and tired as mine as a new (old) wheel works great . Heaps of power and feeling .
I'm not sure what more there is to feel , braking ,understeer ,oversteer, lock ups, bumps ,kerbs it's all there . Even gets light going over crests and heavy going into dips .
It has made this game come alive for me .

killer2293
07-12-2015, 21:07
Fanatec CSW V2+ CSP V2 and V3 (v231 Beta) on PS4 Console
Tweaking of FFB with Patch/ Update V06.00.1125

CSW V2 Base Configuration:
SEn aut
FF 100
SHo 100
AbS off
Lin off
dEA off
drI off
For 100
SPr off
dPr off

Configuration:
Steering Deadzone - 0
Steering Sensitivity - 75
Throttle Deadzone - 0
Throttle Sensitivity - 50
Brake Deadzone - 0
Brake Sensitivity - 50
Clutch Deadzone - 0
Clutch Sensitivity - 50
Speed Sensitivity - 0
Controller Filter Sensitivity - 0
Damper Saturation - 0
Force Feedback - 100
RPM/ Gear Display - YES
Controller Input Mode - 3
Advanced (Off)

Calibrate Force Feedback in Main Menu:
Tire Force - 50
Per Wheel Movement - 0.00
Per Wheel Movement Squared - 0.00
Wheel Position Smoothing - 0.00
Deadzone Removal Range - 0.00
Deadzone Removal Falloff - 0.00
Linkage Scale - 0.00
Linkage Stiffness - 1.00
Linkage Dampening - 1.00
Relative Adjust Gain 0.96
Relative Adjust Bleed - 0.20
Relative Adjust Clamp - 0.94
Scoop Knee - 0.00
Scoop Reduction - 0.00
Soft Clipping (Half Input) - 0.00
Soft Clipping (Full Output) - 0.00
Menu Spring Strength - 0.20
Low Speed Spring Coefficient - 0.75
Low Speed Spring Saturation - 1.00
Steering Gain - 1.00

Calibrate Force Feedback per vehicle, same and identical across all cars, tested on LMP1, LMP2, GT4 and GT3:
SPINDLE
Master Scale - 30
Fx Scale - 100.01
Fy Scale - 100.01
Fz Scale - 100.01
Mz Scale - 100.01
Fx Smoothing - 0.0
Fy Smoothing - 0.0
Fz Smoothing - 0.0
Mz Smoothing - 0.0
Arm Angle - standard/ default (1500) have not played around/ tweaked with this yet at all!

BODY & SOP
Body Scale - 0.01
Body Longitudinal Scale - 0.01
Body Stiffness - 100.01
Body Damping - 100.01
SoP Scale - 30.0
SoP Lateral Scale - 100.0
SoP Differential Scale - 100.0
SoP Damping - 0.0

Thanks goes out to all the guys who helped me greatly, without them wouldn't have understood it all.
Thank you@ poirqc, skoader, Jussi Karjalainen, GrimeyDog, Jack Spade and Tiago Fortuna for all the explanations and support!
These settings are excellent. Thank you very much

vahagn_hayk
08-12-2015, 21:56
These settings are excellent. Thank you very much

glad I could be of help and you enjoy driving with these settings! and appreciate the feedback! will see what happens with next patch, but will surely post changes or no changes,either way.

GrimeyDog
08-12-2015, 23:12
glad I could be of help and you enjoy driving with these settings! and appreciate the feedback! will see what happens with next patch, but will surely post changes or no changes,either way.


That's what its all about... Working together for the betterment of Pcars as a Community!!! We can Shape the Future of Sim Racing by what we do here Not as individuals but as a community of Sim Racers...We can ensure that we will get quality Sim Racing Games if we stay united... You know other game developers are watching what we do here also.

Hope to see you All on the track 1 day:cool: Vrooom Vrooom

Moody plum
13-12-2015, 02:36
hi just put project cars on downloaded update6.0 tryed to use my gt2 game just freezes unplayable any thoughts or suggestions thanks

2stains
13-12-2015, 05:28
It sounds like the wheel firmware needs to be updated to 756 .
Check youtube for tutorials. All Fanatec CSR , GT2 , GT3 wheels update the same .
Good luck but it is pretty easy . Sort of.

