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NinjaTrek2891
09-05-2015, 19:04
Hello,

I have some serious problems with the Ford Escort. The first 2 laps when the tires are still cold it's like driving on ice. Since the tires are cold, i'm ok with that. I'll go a bit easy.

But when all tires are green and around 90c my car becomes even slower. Oversteering and understeering in all corners. I've tried multiple setups and nothing seems to help me out.

Does anyone has a idea how to solve this ?

Pirategenius
09-05-2015, 19:10
You need to power slide the escort. It wants and needs to be sideways in the corners. That's the problem with a live axel

newyorkcitybob
10-05-2015, 21:01
I still cannot manage to control this car. Anyone know of a good tune?

Patrick Kulinski
10-05-2015, 22:02
What I encounter often ist that oversteer mainly happens during braking. In this case, moving the break bias forward (in the game that's increaing the bias) can help here. Otherwise, if you feel that one end of the car isn't stable enough make that car's end (springs + dampers) softer compared to the other one.

Ofce
12-05-2015, 15:23
Brake bias and little bit of differential lock changes helped me to make the car more predictable.

MikeyTT
14-05-2015, 09:40
Ok, so going from memory, as it's been a few weeks since I drove this and that was around Oulton I would do this:

- Reduce Acc Lock to around 5-10
- Lower the rear spring rate a bit
- Remove the rear ARB
- Brake balance about 60% to the front
- Lower rear ride height than the front
- Maybe stiffen the front springs, but not too much
- Weight balance to the rear (if you can, can't recall)
- Front toe I can't recall, but a touch of toe in will help the turn
- IIRC the dampers I never got around to playing with, but they felt ok out of the box

Depending on how you drive, you can notch the brake balance to the rear, that will get the turn in faster, with a slightly loose rear end. Watch when you change down, as that will unsettle the car if you're hitting the rev limiter. Heel and toe if you can to match the RPM as you change down. With the weight on the front it should turn better, so maybe a little trail braking, will help the turn in too.

It drives a lot like the slower caterham, so you just have to manhandle it a bit and you'll be rewarded with a quick time.

afroguy
18-05-2015, 10:25
For me 90% of all handling issues can be fixed by tweaking the diff and tire pressures (PC with wheel) so I use:

Fuel : 7liters both quali and race.

Front tire pressure absolute minimum on both sides as a going in point as they tires arenít worked hard and the car is very light (tweak to taste if one/both tires start overheating after 3-4 hotlaps)
Rear tire pressure .3bar more than fronts. Again raise pressure slightly if tires start overheating after 3-4 hotlaps. Try and maintain a stable temperature on all four corners to help balance.

Diff accel 60% (helps corner exit)
Diff Decell 10-12% (helps turn in)
Preload is untouched.

Dropping the front fast bump on both sides to about 20-25% helps turn in response and makes the car more "pointy" but like MikeyTT said it's behaves like a slow Caterham so sometimes you need to "back it in" to sharp corners and hairpins (Snett 200/300 turn two) and for most other corners it's all corner approach and technique. The car really punishes poor driving technique with either snap oversteer or HUGE understeer, BUT it really help teach you how to drive quickly and smoothly which is essential in other higher power formulas.

Personally I get most if not all my braking done before the corner and maybe use some train braking helps the front turn in on tighter and off camber turns then balance the throttle through the corner to keep the car stable and balanced, then I gradually feed in the throttle on exit minimising oversteer.

Hope this helps can post entire tune is required. :D

Deadzone
18-05-2015, 12:11
^ some Good tips.

