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Supaaafly
10-05-2015, 10:21
So. You, like me, have had problems with the control setup in this game? As with any problem, we must first eliminate all other possibilities...

1. If using a wireless controller, plug it into the Xbox via USB and check if it requires an update. >settings >system >third box down in the left column will tell you what you need to know. Update controller if required.

2. >My games & apps >Games >Project Cars (Start Button) >Manage game. If your game file size is 18.5 GB, you're good. This means the launch day patch has been applied to the game. If not, I'll see you shortly.

3. This will not fix the counter steering lock bug. If it is a huge issue for you, set your 'Steering Deadzone' to 0. This will provide a temporary fix until the (imminent) patch is released, but be warned, this will hamper stability.

With that out of the way, let's get on to configuring your controller. There is no magic fix. We are all different, we all drive differently, we all use the stick differently. I never let go the stick, forever making micro adjustments, even on the straights. Yet I call my brother 'Clicky' because he constantly taps the stick. All the 'perfect' setups I see around the forums, may be perfect for that person, but hopeless to someone else.

What I aim to do here is narrow down the possible iterations for each person, and give you some advice on how I came about my perfect setup. So let's get cracking...

For the purpose of this guide, I suggest you set your assists to the following (oh yes, you are going to be doing some work yourself):

Steering Assist OFF
Braking Assist OFF
Anti-Lock Brakes ON
Stability Control ON
Traction Control ON
Gears YOUR PREFERENCE

I also suggest you set the field of view (FOV) for your preferred camera. For what it's worth, I prefer the helmet cam with the actual helmet removed and a FOV of 72. This allows some peripheral vision, shows all the dials clearly yet doesn't feel like I'm driving from the back seat!

We'll be testing our changes in Free Practice, which is selectable from the main screen. The track we'll use for testing is Imola. Why? It has 3 chicanes with significantly different braking zones, entry/exit speeds. It has a long pit straight with a gentle curve to it. Uphill/ downhill sections. High kerb sections. Off camber corners...in short, it has everything we need to test our set ups. Be sure to set the weather to 'Fixed' and 'Clear'.

Now all we need is a car. We'll be using 3 in total, all untuned. 95% of the work will be done with the BMW 320 Turbo. Why? It's light 1895lbs, powerful 400HP/248ft-lbf, yet balanced 50/50. In short, if your controller works, this car works!

So take it a spin, and see how it goes for you. All 4 tyres should warm up after the first lap (turn from blue to green). Once this happens, the car should be a joy to behold! No? Then we have some more work to do. Once familiar with the car and the track, exit Free Practice and go to the Control Configuration menu.

For the purpose of this guide, first select 'Controller Input Mode 3'. These settings may work on Modes 1&2, but I have not tested this. Also, I shall be ignoring the clutch for now.

THROTTLE
Ok, let's talk 'Deadzones'. A value of '0' gives you trigger response immediately, whereas a value of '100' will give little, if any response until the trigger is fully pressed.
Now, 'Sensitivity'. A value of '0' will make your input more gradual. Whereas a value of '100' will give everything all at once! Therefore...

I see no sense in setting Throttle to anything other than Deadzone 0, Sensitivity 0?! This gives you the full range of play available within the trigger, combined with the most gradual acceleration (if required). IE If a car requires 25% throttle to maintain grip, then you have the ability to apply 25% throttle. Or 50%. Or 100%. It's all available on the trigger.

BRAKE
Similarly, I see no reason for any Deadzone on the brake. You want immediate feel upon application. So again set the Deadzone to '0'.
Sensitivity is a different matter. Remember, a value of '0' will make your input more gradual. Whereas a value of '100' will give everything all at once! Therefore...

If you are completely missing the corner and driving straight ahead - Increase sensitivity by 10%
If you are missing the apex or running a little wide - Increase sensitivity by 5%
If you are hitting braking zones, but falling short of ideal apex - Decrease sensitivity by 5%
If you are locking up, or stopping well short of the corner - Decrease sensitivity by 10%

Continue to adjust Sensitivity settings, and continue testing until you are comfortably hitting most apexes around our track. My brake sensitivity is set at 80%. I come from Forza driving no assists, and am very used to braking late whilst feathering the brakes. Some prefer to really hammer the brakes, and so a much lower setting would be preferred.

STEERING
Steering Deadzone - Now this works a little different. When driving an actual car, if you let go the wheel at speed, it settles back to centre. In order to replicate this in-game, we need to apply a little Steering Deadzone.

Far too little - the wheel will not settle easily and the car will be unstable. Particularly on corner exit.
Perfect - the car turns easily, with the wheel returning to centre on corner exit.
Far too much - the car will become difficult to turn and minor adjustments will become impossible.

My Steering Deadzone is set at 18, and found settings between 10 - 40 to be acceptable. Although 40 looked unusual?!

Steering Sensitivity - Really quite simple this. The current sensitivity is very high. I run this at '0' and would ideally run it at '-10' if I could. I found the car drivable up to a setting of '15', but it wasn't pleasant. Don't despair though, there's a couple more settings to get to which help greatly with steering response..

If you haven't already done so by this point, I suggest you apply these settings and go back to Free Practice to test them. You already know how the BMW handles around Imola (All settings will be as they were, just press 'Start'). You're not looking for a perfect drive...yet. You just want improvement...and here's some pointers:

The slightly curved pit straight is a perfect chance to test your steering deadzone. You should be able to make tiny adjustments, with the wheel always returning to centre when you release the stick.
The first corner (chicane 1) is an ideal spot for testing your hard braking response.
The next set of turns (chicane 2) provides a good spot for testing light braking, as it is a faster chicane, entered at lower speeds.
On exit of the next tight corner leading uphill, you have an ideal chance to test partial throttle response. As full throttle here will likely lead to oversteer (particularly on cold tyres).
Following another hard braking zone at the top of the hill, you're then faced with an off camber high speed turn (which, hopefully when we're done, you can 4 wheel drift around!)
Downhill, then back up again tests everything...including you're driving skills.
Another tight chicane with high kerbs will test your low speed steering response.
The downhill section is useful for testing the 'Speed Sensitivity' setting, which we'll discuss next...

SPEED SENSITIVITY
So what is it? Basically, with this set to '0', and you come tearing down the final hill section of Imola, any minor adjustments you make to the steering will be exaggerated greatly by the time you reach the bottom. Alternatively, if you set it to '100' you're steering input will be so dulled, you'll struggle to change direction at speed.

Now this took a bit of tweaking, but by jumping in 20% increments, then 10%, then 5%, I knew exactly when it felt just right. Between 50-70% appears to be the sweet spot. I was at 65, then changed to 60 after using a faster car. Which we'll get to soon.

CONTROLLER FILTERING SENSITIVITY
Sounds complicated doesn't it? I'm sure it was, but to you and me, it simply applies a filter to every tiny little input you make on the controller. In order to fully appreciate what this does, I suggest you set it to '0' and go for a couple of laps.
100% will not filter all input, but will become somewhat unresponsive. According to WMD Member Gooseone, "Settings up to 85 should still leave some fidelity". I personally found anything over 65% was too obtrusive. With everything else set, it was perfectly drivable at 0%, but it really does feel raw...hard to explain?! I finally settled on 55%, but I think this, more than any other setting is personal preference.

So back to testing. As stated earlier, the final downhill section is your best place to test the Speed Sensitivity.
Controller Filtering Sensitivity (CFS) is probably most noticeable on the pit straight. The minor adjustments required there are very twitchy when CFS is too low. Too high though and you lose feel in the handling.

So that pretty much covers it. Force Feedback really is your own preference. Mine is set at 90, for anyone whose following my own setup. The 'Advanced' settings, I have all switched on. I didn't notice a huge difference with them, once everything else was set, but they did appear to help when correcting a slide or countering oversteer. Basically...if I messed up, it was easier to save with the advanced settings on. Although, again thanks to Gooseone, if you tend to overcorrect, he advises that you turn 'Opposite Lock Help - Off.

If all has gone to plan, you're likely no longer reading this?! You are once again the master of the Tarmac, all that was wrong with the world is right again. I really hope so anyway. But there's a couple more things, to get everything just so...

It's time to discard our beloved Bee-M, and jump into a....cough! BMW Z4 GT3. So why we doing this? It's no good having just one car working with our controller setup, they all need to work. This car is heavier 2744 lbs, faster with more torque 484 HP/364 ft-lbf, yet still balanced 49/50. The tyres are heated right from the get-go. If the 320 turbo was driving beautifully, then this one likely will too, but you may need to tweak 5% here or there on brake balance, or speed sensitivity. Should take no more than a few minutes. When you're all done and setting purple sectors all over the place, I have a little challenge for you...

The Ford Sierra RS500 Cosworth! Remember to let the tyres heat up...

...if this helps even one person enjoy the game like I am now, then, well...I'll be pretty annoyed to be fair cos I've spent ages putting this together...lol. On a serious note though, this game is truly fantastic when it all comes together. To hear of people selling their copies because they can't get the controller to work for them is....at best, bonkers?! At worst, it's just a shame because Project Cars has the potential to be incredible. The racing community helped shape the game, and it's now up to the rest of us to help shape a community that will keep the game relevant for the months and years ahead.

Olijke Poffer
10-05-2015, 10:44
Wow that is an amazing post. Thanks for that. I will put it to the test today... ;)

menaceuk
10-05-2015, 10:47
Yeah, great post. Wish we had this two days ago.

BlueFin175
10-05-2015, 11:52
Kudos for the effort and thought that went into this post, many thanks.

Muzickman76
10-05-2015, 12:46
Best post I've read so far, thanks so much for the help. This has already massively increased my enjoyment of what I know is a great game, and I've only done test laps on Imola as you suggested. I can't wait to play more!

Rob Prange
10-05-2015, 12:48
What a way to make a first post in a new forum - Good stuff! :)

tarbat
10-05-2015, 13:07
Great guide, but what precisely is the difference between Input Modes 1, 2, & 3?

Sharky Hughes
10-05-2015, 13:14
Your my new best friend ;)

Appreciate the time and effort that has gone into this and can say this setup with a personal tweeks has transformed the feel of this game.

I doff my cap to you Sir

Dazza1976
10-05-2015, 13:28
"THROTTLE
Ok, let's talk 'Deadzones'. A value of '0' gives you trigger response immediately, whereas a value of '100' will give little, if any response until the trigger is fully pressed.
Now, 'Sensitivity'. A value of '0' will make your input more gradual. Whereas a value of '100' will give everything all at once! Therefore...

