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Photonenbert
08-05-2015, 08:30
ATTENTION!

If you happen to experience problems with your logitech wheel since the past week, that might have to do with an Logitech driver update that has taken place on current WIN 10 systems (maybe others as well).

Your wheel might be reckognized as a different one (driving force for example) which can result in calibration issues, potentiometer issues, button mapping issues, gearing issues, steering lock issues (all of which I experienced. no clutch, 180 turning, no gears except 3rd, incorrect button mapping).

A simple fix it seems is to re-download and re-install the older driver that is mentioned below for your G25s/G27s. (fixed it for me)

Top Tip from Haldi (thx!) from the logitech forum. Havent tried it but seems legit ;) (includes a driver cleaner) https://community.logitech.com/s/question/0D531000050zypvCAA

Thanks to Dreamknight for the link: Here are more tips if a simple driver reinstall doesnt work for you --> http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?47384-RESOLVED-Never-touch-a-running-system-desperate-because-of-Problems-with-G27&p=1282236#post1282236 (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?47384-RESOLVED-Never-touch-a-running-system-desperate-because-of-Problems-with-G27&p=1282162&viewfull=1#post1282162)
I hope the issue will get resolved by Logitech.

G25: http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/g25-racing-wheel#download
G27: http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/g27-racing-wheel#download



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4 Step Program

- Logitech Profiler -
- In Game Settings -
- Linearity Settings -
- Tweaker Files -


People who helped with this guide or actually came up with the stuff in here:
t0daY, Lars Rosenquist, Drukhi, Mahjik, Jack Spade, poirqc, A.S
and a bunch of other guys I probably forgot.
Big Thank You guys! without your help my set up would just be as shitty as it could be

Welcome to this guide!

This should help uninformed new users to get the most out of their G25/G27 Logitech Wheel. (if any WMD members noticed that I missed something please tell me)

Having set up your wheel correctly (no matter what wheel) determines whether you are going to experience what you should or not. And what you should experience is the full potential of a simulation title.

Any wheel used in any game can give you a shi**y experience even though only one tiny slider is set at 0.15 instead of 0.25.

So dont give up if something doesnt feel as you expected it to on the first run. Inform yourself and ask us. We're here to help.


Rotation Limiter

The deflection limits can be adjusted via hardware inputs (hold 1+2 and press one of the buttons at the top):

[1+2] + O = ~670
[1+2] + S = ~450
[1+2] + X = 900
(Resets to default)
[1+2] + T = ~240

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First: Logitech Profiler

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Get the latest Drivers:

G25: http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/g25-racing-wheel#download
G27: http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/g27-racing-wheel#download

Not Using the Profiler:
You can also not be using the profiler as there is some minimal change I cant really put my finger on sadly (some people dont use it) but I now some people also then will get a wheel bug where the wheel will turn full lock to one side if your car is either in the pits or standing still which can be quite annoying.
Ive been told that is due to not using profiler, so its up to you to test.
Remember that you will have to uninstall the logitech profiler for it to work as it will always start when you plug in your wheel or start the computer if it is already plugged in or start the game. You will have to try what fits you best.


Open the Logitech Profiler Software and make a new profile for Project Cars.
Then go to Specific Game Settings.



Adjust like so:

- Use special FFB settings: enabled (of course)

- Overall effects strength: 100-107%

- Spring effect strength: 0%

- Damper effect strength: 0%

- Enable Centering Spring: disabled

- Centering spring strength: 0%

- use special steering wheel settings: enabled

- report combined pedals: disabled

- degrees of rotation: 900

- use special game settings: enabled

- allow game to adjust settings: enabled




Second: In Game Settings


Go to the controls menu and chose "Logitech G25 seperate pedals"
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Click "Calibrate Wheel"

1st: You have to turn the wheel until it stops and reaches its maximum lock.
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2nd:
turn the wheel 90 clock or anticlockwise and hold it when clicking finish.
"steering lock" should be at 900 (if its at 899 you will die. dont ask what will happen at 901)
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Click "Calibrate Pedals"

Game says it all: "Depress all pedals as far as possible" Do it now! The values should all be at 100 Click "finish".
If they are not at 100: normally when you first start your PC you should have pressed/depressed all pedals before you start the game. You might need a retry at this. If it still doesnt work restart the game and play a bit with the pedals, it will work. Don't play with them while in the settings menu, pedal input navigates through the settings and might do damage.
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Go to "Configuration"

Now, you can leave the pedal deadzones (throttle/brake/clutch) at 6 or put them to 0 if you like. That depends on wether your hardware works fine or not. I for instance need a bit of throttle deadzone as my throttle pedal is a bit jittery when I dont press it and it shows a bit of input.
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Set Force Feedback to 100. Go back. Don't touch anything else. good. thanks. your welcome.
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Click "Calibrate Force Feedback"

At first I recommend setting tire force to 100. You can adjust it to your liking or you adjust the per car FFB settings like master scale or Fx, Fz etc.) see below. Try heavy curbs/kerbs at Brands Hatch to test the wheel feel. Also set the HUD to telemtry mode so it shows you the FFB input in the top left corner
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Third: Linearity (poirqc) and DRR

You will need to adjust the Deadzone Removal Range to compensate for washed out effects in FFB.

"As soon as you use Deadzone Removal Range, you must use Deadzone Removal Falloff.
Those 2 settings are tied together. If you don't have enough DRF, you'll get a squared wave osciallation when going in a straight line. An easy way to tune DRR/DRF is to set DRR 1/10th of DRR." - poirqc


The G25 has a standard FFBbaseOffset-value of around 3.5% - 15%. This may vary a bit!

The G27 however has a FFBbaseOffset-value of whopping 18% or even more with the same settings applied.

The ideal value would be 0% for any wheel.

If you want to lower your FFB strength and set "Tire Force" (overall FFB should stay at 100!) to maybe 80 or 60 in the game, you will need to adjust a higher Deadzone Removal Range value !
Again, when lowering FFB strenght more and more effects will get lost if you didnt adjust Deadzone Removal Range as well and it just doesnt feel as good as it could be. You can try to lower FFB by using Tire Force instead of FFB Strength in game.

To get your very own FFBbaseOffset-value download "wheel checker 1.72."

https://mega.co.nz/#!wt4UzboQ!r70tMEAqOxY1UZxSviiukJs29OfSyIBBJYULPWWyNCg


Just open it, no need to install.

Click on "Spring Force" (at the top) and go to Step Log 2. Make sure you dont touch your wheel for the next few seconds. It will get inputs every 300ms and move more everytime it gets an input until it is finished and the program puts out an .csv log file.
you can find it here: C:\Users\you\Documents\log2 2015 file
To be able to actually do something with those log files I advise you to follow the instructions given in this google.documents sheet.
You will need to have a google account to open it I think.

click * FFB Calculator * click (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/12NlbeTytWJQYcXwLLV1g6wIXSUo02cB-y2Zf8Gy-SgM/edit#gid=1651868755)
Follow the instructions given in the top left corner Description.

poirqc's Linearity Guide - You may use it for any wheel
Baseline FFB values - Linear FFB Google sheet. Universal (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35147-Baseline-FFB-values-Linear-FFB-Google-sheet-Universal)


If you dont want to make a google account for this you can just simply open your .csv log files and put the first (force) and last column (deltaXdeg) of values in any tabulation program to actually get a graph you can work with.

(Would look like this. A/B/C just show the first inputs reckognized by the wheel checker. A (600) and B(1000) are very small inputs and can be ignored and as you can see it starts going up starting with C, so that is basically where your deadzone ends. Look at the graph. )
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I for example did it with Numbers (mac) and it looks like this:

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Since DeadzoneRemovalRange (DRR) helps to get your FFB more linear you can notice that from my graph I get the best linearity starting from ~1200. If you look at the diagonal input line you can see that the output is below that line from 0-2000. Every value at zero at the beginning of the graph means that you have FFB DeadZone. (roughly from 0-1000 where it starts to build up)
So its linear for me starting at 1200. Therefore my DRR value to put ingame is 0.12.
If it started at 800 DRR in game should be 0.08 for example.

Congratulations! You now have a very good starting point for adjusting those other 14 sliders!

You may contact me if you seem to have found the pinnacle of G25 performance. (maybe I already did)



Fourth: FFB Tweaker Files (Jack Spade's)

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files

These are the settings that change the FFB per car and they are good for any wheel you are using.
There are different Folders you can choose from, you will have to try what suits you best.
It is advisable to make a copy of the original Folder first.

The improvement with the tweaker files is huge so I recommend using it ! I would never drive without them ever again :)


Someone already explained them in here (as well FFB overall and Tire Force again):


General FFB strength
Output strength of the FFB to the wheel after it has been calculated by the FFB engine. This is basically the final 'volume' adjustment of the FFB. This means that if the FFB is clipping, turning the FFB strength down won't help anymore.

Tyre Force
This is the strength of the tyre contribution to the FFB, which is also the main contributor to the FFB. If the FFB is too high or too low for all cars, you can adjust this value to get it equally stronger/weaker for all cars.

The car-specific settings
These you want to adjust when the FFB of one car is good while for the next car it's too weak or strong (or has a wrong subjective balance of the individual force contributors).

Spindle Master Scale:
this scales the forces below it equally up and down, i.e. it's the FFB 'volume knob' specifically for that car. Turn it down if the FFB is clipping, and up if it's too weak.

Fx:
this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking, but I haven't really experimented with this one yet.

Fy:
this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering.

Fz:
this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road.

Mz:
this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip.

So when you want a particular force to stand out in the FFB, raise its relative contribution to the total FFB, and after that adjust the Spindle Master Scale value if necessary to get the FFB stay within the full range (i.e. not clipping or getting too weak).

RabNL
08-05-2015, 08:35
Tnx for the guide!
Will this also work for G27?

Photonenbert
08-05-2015, 08:37
Tnx for the guide!
Will this also work for G27?

for what I know, the only difference is with Deadzone Removal Range as shown at the bottom.

strength of forces may vary between these wheels!

RabNL
08-05-2015, 08:44
Ok. Tnx! I'll give it a try!

JamoZ
08-05-2015, 08:47
Wow, FFB @ 100 and 200 tire force? I`m surprised your wheel still works :P . I can`t imagine that kind of force being good for a g25...

Overall a good guide, good job Photonenbert :yes:

Photonenbert
08-05-2015, 08:56
Wow, FFB @ 100 and 200 tire force? I`m surprised your wheel still works :P . I can`t imagine that kind of force being good for a g25...

Overall a good guide, good job Photonenbert :yes:

yes, I need the full umpf.
thanks!

Noxxys
08-05-2015, 10:23
During "Calibrate Wheel", I can never get 900 degrees with my G27, more like 860. My wheel is set to 900 degrees in the logitech software.
Anything I should be worried about?

yusupov
08-05-2015, 10:28
nope, that actually means you are calibrating it correctly. i posted this elsewhere but the guy who does FFB for iracing says many 900 degree wheels are not actually 900. my g27 is around 860 when i do the calibration, this is actually normal for the wheel. he emphasised also its best to just go with this number (i used to cheat figuring i eyeballed it wrong & make it = 900)

piezor
08-05-2015, 10:28
You're doing gods work my friend. Good job.

Photonenbert
08-05-2015, 10:48
thanks for sticky.

JamoZ
08-05-2015, 10:56
For the people who want to try a little experiment in favor of a different kind of FFB and missed a previous post from me :


Make sure the profiler isn`t running, this made a world of difference for me. From hating the FFB for months, to actually starting to enjoy it the past hour or so. I like a slightly lighter FFB with more details coming trough instead of FFB that`s so heavy that i`m getting tired after 10 minutes. For me it now feels closer to Assetto Corsa and RF2.

I suggest anyone who`s experiencing a spring driven FFB on logitech wheels to disable the profiler completely, tune down the overall FFB a bit (85) and only tune the in car FFB scales (master scale between 50/70). It`s too early to speak of a massive breaktrough since not enough people have tried it yet, but i might be on to something for people who want a different FFB experience....

Please report back with some results so i can see if it`s only me or that we`re on to something for logitech wheels here :)

Rayc0
08-05-2015, 10:57
Thank you for share your settings dude :friendly_wink:

PD: check my post, there is another setting for G25 by Mahjik: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22005-G25-Settings-needed

yusupov
08-05-2015, 11:02
yep please try the above & give feedback -- i do not think it matters if profiler is open or not, except for the small amount of smoothing (if you turned off damping in the logitech profiler). but obviously 2x the FFB, while it seems crazy, unless im misreading the meter (possible) it doesnt clip, or not much anyway.

i quickly tried w/ caterham classic at donington which i drove just last night & i felt my driving was just as good & it felt pretty comfortable (at first it will feel way too heavy & springy, & this might just be the case, but i think its interesting). as far as surface feedback its pretty much perfect at this setting imo. maybe the x & y forces need to be turned down (maybe a lot!) but it should help with ppl who are complaining about not feeling the bumps

Photonenbert
08-05-2015, 11:26
so I tested what you mentioned JamoZ:

What I have experienced:

- I turned off the profiler
- I turned master scale in a car of my choice up to 50 (standard is 26 for all cars)
- I lowered FFB in the configuration to 85 (had 100)

it is different! who knew?

the problem I get with this:

- when I do all 3 of those things I loose the weight shift feeling of the car and have less roadsurface feeling. I will have another go at it with tire force at 100 to see if the strongness of the FFB just overlapped those feelings.

- Master Scale does in fact increase Kerb feedback and such. So for now, I can improve my setup by only adjusting master scale to my liking. (havent fiddeled with per car sliders at all yet!)

more testing !


well if I kill the profiler it starts on its own in the background. then I kill it while pcars is running, but then I get 180 of rotation. weird.

I would just prefer if everybody used his Profiler and fiddles with the settings we have in the game for now as for me it seems to be troublesome as it doesnt react in the same way twice and maybe does weird stuff.


more testing ! (concerning master scale per car setup)



@JamoZ: Does it work for you when using the profiler and then only adjusting the Master Scale ? (guess you have tried this already) but only to see what alone leaving out the profiler does to your FFB.

JamoZ
08-05-2015, 11:36
so I tested what you mentioned JamoZ:

What I have experienced:

- I turned off the profiler
- I turned master scale in a car of my choice up to 50 (standard is 26 for all cars)
- I lowered FFB in the configuration to 85 (had 100)

it is different! who knew?

the problem I get with this:

- when I do all 3 of those things I loose the weight shift feeling of the car and have less roadsurface feeling. I will have another go at it with tire force at 100 to see if the strongness of the FFB just overlapped those feelings.

- Master Scale does in fact increase Kerb feedback and such. So for now, I can improve my setup by only adjusting master scale to my liking. (havent fiddeled with per car sliders at all yet!)

more testing !

