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luisi5678
09-05-2015, 07:02
If you have a Thrustmaster wheel you might have noticed that when driving in a straight line that there is little to no FFB (I understand that this is not a problem for everyone, but from posts all over the internet its happening to a large %). You can check FFB being sent to the wheel by going to:

game options/ game/ HUD / and clicking it over from: none/min/full/ to telemetry. Once you have telemetry running, a line graph appears on the upper left hand corner of your screen while driving that lets you know when ffb is being sent to the wheel. And can help with knowing when you are clipping.

I set ffb to 100 in both game and the t500 control panel (only for testing what each force ingame does). This is when i found out the issue, with all the forces maxed the graph from the telemetry lets me know that almost no forces (to be honest NO forces) where going to the wheel when driving in a straight line (wheel straight) but, ohh! Baby does this change when the wheel is turned at any angle but center. The line reading FFB started going all over the place (I felt the gear changes, bumps in the road, kurbs, loss of grip, etc) but only when the wheel was at an angle. I took the car off road and with the wheel straight felt nothing, 100 ffb set in game, Fy at 150 and nothing (crazy) and very little data was being sent to the wheel, but when the wheel is in any other position then straight the wheel is being sent all kinda info, i.e ffb. and it becomes the game I've been wanting to play for years.

Conclusion:

It seems that even with dead-zone set to zero in game their is still an artificial dead-zone with the wheel. I set dead-zone reduction to .10 (going to .11 takes away true center and the wheel goes crazy trying to find it, i.e. auto centers left then right over and over trying to find it)

This is not an issue that i can fix within settings, but something that i believe the devs need to look at

GT500
09-05-2015, 07:42
Make sure you have latest thrustmaster firmware installed and most recent TM software.
Make sure let game choose ffb settings via TM software.
I set ffb to 65 in TM software.
I leave everything default in game.
I calibrate wheel to exactly 900 degree rotation(its a 1080 wheel)
I set FFB to 100%.
I set damper reduction to 0%.

If a particular car is too light its easy to increase very slightly the master spindle in car setup menu. I don't do this very much tbh

You are correct keep an eye on wheel realtime data graph via HUD to ensure your setting are not making your wheel clip.

SorenA
09-05-2015, 09:43
I'm lost. Got the T500RS, and it is total havoc. The automatic calibration is sketchy, and after quitting a race the wheel turns over and gets stuck. When I calibrate it manually though the game it has no sesitivity and the force feedback is lacky. Can I wait for an update from the developers, or should I try to update the firmware? I have no clue, and I want to play this game so much - looks so right I just want to get it fixed! Platform : PS4

GT500
09-05-2015, 09:47
You are on PC yes? if so go here
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=1&fid=2&pid=316&cid=15 There is a driver there double check you are getting the correct driver!!!!!!!
also you can find the correct way to update the firmware
Read everything there please! It has a firmware installation .PDF right at the bottom of that page
iam offline all day now hope someone can help you out

SorenA
09-05-2015, 09:50
I'm on a PS4, sorry!

SorenA
09-05-2015, 09:55
Is there a way to install the firmware update directly on the ps4?

SorenA
09-05-2015, 10:10
I don't have a PC, so I wonder if I can update it manually at all?
However, thrustmaster seem to be aware of some trouble similar to what I experience, so I will wait for them to fix it I guess.
In the mean time: arrghhh wanna play :D

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?21993-T500RS-going-nuts-after-the-races/page2&highlight=firmware

pferreirag60
09-05-2015, 11:19
The last step of the calibration (wheel) its a bit misleading... in the last step you have to be sure that the wheel lock, match exactly your wheel rotation ex.: 900 if you have a g25 or g27 or 360 if you have old wheels. The 1080 wheels should stay at 900. After that, the wheel lock will be different for different cars.

Note: this will have effect in the way the FFB feels

notanexpert
09-05-2015, 15:34
I've heard multiple reports of the t500 having poor feel in pcars vs other wheels. I assume as time goes on there will be more information to present, but for now any of your t500 tips would be a great help to put this wheel at its full potential.

Steve Dean
09-05-2015, 18:05
Hi I was searching around and came across a video cgb1970 posted in the WMD forum by Inside Sim Racing, i'm aware non backers cant get to this forum so I will link it here I have used similar settings Darin did in the video and will use pics to show my settings, as my T500RS was very heavy and masking lots of effects with heavy clipping where now i can feel bumps correct oversteer and catch slides my tests was done on California Highway stage 3 similar to Darins reasons in the video.

I have only tested this on 1 car which was the Mercedes 190e I believe, but for me its a good base to work from.

ISR Video


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlOdRTB4njY

My FFB Settings
Thrustmaster CP
Firmware 43
Package 3.TTRS.2014

900
Overall Strength is 60%
Constant 100%
Periodic 100%
Spring 0%
Damper 0%
Center spring tests was done with it set to by the wheel with a 0% value, I guess by the game will have same effect but I have been messing around with settings for a few days now.

