PDA

View Full Version : G27 Wheel Calibration issue



TheDarkness
08-05-2015, 03:57
I have the Logitech profiler (5.10) setup globally for 900 and I am able to get past the initial calibration setting at full clockwise. When the second part starts with the wheel fully clockwise it registers as 180 instead of the actual 450 that it is. When I center the wheel it goes back to 0 but when I start moving it clockwise or counterclockwise it starts counting down from 17142 and is at about 830 at the actual physical 90 position.

I have completely uninstalled all drivers and Logitech software and reinstalled with the same problem persisting. I have also played with the windows calibration software and the wheel seems to track properly in that no matter what the degrees of rotation is set to.

Is there any solution for this?

Mahjik
08-05-2015, 04:10
When calibrating, go full lock left then full lock right before returning to center and moving to the next step.

TheDarkness
08-05-2015, 04:35
I tried that, no luck. Nothing seems to change the jump from 0 to 17142 on the second step.

DUST2DEATH
08-05-2015, 04:52
I do it differently to Mahjik, and have been recommending it the following way.

Have your wheel centered.
begin calibration wizard.
Turn wheel all the way anti clockwise
Click next
Turn the wheel all the way back so you end up 90 degrees from center. (A G27 will read 899 or 901 depending which you choose)
Click save.

TheDarkness
08-05-2015, 05:38
No go, same problem persists. I'm gonna wipe and reinstall the game to see if that fixes it.

dominiczeth
08-05-2015, 05:46
Can you make a video when calibrating? I don't understand your problem fully.
When you turn the wheel 90 it has to show something around 900 ingame.

Jan Studenski
08-05-2015, 06:03
Why are you calibrating anyway?

You dont need to calibrate if you use default steering range in Logitech Profiler and the Wheel Preset (which you still can postedit)

Its perfect like it is (at least for me) - i just increase ingame the FFB to 100% to get the full range of effect. Imo more strength is unrealistic

TheDarkness
08-05-2015, 06:56
No video, but here are some pics:

At Zero:
200386

Slightly Clockwise from Zero reading:
200391

Slightly Counter-Clockwise from Zero reading:
200392

90 Degrees Clockwise:
200387

90 Degrees Counter-Clockwise:
200388

Full rotation Counter-Clockwise:
200389

Full rotation Clockwise:
200390

Martin G Webb
08-05-2015, 07:05
I have a G27, I haven't come across this particular issue however in the profiler options there is a check box marked 'Allow Game to change Settings'.

Uncheck that box otherwise the profiler will set the range and during game calibration the game will try to re-write that setting. Oh and always, always run through a full left to right lock and up and down on each pedal BEFORE launching pCARS but with the profiler running.

Aldo Zampatti
08-05-2015, 07:07
Do as Marting suggest and also try to shut down profiler before running pCARS. Logitech software caused me more issues than solutions

yusupov
08-05-2015, 07:22
maybe i dont fully understand (since i see clockwise & counterclockwise you get 2 values) but if the game detects less than 900 deg it is best to leave it. i didnt realize this for some time until the main FFB guy at iracing said a lot of 900deg wheels cheat a bit, i think logitech esp does this. thats why they bother to have the calibration feature. before i just figured my angle must be a bit off & would move it to get a 900 value, but since then ive noticed when i calibrate the wheel in games ill usually get something in the 860s. but logitech wheel or not, he said dont worry about it, w/e the value is go with that, you will end up w/ more precision ultimately.

Obermokel
08-05-2015, 07:34
Personally, I didn't ever need to calibrate the G27 wheel within the game. I am using Windows 7, Logitech Profiler 5.10, everything at default. That is, nothing changed in the Profiler software as well as nothing changed in the Windows game controller settings.

200401

My fanatec wheel needs a calibration ingame, but again, the G27 does not need it at all.

Jan Studenski
08-05-2015, 07:48
...Uncheck that box otherwise the profiler will set the range and during game calibration the game will try to re-write that setting. Oh and always, always run through a full left to right lock and up and down on each pedal BEFORE launching pCARS but with the profiler running.

Thats interesting ... i have (and had) it always turned on - never had a problem besides:

In the middle of the race the steering wheel range got totally messed up (happend twice pre 987 Build), couldnt fix it (3h of Spa i did (see nonpublic Forum for more infos))

Further: Wheels is not detected until restart of PCARS when reconnecting the USB Connection, what imo shouldnt be - especially if you try fixing this ^^^^ bug during the session

Martin G Webb
08-05-2015, 07:52
Do as Marting suggest and also try to shut down profiler before running pCARS. Logitech software caused me more issues than solutions

Thanks for that Aldo ;)

There are two options open to you with the G27 -

1/ Use the profiler and ignore the calibration in game, (still use the game to set FFB limits but don't use the ingame calibration).

The up side to this option is that your profile will remain constant through the game and into multiplayer, the downside is that it can cause issues with dedicated server sessions and re-write problems if you happen to stray towards the calibration screen. Oh and go through the options to un check the nightmare 'Allow Setting Change' box.

2/ Switch the profiler off and only use the in game calibration, (make sure you exit the profiler fully so it isn't running in the background, at all).

This means every time to load up the game you will need to go through the calibration screen, you will also have to re-calibrate for 'Some' multiplayer sessions as using the in game calibration can be over written by the host/server settings.

From personal choice I use the profiler and avoid the calibration screen totally, it's worked for me but as I say it's a matter of personal choice.