Afroguy, I'm not able to adjust the fast front bump setting like you mention. They are locked for me. Have you confused this with slow bump?

menaceuk
18-05-2015, 15:00
This is still a work a progress. I am still playing with Tire Pressures and I still have some exit oversteer now and again on some slower corners, but nothing unmanageable

Tire Pressure Front - 1.63bar
Tire Pressure Rear - 1.55bar
Brake Pressure - 95%
Brake Balance - 55%
Traction Control Slip - 13%
Steering Ratio - 10.9:1
Caster Right - 4.5 degrees
Caster Left - 4.5 degrees
Camber Front - 1.9 degrees
Camber Rear - 0.0 degrees
Toe-in Front - -0.6 degrees
Ride Height Front - 75mm
Ride Height Rear - 100mm
Spring Rate Front - 65N/mm
Spring Rate Rear - 56N/mm
Sway Bar Front - 21N/mm
Sway Bar Rear - 10N/mm
Bump Stp Front - 30mm
Bump Stop Rear - 30mm
Slow Bump Front - 3250N/mm
Slow Bump Rear - 3250N/mm
Slow Rebound Front - 7900N/mm
Slow Rebound Rear - 7900N/mm
Limited Acceleration Lock - 70%
Limited Deceleration Lock - 52%
Preload - 15N-m
Gearing - Final Drive = 3.76

Tested it on Road America Full, Watkins Glen GP, Oulton Park International, Imola, & Brands Hatch GP. It might not set any lap records but I found it competitive in its class.

ford_racer
19-05-2015, 01:13
For me 90% of all handling issues can be fixed by tweaking the diff and tire pressures (PC with wheel) so I use:

Fuel : 7liters both quali and race.

Front tire pressure absolute minimum on both sides as a going in point as they tires aren’t worked hard and the car is very light (tweak to taste if one/both tires start overheating after 3-4 hotlaps)
Rear tire pressure .3bar more than fronts. Again raise pressure slightly if tires start overheating after 3-4 hotlaps. Try and maintain a stable temperature on all four corners to help balance.

Diff accel 60% (helps corner exit)
Diff Decell 10-12% (helps turn in)
Preload is untouched.

Dropping the front fast bump on both sides to about 20-25% helps turn in response and makes the car more "pointy" but like MikeyTT said it's behaves like a slow Caterham so sometimes you need to "back it in" to sharp corners and hairpins (Snett 200/300 turn two) and for most other corners it's all corner approach and technique. The car really punishes poor driving technique with either snap oversteer or HUGE understeer, BUT it really help teach you how to drive quickly and smoothly which is essential in other higher power formulas.

Personally I get most if not all my braking done before the corner and maybe use some train braking helps the front turn in on tighter and off camber turns then balance the throttle through the corner to keep the car stable and balanced, then I gradually feed in the throttle on exit minimising oversteer.

Hope this helps can post entire tune is required. :D

I second all of this. The diff and tire temps affect the cars DRASTICALLY in this game.

Neil Hopwood
19-05-2015, 01:14
I second all of this. The diff and tire temps affect the cars DRASTICALLY in this game.

Pretty sure you'll find that's true in real life too.

There's a reason F1 cars have all the Diff settings dials on the steering wheel.

ford_racer
19-05-2015, 01:16
Pretty sure you'll find that's true in real life too.

There's a reason F1 cars have all the Diff settings dials on the steering wheel.

No argument here, but I was more comparing this game to others I have played more than I was to real life. I can't say I've done too much diff adjust IRL.

scotteffone
23-05-2015, 05:19
Biggest issue I've had with this car is that it keeps pulling to the right. It's not my controller and I have no issues with other cars but in career its a real hassle esp going into heavy braking. It's an unstable enough car as it is without that extra headache!

AdM1
24-05-2015, 13:47
Yeah this car is one of the worst I've played with out the box and I've not done much tuning yet but will be sure to make some diff changes next. Main problem I have is it just doesn't turn unless I slow it right now. Power sliding with the controller is near impossible.

Gordon
25-05-2015, 00:31
I'm a slow reactions person (fumble fingers catching a gently thrown ball) and find the Escort with default setup difficult. However, with very few adjustments it becomes a pleasure for me to drive -

1. Reduce preload and deceleration lock to 0

2. Reduce acceleration lock by (not to) 10%

3. Reduce rear springs by 2 clicks

Hope this is helpful to some. :)

MULTIVITZ
25-05-2015, 08:02
I put a setup summary screen shot of mine up here. You'll find it if you search. Its quite drivable, but I find the rear tramps badly over bumpy surfaces. A problem the car shouldn't have if it had a 5 link kit fitted!!!! Or my rear spring choice and damper arrangement are not optimum. Try it, don't let pride stop you using others tunes. I had the thing handling like the original road car, I know that, because I've driven ones similar in real life and they aren't too pretty when pushed!
Driving sideways on slicks is a fool game but I think the car has its own period competition tyres fitted, probably better than the Colway m&s' s lol

fragged
26-05-2015, 04:17
I put a setup summary screen shot of mine up here. You'll find it if you search.

