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Entropy Nebula
10-05-2015, 19:07
Anyone discovered how to do this yet? Any tips

eracerhead
10-05-2015, 19:14
You just have to map keys in Controls menu

denis74
10-05-2015, 20:30
On Xbox One I've tried it and I can't map a key to gamepad

Entropy Nebula
11-05-2015, 07:14
I've got the bias assigned now to my TX wheel, using the D-Pad etc....

I'm driving the RWD P30 LMP1 and no matter what I do with the brake bias I can't seem to stop the car without the rears locking and pivoting the car round, Using a brake bias of 60% Front 40% Rear, braking pressure approx 80%....I've driven a lot of other racing games and never had this problem before. Is there something inherently unstable in the stock tuning of this car or is there some specific downshifting technique needed? I've tried downshifting really late, early, you name it!

SN1P3R SK33T
11-05-2015, 07:20
I've got the bias assigned now to my TX wheel, using the D-Pad etc....

I'm driving the RWD P30 LMP1 and no matter what I do with the brake bias I can't seem to stop the car without the rears locking and pivoting the car round, Using a brake bias of 60% Front 40% Rear, braking pressure approx 80%....I've driven a lot of other racing games and never had this problem before. Is there something inherently unstable in the stock tuning of this car or is there some specific downshifting technique needed? I've tried downshifting really late, early, you name it!

Could be, if you're using clutch, that the rev's aren't high enough when you're downshifting. Try the heel-toe technique where you rev before releasing the clutch.

Entropy Nebula
11-05-2015, 07:32
Thanks Snipe...

I'm running all the assists off.

I've tried down changing when the engine note is screaming or when I've let the revs die down and neither have worked for me I'm afraid.

SN1P3R SK33T
11-05-2015, 15:41
If you really want to eliminate whether it's your shifting technique, then just try a few laps fully automatic. If the problem persists then it could be that you're hitting the brakes too hard. Just try a few laps slow and squeeze the brake pedal slowly to find that locking point. Could be the brakes are too cold and you're slamming too hard, let the heat build up in them a tiny bit with a soft brake before pushing right down.

itakethepics
11-05-2015, 16:47
I've got the bias assigned now to my TX wheel, using the D-Pad etc....

I'm driving the RWD P30 LMP1 and no matter what I do with the brake bias I can't seem to stop the car without the rears locking and pivoting the car round, Using a brake bias of 60% Front 40% Rear, braking pressure approx 80%....I've driven a lot of other racing games and never had this problem before. Is there something inherently unstable in the stock tuning of this car or is there some specific downshifting technique needed? I've tried downshifting really late, early, you name it!

at 40/60 would that not be why? (Don't shoot me if im wrong) but shouldn't you have a higher brake bias to the front stop stop wheel lock? Though as i type this im also doubting myself.

TwoClick
11-05-2015, 17:45
I've got the bias assigned now to my TX wheel, using the D-Pad etc....

I'm driving the RWD P30 LMP1 and no matter what I do with the brake bias I can't seem to stop the car without the rears locking and pivoting the car round, Using a brake bias of 60% Front 40% Rear, braking pressure approx 80%....I've driven a lot of other racing games and never had this problem before. Is there something inherently unstable in the stock tuning of this car or is there some specific downshifting technique needed? I've tried downshifting really late, early, you name it!

Could be weight transfer due to 60/40 which you can compensate for by increasing slow bump/rebound values.

Benja190782
11-05-2015, 17:46
On Xbox One I've tried it and I can't map a key to gamepad

EXACTLY! Thank god I'm not the only one! I've sent a message to Ian Bell, because I really think we need this done in the next patch!
Both the wheel and controller or keyboard need to be active in-game in Project CARS - It's a MUST on the Xbox One with the lack of buttons!

Please SMS..

Entropy Nebula
11-05-2015, 18:21
Could be weight transfer due to 60/40 which you can compensate for by increasing slow bump/rebound values.

Could be, I'm gonna shift the longitudinal weight balance a little forward, at the mo that's still 50/50.

with the button mapping to increase/decrease brake bias, is there a way to see what value you've moved to in game?

DMR Ghahary21
13-05-2015, 15:54
Does the adjustable brake bias only work with cars that have that "real" option? Say for example a Caterham and the Formula C car. I've tried adjusting with the M1 procar but I can't get confirmation if it works or not.

Darkranger23
01-08-2015, 05:13
I may be late to this thread, but hopefully this will help others in the future.

