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mistercooper
12-05-2015, 18:34
hi,

i'm sorry, I'm french and my English is very bad.

the wheels work fine with project cars, the FFB work very well.
but there are no vibrations in the wheels when I take a vibrator in a turn or when I lost the grip of the car.

however, when i play Dirt 2 on PC, the FFB and the vibration work very well!!

for summary, I don't have the vibration like with a DS4 controller on the wheels in Project Car, but all work very well on PC with other games.

Please, you have a solution for this problem?

thank you.

lordymatsuo
12-05-2015, 19:19
I have the same issue with my T100, I haven't played any other racing games with a wheel so I wasn't sure if it was the wheel or the game but it is very odd not to have any vibration through the wheel when under heavy breaking or skidding.

See my post here if you like http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24263-PS4-Problems-using-Thrustmaster-T100-FFB&p=903578#post903578

What games are worth trying on the PC with my T100 so I can see what it's supposed to feel like?

Sebstinator
12-05-2015, 21:56
Hey, try this.

As it is important to plug in your wheel after starting the game, its also important to not leave the game and switch back in. Like looking for trophies or writing messages.
Most likely your FFB will get weird after you go back to pcars. At least it happened to me.

Now some words about my settings. Pictures are in german, but you should be able to figure out which is what...

Pictures are found here (https://app.box.com/s/ha28xa1radotd6n68mfohkf2otyrqnt3).

DSC_0789
- Every setting belongs to your likings, our wheel can handle it, do what you want... ^^

DSC_0790
-I recommend to set "Stoßdämpfer-Setting" to "0" because otherwise it will damp your whole FFB.
- "Force Feedback" must be at "100" its important later on!
- "Gegenlenkhilfe" is just a help to catch oversteering and won't affect FFB at all. It just feels weird if your wheel reacts without you doing anything... So I disabled it.

DSC_0791
- "Reifenkraft" is the main setting to adjust the strongest of your FFB, don't set it to high here, because it affects all cars...
- "Bereich Totzonenentfernung" is the most important setting, as it defines the mechanical deadzone of the wheel... (caused by the construction with gears and rubber bands) I tested mine with the Wheel Check Tool from iracing.com, so your wheels should be mostly identical. Maybe try one step more or less.
Remember, if this setting is wrong, your wheel won't be able to use all the input from the game. This is why Force Feedback must be 100.

DSC_0792
- I just did this because i read it in forum and saw it on insidesimracing and it feels good...


Now the individual car settings:

DSC_0787
"Hauptstärke" this is the main switch where you should calibrate how strong your FFB is.
The others settings defines how strong you feel which kind of force, sideways = X, forward = Y, upwards = Z, as you know it from coordinates system in school...
These settings are just my pre config for every car to start from. It's a good average setting.

DSC_0786
"Lenkerwinkel" is to simulate your arms or something like that...
However, the preset is mostly ok, just some cars are screwed up, so set it as you like it.

DSC_0788
The upper values are there to simulate the G-Forces I think, but i don't like it, so I set it down and use the camera shaking instead.
If its higher, it just distract me from the more important force feedback of the wheels.
The lower settings let you feel the back of your car gets loose if you oversteer, or if you jump.
So its very important to control the car and these settings should work for most of the cars.


Thats it.


I hope this helps you out a little, and it would be nice to get some feedback if you tried it.

lordymatsuo
13-05-2015, 06:51
hey seb, any chance you can upload pictures somewhere we don't need an account to view them?

Flystar
13-05-2015, 07:35
p://m.neogaf.com/showthread.php?t=1041928&page=28

Try that :

"From what I can see but, there are global settings in the main menu, from there you can later the settings further for each car if you need.

There are FFB settings that are only available in the car setup that do not have global equivalents. Specifically the Seat Of Pants (SOP) settings. These are the ones that let you feel the grip of the tires (that many have complained do not exist). Thats because they are defaulted to ZERO on every car, and only available in each car setup, that must be adjusted for each car individually (no global option for these). And then manually save to all tracks for that specific car under separate menus."

Sebstinator
13-05-2015, 09:31
hey seb, any chance you can upload pictures somewhere we don't need an account to view them?

You should not need an account... O.o

But I will upload them somewhere else when I'm home...

mistercooper
13-05-2015, 15:02
thank you very much for your help Sebstinator, my T100 work very well now.

zoph
13-05-2015, 16:29
thank you @Sebstinator i'll try this at home

lordymatsuo
13-05-2015, 18:14
You should not need an account... O.o

But I will upload them somewhere else when I'm home...