Moody plum
19-12-2015, 09:35
Hi tried to flash the wheel failed miserably is there any tutorials on how to load it to the computer.do I need to buy winra problem is I'm pc I iliterate so finding this really tough.cheers

Cabriojoschy
19-12-2015, 10:29
Can someone tell me, when the handbrake will be supported an PS4 for the CSW? I hope for every patch but nothing shows up.

Sankyo
19-12-2015, 13:45
Hi tried to flash the wheel failed miserably is there any tutorials on how to load it to the computer.do I need to buy winra problem is I'm pc I iliterate so finding this really tough.cheers

Please explain what you did/tried and how it failed?

Moody plum
19-12-2015, 16:32
hi i dowbloaded from the fanatec website the 756 firmware and the 144 driver 64 bit and tryed to apply it to the wheel.but i dont really no how to do it

Sankyo
19-12-2015, 21:46
hi i dowbloaded from the fanatec website the 756 firmware and the 144 driver 64 bit and tryed to apply it to the wheel.but i dont really no how to do it

The firmware download came with a document showing you how to do it, did you see/read that?

Mascot
20-12-2015, 11:16
Mmm. Can't drive more than a minute without my CSR-E wheel disconnecting now. Tried it in Forza 4 with the same problem, so it's not pCARS fault. This could explain the high number of random crashes I've been having in pCARS over the last couple of days. Something ain't right. Quick web research suggests static electricity or interference could be the culprit. It seemed to get a LOT worse since using the companion app yesterday, but still happens with the tablet turned completely off. Any ideas?

Sankyo
20-12-2015, 17:13
Mmm. Can't drive more than a minute without my CSR-E wheel disconnecting now. Tried it in Forza 4 with the same problem, so it's not pCARS fault. This could explain the high number of random crashes I've been having in pCARS over the last couple of days. Something ain't right. Quick web research suggests static electricity or interference could be the culprit. It seemed to get a LOT worse since using the companion app yesterday, but still happens with the tablet turned completely off. Any ideas?

First thing would be to rule out static electricity. Pleaseat users seemed to be affected quite a bit some time ago, especially those using Porsche wheels. You could try grounding your seat, which worked well for those whom I helped in the past.

Are wheel, PS4 etc. all plugged into grounded wall sockets?

Mascot
21-12-2015, 07:58
First thing would be to rule out static electricity. Pleaseat users seemed to be affected quite a bit some time ago, especially those using Porsche wheels. You could try grounding your seat, which worked well for those whom I helped in the past.

Are wheel, PS4 etc. all plugged into grounded wall sockets?

They are, but I'm going to try connecting an earth cable to one of the bolts that hold the wheel to the playseat and wire it into the earth pin on a spare electrical plug. I'll be happily amazed if static electricity is the source of the problem though. I've got a nasty feeling it's something far more serious.

Thanks Remco.

Sankyo
21-12-2015, 09:06
They are, but I'm going to try connecting an earth cable to one of the bolts that hold the wheel to the playseat and wire it into the earth pin on a spare electrical plug. I'll be happily amazed if static electricity is the source of the problem though. I've got a nasty feeling it's something far more serious.

Thanks Remco.
Since most static is created by moving in the seat, please also try and ground the seat. If the static is grounded via your hands through the wheel, it may still cause problems.

Mascot
21-12-2015, 09:53
Since most static is created by moving in the seat, please also try and ground the seat. If the static is grounded via your hands through the wheel, it may still cause problems.

I made up an earth cable and plug but haven't connected it yet as I've just been running some more tests and I don't think my problem is related to static. My disconnections seemed to happen very soon after starting driving, so I started a quick race at Dubai and sat on the grid for a few laps to see if it was time related. There was no disconnection even after about six minutes. I then started driving down the start/finish straight and sure enough the wheel disconnected after a few seconds. I happened to notice that the disconnection happened halfway through turn one so started another race, sat on the grid for a few laps, then turned my wheel while still stationary on the grid. Sure enough, the wheel disconnected when the wheel got to around 90 degrees. I repeated this several times with the same result. I then turned FF (force feedback) down to zero in the on-wheel Fanatec digital display and repeated the test, but the wheel stayed connected. With FF at zero on the wheel I was able to drive around the circuit with no disconnections. I then started increasing the FF on the wheel and could drive fine up to 40% FF, but anything above that and the wheel would disconnect when it was turned. So for some reason the steering FFB forces disconnect the wheel even if set relatively weak. I tried recalibrating the wheel but it made no difference (it even disconnected the first time during the recalibration).

