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Wootball
13-05-2015, 14:54
These are adapted from Jack Spade's PC Tweaker files - basically it's his FFB settings, in a spreadsheet so that console users can enter them into their game and use the same FFB settings as PC users are enjoying. These should work for most/all console supported wheels and should be a good starting point for everyone. Obviously a lot is based on personal preference, so if they don't feel quite right each user can alter them in his/her game however they see fit.

There are six sets of FFB settings within this spreadsheet.

Whatīs the difference between the sets?

1. Classic - classic parameters Fx,Mz,Fy,Fz - but additional SopDiff. bumps/kerbs/road feel from the rear tires, solves phase issues.

2. Fy+SopLateral Mix - side load mix (front/rear) 2/3 + 1/3 by forces not by numbers. FFB feels slightly different but gives more feel what the
rear of the car is doing, all other parameters as Standard.

3. 66% - Featuring Side Load Forces derivated from the Rear. The character of SopLateral leaves Mz more space to breathe, allows about
10% - 13% increased Master Scale and Sop Scale values than in other sets. Entering curves the wheel slightly feels lighter than
usual but compensates with more dynamic, you gain more feel when the tail wants to step out.
In the Fy+SopLateral Mix version Fy (side load front) is dominating, besides the Master Levels this is the main difference.
Note, although different side load mix versions they are following laws of physics, in this case how SMS interprets including
human error (and bugs).

4. Bumps Plus - Based on the Fy+SopLateral Mix version, more Rockīn Roll from bumps and kerbs, clipping not ruled out.

5. Brake Rumble - in game Fx = longitudinal force. Fx is equally cranked up on all cars, itīs a temporary force so it wonīt spoil the core balance. Though cranked up there is just little effect on lots of cars. As reference check the Radicals and the Caterham 500 on Oulton Park.

6. Bumps Plus - Classic - Similar to the Bumps Plus version but based on the Standard-Classic settings.

Download from Google Drive here:

Excel: https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0Bw5ulCOYvLckYUlFOURuX2RRU1U&export=download
PDF: https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0Bw5ulCOYvLckM3pDYnBCVXdkQ2c&export=download

Let me know if there are any problems!

Bobbydakid
13-05-2015, 15:31
Thanks for the links..will try this on my Xbox later. Very interested to see the results.

Rosny
13-05-2015, 21:56
Thank you Wootball for this pdf file and to Jack Spade for these tweaks.

After some heavy testing with these settings on xbox, because of the weak ffb that most of us are experiencing

I would like to suggest to raise every settings by at least 20-30 in order to almost get the same feeling as on pc.

Remember to leave ffb and tyre force at 100

Benja190782
13-05-2015, 22:47
So what if my TX wheel already have very strong FFB and I had to turn FFB down from 100 to 70 - could I still use these settings and feel what the PC users feel?

scgor
13-05-2015, 22:52
Brilliant base tunes excellent, testing now with Gt3. Many thanks

Rosny
13-05-2015, 23:06
So what if my TX wheel already have very strong FFB and I had to turn FFB down from 100 to 70 - could I still use these settings and feel what the PC users feel?

Then i would try them as in the pdf and raised the master scale by small increment. Remember to always have the master scale and SoP scale at the same value

danthemanqc
14-05-2015, 01:52
20-30 of master scale ffb ? Or of all the Fx Fy Fz Mz scale ??

Benja190782
14-05-2015, 06:31
WTF? I don't got "body scale" and body long. scale" under my options? Is this only on PC version or what is wrong??

Jubis
14-05-2015, 07:08
WTF? I don't got "body scale" and body long. scale" under my options? Is this only on PC version or what is wrong??


They are under car force feedback settings. Same page where you fin Sop settings.

Wootball
14-05-2015, 12:54
Mods - can this be stickied like the PS4 one please?

Raven403
14-05-2015, 13:07
WTF? I don't got "body scale" and body long. scale" under my options? Is this only on PC version or what is wrong??

Where you adjust your master scale.....Hit the gas pedal that will Navigate you to the menu to Change SoP scales

Benja190782
14-05-2015, 18:02
I don't know if I like this - I can now feel the kerbs, but I can't catch a slide anymore!
I'm using the Classic setup with a TX wheel and TH8A shifter..

Benja190782
15-05-2015, 20:21
Seriously - can anyone tell me that they like this "classic" setup better than standard setup?

Wootball
16-05-2015, 20:05
Seriously - can anyone tell me that they like this "classic" setup better than standard setup?

Yep, I do.

Mods - can you sticky this please?

nissan4ever
18-05-2015, 19:30
I'll give this a try after work. I'll try both setups for the formula Rookie & see which feels best, then I'll know which one I prefer & possibly tweak from there.

Thanks!

ashasha
18-05-2015, 20:37
The FFB isn't the strongest in the world, but the settings in this translate so well. I can actually feel what the car is doing now and its made the game 100X better for me. I use the settings with the lateral SoP turned up (I think that it's classic). It just feels like I've got really nice power steering rather than just erratic mud or arm breaking jitters.

I still don't think that I can feel weight when breaking, but at least I can tell when I'm losing traction a lot better.

HEF51
19-05-2015, 00:33
The FFB isn't the strongest in the world, but the settings in this translate so well. I can actually feel what the car is doing now and its made the game 100X better for me. I use the settings with the lateral SoP turned up (I think that it's classic). It just feels like I've got really nice power steering rather than just erratic mud or arm breaking jitters.

I still don't think that I can feel weight when breaking, but at least I can tell when I'm losing traction a lot better.

Its like putting a Band-Aid on a 4-inch gash.

itakethepics
19-05-2015, 14:09
Glad i have a spare evening to try all these! Thank you so much, been putting off playing it so much while the FFB errors are fixed.