In Game settings

Main FFB
Controls > Configuration

200991

FFB Calibration

200992
200993

In car FFB Spindle Page

200994200995

In Car FFB SOP
To access SOP FFB click the arrow in top right of screen to change page or press R2 on wheel

200996

Steve Dean
09-05-2015, 18:06
My Quick Video
Catching some slides testing FFB settings Above


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xY2rUfWdVs

luisi5678
09-05-2015, 19:08
Thanks for the feedback, but I'm not a child. The firmware and drivers of my t500 are up-to date (LOL up their has been new drivers in over a year)

GT500
09-05-2015, 19:19
I took the car off road and with the wheel straight felt nothing, 100 ffb set in game, Fy at 150 and nothing (crazy) and very little data was being sent to the wheel, but when the wheel is in any other position then straight the wheel is being sent all kinda info, i.e ffb. and it becomes the game I've been wanting to play for years.

My car doesnt do anything when the wheel is straight in real life. I fail to understand what you expect from the simulation

When weight is applied to the car when turning i can feel wheels slipping and breaking traction when i drive on the limit

Ghost_83
09-05-2015, 19:48
Can anybody tell me how to correct install the t500rs on the PS4 :(? I mean by that with all the ffb and so on :culpability: . I m be trying since this morning and I just don't find the right configuration for it. Some times its to much and some times not enough . And the same with the accelerator and the brakes and clutch.

Thanks

Ghost_83
09-05-2015, 19:53
My Quick Video
Catching some slides testing FFB settings Above


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xY2rUfWdVs

Hi Steve

Does that configuration works on the ps4 to ?

Thanks

Aldo Zampatti
09-05-2015, 19:59
Threads merged for consistency/Better support

klhnikov
10-05-2015, 04:57
The T500rs feels OK with the dead zone reduction to 0.07 (ans the setting under it should be at 0 instead of 0.01)

I feel bumps in straight lines !

Other settings are ffb 100, damper 0, tire forces 100, relative gain 110 and 0.10 and 0.95 for settings under it

I use the ffb tweak folder found on this forum...

Great job !!! Thanks to all of you !

(I still wonder why it isn't more simple to set up the FFb but it can be adjusted....


EDIT ... only with my test car, other cars need other setting... im gonna kill myself...

turbohondaej1
10-05-2015, 05:29
My car doesnt do anything when the wheel is straight in real life. I fail to understand what you expect from the simulation

When weight is applied to the car when turning i can feel wheels slipping and breaking traction when i drive on the limit

Your an idiot or don't drive a car in real life. You do realize most cars in this game are race cars right? My civic has vibration at idle in the steering wheel. I'm sorry but something is definitely wrong with there ffb in game. when I mean wrong I mean 37 adjustable options with a terrible default setting wtf. The wmd people who play this game couldn't get a decent setup to start off with there was like 80000 members. It shouldn't take 5 hours to try to figure out what is going on with the settings. They should have explained all the settings better to.. Sorry for the rant just upset with time spent on nothing productive with this game so far.

Aldo Zampatti
10-05-2015, 07:57
Your an idiot or don't drive a car in real life. You do realize most cars in this game are race cars right? My civic has vibration at idle in the steering wheel. I'm sorry but something is definitely wrong with there ffb in game. when I mean wrong I mean 37 adjustable options with a terrible default setting wtf. The wmd people who play this game couldn't get a decent setup to start off with there was like 80000 members. It shouldn't take 5 hours to try to figure out what is going on with the settings. They should have explained all the settings better to.. Sorry for the rant just upset with time spent on nothing productive with this game so far.

Please stop directing to other members (ANY MEMBER) like that and I would write down an apology over PM. GT500 let me know if he does so.

He honestly expressed his opinion and you're a 100% entitled to disagree completely with him but with the proper language.

Skazz
10-05-2015, 08:09
What I am experiencing is that you get bumps when driving in a straight line on bumpy tracks (e.g. The laser scanned UK tracks, Nordschleife, Le Mans) but the wheel feels dead with not even a hint of vibration on straights on many other tracks.

In comparison the T300 somehow manages to feel less dead in the same situations and therefore gives a more believable experience.


That said, there are some interesting ideas in this thread, I look forward to testing them :)

Steve Dean
10-05-2015, 09:01
Hi Steve

Does that configuration works on the ps4 to ?

Thanks

yea all versions of the game have the same settings FFB wise, I found the settings i used above that video work well on race cars but with road cars I still not getting much feel through the wheel like bumps etc.
I believe the thrustmaster control panel that is used on PC / Laptop saves all settings to the flash memory on the wheel not 100% sure on that, but if it does and you have access to a Pc or laptop I would advise that people check what firmware their wheel is running and try the settings in my post.

turbohondaej1
10-05-2015, 15:34
Please stop directing to other members (ANY MEMBER) like that and I would write down an apology over PM. GT500 let me know if he does so.

He honestly expressed his opinion and you're a 100% entitled to disagree completely with him but with the proper language.

Sorry for being sarcastic. I did not mean to offend anyone here. It's just what I quoted seems like half the problem. I would rather problems get fixed then see people shrugging them off. Again sorry for any offense I caused.