Can be found here
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?25376-Please-post-your-car-tuning-setups-for-us-newbies-here&p=935688#post935688

madmax2069
26-05-2015, 04:48
Biggest issue I've had with this car is that it keeps pulling to the right. It's not my controller and I have no issues with other cars but in career its a real hassle esp going into heavy braking. It's an unstable enough car as it is without that extra headache!

Im glad im not the only one seeing that behavior in the escort, I thought I was going nuts or something.

Anach
25-07-2015, 08:37
Having trouble setting this one up myself, which is frustrating, because I own one, so thanks for the tips. I was hoping for more camber adjustment, because most the modified race Mk1s I've seen have adjustable control arms added for more camber, and I actually did this to my road car to get around -2.1 degrees, which made a hell of a difference. One of the most important things I found out tweaking my real life mk1, is that the front has to be higher than the rear, and have plenty of travel, otherwise you have a lot of under-steer; this is unfortunate, because for a nice looking road car, having the front standing up doesn't look pretty, but it sure does make a difference to cornering.

Olijke Poffer
25-07-2015, 08:48
This is still a work a progress. I am still playing with Tire Pressures and I still have some exit oversteer now and again on some slower corners, but nothing unmanageable

Tire Pressure Front - 1.63bar
Tire Pressure Rear - 1.55bar
Brake Pressure - 95%
Brake Balance - 55%
Traction Control Slip - 13%
Steering Ratio - 10.9:1
Caster Right - 4.5 degrees
Caster Left - 4.5 degrees
Camber Front - 1.9 degrees
Camber Rear - 0.0 degrees
Toe-in Front - -0.6 degrees
Ride Height Front - 75mm
Ride Height Rear - 100mm
Spring Rate Front - 65N/mm
Spring Rate Rear - 56N/mm
Sway Bar Front - 21N/mm
Sway Bar Rear - 10N/mm
Bump Stp Front - 30mm
Bump Stop Rear - 30mm
Slow Bump Front - 3250N/mm
Slow Bump Rear - 3250N/mm
Slow Rebound Front - 7900N/mm
Slow Rebound Rear - 7900N/mm
Limited Acceleration Lock - 70%
Limited Deceleration Lock - 52%
Preload - 15N-m
Gearing - Final Drive = 3.76

Tested it on Road America Full, Watkins Glen GP, Oulton Park International, Imola, & Brands Hatch GP. It might not set any lap records but I found it competitive in its class.

Thanks.. You should put this in the P.CARS Setup Database as well.

jamelee1
23-11-2015, 11:54
You just have to get those power slides going :)

Tony_snark
15-03-2016, 17:04
Hey y'all. I know this is an old thread, but I finally broke down and registered for the forum just to ask about this friggin' Ford. I didn't pick up the game until January after I finally got a wheel and rig, but by I guess early Feb. in career I was in the series with the mk1's and the big AMG Mercs. AI slider was set to 83. First race is at Oulton Int'l, and with some slight tuning I take the pole and 1st by 2/10 sec. I go away for a few weeks to finish Fallout 4 and when I come back for the 2nd round at Brands Hatch I am dirt. Freakin'. Slow. Fight for DAYS with the tuning and finally say "screw it, I'll take my lumps and get 'em next round." Next round is Silverstone int'l, and I'm fighting tooth and nail to turn a 1:21:4 which is a full 6 secs off the leader and dead last by 1.5 secs. AI drivers are braking for corners around 75 feet after me, which seems downright impossible. Did they release an update or something in the few weeks I was away that made made the AI superhuman for this series? I'm banging my head against the wall with this thing, so if anybody could maybe take your tune for a run around Silverstone Int'l and let me know what I'm doing drastically wrong I'd appreciate the crap out of it. Thanks.