Any thoughts? I guess the next step is to reflash the firmware (I have the most up to date installed anyway) but I always seem to have problems doing this (I've not had to do it on this wheel as it came with latest firmware installed).

I still can't work out why increasing FFB would disconnect the wheel, unless there's a dry solder joint somewhere and the vibrations open it up, although there's very little vibration when just turning the wheel while sat stationary on the grid, and the wheel still disconnects.

Very puzzling.

Sankyo
21-12-2015, 10:31
I made up an earth cable and plug but haven't connected it yet as I've just been running some more tests and I don't think my problem is related to static. My disconnections seemed to happen very soon after starting driving, so I started a quick race at Dubai and sat on the grid for a few laps to see if it was time related. There was no disconnection even after about six minutes. I then started driving down the start/finish straight and sure enough the wheel disconnected after a few seconds. I happened to notice that the disconnection happened halfway through turn one so started another race, sat on the grid for a few laps, then turned my wheel while still stationary on the grid. Sure enough, the wheel disconnected when the wheel got to around 90 degrees. I repeated this several times with the same result. I then turned FF (force feedback) down to zero in the on-wheel Fanatec digital display and repeated the test, but the wheel stayed connected. With FF at zero on the wheel I was able to drive around the circuit with no disconnections. I then started increasing the FF on the wheel and could drive fine up to 40% FF, but anything above that and the wheel would disconnect when it was turned. So for some reason the steering FFB forces disconnect the wheel even if set relatively weak. I tried recalibrating the wheel but it made no difference (it even disconnected the first time during the recalibration).

Any thoughts? I guess the next step is to reflash the firmware (I have the most up to date installed anyway) but I always seem to have problems doing this (I've not had to do it on this wheel as it came with latest firmware installed).

I still can't work out why increasing FFB would disconnect the wheel, unless there's a dry solder joint somewhere and the vibrations open it up, although there's very little vibration when just turning the wheel while sat stationary on the grid, and the wheel still disconnects.

Very puzzling.

You could try re-flashing the firmware, but it very much sounds like a bad motor :(

Mascot
21-12-2015, 13:03
You could try re-flashing the firmware, but it very much sounds like a bad motor :(

Would a bad motor cause disconnections?

Sum Dixon-Ear
21-12-2015, 13:07
Mascot, one thing I forgot to mention to try yesterday;

Considering that you have recently swapped over from the standard to Formula Rim, it might be worth checking that the wiring connections are between the rim and wheel are perfectly snug and there are no loose terminals at the connector blocks as it's very easy to over stretch the connections while swapping CSREW rims.

I would consider giving the internal connections on the mainboard a once-over as well. If you need the instructions for getting into the guts of the wheel, I can forward them to you ASAP.

Mascot
21-12-2015, 13:22
Mascot, one thing I forgot to mention to try yesterday;

Considering that you have recently swapped over from the standard to Formula Rim, it might be worth checking that the wiring connections are between the rim and wheel are perfectly snug and there are no loose terminals at the connector blocks as it's very easy to over stretch the connections while swapping CSREW rims.

I would consider giving the internal connections on the mainboard a once-over as well. If you need the instructions for getting into the guts of the wheel, I can forward them to you ASAP.

Cheers pal - I'd appreciate those instructions and the benefit of your vast experience. I took the F rim off yesterday and checked the connections. All were solid. Good idea to check any within the main guts of the unit too as any significant FFB seems to trigger the disconnection.

Sum Dixon-Ear
21-12-2015, 13:34
Cheers pal - I'd appreciate those instructions and the benefit of your vast experience. I took the F rim off yesterday and checked the connections. All were solid. Good idea to check any within the main guts of the unit too as any significant FFB seems to trigger the disconnection.

Here you go mate... don't be frightened of all the technology now... :glee:

224265
224266
224267
224268

Sankyo
21-12-2015, 14:17
Would a bad motor cause disconnections?
Yes it can. Don't ask me how it works exactly, but I've had several repairs of wheels turning off when turning the wheel beyond a certain angle, and replacing the motor solved it.