GT500
10-05-2015, 15:41
Ok i did post my setup in a previous comment which i have been using since i got the t500, its what i like its simple and effective. I never had any effects while driving in a straight line really. Riding sawtooth kerbs give the wheel a violent rumble.

Qxs
10-05-2015, 16:31
Record your current settings. Then feel free to experiment with Fx, Fz, and SoP Differential. SoP scale to ~10-50
Leave Fy and SoP lateral at zero for this testing. Note that those are car settings, not global settings. Try one at a time and see what it does.
For a global setting, adjust the Deadzone Removal, it should affect straight line (centered wheel) ffb, try values from 0 to 0.2, you have too much if the wheel is oscillating or feels wonky.

klhnikov
11-05-2015, 11:01
I feel really frustrated by this game...
Im an Assetto Corsa player, and really dont understand the way that game is running FFB...
Why is it so complicated ? Why did you choose to make the straight lines feels boring that point ?

I have the game since 7may and don't have a minute of good feeling on this game... only setting, fell OK with a car, not with another... I can't spend my time tunning complicated settings (witch are not IN game ...)

Sincerely, FFB ruins the game experience... I'm really disapointed...

Aldo Zampatti
11-05-2015, 13:46
I feel really frustrated by this game...
Im an Assetto Corsa player, and really dont understand the way that game is running FFB...
Why is it so complicated ? Why did you choose to make the straight lines feels boring that point ?

I have the game since 7may and don't have a minute of good feeling on this game... only setting, fell OK with a car, not with another... I can't spend my time tunning complicated settings (witch are not IN game ...)

Sincerely, FFB ruins the game experience... I'm really disapointed...

As far as I remember from the development process, the idea actually was to give as much options as possible. The thing is that FFB is so subjective that it's impossible to find a default that will suit everyone.

Having say that, please take a moment to go through Jack's post here (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files) as he is some kind of a guru among us (he speak "ForceFedbanks" as a native language!) He's tweaker is ACE if you don't like defaults (I prefer his standard approach though) and that thread is FULL of useful FFB information.

Rusty Silvia
11-05-2015, 15:36
Thanks ...made a huge difference for me

klhnikov
11-05-2015, 18:41
Yes i tryed those tweaked files... Yes it change something, in Good all right...

But i dont feel my car drifting when i brake or accelerate ...

klhnikov
11-05-2015, 18:54
Problem is about default settings... To have a lot of settings is a Good thing... To feel nothing in a straight ligne by defaut is a problem...

klhnikov
13-05-2015, 12:32
OK, I found IT !!!

So, my settings have been found by myself (so they feel OK with me, maybe not for you, keep that i mind...) by turning down FFB in the game by default (75 if I remeber) and the FFB setting of the T500RS pannel to 100 (65 by def) : note that it is not a good setting to play but helped me (and maybe you) to find out where the problem was... Tire forces stay 100

With this light strengt (light but very responsive, exept in straight lines and, in the same time, braking), i have been able to tune the deadzone scale (wich fixed the major problem): I arrived to a deadzone removal scale of 0.10 and reduction of 0.2 (instead of 0.00 and 0.1 by default) : good feeling and no parasites moves if i stop my car... OK
(THIS SETTING IS FOR T500RS, cant try other controllers)

EDIT : change that settongs deadzone removal range 0.06 and falloff 0.0

OK, with this one (deadzone) done, i use the Jack's tweaked files (SOP and lateral one, wich i prefer) and his settings (as described in his topic, damping at 0, but dont touch FFB and 1.10 / 0.10 / 0.95 for the relatives gain in FFB calibrating) (I supose those last settings make the car behave more real when accelerate but not sure of it)

And finaly, I raised up the game FFB control up to between 90 and 100, depends of what you like (I prefer 100)

Then I started my referencial run (RUF GTR8 on Nordshleife), and found back my (maybe exagerated but powerfully ) "Assetto Corsa like" FFB wich I love ...

Thanks for all help I had here... !!!

EDIT : I used a 1080 setting in the Thrustmaster pannel and well calibrate it at 1080 (90) (I guess it is the same than a resolution on a screen, more precision on high level)

RobertLidstroem
13-05-2015, 15:23
Will definatly try these settings!

Steve Dean
13-05-2015, 16:44
OK, I found IT !!!

So, my settings have been found by myself (so they feel OK with me, maybe not for you, keep that i mind...) by turning down FFB in the game by default (75 if I remeber) and the FFB setting of the T500RS pannel to 100 (65 by def) : note that it is not a good setting to play but helped me (and maybe you) to find out where the problem was...

With this light strengt (light but very responsive, exept in straight lines and, in the same time, braking), i have been able to tune the deadzone scale (wich fixed the major problem): I arrived to a deadzone removal scale of 0.10 and reduction of 0.2 (instead of 0.00 and 0.1 by default) : good feeling and no parasites moves if i stop my car... OK
(THIS SETTING IS FOR T500RS, cant try other controllers)

OK, with this one (deadzone) done, i use the Jack's tweaked files (SOP and lateral one, wich i prefer) and his settings (as described in his topic, damping at 0, but dont touch FFB and 1.10 / 0.10 / 0.95 for the relatives gain in FFB calibrating) (I supose those last settings make the car behave more real when accelerate but not sure of it)

And finaly, I raised up the game FFB control up to between 90 and 100, depends of what you like (I prefer 100)

Then I started my referencial run (RUF GTR8 on Nordshleife), and found back my (maybe exagerated but powerfully ) "Assetto Corsa like" FFB wich I love ...