Krus Control
16-03-2016, 00:07
I'll post a setup for you in 2 hours or so when I get home. You should be able to drop about a second with the one I have just from drivability. The default in this car is actually pretty decent. Also keep in mind that the 300sel is faster on every track, especially ones with longer straights.

Tony_snark
16-03-2016, 01:04
Thanks Krus. Any help would be appreciated. And yeah, when I first tuned it I didn't have to change much, I think I loosened the tail up a bit, and with the AI in the low 80's I was +/- .2 secs off the leader in that first round at Oulton. Then the second round came and I was dead last by a huge margin. To my chagrin,I went ahead and cranked the AI down to 55 for round three and took 7th. I know the Merc is faster on the straights, but there were mk1's turning laps 5+ secs faster at that setting at Silverstone. My next race was one in the Caterham Classic series, and I cranked the AI back up in the 80's and easily took 1st. Just saying all that to say I'm not the noobiest noob at driving. If you could let me know what kind of lap times you're getting with your tune at that Silverstone circuit I'd be much obliged. That'd let me know if the problem is me or if there's just a really high level of difficulty inherent in this particular series. Oh, I noticed one of the suggested tunes above had a TCS setting. If it helps, I have all assists off.

Krus Control
16-03-2016, 01:54
I just did a few laps there and ran a 1:18.999. That number sounds made up so I took a screenshot because I actually did get this time. Anyway, here's the setup.

229921

229922

Differential at 2% accel lock and 0% decel lock
Preload at 10
Brake bias at 55%

Tony_snark
16-03-2016, 04:06
Thanks a ton. I'll try this out tomorrow and see how it goes

Tony_snark
16-03-2016, 23:22
That worked really well, man, thanks. I made it a little more tail-happy but it knocked almost a full 2 secs off my previous times. Thanks again.

KulaGGin
19-08-2016, 20:33
I just did a few laps there and ran a 1:18.999. That number sounds made up so I took a screenshot because I actually did get this time. Anyway, here's the setup.

229921

229922

Differential at 2% accel lock and 0% decel lock
Preload at 10
Brake bias at 55%
Could you please post actual tuning setup screenshots and not just summary? Summary is missing a lot important settings like brake balance and brake pressure. And I don't know what brake bias means in this case.
Here's what summary is missing atm: brake pressure, brake balance, steering ratio, final drive and all gearing, fuel load and brake mapping.
Here's my settings atm:
http://i.imgur.com/5OgodrU.png
http://i.imgur.com/voDF9re.png
http://i.imgur.com/zKY2sUK.png
http://i.imgur.com/VimSE1k.png
http://i.imgur.com/1TsIZUy.png
http://i.imgur.com/sDVCSpV.png
http://i.imgur.com/p8HHgYy.png
http://i.imgur.com/qb44DB0.png
http://i.imgur.com/MWWFPGa.png

What can I do to make it even better?

I don't have time to tune every car for 5 hours just to be able to finish race without crashing 10 times on first loop. And I don't have time to read about every single little settings of the car for 150 hours just to be able to start setting up my car. And I'm not that bad. I play with all assistants turned off and on some cars which are set up in a good way by default I can beat AI on 80-100 difficulty with all assistants turned off. I mean, for any good drivers it might look 2ez but I just like to drive from time to time after work for 1 hour, and I don't even consider myself as a driver/pilot...

Is there some thread on this forum with proper setting files for all cars made by some ESL pro which spent 1000+ hours in this game tuning up cars or something? So I can just paste settings files and forget about setting up cars? It's almost impossible to play offline mode with default car settings, I have to set up every car manually.

I'm using MOMO racing.

And there should even be some car tuning setting files which should make it even easier to share and apply car settings.

beetes_juice
19-08-2016, 20:50
To the above post, a majority of those missing settings are personal preferences (brake bias/pressure) or different between tracks (gears, brake map, etc).

While you wait for a response and since your short on time to tune other cars and what not, take a look at the setup database: Pcars Setup DB (http://projectcarssetups.eu/#/bycar)

Great tool for when your short on time or have no idea what your doing ;). I'd take a look at a few Escort tunes and try out their brake bias/pressure, gears, etc to fill in some holes.