Dynomight Motorsports
19-05-2015, 15:14
I'm so glad..no Grateful, someone actually put time into this. Many thanks to everyone involved in hashing these out. If SMS had only explained their intentions behind each setting better I think we would all be having immediate success.

nissan4ever
19-05-2015, 16:51
I'm so glad..no Grateful, someone actually put time into this. Many thanks to everyone involved in hashing these out. If SMS had only explained their intentions behind each setting better I think we would all be having immediate success.

I'm extremely grateful as well. Definitely enhanced my experience with Project Cars!

Benja190782
19-05-2015, 19:53
This spread sheet is on point. At first I did a +20 to all settings like the one guy said. Felt good but then I went with +30. Now it's stronger like I like it, but with that detail. Great job!

Did you only +30 the settings in the car setups? Or how is this working?

ashasha
19-05-2015, 21:11
This spread sheet is on point. At first I did a +20 to all settings like the one guy said. Felt good but then I went with +30. Now it's stronger like I like it, but with that detail. Great job!I'm not an expert, but from what I understand the Master levels on each section should basically raise everything for you. I think that the settings below each one as if they were an treble, mid, bass on a stereo where you mix the balance of the tone to get the right response and then turn up the volume (master in this case) to how loud you want it.

So basically what I would try is to plug in the exact settings from the spreadsheet as they are and adjust the master sliders and see if that increases it to where you want it to be without having to go through all of them. Plus when/if they do come out with a patch that fixes it you can just dial those back down and not have to change every setting.

Of course this is just theory based on what I think I know.

FACT0RY PIL0T
20-05-2015, 00:41
Well i have a Tx on xbox, and sometimes my wheel matches the game in formula A and sometimes its too much, i turn the wheel and the game is quicker on the same track? How do you a fine tune the rotation so they match? Im pretty sure theres a bugg in the save menu for the wheel as i keep having to recalibrate, and sometimes that doesnt work.

nissan4ever
20-05-2015, 00:43
Well i have a Tx on xbox, and sometimes my wheel mayches the game in formula A and sometimes it too much, i turn the wheel and the game is quicker oN the same track? How do you a fine tune the rotation so they match? I pretty sure theres a bugg in the save menu for the wheel as i keep having to recalibrate, and sometimes that doesnt work.

I haven't experienced that yet. I'm yet to hop in Formula A as well.

FACT0RY PIL0T
20-05-2015, 01:18
The game needs a rotation scale!!! In my OP for console, cant remeber if PC had in beta

nissan4ever
20-05-2015, 01:29
The game needs a rotation scale!!! In my OP for console, cant remeber if PC had in beta

Just adjust the steering ratio in tuning while in the pits. That's the same thing as DOR.

FACT0RY PIL0T
20-05-2015, 02:39
Just adjust the steering ratio in tuning while in the pits. That's the same thing as DOR.Yeah ok already been doing that but if i go from freeplay to time trial the wheel is completly diffrent so theres obviously something whack that the devs obviously missed in the corrupt saves check, between modes. So basically im stuck on console driving one mode until theres a solution.

nissan4ever
20-05-2015, 02:50
Yeah ok already been doing that but if i go from freeplay to time trial the wheel is completly diffrent so theres obviously something whack that the devs obviously missed in the corrupt saves check, between modes. So basically im stuck on console driving one mode until theres a solution.

I personally haven't experienced that yet. The cars I have did practice with & time trial with behaved the same for me thus far.

michele75 ITA
20-05-2015, 11:05
Possiamo avere i settaggi per TX su Xbox one, possimo capire se dobbimo aumentare i singoli valori +30,quali valori dobbiamo cambiare master,fz ecc.

nissan4ever
20-05-2015, 18:49
I've shared this info with a few friends online. I even told one my settings for 2 cars. He put in the info, drove the car. He fell in love with Project Cars all over again, LOL.

QuBix
20-05-2015, 22:00
Thank you for the setups.

FACT0RY PIL0T
21-05-2015, 12:03
I personally haven't experienced that yet. The cars I have did practice with & time trial with behaved the same for me thus far.

Yeah well its also loosing feedback completly at times when i go from one mode to the next

nissan4ever
21-05-2015, 14:35
Yeah well its also loosing feedback completly at times when i go from one mode to the next

Usually hitting silver Xbox button on the wheel to the console dashboard & going back to the game fixes it (or on dashboard hit silver Xbox button again like you want to cut off console but hit cancel & go back to game). If that doesn't work, you have to unplug wheel (usb 1st then power cord). Then plug back up (power cord 1st then usb). Make sure you fully press down your brake pedal for 3 seconds, then release. Then gas pedal the same & clutch the same. Do them all seperate. That makes sure they are correctly calibrated.

nissan4ever
21-05-2015, 17:18
This makes perfect sense & I'll give this a go, after work. 203891

Carson79
21-05-2015, 17:49
Awesome!

The Johnx
21-05-2015, 18:46
Thanks for posting these files.

I can't see setting 1 in part 1: changing force feedback from 75 to 100. Where is this? I presume it's on the same screen as Tire Force but I can't see it.

nissan4ever
21-05-2015, 23:01
Thanks for posting these files.

I can't see setting 1 in part 1: changing force feedback from 75 to 100. Where is this? I presume it's on the same screen as Tire Force but I can't see it.

That should be under Options & Help < Controls < Configuration. Scroll down to get to FFB.

GRTfast
22-05-2015, 03:32
I want to thank the individual who took the time to put this guide together. I have been experimenting on my own with wheel settings for my TX, but I tried these tonight and wow, what a difference. The only changes I made were to set the tire force to 150, and set the dead zone removal to the first notch which I think is 0.10. This gives a bit of resistance right around the center point, but not enough to cause any weird oscillation.

I just set the 5th fastest time at greenwood in a 250 kart, and 9th fastest at Sonoma GP in a formula A. Both times were within 5 laps of starting.