I see no sense in setting Throttle to anything other than Deadzone 0, Sensitivity 0?! This gives you the full range of play available within the trigger, combined with the most gradual acceleration (if required). IE If a car requires 25% throttle to maintain grip, then you have the ability to apply 25% throttle. Or 50%. Or 100%. It's all available on the trigger."

Great post but to clarify the above the entire range of braking / throttle in game, regardless of settings, is not mapped correctly to the physical input on the triggers. Turn on telemetry in game (press d-pad left a few times) and you will see that you only have to pull triggers approx 70% to hit full brake / throttle regardless of settings. The settings will change how this 70% physical real-world use of triggers is reflected in game but nothing gets the missing 30% movement active. Ian has said that they have patched the similar stick input bug so hopefully this will include issue on triggers. With ABS and traction control you can still play even with trigger issues but with aids off the braking and throttle response in game using pad are broken because of this issue.

Thanks for the breakdown on the other settings though, very useful.

Supaaafly
10-05-2015, 13:45
Great guide, but what precisely is the difference between Input Modes 1, 2, & 3?

Have seen a few comments from WMD members and although by no means a direct quote, as I understand it...Input Mode 1 has a larger deadzone area than Input 2, and 2 is better suited to older controllers than 3. Or something like that?! my understanding of the detail is a little vague. I do know that if you set your controller on Input 3, as suggested, then copy those settings exactly into Input 1 or 2, the car will handle differently. Experiment, and see what works. Let me know what you find.

ncrowe
10-05-2015, 14:25
You are a legend .. the most important satisfyingly helpful post that works beautiful thankyou for your effort in explain.
Well done

MajorMatty
10-05-2015, 14:33
Fantastic guide, thank you :applause:

Gooseone
10-05-2015, 15:39
Don't forget to mention that setting steering ratio slower in the car setup screen under the alignment tab is akin to decreasing steering sensitivity to sub- zero.
The difference between the input modes (apart from the differing deadzone in mode 1) is steering speed, and this steering speed depends on what you're doing and how fast you're going.

Bert206
10-05-2015, 16:53
Nice one supaaafly I can finally control the cars cheers

Orothil
10-05-2015, 18:18
Thank you for your input it helped me very much :)

tarbat
10-05-2015, 18:23
The difference between the input modes (apart from the differing deadzone in mode 1) is steering speed, and this steering speed depends on what you're doing and how fast you're going.

So which has the fastest steering speed - mode 1 or 2 or 3?

Markush1980
10-05-2015, 18:33
Thanks for a brilliant guide I have been getting very frustrated with the controls but just can't justify 300 for a wheel. I've adjusted my settings and am about to put them to the test. Whether they work for me or not, thanks for taking the time and effort to help others out ��

Gooseone
10-05-2015, 18:42
So which has the fastest steering speed - mode 1 or 2 or 3?

I think mode 1 is the fastest (not completely sure though) but i find it a bit wacky personally, never use(d) it. Between 3 and 2, 2 is the faster one.

tarbat
10-05-2015, 18:46
I think mode 1 is the fastest (not completely sure though) but i find it a bit wacky personally, never use(d) it. Between 3 and 2, 2 is the faster one.

Many thanks for that answer. My requirements are probably unique, as I'm using a MS SpeedWheel with CronusMax, so want steering to exactly match the movement of the SpeedWheel.

KkDrummer
10-05-2015, 18:48
I think mode 1 is the fastest (not completely sure though) but i find it a bit wacky personally, never use(d) it. Between 3 and 2, 2 is the faster one.

I thought the modes were presets. Once you've made a change they become 'a customised setup'.

z250js2
10-05-2015, 18:53
i know its hard to follow but if you set your controller settings to these and when changing car types change to the preference settings listed below it will make every car drivable and very controllable if you need more turning try to adjust the Speed Sensitivity that seems to be the key. hope this helps. also i have printed this list of and have put it in the back sleeve of the game box for quick reference. so i have made it printer friendly just copy and paste whats below and hit print.

Project Cars Controller Settings
Note: All Dead Zones Remain the same when changing cars

Key
Preference:- second number (if two given)
Alternative:- first number (if two given)

Normal Cars (Road/Race/GT/LMP1+2/Touring/NASCAR)
Steering Sensitivity: 30
Throttle Sensitivity: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 30
Speed Sensitivity: 75-80

Open-Wheel Cars (All Formula Cars/Old F1)
Steering Sensitivity: 30
Throttle Sensitivity: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 30
Speed Sensitivity: 65-70

Go Karts (Kart One/Super Kart)
Steering Sensitivity: 40
Throttle Sensitivity: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 30
Speed Sensitivity: 35-40

All other Settings And Deadzones (Do Not Change)
Steering Deadzone: 60
Throttle Deadzone: 20
Brake Deadzone: 20
Clutch Deadzone: 20
Clutch Sensitivity: 40
Controller Filtering Sensitivity: 15
Damper Saturation: Locked
Force Feedback: 0
RPM/Gear Display: On
Controller Input Mode: 3
Advanced: On
Soft Steering Dampening: On
Visual Wheel Filtering: On
Opposite Lock Help: Off

Gooseone
10-05-2015, 18:56
Many thanks for that answer. My requirements are probably unique, as I'm using a MS SpeedWheel with CronusMax, so want steering to exactly match the movement of the SpeedWheel.

Although that requirement can currently not be fulfilled fully, you can get a long way buy adjusting things.


I thought the modes were presets. Once you've made a change they become 'a customised setup'.

They differ in more ways then what you can adjust in the menu.

Shumway
10-05-2015, 20:43
Kudos to you my friend. Excellent guide.
It is worth mentioning though, that if you have changed the steering ratio on your cars, you may want to reset that when you have completed this guide.
After going through the guide, I came back to one of the cars where I had changed the ratio to the slow side, and it was really sluggish to drive. After a reset the steering was just as I wanted it.

Now we can only wait for SMS to complete the patch, so we can get the ratio for stick and trigger movements to match up with what is happening in the game.

After being a bit dissapointed to begin with, I now find this game awesome!

mDaro
10-05-2015, 20:54
Game comes out on Tuesday here so I will make sure to make these changes as soon as I get logged in! Great post!

Ixoye56
10-05-2015, 21:08
Excellent guide, I myself had come to the same conclusion after a lot of hours of testing, try the BMW E-30 also.

Take it for a spin at Brands Hatch, super fun track with this car.

vimfuego
10-05-2015, 21:27
Firstly, thank Buddha for you and this guide. I think the biggest problem with the controls is there are just far too many configurations. It's basically what I had on the of when I used to play gtr 1 and 2 years ago. Sometimes fewer choices may be better. Thanks again man, ill try this until it gets patched.

Pressure Drop
10-05-2015, 22:50
Brilliant post thank you... i will definately use this guide when i play tomorrow. Seems i need to change my sensitivity to zero, because the slightest touch of right stick makes a massive turn in the car, and the throttle seems to be at maximum even when i half press the trigger. Hope this will solve it !

paolocarpaediem
11-05-2015, 05:47
Thanks.

K3NCars
11-05-2015, 07:22
Wow nice post. Thanks!

Additionally to changing the controller settings I've put a 0.5-1mm rubber band round the left stick to avoid the max. steering angle. This works very well in the Clio Cup.

menaceuk
11-05-2015, 08:05
i know its hard to follow but if you set your controller settings to these and when changing car types change to the preference settings listed below it will make every car drivable and very controllable if you need more turning try to adjust the Speed Sensitivity that seems to be the key. hope this helps. also i have printed this list of and have put it in the back sleeve of the game box for quick reference. so i have made it printer friendly just copy and paste whats below and hit print.

Project Cars Controller Settings
Note: All Dead Zones Remain the same when changing cars

Key
Preference:- second number (if two given)
Alternative:- first number (if two given)

Normal Cars (Road/Race/GT/LMP1+2/Touring/NASCAR)
Steering Sensitivity: 30
Throttle Sensitivity: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 30
Speed Sensitivity: 75-80

Open-Wheel Cars (All Formula Cars/Old F1)
Steering Sensitivity: 30
Throttle Sensitivity: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 30
Speed Sensitivity: 65-70

Go Karts (Kart One/Super Kart)
Steering Sensitivity: 40
Throttle Sensitivity: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 30
Speed Sensitivity: 35-40

All other Settings And Deadzones (Do Not Change)
Steering Deadzone: 60
Throttle Deadzone: 20
Brake Deadzone: 20
Clutch Deadzone: 20
Clutch Sensitivity: 40
Controller Filtering Sensitivity: 15
Damper Saturation: Locked
Force Feedback: 0
RPM/Gear Display: On
Controller Input Mode: 3
Advanced: On
Soft Steering Dampening: On
Visual Wheel Filtering: On
Opposite Lock Help: Off

What does "Soft Steering Dampening: On" actually do?

Crunch70
11-05-2015, 08:17
Thanks Supaaafly read through and it sounds a great start to configuring the controller to our own personal preference. I look forward to trying it out tonight!!

Chris Wollaston-Savage
11-05-2015, 09:19
Great guide, but what precisely is the difference between Input Modes 1, 2, & 3?

There are some options behind the scenes that were previously available on the PC in the debug menu which are switched on in modes 1 and 2, but not in three. It makes the damping a little less direct and helps move the splines on the curve.


What does "Soft Steering Dampening: On" actually do?

IIRC, it helps make the micro-adjustments a bit less jerky but not less sensitive.

chris4652009
11-05-2015, 09:50
.........There is no magic fix. We are all different, we all drive differently, we all use the stick differently. I never let go the stick, forever making micro adjustments, even on the straights. Yet I call my brother 'Clicky' because he constantly taps the stick. All the 'perfect' setups I see around the forums, may be perfect for that person, but hopeless to someone else.......

I'm like this too, and tips for a "Clicky" steerer please?
what set-up does your brother use please?

DeviR11
11-05-2015, 10:18
Thank you for great guide man! Finally I know meaning of this terms, and what each slider do. But one thing I don't know (and it will be tricky to explain, because english is not my mother language, but perhaps you will understand me): Is there some option, how can I use these sliders to make the analog stick usable on all its track for turning wheels? Because my main problem is, that when I push analog stick little bit on side, probably on 50% of maximum range, wheels are turn on max. So there is big empty space, where I can move with analog stick, but wheels do nothing. And the result is, that driving car in this game is very difficult for me. First I was thinking, that this game is racing simulator, so this issue I have with driving is just result of my inability. So I working on that, but I would be grateful for some option to turn wheels on max by pushing the analog stick on end of its range.

tarbat
11-05-2015, 11:27
Is there some option, how can I use these sliders to make the analog stick usable on all its track for turning wheels? Because my main problem is, that when I push analog stick little bit on side, probably on 50% of maximum range, wheels are turn on max. So there is big empty space, where I can move with analog stick, but wheels do nothing.