Mascot
21-12-2015, 14:18
Thanks again pal - any particular spots I should be looking at for bad connections?

Mascot
21-12-2015, 14:19
Yes it can. Don't ask me how it works exactly, but I've had several repairs of wheels turning off when turning the wheel beyond a certain angle, and replacing the motor solved it.

Ah, thanks. Good to know! :)

Sum Dixon-Ear
21-12-2015, 14:58
Thanks again pal - any particular spots I should be looking at for bad connections?

I would just check everything chum, it smacks of a hardware fault though tbh.

If you need to replace the motors, I got a back-up set at the end of October which cost 46 Euros (around 35) delivered, they were sent from within the UK so shipping costs are minimal now. I would consider enquiring about sourcing a replacement mainboard as well, when I've suffered motor problems (granted, they were early motor block burn outs, slightly different to your issue) the main PCB suffered as a consequence. If you do find out about availability/pricing on a new PCB, could you let me know what Fanatec say please as I quite fancy a spare myself.

Good luck bud.

GrimeyDog
21-12-2015, 15:43
Cheers!!! Thats some Great info in the Pics.

Mascot
21-12-2015, 22:50
I would just check everything chum, it smacks of a hardware fault though tbh.

If you need to replace the motors, I got a back-up set at the end of October which cost 46 Euros (around 35) delivered, they were sent from within the UK so shipping costs are minimal now. I would consider enquiring about sourcing a replacement mainboard as well, when I've suffered motor problems (granted, they were early motor block burn outs, slightly different to your issue) the main PCB suffered as a consequence. If you do find out about availability/pricing on a new PCB, could you let me know what Fanatec say please as I quite fancy a spare myself.

Good luck bud.

Will do -might not get a chance to investigate this properly before Xmas though. Thanks for all the help so far folks.

Boz
26-12-2015, 13:15
Hi everyone!

Santa just dropped by, and now I got a CSW V2 + P1 Wheel + V3 pedals to go with my PS4/PCars.
BUT...
I did everything by the book, updating my CSW AND my CSP V3 pedals

And of course, my bundle isn't detected by the PS4 when I launch the game.

When connected to the PS4, the "Start button" LEDs are green and I'm able to rotate the wheel. If I set it up to PC/PS4 mode at this point, the LEDs become red and the wheel is locked.

I'm lost, plz can someone help?

MrBeasa
01-01-2016, 23:47
Hi guys, I recently bought the club sport v2 + v3 pedals and tried setting it up earlier today but when I tried to calibrate the pedals in game the brake pedal doesn't seem to be recognised ? Also my ds4 L2 button doesn't work as a result. Any help would be muchly appreciated !

Forgot to mention I have updated both the base and pedals to latest firmware.

Linx
02-01-2016, 02:20
Did you make sure the peddle is assigned to brakes on the button mapping screen?

MrBeasa
02-01-2016, 12:33
Yea I've just checked it and it's as it should be Throttle - throttle , brake - brake etc. I remapped it to a steering wheel button then changed it back to brake again and that worked fine, but when I go back to pedal calibration in game it doesn't recognise me pushing the brake at all ? Clutch and throttle are fine tho ? I'm so baffled lol.
One more thing I don't know if this is linked to it but once the game is loaded up I get a n symbol stay on my LED screen on the wheel, never seen this before and just wondered if it was meant to be there.

Fanapryde
02-01-2016, 13:09
One more thing I don't know if this is linked to it but once the game is loaded up I get a n symbol stay on my LED screen on the wheel, never seen this before and just wondered if it was meant to be there.
Yes, that n means neutral.
That will change in 1-2-3-4- ... Showing the gear you are in.

MrBeasa
02-01-2016, 13:40
Ha that would make sense ! anyway ive tried manually calibrating the pedals on pc so that I can attempt a lap on ps4 and still no luck, im either getting the brake stuck on with no input from myself or no brake at all with max input.. starting to think ive got a duff set of pedals..

MrBeasa
02-01-2016, 14:24
Sorry to be a pain people but ive noticed im not getting the BrF setting come up on the tuning menu of the wheel, ive checked all connections and tried reinstalling firmware etc and nothing seems to work. Any1 that can help me out and I will love you forever ! Cheers in advance.