Photonenbert
08-05-2015, 08:42
I invite you to my setup guide to avoid problems with your Logitech G25/G27
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22122-G25-G27-SETUP-GUIDE

cooly08
08-05-2015, 12:06
I have a different value when i turn my wheel at 90. I get around 500.
But when I'm playing, it seems ok, hands ingame are synced with my wheel.

Martin G Webb
08-05-2015, 12:17
I invite you to my setup guide to avoid problems with your Logitech G25/G27
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22122-G25-G27-SETUP-GUIDE

If you're having issues please take a look at this very helpful guide, nice one Photonenbert.

TheDarkness
08-05-2015, 17:35
I'm gonna give some of the suggestions a try now. Maybe I'm confused about what numbers should be reported back in the second step of the calibration. I assumed it should count up from zero to 450 at full lock in either direction. Mine counts down from 17000. Some people are saying it should read 900 at 90 degrees. What should it look like at 90 degrees, should it count down or up from zero?

Also my main reason for wanting to calibrate it is so that the game adjusts it for different vehicles, like the karts vs road cars. Right now without calibration it works but it is not 1:1 for most cars. I may be confused by how to make the steering rotation match the in game rotation.

could_do_better
08-05-2015, 17:40
Zero in the centre. 900 @ 90 degrees, 9000 @ full lock.

Your numbers are very odd. Have you tried a different usb port? Ideally usb 2.

Do you have other controllers plugged in? There were problems with this in the past for sure.

TheDarkness
08-05-2015, 20:08
So to report back on my findings.

1)The second part of the calibration always counts down showing the numbers previously posted, no matter the usb port, Logitech profiler being on or off, the profiler allowing the game to adjust settings or not. No combination of anything suggested changes the second part of the calibration.

2) Playing with Logitech Profiler on with default setting except 900 degrees rotation and no calibration.
-The wheel tracks 1:1 with the game, force feedback is minimal and needs to be adjusted.
-The soft lock for different vehicles is there but can be not very noticeable sometimes, is there a way to make it more noticeable? I should also note that when I switched from driving a 125cc kart to the BMW 1 series it initially kept the kart's 200 degrees of rotation but when I restarted the race it went to the proper 900 degrees.

3) Playing with Logitech Profiler on with default setting except 900 degrees rotation and I unchecked the allow game to adjust settings box, also no in game calibration.
-Same as above, no noticeable difference.

4) Playing without Logitech Profiler or in game calibration.
-Same as above, no noticeable difference.

So something that was suggested must have helped fix the tracking in game, so I don't really need to calibrate it, although I would still like to know if there is a solution for that.

SimmingAficionado
11-05-2015, 17:41
For me the 1-Series tends to keep whatever lock settings the previous car had (a G27 here too). Could anybody else try doing free practice in something like Formula A, check their G27's maximum lock, then go with the 1-Series and check it again... Then try the Mitsubishi Lancer followed by the BMW once again. You are most likely going to discover the bimmer retains the lock of the previous car.
It seems to be a bug.

Diehl710
25-05-2015, 22:38
Hi everybody! It's all sounding very familiar, after a weekend of troubleshooting steering wheels... After a day or two, I finally stumbled upon a solution that's completely solved the issue for me... Both my DFGT and G27 went more or less off center fairly quickly, playing a game or just sitting in the windows calibration software... It drove me nuts, it did! Read a post, can't remeber where, in my exitement, thank you, whoever you are. The optical decoder, checked it once, checked it twice. PCB wasn't loose, encoder wheel in good condition, and firmly secured to the shaft. Here it comes, and mind you, I'm a technical kinda' guy, tinkered my whole life... Push the IR transmitter closer toward the IR receiver, so that theres a minute gap between the IR units, and the encoder wheel. These PCB's are mass produced, and of course there's no one along the line to think and check the gap, and ensure that what's arguably the most important part of you wheel, actually works properly...
So in short, I used a flat screwdriver, not my greasy fingers, to push the IR transmitter on the little circuit board under the black cover of the DFGT, on the G27 it's behind one of the motors, and push it in, so that there's ever so little clearance between it, and the encoder wheel. Calibration issues solved, straight as an arrow, after hours of tweaking FFB settings and such, playing Euro Truck Sim 2 and Project Cars of course... Not even off by a hair.
Thought I'd share, and maybe save someone from ruining a perfectly good saturday browsing forums, erasing calibration settings and the like. Whilst in actuality al that was needed was a 2 minute fix, in the DFGT's case(8 bottom screws, and the black cover over the optical encoder to loosen...). A job that should have been done by the involved company's QC, to begin with. And to think I had my DFGT boxed and ready ro RMA, as it was still under warranty. Tinkering wins the day again!

Roger Prynne
25-05-2015, 23:07
Good find mate and thanks for letting us know.

Krobo
25-05-2015, 23:41
I have a G27 ,had no issues at all calibrating , I hit all the numbers on the dot in calibration it 900* is where its supposed to be ..

My issues is loosing peddles during MP game play ,, Ay first I thought I ran out of gas but it was dead peddles .. its happened about 4 times now .. If I go out and bring up Logitech profiler and chk they are still working there ..?? restart of the game usually fix's it but some times I need to reboot .. then it works fine for a few days ..lol

I also notice some issues with the paddle shifters in MP ..it's related to server settings with auto cluck /gears I believe but some times it wont change gears .. if I use the clutch after a few tries it will go into 1st then it starts working again .. with or without clutch .. anyone seen any of these issues ?

thanks ! ;-)