No, all you can do is wait for release of the patch to fix this.

EnzaKnight
11-05-2015, 11:57
I had already unpined my game and was contemplating deleting it of my XB1 when I saw your post. Have just spent the last 4 hours havin lotsa fun all because of you ��

Bigsteviet
11-05-2015, 12:36
Thanks Supaafly - you're a hero!

I'd already come to similar settings, but I think you're going to be the salvation of many gamers who might not think to tweak. Good work.

I'm 'happy' (less unhappy) with the gas and brake, but can't get the steering properly usable (especially for corrections). I look forward to trying the steering rack ratio tonight :)

Soulcase
11-05-2015, 12:45
Dude,your awesome, but 1, you should not have to be doing this, 2, I think the game is still flawed, although potentially great and 3 it should of come with a warning that it was only really playable witha wheel, I would of left well alone, I play forza with controller, and that was what this game was billed to rival.
on that configuration screen, there's a big ass empty space that could of been filled with tx explaining what each slider does in relation to the game and other sliders, where's the fucking info for this game, can't see how to get the pit engineer speaking or explaining, I cant Tune cars cos I'm not a race driver and without relevant information I don't know what I'm affectin, I've spent 4 hours of gameplay just trying to configure my controller so I can drive the fucking cars, I haven't completed one lap, thoroughly fed up with it! I even took the time to consult the digital manual, expecting an app on its own with oodles of in depth info, but what I got was the same trivial 8th grade style basic info on what the menus are that I can read on the xbox help snap to screen bullshit.

Potentially the game is great, but it seems to be a game made by race drivers for race drivers and pro sim racers with expensive set ups but sold and marketed to a mass market who are then laughed at for assuming they wouldn't need a steering wheel and race pedals. Well fuck you for pissing me off, please make it right

Bealdor
11-05-2015, 13:30
I know I'm late to the party but: BEST FIRST POST... EVER! :yes:

chris4652009
11-05-2015, 14:19
Dude,your awesome, but 1, you should not have to be doing this, 2, I think the game is still flawed, although potentially great and 3 it should of come with a warning that it was only really playable witha wheel, I would of left well alone, I play forza with controller, and that was what this game was billed to rival.
on that configuration screen, there's a big ass empty space that could of been filled with tx explaining what each slider does in relation to the game and other sliders, where's the fucking info for this game, can't see how to get the pit engineer speaking or explaining, I cant Tune cars cos I'm not a race driver and without relevant information I don't know what I'm affectin, I've spent 4 hours of gameplay just trying to configure my controller so I can drive the fucking cars, I haven't completed one lap, thoroughly fed up with it! I even took the time to consult the digital manual, expecting an app on its own with oodles of in depth info, but what I got was the same trivial 8th grade style basic info on what the menus are that I can read on the xbox help snap to screen bullshit.

Potentially the game is great, but it seems to be a game made by race drivers for race drivers and pro sim racers with expensive set ups but sold and marketed to a mass market who are then laughed at for assuming they wouldn't need a steering wheel and race pedals. Well fuck you for pissing me off, please make it right


Good post

Pressure Drop
11-05-2015, 15:31
I tried out these settings today and they have made a drastic improvement to the overall handling of the game, using a controller. The most important thing for me i think was setting all the sensitivity and deadzones down to 0. It helps massively. Still some minor tweaks i probably need to make, but thanks once again OP for the info

menaceuk
11-05-2015, 17:55
There are some options behind the scenes that were previously available on the PC in the debug menu which are switched on in modes 1 and 2, but not in three. It makes the damping a little less direct and helps move the splines on the curve.



IIRC, it helps make the micro-adjustments a bit less jerky but not less sensitive.

Cool. I will have to give it a go.

Thanks.

MelBonkers
11-05-2015, 20:53
Supaafly, genious post mate! I subscribed to this thread right away ;-). And yes, you have to be Bonkers to not appreciate Project CARS ;-).

General_RIMT
12-05-2015, 09:14
I've had a very hilarious time tweaking and trying different setups. Couldnt find a good group of settings at all. Then, I decided to clear my settings and just try out the 3 input modes with their default settings. Lol I ended up on input 2 with the default settings and if feels SO perfect! It might work for you, it might not. If ive learned one thing, is that every person has a different taste. Thank you SMS for an awesome racing game! And thank you Stephen basted for that throwback rework of the GTR themesong. So many good memories.

Jaroslav Turna
12-05-2015, 09:36
For those who like MODE2 (Real assists):

These are my current personal settings based on default MODE2 (you may like it even more than default):


steering sensitivity can be also lowered to 1

Crunch70
12-05-2015, 10:11
Fantastic that is all I can say I went through every bit on setting up and handling is a lot better on nearly everything just a bit to twitchy on the 250cc karts (125cc are great) but a little bit of tweaking and they should be good. Lap times vastly improved thank you

menaceuk
12-05-2015, 10:29
For those who like MODE2:

These are my current personal settings based on default MODE2 (you may like it even more than default):

Does it matter what mode you have it on when you are changing the settings anyway? I imagine it would make no difference, unless each mode has certain parameters that are not changeable or seen in the menu.

Bealdor
12-05-2015, 10:37
Does it matter what mode you have it on when you are changing the settings anyway? I imagine it would make no difference, unless each mode has certain parameters that are not changeable or seen in the menu.

There are settings tied to the different modes that you can't change. So, the chosen mode does always matter.

Jaroslav Turna
12-05-2015, 11:05
Yes, MODEs change things, that are not modifiable from the game menu (turning speeds to name one, but there is much more). That is why they are there and why they are named MODEs not Presets. If you have all values set the same, but different MODE, the input will behave quiet differently.

menaceuk
12-05-2015, 11:21
There are settings tied to the different modes that you can't change. So, the chosen mode does always matter.


Yes, MODEs change things, that are not modifiable from the game menu (turning speeds to name one, but there is much more). That is why they are there and why they are named MODEs not Presets. If you have all values set the same, but different MODE, the input will behave quiet differently.

Interesting. I might have to mess about with the other modes then.

Thanks guys.

Apoc112
12-05-2015, 11:25
Thanks OP and everyone here. I was having some trouble out of the box (oddly, i didn't find it nearly this difficult to find comfortable settings on the PC version using an xbox one controller), but this guide helped tremendously. Just some steering ratio adjustments on certain cars, and everything feels great.

c9mpower
12-05-2015, 11:49
This helped immensely, great post and thank you OP

V8 JEDI
12-05-2015, 12:51
Wow... This is the post I've been praying for! Like many of you, I too had major issues with getting my settings dialled in. And was on the verge of just writing this game off as a bad purchase, but within 30 minutes of spotting this, I was winning races in the Capri from the back of the grid in heavy rain! What a transformation! Major kudo's to Supaaafly, you sir have enabled us all to enjoy this stunning piece of software as it was intended. Respect Dude! 👍👍👍 (Note to Devs - Buy this man a Ferrari. He may have just single handedly saved your game). 😁

Supaaafly
12-05-2015, 16:31
Note to Devs - Buy this man a Ferrari. He may have just single handedly saved your game. 😁

I'd be happy with the Ford Capri! ;)

koda.72
12-05-2015, 19:34
This is amazing! Thank you!!!

Chest Lover
12-05-2015, 21:51
So. You, like me, have had problems with the control setup in this game? As with any problem, we must first eliminate all other possibilities...

1. If using a wireless controller, plug it into the Xbox via USB and check if it requires an update. >settings >system >third box down in the left column will tell you what you need to know. Update controller if required.

2. >My games & apps >Games >Project Cars (Start Button) >Manage game. If your game file size is 18.5 GB, you're good. This means the launch day patch has been applied to the game. If not, I'll see you shortly.

3. This will not fix the counter steering lock bug. If it is a huge issue for you, set your 'Steering Deadzone' to 0. This will provide a temporary fix until the (imminent) patch is released, but be warned, this will hamper stability.

With that out of the way, let's get on to configuring your controller. There is no magic fix. We are all different, we all drive differently, we all use the stick differently. I never let go the stick, forever making micro adjustments, even on the straights. Yet I call my brother 'Clicky' because he constantly taps the stick. All the 'perfect' setups I see around the forums, may be perfect for that person, but hopeless to someone else.

What I aim to do here is narrow down the possible iterations for each person, and give you some advice on how I came about my perfect setup. So let's get cracking...

For the purpose of this guide, I suggest you set your assists to the following (oh yes, you are going to be doing some work yourself):

Steering Assist OFF
Braking Assist OFF
Anti-Lock Brakes ON
Stability Control ON
Traction Control ON
Gears YOUR PREFERENCE

I also suggest you set the field of view (FOV) for your preferred camera. For what it's worth, I prefer the helmet cam with the actual helmet removed and a FOV of 72. This allows some peripheral vision, shows all the dials clearly yet doesn't feel like I'm driving from the back seat!

We'll be testing our changes in Free Practice, which is selectable from the main screen. The track we'll use for testing is Imola. Why? It has 3 chicanes with significantly different braking zones, entry/exit speeds. It has a long pit straight with a gentle curve to it. Uphill/ downhill sections. High kerb sections. Off camber corners...in short, it has everything we need to test our set ups. Be sure to set the weather to 'Fixed' and 'Clear'.

Now all we need is a car. We'll be using 3 in total, all untuned. 95% of the work will be done with the BMW 320 Turbo. Why? It's light 1895lbs, powerful 400HP/248ft-lbf, yet balanced 50/50. In short, if your controller works, this car works!

So take it a spin, and see how it goes for you. All 4 tyres should warm up after the first lap (turn from blue to green). Once this happens, the car should be a joy to behold! No? Then we have some more work to do. Once familiar with the car and the track, exit Free Practice and go to the Control Configuration menu.

For the purpose of this guide, first select 'Controller Input Mode 3'. These settings may work on Modes 1&2, but I have not tested this. Also, I shall be ignoring the clutch for now.