Not to worry I managed to get them now, for some reason it was asking me to register when I tried yesterday. Will give your settings a try later tonight :)

lordymatsuo
13-05-2015, 18:18
This is really annoying we have to do this for every car because the default values are so poor. I wouldn't mind having to tweak each car to my own tastes but the defaults should be at least drivable, editing these settings I can now drive quite well but to think I have to do this for 60+ cars is just daunting and frustrating.

Sebstinator
13-05-2015, 18:22
forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22199-thrustmaster-t100-anyone&p=903982&viewfull=1#post903982

Pls can we all use just one thread? It's a mess right now, I forgot to post it here... Sry...

CPS-3
13-05-2015, 18:25
Today I had some problems with the vibrations as well since for the first time in a week. I was editing my FFB settings for some cars and just out of the blue i had no vibrations whatsoever. Put my PS4 into standby and back on, stil the same. PS4 in standby and unplugged the wheel from the power and back in and started the ps4, still the same.
And as last I closed the game and started it again and the problemm was solved. So my last solution should've been my first :)

lmntr
19-06-2015, 16:01
I just received my t100 yesterday and as soon as I unpacked it I noticed the the wheel has a detent feel when turning (unplugged) and thought It will disappear once plugged and in use. Well, the feel still there; It affects obviously when going down the straight even thought the detent feel is light. I went on line and scrutinized the videos of people during reviews and thought I saw it on some but no one ever mentioned. Do I have a defective set or is this how the t100 feels?

Crisis Nine
23-06-2015, 10:36
What do you mean by detent?

lmntr
23-06-2015, 12:59
It is best described as the feel you get when using an automatic transmission car while using the shifter to move through gears. As you do that, you feel a definite position where each gear is and will hold in place. On the t100, as you rotate the wheel, the detent is light but definetly there at about 3/4" in intervals.

Crisis Nine
23-06-2015, 14:25
Ahhh I think I know what you mean. It's like the gears are allowing a small amount of movement or rock between the teech of the gear right? I only notice this when the wheel is straight if I'm honest and I managed to dial it out almost completely by increasing deadzone removal to 0.10. See if that helps.

lmntr
23-06-2015, 14:31
I gather you have this also. Anyone else? It is a pain when driving down the straight at high speed. I like no deadzone settings. I did not have this with my other two force feedback wheels: Logitech Momo and dfgt. Is this condition also present in the upscale t300?

Crisis Nine
23-06-2015, 16:14
Just for clarity, I've got no deadzone on the wheel but 0.10 deadzone removal. My deadzone is set at 0.01. The deadzone removal affects the wheel at speed as I understand it. Regardless of it you have deadzone on the wheel or not. Give it a go and see if it works. If not, back to the drawing board but it certainly eliminated it more or less on my T100.

lmntr
25-06-2015, 15:13
I sent my wheel back; so I will have to try that when I get the replacement. Still, I would assume the setting suggested is to minimize the wander in the straight but nothing for the detent feel. I still say is a manufacturer defect. I was expecting more replies telling me "minde does not do that", so I will have to start a new thread in a few days to get to the bottom of it.

Crisis Nine
26-06-2015, 12:22
Did you try it with any other games? As mine only does this on PCars and not on DriveClub.

lmntr
26-06-2015, 12:49
The detent feel is there even when unplugged.

Crisis Nine
26-06-2015, 14:48
Yeah then I'd say you did the right thing. That's definitely not happening on mine.

lmntr
26-06-2015, 17:35
Yes, that is what I thought. You would think that with over 1000 views, people would be replying loud and clear. The silence is deafening. By the way, the representative at Thrustmaster told me this was "normal". What do you guys say? I will post my video link once I get the replacement.

Mr.Smoke
26-06-2015, 17:41
If i move my wheel very slowly when unplugged i can feel something similar. Ive really gotta do it slowly though. If i move it quicker, it cant be felt.

I feel nothing like you described while im actually playing though.

lmntr
26-06-2015, 17:48
I have a definite feel unplugged and plugged. It is irritating specially when driving straight; I can feel the wheel wanting to hold in place when it hits the detent point, thus not allowing smooth, fine driving corrections. Thanks for your response.

lmntr
30-06-2015, 16:03
I just got my replacement wheel and I must say the detent feel is there but almost imperceptible. It is a lot better than my first wheel. I believe they were overzealous in dialing out play between gears to the point there was radial pressure on the gears. At least I can play now.