Yes please reduce tire force back to 100, i left everything at default to get the purest results. Only the Master scale went up to 50/60. Previously i wasn`t experiencing any weight shifting like i did in AC, and now there is noticably some more coming trough my wheel. Also i can now feel the front loading up under breaking, a point i was missing the most in pCARS. If these settings are too weak i`m sure you can achieve something similar with heavier FFB with some tweaking.

To sum things up so far.

-Turn profiler off completely
-Set overall FFB to around 85
-Set tire force to 100
-Increase incar Master Scale between 50/60

-Drive and report back :)

Photonenbert
08-05-2015, 11:47
Yes please reduce tire force back to 100, i left everything at default to get the purest results. Only the Master scale went up to 50/60. Previously i wasn`t experiencing any weight shifting like i did in AC, and now there is noticably some more coming trough my wheel. Also i can now feel the front loading up under breaking, a point i was missing the most in pCARS. If these settings are too weak i`m sure you can achieve something similar with heavier FFB with some tweaking.

To sum things up so far.

-Turn profiler off completely
-Set overall FFB to around 85
-Set tire force to 100
-Increase incar Master Scale between 50/60

-Drive and report back :)


what you describe looks exactly like what I can feel with my wheel.

so with profiler ON
TF 100
FFB 100
Master scale 26 or 50 or 100

I do get wheigt shift, road surface (bumps but also wheel corrections coming from the car when there is a "wave like" bump and the car dips in due to weight shifting and traction loss/gain) and also I feel the front under braking and I do feel lock up.

all this increases with higher master scale but also the overall strength of FFB increases slightly alongside. so master scale for me is very good to play with, but I dont want to much of it.

for me it seemed that master scale doesnt work exactly as tire force and increases kerbs/bumps/brakelock/gras to a bigger amount compared to overall FFB. (that must be cause I get the same FFB strength than before but have a bit more fore on detailed stuff)

as I mentioned, turning off the profiler seemes to do strange things, I will try again, but I can achieve all of what you mentioned and want and feel and what I feel with it turned on. do you have the newest version of it? just an idea.

more testing !


So if I wanted to increase road feel and kerbs and stuff differently I increase Fz-scale which doesnt interfere with the overall FFB force. does a good job. (see what I posted on the bottom of the guide)

cooly08
08-05-2015, 11:51
Thanks for the guide. I will try this one.
But for me in the calibrating screen, when I place my wheel at 90 (left or rigt) I get a value around 500.

(I have delete the two settings folders from the beta version)

JamoZ
08-05-2015, 11:59
what you describe looks exactly like what I can feel with my wheel.

so with profiler ON
TF 100
FFB 100
Master scale 26 or 50 or 100

I do get wheigt shift, road surface (bumps but also wheel corrections coming from the car when there is a "wave like" bump and the car dips in due to weight shifting and traction loss/gain) and also I feel the front under braking and I do feel lock up.

all this increases with higher master scale but also the overall strength of FFB increases slightly alongside. so master scale for me is very good to play with, but I dont want to much of it.

for me it seemed that master scale doesnt work exactly as tire force and increases kerbs/bumps/brakelock/gras to a bigger amount compared to overall FFB. (that must be cause I get the same FFB strength than before but have a bit more fore on detailed stuff)

as I mentioned, turning off the profiler seemes to do strange things, I will try again, but I can achieve all of what you mentioned and want and feel and what I feel with it turned on. do you have the newest version of it? just an idea.

more testing !


So if I wanted to increase road feel and kerbs and stuff differently I increase Fz-scale which doesnt interfere with the overall FFB force. does a good job. (see what I posted on the bottom of the guide)

Yes i have the newest version. I`m actually quite happy with the settings i`m running now, but i`m still missing some effect from the front tires like scrubbing and road noise. Doesn`t matter which slider i increase, i can`t seem to get any...

Photonenbert
08-05-2015, 12:23
Yes i have the newest version. I`m actually quite happy with the settings i`m running now, but i`m still missing some effect from the front tires like scrubbing and road noise. Doesn`t matter which slider i increase, i can`t seem to get any...

just saw that the "newest" version is 5 years old, so yes, probably everyone is up to date.

Im sry, I cant get it to work without using the profiler. it just gives me 180 and it starts by itself when the game starts even though I killed it. there is no auto function, just system start activation.

but if it helped you thats good and kind of weird.


tire lock up under brake is wheel scrubbing or do you mean understeering? understeering feels as if you are loosing FFB, oversteering is felt by the weight shift and the visual movement. wheel scrubbing itself isnt really felt I guess. you cant get every tiniest detail through the wheel, you will need to upgrade, which is a shitty advice, but the accu force simexperience seems nice.

JamoZ
08-05-2015, 12:33
just saw that the "newest" version is 5 years old, so yes, probably everyone is up to date.

Im sry, I cant get it to work without using the profiler. it just gives me 180 and it starts by itself when the game starts even though I killed it. there is no auto function, just system start activation.

but if it helped you thats good and kind of weird.


tire lock up under brake is wheel scrubbing or do you mean understeering? understeering feels as if you are loosing FFB, oversteering is felt by the weight shift and the visual movement. wheel scrubbing itself isnt really felt I guess. you cant get every tiniest detail through the wheel, you will need to upgrade, which is a shitty advice, but the accu force simexperience seems nice.

Well, some tire scrubbing when experiencing understeer would be nice. But overall i mean more like in RF2. You can feel the wheels really scrubbing over the track hanging on and searching for grip, even on my g25 :) So i guess it isn`t the hardware :P

Photonenbert
08-05-2015, 12:38
Well, some tire scrubbing when experiencing understeer would be nice. But overall i mean more like in RF2. You can feel the wheels really scrubbing over the track hanging on and searching for grip, even on my g25 :) So i guess it isn`t the hardware :P

simulation games differ in terms of "how many stuff is going through your wheel"

so for instance engine vibration or chassis vibration or gear shifting or gear grinding..... those things are not really felt through the wheel. they are felt through the seat. but for that, you need either a motion sim or you need buttkicker. Buttkicker have a very big list of effects for project cars and also other sims that can be set up to a certain part of your rig. for instance if you put 2 butkickers on you seat and drive a rear wheel drive car you can get heavy engine feedback through thos bad boys. or if you put it on your shifter, you get a "hit" every time you shift up. lots of stuff.

but a real life wheel doesnt give you all this feedback, the whole of the car gives itto you.

the wheel is only one part of ForceFeedback if you want to put it like that. and some sims put more stuff into the wheel than there actually is which can lead to wrong impressions.

and the advantage of project cars is the tire model. this is where stuff happens.

JamoZ
08-05-2015, 12:45
simulation games differ in terms of "how many stuff is going through your wheel"

so for instance engine vibration or chassis vibration or gear shifting or gear grindin. those things are not really felt through the wheel. they are felt through the seat. but for that, you need either a motion sim or you need buttkicker. Buttkicker have a very big list of effects for project cars and also other sims that can be set up to a certain part of your rig. for instance if you put 2 butkickers on you seat and drive a rear wheel drive car you can get heavy engine feedback through thos boad boys. or if you put it on your shifter, you get a "hit" every time you shift up. lots of stuff.

but a real life wheel doesnt give you all those feelings, the whole of the car gives them to you, the wheel is only one part of ForceFeedback if you want to put it like that. and some sims put more stuff into the wheel than there actually is which can lead to wrong impressions.

Well, since i`m sitting in a chair behind a computer screen playing a game with a plastic wheel i need as much info as possible of what the car is doing ;)

t0daY
08-05-2015, 12:48
Nice work mate :) I leave you 12 hours alone, and suddenly there is the ultimate g25/g27 guide on the forum :O <3

Wop-Actual
08-05-2015, 20:43
Many thanks to Photonenbert for starting this thread. Ever since the game launched yesterday, I've been navigating countless forums to find the perfect solution to FFB for my G27. Needless to say, there is no magic answer. However, I would like to share my method of achieving the right settings in hopes of helping others in return. I will use the 125cc Kart as an example.

WHEEL: Logitech G27
CAR: 125cc Kart


Logitech Profiler:

This takes into account the following standard settings:

- Use special FFB settings: enabled
- Overall effects strength: 100%
- Spring effect strength: 0%
- Damper effect strength: 0%
- Centering spring strength: 0% (disabled)
- Use special steering wheel settings: enabled
- Report combined pedals: disabled
- Degrees of rotation: 900
- Use special game settings: enabled
- Allow game to adjust settings: enabled


In-game controls options:

Wheel calibration:
Maximum rotation ==> a value of 100 should be achieved when fully rotating wheel
Steering lock ==> a value of 900 should be achieved, should correspond to an angle of 90

Configuration menu:
ForceFeedback ==> 100 (we want the maximum feeling)
If Speed Sensitivity, Controller Filtering Sensitivity and Damper Saturation are not at zero, set them at zero

Force feedback calibration menu:
Tire Force ==> 100 (great general default for all cars)
Deadzone Removal Range ==> 0.18 (as mentioned, the G27 has an 18% "looseness" or deadzone by default)

The rest should remain as defaults.
If Soft Clippings are not at zero, set them at zero.


Per-car Tuning Setup - Force Feedback:

***MAKE SURE ALL SMOOTHING IS AT ZERO***

Spindle Master Scale ==> 36
*26 being default with Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz all at 100
**I chose that number because it came up often in multiple forum threads. It seems to offer great feedback, but without being too violent.
***Remember that once your Fx, Fy and Fz are tweaked, you can always increase or decrease this value slightly for that perfect feeling.

Once that is done, my way of proceeding is to set Fx, Fy and Fz at their lowest value, then start by tweaking Fx and testing it out on the track.

Fx ==> 18.01
*This number coincides with the 18% Deadzone Removal Range (Pure coincidence? Maybe...).
**High values tend to violently shake the steering wheel when accelerating, braking and turning. So I increase it until the jittering is barely noticeable.
***This value translates speeding and braking forces, something I particularly don't see as most important. As mentioned, too high and wheel shaking becomes uncontrollable.

Once your Fx is set, keep that value and proceed to Fy.

Fy ==> 58.00
*This value is easy enough to figure out. It plays a lot on the amount of tension in the wheel when turning.
**Find a good balance between breaking your arms and not feeling when you're losing controls.
***The value chosen is my preference for the 125cc Kart. Yours might be different.

Once the Fy is set, keep the value and proceed to Fz.

Fz ==> 100.01
*This one is fun. It translates tire contact with the road. You should be feeling the wheel shake when losing contact and coming back down, hitting bumps and curbs.
**This is purely set to one's preference. Higher than 100, I find I lose control of the wheel when rolling on curbs due to the amount of feedback received.
***If you really want to feel the road speak to you, increase it to your liking.


Don't forget to save the settings to all circuits. It will save you some headaches later when tweaking the vehicle for each circuit.

Cheers!

yusupov
08-05-2015, 21:23
those look like potentially great settings, def very interesting! ive got vertical load at 100 too. i do think the other forces could be lighter (with higher master spindle #) to feel more detail tho...those look promising! thanks alot for sharing

yusupov
08-05-2015, 21:29
and btw i agree, rf2 is FFB king...its amazing, i feel like i have spidey senses when i use that sim and its all just thru my little g27. its gold standard stuff, i dont expect anyone to match it. but its worth trying! :D

yusupov
09-05-2015, 00:05
so guys, @jamoz's DUMBtweak (as i am now calling it, we can make up what dumb stands for later if it stays this simple..or not) is a definite go for me.

i cant launch without the logitech profiler but (i think) placebo effect kicked in for me. i was trying to think what the difference could be if it was on or off, & i remembered that center spring isnt checked by defaul in the global profile. so i uncheck that, randomly pick the huayra, set master to 52 (simply doubling the default # of 26), remove x-axis smoothing, & it feels...well, as he described, quite a bit like assetto corsa. it def wasnt too heavy, it felt about right. i could tell i wasnt clipping, confirmed this w/ the meter to be sure.

but its missing the one crucial thing that makes AC ffb special to me -- (i rate it second along w/ SCE to rf2, despite it not having the detail (imo) of either) -- the feeling of inertia, momentum, weight transfer that seems to slide thru the wheel. but, i think i know (in theory) how that might be achieved here -- the SoP settings suggest they might be able to send this behavior to the wheel.

i saw a thread earlier where someone had posted he thinks these are pretty crucial to his ffb tweaks, but i cant find it now -- was on here or RD. i tried throwing up some random #s but they just made the ffb stiffer/deader, not at all what im looking for...

so, for me at least, more cause for optimism.

even if you dont like AC ffb, still give this a try if youre not satisfied atm -- its just too easy not to.

all you have to do:

-default everything FFB-wise
-setup logitech profiler as normal (experiment w/ running without) -- mine is 100/0/0, spring unchecked (dont think this is important, but if checked, be sure to put at 0), 900 degrees, allow game to adjust settings.
-pick a car & track
-in the setup screen, under force feedback, just double the number -- 52. again, this # is random atm, & it should probably vary, ideally, from car to car, & perhaps track to track as well
-(optional) remove the 10% smoothing on the x-axis. im not sure why this is there, or if its positive bc ive never intentionally used it tbh, im also not sure, if you have damper @ 0% in the profiler as i do, its needed to do this to remove the effect.

so thats it. whats changed is your raw surface feel (bumps, curbs, etc) has gone from non-existent to what i would rate as very good, & in theory anyway, the effect of lateral & longitudinal forces are now twice as strong, without clipping. all of that (to me anyway) is good stuff.

so: if you use a logitech wheel (maybe any wheel?) and one of your complaints has to do w/ road surface (since i see this a lot), this is the simplest, fastest, dumbest way to get it -- and, to my knowledge anyway, youre still feeling all the other forces intended -- just even better.

JamoZ
09-05-2015, 07:54
so guys, @jamoz's DUMBtweak (as i am now calling it, we can make up what dumb stands for later if it stays this simple..or not) is a definite go for me.

i cant launch without the logitech profiler but (i think) placebo effect kicked in for me. i was trying to think what the difference could be if it was on or off, & i remembered that center spring isnt checked by defaul in the global profile. so i uncheck that, randomly pick the huayra, set master to 52 (simply doubling the default # of 26), remove x-axis smoothing, & it feels...well, as he described, quite a bit like assetto corsa. it def wasnt too heavy, it felt about right. i could tell i wasnt clipping, confirmed this w/ the meter to be sure.

but its missing the one crucial thing that makes AC ffb special to me -- (i rate it second along w/ SCE to rf2, despite it not having the detail (imo) of either) -- the feeling of inertia, momentum, weight transfer that seems to slide thru the wheel. but, i think i know (in theory) how that might be achieved here -- the SoP settings suggest they might be able to send this behavior to the wheel.

i saw a thread earlier where someone had posted he thinks these are pretty crucial to his ffb tweaks, but i cant find it now -- was on here or RD. i tried throwing up some random #s but they just made the ffb stiffer/deader, not at all what im looking for...

so, for me at least, more cause for optimism.

even if you dont like AC ffb, still give this a try if youre not satisfied atm -- its just too easy not to.

all you have to do:

-default everything FFB-wise
-setup logitech profiler as normal (experiment w/ running without) -- mine is 100/0/0, spring unchecked (dont think this is important, but if checked, be sure to put at 0), 900 degrees, allow game to adjust settings.
-pick a car & track
-in the setup screen, under force feedback, just double the number -- 52. again, this # is random atm, & it should probably vary, ideally, from car to car, & perhaps track to track as well
-(optional) remove the 10% smoothing on the x-axis. im not sure why this is there, or if its positive bc ive never intentionally used it tbh, im also not sure, if you have damper @ 0% in the profiler as i do, its needed to do this to remove the effect.

so thats it. whats changed is your raw surface feel (bumps, curbs, etc) has gone from non-existent to what i would rate as very good, & in theory anyway, the effect of lateral & longitudinal forces are now twice as strong, without clipping. all of that (to me anyway) is good stuff.

so: if you use a logitech wheel (maybe any wheel?) and one of your complaints has to do w/ road surface (since i see this a lot), this is the simplest, fastest, dumbest way to get it -- and, to my knowledge anyway, youre still feeling all the other forces intended -- just even better.