THROTTLE
Ok, let's talk 'Deadzones'. A value of '0' gives you trigger response immediately, whereas a value of '100' will give little, if any response until the trigger is fully pressed.
Now, 'Sensitivity'. A value of '0' will make your input more gradual. Whereas a value of '100' will give everything all at once! Therefore...

I see no sense in setting Throttle to anything other than Deadzone 0, Sensitivity 0?! This gives you the full range of play available within the trigger, combined with the most gradual acceleration (if required). IE If a car requires 25% throttle to maintain grip, then you have the ability to apply 25% throttle. Or 50%. Or 100%. It's all available on the trigger.

BRAKE
Similarly, I see no reason for any Deadzone on the brake. You want immediate feel upon application. So again set the Deadzone to '0'.
Sensitivity is a different matter. Remember, a value of '0' will make your input more gradual. Whereas a value of '100' will give everything all at once! Therefore...

If you are completely missing the corner and driving straight ahead - Increase sensitivity by 10%
If you are missing the apex or running a little wide - Increase sensitivity by 5%
If you are hitting braking zones, but falling short of ideal apex - Decrease sensitivity by 5%
If you are locking up, or stopping well short of the corner - Decrease sensitivity by 10%

Continue to adjust Sensitivity settings, and continue testing until you are comfortably hitting most apexes around our track. My brake sensitivity is set at 80%. I come from Forza driving no assists, and am very used to braking late whilst feathering the brakes. Some prefer to really hammer the brakes, and so a much lower setting would be preferred.

STEERING
Steering Deadzone - Now this works a little different. When driving an actual car, if you let go the wheel at speed, it settles back to centre. In order to replicate this in-game, we need to apply a little Steering Deadzone.

Far too little - the wheel will not settle easily and the car will be unstable. Particularly on corner exit.
Perfect - the car turns easily, with the wheel returning to centre on corner exit.
Far too much - the car will become difficult to turn and minor adjustments will become impossible.

My Steering Deadzone is set at 18, and found settings between 10 - 40 to be acceptable. Although 40 looked unusual?!

Steering Sensitivity - Really quite simple this. The current sensitivity is very high. I run this at '0' and would ideally run it at '-10' if I could. I found the car drivable up to a setting of '15', but it wasn't pleasant. Don't despair though, there's a couple more settings to get to which help greatly with steering response..

If you haven't already done so by this point, I suggest you apply these settings and go back to Free Practice to test them. You already know how the BMW handles around Imola (All settings will be as they were, just press 'Start'). You're not looking for a perfect drive...yet. You just want improvement...and here's some pointers:

The slightly curved pit straight is a perfect chance to test your steering deadzone. You should be able to make tiny adjustments, with the wheel always returning to centre when you release the stick.
The first corner (chicane 1) is an ideal spot for testing your hard braking response.
The next set of turns (chicane 2) provides a good spot for testing light braking, as it is a faster chicane, entered at lower speeds.
On exit of the next tight corner leading uphill, you have an ideal chance to test partial throttle response. As full throttle here will likely lead to oversteer (particularly on cold tyres).
Following another hard braking zone at the top of the hill, you're then faced with an off camber high speed turn (which, hopefully when we're done, you can 4 wheel drift around!)
Downhill, then back up again tests everything...including you're driving skills.
Another tight chicane with high kerbs will test your low speed steering response.
The downhill section is useful for testing the 'Speed Sensitivity' setting, which we'll discuss next...

SPEED SENSITIVITY
So what is it? Basically, with this set to '0', and you come tearing down the final hill section of Imola, any minor adjustments you make to the steering will be exaggerated greatly by the time you reach the bottom. Alternatively, if you set it to '100' you're steering input will be so dulled, you'll struggle to change direction at speed.

Now this took a bit of tweaking, but by jumping in 20% increments, then 10%, then 5%, I knew exactly when it felt just right. Between 50-70% appears to be the sweet spot. I was at 65, then changed to 60 after using a faster car. Which we'll get to soon.

CONTROLLER FILTERING SENSITIVITY
Sounds complicated doesn't it? I'm sure it was, but to you and me, it simply applies a filter to every tiny little input you make on the controller. In order to fully appreciate what this does, I suggest you set it to '0' and go for a couple of laps.
100% will not filter all input, but will become somewhat unresponsive. According to WMD Member Gooseone, "Settings up to 85 should still leave some fidelity". I personally found anything over 65% was too obtrusive. With everything else set, it was perfectly drivable at 0%, but it really does feel raw...hard to explain?! I finally settled on 55%, but I think this, more than any other setting is personal preference.

So back to testing. As stated earlier, the final downhill section is your best place to test the Speed Sensitivity.
Controller Filtering Sensitivity (CFS) is probably most noticeable on the pit straight. The minor adjustments required there are very twitchy when CFS is too low. Too high though and you lose feel in the handling.

So that pretty much covers it. Force Feedback really is your own preference. Mine is set at 90, for anyone whose following my own setup. The 'Advanced' settings, I have all switched on. I didn't notice a huge difference with them, once everything else was set, but they did appear to help when correcting a slide or countering oversteer. Basically...if I messed up, it was easier to save with the advanced settings on. Although, again thanks to Gooseone, if you tend to overcorrect, he advises that you turn 'Opposite Lock Help - Off.

If all has gone to plan, you're likely no longer reading this?! You are once again the master of the Tarmac, all that was wrong with the world is right again. I really hope so anyway. But there's a couple more things, to get everything just so...

It's time to discard our beloved Bee-M, and jump into a....cough! BMW Z4 GT3. So why we doing this? It's no good having just one car working with our controller setup, they all need to work. This car is heavier 2744 lbs, faster with more torque 484 HP/364 ft-lbf, yet still balanced 49/50. The tyres are heated right from the get-go. If the 320 turbo was driving beautifully, then this one likely will too, but you may need to tweak 5% here or there on brake balance, or speed sensitivity. Should take no more than a few minutes. When you're all done and setting purple sectors all over the place, I have a little challenge for you...

The Ford Sierra RS500 Cosworth! Remember to let the tyres heat up...

...if this helps even one person enjoy the game like I am now, then, well...I'll be pretty annoyed to be fair cos I've spent ages putting this together...lol. On a serious note though, this game is truly fantastic when it all comes together. To hear of people selling their copies because they can't get the controller to work for them is....at best, bonkers?! At worst, it's just a shame because Project Cars has the potential to be incredible. The racing community helped shape the game, and it's now up to the rest of us to help shape a community that will keep the game relevant for the months and years ahead.

A BIG thanks for this, enjoying the game so much more now !!! thankyou :)

WRT IVORBIGUN
12-05-2015, 22:03
Quick tip for you all until the patch arrives.

Before I begin I shall say that last time I checked (this afternoon) I was 13th in the community time trials using the Clio around Brands Hatch and was the fastest controller user. Just thought I would mention this to highlight my settings work.

Steering assist on this game does not work like it does on say Forza where the steering is done for you. With this setting switched to on the cars are far less twitchy and feel heavier. Having this setting to on is similiar to using Normal steering on Forza compared to sim steering. If you switch to yes you may need to increase steering sensitivity and reduce force feedback.

Once the patch is applied I shall be switching this off.

The 40oz Method
12-05-2015, 22:50
Quick tip for you all until the patch arrives.

Before I begin I shall say that last time I checked (this afternoon) I was 13th in the community time trials using the Clio around Brands Hatch and was the fastest controller user. Just thought I would mention this to highlight my settings work.

Steering assist on this game does not work like it does on say Forza where the steering is done for you. With this setting switched to on the cars are far less twitchy and feel heavier. Having this setting to on is similiar to using Normal steering on Forza compared to sim steering. If you switch to yes you may need to increase steering sensitivity and reduce force feedback.

Once the patch is applied I shall be switching this off.

Can you post yours? I am close to a good feel but would love to compare.

biggy brains
12-05-2015, 23:01
Thank you so much for this. I can finally play the game. I literally couldn't get down a simple straight prior to reading this. Lifesaver, I've only done one lap but I could already drive around the track. Now, onto actually playing this game.

Cheekiecharlie
12-05-2015, 23:53
Well, managed to get to play the game for about an hour today, couldn't make head nor tail of what some of the settings were doing, slowly changed one, then drive, change another.

Thanks op, I'll give your settings a try tomorrow, hopefully get to play it for a bit longer and start to get to grips with what I think will be the racing game of the decade :cool:

jsykes
13-05-2015, 03:06
This post helped a ton. I was ready to throw this controller through the TV cause I couldnt get it right. Its still a bit too sensitive to my liking, but its drivable now, so hopefully i'll just get used to it and enjoy the game.

Thanks.

riddlerap
13-05-2015, 04:21
amazing thread and guide. this helped me greatly enjoy the game wayyyy more.

i will say, ive tried a couple cars that this particular setup didnt seem "amazing" on, the Audi R8 road car being one, and then the older Lotus formula cars. but im not placing the blame on this. this helped with 90% of the cars in game. its basically perfect. game changer.

stuarta99
13-05-2015, 08:12
Project Cars Controller Settings
Note: All Dead Zones Remain the same when changing cars

Key
Preference:- second number (if two given)
Alternative:- first number (if two given)

Normal Cars (Road/Race/GT/LMP1+2/Touring/NASCAR)
Steering Sensitivity: 30
Throttle Sensitivity: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 30
Speed Sensitivity: 75-80

Open-Wheel Cars (All Formula Cars/Old F1)
Steering Sensitivity: 30
Throttle Sensitivity: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 30
Speed Sensitivity: 65-70

Go Karts (Kart One/Super Kart)
Steering Sensitivity: 40
Throttle Sensitivity: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 30
Speed Sensitivity: 35-40

All other Settings And Deadzones (Do Not Change)
Steering Deadzone: 60
Throttle Deadzone: 20
Brake Deadzone: 20
Clutch Deadzone: 20
Clutch Sensitivity: 40
Controller Filtering Sensitivity: 15
Damper Saturation: Locked
Force Feedback: 0
RPM/Gear Display: On
Controller Input Mode: 3
Advanced: On
Soft Steering Dampening: On
Visual Wheel Filtering: On
Opposite Lock Help: Off

Just tried these last night myself and was amazed by the difference it made on the kart. Don't know that the 'mode' means but it works

bigdaddyx2005
13-05-2015, 17:39
Dude,your awesome, but 1, you should not have to be doing this, 2, I think the game is still flawed, although potentially great and 3 it should of come with a warning that it was only really playable witha wheel, I would of left well alone, I play forza with controller, and that was what this game was billed to rival.
on that configuration screen, there's a big ass empty space that could of been filled with tx explaining what each slider does in relation to the game and other sliders, where's the fucking info for this game, can't see how to get the pit engineer speaking or explaining, I cant Tune cars cos I'm not a race driver and without relevant information I don't know what I'm affectin, I've spent 4 hours of gameplay just trying to configure my controller so I can drive the fucking cars, I haven't completed one lap, thoroughly fed up with it! I even took the time to consult the digital manual, expecting an app on its own with oodles of in depth info, but what I got was the same trivial 8th grade style basic info on what the menus are that I can read on the xbox help snap to screen bullshit.