Edit : Got there in the end ! only plugged the wheel usb in instead of both wheel and pedals and seemed to do the trick, not sure how or why this worked but hey ho problem solved.

Linx
02-01-2016, 16:16
Not sure about the BrF but I'm wondering if you might have a bad load cell on your brake pedal. Do you have a different game you can try it with to see if you get different results?

Mascot
05-01-2016, 10:55
I would just check everything chum, it smacks of a hardware fault though tbh.

If you need to replace the motors, I got a back-up set at the end of October which cost 46 Euros (around 35) delivered, they were sent from within the UK so shipping costs are minimal now. I would consider enquiring about sourcing a replacement mainboard as well, when I've suffered motor problems (granted, they were early motor block burn outs, slightly different to your issue) the main PCB suffered as a consequence. If you do find out about availability/pricing on a new PCB, could you let me know what Fanatec say please as I quite fancy a spare myself.

Good luck bud.

After further testing and exhausting all known possibilities I finally gave up and ordered a new motor block today (39 delivered, I think from Germany). Totally forgot to enquire about the replacement PCB though - sorry mate..! I'll ask in a follow-up email.

Sum Dixon-Ear
05-01-2016, 12:25
After further testing and exhausting all known possibilities I finally gave up and ordered a new motor block today (39 delivered, I think from Germany). Totally forgot to enquire about the replacement PCB though - sorry mate..! I'll ask in a follow-up email.

Before you start the replacement procedure, make sure that you record the positions of the four belt tensioning bolts on the chassis' fascia (see pic below). Perhaps stick some masking tape to the wheel and mark the exact centre points of the bolts as a reference for the rebuild. Over-tensioning causes unwanted resistance/drag and overly stresses the motor shafts, under-tensioning causes belt slip and the wheel will sound like a flatulent whale while cornering! The existing bolt positions should be just about perfect, but if you find that some fettling is needed with the new block fitted then only adjust the tensioning by very small amounts until the wheel feels and sounds right.

Good luck bud!

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Mascot
05-01-2016, 12:28
Before you start the replacement procedure, make sure that you record the positions of the four belt tensioning bolts on the chassis' fascia (see pic below). Perhaps stick some masking tape to the wheel and mark the exact centre points of the bolts as a reference for the rebuild. Over-tensioning causes unwanted resistance/drag and overly stresses the motor shafts, under-tensioning causes belt slip and the wheel will sound like a flatulent whale while cornering! The existing bolt positions should be just about perfect, but if you find that some fettling is needed with the new block fitted then only adjust the tensioning by very small amounts until the wheel feels and sounds right.

Good luck bud!

224970

Thanks for the tip - very good advice..!

Sankyo
05-01-2016, 12:57
Before you start the replacement procedure, make sure that you record the positions of the four belt tensioning bolts on the chassis' fascia (see pic below). Perhaps stick some masking tape to the wheel and mark the exact centre points of the bolts as a reference for the rebuild. Over-tensioning causes unwanted resistance/drag and overly stresses the motor shafts, under-tensioning causes belt slip and the wheel will sound like a flatulent whale while cornering! The existing bolt positions should be just about perfect, but if you find that some fettling is needed with the new block fitted then only adjust the tensioning by very small amounts until the wheel feels and sounds right.

Good luck bud!

224970


Thanks for the tip - very good advice..!

In case marking the positions doesn't work as expected (e.g. you rub off the sticker accidentally ;)), the main/long belt tension needs to be such that you can press it down in the middle about 1 cm without having to push too hard. This assures it's not too tight (which you will notice by the wheel turning very slowly during auto-calibration) and not too loose (the abovementioned flatulent whale).

doggiehowser
11-01-2016, 05:48
Thanks for the reply I have the fan gt2 with the h shifter plastic one and the csp v1pedals does all the functions work manual with clutch. Will I have to download new firmware for the wheel. Also do u connect the wheel in pc mode . Ps4 is on its way with project cars.only raced on granturismo is project better. . Also can some one send me A link for some good wheel settings.thankyou feeling exited

It took me a while to get my 911 Turbo S wheel (similar in design to the GT2 but had a wireless option) but it works now.