Zenzic
03-07-2015, 09:11
Since we're talking problems with T100 here:

When my car is at a standstill and I turn the wheel full lock, the wheels quite forcefully jolts back and forth about one inch by itself, continuously. It stops as soon as I move the wheel away from full lock. FFB telemetry shows nothing out of the ordinary. I've been using Jack's FFB settings since the start but I've only recently started noticing this issue. Sound familiar to anyone? Maybe something to do with patch 1.4?

Crisis Nine
03-07-2015, 11:55
Yeah I've noticed the same thing since 1.4 too. Usually when I've spun out and I'm facing a wall somewhere. But I think it's just a small bug.

Zenzic
03-07-2015, 12:05
Good to know it's not specific to my setup. Thanks for your reply!

Crisis Nine
07-07-2015, 09:25
No worries!

rocafella1978
07-07-2015, 13:31
can someone post or kindly guide me to how to get default settings back or reset (triangle button???) for the global setting in the games main menu area...i moved sliders around but would like to reset those including global FFB and start over? how? are default values posted somewhere?

Zenzic
07-07-2015, 14:16
To reset global FFB values it suffices to reset the wheel to default by pressing triangle in the controls section of the options.

rocafella1978
07-07-2015, 16:48
oh ok that was easy way and explanation, is that in main menu? or in race reset? (garage/ edit setup)?

Mr.Smoke
07-07-2015, 17:25
Instead of creating another thread, i figured i might as well use this one.

Sat down last night to do some racing & noticed that my accelerator pedal on my T100 has become VERY weak. I can push it down about an inch with my finger using almost no pressure at all.

Im wondering if any other T100 users have had this issue?

Ive contacted Thrustmaster and they told me that replacement arent available & likely will not become available again. They instructed me to get a replacement from my point of purchase. So, i called the seller & they informed me that its a manufacturer warranty so i need to deal with Thrustmaster. Neither side wants to take accountability here which isnt really surprising.

Has anyone here ever taken T100 pedals apart? Id like to open them up & have a peek, but im worried i wont get them back together again.

Im still getting 100% throttle according to the telemetry, but trying to feather the throttle with a limp pedal isnt exactly easy. Hope someone can offer some insight here for me.

Sebstinator
07-07-2015, 17:51
You will find one broken spring inside it.
Accelerator pedal is pushed up with two springs, one is broken so that's why you still got a little resistance.
I got the same problem... :(

Fight-Test
07-07-2015, 17:55
smoke, maybe this will help? Different version but might be the same setup inside.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYx4ZyQl2iE

Mr.Smoke
07-07-2015, 22:55
You will find one broken spring inside it.
Accelerator pedal is pushed up with two springs, one is broken so that's why you still got a little resistance.
I got the same problem... :(

Yeah, i figured it would be a setup like the pedals in the video that Fight-Test linked. Makes perfect sense.


smoke, maybe this will help? Different version but might be the same setup inside.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYx4ZyQl2iE

Thanks bud. I actually found that vid earlier when googling for the issue. Somewhat helps, but dont wanna open them up.

I called TM back & talked with a different person who was very helpful. It looks like they will be replacing my entire setup. I need to cut the USB cord & send them a pic of it cut before they ship me a new one, so i will be without a wheel for a little bit :(

Crisis Nine
08-07-2015, 11:23
Man that sucks, but I'm glad they were able to help you out in the end. Really good news. Just shows that sometimes it's always worth calling more than once to see if you get the same answer!

skoader
08-07-2015, 11:36
Hope it all gets sorted Mr.Smoke.

Same thing happened to me not too long ago.

211120

211121

Mr.Smoke
08-07-2015, 17:15
Man that sucks, but I'm glad they were able to help you out in the end. Really good news. Just shows that sometimes it's always worth calling more than once to see if you get the same answer!

Im still waiting on an email from them with instructions on stuff i need to do. The issue isnt quite sorted yet, but i seemed to make some progress yesterday with my second call. My plan is to get it replaced, and then sell the replacement & upgrade to a T300 or G29. Just not sure which one yet.


Hope it all gets sorted Mr.Smoke.

Same thing happened to me not too long ago.

211120

211121

Interesting. Were you able to fix it yourself, or did you get them replaced?

skoader
09-07-2015, 07:18
Interesting. Were you able to fix it yourself, or did you get them replaced?