Potentially the game is great, but it seems to be a game made by race drivers for race drivers and pro sim racers with expensive set ups but sold and marketed to a mass market who are then laughed at for assuming they wouldn't need a steering wheel and race pedals. Well fuck you for pissing me off, please make it right


wow really...lol....this game is good and is nothing like forza not saying its better or anyting but different its a sim and if anyone I will say they have has played iracing or assetto corsa then you know why thoughs are not on consoles. I do feel for the controller guys dont get me wrong but this game was made from people that wanted these settings in them. SMS took that info and built it on that and yes race drivers had input also but so did a lot of other people. This game is different than any thing console guys are used to settings wise PC guys are used to this.. I would love to see Assetto corse on console but we prob. never will. and yes I have a wheel setup but I played with my friends last night for 3 hours on my xbox one controller so that I could help them set it up. Give it time man all I hear is every forza guy saying oh this game sucks why cause ya cant run around in it playing with a controller like ya can in forza and ya have to sit and really tune and setup your stuff. I do twitch so that f anyone wants to sit and set stuff up I will I have sit for over 4hrs to help man...but hey keep digging its there man...

Hubcap
13-05-2015, 21:05
Incredibly helpful. Thank you, thank you.

WRT IVORBIGUN
13-05-2015, 21:57
I use alternative settings to those that have been posted and last time I checked I had some of the fastest laptimes using the controller. At the moment I have a 51,536 in the Clio around Brands Hatch in the community time trials.

My settings are similiar to the above posted but my steering sensitivity is 25 and my speed sensitivity is 65. A steering sensitivity of 30 is way too high unless you're driving a car that experiences alot of understeer i.e FWD.

Another tip is assisted steering does not steer your car like Forza. What this does is make the cars feel heavier and as a result far less twitchy. If you do switch this on then, you may need to increase your steering senstivity especially with FWD.

My final tip which is especially useful for online is this. Assign traction control a button, I use A. This means you can switch traction control on/off whilst racing. This is useful if a particular turn is causing issues or its starts to rain or you have cold tyres. You can also assign either assisted steering to a button or Stabilty control. These are all useful tips because when you join a room and the host selects various cars you have the option of switching these assists on if required.

papabear
13-05-2015, 22:30
Thanks a ton. The steering lock bug is still a pain in the ass, but the descriptions you have for each setting helped a ton.

Dewstain
14-05-2015, 15:54
This post is perfect, I was able to really refine what I was doing.

Thanks!

Now this game is playable and I can almost feel the car.

Dewstain
14-05-2015, 16:14
OK, so I've got the 320 pretty manageable based on that post.

Here are my settings:

http://i.imgur.com/Fpb1zQsh.png

http://i.imgur.com/Xh43H18h.png

http://i.imgur.com/5Ncv9fBh.png

http://i.imgur.com/7sFVl6xh.png



http://youtu.be/igs4kZWrHto

I dare say I very nearly actually enjoyed the game. This post was VERY helpful.

Cliffyboy1962
14-05-2015, 18:08
I use alternative settings to those that have been posted and last time I checked I had some of the fastest laptimes using the controller. At the moment I have a 51,536 in the Clio around Brands Hatch in the community time trials.

My settings are similiar to the above posted but my steering sensitivity is 25 and my speed sensitivity is 65. A steering sensitivity of 30 is way too high unless you're driving a car that experiences alot of understeer i.e FWD.

Another tip is assisted steering does not steer your car like Forza. What this does is make the cars feel heavier and as a result far less twitchy. If you do switch this on then, you may need to increase your steering senstivity especially with FWD.

My final tip which is especially useful for online is this. Assign traction control a button, I use A. This means you can switch traction control on/off whilst racing. This is useful if a particular turn is causing issues or its starts to rain or you have cold tyres. You can also assign either assisted steering to a button or Stabilty control. These are all useful tips because when you join a room and the host selects various cars you have the option of switching these assists on if required.

Are you saying that you are using steering assistance and it actually works for you ? For instance did you use it to do your Clio time ?

I tried it really early on and found it to be un-useable. Memories of my time on Shift 2 where, the only way to stabilise thing for a controller was to have it permanently on, made me think that this should maybe apply here.
The first corner I hit, it just seemed to refuse to turn. Quite the opposite of what I expected to be honest. The only thing I didn't try was putting on Steering assistance and then compensating for the lack of turn in by increasing steering sensitivity. Very tempted to go back and try it again but the fear of yet another disappointment is making me consider not trying anything again till the patch is released. But when will this be ? No real idea to be honest.

Soulcase
14-05-2015, 19:00
Yeah to be fair, loving the game with the new controller settings, and scouring ebay for a force feedback wheel etc, but I'm struggling with online play doesn't seem to be many games going, gonna try find some player lists now, peace

Paulmilly
14-05-2015, 20:45
This guide was a game changer for me, really enjoying it now.. Good work!

Cliffyboy1962
14-05-2015, 20:55
Following up on my Steering Assistance post.

Can't believe how much easier everything has become. A little less speed sensitivity and load more steering sensitivity and the sim has been transformed for me :)

All twitchyness has been ironed out and consistent laps are now a reality but here is the issue......

Steering assistance is what it is. Whilst it cannot compensate for poor throttle control, poor braking, poor corner entry and exit speeds, IT IS compensating for my poor steering inputs and steering mistakes. So is it really still me driving ? I am not sure and am therefore not 100% happy with this solution, but, I am having a whole lot more fun now but with an underlying feeling of guilt that I might be considered as cheating a little.

Would love to hear your input on this fellow simsters.

woodski
15-05-2015, 03:57
My settings, feel free to give them a shot.

Steering Deadzone - 12
Steering Sensitivity - 50
Throttle Deadzone - 0
Throttle Sensitivity - 25
Brake Deadzoe - 0
Brake Sensitivity - 20

Speed Sensitivity - 65
Controller Filtering Sensitivity - 75

WRT IVORBIGUN
15-05-2015, 09:27
Finally I have found the perfect set up for me. I have two options for you although the first option is the preffered method.

Mode 3
Steering Deadzone - 20
Steering Sensitivity - 5
Throttle Deadzone - 0
Throttle Sensitivity - 15
Brake Deadzone - 0
Brake Sensitivity - 35
FFB I prefer 70 but this is up to you.
Speed Sensitivity - 65
Controller Filtering Sensitivity - 20
Advanced On,On,On,off

Now for the crucial part especially if racing online.

Assign traction control to a button (I use A) and Stability control to another (I use Y). The bonus of doing this is if it starts to rain for example, being able to simply switch these assists on or off is very helpful.

Now for my other settings. This is if you are especially struggling.

Same as above except these are if you are going to use steering assist.

Steering deadzone 0
Steering sensitivity 25-30
Speed sensitivity 65
Controller filtering sensitivity 0.

Now instead of assigning Stability control to a button change this to steering assist. Again if you are struggling you can then simply switch this on or off.

Hope this helps until the patch is released.

GRD 4 3L
15-05-2015, 16:03
Following up on my Steering Assistance post.

Can't believe how much easier everything has become. A little less speed sensitivity and load more steering sensitivity and the sim has been transformed for me :)

All twitchyness has been ironed out and consistent laps are now a reality but here is the issue......

Steering assistance is what it is. Whilst it cannot compensate for poor throttle control, poor braking, poor corner entry and exit speeds, IT IS compensating for my poor steering inputs and steering mistakes. So is it really still me driving ? I am not sure and am therefore not 100% happy with this solution, but, I am having a whole lot more fun now but with an underlying feeling of guilt that I might be considered as cheating a little.

Would love to hear your input on this fellow simsters.

I kind of agree with you and on the same boat. I have my controller dialed in but it still has the low speed hypersensitivity. If steering assistance addresses the hypersensitivity then your recommendation completely makes sense. I am excited about trying this out.

If it works, I'll use it and be glad for it.

Cliffyboy1962
15-05-2015, 16:39
I kind of agree with you and on the same boat. I have my controller dialed in but it still has the low speed hypersensitivity. If steering assistance addresses the hypersensitivity then your recommendation completely makes sense. I am excited about trying this out.

If it works, I'll use it and be glad for it.

Let us all know how you get on.

Unfortunately I had a long chat with my dyed-in-the-wool, keeping it real, never use a single assist, racing buddy today and he convinced me to ditch steering assist and use a bunch of settings that had been given to our crew by a serious top of the leaderboards, guy. I tried these settings and went back to falling off the track every 30 seconds and really don't know what to do anymore.

He said "if your serious about your sim racing, youv'e got to forget steering assist, it'll turn you into a skill-less jelly" I said "maybe I am a skill-less jelly and will never get any fun out of this game unless i do use steering assist"

This debate could run and run.

Daveesaunders
15-05-2015, 19:04
Excellent guide can't help but feel this info should be in the large wasted space on screen though! One thing how do you get adjustments to stop happening in blocks of 5? I have noticed that whichever setting I'm on as long as it's not set to 0 drops by 1 when I push B to go back a screen.

WRT IVORBIGUN
15-05-2015, 21:52
Let us all know how you get on.

Unfortunately I had a long chat with my dyed-in-the-wool, keeping it real, never use a single assist, racing buddy today and he convinced me to ditch steering assist and use a bunch of settings that had been given to our crew by a serious top of the leaderboards, guy. I tried these settings and went back to falling off the track every 30 seconds and really don't know what to do anymore.

He said "if your serious about your sim racing, youv'e got to forget steering assist, it'll turn you into a skill-less jelly" I said "maybe I am a skill-less jelly and will never get any fun out of this game unless i do use steering assist"

This debate could run and run.
My advice is use whatever assist you feel comfortable with.

I would agree with your friends comment about "skill less jelly" if we had more control of the analog stick. Until we get the patch it is very hard to be smooth with some cars when you are full lock on the steering by just slightly moving the analog stick. When we get full range of the analog stick then it will be easier to play this game without assists.