I`d go with the DUMBtweak as it`s rather dumb of me not to think of trying this any sooner :rolleyes:. I know it might now work for everyone, but i`ve tried disabling the Logitech Profiler completely on 3 systems (2 x g25 & 1x g27) and the results were similar.

-More Inertia coming trough wheel
-More feeling loading up the front wheels during braking
-Less spring driven FFB
-Light FFB in the center which loads up nicely entering a corner ( similar to AC )

I`m still searching for a way to get any feeling from the front tires under locking up or understeering, but there definitely is a improvement for me NOT using the Logitech Control panel.

Henk de Jong
09-05-2015, 11:04
Looking good, tire force 110 gives me just a little more feeling the low curbs. For the rest same as you posted for now.

BloodCat
09-05-2015, 13:01
First time wheel user here. :) So I made all the adjustments just like OP said, and took a 125cc kart for a drive. Never driven a kart IRL, but handling really feels inconsistent -- way too much centering force, for example. Can be shown by this: take a kart, stop it and turn your wheels all the way to, say, right. Kick in 1st gear and start to accelerate slowly -- suddenly your steerin wheel would be thrown all the way to the left (not just centered), and then back, until it's centered eventually. What am I doing wrong?
Although took an Evo X for a ride at Nordschleife. Steering feels like this car has no power steering at all. O.o Took my Impreza (not a sportcar, I know, but still) to an empty lot and tried some sharp turns at 70-80 kmh -- it was easier to do IRL than in pCARS!
Using Logitech G27 here.
OT: and if someone could give me some advice for setting steering/FFB at Shift 2 -- I'd be very very happy.

Photonenbert
09-05-2015, 15:25
First time wheel user here. :) So I made all the adjustments just like OP said, and took a 125cc kart for a drive. Never driven a kart IRL, but handling really feels inconsistent -- way too much centering force, for example. Can be shown by this: take a kart, stop it and turn your wheels all the way to, say, right. Kick in 1st gear and start to accelerate slowly -- suddenly your steerin wheel would be thrown all the way to the left (not just centered), and then back, until it's centered eventually. What am I doing wrong?
Although took an Evo X for a ride at Nordschleife. Steering feels like this car has no power steering at all. O.o Took my Impreza (not a sportcar, I know, but still) to an empty lot and tried some sharp turns at 70-80 kmh -- it was easier to do IRL than in pCARS!
Using Logitech G27 here.
OT: and if someone could give me some advice for setting steering/FFB at Shift 2 -- I'd be very very happy.

I recommend using a GT3 car for setting up your Wheel

a kart drives competely different from all other cars and may give you the wrong impression.

Roger Prynne
09-05-2015, 17:09
I thought this might help some of you guys having problems with the FFB...


https://youtu.be/mlOdRTB4njY

GRACELAND1
09-05-2015, 17:31
thanks for the guide Great

Photonenbert
09-05-2015, 17:36
thanks for the guide Great


glad we can help !

SoTricky
09-05-2015, 20:09
Why when I try to do the first step in my Profiler does it not show the right wheel? I have a g27 and this is what i see. http://gyazo.com/ade72d20b0cb7d924316cbc5be921c8b

SlickReed
09-05-2015, 21:48
OMG this has changed the game for me. Thank you for this info. Feels like i can actually drive now.

yusupov
09-05-2015, 21:50
Why when I try to do the first step in my Profiler does it not show the right wheel? I have a g27 and this is what i see. http://gyazo.com/ade72d20b0cb7d924316cbc5be921c8b

never seen this...really weird. have you tried deleting & reinstalling the drivers?

Photonenbert
09-05-2015, 21:51
Why when I try to do the first step in my Profiler does it not show the right wheel? I have a g27 and this is what i see. http://gyazo.com/ade72d20b0cb7d924316cbc5be921c8b

try a different usb port. also you need the newest version of the profiler. weird bug

xmotorxbreathx
09-05-2015, 23:35
FFB fixed for me on my G25!

Like many said:
-Leave the logitech profiler off
-Leave every settings at default (even master FFB to 85%)
-Take 15 minutes and change the FFB of every car to 50, 70, >>90%<<, instead of 26%....and save it for every track.
-Enjoy having FFB!

BloodCat
10-05-2015, 00:12
I recommend using a GT3 car for setting up your Wheel

Thing is, I don't know how a GT3 car should feel. Closest cars I've driven IRL were rally cars -- that's why I took Evo X for a Nordschleife drive. Would cars from a Road group do for a set up?


a kart drives competely different from all other cars and may give you the wrong impression.

So kart drives THAT differently? With such side to side wheel throwing? Or is something off indeed?

thebarend
10-05-2015, 00:15
Does any one know what the grey line is for on the ffb meter, messing with the clio ffb settings and noticed the grey line, it only appears when i use certain settings.

SoTricky
10-05-2015, 00:41
try a different usb port. also you need the newest version of the profiler. weird bug

OMG!! it worked!! thank you so much now I just have to try it in Project cars

Rudee
10-05-2015, 07:27
Much appreciated. Thank you!

gtsr69
10-05-2015, 07:38
thank you so much now its to its full potensial:triumphant:

sk1der
10-05-2015, 08:27
Thank you for this guide, i never checked it before with the deadzone range...very good

mcmjau
10-05-2015, 13:27
Hi guys,

Is it possible to get a shake effect in the wheel when hard braking in cars witout ABS, an effect like in AC or R3E?

Zub31
10-05-2015, 15:00
Very good, this setup in first page is good for Thrustmaster T300 ?
I'm looking for good setup guide for T300

Sorry for my bad english,

Lars Rosenquist
10-05-2015, 17:37
Thank you for this guide, i never checked it before with the deadzone range...very good

On a lot of wheels with very little FFB deadzone, it really doesn't matter. But when your wheel has a large FFB deadzone (either straight out of the box, or due to age/wear, etc.) it can be the difference between dead FFB and extremely detailed FFB.

DankKronix77
10-05-2015, 21:25
Thank you for this guide. Helped a lot with setup.

I personally think the amount of FFB settings in this game is a tab overkill. I understand most of them but the sliders in the car tuning is just over kill.

Photonenbert
10-05-2015, 21:53
Very good, this setup in first page is good for Thrustmaster T300 ?
I'm looking for good setup guide for T300

Sorry for my bad english,

different wheel different setup. sry I cant help you with that, as I dont own a T300. I hope we get some more setup guides/tips for other wheels as well.

But for the start you can try this. your t300 probably needs a different amount of deadzone removal range. the value is different with each wheel !

also the jack spade tweaks are universal and for any wheel as well!

Mahjik
10-05-2015, 22:46
Thank you for this guide. Helped a lot with setup.

I personally think the amount of FFB settings in this game is a tab overkill. I understand most of them but the sliders in the car tuning is just over kill.

Give it some time. Before you know it, there are going to be boat-loads of FFB Tweak files floating around that you can just download and try out. The start of something like this is always a little rough until we build the community. That is exactly what this forum is for. ;)

locodebom
11-05-2015, 02:16
What is the option that forces the steering wheel when the car is completely stopped ? It is very hard move wheel and i cant feel ripples on the track, like corners.

Rodaux
11-05-2015, 04:36
Guys i was a little disapointed by the game at first because of this "dumb" FFB. Now i got everything runing fine. Hope it helps someone.

I would like to thanks the OP, it was of great help.

PS: sorry for the screenshots in portuguese, but you may figure it out by the titles on every menu.

1.Config Logitech profiler and let it runing
2.Config the controler menu ingame
3.Config the FFB menu ingame
4.Now its time to tune in car settings, you have to do this to all cars, or just do it before you start a race and its fine.

If you have any questions, need translation on the screenshots or just want to leave your feedback about it im here to help.


201387

201388

201389

201390

201391

Fidius
11-05-2015, 05:46
would this set up work with the Logitech Driving Force GT?....

yusupov
11-05-2015, 06:03
yes, but DFGT has a much smaller deadzone, use something like 0.05

Zub31
11-05-2015, 06:47
different wheel different setup. sry I cant help you with that, as I dont own a T300. I hope we get some more setup guides/tips for other wheels as well.

But for the start you can try this. your t300 probably needs a different amount of deadzone removal range. the value is different with each wheel !

also the jack spade tweaks are universal and for any wheel as well!

Ok, thank's

Mcleod
11-05-2015, 07:08
Hi guys, just been following this setup guide which is great btw.

One thing I get don't get though, when I run the wheel check program as shown I get a max FFB Offset of 1.0%, from what I've read this is low for a G27. My wheel is fairly new, probably been used for around 20 hours - will this make a difference ?

Lars Rosenquist
11-05-2015, 08:24
Hi guys, just been following this setup guide which is great btw.

One thing I get don't get though, when I run the wheel check program as shown I get a max FFB Offset of 1.0%, from what I've read this is low for a G27. My wheel is fairly new, probably been used for around 20 hours - will this make a difference ?
Yes, it will. Just make sure you have run the test at 100% FFB strength and not higher (e.g. 107% or even 120% is popular), because the game will not go higher than 100%.

Everfire
11-05-2015, 09:52
yes, but DFGT has a much smaller deadzone, use something like 0.05

I'll be trying this guide to setup my DFGT tonite (spent too much time adjusting settings but never finding any particular setting I'm 100% happy with) - I'll post tonite with my feedback on how it works for a DFGT. If it doesn't work I'll just have get a better wheel ;)

Many many thanks to the op for posting this though - very helpful! :)

mahler491
11-05-2015, 11:53
Logitech G27: problems with calibration of the pedals

Hi, while the calibration of the G27 the pedals are not recognized by the program. The wheel is O.K. Another posting says to close Pcars, play with the pedals and start again. But this does not work. Now, is there anyone who can help? Wolfgang

McGti
11-05-2015, 11:55
nice setup but the tyre force should not be higher than 100 otherwise you geld massive amounts of clipping, you can check out if you have clipping by changing the HUD until there is a graph on the top left.

Roger Prynne
11-05-2015, 12:00
nice setup but the tyre force should not be higher than 100 otherwise you geld massive amounts of clipping, you can check out if you have clipping by changing the HUD until there is a graph on the top left.

More than a 100 will not produce clipping if other forces are lowered though.

seanos
11-05-2015, 12:30
I've got some questions that some of you might know the answers to... I've got a G27 so i may as well ask them here.

Firstly, clipping. Is that where the top and bottom of the sine curve on the telemetry graph goes flat? I've noticed that depending on the strength of the ffb that there's quite a large rise/fall of the line on the telemetry graph when say, turning the wheel for instance. The heavier the wheel, the larger the rise and fall. The way i have it set up right now, the ffb is quite strong, but feels pretty good, with lots of ffb being transmitted for bumps in the road (high Fz value in splindle of about 130). However, when turning right, the line moves nearly to the top of the graph, and indeed there are times with big jolts (mainly hitting curbs/grass etc) where the top of the graph flattens along the top of the meter. Is this an indication that i've hit them limit of what the wheel is capable of handling?

As a follow up question to this: What would i need to adjust to reduce the level of ffb for things like turning (ie a little lighter wheel feel) while still keeping the rather agressive z-axis road bump feel? it seems that the bumps, coupled with the rather heavier wheel feel is causing the ffb to max out and clip, but turning some overall ffb settings down like global ffb, tire force and spindle master scale dramatically reduce the surface detail of the road.

Also, just wondering what smoothing and damping actually are. Smoothing sounds like it would smooth out some of the fast changes in force direction, for instance when running the wheel over a curb and getting the rather sharp, rapid vibration (shown on the telemetry as a violent and rather jagged line on the graph.. this sounds good, but i also think it might just smooth over some of the subtle road bumps and wash them out completely. I have no clue what damping is.

Ideally, i'm looking for a ffb that is on the light side (doesnt require great effort when turning), still heavy enough that still lets me know when i've lost traction/weight shifts, has a decent amount of road detail from bumps and the like, AND doesn't clip. As it is now, the steering is a little heavy, and while i'm getting pretty good feel for road bumps, the curbs/grass is causing it to clip (if my assumptions on what clipping is are correct, flat lining at top/bottom of sine curve etc).

I feel that i'm close, but I'm really not sure what settings i should be adjusting to achieve this.

deedriver
11-05-2015, 14:39
People who helped with this guide or actually came up with the stuff in here:

ToDaYiSmYdAY, Lars Rosenquist, Drukhi, Mahjik, Jack Spade, and a bunch of other guys I probably forgot.
Big Thank You guys! without your help my set up would just be as shitty as it could be

Welcome to this guide!

This should help uninformed new users to get the most out of their G25/G27 Logitech Wheel. (if any WMD members noticed that I missed something please tell me)

Having set up your wheel correctly (no matter what wheel) determines whether you are going to experience what you should or not. And what you should experience is the full potential of a simulation title.

Any wheel used in any game can give you a shi**y experience even though only one tiny slider is set at 0.15 instead of 0.25.

So dont give up if something doesnt feel as you expected it to on the first run. Inform yourself and ask us. We're here to help.




First: Logitech Profiler___________________________________________________________________________________________

200462


After you have made a new profile for project cars go to "Specific Game Settings".