I used to race shifterkarts professionally, and I've been a forza junkie for years. This game is head and shoulders better than any sim I've tried. I'm stoked.

tripglaze2
22-05-2015, 16:24
Hello fellow Thrustmaster TX wheel users. After trying several of my own tests and the ones listed here for setting up the wheel to be able to at least drive all the cars, I have come up with a solution that has worked for every car I set it on so far. Start by making sure your TX wheel is set at 900 DOR at the Thrustmaster website when you load or update your firmware. Load Project Cars on the console and make sure the start screen comes up. Start the game. This is going to be a very detailed post, bear with me. Go to Options/Help and calibrate the wheel. Follow the instructions and rotate the wheel either counter clockwise or clockwise and make sure you go to 100. You may have to pull the wheel more to get there. Hit next or save and rotate the wheel clockwise till it reads 900. Let go of the wheel and make sure it stays at 900 then hit the A button to save it. Now for the fun stuff. Many of you posting on the boards have been complaining about the game itself or the TX wheel. Neither one is the problem, it's how you set the feedback and response up initially that is the issue. Go to gameplay settings and do the following:

Steering Deadzone 0
Steering sensitivity 100
Throttle Deadzone 0
Throttle Sensitivity 100
Brake Deadzone 0
Brake Sensitivity 100
Clutch Deadzone 0
Clutch Sensitivity 50-100

Speed Sensitivity 0
Controller Filtering 0
Damper Saturation 0
Force Feedback 100
Controller Mode 3
Advance Off - start by turning this on and change the follow, then turn it off to lock them in place
Soft Steering Dampering ON
Visual Wheel Filtering ON
Opposite Lock Help OFF

Now adjust these settings:

Tire Force 200
Per Wheel Movement 0
Per Wheel Movement Squared 0
Wheel Position Smoothing 0
Deadzone Removal Range 0
Deadzone Removal Falloff 0

Linkage Scale 0
Linkage Stiffness 1.00
Linkage Dampering 1.00
Relative adjust gain 1.08
Relative adjust bleed 0.10
Relative adjust clamp 0.96
Scoop knee 0.90
Scoop reduction 0.15
Soft clipping half output 0.00 - do not move from zero, you will never get it back unless you start all over
Soft clipping full output 0.00

Save and exit out and go to your garage. Start by selecting the series of car you want to use whether it is GT, Prototype, ect. Next select the car manufacturer you want to test whether it be BMW, RUF, ect. Now, create a new setup. The base setups for the cars are great and most of us are in no way professional drivers in real life, but want to be able to drive these cars with the TX wheel. The only thing you should change on the 1st page is the Traction Control Slip. Move this up 5% if the car is stepping out on you. Tab over to set the force feedback master scale and do the following:

Master Scale 80
Fx Scale 100.01 default setting
Fy Scale 40.00
Fz Scale 0.01
Mz Scale 0.01

Fx Smoothing 20-30
Fy Smoothing 0.0
Fz Smoothing 200.0
Mz Smoothing 200.0

Arm Angle - Increase this by 500 - 800. Some of the cars have a negative value, just use the D pad and right click 5 - 8 times.

Start by saving this to 1 track that you like. I enjoyed it so much that I saved it to every track automatically. My test track was Brands Hatch GP in the great country of the U.K. So much more fun now that the wheel stays put in the straights and holds in the turns. I am in no way the fastest, but wanted to be able to drive the cars and the tracks with the TX wheel. Some of you may have issues with these perimeter settings, but you can do 1 of 2 things:

1. MAN UP and drive the cars like you stole them OR
2. Wimp out and reduce the master scale down to a weaker level - your call

The only assist I have on is the ABS and I may turn that off as well.

Have fun and remember - it's just a game.

slux francois
23-05-2015, 09:13
These are adapted from Jack Spade's PC Tweaker files - basically it's his FFB settings, in a spreadsheet so that console users can enter them into their game and use the same FFB settings as PC users are enjoying. These should work for most/all console supported wheels and should be a good starting point for everyone. Obviously a lot is based on personal preference, so if they don't feel quite right each user can alter them in his/her game however they see fit.

There are two sets of FFB settings within this spreadsheet.

Whatīs the difference between the sets?

1. Classic - classic parameters Fx,Mz,Fy,Fz - but additional SopDiff. bumps/kerbs/road feel from the rear tires, solves phase issues.

2. Fy+SopLateral Mix - side load mix (front/rear) 2/3 + 1/3 by forces not by numbers. FFB feels slightly different but gives more feel what the
rear of the car is doing, all other parameters as Standard.

Download from Google Drive here:

Excel: https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0Bw5ulCOYvLckYUlFOURuX2RRU1U&export=download
PDF: https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0Bw5ulCOYvLckM3pDYnBCVXdkQ2c&export=download

Let me know if there are any problems!
avez vous une version pdf ou excel en Franįais?

Jack Spade
23-05-2015, 15:39
Jack Spade here to clarify my settings

First and foremost the core of the settings or ratio of forces in all version are conform the laws of physics, SMS physics to be precise,
they correctly mirror the carīs situation on the FFB wheel. Mz, Fx etc. is not some sort of game dialect itīs RW universal physical term, so the
settings work on any type of wheel.

The different versions are based on different side load mixes (front/rear) at this point they are a matter of taste rather than wrong or
right. All cars are optimized and in the same ballpark at global FFB=100 and Tire Force=100 actually this already is very close to the limit.

I sometimes read of people suggesting ridiculous Tire Fore levels of 150 or even 200. This is turning any wheel into a clipping monster of zero
dynamic. Your G25/27 will never become something like a CSW v2 so I advice everybody owning a weaker type of wheel to be realistic about it.
The wheel preset menus offer better means to deal with your type of wheel than just increasing Tire Force to absurd levels, suggestions are
already posted in this forum or follow the link in my signature.

GRTfast
23-05-2015, 16:24
Jack Spade here to clarify my settings

First and foremost the core of the settings or ratio of forces in all version are conform the laws of physics, SMS physics to be precise,
they correctly mirror the carīs situation on the FFB wheel. Mz, Fx etc. is not some sort of game dialect itīs RW universal physical term, so the
settings work on any type of wheel.