Finally I did a test today and could do a 51,500 with steering assist on and off in the community time trial around Brands Hatch in the clio. This is with a stock tune because im useless at tuning.

jonm01
16-05-2015, 11:43
I've had a very hilarious time tweaking and trying different setups. Couldnt find a good group of settings at all. Then, I decided to clear my settings and just try out the 3 input modes with their default settings. Lol I ended up on input 2 with the default settings and if feels SO perfect! It might work for you, it might not. If ive learned one thing, is that every person has a different taste. Thank you SMS for an awesome racing game! And thank you Stephen basted for that throwback rework of the GTR themesong. So many good memories.

Yep. Just went back to mode 2 myself after faffing around with all these "perfect" settings every one is posting on every single forum and guess what, it's spot on. I can actually turn in to a corner now in the Clio.

Chris Sercombe
16-05-2015, 11:45
What do the following 2 options do ? cheers
Soft Steering Dampening
Visual Wheel Filtering

Fruit Loop2020
16-05-2015, 13:32
Sorry but these are useless on open wheel. The power is all wrong, when you ask for it it should be instant

Trumpet
16-05-2015, 15:44
Since following this guide and tweaking it here and there the game has opened up , im putting in qualifying laps on pole sometimes its just so much better .
There is definitely a learning curve to this someone who hadnt played this just had a go and was all over the place they was expecting it to be like all the other racers.I think practice and the controller configuration is the way to make this game perfect when the patch gets here it will be even better.
Great Job

Brunolbqrq
16-05-2015, 16:44
Does anyone know what all these controller calibration options actually mean and affect?

Cliffyboy1962
16-05-2015, 17:06
Does anyone know what all these controller calibration options actually mean and affect?

The only way to truly understand the meaning and effect of each setting is to :-

a) Read the label, which gives you a clue.

b) Try each setting out in turn by changing it from one extreme to the other and trying them out.

farobaba
17-05-2015, 17:38
How do I apply the patch? My game size is 18.1GB. Please help!!!

MelBonkers
18-05-2015, 09:28
farobaba,

Please turn your XBox One off (pressing XBox One button on XB1 untill it switches off). Then restart the XBox One and check if the patch is being downloaded.

rustymike12
18-05-2015, 10:19
How do I apply the patch? My game size is 18.1GB. Please help!!!

Hard reset, unplug power or ON/OFF

farobaba
18-05-2015, 15:55
Thank you gentlemen, I will give it a shot later today.

Gwenladen
21-05-2015, 10:51
Great post, thanks for that !

Greg1812
23-05-2015, 14:00
Thank you Supaaafly, I was having a lot of handling problems and not a lot of fun then I used your guide and wow what a difference. Car handles great times are better and now its fun to play, now that I now how each setting affects the car I can fine tune to fit my driving.

AdM1
23-05-2015, 18:33
I think this is a great set up for beginning but after some time with the game I decided to make the steering more sensitive last night and I'm already taking seconds off previous lap times.

IR Madman
24-05-2015, 20:12
My PC file is only 18.4 GB not 18.5 does that mean I don't have the launch patch?

mi6_
27-05-2015, 04:19
Are we going to need to edit all the Xbox One controller settings when the new patch drops (i.e. the axis for the analogue sticks being re-mapped), or are these settings likely still going to be the best?

Pressure Drop
29-05-2015, 10:56
Are we going to need to edit all the Xbox One controller settings when the new patch drops (i.e. the axis for the analogue sticks being re-mapped), or are these settings likely still going to be the best?

I was wondering about this too!

Chris Sercombe
29-05-2015, 11:35
I kept exactly the same settings i was useing before, all patch done was give you like full use of the stick left and right, like upping the rotation on a steering wheel, meaning better control and less sensitive, or like lowering the steering ratio, all good for the better, your find your just have to move the stick more to get around the corner now, not as jerky or over sensitive as before.

Gooseone
29-05-2015, 20:41
Can anyone tell me how the rumble is on Xbox?

On PC i only have rumble when braking or when going over kerbs/ running off track, there's nothing on the straights or when losing grip when i use an Xbox 360 controller.
I don't even know if it's supposed to be there on PC, i mainly used an Xbox One controller on PC and with that it rumbles all the time :)

AdM1
29-05-2015, 23:01
Can anyone tell me how the rumble is on Xbox?

On PC i only have rumble when braking or when going over kerbs/ running off track, there's nothing on the straights or when losing grip when i use an Xbox 360 controller.
I don't even know if it's supposed to be there on PC, i mainly used an Xbox One controller on PC and with that it rumbles all the time :)

I've mentioned it a few times and seen a few others so I've made a thread see what happens..

Chris Sercombe
30-05-2015, 12:55
"THROTTLE
Ok, let's talk 'Deadzones'. A value of '0' gives you trigger response immediately, whereas a value of '100' will give little, if any response until the trigger is fully pressed.
Now, 'Sensitivity'. A value of '0' will make your input more gradual. Whereas a value of '100' will give everything all at once! Therefore...

I see no sense in setting Throttle to anything other than Deadzone 0, Sensitivity 0?! This gives you the full range of play available within the trigger, combined with the most gradual acceleration (if required). IE If a car requires 25% throttle to maintain grip, then you have the ability to apply 25% throttle. Or 50%. Or 100%. It's all available on the trigger."

Great post but to clarify the above the entire range of braking / throttle in game, regardless of settings, is not mapped correctly to the physical input on the triggers. Turn on telemetry in game (press d-pad left a few times) and you will see that you only have to pull triggers approx 70% to hit full brake / throttle regardless of settings. The settings will change how this 70% physical real-world use of triggers is reflected in game but nothing gets the missing 30% movement active. Ian has said that they have patched the similar stick input bug so hopefully this will include issue on triggers. With ABS and traction control you can still play even with trigger issues but with aids off the braking and throttle response in game using pad are broken because of this issue.

Thanks for the breakdown on the other settings though, very useful.

I just tested the brake and throttle triggers and it dont seem to be as bad as 75% now, do you think they fixed it then ? cheers

Pervasive
30-05-2015, 14:24
My advice is use whatever assist you feel comfortable with.

I would agree with your friends comment about "skill less jelly" if we had more control of the analog stick. Until we get the patch it is very hard to be smooth with some cars when you are full lock on the steering by just slightly moving the analog stick. When we get full range of the analog stick then it will be easier to play this game without assists.

Finally I did a test today and could do a 51,500 with steering assist on and off in the community time trial around Brands Hatch in the clio. This is with a stock tune because im useless at tuning.
Wha- don't remember if it fm4 or 3 thinking four, you were one of the first fast persons tunes that I could drive. Learned a descent amount from running your 787b and following your ghost.

Great tips on the assigning TCS/ steering assist/stability control buttons.
-------

As far as "skill less jelly" (at CLIFFBOY1962 and any user being called that by his team) not using tools at your disposal is silly. I think you should learn to run without TCS with out stability. Etc for series that you need to run without them. But after that. Do what ever makes the driving fun. You can only work so much. It should be enjoyable too. I wouldn't let anyone worry me about driving assist. Pros use TCS. So I think I should be able to as well. And the steering assist doesn't turn the car for you you do. I guess the assisted/non assisted thing will always remain- but last I checked it was the fastest or the most consistent that won the race so. Like water off a duck.

Like I said practice no TCS, ( other assists off) so the feathering and mindset is there. Dial back TCS engagement. Accel Diff settings are your friend when learning how to drive with no TCS, CliffBoy - I've been making the transition as well.

Griffinator233
02-06-2015, 05:46
Oh man thank you. My cars don't jerk when I make a tiny adjustment now or make the rear end slide out when entering a turn. That Ford Cosworth lol I ended up getting a lap time of 2:04 after a few laps with it. Idk if that's good but u laid down a challenge and I accepted it. Just glad I can turn without worrying my rear is gonna lose it.

LetEmLoose90
03-06-2015, 12:24
Plugged these numbers in last night and was amazed! Great write up Supaaafly, this the made the game 20x better to play.

SISPO
03-06-2015, 13:59
This my Setup das sind meine Einstellungen.

Mfg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlI4lYb0BHQ

CaesarsWrath johnboy8722
03-06-2015, 18:14
Awsome stuff dude. I currently run a pretty decent setup myself that I setup but I am gona save them on paper and try yours out and see what I can do. Thanks for the post hope to see you on track ;)

CaesarsWrath johnboy8722
03-06-2015, 18:32
Awsome stuff dude. I currently run a pretty decent setup myself that I setup but I am gona save them on paper and try yours out and see what I can do. Thanks for the post hope to see you on track ;)

TwiiSteDBeAsT
05-06-2015, 12:25
I can't put into words how grateful I am for this. Seriously, you have put so much work into this setup and it's amazing. It's by far the best one I've come across. I've used quite a lot of different ones (including my own) since launch but this works for me. I haven't touched the game properly in about two weeks because I couldn't find a setup that felt natural to me. I already loved the game but this setup has made me love playing it even more. I'm sure you have helped many people, and I thank you for that. This must have taken some time.

j cl arcson
08-06-2015, 22:20
very useful indeed! a few more tweaks and i'll have the feel I am after. Still thinking a steering wheel might be the only way to get the best out of this game, but prepared to keep going a the minute!

lapje
11-06-2015, 19:23
Why can I only change settings in steps of 5. I see in the first post settings are done like 18. Do I not have the patch installed. My game size is 18.7 GB. This instruction is very helpful by the way. ;)

Globespy
12-06-2015, 17:57
This my Setup das sind meine Einstellungen.

Mfg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlI4lYb0BHQ

I tried these (post 1.3 patch) and I guess I'm not as precise as you are! Unless tiny stick movements were made, the car was incredibly twitchy. Thanks for posting but I doubt these settings will work for the majority of folks using the Xbox one controller.

zzjorzz
16-06-2015, 13:39
You saved my game!

Travman
20-06-2015, 19:58
I'm having a problem with edit assignments in controls I'm trying to change the gear up and down on xbox one controller but wjen I go to change the input I get an error saying. Multiple inputs were detected. No action was a assigned.

Travman
20-06-2015, 20:01
I'm having a problem with edit assignments in controls I'm trying to change the gear up and down on xbox one controller from RB and LB to X and Y but when I go to change the input I get an error saying. "Multiple inputs were detected. No action was a assigned."

nemo06
21-06-2015, 11:30
I'm having a problem with edit assignments in controls I'm trying to change the gear up and down on xbox one controller from RB and LB to X and Y but when I go to change the input I get an error saying. "Multiple inputs were detected. No action was a assigned."