Adjust like so:

- Use special FFB settings: enabled (of course)

- Overall effects strength: 100-107%

- Spring effect strength: 0%

- Damper effect strength: 0%

- Enable Centering Spring: disabled

- Centering spring strength: 0%

- use special steering wheel settings: enabled

- report combined pedals: disabled

- degrees of rotation: 900

- use special game settings: enabled

- allow game to adjust settings: enabled




Second: In Game Settings__________________________________________________________________________________________



Go to the controls menu and chose "Logitech G25 seperate pedals"
200463


Click "Calibrate Wheel"

1st: You have to turn the wheel until it stops and reaches its maximum lock.
200464

2nd: turn the wheel 90 clock or anticlockwise. "steering lock" should be at 900 (if its at 899 you will die. dont ask what will happen at 901) Click "finish".
200465

Click "Calibrate Pedals"

Game says it all: "Depress all pedals as far as possible" Do it now! The values should all be at 100 Click "finish".
If they are not at 100: normally when you first start your PC you should have pressed/depressed all pedals before you start the game. You might need a retry at this. If it still doesnt work restart the game and play a bit with the pedals, it will work. Don't play with them while in the settings menu, pedal input navigates through the settings and might do damage.
200466


Go to "Configuration"

Now, you can leave the pedal deadzones (throttle/brake/clutch) at 6 or put them to 0 if you like.
200467

Set Force Feedback to 100. Go back. Don't touch anything else. good. thanks. your welcome.
200468

Click "Calibrate Force Feedback"

At first I recommend setting tire force to 100. You can adjust it to your liking or you adjust the per car FFB settings like master scale or Fx, Fz etc.) see below. I like 200 but thats personal taste! just try some settings
200469

So. There is a LOT of stuff going on in this section and I'm sry to tell you this: I dont know shit about 14 of these sliders. But I know something about the remaining 2!
One that I just mentioned "tire force" and the last and most important slider in this guide:
"Deadzone Removal Range"
200470





Third: Deadzone Removal Range:_______________________________________________________________________________

Now this bad boy wants some attention!

You will need to adjust the Deadzone Removal Range to compensate for washed out effects in FFB.

Some people said that their G27 just didnt feel as sharp as the G25 with the same settings. That is because the G27 has skew gears instead of straight gears and just works a tiny bit differently.

So I will only look at the G25/G27 for now.

If you did as I said before: FFB strength Profiler 100-107% / In game FFB 100%

The G25 has a standard FFBbaseOffset-value of around 3.5% - 7%. This may vary a bit!

The G27 however has a FFBbaseOffset-value of whopping 18% or even more with the same settings applied.

The ideal value would be 0% for any wheel.

If you want to lower your FFB strength and set "Force Feedback" to maybe 80 or 60 in the game, you will need to adjust a higher Deadzone Removal Range value !
Again, when lowering FFB strenght more and more effects will get lost if you didnt adjust Deadzone Removal Range as well and it just doesnt feel as good as it could be. You can try to lower FFB by using Tire Force instead of FFB Strength in game.

To get your very own FFBbaseOffset-value if you want: download "wheel checker 1.72."

https://mega.co.nz/#!wt4UzboQ!r70tMEAqOxY1UZxSviiukJs29OfSyIBBJYULPWWyNCg


Just open it, no need to install.


Click on "Spring Force"and go to "min force". Make sure you dont touch your wheel for the next few seconds.
At the bottom you can read out the value that applies to your wheel and settings.
200471
Take that exact value and put it in Deadzone Removal Range. So if wheel checker says 5.0%, Deadzone Removal Range should be at 0.05
If it is at 18%, in game should be at 0.18.


As I said, lowering FFB strength will result in higher FFBbaseOffset values !

Now you can adjust any slider to your liking. Keep in mind that the G27 may react differently to value changes compared to the G25! (as you noticed with Deadzone Removal Range)




Congratulations! You now have a very good starting point for adjusting those other 14 sliders!

You may contact me if you seem to have found the pinnacle of G25 performance. (maybe I already did)



But Photonenbert, what should I do when I want to have different FFB on different cars?

You read my guide ! Hey!

Each car on his own has some FFB settings as well.

Someone already explained them in here (as well FFB overall and Tire Force again):




There are also FFB tweaking files done by Jack Spade:

Have a look here! http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files

;) thanks for this , great help was going nuts till i found your tips

Mcleod
11-05-2015, 19:01
Logitech G27: problems with calibration of the pedals

Hi, while the calibration of the G27 the pedals are not recognized by the program. The wheel is O.K. Another posting says to close Pcars, play with the pedals and start again. But this does not work. Now, is there anyone who can help? Wolfgang

Hi, do you have it set to wheel with combined pedals ? If so you need to change it to separate pedals, I had same issue.

jaymondo
11-05-2015, 19:55
I would like to say thanks for all this information, you have made the game for me a much more enjoyable experience.

Roger Prynne
11-05-2015, 20:29
If you have 'allow game to adjust settings: enabled' then ' Overall effects strength: 107%' wont make any difference as it only reads op to 100% in game.

victorjrc
11-05-2015, 22:47
Some one would tell me which slider represent the auto center force when the car is stopped?

Sguby
12-05-2015, 14:22
Hello,
Thanks a lot for this guide, but I'm facing an issue regarding this point :

2nd: turn the wheel 90 clock or anticlockwise. "steering lock" should be at 900 (if its at 899 you will die. dont ask what will happen at 901) Click "finish".
Am I the only one that cannot reach 900 ?
My G27 get exactly stuck at 899 or 901, in fact it only goes 2 by 2. It seems impossible to reach 900 :(

Baz2126
12-05-2015, 14:55
Hello,
Thanks a lot for this guide, but I'm facing an issue regarding this point :

Am I the only one that cannot reach 900 ?
My G27 get exactly stuck at 899 or 901, in fact it only goes 2 by 2. It seems impossible to reach 900 :(

Nope me too have u seemed to fix yet mate

Sguby
12-05-2015, 15:08
Nope me too have u seemed to fix yet mate
Unfortunately no, I tried several times (in fact each time I'm lauching the game) but with no success.
If anyone as the clue, (s)he will be very welcome :)

Baz2126
12-05-2015, 15:22
Unfortunately no, I tried several times (in fact each time I'm lauching the game) but with no success.
If anyone as the clue, (s)he will be very welcome :)

Ive figured it out mate turn the opposite way to which you are turning the wheel it hits 900 one way but 899 the other. Now i have a problem with the accelrate pedal not working but when i calibrate it, it goes to 100 but not been recognised in game??? Any thoughts anyone

Sguby
12-05-2015, 15:27
Thanks, I'll try when back home tonight.
For you throttle problem, I've also noticed that but on certain tracks only (i.e. Glencairn with the 125CC shifter). I didn't have time to go further on any investigation though...

Henk de Jong
12-05-2015, 15:45
Ive figured it out mate turn the opposite way to which you are turning the wheel it hits 900 one way but 899 the other. Now i have a problem with the accelrate pedal not working but when i calibrate it, it goes to 100 but not been recognised in game??? Any thoughts anyone

Before you press start to calibrate fully press and release all the pedals once. After that you should be fine.

Roger Prynne
12-05-2015, 15:49
Before you start the game make sure you fully depress all the pedals (no need to calibrate in game then) I haven't calibrated in game for over 2 years now.

Sguby
12-05-2015, 15:57
Before you press start to calibrate fully press and release all the pedals once. After that you should be fine.
I don't know for Baz2126, but I'm not sure it's a calibration problem.
He says that the pedal doesn't respond in game. I've noticed the same for me on Glencairn in free practice, but it was working fine in Dubai ten minutes before...

Photonenbert
12-05-2015, 16:30
I don't know for Baz2126, but I'm not sure it's a calibration problem.
He says that the pedal doesn't respond in game. I've noticed the same for me on Glencairn in free practice, but it was working fine in Dubai ten minutes before...

you have "seperate" pedals set up?

Mahjik
12-05-2015, 17:17
Hello,
Thanks a lot for this guide, but I'm facing an issue regarding this point :

Am I the only one that cannot reach 900 ?
My G27 get exactly stuck at 899 or 901, in fact it only goes 2 by 2. It seems impossible to reach 900 :(

It doesn't need to be exact.

Roger Prynne
12-05-2015, 17:32
899 or 901 is not going to make any difference at all.

Baz2126
12-05-2015, 17:47
you have "seperate" pedals set up?

Yes ive noticed that the accelerate pedal works when u are on a track where it auto starts you but if u have to start then it wont work.

Baz2126
12-05-2015, 18:11
Also I don't think these settings are working. I know a lot of work has gone into them but the feel you get from the wheel is nearly none existant I want to be fighting with the wheel I tried these settings and it was just sooooooo smooth. I have a t100 set up on the ps4 and that actually feels better than this g27 im a little disappointed as I went out and bought this wheel today and at first impressions im not happy

LiL_T
12-05-2015, 19:13
During "Calibrate Wheel", I can never get 900 degrees with my G27, more like 860. My wheel is set to 900 degrees in the logitech software.
Anything I should be worried about?


I cant even get it past 280 for some reason but thats the least of my problems, my brakes and clutch don't work either. When I try to download and install the profiler or driver for this my G27 it just gives me this message. 201882
I have tried pretty much all the suggestions on various sites. I am using windows & os and the wheel seems to respond in the windows hardware calibration. Any help would be much appreciated, Thanks and hope to see you on the track ( or maybe in the wall if this clutch and brake dont work)

Photonenbert
12-05-2015, 22:17
Also I don't think these settings are working. I know a lot of work has gone into them but the feel you get from the wheel is nearly none existant I want to be fighting with the wheel I tried these settings and it was just sooooooo smooth. I have a t100 set up on the ps4 and that actually feels better than this g27 im a little disappointed as I went out and bought this wheel today and at first impressions im not happy

if you want more force then increase tire force. Small steps, as this will increase the risk of clipping. (I drive at 200 as I found 100 to weak, but that is personal taste !)

Photonenbert
12-05-2015, 22:19
I cant even get it past 280 for some reason but thats the least of my problems, my brakes and clutch don't work either. When I try to download and install the profiler or driver for this my G27 it just gives me this message. 201882
I have tried pretty much all the suggestions on various sites. I am using windows & os and the wheel seems to respond in the windows hardware calibration. Any help would be much appreciated, Thanks and hope to see you on the track ( or maybe in the wall if this clutch and brake dont work)

I really cant help you with this, just as an idea, but maybe try updating NET framework? causes many problems for me if I have the wrong versions (you can install more than one! some applications need older versions to work properly and the Profiler is not that new)

also maybe try starting installation as administrator.

RythmicOne
13-05-2015, 04:34
I didn't find the initial setup to be very good for me. I couldn't keep the car straight. My wheel has a 16% offset. It is hard to keep the 125cc Kart on the road. Wants to just pull left and right all day. Wonder what the deal is? I have a g27

Everfire
13-05-2015, 08:22
Everyone has different prefs to how they like their wheel to feel, try to remember this when reading guides as the way someone has their setting might be the complete opposite to how you like it :)

However, I used this guide to change/edit settings for my DFGT wheel and actually found that it was pretty spot on for this wheel also - again this is based on my prefs for feel though. I did find though that I had to set the Deadzone higher than 0.05 (currently at 0.08) and I'm happy with this setting now.

Again, many many thanks OP as this guide helped put me on the right settings to adjust (plus also to Jack Spade's guide as well!)

Photonenbert
13-05-2015, 09:03
I didn't find the initial setup to be very good for me. I couldn't keep the car straight. My wheel has a 16% offset. It is hard to keep the 125cc Kart on the road. Wants to just pull left and right all day. Wonder what the deal is? I have a g27

deadzone removal range needs to be at 18% or even higher (as said in the guide). g27 is a wheel with huge sta dard deadzone und you need to compensate for that. also try your FFB settings with a proper race car like a GT3 car instaed of using the kart

ESEAone
13-05-2015, 09:44
I have a G27 wheel and pedals, the pedals have been modded with hall sensors and using a Leo Bodnar cable adaptor, they work with Assetto Corsa (though sometimes when starting for the first time after a reboot I do not get any accelerator, brake and clutch. I usually restart AC or calibrating using Leo Bodnar cable settings and presto they are all there ) However with PCARS I only get accelerator and brake in PCARS settings when calibrating I press the pedals, only the accelerator and clutch register to 100 but nothing on the brake!
Anyone have any Ideas?
Maybe it is time to open up the pedals and have a look at the sensors but I find it odd that AC works and PC doesn't!

zorranco-
13-05-2015, 10:00
I can't understand how game lacks an option to set wheel degrees. Tried:

-Change wheel degrees on logitech driver (works in ASsetto Corsa but not here)
-Change direction sensitivity
-Fool game's calibration turning only to the desired maximum (not the maximum of the wheel)
-Lowering steering ratio in car setup (ok, this works, but has a MINIMUM effect and in any case is like lowering wheel degrees from 900 to, say, 600). Not to mention you should do this for every car...

None of this works...no matter what I try, game is stuck at 900

PD: see

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22765-How-to-change-the-steering-wheel-degrees-of-rotation

Photonenbert
13-05-2015, 11:40
I can't understand how game lacks an option to set wheel degrees. Tried:

-Change wheel degrees on logitech driver (works in ASsetto Corsa but not here)
-Change direction sensitivity
-Fool game's calibration turning only to the desired maximum (not the maximum of the wheel)
-Lowering steering ratio in car setup (ok, this works, but has a MINIMUM effect and in any case is like lowering wheel degrees from 900 to, say, 600). Not to mention you should do this for every car...

None of this works...no matter what I try, game is stuck at 900

PD: see

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22765-How-to-change-the-steering-wheel-degrees-of-rotation


project cars sets steering ratios per car. So a GT3 car doesnt have 900 but more like 540. Why would you like to have a lower steering ratio?

zorranco-
13-05-2015, 12:00
I am not thaat pro, but even with this per-car ratio, still feel uncomfortable with GT3s...

Now thanks to that user in the other thread, I know that if you change steering ratio in boxes, it does not apply (bug?)...but if you do same thing in my garage, it works...This was driving me crazy....Pity that you must do this in all cars, but at least I can configure to my taste.

Thanks!

RythmicOne
13-05-2015, 17:46
deadzone removal range needs to be at 18% or even higher (as said in the guide). g27 is a wheel with huge sta dard deadzone und you need to compensate for that. also try your FFB settings with a proper race car like a GT3 car instaed of using the kart

I appreciate the guide, but something must have been going wrong somewhere. I tried a few cars and it was impossible to keep any car straight. I reloaded everything and started from the top, and got it to feel better by tweaking the individual car settings. My wheel has a 16% offset.

Jack Spade
13-05-2015, 18:29
@Photonenbert


If you want to lower your FFB strength and set "Force Feedback" to maybe 80 or 60 in the game

It was topic in WMD forum lots of times FFB in game always at 100 any wheel. Lower values reducing the dynamic FFB range. In my opinion SMS should have hard coded at 100
and parameter out off the game, a never ending point of confusion. Adjdusting FFB force = Tire Force.

Lars Rosenquist
13-05-2015, 19:58
Lower values reducing the dynamic FFB range.On G27 it's even worse because lowering FFB strength increases FFB deadzone as well, so you end up with even less dynamics. E.g. on my own wheel, at 100% FFB and 18% deadzone, effective range is 82%. But at 85%, the deadzone becomes 33%, so effective range is only 52%. Which means no subtlety in FX whatsoever.