Thanks for all help I had here... !!!

I also use Jacks files same ones you do may try your deadzone removal settings and see how that feels on the straights as don't really get much ffb feel on the straights but when cornering his files make a big change .
Im sure i use 70 in thrustmaster control panel in game 100 ffb and 100 TF

klhnikov
13-05-2015, 19:20
try the exact oposite to test your deadzone reloval, 100 in TH control pannel, 75 in game for FFB, you will find back your feelings in straigts and braking... FFB in game will be rased after the deadzone...

So now I have a second issue, a big one... KART !
I love it, so fun, but i can't stop the Kart without having big shakes from left to rigt on top of the weel... Feel good driving, just can't stop the kart and do other stuff, that may not be a problem, but it is also impossible to take a normal start at races... Anybody fixed it ?

Steve Dean
14-05-2015, 16:23
try the exact oposite to test your deadzone reloval, 100 in TH control pannel, 75 in game for FFB, you will find back your feelings in straigts and braking... FFB in game will be rased after the deadzone...

So now I have a second issue, a big one... KART !
I love it, so fun, but i can't stop the Kart without having big shakes from left to rigt on top of the weel... Feel good driving, just can't stop the kart and do other stuff, that may not be a problem, but it is also impossible to take a normal start at races... Anybody fixed it ?

I believe its caused by the increase on deadzone removal setting I had same thing on the 250cc kart after trying your deadzone settings, lot of osicillation at stand still and slow speed could just try reducing it slightly when using the karts.

klhnikov
16-05-2015, 15:13
I believe its caused by the increase on deadzone removal setting I had same thing on the 250cc kart after trying your deadzone settings, lot of osicillation at stand still and slow speed could just try reducing it slightly when using the karts.
Yup, i tried many things...
I reduced the setting under deadzone removal (another deadzone stuff wich increase it...) to 0.00 which is the key to feel road in straight lines ... (Dead zone to 0.11)
But, with this setting, most of cars will shake at center if I stop...
I tried to tweak the slow spring (in jacks files) to false, but it is worse ( wheel go strongly on the right at pits... )

I tried to raise it a few (under 0.01 from 0 to approx 0.005)
But lost feeling in straight lines again... Less loss but loss for sure...

So I desactiveted the slow spring on true, and go back to 0 on deadzone removal clamp... I prefer rumbling ...

But I'm now sure of something : FFB is great ! When good setting is applyed...

BMW435
23-05-2015, 03:53
I feel really frustrated by this game...
Im an Assetto Corsa player, and really dont understand the way that game is running FFB...
Why is it so complicated ? Why did you choose to make the straight lines feels boring that point ?

I have the game since 7may and don't have a minute of good feeling on this game... only setting, fell OK with a car, not with another... I can't spend my time tunning complicated settings (witch are not IN game ...)

Sincerely, FFB ruins the game experience... I'm really disapointed...


I agree. This is crazy we should spend more time racing instead of playing with the STUPID settings. There are too much settings to enjoy the game. Don't get me wrong I love the game, the graphics it's amazing. But I have been spending 90% if my time on STUPID settings instead of playing and enjoying the game. Also, we can't name the saving (i.e Saving1, saving2 etc...) in case we messed up we can reload the savings. Plus many settings are depending of other settings which makes it impossible to make wheel the free right. I feel like I driving on ice or slippery mud. Also there absolutely no rubber burning sounds is that only on PS4. I don't have a copy of PC so I can't tell. Does anybody notice that?
I'm a GT6 fan and I think Project cars should learning a lot two from GT6.

AJ McDaddy
23-05-2015, 10:54
I'm going to preface my comments with I'm a sim-racing fan-boy not and Assetto Corsa fan-boy.

I have the TX with GTE and F1 rim and use Fanatec CSR Elite pedals. I was a console racer (GT and Forza) than moved over to PC racing as I just wasn't digging the feel of my wheel on console. I then started playing Assetto Corsa and BOOM! It felt like I had a brand new wheel - the feel of the road and curbs, brake effects and general FFB was great. For a while I've been eagerly waiting for the PCARS release (didn't have any previous versions) and was so excited on the day it got delivered. Since it's arrived on 7th May I've not completed a single race as I have spent every bit of time in the game trying to get my wheel set up. It just shouldn't be this hard and I end up giving up and loading up Assetto Corsa instead.

I'm not trying to get it to emulate Assetto Corsa (or maybe I am?), but even the feel of my wheel in Forza 5 on Xbox One is better and much easier to 'dial-in'. I've tried Jack's files, but still struggling. Considering the partnership / sponsorship of Thrustmaster / SMS, I just don't get why this is the case.