The different versions are based on different side load mixes (front/rear) at this point they are a matter of taste rather than wrong or
right. All cars are optimized and in the same ballpark at global FFB=100 and Tire Force=100 actually this already is very close to the limit.

I sometimes read of people suggesting ridiculous Tire Fore levels of 150 or even 200. This is turning any wheel into a clipping monster of zero
dynamic. Your G25/27 will never become something like a CSW v2 so I advice everybody owning a weaker type of wheel to be realistic about it.
The wheel preset menus offer better means to deal with your type of wheel than just increasing Tire Force to absurd levels, suggestions are
already posted in this forum or follow the link in my signature.

As a mechanical engineer and a former professional racer, I can understand what you're saying, however, if I set my tire force below 120 using your settings, my TX wheel has virtually zero resistance. I beleive that the increased tire force setting is necessary to compensate for the issue currently being experienced by thrustmaster users. I have yet to experiment with setting the tire force at 100 and upping the master scale for the individual vehicle. Would you suggest this as an alternative? I'm just looking for the best overall feeling. What I have now is pretty good, actually the best I've felt in a game. Any feedback (pun intended) is appreciated.

Jack Spade
23-05-2015, 17:45
As a mechanical engineer and a former professional racer, I can understand what you're saying, however, if I set my tire force below 120 using your settings, my TX wheel has virtually zero resistance. I beleive that the increased tire force setting is necessary to compensate for the issue currently being experienced by thrustmaster users. I have yet to experiment with setting the tire force at 100 and upping the master scale for the individual vehicle. Would you suggest this as an alternative? I'm just looking for the best overall feeling. What I have now is pretty good, actually the best I've felt in a game. Any feedback (pun intended) is appreciated.

Increasing Tire Force or per car Master Scale and Sop Scale actually makes no difference cause the result is just the same only difference TF is a global parameter. Watch the FFB monitor, if you see
a flat line at the top and bottom or the tops are cut off the kerbs signals thatīs clipping and the end of dynamic range. The more you add to it the more you get a spring sort thing instead of dynamic FFB.
I know it doesnīt help you much but with suggested settings my CSW v2 feels really strong. Here is a global setting you could try for your type of wheel.

Relative Adjust Gain = 1.20
Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp = 1.00

Soft Clipping (Half Input) = 1.39 (or more compression 0.90-1.20)
Soft Clipping (Full Output) = 1.20 (1.30, 1.40)

GRTfast
23-05-2015, 20:09
That makes perfect sense. Where is the FFB monitor?

Bobbydakid
23-05-2015, 20:37
That makes perfect sense. Where is the FFB monitor?

When you have the full HUD up you will see the ffb monitor on the top left, it is a yellow horizontal line.

GRTfast
23-05-2015, 23:34
So with the settings suggested by jack, it doesn't clip, but I can steer the car with my pinky finger. There is almost no detectable FFB. If I up the tire scale to 120, the wheel still feels weak, but is at least usable. The graph shows clipping, but not that bad. I'm guessing there must be some issue with the game's signal to the wheel. What it seems like is that the only real significant FFB we're feeling on the thrustmaster wheels with the Xbox one is the clipping. The dynamic resistance is basically just not there.

Jack Spade
24-05-2015, 05:33
So with the settings suggested by jack, it doesn't clip, but I can steer the car with my pinky finger. There is almost no detectable FFB. If I up the tire scale to 120, the wheel still feels weak, but is at least usable. The graph shows clipping, but not that bad. I'm guessing there must be some issue with the game's signal to the wheel. What it seems like is that the only real significant FFB we're feeling on the thrustmaster wheels with the Xbox one is the clipping. The dynamic resistance is basically just not there.

There is nothing wrong on the FFB signal the game calculates probably a driver-FW-console issue sort of thing. The FFB levels Iīm suggesting the wheels should feel strong, can be verified on
the FFB monitor.

The Johnx
24-05-2015, 07:09
There is nothing wrong on the FFB signal the game calculates probably a driver-FW-console issue sort of thing. The FFB levels Iīm suggesting the wheels should feel strong, can be verified on
the FFB monitor.

Everything you say makes sense but what I don't understand is why TX users (such as myself) are left with such weak FFB.

Your settings made a major difference to my handling ability (lap times went down significantly) but as with GRTfast, the steering resistance and FFB is still extremely (i.e. overly) light.

I presume that as your CSW v2 has strong FFB that a software fix will be needed for TX wheels?

Jack Spade
24-05-2015, 08:29
Everything you say makes sense but what I don't understand is why TX users (such as myself) are left with such weak FFB.

Your settings made a major difference to my handling ability (lap times went down significantly) but as with GRTfast, the steering resistance and FFB is still extremely (i.e. overly) light.

I presume that as your CSW v2 has strong FFB that a software fix will be needed for TX wheels?

As Iīm on PC+CSWv2 Iīm not aware of game-certain wheel-console issues, AFAIK SMS is working on issues reported by console users.

GRTfast
24-05-2015, 11:39
There is nothing wrong on the FFB signal the game calculates probably a driver-FW-console issue sort of thing. The FFB levels Iīm suggesting the wheels should feel strong, can be verified on
the FFB monitor.

Gotcha. That makes sense. Hopefully they will fix it. It is at least playable, but I'm sure we aren't getting the full experience. Thanks for your help and input.

stux
24-05-2015, 14:46
Gotcha. That makes sense. Hopefully they will fix it. It is at least playable, but I'm sure we aren't getting the full experience. Thanks for your help and input.

A number of users with both pc and Xbox versions of pcars have confirmed that the FFB from the pc version is significantly stronger than the xb1 version with the same tx wheel. The devs have confirmed this as an issue.

raptor unit
26-05-2015, 20:47
Im finding the settings in the OP to be alot better and enjoying the game more than i previously was.

ashasha
26-05-2015, 23:17
I had a nice 3 day weekend and spent much of it trying to dial in one car with FFB to really learn how the system works. I started out with everything turned down and then bring one setting up, try it out, bring it back down and do the next setting. Some of the settings are not very intense, but they are important.