ESEAone
14-05-2015, 07:21
I have a G27 wheel and pedals, the pedals have been modded with hall sensors and using a Leo Bodnar cable adaptor, they work with Assetto Corsa (though sometimes when starting for the first time after a reboot I do not get any accelerator, brake and clutch. I usually restart AC or calibrating using Leo Bodnar cable settings and presto they are all there ) However with PCARS I only get accelerator and brake in PCARS settings when calibrating I press the pedals, only the accelerator and clutch register to 100 but nothing on the brake!
Anyone have any Ideas?
Maybe it is time to open up the pedals and have a look at the sensors but I find it odd that AC works and PC doesn't!
I feel a bit stuuuupid!, as Clarkson would say. When I tried to get this going I had looked a the "EDIT ASSIGNMENTS" tab and clicked onto the brake parameter, I did not realise that I just had to push the pedal to assign it. I had a brain fart and was expecting something like " Push the pedal/button now" message and thought I had missed something! :confused:

Photonenbert
14-05-2015, 08:31
@Photonenbert



It was topic in WMD forum lots of times FFB in game always at 100 any wheel. Lower values reducing the dynamic FFB range. In my opinion SMS should have hard coded at 100
and parameter out off the game, a never ending point of confusion. Adjdusting FFB force = Tire Force.

thanks vor the reply, Ive edited it!

Quick question: How das master spindle affect the FFB strength? is it more like Tire Force than overall FFB or different from both?

RythmicOne
14-05-2015, 16:13
Got everything going pretty good now. Re-installed all my Logitech drivers and profilers, recalibrated and set in profiler and in game parameters and its looking pretty good now!

Andrew_WOT
14-05-2015, 19:25
Great guide.
Did you just forget to mention Damper Saturation to 0, it seems at 0 on the picture but no mentioning in the guide itself.

Photonenbert
14-05-2015, 19:28
Great guide.
Did you just forget to mention Damper Saturation to 0, it seems at 0 on the picture but no mentioning in the guide itself.

thanks!
its standard at zero.

I didnt talk about every slider in-game as I do not know what the heck it is that some of them are doing

CQR_CHRiS
14-05-2015, 20:25
No matter what I do FFB wise with my G25 i'm getting constant clipping. Even with no feel down straights the second I touch a kerb it goes crazy.

This is what the SuperKarts do and I can't find anyway to stop it. As soon as I leave pits it sets off, really need to know what the cause is before it ruins the wheel.
https://twitter.com/ScouserChris88/status/598411275471867904

The superkarts to me looks like a bug as other cars at least I can race but these are impossible to even roll out the pits on any track.

Lars Rosenquist
14-05-2015, 21:14
No matter what I do FFB wise with my G25 i'm getting constant clipping. Even with no feel down straights the second I touch a kerb it goes crazy.

This is what the SuperKarts do and I can't find anyway to stop it. As soon as I leave pits it sets off, really need to know what the cause is before it ruins the wheel.Settings (FFB, LT Profiler, etc.)?

Roger Prynne
14-05-2015, 21:24
Yeah when reporting something please give as much info as you can so we may help you better.
What are your FFB settings and do you use tweakers.

CQR_CHRiS
14-05-2015, 21:35
No tweakers.
Currently recalibrated to be running the profiler settings off first post.

In game:

FFB: 100 tried down to 50 still persists.
Tire force: 100
Deadzone removal: 0.01
Scoop Knee: 45 (Only just experimented with this)
Scoop Knee Reduction: 5

In car:
FFB: 30
Then four follwing are:
80
60
60
60

Everything else is at defaults, I can drive virtually everything e.g. 4th at brands challenge in clio, but superkart but wanna try remove the clipping from all though.

Edit: Running windows 8.1 pro aswell

Lars Rosenquist
14-05-2015, 21:42
FFB should always be kept at 100, if you lower then lower Tire Force. Did you measure that Deadzone Removal Range with Wheelcheck or just picked a value? Also, if you view the FFB meter in the telemetry screen, does it show clipping there as well (line going flat at top or bottom)?

CQR_CHRiS
14-05-2015, 21:45
It seems high always on meter ingame and hits top regular even with no feel. Ive just been playing with deadzone to be honest it was at 0.18 but lowered it right down to try get slack to see if helped prevent it. I'm hoping the karts is a bug and the rest is just set up issues or something conflicting.

Lars Rosenquist
15-05-2015, 07:28
It should be hitting the top on occasion, but if it's hitting it all the time then you could lower tire force (start with something like 50). Make sure DRR is at the number specified by Wheelcheck (see other thread for download link). If DRR is too low you'll be missing out on all the low-end FX, if it's too high you end up in oscillation hell. My buddy who is also on G25 had an FFB deadzone of 0.05 or something like that, but your mileage may vary.

Haven't tried karts extensively myself, perhaps some others could comment if they have similar issues.

punk rabbit
15-05-2015, 07:52
Thanks for the guide!
I have a pretty good driving experience but would like more feel, more response from the car. It's a little hard to drive exact lines and to hit the apex in corners.

Couple questions:

1) My Logitech Gaming Software 8.58.183 does not recognize my G25 wheel ("no devices detected"). Tried disabling USB legacy in BIOS, no effect. Tried reinstalling, no effect. Tried different USB port, no effect. Any suggestions? And also does it matter at all? Do I have positive ingame effects from configuring the logitech software?

2) Is there a way to default all settings ingame? Feel like I've been messing around a lot and am kind of lost. Or is there a chart with all default settings?

3) Are there plans from the developers to add easy-to-understand explanations for all the different settings ingame? Clearly those things are impossible to understand without any explanation.

Thanks for your help!

Project Cars has the potential to become the best race game ever.

Lars Rosenquist
15-05-2015, 07:56
I can answer the first two:

1. You need version 5.10 for the G25/G27: http://support.logitech.com/product/g25-racing-wheel#download
Strictly, it's not needed, but for the optimal experience, use the settings as described in this thread (and others).
2. There's a reset button on the screen that shows the wheel that will reset all the control settings

CQR_CHRiS
15-05-2015, 11:35
It should be hitting the top on occasion, but if it's hitting it all the time then you could lower tire force (start with something like 50). Make sure DRR is at the number specified by Wheelcheck (see other thread for download link). If DRR is too low you'll be missing out on all the low-end FX, if it's too high you end up in oscillation hell. My buddy who is also on G25 had an FFB deadzone of 0.05 or something like that, but your mileage may vary.

Haven't tried karts extensively myself, perhaps some others could comment if they have similar issues.

Cheers will try this later after work and feedback.

As for Karts it does seem like a some sort of bug that put's full vibration and FFB on instantly when you gain manual control, it tries to pull you left or right with full force not oscilation even with no input from pedals or wheels.

Shade3D
15-05-2015, 15:40
Hi,
I have a G27 and use Jack Spades Xml-Files, which are fine for me. But..., ingame, the G27 shows up with 'combined' pedals only, although I have unchecked this in the profiler. So, I took the G25 (to enable left-foot braking). Now I wonder: is there any way to enable G27 with uncombined pedals in the game (that hint with pedal pushing before entering calibration failed)? And, if I stay with G25, is it the same deadzone removal (0.18) or should I use different ones?

Roger Prynne
15-05-2015, 16:10
What do you see when you scroll through all the different controllers/wheel?

Shade3D
15-05-2015, 16:51
What do you see when you scroll through all the different controllers/wheel?

Hi Roger,
thx for the quick reply. I see G27 combined pedals and G25 uncombined.

Edit: ...and much more (Logitech, Fanatec, Microsoft etc...)

Roger Prynne
15-05-2015, 17:06
Hmmm strange... I'll look into it.

Edit: well just had a look.... first time for years as I don't need to calibrate my G25.

All the options are there for G25 and G27.. separate and combined for both, so this is a strange one.

Do you fully depress the pedals BEFORE you start the game as this is what I do and have no probs at all.

What USB port do you have the wheel in?

Shade3D
15-05-2015, 17:53
All the options are there for G25 and G27.. separate and combined for both, so this is a strange one.
Do you fully depress the pedals BEFORE you start the game as this is what I do and have no probs at all.
What USB port do you have the wheel in?
I see both options (comb/uncomb) for some of the other Logitech wheels (but G25 pro is the only one working for me).
I did, but maybe that's a dumb one: do I have to press and then depress or just verify they are depressed? When calibrating, the pedals say '0' before I kick them.
USB port: Most of the time I use USB 1 (USB 2.0), but it may happen that I use the 2nd. This never seemed to be a problem (like it was on XP, but this is Win 7).

Shade3D
15-05-2015, 17:58
May be I found something: there are 2 G25 Pro (uncomb pedals). The second one has a different picture (looks like the G27 I am sitting in front of). Maybe it's just mistranslated? I am using the german version of this. So, there is a chance, that the second one is G27, but the text translation is wrong?

rthery
15-05-2015, 18:26
Hello oo

Robes
16-05-2015, 10:21
I get a reported 36% dead zone on my g27, is that right??

Roger Prynne
16-05-2015, 11:38
Good god no, it should be something like 18%

rthery
16-05-2015, 11:49
Good god no, it should be something like 18%

I have 16% with Spring Force (PID) [Weel don't moves]
Ande -0,5% with Spring Force [well do moves ]

Matty1209
16-05-2015, 14:28
Hi, wondering if anyone could help. I set up my G27 following this post, When in race the wheel on screen locks for instance at 90 for go-karts, but I am still able to rotate my G27 past this point. Shouldn't the game be hard locking my wheel based on the cars steering lock? Wondering if anyone has had this problem.

Photonenbert
16-05-2015, 14:35
I get a reported 36% dead zone on my g27, is that right??

do you have overall FFB strength in game at 100?

then it should be around 18%

if you have FFB at a lower value then your dead zone can increase.

Photonenbert
16-05-2015, 14:37
Hi, wondering if anyone could help. I set up my G27 following this post, When in race the wheel on screen locks for instance at 90 for go-karts, but I am still able to rotate my G27 past this point. Shouldn't the game be hard locking my wheel based on the cars steering lock? Wondering if anyone has had this problem.

Have you tried with different cars?

The G25 and G27 dont lock for rotations less than 900 very well, it gets heavier but you can easily turn the wheel past it. I guess only direct drive or belt driven wheels really lock completely for smaller rotation values.

Matty1209
16-05-2015, 15:10
Have you tried with different cars?

The G25 and G27 dont lock for rotations less than 900 very well, it gets heavier but you can easily turn the wheel past it. I guess only direct drive or belt driven wheels really lock completely for smaller rotation values.

Yes I've tried a few, I thought it would just lock as if I had changed the rotation in the profiler as I do for F1 with 250 degrees? The problem is when I manage to rotate it past that point if I try to turn it back it jumps about as if trying to stop be going back into the range. I'll just have to deal with it if it isn't fixable I guess.

punk rabbit
16-05-2015, 18:39
Those Jack Spade tweak files are awesome! OMG I can suddenly feel what the car is doing. Guys, if you don't have those files, go get them!

JeyD02
19-05-2015, 13:18
For some reason my wheel it's not registering the 900 lock.

Roger Prynne
19-05-2015, 13:33
How much is it registering then?
What wheel are you using?

Please give us more information when you have a problem.
Thanks.

Lars Rosenquist
19-05-2015, 17:01
do you have overall FFB strength in game at 100?

then it should be around 18%

if you have FFB at a lower value then your dead zone can increase.Yup, on my G27 deadzone is 16% at 100% FFB and whopping 33% at 85% FFB. Another reason to keep FFB at 100%.

poirqc
19-05-2015, 23:40
When i do the minimum force spring force test, i get different FFBBaseOffset. If i'm in center possition, i get 0%. If i turn it progressively, on either side, up until it locks, i get up to 10% FFBBaseOffset.

How should i read into this data?

Thank you

hugopro4
20-05-2015, 11:41
where can i set the value for deadzone removal?
Edit: Ok found it anyway.

Photonenbert
20-05-2015, 13:26
When i do the minimum force spring force test, i get different FFBBaseOffset. If i'm in center possition, i get 0%. If i turn it progressively, on either side, up until it locks, i get up to 10% FFBBaseOffset.

How should i read into this data?

Thank you

I got values ranging from 3-7% as I did more than one test for BaseOffSet. You shouldnt turn the wheel while this test runs. the wheel gets ffb inputs during the test and moving the wheel will probably disturb the process.

if you got 0% then try again, maybe restart the wheel checker.

Ive done it like 5 times and settled for 4%.



Do you have a G25? You could also just put in 4% for deadzoneremoval range and see how it feels different than before and then maybe change it down or up a bit. 0% is probably not correct since all G25 are built the same way. Cant imagine that some wheels have less of an effect on deadzone then others.

Roger Prynne
20-05-2015, 13:33
G25 is normally around the 15% range when FFB is at 100% according to a lot of G25 users..... including myself.

t0daY
20-05-2015, 14:08
G25 is normally around the 15% range when FFB is at 100% according to a lot of G25 users..... including myself.

I have also a G25 and moving between 4-8% range when FFB is at 100%. Tried the wheelcheck several times and every time the same result :P

poirqc
20-05-2015, 15:34
I have a logitech momo racing wheel.

I didn't turn the wheel during the tests. I also did relaunch the app. I also remove the file generated from the tests. For now, i setled at 5% i think. I get those results with or without pCars running in the background.

Lars Rosenquist
20-05-2015, 15:37
I have also a G25 and moving between 4-8% range when FFB is at 100%. Tried the wheelcheck several times and every time the same result :P

Then that's what it is. :) There's some wiggle room of course, so even a few hundredths higher might still work (feel tighter/heavier). You'll also feel immediately if you take it too far (oscillation in the wheel because the motors are working against each other).

TheIronWolf
20-05-2015, 20:19
Hi,
First, thanks to all contributors to this guide - saves a lot of time to many people, my guess :)

I am wondering: what will happen to pCars FFB if FFB is set to 100% in game, but to other value (for example 110%) in LT Profiler? Does in game value override Profiler multiplier?

I am asking, because I'd like to keep settings in game, and control strength in Profiler, and use Wheel checker value reported in game matching Profiler strength. It sounds like offset value depends on strength multiplier, but question is which one - in game, or in Profiler?

Roger Prynne
20-05-2015, 20:36
^^^ If you have 'Allow Game to Adjust Settings' ticked, then it will only recognize 100% or less, if unticked you can go higher.
So the game will only allow 100% if AGTAS is ticked.

poirqc
21-05-2015, 01:20
Here's my samples for a logitech momo racing wheel. first number is the wheel angle, 2nd percent, 33rd wheel check results.