I needed to find a Windows 7 PC to update the firmware (Virtual Machine didn't see the USB) to the newest 756 version. After the firmware update, you also need to calibrate the H Shifter - connect USB to PC, and then hold down the "Setup" and "Start" button. Then you have g_n for gear neutral

Here's a video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=va5eNbs0ViY

And then I needed to update Project Cars on the PS4 to the latest patch (v7.00)

Once that was done, I think I had to set the Porsche wheel to PC mode - hold the Back button for a few seconds and then the --- on the LED display turns off.

When Project Cars boots up, it automatically detects the wheel and the PS3 LED lights for the buttons light up X triangle square circle etc

Once that's done, I can use the wheels D pad and buttons to navigate the menus and play.

Mascot
15-01-2016, 18:33
Cross-posting from another thread:

OK. Motor block changed, tested, success! No disconnections, no crashes. The process was a piece of piss, except for an INCREDIBLY shoddy and stupid design flaw that bit me on the ass, big time. The pulley belt has to be removed from the motor block through a gap that is formed by sharp metal on both sides and a gap that is unbelievably smaller than the belt itself. It's f*cking idiotic, and there's absolutely NO reason for the gap to be this small apart from terrible design.

225338

To make removing the belt even more precarious is the close proximity of the motor/pulley assembly to the flimsy plastic optical wheel, which legend tells is very easily damaged and expensive to replace. Anyway, long story short, no matter how careful I was the frikkin' pulley belt got cut while trying to gently persuade it through the sharp-edged gap.

225337

I superglued it as best I could under the fiddly circumstances but I've basically got a ticking time bomb inside my wheel now, and need to source another belt and go through this whole process again.

Utterly pissed off right now, and even placing a gypsy curse on the idiot that designed that particular component hasn't lightened my mood.

Sum Dixon-Ear
15-01-2016, 19:42
Sorry to hear that Mascot, 'tis a bugger so it is.

Just checked my new (unfitted as yet) motor block and it also has a gap too small for the belt to fit through unimpeded, the last one was fine. It seems that the gap is dependant on the placing of the belt spindle on the shaft.

One possible solution is to remove/loosen the four bolts that mount the bracket to the motors then loosen the long central bolt enough to enlarge the gap betwixt motor and bracket edge to allow easier fitting of the belt.
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Sankyo
15-01-2016, 20:16
Yes, replacing the motor in a CSRE or CSW v1 is a bitch. To me it seems that it wasn't designed with the idea that motor swaps might have to happen.

After a few swaps you get a feel for it so you can do it without damaging belt nor codewheel, but even then it's not a fun thing to do.

Sum Dixon-Ear
15-01-2016, 21:29
Mascot, you will probably be able to source any replacement belts from here - http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Belts-Multi-Ribbed-Poly-V-Belts-J-Section-Poly-V-Belts/c4601_4791_4793/index.html?page=1

The company will also supply any belt with a different rib count to their standard stock. The damaged belt you have is a 'Gates 2EP J584' (2 rib, I think), there is a '584J' belt on that page.. however it's a 3 rib, so if it's the correct length ask for a 2 rib version and you should be good to go. As long as you order a belt with a very similar length and identical rib count it should be just fine.

Good luck bud, you deserve it after that palaver.

EDIT : Unless, that is, Remco (outstanding chap that he is) has a spare belt lying around anywhere... nudge nudge, wink wink, say no more...

225353

Mascot
16-01-2016, 07:13
Sorry to hear that Mascot, 'tis a bugger so it is.

Just checked my new (unfitted as yet) motor block and it also has a gap too small for the belt to fit through unimpeded, the last one was fine. It seems that the gap is dependant on the placing of the belt spindle on the shaft.

One possible solution is to remove/loosen the four bolts that mount the bracket to the motors then loosen the long central bolt enough to enlarge the gap betwixt motor and bracket edge to allow easier fitting of the belt.


Yeah, I had a closer look at that after splitting the belt and it should work. I just followed the instructions and didn't think to check the gap - after all, why would it change? The old belt came off easily enough (a little tight in the gap, but nowhere near as bad as the new block). What annoyed me was that there is no reason whatsoever for the gap to be smaller than the belt - it could be three times wider. It's just incredibly shoddy design, along with the cheap stamped bracket with sharp edges. Saving pennies and creating chaos. I'm a qualified industrial designer and if I'd have come up with a component relationship like that even as a student I'd have been laughed off my degree course. One of the first things you are taught is to consider assembly, disassembly and replacement of components. Even the proximity of the assembly to the unprotected code wheel is idiotic.