So after hours upon hours of tweaking (and a hell of a lot of racing) I got a pretty good setup although I think that I had some clipping at points. I saved it and went back to the spreadsheet to see how close I was.....extremely close for that particular car. I went ahead and changed the settings that were different and low and behold the clipping was gone and it felt great.

My point is that I am not going to bother doing that ever again and will just use the spreadsheet. If I do feel compelled to tweak anything I am pretty sure that it's going to be Mz and SoP because those seem to have the most impact on the feel of the car (i.e., weightiness).

I'd just like to thank Mr Jack Spade for taking the time to do this and for sharing it. It's literally a game changer.

Jack Spade
27-05-2015, 16:36
Here is something to complete the settings of the spreadsheet.

Supporting Consumer Type of "Lofi" Wheels - Global FFB Settings Suggestions (G25/27, TM T300, Fanatec GT3 RS, DFGT etc.)

To develop the following settings I abused the "For" parameter on the CSW v2 to "pseudo simulate" the weakness of a lofi
consumer type of wheel. I know itīs not the real thing however you should try the following settings. Heavy compression
settings on a CSW v2 causes dynamic to suffer and effects smoothing out.

From left to right (A - D) - heavy compression ----> moderate compression - based on FFB = 100, Tire Force = 100

Relative Adjust Gain-----(A) 1.30 - (B) 1.20 - (C) 1.15 - (D) 1.10
Relative Adjust Bleed--------0.10 ------ 0.10 ------0.10 ------0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp ------1.15 ------ 1.10 ------1.03 ------0.95

Soft Clip (Half Input)---------0.50 ----- 0.80 ------1.10 ------1.29
Soft Clip (Full Output)--------1.39 ----- 1.29 ------1.20 ------1.10

Wheel too strong now? -> INCREASE Soft Clip (Full Output)...what? yes thatīs right, BTW reduces clipping too.

Note, UI bug!
Value Soft Clipping (Half Input) back to 0.00, the value resets back to 0.10 after saving the change. Controller reset is
the only way to get it back to 0.00.

GRTfast
27-05-2015, 18:13
Nice!! Thanks Jack.

Benja190782
28-05-2015, 18:26
@Jack Spade: which one do you prefer? Could you combine 66% with bumps?

Scouseknight
28-05-2015, 21:32
Hello fellow Thrustmaster TX wheel users. After trying several of my own tests and the ones listed here for setting up the wheel to be able to at least drive all the cars, I have come up with a solution that has worked for every car I set it on so far. Start by making sure your TX wheel is set at 900 DOR at the Thrustmaster website when you load or update your firmware. Load Project Cars on the console and make sure the start screen comes up. Start the game. This is going to be a very detailed post, bear with me. Go to Options/Help and calibrate the wheel. Follow the instructions and rotate the wheel either counter clockwise or clockwise and make sure you go to 100. You may have to pull the wheel more to get there. Hit next or save and rotate the wheel clockwise till it reads 900. Let go of the wheel and make sure it stays at 900 then hit the A button to save it. Now for the fun stuff. Many of you posting on the boards have been complaining about the game itself or the TX wheel. Neither one is the problem, it's how you set the feedback and response up initially that is the issue. Go to gameplay settings and do the following:

Steering Deadzone 0
Steering sensitivity 100
Throttle Deadzone 0
Throttle Sensitivity 100
Brake Deadzone 0
Brake Sensitivity 100
Clutch Deadzone 0
Clutch Sensitivity 50-100

Speed Sensitivity 0
Controller Filtering 0
Damper Saturation 0
Force Feedback 100
Controller Mode 3
Advance Off - start by turning this on and change the follow, then turn it off to lock them in place
Soft Steering Dampering ON
Visual Wheel Filtering ON
Opposite Lock Help OFF

Now adjust these settings:

Tire Force 200
Per Wheel Movement 0
Per Wheel Movement Squared 0
Wheel Position Smoothing 0
Deadzone Removal Range 0
Deadzone Removal Falloff 0

Linkage Scale 0
Linkage Stiffness 1.00
Linkage Dampering 1.00
Relative adjust gain 1.08
Relative adjust bleed 0.10
Relative adjust clamp 0.96
Scoop knee 0.90
Scoop reduction 0.15
Soft clipping half output 0.00 - do not move from zero, you will never get it back unless you start all over
Soft clipping full output 0.00

Save and exit out and go to your garage. Start by selecting the series of car you want to use whether it is GT, Prototype, ect. Next select the car manufacturer you want to test whether it be BMW, RUF, ect. Now, create a new setup. The base setups for the cars are great and most of us are in no way professional drivers in real life, but want to be able to drive these cars with the TX wheel. The only thing you should change on the 1st page is the Traction Control Slip. Move this up 5% if the car is stepping out on you. Tab over to set the force feedback master scale and do the following:

Master Scale 80
Fx Scale 100.01 default setting
Fy Scale 40.00
Fz Scale 0.01
Mz Scale 0.01

Fx Smoothing 20-30
Fy Smoothing 0.0
Fz Smoothing 200.0
Mz Smoothing 200.0

Arm Angle - Increase this by 500 - 800. Some of the cars have a negative value, just use the D pad and right click 5 - 8 times.

Start by saving this to 1 track that you like. I enjoyed it so much that I saved it to every track automatically. My test track was Brands Hatch GP in the great country of the U.K. So much more fun now that the wheel stays put in the straights and holds in the turns. I am in no way the fastest, but wanted to be able to drive the cars and the tracks with the TX wheel. Some of you may have issues with these perimeter settings, but you can do 1 of 2 things:

1. MAN UP and drive the cars like you stole them OR
2. Wimp out and reduce the master scale down to a weaker level - your call

The only assist I have on is the ABS and I may turn that off as well.