OK, so mini rant over (well it was hardly a rant LOL). Does anyone have any recommendations on a setting to enable more road / rumble effects?

klhnikov
23-05-2015, 20:30
Just to precise it, I edites my precedent post with my actual deadzone setting (im on t500rs)
I think deadzone is the key... still don't know why they adedd one cause my whell has NO deadzone (0.5%)...

But adding some wil make the game feel a bit more like AC, more like what we all want !

Steve Dean
25-05-2015, 14:03
I'm going to preface my comments with I'm a sim-racing fan-boy not and Assetto Corsa fan-boy.

I have the TX with GTE and F1 rim and use Fanatec CSR Elite pedals. I was a console racer (GT and Forza) than moved over to PC racing as I just wasn't digging the feel of my wheel on console. I then started playing Assetto Corsa and BOOM! It felt like I had a brand new wheel - the feel of the road and curbs, brake effects and general FFB was great. For a while I've been eagerly waiting for the PCARS release (didn't have any previous versions) and was so excited on the day it got delivered. Since it's arrived on 7th May I've not completed a single race as I have spent every bit of time in the game trying to get my wheel set up. It just shouldn't be this hard and I end up giving up and loading up Assetto Corsa instead.

I'm not trying to get it to emulate Assetto Corsa (or maybe I am?), but even the feel of my wheel in Forza 5 on Xbox One is better and much easier to 'dial-in'. I've tried Jack's files, but still struggling. Considering the partnership / sponsorship of Thrustmaster / SMS, I just don't get why this is the case.

OK, so mini rant over (well it was hardly a rant LOL). Does anyone have any recommendations on a setting to enable more road / rumble effects?
regarding your last sentence which i have put in bold which version of jacks files have you used as there is a newish V1.5 which adds 2 new sets folder 4 being more rumble / kerbs which is what I am using.
worth giving a go if haven't all ready also try on the laser scanned tracks believe they brands snetterton cant remember the others off hand but sure all the british tracks except silverstone.

For anyone wanting to try jacks files which I recommend using the thread is here
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files

pferreirag60
25-05-2015, 23:05
I really dont know the problems with other wheels(lack of FFB or some forces) But with the wheels Ive : Logitech G25 G27 and Momo Racing, I did just this:

Force Feedback: 100% Tire Force: Default value, but by car, in the setup menu I change Master scale from 26 to 70 or 80, if i feel the wheel to strong. With this settings I feel everything, even the vibration from the motor when accelerating in neutral, standstill.

Note: Check the box "Allow Game to change Settings" in Logitech control panel, In PCARS in the wheel calibration menu, be sure to turn the wheel all left and then all right, in the steering lock step, rotate the wheel until you read the max degrees of your wheel (900, 270, etc...)

Note1: In my opinion, the g25 is the superior wheel, compared with g27, so i always use the g25

jason
26-05-2015, 02:24
Settings for my T500RS with Kurb Effects



Okay, have spent the last 2 hours with AC, PC and my T500 at Spa in a BMW Z4 gt3

I don't have it perfect yet but I have made a ton of progress on getting that AC feel.

Many people may not care for the feel but to me it's a great leap in as far as the immersion goes (I like a heavier wheel and feedback, even if it isn't totally accurate)

Okay, to start my T500 is set at 60% ffb.

In PCars control panel

Tire force 100
Per Wheel Movement 0.0
Per Wheel Movement squared 0.0
Wheel Position Smoothing 0.04
Deadzone removal range .05
Deadzone removal falloff .01
Linkage Scale 0.0
Linkage Stiffness 1.0
Linkage Damping 1.0
Relative Adjust Gain .98
Relative adjust Bleed .10
Relative adj clamp .96
Scoop Knee .70
Scoop Reduction .25
Soft Clipping (Half Input) 0.0
Soft Clipping (Full Output) 0.0

Under Vehicle Tuning Setup > Force Feedback > Spindle

Master Scale 10 (this is low and I still get a ton of FFB)
Fx Scale 54
Fy Scale 54
Fz Scale 60
Mz Scale 90.01 (this is almost like spring center, it will determine how much resistance you get turning the front wheels)

All Smoothing set at 0.0

Arm Angle 1200

Under Vehicle Tuning Setup > Force Feedback > Body & SOP

Body Scale 0.01
Body Longitudinal Scale 0.01
Body Stiffness 100
Body Damping 100

Below is the biggy if you like kurb effects and feeling the bumps in the road

SoP Scale 100
SoP Lateral Scale 70
SoP Differential Scale 100
SoP Damping 0.0

Disclaimer: Try these at your own risk, what I like in FFB may be nothing like what you like. I will say though if you thought the FFB before was not aggressive enough or heavy enough, you might like these settings. I also only tried these with one car at one track. These settings most likely will need even more tweaking with different vehicles, but that is part of the appeal of this title, it allows you to do just that.

Even if they are not to your liking they might get you pointed in a direction that does work for you, this is a game that is going to make you crawl under the hood so to speak if you want to get the most out of it.