-120 100 8,5
-90 75 4
-45 37,5 4
-22.5 18,75 0
0 0 0
22.5 18,75 11,5
45 37,5 0
90 75 6
120 100 9,5
4,777

Looks like my offset is around 5%

Calvin
21-05-2015, 10:06
I have been lucky enough for a work collogue to pass his unused G25 onto me and i used it for the first time last night with these settings. Oh my gosh!! this completely changes the gaming experience. I absolutely loved the game before but now i love it even more!

Thanks for the guide!

Dirty D
21-05-2015, 18:15
After setting up profiler, and during in game wheel calibration. I still only see 180 degrees at full lock. Not the 900 degrees as shown in picture. I have the g27.

Baron_Greenback
21-05-2015, 18:49
Thanks for the guide. It really has made the difference between unplayable, and the best racing sim there is. I've had to put gloves on because my hands are sore, due to the awesomeness of 200 tyre force.

Rob20236
21-05-2015, 19:24
After setting up profiler, and during in game wheel calibration. I still only see 180 degrees at full lock. Not the 900 degrees as shown in picture. I have the g27.
You dont turn the wheel to full lock at the final part of calibration. You only turn it 90 left or right. Usually with fine adjustment to get ut to 900

DankKronix77
21-05-2015, 21:57
How do I achieve light steering feel when stationary. I am using Jacks 66% SopLateral V2 file. I have no problem with the way it feels at speed and through the corners. Yet still FFB is lacking. When stationary I shouldn't have to force my wheel into another position. The steering should be light like that of a car with power steering. It is as if the car doesn't and requires two hands to move.

FFB strength is at 100 as preferred by everyone and the Tire is also at 100. I used to have it at 120 then dropped down and it felt way better. Still I'm trying to some what mimic the feel of RRRE which has a great feel in my opinion. Controlled slides and can feel the suspension travel, understeer and the tires loading up when in cornering.

TheIronWolf
21-05-2015, 23:32
How do I achieve light steering feel when stationary. I am using Jacks 66% SopLateral V2 file. I have no problem with the way it feels at speed and through the corners. Yet still FFB is lacking. When stationary I shouldn't have to force my wheel into another position. The steering should be light like that of a car with power steering. It is as if the car doesn't and requires two hands to move.

FFB strength is at 100 as preferred by everyone and the Tire is also at 100. I used to have it at 120 then dropped down and it felt way better. Still I'm trying to some what mimic the feel of RRRE which has a great feel in my opinion. Controlled slides and can feel the suspension travel, understeer and the tires loading up when in cornering.
I am big fan of R3E but one of the biggest issues I have is it's FFB while car is standing. I have two cars IRL both with power steering, and changing wheel position while standing requires effort. In R3E that's missing and I'm pretty sure is incorrect.

Roger Prynne
22-05-2015, 00:06
Yeah wheel should be tight when at a standstill.... turn wheel in either direction and it should stay basically in the same position.

TheIronWolf
22-05-2015, 00:22
Yeah wheel should be tight when at a standstill.... turn wheel in either direction and it should stay basically in the same position.
Yep, that's one of things pCars done right IMHO.
A bit offtopic but thanks for sharing Physics wiki guide. Enlightening read.

cerbrus2
22-05-2015, 04:31
Having trouble with my 27. Did your guide in the OP and that improved things massively. But I'm still not getting much feedback from going over curbs etc. sometimes I get feedback, but most of the time I don't get any.

TheIronWolf
22-05-2015, 05:46
Regarding curb rumble, check this: http://en.pcars.shoutwiki.com/wiki/Physics . Don't know how much truth is in there (I question everything, although I respect the amount of work people put in and it shows), but according to this page, depends on curb you're going over.

If you're not using Jack Spade's tweak files, try them, they improve FFB. Although it still feels mushy and blurred to me compared to R3E/Race 07/GTR2 on my g27, but who knows, maybe that's what is really felt in a steering wheel of a car you're driving? Each sim is just a different definition of "real".

Westbeef
22-05-2015, 08:50
I'm very interested in the G27, anyone give me a quick review to help me choose? Sorry if this is the wrong place :)

Baron_Greenback
22-05-2015, 10:38
I'm very interested in the G27, anyone give me a quick review to help me choose? Sorry if this is the wrong place :)

Go for it, you'll be pleased you did. I got mine for 170 last year, as PC World had them on special offer, with a further percentage reduced in their store sale.
The wheel is well built, fairly sturdy and comfortable to use. Same goes for the pedals. The H shifter doesn't feel as tight and well constructed as the wheel and pedals, but to its credit, it's had some severe abuse and survived.
The desk clamps are sturdy enough to withstand the FFB, which is immense when you turn it up.

IMO the only negative is the button location on the wheel. I accidentally hit them while tuning the wheel. I dunno if that's a problem for others, or just my technique or large hands.

Photonenbert
22-05-2015, 12:53
Concerning Kerbs in Project Cars:


Some are Flat, some are not. It depends very much on the track and on the specific corner!

Also not every kerb is the same on one track. Some can be very heavy and others are almost painted on.

It also depends on the car! A road car will have less kerb feedback than a GT3 or LMP car. So go with those for testing.


If you want to test kerbs then I recommend testing at tracks with good kerbs.


So try LMP1/2 at Road America for example. Or Drive GT3 cars and Brands Hatch/Monza. You will definitely feel those kerbs.


Same goes with road surface feel. Tracks can be so smooth that you think there isnt any surface feedback. But it is like that in real life (try Brno, pretty smooth track)

If you drive the Nordschleife or Monza or Brands you will have good road surface feel.

xeek
22-05-2015, 15:55
hey,

when I use that ffb checker to get my deadzone range, I get results in between 15% and 16,5%

should I set it to 15, 16 or 17 ingame? (can't do 16,5)

thanks

Roger Prynne
22-05-2015, 16:05
0.15 or 0.16

zuotoski
22-05-2015, 18:31
Hi,

Thanks for this great tutorial, it really helps to improve the experience. I've done a video, based on your tutorial, left the link back in the video description as a way to give you the rights. It is in Brazilian Portuguese, but I am sure that it will help my fellows 'round here. :)

Here is the Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGwR2GdvDqc

Cheers.

Photonenbert
22-05-2015, 18:56
Hi,

Thanks for this great tutorial, it really helps to improve the experience. I've done a video, based on your tutorial, left the link back in the video description as a way to give you the rights. It is in Brazilian Portuguese, but I am sure that it will help my fellows 'round here. :)

Here is the Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGwR2GdvDqc

Cheers.

thats good. Thanks!

this way more people will get the chance to drive with a ForceFeedback they deserve, great job :)

qbs23
23-05-2015, 22:39
Hi. User with old Logi Driving Force Pro here.
Wheel works really bad in game. Tried OP guide and have a great deadzone, loose car on the straight, or cant turn - too big understeer.

When calibrating the wheel im having a problem with getting 100. 98 or 99 is max, to get to 100 i have to turn my wheel very hard. Then on next step, where im supposed to set 900 degress i start with like 17k degress:
So im asking another DFPro/DFGT users if they get such number too.

204194

Lars Rosenquist
24-05-2015, 07:29
In this particular screen you don't need to turn until it reads 90, but turn until you have the wheel at 90 degrees left or right (quarter turn) until the screen says 900.

Photonenbert
24-05-2015, 10:53
In this particular screen you don't need to turn until it reads 90, but turn until you have the wheel at 90 degrees left or right (quarter turn) until the screen says 900.

as Lars said. The 17k number appears with all wheels I think, its not a bug or something, just turn it to 900.

Also if you are using a Driving Force Pro you have different values of deadzone and can not use the ones form a G25 or G27 as they also differ from each other.

But you first have to calibrate the wheel correctly! without that done, you wont get any results that matter.

I think the DFP doesnt have very big values for deadzone removal range. after you calibrated check with the wheel checker app again and redo the steps I mentioned when using the wheel checker (this application works with any wheel).

Vectoryzed
24-05-2015, 13:40
Hello,
thanks for you guide! That is very very useful and feeling is very nice after this settings.

I have, anyway, two little problems in Project Cars:

1) The brake pedal is too hard and I have to do a lot of pressure to brake properly. Is there a way to make it softer? What should I set?
2) The steering wheel is too sturdy and make a lot of resistance. I want it more "comfortable", making it more fluid. How can I do?

I have a Logitech G27.

Thank you!

Photonenbert
24-05-2015, 14:57
Hello,
thanks for you guide! That is very very useful and feeling is very nice after this settings.

I have, anyway, two little problems in Project Cars:

1) The brake pedal is too hard and I have to do a lot of pressure to brake properly. Is there a way to make it softer? What should I set?
2) The steering wheel is too sturdy and make a lot of resistance. I want it more "comfortable", making it more fluid. How can I do?

I have a Logitech G27.

Thank you!

1) well your pedal cant get softer obviously as it is as it is. I think you want to adjust the "brake pressure" for each car in the car setups. They are mostly a bit to low and yes I also increase brake pressure very often to get a better feeling and quicker lap times.

2)thisis just a guess ! but it could be a bug Im am experiencing right now (I have not seen this before its very new for me so it probably doesnt apply to you). I need to restart the game and change my car so that I get the actual FFB I should be feeling. at first starts I just get a heavy force that is just wrong and 2x as heavy as it should be. that is a bug I expierence ! so I dont know if that is you problem, just a guess.

if it is generally to heavy, you can decrease Tire Force.

you do have FFB Profiler at 100//TF at 100 and FFB at 100 yes?

Vectoryzed
24-05-2015, 16:20
1) well your pedal cant get softer obviously as it is as it is. I think you want to adjust the "brake pressure" for each car in the car setups. They are mostly a bit to low and yes I also increase brake pressure very often to get a better feeling and quicker lap times.

2)thisis just a guess ! but it could be a bug Im am experiencing right now (I have not seen this before its very new for me so it probably doesnt apply to you). I need to restart the game and change my car so that I get the actual FFB I should be feeling. at first starts I just get a heavy force that is just wrong and 2x as heavy as it should be. that is a bug I expierence ! so I dont know if that is you problem, just a guess.

if it is generally to heavy, you can decrease Tire Force.

you do have FFB Profiler at 100//TF at 100 and FFB at 100 yes?

1) I obviously wanted to find a "software" solution to this matter. I already changed the "brake sensitivity" to 100 and now I have to do a fewer pressure to obtain the same amount of brake "force". I will also try to adjust the "brake pressure" for every car I drive before I get into the race. Thanks!
2) Yes, as you thought, I'm not experiencing a bug like that... yes, I have the FFB from Logitech Profiler set to 100, and in the game settings too. I will try to decrease the tire force and see if the steering will opposes less resistance.

Thank you very much.

I would like to take advantage of this post making you another question:

Which folder of "Jack Spade - FFB Tweaker Files" do you suggest to use?

DayGlow
24-05-2015, 18:07
One thing I've always been curious about is that for every game out there it is suggested that in the Wheel settings to turn spring and damper effect down to 0%.

I'm just wondering the reason behind this?

could_do_better
24-05-2015, 18:24
They are handled automatically in the physics calculations. e.g. Mz is spring force.
When wheels first came out the spring and damper settings were included so you could use your shiny new wheel on older games that were never designed to work with a wheel.
Anything released in the last 10 years drives the spring and damper forces directly and if they are added later by the wheel's interface you'll have a pretty terrible and probably clipped experience.

Photonenbert
24-05-2015, 23:35
1) I obviously wanted to find a "software" solution to this matter. I already changed the "brake sensitivity" to 100 and now I have to do a fewer pressure to obtain the same amount of brake "force". I will also try to adjust the "brake pressure" for every car I drive before I get into the race. Thanks!
2) Yes, as you thought, I'm not experiencing a bug like that... yes, I have the FFB from Logitech Profiler set to 100, and in the game settings too. I will try to decrease the tire force and see if the steering will opposes less resistance.

Thank you very much.

I would like to take advantage of this post making you another question:

Which folder of "Jack Spade - FFB Tweaker Files" do you suggest to use?

Best if you try to adjust brake pressure and leave sensitivity as it is before you try that out.

2) if you decrease FFB force (I guess also Tire Force, but you need to try that first) you need to adjust the "deadzone removal range" value again (check wheel checker again)

decreasing FFB force leads to bigger deadzone removal values.


Jack Spades:

That is totally up to your liking. I recommend to always use his newest version (there is V1.5 now) as it got everything set up for all the cars that are new to come to the game. (it also kind of confused my bug...still there but differently ... slightly confused myself :confused:)

I chose folder nr. 2.

Beyenne
26-05-2015, 00:23
Hi Photonenbert,

I followed all your tutorial till "Take that exact value and put it in Deadzone Removal Range. " where can i find that Deadzone Removal Range ? in the game ? in the iRacing Force Feedback Test ? in the logitech profiler ?
Me, my computer and my game are in french and I have pain to find where it can be .
Thanks for your help .

Roger Prynne
26-05-2015, 00:57
^^^ in the controller menu bottom right FFB settings.... don't think it's called that as the game is not running at the moment but you should see it.

BullWinkle
26-05-2015, 01:26
^^^ in the controller menu bottom right FFB settings.... don't think it's called that as the game is not running at the moment but you should see it.

In Game.
Controls> Control Scheme> "Calibrate Force Feedback" Tab.:)
;)

Beyenne
26-05-2015, 01:45
Thanks guys,
for french speakers it's:
Dans le jeu/options et aides/commandes/etalonner le force feedback/plage de suppression de zone morte

Roger Prynne
26-05-2015, 12:19
In Game.
Controls> Control Scheme> "Calibrate Force Feedback" Tab.:)
;)

Ah yeah... I was very tired when I wrote that...:moon:

chimpyman
28-05-2015, 06:08
hey fellow sim racers, im pretty new to sim racing and i got a new g27. im honestly a bit overwhelmed by this thread. i feel like there is a different guides every 5 pages. so can someone give me an idea which i should follow. there is the main one on the first page, couple pages later there is one with tweaks and then setting master to 50 in every car. then like page 16 some Brazilian guide?

which do i use! any help would be great.

Lars Rosenquist
28-05-2015, 09:07
which do i use! any help would be great.Start with the one in the first post. :)

FabianX2
29-05-2015, 07:18
Thanks for all of your good worke! Im using the settings from page one with a G27. Only exception: My tyre force value is 150.

Problems:
1. The feedback of the curbs is much to soft. On all traces even in a GT3. I read about that some pages back but can`t find it
any more. Is there a solution?
2. I`m missing the feeling for losing grip on the front tyres. Is there any way to get it like in AC?

Beside those two problems I was wondering if to try the tweaker files from Jack Spade. During the last pages it was mentioned
but there was no real response. So what do you think about that files?
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files

Ps: Sorry for the shity english spelling - no native!