Have fun and remember - it's just a game.

I like these settings I've just tried them and the wheel definitely feels a lot more responsive - thanks for taking the time so share this.

STEELJOCKEY
29-05-2015, 02:43
Here is something to complete the settings of the spreadsheet.

Supporting Consumer Type of "Lofi" Wheels - Global FFB Settings Suggestions (G25/27, TM T300, Fanatec GT3 RS, DFGT etc.)

To develop the following settings I abused the "For" parameter on the CSW v2 to "pseudo simulate" the weakness of a lofi
consumer type of wheel. I know itīs not the real thing however you should try the following settings. Heavy compression
settings on a CSW v2 causes dynamic to suffer and effects smoothing out.

From left to right (A - D) - heavy compression ----> moderate compression - based on FFB = 100, Tire Force = 100

Relative Adjust Gain-----(A) 1.30 - (B) 1.20 - (C) 1.15 - (D) 1.10
Relative Adjust Bleed--------0.10 ------ 0.10 ------0.10 ------0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp ------1.15 ------ 1.10 ------1.03 ------0.95

Soft Clip (Half Input)---------0.50 ----- 0.80 ------1.10 ------1.29
Soft Clip (Full Output)--------1.39 ----- 1.29 ------1.20 ------1.10

Wheel too strong now? -> INCREASE Soft Clip (Full Output)...what? yes thatīs right, BTW reduces clipping too.

Note, UI bug!
Value Soft Clipping (Half Input) back to 0.00, the value resets back to 0.10 after saving the change. Controller reset is
the only way to get it back to 0.00.

Great settings Jack, between the classic settings and these adjustments I'm starting to get some feeling, not quite Forza 5 strength yet, but getting there. Your time to test and post up these settings is much appreciated.

Two things I'm looking to improve, is stronger feed force feedback so I can start to feel the front end lose traction like I could in Forza, and how to greatly reduce wheel rotation. Winding the wheel 270 degrees just to get around a corner is proving frustrating, when I used to only turn 90 degrees in my previous racing game, setting the wheel up for 360 degrees rotation in its menu. Any tips on these?

GRTfast
29-05-2015, 02:51
Great settings Jack, between the classic settings and these adjustments I'm starting to get some feeling, not quite Forza 5 strength yet, but getting there. Your time to test and post up these settings is much appreciated.

Two things I'm looking to improve, is stronger feed force feedback so I can start to feel the front end lose traction like I could in Forza, and how to greatly reduce wheel rotation. Winding the wheel 270 degrees just to get around a corner is proving frustrating, when I used to only turn 90 degrees in my previous racing game, setting the wheel up for 360 degrees rotation in its menu. Any tips on these?
You can adjust the the steering ratio for each car in the car setup.

STEELJOCKEY
29-05-2015, 03:47
You can adjust the the steering ratio for each car in the car setup.

Thanks, tried that and still can't get a low enough angle of rotation on the wheel.

However changed the wheel controller sensitivity to 100 and turned soft steering damping off and finding this is giving me more strength and better response. Getting closer

RoccoTTS
30-05-2015, 11:31
Here is something to complete the settings of the spreadsheet.

Supporting Consumer Type of "Lofi" Wheels - Global FFB Settings Suggestions (G25/27, TM T300, Fanatec GT3 RS, DFGT etc.)

To develop the following settings I abused the "For" parameter on the CSW v2 to "pseudo simulate" the weakness of a lofi
consumer type of wheel. I know itīs not the real thing however you should try the following settings. Heavy compression
settings on a CSW v2 causes dynamic to suffer and effects smoothing out.

From left to right (A - D) - heavy compression ----> moderate compression - based on FFB = 100, Tire Force = 100

Relative Adjust Gain-----(A) 1.30 - (B) 1.20 - (C) 1.15 - (D) 1.10
Relative Adjust Bleed--------0.10 ------ 0.10 ------0.10 ------0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp ------1.15 ------ 1.10 ------1.03 ------0.95

Soft Clip (Half Input)---------0.50 ----- 0.80 ------1.10 ------1.29
Soft Clip (Full Output)--------1.39 ----- 1.29 ------1.20 ------1.10

Wheel too strong now? -> INCREASE Soft Clip (Full Output)...what? yes thatīs right, BTW reduces clipping too.

Note, UI bug!
Value Soft Clipping (Half Input) back to 0.00, the value resets back to 0.10 after saving the change. Controller reset is
the only way to get it back to 0.00.

Nice settings, these helped me a lot.

ashasha
30-05-2015, 13:52
Here is something to complete the settings of the spreadsheet.

Supporting Consumer Type of "Lofi" Wheels - Global FFB Settings Suggestions (G25/27, TM T300, Fanatec GT3 RS, DFGT etc.)

To develop the following settings I abused the "For" parameter on the CSW v2 to "pseudo simulate" the weakness of a lofi
consumer type of wheel. I know itīs not the real thing however you should try the following settings. Heavy compression
settings on a CSW v2 causes dynamic to suffer and effects smoothing out.

From left to right (A - D) - heavy compression ----> moderate compression - based on FFB = 100, Tire Force = 100

Relative Adjust Gain-----(A) 1.30 - (B) 1.20 - (C) 1.15 - (D) 1.10
Relative Adjust Bleed--------0.10 ------ 0.10 ------0.10 ------0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp ------1.15 ------ 1.10 ------1.03 ------0.95

Soft Clip (Half Input)---------0.50 ----- 0.80 ------1.10 ------1.29
Soft Clip (Full Output)--------1.39 ----- 1.29 ------1.20 ------1.10

Wheel too strong now? -> INCREASE Soft Clip (Full Output)...what? yes thatīs right, BTW reduces clipping too.