I did not create these settings but I will say they are brilliant .

jay080
04-06-2015, 08:32
While the settings were correct before the game's release , all effects were embellished making it very difficult to find a good setting. For my part I mainly play rfactor 2 which is my reference in terms of driving feel and physic . I find assetto corsa is not up to either because too much unwanted vibrations . Ideally qualities rfactor with graphics project cars . Anyway since the release and the latest update of project cars I do not play it and I hoped Verily a patch has come to the height of the game.

cabelo3d
06-10-2015, 17:41
Does anybody has a good latest setup? It has been impossible to play the game atm.
Thanks

sebplane
19-10-2015, 12:13
I am also looking on the right way to setup correctly this T500. Just bought it one week ago.
I think I will try this method :
First Step: Baseline controler FFB values - Google sheet & FCM. Universal (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35147-Baseline-controler-FFB-values-Google-sheet-amp-FCM-Universal)
Second Step: Test different Jack Spade settings Jack Spade - FFB Tweaker Files (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files)
And then test drive on a Ruf RGT8 GT3 in Oulton Park as Jack Spade said in the zip.

If anyone already tried this with the T500, a feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Already found this value in the Baseline controler FFB valuesthread: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219979&d=1444311163

but I don't know if it is for every T500.

Edit: Just found this post: Post #442 (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35147-Baseline-controler-FFB-values-Google-sheet-amp-FCM-Universal&p=1105384&viewfull=1#post1105384)
Anyway I will use this program and compare the values of Nick Claydon with mine.

sebplane
19-10-2015, 16:22
Here is what i get:

220516

After some laps in the Ruf RGT8 GT3 in Oulton Park, I feel it is much better with more feedback from the road.

poirqc
19-10-2015, 16:22
I suggest you try to move DRF up just a small bit, it will remove a notch you may have early turn in.

I included some small description of what the different ingame settings do, if you want to fine tune from there.

sebplane
19-10-2015, 17:22
Thanks, I did some tune and set the DRR to 0,18.
Now red and yellow curbs are matching but now my wheel is shaking on straight line. Is it what's called "clipping"?
And how to slove this?

poirqc
19-10-2015, 17:48
Thanks, I did some tune and set the DRR to 0,18.
Now red and yellow curbs are matching but now my wheel is shaking on straight line. Is it what's called "clipping"?
And how to slove this?

You need to put some DRF. with DRR at 0,18, a DRF betweem 0,02 and 0,03 should give you some good results.

sebplane
19-10-2015, 18:01
Thank you it's better but still there.
When my hands are on the wheel there is still some very soft oscillations. But if i remove my hands and let the wheel free on a straight line, the oscillations are back and strong.
Anything else I can do?

delahosh
19-10-2015, 18:06
Thank you it's better but still there.
When my hands are on the wheel there is still some very soft oscillations. But if i remove my hands and let the wheel free on a straight line, the oscillations are back and strong.
Anything else I can do?

Please post your complete FFB Setting..

sebplane
19-10-2015, 18:28
I will put the value in the same order as in the FFB screen because it is a translation from French (could be a wrong translation):
Tire Force = 60
Per Wheel Movement = 0,00
Per Wheel Movement Squared = 0,00
Wheel Position Smoothing = 0,00
DRR = 0,18
DRF = 0,03
Linkage Scale = 0,00
Linkage Stiffness = 1,00
Linkage Damping = 1,00
Relative Adjust Gain = 1,00
Relative Adjust Bleed = 1,00
Relative Adjust Clamp = 1,00
Scoop Knee = 0,69
Scoop Reduction = 0,05
Soft Clipping (Half Input) = 0,00
Soft Clipping (Full Output) = 0,00
Menu Spring Strength = 0,4
Low Spring Speed Coefficient = 0,92
Low Speed Spring Saturation = 1
Steering Gain = 1

In game FFB is set to 100% and in the Thrustmaster panel forces are set to 100/100/100/100/0
Hope these values reveal something.
Thanks for your help!

delahosh
19-10-2015, 19:03
Try DRR 0.03 and DRF 0.01

and maybe you should set FFB in TM-Profiler to 60..

sebplane
19-10-2015, 19:20
Ok DRR = 0,03 removed the clipping but now both curb look like this:
220520

Not far from what was set by default

delahosh
19-10-2015, 19:26
You should test it ingame, wheelcheck is not the "one and only"

if clipping is removed everything is fine ;-)

find your sweetspot DRR/DRF to get more Details without negativ Effects

poirqc
19-10-2015, 19:59
Thank you it's better but still there.
When my hands are on the wheel there is still some very soft oscillations. But if i remove my hands and let the wheel free on a straight line, the oscillations are back and strong.
Anything else I can do?

I saw you removed Wheel Position Smooting.

You need at least a very small bit.

Try to increment it by 0,01 until there's no oscillation.

sebplane
20-10-2015, 16:09
Incrementing the Wheel Position Smoothing more than 0,01 had no effect.
Finally I had to decrease the DRR to 0,06.