Your problem may not be brake bias, but rather weight transfer. I'm guessing this is happening on a hard corner after a fast straight. Under heavy breaking, a vehicles weight will transfer to the front. This also means that weight is leaving the back end of the car, reducing traction. If you turn the car at all under these conditions, the rear end will pivot around the front.

To remedy this, brake early and in a straight line before turning. Light trail braking may be used if you have a very skilled application of the brakes and a stable car.

In extremely unstable cars, after breaking, apply enough gas to create a "neutral" speed (neither accelerating, nor decelerating). Just before the apex, apply a small amount of throttle. This will create a weight transfer to the rear (and understeer) maintaining stability throughout the turn.

Understeer tends to be slower, but it's way more stable. There are also some turns that really benefit from this, and can even be taken faster this way. I'm thinking of two turns inparticular on the back half of Leguna Seca.

Edit: if you want to test your brake bias, turn on telemetry, find a long flat straight and get to at least 100 - 150 mph. Brake progressively harder until your tires lose traction. If the front lose traction first, your brake bias is forward. If the rear break loose, your bias is rearward.

If your bias is forward and you're still having issues, attempt the braking steps listed above.

inthebagbud
01-08-2015, 08:40
Edit: if you want to test your brake bias, turn on telemetry, find a long flat straight and get to at least 100 - 150 mph. Brake progressively harder until your tires lose traction. If the front lose traction first, your brake bias is forward. If the rear break loose, your bias is rearward.



how do you recognise loss of traction from the telemetry view?

tux1234
01-08-2015, 08:53
Just make sure the front brakes arent getting too hot, if they are the front brakes will fade and you will have less strength on the front than rear hence why the rears lock.

Also worth noting that if its only happening in a race situation then its hard to prevent because you start the races with the brakes already at peak temperature and the front brakes lose temperature quicker than the rear brakes. Which in turn leads to the rear brakes being strong than the front unless you run alot of Bias. Its something that for me personally i think should be changed in the LMP cars.

FACT0RY PIL0T
01-08-2015, 20:08
Best part about the brakes on the Formula A is when the rears get to about 600 they lock and the fronts are at 900+ and dont lock, brilliant concept there boys and ohh lets not forget theres a lot more tire in the back than the front, so yeah less grip there to than the front.

Dynomight Motorsports
01-08-2015, 20:23
I'm thinking you have to go with a Higher Front bias, because of the KERS braking in the rear. I could be wrong though..

Fast Peregrine
02-08-2015, 00:49
I've gotten so annoyed with the weird braking on this game I just turned ABS on so I don't mess up laps bc of the brakes locking up for no reason. It's not I can't drive without abs, I don't wanna waste time losing good laps bc the brakes gave out in the dumbest parts of a lap.

FACT0RY PIL0T
02-08-2015, 06:48
I'm thinking you have to go with a Higher Front bias, because of the KERS braking in the rear. I could be wrong though..

Well i run more front bias than most setups guys are running out there that ive seen, so who knows but it definatley takes awy from the trail braking aspect of it.

Umer Ahmad
02-08-2015, 08:59
I'm thinking you have to go with a Higher Front bias, because of the KERS braking in the rear. I could be wrong though..
Thats what i had to do, a lot of front bias and some more DECEL diff lock. Now the car doesnt spin/lock at the end of the brake zone. I can race again.

Braken99
02-08-2015, 15:39
Increasing the decel differential helps mekeep the car from rotating to much too. I find im usually lowering it to increase rotation.

redruMKO
09-10-2015, 17:21
Does the adjustable brake bias only work with cars that have that "real" option? Say for example a Caterham and the Formula C car. I've tried adjusting with the M1 procar but I can't get confirmation if it works or not.

Thanks Gharhary21. I bet that's it.

I have been using the red-dial on my G29 like a chump, wondering if I am turning it up rather than down or something.

But I bet you've nailed it. It should really be displaying 'N/A' when I am doing this to the Lotus 49 in game if it is not changing anything.

PTG Baby Cow
09-10-2015, 17:56
Not sure why noone has mentions brake mapping. Add more brake mapping will keep the car from wanting to face the wrong direction under heavy braking. However at the same time it decreases braking efficiency and fuel economy for long races.

Also like others said raise decel a bit should help.

The brakes are a bit tricky in the lmp1, you need to brake heavy but also release the brakes quickly as you slow down. Try releasing the brake sooner.