Note, UI bug!
Value Soft Clipping (Half Input) back to 0.00, the value resets back to 0.10 after saving the change. Controller reset is
the only way to get it back to 0.00.
I was trying to explain to someone the other night that when tweaking the FFB that more does not always translate to better, but this definitely shows that very small changes can have massive impacts. And the timing was perfect as I had just started reading the FFB Topology PDF on this and between reading that and looking at this I almost started to understand what the hell I was doing.....almost I tell you. ;)

Jack Spade
30-05-2015, 16:44
I was trying to explain to someone the other night that when tweaking the FFB that more does not always translate to better, but this definitely shows that very small changes can have massive impacts. And the timing was perfect as I had just started reading the FFB Topology PDF on this and between reading that and looking at this I almost started to understand what the hell I was doing.....almost I tell you. ;)

Iīm curious please tell me.

Dynomight Motorsports
30-05-2015, 17:15
Right now Im using the Classic Settings with 200 tire force, and NO +20 or +30 in numbers and the car feels great with a TX wheel. Im not setting the world on fire or anything but I'm running 2:01.889 in a slightly tuned BMW GT3 Z4 at Silverstone.

RoccoTTS
30-05-2015, 17:58
Right now Im using the Classic Settings with 200 tire force, and NO +20 or +30 in numbers and the car feels great with a TX wheel. Im not setting the world on fire or anything but I'm running 2:01.889 in a slightly tuned BMW GT3 Z4 at Silverstone.

This is what i was using till today, i did some testing on the ffb settings (again) and for the first time i found good and strong ffb without pulling the tire ffb to 200.
These are my settings :

Tire Force 100
Per Wheel Movement 0
Per Wheel Movement Squared 0
Wheel Position Smoothing 0.04
Deadzone Removal Range 0
Deadzone Removal Falloff 0.01

Linkage Scale 0
Linkage Stiffness 1.00
Linkage Damping 1.00
Relative adjust gain 1.22
Relative adjust bleed 0.10
Relative adjust clamp 1.04
Scoop knee 0.70
Scoop reduction 0.15
Soft clipping half output 1.50
Soft clipping full output 0.50 These 2 are the most important settings to compensate the weak tx-wheel.

These are the ffb settings in main menu. I combine these with the Jack Spade's classic settings but you can also combine these with the standard settings per car.

Bobbydakid
30-05-2015, 18:40
This is what i was using till today, i did some testing on the ffb settings (again) and for the first time i found good and strong ffb without pulling the tire ffb to 200.
These are my settings :

Tire Force 100
Per Wheel Movement 0
Per Wheel Movement Squared 0
Wheel Position Smoothing 0.04
Deadzone Removal Range 0
Deadzone Removal Falloff 0.01

Linkage Scale 0
Linkage Stiffness 1.00
Linkage Damping 1.00
Relative adjust gain 1.22
Relative adjust bleed 0.10
Relative adjust clamp 1.04
Scoop knee 0.70
Scoop reduction 0.15
Soft clipping half output 1.50
Soft clipping full output 0.50 These 2 are the most important settings to compensate the weak tx-wheel.

These are the ffb settings in main menu. I combine these with the Jack Spade's classic settings but you can also combine these with the standard settings per car.

Have just tried these settings and wow...what a difference. I'm certainly getting much better force feedback now, before I had my tyre force at 190 but your settings I can have it at 100 and it feels just about right.

ashasha
30-05-2015, 22:35
Iīm curious please tell me.
Which part? The part that I almost feel like I know what I'm doing or that more isn't better?

Dynomight Motorsports
31-05-2015, 01:44
Thanks I'll try that Rocco.

Jack Spade
31-05-2015, 05:57
Which part? The part that I almost feel like I know what I'm doing or that more isn't better?

Whatever....

ashasha
01-06-2015, 02:24
Whatever....I'm legitimately asking you. I feel like I'm getting a lot better at this stuff, but I have a lot of learning to do.

Let me explain what I mean by "more isn't better". When something isn't feeling right the first thing that people do is go in and start turning things up to higher levels. I know that I did it and it sucked.

Looking at your spreadsheet the first thing that stands out is that almost every parameter is lower than default (except for SoP). This works fantastic. It creates a balance where you can feel the effects rather than just end up clipping or everything just feels like mud.

That's what I meant by "more isn't better."

Jack Spade
01-06-2015, 05:44
I'm legitimately asking you. I feel like I'm getting a lot better at this stuff, but I have a lot of learning to do.

Let me explain what I mean by "more isn't better". When something isn't feeling right the first thing that people do is go in and start turning things up to higher levels. I know that I did it and it sucked.

Looking at your spreadsheet the first thing that stands out is that almost every parameter is lower than default (except for SoP). This works fantastic. It creates a balance where you can feel the effects rather than just end up clipping or everything just feels like mud.

That's what I meant by "more isn't better."

I follow this course wherever possible.

ARusling
01-06-2015, 17:30
I've finally reached a point where the handling of the cars feels good (again, thanks 1.3 patch) - but I have one serious problem that is making this completely unenjoyable for me. Steering input. What setting do I need to change to make the cars require less steering input? At the moment tight corners and chicanes are near-impossible for me to navigate at speed.

Neutreus
01-06-2015, 17:33
I just wanted to add my thanks to Jack Spade, Wootball and the other contributors on here. These settings have made the world of difference to me and the TX wheel I use. Cars that were until now a massive handful (particularly in the rain), I can now attack corners with and really chase those lap times. Thank you guys!

GRTfast
01-06-2015, 19:54
I've finally reached a point where the handling of the cars feels good (again, thanks 1.3 patch) - but I have one serious problem that is making this completely unenjoyable for me. Steering input. What setting do I need to change to make the cars require less steering input? At the moment tight corners and chicanes are near-impossible for me to navigate at speed.

Steering ratio in car setup.

STEELJOCKEY
01-06-2015, 21:32
I've finally reached a point where the handling of the cars feels good (again, thanks 1.3 patch) - but I have one serious problem that is making this completely unenjoyable for me. Steering input. What setting do I need to change to make the cars require less steering input? At the moment tight corners and chicanes are near-impossible for me to navigate at speed.