Kobus Maree
29-05-2015, 13:37
i like the FFB files. Try them, and if you dont like them, just delete the folder, no permanent changes to your game...:yes:

Try option 4 first, it has a little of a boost for curbs and road surface bumps

SataraX
01-06-2015, 10:45
Hello all !! Just here to thanks you for the file and info's.
It's my first game with wheel (G27) and it's a great experience now :)

Photonenbert
01-06-2015, 13:31
Hello all !! Just here to thanks you for the file and info's.
It's my first game with wheel (G27) and it's a great experience now :)

Glad we can help :)

chilyb
05-06-2015, 23:06
So it seems there is no help for windows 8/8.1 users? I can not get the profiler to run on my 8.1 machine. So I am looking for help setting up an Xbox analogue 360 controller.
Cant seem to find anything on that subject either. Should I just wait a month for update 1.4?

zuotoski
06-06-2015, 12:32
So it seems there is no help for windows 8/8.1 users? I can not get the profiler to run on my 8.1 machine.

I presume you are using a Logitech G25/G27 wheel. Well, I am running it under a Windows 8.1 64bit and having no problems, both with the profiler and the game, as you can see in my video. You are may having some kind of driver mal function. Sometimes if you already installed the latest controller drivers, it is necessary to do a clean Windows install (format your computer) in order to arrange things up. Or, if you receive some kind of error message, contact the manufacturer (Logitech in this case) and/or Google it to find some clues.

AngryB
06-06-2015, 13:44
I had a similar problem with windows 8.1.

Then I stumbled across the problem. If you download the profiler from Logitech product page it will download the 32 Bit Version (even if you selected 64). This version will install with no issues, but it won't actually work.

Uninstall the one you have and try this: http://www.logitech.com/pub/techsupport/joystick/lgs510_x64.exe

It might be something different of course, but this worked for me.

AngryB
06-06-2015, 13:53
Just wanted to say thanks for the info OP (and others on this thread). I am relatively new to sim racing but after getting into DiRT Rally to the extent that I went and bought a G25 from Ebay, I thought I should get hold of something for track-based fun and Project Cars came highly recommended. After the experience I had with DiRT I knew that getting the wheel setup right would be essential to enjoying the experience and this thread looks to have given me all the information I need.

I still have 2GB Left on my download though so fingers crossed I get a chance to try it all out today (my internet connection is terrible)

Anyway, thanks for the setup guide. I will use it for good, not evil :)

Ecclesiaste
06-06-2015, 17:18
Thanks for this guide, very useful.

I just want to add a small note : you make us use the Logitech Profiler in the 1st step. All of this can be achieved in the Windows "Device and Printers" setup menu. I had to do it this way since the Logitech Profiler makes my G27 to decalibrate itself after 5-10 minutes ingame. (Yep it's weird but I don't have problems anymore since I stopped using the Logitech Profiler)

(Sorry if it has already being said.)

Roger Prynne
06-06-2015, 18:04
Also worth noting... before starting the game to fully press all the pedals.

chilyb
07-06-2015, 13:58
Thanks for taking the time to answer. Logitech is non responsive. People have been trying to get the driver/profiler questions answered on that forum for two years.
I have done plenty of searching for an answer. I thought the PCars forum might have had more experience in what it takes to run in WIN8.1

Because I have a digital copy, I'm not sure reinstall is the answer for me. Just depressing to not have proper controller options and to have a wheel that will not work.
Not really blaming Project Cars. New release is expected to have some issues. But the G27 compatibility problems and lack of Logitech support is a killer.

Again thanks to all who responded.

Roger Prynne
07-06-2015, 14:01
There's lots of people running G27/5 on Win 8.1 with no probs.

Lars Rosenquist
07-06-2015, 17:48
So it seems there is no help for windows 8/8.1 users? I can not get the profiler to run on my 8.1 machine.What's your issue with this? I'm running the LT Profiler on Windows 8.1 without any issues. Make sure you select the proper version (5.10.127 (http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/g27-racing-wheel#download)), as the newer ones don't support the G25/G27. Also make sure you select 32/64 bit according to your system.

ImpliedConsent
07-06-2015, 21:35
New here and ran into the whole G27/W8.1/LGS8.58.183 thing. Just want to help for those having a tough time finding 5.10. Just so you get the correct/direct link: Logitech Gaming Software v.5.10 for x32 bit OS (ftp://ftp.logitech.com/pub/techsupport/joystick/lgs510.exe) or Logitech Gaming Software v.5.10 for x64 bit OS (ftp://ftp.logitech.com/pub/techsupport/joystick/lgs510_x64.exe)

They're direct links to 5.10 and are executable. Pure Logitech, not some ad infected/can't figure out which button to push thing. XD

OzJustin
08-06-2015, 05:11
Thanks for the guide. Finally got the old 2010 Logitech Profiler working for my G25 and enabled 900 degrees rotation. Your setup guide combined with Jack Spade's FFB tweaker files have transformed this game. It is sooo much fun now! :D

AngryB
08-06-2015, 16:09
It looks to me like the Logitech website has some issues and their official forum is the opposite of helpful. I tried to download the correct profile for Win 8 64 and it gave me the 32 Bit version. I think it is a specific problem if you go through their product support page. I know a LOT of people have had this occur and it isn't really obvious that you have the wrong version because it still installs without any errors.

There are now lots of links on here for the right Profiler versions so fingers crossed we can see if it is indeed the problem. I'd be interested to see how many people find this is the fix they have been looking for. As chillyb says, there are posts on the logitech forums with people looking to an answer for this profiler issue which stretch back 2 years and haven't been resolved by their customer service team.

I just hope the same profiler versions work in Windows 10. If the reported performance gains are as described (20%-30%), I'd hate to find my wheel suddenly becomes obsolete :/

Roger Prynne
08-06-2015, 19:40
Have you tried not using the profiler at all? as it has nothing to do with the drivers as such, it's just there to adjust some settings to the drivers.
The OS should recognise the wheel as a 900 deg wheel and all the settings will be at default which is all you need.

ImpliedConsent
08-06-2015, 20:40
Somebody is listening. Yesterday, I clicked on Lars Rosenquist's links above and all versions were 8.x.x.x. Today, I'm being sent to 5.10.xxx. I think pCars has started a bit of a tidal-wave that Logitech is just now responding to. I love it! BTW, absolutely STUNNING over GT6 and my bet is that if/when GT7 is released on PS4, it will still pale in comparison to pCars on (decent) PC. Glad I didn't buy into getting another wheel/pedal combo. The G27 still rocks!

ImpliedConsent
08-06-2015, 20:48
Have you tried not using the profiler at all? as it has nothing to do with the drivers as such, it's just there to adjust some settings to the drivers. The OS should recognise the wheel as a 900 deg wheel and all the settings will be at default which is all you need.

I have a brand new Alien Alpha specifically for pCars. Yes, the OS picked up the G27. Yes, the OS configured/calibrated wheels and pedals. That was it. Getting into pCars and setup the configuration, still, kinda crappy feel, too smooth, zero FFB. Now, using Photonenbert's method with 5.10 drivers... now we're talking FFB, pedal feel/response...blah, blah. Unfriggin-believable.

titan253
08-06-2015, 23:14
After setting up profiler, and during in game wheel calibration. I still only see 180 degrees at full lock. Not the 900 degrees as shown in picture. I have the g27.

I'm in the same boat. I have the wheel locked clockwise (hands at 12' & 6') from the first step, and going only 90 deg counterclockwise (Hands and 9' & 3') only shows 180 degrees, I have to keep rotating the wheel until i get 900 degrees to display. Is this the correct method? If not, where am I going wrong?

Roger Prynne
09-06-2015, 09:38
^^^ I prefer to do it this way.

In the first step make sure your wheel is centered, then turn all the way to the left until stop, then all the way to the right until stop, then center your wheel and press next.
Now turn your wheel to 90 deg left or right until it reads 900 deg and hold it there then press Finish.

Edit: what wheel do you have, is it G25/7?

titan253
09-06-2015, 16:05
It's a G27. Thanks! I'll have to try it when I get home

Glenn_Quagmire
10-06-2015, 05:36
I have a MOMO FFB racing wheel. And this set up saved me a lot of headache i been going threw. Just have to follow directions here on the original post but for your wheel specifics. Thanks for this wonderful setup guide.

WTCCn00b
11-06-2015, 14:53
In the first step make sure your wheel is centered, then turn all the way to the left until stop, then all the way to the right until stop, then center your wheel and press next.
Now turn your wheel to 90 deg left or right until it reads 900 deg and then press Finish.


Doesn't make a damned bit of difference.

WTCCn00b
11-06-2015, 14:53
It's a G27. Thanks! I'll have to try it when I get home

Don't bother wasting your time.

Alex911
11-06-2015, 14:53
Some people said that their G27 just didnt feel as sharp as the G25 with the same settings. That is because the G27 has skew gears instead of straight gears and just works a tiny bit differently.

The G27 however has a FFBbaseOffset-value of whopping 18% or even more with the same settings applied. [/COLOR]

The ideal value would be 0% for any wheel.

To get your very own FFBbaseOffset-value if you want: download "wheel checker 1.72."


I did check my G27 FFBbaseOffset-value, and was very surprised to get a value of only 5.5%, which is supposed to be what a G25 would get?

So I subsenquently lowered the FFBbaseOffset-value in game from 0.18 to 0.06.

This coupled with Jack Spade FFB tweakers give me a pretty good FFB in general.

Thank you very much for your very useful and detailed setup guide. :D

Ian Bell
11-06-2015, 14:56
Don't bother wasting your time.

Another gem of a post.

Ian Bell
11-06-2015, 14:56
Doesn't make a damned bit of difference.

Insightful, I see...

Roger Prynne
11-06-2015, 15:01
Doesn't make a damned bit of difference.

Did you hold it at the 90 deg when reading 900 deg... I forgot to add this sorry.

I've amended my original post.

poirqc
11-06-2015, 17:06
I did check my G27 FFBbaseOffset-value, and was very surprised to get a value of only 5.5%, which is supposed to be what a G25 would get?

So I subsenquently lowered the FFBbaseOffset-value in game from 0.18 to 0.06.

This coupled with Jack Spade FFB tweakers give me a pretty good FFB in general.

Thank you very much for your very useful and detailed setup guide. :D



Try to do lots of samples, at various angles. You can then do an average of that. On my momo and my G27, i get values from .5% or 17.5%

Rifal
13-06-2015, 19:05
Followed the guide but getting little to no feedback from the wheel but the wheel remain incredibly though to turn. Worked fine before latest Project Cars update. Did something break?

Roger Prynne
13-06-2015, 19:33
Look at all the posts about 1.4 FFB problems and center spring.

Rifal
13-06-2015, 19:59
With my (extremely limited) knowledge of how these things work that entire thread might aswell have been written in greek for all I could understand of it.

KrrishTM
14-06-2015, 17:59
Hi I have DFGT After wheelcheck tool i get 0.00% offset value. I check again then get 4% check again get 8%. If I rotate wheel and put it to the center then check min force again I get 12% offset value. If i plugout and then plugin and check min force then I get 0.00% offset value. I also checked step2 linear force test. In this I get 10% offset value.( DeltaX) Which one is right min force setting for my wheel ?

Roger Prynne
14-06-2015, 18:10
An average of min/max, so in your case 6%

Or......


Dead Zone Removal settings for various wheels collected by Lars Rosenquist with the help of WMD members.

FFB at 100% - always any wheel!

Logitech G27: 0.18
Logitech Driving Force GT: 0.40 - 0.50
Logitech Driving Force Pro: 0.00-0.01

Fanatec CSR: 0.00
Fanatec CSW v2: 0.00
Fanatec 911 GT3 RS v1: 0.06
Fanatec GT2: 0.11
Fanatec Turbo S: 0.09 - 0.1

Thrustmaster T300RS: 0.02

SimXperience AccuForce: 0.00

FFB at 75%

Logitech G25: 0.14

FFB at 60%

Thrustmaster T500RS: 0.00

Lars Rosenquist
14-06-2015, 19:14
The DFGT keeps surprising me, some people just don't seem to get a consistent reading from it when it comes to FFB deadzone. Seen it from multiple people already. Very hard to come up with a good value for this one, since there's so much variance. I think it should be listed as 'undetermined' rather than a value.

Disposable_Hero
14-06-2015, 19:55
The first post is not up to date.
There was an update by Bruno over at WMD stating that the game engine now uses spring effect for standstill friction.
It was recommended to set it at 100% in profiler.
Wether this contributes to 1.4 FFB mess i don't know.

Roger Prynne
14-06-2015, 20:40
Yes the game engine does it just like... <value DisableSlowSpring="false" /> in the tweakers is all.

Roger Prynne
16-06-2015, 15:34
Strange... did another test with weelchecker and my deadzone now shows only 1.5% every time I check it, it used to be 14% before.

Del-Dredd
16-06-2015, 15:37
The first post is not up to date.
There was an update by Bruno over at WMD stating that the game engine now uses spring effect for standstill friction.
It was recommended to set it at 100% in profiler.
Wether this contributes to 1.4 FFB mess i don't know.

I ignored that recommendation as any Decent Sim has not used any spring setting above 0 for years, it also was only to give force at 0 speed which in a racing Sim is pointless in any case.

JeyD02
16-06-2015, 18:59
Any g27 users that notice the wheel is not turning full 900? Looks like there is some soft ffb lock at the end of rotation of about 10 degree on each side.

spides
16-06-2015, 22:53
i'm pretty sure it does that also in windows so it could be the wheel

Momonucleosis
17-06-2015, 01:24
So what is the latest setup one should be using? New G27 owner here. 22-page thread is a little daunting - i read somewhere in here this OP is now out of date due to a patch 1.4?
Should i be ignoring this and sticking to the FFB tweekers thread stickied? or using both?

poirqc
17-06-2015, 03:15
So what is the latest setup one should be using? New G27 owner here. 22-page thread is a little daunting - i read somewhere in here this OP is now out of date due to a patch 1.4?
Should i be ignoring this and sticking to the FFB tweekers thread stickied? or using both?

I posted this (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&p=996327&viewfull=1#post996327) in Jack's thread. It's working for me.

yusupov
17-06-2015, 03:19
g27 typically does not have true 900 degrees. calibrate the wheel & youll probably end up with 860-something. just leave it at that, its the true rotation of the wheel & will give you more accurate experience ingame.

Lars Rosenquist
17-06-2015, 05:52
Yup, so in the calibration screen, turn until the wheel is actually at 90 degrees, NOT until it says 900 on the screen.

Matt Awesome
17-06-2015, 10:40
g27 typically does not have true 900 degrees. calibrate the wheel & youll probably end up with 860-something. just leave it at that, its the true rotation of the wheel & will give you more accurate experience ingame.

40 degrees doesn't really make any difference.

JeyD02
17-06-2015, 14:56
Yup, so in the calibration screen, turn until the wheel is actually at 90 degrees, NOT until it says 900 on the screen.

Ya, i have found a that it's better by doing exactly that and not following the 900" like the guide Says.

yusupov
17-06-2015, 15:00
40 degrees doesn't really make any difference.

its not a big deal, the main point is that if your calibration detects less than 900 degrees, it doesnt mean its wrong.