+1

To me said to assign missing commands, but he does not say which ones.

Outlier
25-06-2015, 16:15
DCRS has to be assigned to a button I believe.

paulorod7
25-06-2015, 20:33
Great guide my friend! I just liked it. :D

MajorEpidemic
26-06-2015, 16:17
Hi Guys.

I am hoping someone can help with a controller issue I have. On driving some of the cars I have noticed that they sometimes continue to steer even after I have re-centered the left stick. I then decided to test this further by using a 125 kart on Brands hatch. It makes it really clear that after input on the steering stick (sometimes) the kart continues to turn very gently in the same direction after a turn. I am using the default mode 3 with steering sensitivity reduced to 25 but everything else default. Are there any options that I can change to elevate this problem? I am reluctant to increase the steering deadzone because it will reduce the overall steering input.

Thanks in advance.

mikutzu
27-06-2015, 13:10
For those who like MODE2 (Real assists):

These are my current personal settings based on default MODE2 (you may like it even more than default):


steering sensitivity can be also lowered to 1

@Jaroslav Turna THANK YOU!!! I can finally drive the cars :D (I just fall in love with the Renault Clio Cup) :onthego:

MXR SMILER
09-07-2015, 18:00
I believe the Controller Filtering Sensitivity setting is where you will find your answer - try reducing it to 0 then 50 and 100 to feel the difference then tweak it.
(answer for Majorepidemic)

AdM1
09-07-2015, 20:43
I believe the Controller Filtering Sensitivity setting is where you will find your answer - try reducing it to 0 then 50 and 100 to feel the difference then tweak it.
(answer for Majorepidemic)

I can never really go over 30 with this before it feels like it looses some directness. I leave it at 0, I want every input I make to be registered.

I found over 30 you would tap lightly to correct a slide or to balance the car but it wouldn't register the minuscule tap that was needed.

If it feels too sensitive there is other things you can do to help.

MXR SMILER
10-07-2015, 15:28
I can never really go over 30 with this before it feels like it looses some directness. I leave it at 0, I want every input I make to be registered.

I found over 30 you would tap lightly to correct a slide or to balance the car but it wouldn't register the minuscule tap that was needed.

If it feels too sensitive there is other things you can do to help.

The answer was specific to the question asked - its not about being too sensitive - it was about steering continuing after release of the stick which is as I said an effect of CFS being TOO HIGH and how to remedy the problem stated.

Anach
18-07-2015, 08:39
Wow! I really appreciate this thread; thanks a lot OP! I've been able to turn off steering assist and up my AI difficulty from 60 to 80 with just this tweak alone. I'm sure after a bit more practice I'll be able to turn up the AI more.

Seps1974
18-07-2015, 18:17
Next week I'll go on vacation and will take my X1 with me but not my TX wheel, so I'll be using a controller. Thanks to the OP I will be able to fully enjoy pCARS while on vacation.
So a big thank you to the OP. :encouragement:

Fractured Life
22-07-2015, 15:18
I haven't been able to find this issue yet, but I know others have posted on it somewhere...I done a fresh install of everything for this game to see if it helped stuttering issues etc. But when I went in to load my pad settings again, I can't move in increments of 5. Its using increments of 6 for some reason. So to get 15 I have to go to 100 and come back 84 to get 16 etc etc etc. I haven't noticed if its changed the car handling much, I just don't understand why this has suddenly changed :)

aTTaX Johnson
22-07-2015, 19:25
Hey guys. I just uploaded a small guide about the controller settings. Maybe you want to try them. :)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBbGv0tAaAg

SancholovesTsintao
17-08-2015, 18:51
Great thread for us noobs. I'm going home for lunch today to try this out. I might come back to work.... If they are lucky.

SancholovesTsintao
24-08-2015, 02:11
Great job on this. Tried this, and much easier to handle now. I'm sure as I play more, and fine tune by car, I'll be even more happy. I bumped my AI level up from 40 to 50 to 60 with this fix.

ShneebnaMRR108
26-12-2015, 19:27
Excellent Post! Benefitted greatly from it.
Great job in putting together.

SavyM
03-01-2016, 14:12
I have only had enough time to have a play with the 320 turbo bmw on the Imola track and not even setup any steering refinements as just set my brake settings up.
But already feels like a different game all I can say is thanks for the time and effort in putting this info up..

Urban Chaos 2.0
08-07-2016, 22:50
Below is the official solution to the controller steering:

Controller Input Mode: 3
Steering Sensitivity: 25
Speed Sensitivity: 0
Controller Filtering Sensitivity: 80
Soft Steering Dampening: Off
Visual Wheel Filtering: Off
Opposite Lock Help: Off

With these settings above, the wheel rotates more freely and realistically, and it feels more like a proper steering wheel with the Xbox One controller. It will no longer feel like a twitchy mess. Nor will it feel unresponsive.

Yes, this is the actual fix for all the issues sim-racers have been having with the Xbox One controller.

nemo06
11-07-2016, 08:25
Below is the official solution to the controller steering:

Controller Input Mode: 3
Steering Sensitivity: 25
Speed Sensitivity: 0
Controller Filtering Sensitivity: 80
Soft Steering Dampening: Off
Visual Wheel Filtering: Off
Opposite Lock Help: Off

With these settings above, the wheel rotates more freely and realistically, and it feels more like a proper steering wheel with the Xbox One controller. It will no longer feel like a twitchy mess. Nor will it feel unresponsive.

Yes, this is the actual fix for all the issues sim-racers have been having with the Xbox One controller.

Other parameters to 0 or default?

hpiguy
11-07-2016, 14:14
I picked up the game on the summer sale a few days ago and have tried every controller layout I can find online, including the "official" one listed above. I'm trying to play the game with all assists off except ABS, and currently find it unplayable with a controller. Any time the car gets loose, there is no saving it, it will simply continue the spin, or violently snap the other way and spin anyway. It seems as if the developers simply assumed that cars never break traction, so they didn't bother with any code for the "feel" of the car for when they do. Or perhaps they assumed that everyone would run out and buy a wheel since that's apparently the fix. Either way, it's a shame, because with the amount of tracks and some other elements of the game, I really wanted to like it.

TRL Karthikeyan
11-07-2016, 15:54
I picked up the game on the summer sale a few days ago and have tried every controller layout I can find online, including the "official" one listed above. I'm trying to play the game with all assists off except ABS, and currently find it unplayable with a controller. Any time the car gets loose, there is no saving it, it will simply continue the spin, or violently snap the other way and spin anyway. It seems as if the developers simply assumed that cars never break traction, so they didn't bother with any code for the "feel" of the car for when they do. Or perhaps they assumed that everyone would run out and buy a wheel since that's apparently the fix. Either way, it's a shame, because with the amount of tracks and some other elements of the game, I really wanted to like it.

Here is my settings(on a pad aswell) and i've given them to many people and they have found it much better and smoother than default settings

Steering Deadzone: 0
Steering Sensitivity: 0
Throttle Deadzone: 0 (you want it to represent your input)
Throttle Sensitivity: 30 (stops you spinning)
Braking Deadzone: 0
Braking Sensitivity: 30 (reduces lockups and gives you better control)
Clutch Deadzone: 0
Clutch Sensitivity: 100
Speed Sensitivity: 65 (This vital it to stop high speed twitches)
Controller Filtering Sensitivity: 0 (the higher it is the more input lag which you don't want)

Advanced: Off

controller input mode: 3(set this before other settings)

also if your new to the game then think about adpatping to the car your driving rather than trying to tailor the settings for the car it will make you a better driver. If your still geting used to the game i reccomend driving the lmp3 cars as they are easy to drive and good fun to learn the ropes.

hpiguy
11-07-2016, 16:50
Here is my settings(on a pad aswell) and i've given them to many people and they have found it much better and smoother than default settings

Steering Deadzone: 0
Steering Sensitivity: 0
Throttle Deadzone: 0 (you want it to represent your input)
Throttle Sensitivity: 30 (stops you spinning)
Braking Deadzone: 0
Braking Sensitivity: 30 (reduces lockups and gives you better control)
Clutch Deadzone: 0
Clutch Sensitivity: 100
Speed Sensitivity: 65 (This vital it to stop high speed twitches)
Controller Filtering Sensitivity: 0 (the higher it is the more input lag which you don't want)

Advanced: Off

controller input mode: 3(set this before other settings)

also if your new to the game then think about adpatping to the car your driving rather than trying to tailor the settings for the car it will make you a better driver. If your still geting used to the game i reccomend driving the lmp3 cars as they are easy to drive and good fun to learn the ropes.

I'll give those a shot this evening, as well as the car suggestion, thanks. And, if I understand what you're saying correctly, each car may need some controller tweaking?

NeonFlux
11-07-2016, 17:42
I'll give those a shot this evening, as well as the car suggestion, thanks. And, if I understand what you're saying correctly, each car may need some controller tweaking?

I use the same controller settings for every car/class. My settings are similar to TRL Karthikeyan's except I have a bit of steering deadzone (5 I think).

I felt exactly the same as you when I first started with Pcars and almost gave up but after a couple of weeks things got much better and I finally started to "feel" the car through the controller which helped me to avoid those spins and slides. I am so glad I didn't give up as this game is so rewarding ! I'm still learning and improving now and I've been playing since it was released.

Another thing that helped me was to tune the car with the steering ratio set to slow... may be worth you giving that a go too !

I really hope you decide to stick with it... I promise you won't regret it :)

hpiguy
12-07-2016, 04:22
Well, I played with some of the settings this evening. And it is better, way better, I even managed to log some laps. BUT, it's still not what I want it to be. So I ordered a wheel setup, it'll be here tomorrow. :rolleyes: 90% of my gaming is racing games, and most have good wheel support, so why not.

Bultaco85
27-09-2016, 19:59
So. You, like me, have had problems with the control setup in this game? As with any problem, we must first eliminate all other possibilities...

1. If using a wireless controller, plug it into the Xbox via USB and check if it requires an update. >settings >system >third box down in the left column will tell you what you need to know. Update controller if required.

2. >My games & apps >Games >Project Cars (Start Button) >Manage game. If your game file size is 18.5 GB, you're good. This means the launch day patch has been applied to the game. If not, I'll see you shortly.