Jussi Viljami Karjalainen
19-08-2016, 21:00
Summary is missing a lot important settings like brake balance and brake pressure. And I don't know what brake bias means in this case.Brake balance and brake bias are the same thing. Brake pressure tends to depend on your personal preferences as well as the pedal set you use, so you should adjust it yourself such that you can brake effectively without locking up too easily.

KulaGGin
19-08-2016, 21:25
While you wait for a response and since your short on time to tune other cars and what not, take a look at the setup database: Pcars Setup DB (http://projectcarssetups.eu/#/bycar)

Ok, thanks. But is there some pack of car settings by some users who played this game for 1000+ hours and shared their setting files?

For example, I've downloaded Jack Spade's FFB settings (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&highlight=force+feedback) and forgot about it long time ago.

Roger Prynne
20-08-2016, 10:23
^ Look at the links in Jussi's sig or mine

KulaGGin
20-08-2016, 18:20
^ Look at the links in Jussi's sig or mine
I did. I might be wrong but I can't find anything like Jack Spade's files to just CTRL-C/CTRL-V it. You still have to manually tune your can in-game using http://projectcarssetups.eu/. I can't find any kind of button on projectcarssetups to just save setups with highest rating for every car, so I can just go to my pCars folder, paste it and forget about setting up cars because setups will be already completed by best pros in the world.

At the moment I have to manually setup every car, one after another. That's what I do... But it would be awesome to be able just to download all best setups and paste it in my in-game folder...

Jussi Viljami Karjalainen
20-08-2016, 18:23
The setups are saved in your pCARS profile file, everything is in that single file (so it doesn't hurt to back it up once in a while), there's no way to load external setups.

John Hargreaves
20-08-2016, 21:49
I did. I might be wrong but I can't find anything like Jack Spade's files to just CTRL-C/CTRL-V it. You still have to manually tune your can in-game using http://projectcarssetups.eu/. I can't find any kind of button on projectcarssetups to just save setups with highest rating for every car, so I can just go to my pCars folder, paste it and forget about setting up cars because setups will be already completed by best pros in the world.

At the moment I have to manually setup every car, one after another. That's what I do... But it would be awesome to be able just to download all best setups and paste it in my in-game folder...

I guess that's just the nature of the game, and lots of folks like to tinker around with setups to a point where that's a big part of the gameplay. Most times (due to a combination of limited time, skill and patience) I drive with defaults and try to learn the best way to get the most out of each car, but sometimes it's quite fun to think about how you could improve a car and try to apply that to the setup. I can see that it's a good idea to have that kind of functionality though.

Zpectre87
22-09-2016, 14:00
This is an old thread but still.

These old cars like Escort, etc., they use bias-belt tires. I remember having trouble with the Bimmer CSL in GTL and the gurus told me that because of the bias-belt tires it required to be driven hard with sliding, etc. I did that and my times improved significantly.

These kinds of tires like to operate hot and to do that you have to drive aggressively. Of course you can't overdo it or you'll lose them, but you'll need to make your car a bit loose to drive fast. I had trouble in Silverstone, then I lowered both diff settings and softened the springs and sway bars, getting the car to where I liked it and beating the other Escorts (my goal since the Mercs are too fast).

Depending on the track I don't think it's possible to beat the Mercs because they're too fast on the straights. Those tuned Bimmers are also a pain to deal with.

I'm actually surprised that the Mustangs are so slow! But then I don't drive at 100% AI.

-Jimbo-
28-12-2016, 02:36
You need to power slide the escort. It wants and needs to be sideways in the corners. That's the problem with a live axel

Ooo, I remember those days. In my early years, I've had 1 MK1 Escort & 2 MK2 Escorts as well as my Mk4 & 5 Ford Cortinas I used to banger race, the live rear axles are what made them fun. I quickly got the hang of drifting with those, lol.

The Mk1 & 2 Escorts didn't just have live rear axles but also had old fashioned horse & cart leaf springs, so people shouldn't really be expecting it to handle like a car with fully independent rear suspension.

This is how a live axle behaves.

236590

This is independent.
236591