Thanks for your time, now let's drive!

sebplane
22-10-2015, 05:56
I recalibrate the wheel and now I am able to increase the DRR to 0.10. Not perfect but much better.

poirqc
22-10-2015, 11:08
I recalibrate the wheel and now I am able to increase the DRR to 0.10. Not perfect but much better.

Be sure to use at least a small amount of DRF with this 0,1 DRR.

Good luck.

sebplane
22-10-2015, 12:27
DRF is set around 0.03.

delahosh
13-03-2016, 07:35
REVIVAL

What settings are you going?

Please make a Post or set a Link like this http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse/ps4-5/6

FFB = 40
WPS: 0, 03
DRF: 0, 004
NO SCOOPS
Controller Modus 3 - Advanced ON

and Adjustments for JS-Classic: Fx Smooth : 10,0 / Mz Smooth : 0,0
Simple but useful ;-)

Cheers

MajorJ
18-07-2016, 10:55
Since the last post, there are no new settings recommended?

I try to find good settings for my new T500 RS.
My TM Controler Settings are 60/100/100/0/0 and Set by Game.

In the FFB Calibration Menu in Project Cars are 4 new options at the end:

Menu Spring Strength = 0,4
Low Spring Speed Coefficient = 0,92
Low Speed Spring Saturation = 1
Steering Gain = 200

Are any suggestions for that? The Steering Gain has a major influence for example

poirqc
18-07-2016, 18:20
Since the last post, there are no new settings recommended?

I try to find good settings for my new T500 RS.
My TM Controler Settings are 60/100/100/0/0 and Set by Game.

In the FFB Calibration Menu in Project Cars are 4 new options at the end:

Menu Spring Strength = 0,4
Low Spring Speed Coefficient = 0,92
Low Speed Spring Saturation = 1
Steering Gain = 200

Are any suggestions for that? The Steering Gain has a major influence for example

Since you're playing on a PC, i would suggest to set Sterring Gain to 1 and Force Feedback to 100%, in game. Run like that for couple hours/days to understand how the FFB works. When you're done with this, you could explore the various guides that are sticked on the forum.

If you're using Jack Spade's files, i would follow his guide. If you don't use them, i would have of look at the wheel FFB guide in my signature.

If you want a really quick primer: Be sure you don't get Clipping(you can see that in the telemetry hud), use just enough Deadzone Removal Range to have enough(But not too much) feel when turning the wheel and you're set.

MaximusN
19-02-2017, 16:06
This post is partly to save my setup(incase I loose stuff:) ) and partly to help others.

I have a T500rs(of course ;) ) and use pthreads 4

I tweaked Jack Spades files(folder 10 as a base) to exclude SOP(multiplied by 0), multiplied SpindleFyScale by .75, SpindleFzScale by 2, and SpindleFxLoPass by 0. The parameters where not randomly picked but I read about them here from people in the hunt for understeer feeling, which as Jack said isn't going to help, but it did liven up the axle. Having looked at the resulting xml's they're actually not far from Jack's 3 folder(66%), but it's still a quite tangible difference(values still differ some bit and no SOP).

I did this by using the following self made python script so I can easily adjust given parameters by a set multiplier on ALL 129 tweaker files at once. I included the FFB files I made with aformentioned multipliers(some might see that SpindleMzScale is in the list, but because it's multiplied by 1 it's effectively let alone).

For me what this does is give me a very alive feeling from the front axle without really needing the SOP for feeling. This SOP drowns out stuff that makes me feel connected and looses PCars' alive feeling IMHO. Now I'm not saying this is a true FFB felling or anything, but IMHO the floaty feeling people have is not what I get from this.

Now I'm not here to start an argument about good or bad(as I have noticed in discussions FFB is something very personal), but ofcourse feedback is appreciated. I used the M3 GT at Bannoch for testing, so as a start (if anyone wants to test this) it would be best if people at least test that combo too.

For those who have Python installed(or just interested) here is the code:

import os

nameList = ["SoPScale","SpindleFyScale","SpindleMzScale","SpindleFzScale","SpindleFxLoPass"]
valueMultiplyList = [0,0.75,1,2.0,0]

dirIn = "C:/Users/MaximusN/Documents/Project CARS/Jack Spade/10. Low Vertical Load - Classic/FFB low vertical"
dirOut = "C:/Users/MaximusN/Documents/Project CARS/FFB"

fileList = os.listdir(dirIn)

for file in fileList:
if ".xml" in file:
try:
currentFFBfilein = open(dirIn+"/"+file, 'r')
currentFFBfileout = open(dirOut+"/"+file, 'w')
for line in currentFFBfilein:
idx = 0
found = False
for name in nameList:
if name in line:
s1 = line
s2 = name+"=\""

s3 = s1[s1.index(s2) + len(s2):][:4]
try:
s3 = str(float(s3)*valueMultiplyList[idx])
except:
s3 = str(float(s3[:3])*valueMultiplyList[idx])

currentFFBfileout.write("\t<value "+name+"=\""+s3+"\" />\t\n")
found = True
idx = idx + 1

if not found:
currentFFBfileout.write(line)

finally:
currentFFBfilein.close()
currentFFBfileout.close()