JeyD02
17-06-2015, 15:05
So what is the latest setup one should be using? New G27 owner here. 22-page thread is a little daunting - i read somewhere in here this OP is now out of date due to a patch 1.4?
Should i be ignoring this and sticking to the FFB tweekers thread stickied? or using both?

Okay so this settings is the ultimate and it's working very nice.

Try these


OVERALL EFFECT: 100

Wheel rotation : 865
When calibrating the 90value should be 865.

In game FFB: 100

*calibrate FFB in game*

Tire force: 100 (or more if you want more strength)
Deadzone removal range: . 18
Deadzone fall off: .02

Relative gain 1.10

Soft clipping: half input 8.0"
Soft clipping full input : 8.0

You could trey any jack tweak after that.

You may also check the min force of the whole if it's too low or high you change the deadzone removal to what value the wheel checker use. But make sure it's correct. Most of time it's 18 with an overall effect of 100.

RythmicOne
18-06-2015, 00:18
if this thread is outdated for 1.04, it should say so in the original post so we know not to follow just post #1

Roger Prynne
18-06-2015, 00:29
Yeah the whole thing needs to be updated/edited really as some of the explanations are not quite right or things missing.

Photonenbert
18-06-2015, 10:21
Yeah the whole thing needs to be updated/edited really as some of the explanations are not quite right or things missing.

I havnt played in the last few weeks as Im working on my wheel modding and stuff. Therefore I wasnt able to test patch 1.4 yet.
I've heard there are some issues concerning clipping and stuff ? Since I cant test this myself, I probably wont be able to make an update for "workarounds" that "fix" the clipping stuff.

concerning the G27: is it just the amount of rotation (865) that is different with patch 1.4? and its definitely like that only with patch 1.4? (only got a g25)

if any of you could just help me out with the actual differences, I can see what should be updated in the post. thanks!

Photonenbert
18-06-2015, 10:28
- made a note in first post

- first update concerning less amount of rotation with the G27 during wheel calibration experienced with patch 1.4.

Roger Prynne
18-06-2015, 10:57
Can you edit this part mate and put Hold the Wheel at 90 and press Finish, as a lot of people seem to missing this part.


2nd:EDIT: With Patch 1.4 and a G27 you may get less steering rotation (~865) so you will need to turn your wheel to exactly 90 instead of reading out 900 so you are on the safe side. turn the wheel 90 clock or anticlockwise. "steering lock" should be at 900 (if its at 899 you will die. dont ask what will happen at 901) Click "finish".

poirqc
18-06-2015, 11:08
For me, with a G27, if i physically turn the wheel 90, i always got around 860 ingame, with or without 1.4. To get 900 ingame, i have to turn it around 80 physically.

It was always like that.

Photonenbert
18-06-2015, 11:19
Can you edit this part mate and put Hold the Wheel at 90 and press Finish, as a lot of people seem to missing this part.

done, thanks! :)

Art-J
19-06-2015, 21:38
When I was calibrating the wheel last weekend, I turned it 90 right, game reported ~860. Today I decided to repeat procedure, turning it 90 to the left - game reports 900. WTF :D.

JeyD02
19-06-2015, 21:47
When I was calibrating the wheel last weekend, I turned it 90 right, game reported ~860. Today I decided to repeat procedure, turning it 90 to the left - game reports 900. WTF :D.

Set the degree to 865 in profiler or wheels settings.

Then when you calibrate the wheel at 90 put it at 865."

Art-J
19-06-2015, 22:49
I bought PCars just a week ago, so I don't know how pre-1.4 FFB worked, but it seems that something must have changed dramatically, because page 1 settings don't work at all on my G25. Have been testing Jack Spade's files for a couple of days, but not entirely happy with results, today I decided to revert back to stock FFB and do some adjustments and tests according to first post of this thread.

No profiler installed. Windows settings: 900/100/0/0/0/, as suggested. Dead zone removal range measured and adjusted. Test car - GT-40 Mk IV. Test results:

a) In game settings: FF to 100, TyreF to 100, car setup master at default 26. Result - very strong centering effect, FFB clipping very fast in every corner, have to reduce TyreF to 30-ish to safely get out of clipping range, but then the dreaded white line pops up on the FFB graph and some silly (canned?) effects start appearing. Similar to Lotus 49, the first car I drove "out of the box" after installing the game (that's why I started looking for help here immediately).

b) Settings as above, but with Master cranked to ~50. Well, even stronger centering effect and more clipping. When coming to a stop, wheel rattles like hell, attempting to tear itself and my desk to pieces :D;

c) Just out of curiosity, turned TyreF to 200. I don't know how Photonenbert drove like that before v1.4, but now it causes insta-clip as soon as I move the wheel about 10-15 degrees off center, beyond this range wheel turns into concrete ;).

I guess I have to get back to Jack's files and see what I can get out of them.

Photonenbert
19-06-2015, 23:16
I bought PCars just a week ago, so I don't know how pre-1.4 FFB worked, but it seems that something must have changed dramatically, because page 1 settings don't work at all on my G25. Have been testing Jack Spade's files for a couple of days, but not entirely happy with results, today I decided to revert back to stock FFB and do some adjustments and tests according to first post of this thread.

No profiler installed. Windows settings: 900/100/0/0/0/, as suggested. Dead zone removal range measured and adjusted. Test car - GT-40 Mk IV. Test results:

a) In game settings: FF to 100, TyreF to 100, car setup master at default 26. Result - very strong centering effect, FFB clipping very fast in every corner, have to reduce TyreF to 30-ish to safely get out of clipping range, but then the dreaded white line pops up on the FFB graph and some silly (canned?) effects start appearing. Similar to Lotus 49, the first car I drove "out of the box" after installing the game (that's why I started looking for help here immediately).

b) Settings as above, but with Master cranked to ~50. Well, even stronger centering effect and more clipping. When coming to a stop, wheel rattles like hell, attempting to tear itself and my desk to pieces :D;

c) Just out of curiosity, turned TyreF to 200. I don't know how Photonenbert drove like that before v1.4, but now it causes insta-clip as soon as I move the wheel about 10-15 degrees off center, beyond this range wheel turns into concrete ;).

I guess I have to get back to Jack's files and see what I can get out of them.

you probably need to be a little bit patient and wait for the fix to come in the next patch soon to compare "before 1.4" with the current bugged FFB sadly.

Art-J
20-06-2015, 09:24
Yep, just browsing the forum and noticing more people mentioning some bug with spring-like FFB effects in current version. I'm going to do more testing with and without Jack's files in the meantime, trying to learn what sliders do, but I'll surely keep on checking Your thread in the future!

Photonenbert
20-06-2015, 11:21
Yep, just browsing the forum and noticing more people mentioning some bug with spring-like FFB effects in current version. I'm going to do more testing with and without Jack's files in the meantime, trying to learn what sliders do, but I'll surely keep on checking Your thread in the future!

I recommend you set up the wheel from the beginning again once the fix is uploaded.

so just go through the first post again then :)

Jack Spade
20-06-2015, 15:24
It might interest you Logi guys how "ermo" handled the patch 1.4 situation for his wheel, here:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?30820-Patch-1-4-FFB-reports&p=1003565&viewfull=1#post1003565

Gausor
20-06-2015, 17:52
I had to do a clean install with my system because of Hardware issues. Once i set up my system, first thing i wanted to see is how pCars feels now. First i just started the game an as i got on track, center spring was on full strength and my wheel was shaking and hud shows horrible clipping. Before everything was fine with Jack Spade Tweakers.

I tried to solve the problem with deleting the tweaker files in documents. No change. Then i deleted my profile for pcars in steam folder. Nothing. Tried both, deleting everything in documents and everything in profile folder for pcars. nothing. Made an uninstall of pcars and installed it on my new ssd. nothing. Again deleted profile and everything in documents. Nothing. Still feeling of driving a Truck without servo and with heavy earthquakes all the time. I even deleted every folder and resetted my wheel and everything after new installation of game. i changed USB Port. Did an uninstall of my wheel and reinstalled it. did several new profiles in logitech profiler. everytime with deleting important folders for pcars.

Using the same profile for Race Room everything is fine with FFB and center spring.

So, anyone got any idea what i can do? Is this the FFB bug deployed with 1.4 update? Of course i can wait for next patch, but i have to admit that this somewhat disappointing.

Sorry for my bad english but i'm tired, tired of configuring the sh** and doing no improvement and i'm german. :D

shaider_516
20-06-2015, 18:39
I always have this shaking wheel, like a wheel possessed especially before the race starts on the grid.. I have to press clutch and hold the wheel firmly because if i dont, i think my g27 wheel will break.

DJRichard
20-06-2015, 19:15
How do you reduce the amount of tpower pulling the wheel central. I have "Wheel centering" turned off and down to 0% in the Logitech profiler, but in game it is very strongly trying to straighten the car and it means I have no feel at all, its like it always want to go in a straight line.

Roger Prynne
20-06-2015, 19:23
^^^ Try lowering your Tire Force until it feels good to you.

fabi
20-06-2015, 19:50
Hello
great documentation!
May I ask a stupid question:
Should I use "Logitech G25 separate pedals" also for the G27?
I've found a G27, but not with separate pedals..
Thanks

Fabi

Wolkenwolf
20-06-2015, 19:55
Sorry for my bad english but i'm tired, tired of configuring the sh** and doing no improvement and i'm german. :D

I assume you have Logitech G2x wheel ? Could you please fill out your profile with specs in the signature ?

G25- nice FFB (missing some streetvibrations in the middle) with default values and only soft clipping (half/full) set to 5.0.
In german thats Weiche Beschneidung (Halbe Ausgabe ) und Weiche Beschneidung (Volle Ausgabe)

Roger Prynne
20-06-2015, 21:47
Hello
great documentation!
May I ask a stupid question:
Should I use "Logitech G25 separate pedals" also for the G27?
I've found a G27, but not with separate pedals..
Thanks

Fabi

It should be there, try and reset your controls in the menu screen maybe.

hyperseven
20-06-2015, 21:57
Why when exiting pit with G27 do you loose most of FFB and wheel rotation feels off.

Tried on both win8 and win10, dual boot PC, same occurs.

Setup as per first post.

(searched forum for word 'pit' no results found)

Art-J
21-06-2015, 00:10
I had to do a clean install with my system because of Hardware issues. Once i set up my system, first thing i wanted to see is how pCars feels now. First i just started the game an as i got on track, center spring was on full strength and my wheel was shaking and hud shows horrible clipping. Before everything was fine with Jack Spade Tweakers.

I tried to solve the problem with deleting the tweaker files in documents. No change. Then i deleted my profile for pcars in steam folder. Nothing. Tried both, deleting everything in documents and everything in profile folder for pcars. nothing. Made an uninstall of pcars and installed it on my new ssd. nothing. Again deleted profile and everything in documents. Nothing. Still feeling of driving a Truck without servo and with heavy earthquakes all the time. I even deleted every folder and resetted my wheel and everything after new installation of game. i changed USB Port. Did an uninstall of my wheel and reinstalled it. did several new profiles in logitech profiler. everytime with deleting important folders for pcars.

Using the same profile for Race Room everything is fine with FFB and center spring.

So, anyone got any idea what i can do? Is this the FFB bug deployed with 1.4 update? Of course i can wait for next patch, but i have to admit that this somewhat disappointing.

Sorry for my bad english but i'm tired, tired of configuring the sh** and doing no improvement and i'm german. :D

Apparently there is a bug in v1.4, which hits us, Logi users, the most. So no deleting/reinstalling is required, because it won't help anyway :D. Until fix comes with v1.5, we can only reduce tire force (even down to somewhere between 30 and 40) and reduce Dead Zone Removal Range (down to 0 or close). Coupled with Jack's files, this brings FFB back to somewhat usable state, although it will be a bit on the light side.

Wolkenwolf
21-06-2015, 09:50
Apparently there is a bug in v1.4, which hits us, Logi users, the most. So no deleting/reinstalling is required, because it won't help anyway :D. Until fix comes with v1.5, we can only reduce tire force (even down to somewhere between 30 and 40) and reduce Dead Zone Removal Range (down to 0 or close). Coupled with Jack's files, this brings FFB back to somewhat usable state, although it will be a bit on the light side.

Really ? G25 here. I'm up to 111% in Logitech Profiler (used this value since GTR 1).
100% TF, 100% ingame FFB. Deadzone removal 0,4. Soft clipping values up to 5.0, x/y 90% and i'm having a good (not perfect) FFB. Nice Grip, understeer, blocking brakes, all there.

Photonenbert
21-06-2015, 13:01
As Art-J said and as I already posted in the first post you guys need to be a little more patient with the upload of the new patch Im afraid.

Anything you could do is just a workaround and will probably not give you back the true experience that should be there at all times.

Apparently I'm one of the few lucky ones that don't experience any problem with FFB in patch 1.4.
Mind you, I did have problems before patch 1.4 with clipping in my first pcars sessions after system restarts. (I always had to reset the game at least once to get rid of it. was weird)


Ian Bell already mentioned that the fix is already done and it just needs to be uploaded.

Roger Prynne
21-06-2015, 18:45
Really ? G25 here. I'm up to 111% in Logitech Profiler (used this value since GTR 1).
100% TF, 100% ingame FFB. Deadzone removal 0,4. Soft clipping values up to 5.0, x/y 90% and i'm having a good (not perfect) FFB. Nice Grip, understeer, blocking brakes, all there.

If you have 'Allow Game to Adjust Settings' ticked then the game won't read more than 100% in the profiler.
This is what we discovered during testing and our FFB Dev told us that's correct.

Wolkenwolf
21-06-2015, 21:07
If you have 'Allow Game to Adjust Settings' ticked then the game won't read more than 100% in the profiler.
This is what we discovered during testing and our FFB Dev told us that's correct.

ok, forgot that. Game allow adjust is on and i'm already down to 100% :)
But that was not the point. I have a really good drivable FFB with mentioned softclipping values. No TF reducing, only clipping

Kunal_Racedriver
22-06-2015, 09:36
I just made the mistake of resetting my controls for keyboard assignments which added huge amount of grinding felling and clipping with a much stiffer wheel. I was running with excellent default smooth force feedback till yesterday even after 1.4 patch.

For those who are having no issues with FFb, avoid resetting controls or else you'll be waiting for 1.5 patch like me :sour:

could_do_better
22-06-2015, 09:36
Drop Tire force from 100 to 10.

Kunal_Racedriver
22-06-2015, 10:10
Initially I thought lowering tire force will lose detail but it does help. 10 is feeling too free to me. I have settled for TF of 30 with FFB 85. I don't know for sure but there seems to some good changes with the patch as well. I see some resistance on extreme turning with Formula A on a slow corner. Previously the wheel would go just go free.

Thanks a lot for the quick tip :calm:.