3. This will not fix the counter steering lock bug. If it is a huge issue for you, set your 'Steering Deadzone' to 0. This will provide a temporary fix until the (imminent) patch is released, but be warned, this will hamper stability.

With that out of the way, let's get on to configuring your controller. There is no magic fix. We are all different, we all drive differently, we all use the stick differently. I never let go the stick, forever making micro adjustments, even on the straights. Yet I call my brother 'Clicky' because he constantly taps the stick. All the 'perfect' setups I see around the forums, may be perfect for that person, but hopeless to someone else.

What I aim to do here is narrow down the possible iterations for each person, and give you some advice on how I came about my perfect setup. So let's get cracking...

For the purpose of this guide, I suggest you set your assists to the following (oh yes, you are going to be doing some work yourself):

Steering Assist OFF
Braking Assist OFF
Anti-Lock Brakes ON
Stability Control ON
Traction Control ON
Gears YOUR PREFERENCE

I also suggest you set the field of view (FOV) for your preferred camera. For what it's worth, I prefer the helmet cam with the actual helmet removed and a FOV of 72. This allows some peripheral vision, shows all the dials clearly yet doesn't feel like I'm driving from the back seat!

We'll be testing our changes in Free Practice, which is selectable from the main screen. The track we'll use for testing is Imola. Why? It has 3 chicanes with significantly different braking zones, entry/exit speeds. It has a long pit straight with a gentle curve to it. Uphill/ downhill sections. High kerb sections. Off camber corners...in short, it has everything we need to test our set ups. Be sure to set the weather to 'Fixed' and 'Clear'.

Now all we need is a car. We'll be using 3 in total, all untuned. 95% of the work will be done with the BMW 320 Turbo. Why? It's light 1895lbs, powerful 400HP/248ft-lbf, yet balanced 50/50. In short, if your controller works, this car works!

So take it a spin, and see how it goes for you. All 4 tyres should warm up after the first lap (turn from blue to green). Once this happens, the car should be a joy to behold! No? Then we have some more work to do. Once familiar with the car and the track, exit Free Practice and go to the Control Configuration menu.

For the purpose of this guide, first select 'Controller Input Mode 3'. These settings may work on Modes 1&2, but I have not tested this. Also, I shall be ignoring the clutch for now.

THROTTLE
Ok, let's talk 'Deadzones'. A value of '0' gives you trigger response immediately, whereas a value of '100' will give little, if any response until the trigger is fully pressed.
Now, 'Sensitivity'. A value of '0' will make your input more gradual. Whereas a value of '100' will give everything all at once! Therefore...

I see no sense in setting Throttle to anything other than Deadzone 0, Sensitivity 0?! This gives you the full range of play available within the trigger, combined with the most gradual acceleration (if required). IE If a car requires 25% throttle to maintain grip, then you have the ability to apply 25% throttle. Or 50%. Or 100%. It's all available on the trigger.

BRAKE
Similarly, I see no reason for any Deadzone on the brake. You want immediate feel upon application. So again set the Deadzone to '0'.
Sensitivity is a different matter. Remember, a value of '0' will make your input more gradual. Whereas a value of '100' will give everything all at once! Therefore...

If you are completely missing the corner and driving straight ahead - Increase sensitivity by 10%
If you are missing the apex or running a little wide - Increase sensitivity by 5%
If you are hitting braking zones, but falling short of ideal apex - Decrease sensitivity by 5%
If you are locking up, or stopping well short of the corner - Decrease sensitivity by 10%

Continue to adjust Sensitivity settings, and continue testing until you are comfortably hitting most apexes around our track. My brake sensitivity is set at 80%. I come from Forza driving no assists, and am very used to braking late whilst feathering the brakes. Some prefer to really hammer the brakes, and so a much lower setting would be preferred.

STEERING
Steering Deadzone - Now this works a little different. When driving an actual car, if you let go the wheel at speed, it settles back to centre. In order to replicate this in-game, we need to apply a little Steering Deadzone.

Far too little - the wheel will not settle easily and the car will be unstable. Particularly on corner exit.
Perfect - the car turns easily, with the wheel returning to centre on corner exit.
Far too much - the car will become difficult to turn and minor adjustments will become impossible.

My Steering Deadzone is set at 18, and found settings between 10 - 40 to be acceptable. Although 40 looked unusual?!

Steering Sensitivity - Really quite simple this. The current sensitivity is very high. I run this at '0' and would ideally run it at '-10' if I could. I found the car drivable up to a setting of '15', but it wasn't pleasant. Don't despair though, there's a couple more settings to get to which help greatly with steering response..

If you haven't already done so by this point, I suggest you apply these settings and go back to Free Practice to test them. You already know how the BMW handles around Imola (All settings will be as they were, just press 'Start'). You're not looking for a perfect drive...yet. You just want improvement...and here's some pointers:

The slightly curved pit straight is a perfect chance to test your steering deadzone. You should be able to make tiny adjustments, with the wheel always returning to centre when you release the stick.
The first corner (chicane 1) is an ideal spot for testing your hard braking response.
The next set of turns (chicane 2) provides a good spot for testing light braking, as it is a faster chicane, entered at lower speeds.
On exit of the next tight corner leading uphill, you have an ideal chance to test partial throttle response. As full throttle here will likely lead to oversteer (particularly on cold tyres).
Following another hard braking zone at the top of the hill, you're then faced with an off camber high speed turn (which, hopefully when we're done, you can 4 wheel drift around!)
Downhill, then back up again tests everything...including you're driving skills.
Another tight chicane with high kerbs will test your low speed steering response.
The downhill section is useful for testing the 'Speed Sensitivity' setting, which we'll discuss next...

SPEED SENSITIVITY
So what is it? Basically, with this set to '0', and you come tearing down the final hill section of Imola, any minor adjustments you make to the steering will be exaggerated greatly by the time you reach the bottom. Alternatively, if you set it to '100' you're steering input will be so dulled, you'll struggle to change direction at speed.

Now this took a bit of tweaking, but by jumping in 20% increments, then 10%, then 5%, I knew exactly when it felt just right. Between 50-70% appears to be the sweet spot. I was at 65, then changed to 60 after using a faster car. Which we'll get to soon.

CONTROLLER FILTERING SENSITIVITY
Sounds complicated doesn't it? I'm sure it was, but to you and me, it simply applies a filter to every tiny little input you make on the controller. In order to fully appreciate what this does, I suggest you set it to '0' and go for a couple of laps.
100% will not filter all input, but will become somewhat unresponsive. According to WMD Member Gooseone, "Settings up to 85 should still leave some fidelity". I personally found anything over 65% was too obtrusive. With everything else set, it was perfectly drivable at 0%, but it really does feel raw...hard to explain?! I finally settled on 55%, but I think this, more than any other setting is personal preference.

So back to testing. As stated earlier, the final downhill section is your best place to test the Speed Sensitivity.
Controller Filtering Sensitivity (CFS) is probably most noticeable on the pit straight. The minor adjustments required there are very twitchy when CFS is too low. Too high though and you lose feel in the handling.

So that pretty much covers it. Force Feedback really is your own preference. Mine is set at 90, for anyone whose following my own setup. The 'Advanced' settings, I have all switched on. I didn't notice a huge difference with them, once everything else was set, but they did appear to help when correcting a slide or countering oversteer. Basically...if I messed up, it was easier to save with the advanced settings on. Although, again thanks to Gooseone, if you tend to overcorrect, he advises that you turn 'Opposite Lock Help - Off.

If all has gone to plan, you're likely no longer reading this?! You are once again the master of the Tarmac, all that was wrong with the world is right again. I really hope so anyway. But there's a couple more things, to get everything just so...

It's time to discard our beloved Bee-M, and jump into a....cough! BMW Z4 GT3. So why we doing this? It's no good having just one car working with our controller setup, they all need to work. This car is heavier 2744 lbs, faster with more torque 484 HP/364 ft-lbf, yet still balanced 49/50. The tyres are heated right from the get-go. If the 320 turbo was driving beautifully, then this one likely will too, but you may need to tweak 5% here or there on brake balance, or speed sensitivity. Should take no more than a few minutes. When you're all done and setting purple sectors all over the place, I have a little challenge for you...

The Ford Sierra RS500 Cosworth! Remember to let the tyres heat up...

...if this helps even one person enjoy the game like I am now, then, well...I'll be pretty annoyed to be fair cos I've spent ages putting this together...lol. On a serious note though, this game is truly fantastic when it all comes together. To hear of people selling their copies because they can't get the controller to work for them is....at best, bonkers?! At worst, it's just a shame because Project Cars has the potential to be incredible. The racing community helped shape the game, and it's now up to the rest of us to help shape a community that will keep the game relevant for the months and years ahead.

Just came by to thank you for this great post, took 2 seconds off my laptimes and made the game enjoyable.
Funny that you came from playing Forza as myself.

RookieRaceline
11-01-2017, 23:13
Is this still a good guide for setting up the controller, or is it outdated?

Jvotolato
17-02-2017, 06:56
I would like to thank you for posting this and helping me to enjoy this great game. I'll have you know that the only reason I made an account on this site was so that I could specifically respond to this thread so as to thank you for posting it. So thank you

Mowzer
17-02-2017, 09:28
Is this still a good guide for setting up the controller, or is it outdated?

Im not sure how upto date this thread is mate but this thread is new with upto date information ;). Im not using a controller myself anymore so i can't remember my personal settings but i think it was pretty much what this guy has suggested:).
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?49979-*****XBOX-ONE-HANDLING-CONTROLLER-SETTINGS*****

PunchBro
11-05-2017, 22:45
IMPORTANT

The Throttle and Brake sensitivity is WRONG and backwards in that guide. Having a "0" setting for Throttle or Brake Sensitivity will give it full blast immediately. Turn on the Telemetry and check for yourself. If you want FULL CONTROL over your entire braking spectrum with the trigger, set the Sensitivity to "100".

Great guide but I had to clarify that.

Menezes
20-09-2017, 02:59
Thank you very much man! This made my xone pc controller perfect!

This guide is up to date!

ALSO,


IMPORTANT

The Throttle and Brake sensitivity is WRONG and backwards in that guide. Having a "0" setting for Throttle or Brake Sensitivity will give it full blast immediately. Turn on the Telemetry and check for yourself. If you want FULL CONTROL over your entire braking spectrum with the trigger, set the Sensitivity to "100".

Great guide but I had to clarify that.

This came to not be true in my case. The sensitivities were just like in the guide!