TM Panel settings:


Rotation: 1080
Strength: 80
Constant:100
Periodic:100
Spring:100
Damping:100
Centring: By game(recommended)



My ingame settings are:

FFB panel

TF:75
PWM:0
PWMS:0
WPS:0
DRR:0.11
DRF:0.013
LSc:00
LSt:1
LSd:0.92
RaG:0
RaB:0
RaC:0
SK:0.76
SR:0.39
ScH:0.0
ScF:0.0
MSS:0.2
LSSC:1
LSSS:0.5
SG:1.30

Controls->Configuration

FFB:100
Input mode 2
Advanced On
Softsteering damping off
Visual filtering on
Opposite lock off

konnos
19-02-2017, 17:30
I think it is a definite improvement for my T300. I did use my RAGains but it doesn't matter much. Most of the cars I drove had a more tame ffb while turning, there was a sense of lighter wheel, so you got the feeling it was a little more progressive. I drove the M3 Gt as you said, also the Z4, 1M, 2 lmps, focus, FA and caterham. It was better for sure.

It has been on my mind for a long time, that Jack's settings, even though he says the forces are balanced and should work for all wheel, are not suited for everyone's wheel. It is the forces he can feel with his wheel and it is only natural that the Fanatec V2 has the ability to give all the forces needed, but not on our lower quality wheel. I started using folder10 lately because I saw that the ffb was cleaner, it seems like Fz was taking up a lot of space in the forces. And now with these changes it is even better, it was the best in the Focus imo. The formula A was not good, it seems like it needs more Fy and it was better with Jack's settings. I understand you only divided Jack's numbers so it's natural some cars don't feel ok. I was also expecting the lmps to be off but it was rather nice.

I am keeping those files my man, many thanks. Others with T300 and T500 should take note of these and try them out.

MaximusN
19-02-2017, 21:00
I think it is a definite improvement for my T300. I did use my RAGains but it doesn't matter much. Most of the cars I drove had a more tame ffb while turning, there was a sense of lighter wheel, so you got the feeling it was a little more progressive. I drove the M3 Gt as you said, also the Z4, 1M, 2 lmps, focus, FA and caterham. It was better for sure.

It has been on my mind for a long time, that Jack's settings, even though he says the forces are balanced and should work for all wheel, are not suited for everyone's wheel. It is the forces he can feel with his wheel and it is only natural that the Fanatec V2 has the ability to give all the forces needed, but not on our lower quality wheel. I started using folder10 lately because I saw that the ffb was cleaner, it seems like Fz was taking up a lot of space in the forces. And now with these changes it is even better, it was the best in the Focus imo. The formula A was not good, it seems like it needs more Fy and it was better with Jack's settings. I understand you only divided Jack's numbers so it's natural some cars don't feel ok. I was also expecting the lmps to be off but it was rather nice.

I am keeping those files my man, many thanks. Others with T300 and T500 should take note of these and try them out.

Thanks for the input! I tried the FA and I agree it did miss centering force. I adjusted the values to 0.85 for Fy and 1.5 for Mz. I added the whole folder again. And as you said not only are the values multiplied by set values, the SOP value is not the same in every car, so just taking it out might throw of the careful balance Jack made.

And again, by no means do I feel this is better than any other config. It's just that I was so lost for a good setup after it once felt darn good in beta that I was left frustrated. And what I think it boils down to me is that SOP drowns out some good stuff(that I like) the FFB has. And all praise goes to Jack of course.

4dri3l
25-02-2017, 12:32
This post is partly to save my setup(incase I loose stuff:) ) and partly to help others.

I have a T500rs(of course ;) ) and use pthreads 4

I tweaked Jack Spades files(folder 10 as a base) to exclude SOP(multiplied by 0), multiplied SpindleFyScale by .75, SpindleFzScale by 2, and SpindleFxLoPass by 0. The parameters where not randomly picked but I read about them here from people in the hunt for understeer feeling, which as Jack said isn't going to help, but it did liven up the axle. Having looked at the resulting xml's they're actually not far from Jack's 3 folder(66%), but it's still a quite tangible difference(values still differ some bit and no SOP).

I did this by using the following self made python script so I can easily adjust given parameters by a set multiplier on ALL 129 tweaker files at once. I included the FFB files I made with aformentioned multipliers(some might see that SpindleMzScale is in the list, but because it's multiplied by 1 it's effectively let alone).

For me what this does is give me a very alive feeling from the front axle without really needing the SOP for feeling. This SOP drowns out stuff that makes me feel connected and looses PCars' alive feeling IMHO. Now I'm not saying this is a true FFB felling or anything, but IMHO the floaty feeling people have is not what I get from this.

Now I'm not here to start an argument about good or bad(as I have noticed in discussions FFB is something very personal), but ofcourse feedback is appreciated. I used the M3 GT at Bannoch for testing, so as a start (if anyone wants to test this) it would be best if people at least test that combo too.



I've been using your files for a couple days on my g27 with some minor adjustments on global settings, and must say that I loved your approach on the ffb... very good indeed..