Anyone know the exact spec of the belt and where to source them? The split one lasted for a three-hour session last night but if it does fail it'll probably take my code wheel with it and i hear those are expensive and a right bastard to replace.

Edit: how did I miss your post Sum? Cheers bud!

Edit 2: just copying this link for future reference as it contains good info about he belt specs: http://f-wheel.com/forums/index.php?topic=2342.60

Mascot
16-01-2016, 07:16
Yes, replacing the motor in a CSRE or CSW v1 is a bitch. To me it seems that it wasn't designed with the idea that motor swaps might have to happen.

After a few swaps you get a feel for it so you can do it without damaging belt nor codewheel, but even then it's not a fun thing to do.

It was fiddly but pretty easy, apart from the belt flustercluck, of course. The closeness of the code wheel was always a worry.

I was pretty pissed off that Fanatec just send the motor out with no fitting instructions whatsoever, especially as these motors fail with metronomic regularity. There was not even a 'beware of the code wheel' warning, or advice about resetting belt tension etc.
Sadly typical of Fanatec this, who seem extremely anal about other things. It seems you can't even phone their customer services without sending them a video of you wanting to phone their customer services. "Send us a video of the problem" seems to be their stock answer even for the simplest of queries, and I can't help feeling it's a tactic to reduce enquiries. Not everyone has the time, inclination or means to produce films of every failure. A few years ago they forced me to make a video of me going through the gears with the TV screen and shifter both in shot to 'prove' to them that a shifter had failed. It was massively inconvenient, then after jumping through all their hoops they finally offered me a tiny discount on a new shifter. I dread having to contact them.

Mascot
17-01-2016, 08:06
Not having a lot of luck lately. I finally get my wheel working again then the load cell in my brake pedal goes pop.

D'oh!

MVG Saint
17-01-2016, 18:10
Hello everyone. I was wondering if you lovely people could help me? My friend has bought my old PWTS off of me and would like to use it on the PS4 version of Project Cars. However, the wheel just isn't registering at all when he's in-game. Will the wheel need a firmware upgrade? (Unsure of which version he's using at the moment - sorry)

Or, is there a special way of 'marrying' the wheel to the console?

Many thanks in advance ;)

Sum Dixon-Ear
17-01-2016, 18:47
Hello everyone. I was wondering if you lovely people could help me? My friend has bought my old PWTS off of me and would like to use it on the PS4 version of Project Cars. However, the wheel just isn't registering at all when he's in-game. Will the wheel need a firmware upgrade? (Unsure of which version he's using at the moment - sorry)

Or, is there a special way of 'marrying' the wheel to the console?

Many thanks in advance ;)

The wheel should be running the latest firmware version (rev.756) which can be found here - http://www.fanatec.com/download/PWTS%20756.zip . To check his current fw version, he needs to turn on the wheel into stand-by mode (--- on the display) and press the four lower main buttons all together on the rim (see pic below). This will display the firmware version and also toggle between fan operation modes (always on - temperature controlled - always on), so to keep the current fan mode repeat the button sequence.

To connect the wheel and game; launch the game with the controller and when you see 'Press X' (to start the game), power on the wheel, switch it to PC mode (press and hold the 'Back' button on wheel) then use the wheel's X button to start the game.

(EDIT: You're not ValiantSaint from Forza by any chance are you?)

225476

Mascot
18-01-2016, 11:36
One possible solution is to remove/loosen the four bolts that mount the bracket to the motors then loosen the long central bolt enough to enlarge the gap betwixt motor and bracket edge to allow easier fitting of the belt.
225346
225347

I tried this on the old dead motor block after the fact and it works a treat. Definitely do this if (when?) you go to fit your new block. I wish I'd done it but I just blindly followed the instructions..!

Another option might be to loosen the belt spindle (very small allen grub screw) and move those down a bit, if they will move.

For the record my old motor block had the same tiny gap as the new one but the belt was easier to get off than it was to get on.

It's a bloody terrible design, it really is.