I chose to fix it myself. I was wholly unimpressed with the internal build quality of the pedal set and had read multiple cases of this happening to others.
So I installed heavier springs throughout, upgrading the brake while I was in there as it used the same torsion springs plus an additional spring for increased resistance.

Also, lots of grease. In my particular case a poor coverage looked to be the root cause of the breakage as at some point the spring had become caught on the pin.

Mr.Smoke
09-07-2015, 09:59
I chose to fix it myself. I was wholly unimpressed with the internal build quality of the pedal set and had read multiple cases of this happening to others.
So I installed heavier springs throughout, upgrading the brake while I was in there as it used the same torsion springs plus an additional spring for increased resistance.

Also, lots of grease. In my particular case a poor coverage looked to be the root cause of the breakage as at some point the spring had become caught on the pin.

Were the pedals difficult to take apart & reassemble?
Where did you source the replacement parts?

Im wondering if its worth getting my entire T100 replaced, or DIY fixing.

Im also considering just upgrading to the T300 and selling the new T100 replacement.

skoader
09-07-2015, 14:11
Getting the cover on and off can be a little tricky as the top is depressing both pedals slightly. So when you remove the screws there is a tendency for the unit to want to fly open. Likewise, getting it back together requires that you depress the pedals a little before the cover will fit into place. An extra set of hands make light work of it, but I managed alone.

Internally, it's a very simple system.

211272
Source - Fix T300 Pedal Deadzone (http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/fix-thrustmaster-pedal-deadzone.106023/)

T100 is exactly the same system. The pedal tooth/pot cog position on my unit were exactly as shown in this photo. (Tooth 1 into slot 4)
The pins seen in the bottom left aren't locked in and with a few small taps on the end of a screw driver can be removed easily.

I've read 2 instances of Thrustmaster sending out replacement parts for this issue. I picked up suitable springs at the local DIY store. I had to get a friend to make up a new pin for me as mine was quite badly damaged.

Hope this helps.

rocafella1978
09-07-2015, 14:39
wow...looking at all this and how many people are having issue, start sending/ spamming Thrustmaster...shame on them! how sad!

rocafella1978
09-07-2015, 22:04
so tested with driveclub today too, works perfect and very smooth all great in DC...so it can only be pCARS related with T100 problems. (since on my PC also smooth)

Xx-Rickdj82-Xx
09-07-2015, 23:16
The springs for my accelerator broke tonight so I need to go buy some replacement springs tomorrow

rocafella1978
10-07-2015, 03:19
The springs for my accelerator broke tonight so I need to go buy some replacement springs tomorrow

thanks sucks! sorry to hear that! keep us posted if you can!

Xx-Rickdj82-Xx
10-07-2015, 14:37
I've had no luck buying new springs I've been to loads of places trying to find them really annoyed that I can't race tonight

Mr.Smoke
14-07-2015, 02:02
Getting the cover on and off can be a little tricky as the top is depressing both pedals slightly. So when you remove the screws there is a tendency for the unit to want to fly open. Likewise, getting it back together requires that you depress the pedals a little before the cover will fit into place. An extra set of hands make light work of it, but I managed alone.

Internally, it's a very simple system.

211272
Source - Fix T300 Pedal Deadzone (http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/fix-thrustmaster-pedal-deadzone.106023/)

T100 is exactly the same system. The pedal tooth/pot cog position on my unit were exactly as shown in this photo. (Tooth 1 into slot 4)
The pins seen in the bottom left aren't locked in and with a few small taps on the end of a screw driver can be removed easily.

I've read 2 instances of Thrustmaster sending out replacement parts for this issue. I picked up suitable springs at the local DIY store. I had to get a friend to make up a new pin for me as mine was quite badly damaged.

Hope this helps.

That helps immensely, thanks. I think im going to attempt opening them and repairing myself, as well as having a whole replacement T100 sent to me. Pull a fast one on them & get two working wheels for the price of one.

rocafella1978
15-07-2015, 13:38
found this today, thought would share (not sure how important it is)

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00160.pdf

Mr.Smoke
16-07-2015, 14:24
So i opened up my pedals last night & fixed them. I wasnt able to source ones like the factory springs so i improvised. I bought a small pack of assorted springs & used two compression springs, small one inside a larger one, and shoved them in the recessed area where the factory springs apply pressure. So after spending $6 one some springs, im back to racing with proper lap times.

Im still having the wheel replaced under warranty & selling the new replacement, then upgrading to the G29.