I had the same problem, and lowering the steering ratio wasn't enough. Found a link to Thrustmaster's Facebook page here somewhere that offered a solution to calibrating the wheel and found this worked for me.

From memory, in wheel calibration, push y to reset, then when calibrating wheel, turn full left then full right, push a to save, and to calibrate feedback, push full right, not 90 degrees, hold and push a to save. Calibrate pedals as normal. Check steering deadzone is 0, and check other settings you've applied if using Jack's PDFs, including the extra settings from page 6.

STEELJOCKEY
01-06-2015, 21:32
I've finally reached a point where the handling of the cars feels good (again, thanks 1.3 patch) - but I have one serious problem that is making this completely unenjoyable for me. Steering input. What setting do I need to change to make the cars require less steering input? At the moment tight corners and chicanes are near-impossible for me to navigate at speed.

I had the same problem, and lowering the steering ratio wasn't enough. Found a link to Thrustmaster's Facebook page here somewhere that offered a solution to calibrating the wheel and found this worked for me.

From memory, in wheel calibration, push Y to reset, then when calibrating wheel, turn full left then full right, push A to save, and to calibrate feedback, push full right, not 90 degrees, hold and push A to save. Calibrate pedals as normal. Check steering deadzone is 0, and check other settings you've applied if using Jack's PDFs, including the extra settings from page 6, post 59.

IR STiGGLES
01-06-2015, 22:19
2. Fy+SopLateral Mix - side load mix (front/rear) 2/3 + 1/3 by forces not by numbers. FFB feels slightly different but gives more feel what the
rear of the car is doing, all other parameters as Standard.

Sorry for the newb question but is this an additional setting I am supposed to adjusted in addition to the settings in the download?

STEELJOCKEY
01-06-2015, 22:31
From Thrustmaster's Facebook page

"Important tips: Patch 1.3 - Project CARS-XBOX ONE
Patch 1.3 of Project CARS-XBOX ONE is now available.
Unfortunately, with this patch, Steering Deadzone is set to 15 (instead of 0).
Fortunately, this point is easy to solve smile emoticon !
1) Go to OPTIONS / CONTROLS tab.
2) Press the Y button on your wheel to RESET, then press the A button (OK) to confirm = picture 1.
3) Go to CONFIGURATION and set STEERING DEADZONE to 0 = picture 2.
4) Return to CONTROLS and launch CALIBRATE WHEEL by pressing the X button.
- Press the A button to start the calibration.
- Turn the wheel completely to the left and completely to the right (number 100 will appear on the screen).
- When done, press the A button to go to Next Step.
- Now hold the wheel 90° clockwise (STEERING LOCK 900° for TX Wheel = picture 3 or STEERING LOCK 240° for SPIDER Wheel = picture 4).
- When done, press the A button to Finish and the A button again to Save.
YOU ARE READY TO PLAY!"

Of course this could change again when patch 1.4 comes out shortly

Jack Spade
02-06-2015, 06:13
2. Fy+SopLateral Mix - side load mix (front/rear) 2/3 + 1/3 by forces not by numbers. FFB feels slightly different but gives more feel what the
rear of the car is doing, all other parameters as Standard.

Sorry for the newb question but is this an additional setting I am supposed to adjusted in addition to the settings in the download?

The spreadsheed contains 4 different sets of individual car FFB settings each set represents a slightly different FFB character, so itīs up to you to decide which works best for you.

Sean Reinhardl
02-06-2015, 13:53
This is what i was using till today, i did some testing on the ffb settings (again) and for the first time i found good and strong ffb without pulling the tire ffb to 200.
These are my settings :

Tire Force 100
Per Wheel Movement 0
Per Wheel Movement Squared 0
Wheel Position Smoothing 0.04
Deadzone Removal Range 0
Deadzone Removal Falloff 0.01

Linkage Scale 0
Linkage Stiffness 1.00
Linkage Damping 1.00
Relative adjust gain 1.22
Relative adjust bleed 0.10
Relative adjust clamp 1.04
Scoop knee 0.70
Scoop reduction 0.15
Soft clipping half output 1.50
Soft clipping full output 0.50 These 2 are the most important settings to compensate the weak tx-wheel.

These are the ffb settings in main menu. I combine these with the Jack Spade's classic settings but you can also combine these with the standard settings per car.

Nice setting but I tweaked them a little to give a more lose feel on my wheel

Tire Force 100
Per Wheel Movement 0
Per Wheel Movement Squared 0
Wheel Position Smoothing 0.00
Deadzone Removal Range 0
Deadzone Removal Falloff 0.01

Linkage Scale 0.50
Linkage Stiffness 0.90
Linkage Damping 0.90
Relative adjust gain 0.98
Relative adjust bleed 0.00
Relative adjust clamp 0.96
Scoop knee 0.70
Scoop reduction 0.15
Soft clipping half output 0.00
Soft clipping full output 0.00

LextersQuest
02-06-2015, 16:10
At the moment im trying out the 66%.
Probably after patch 1.4 everything will feel different?

IR STiGGLES
02-06-2015, 19:09
Nevermind...I was just somehow missing the last 4 pages of the document

Jack Spade
03-06-2015, 06:00
At the moment im trying out the 66%.
Probably after patch 1.4 everything will feel different?

The patch probably will just affect the global wheel preset stuff. I canīt imagine a complete reset on the car setup menu, would cause a riot.

stux
03-06-2015, 06:15
The patch probably will just affect the global wheel preset stuff. I canīt imagine a complete reset on the car setup menu

This has now been confirmed

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?29158-Project-CARS-All-Platforms-Upcoming-Patch-1-4-Release-notes&p=963837&viewfull=1#post963837

Ie, only the global controller presets, not the car setups

tripglaze2
03-06-2015, 16:16
Thanks for trying. The patch helped these settings even more. I moved the master scale up even more. Did some racing with friends on controllers, waited for the twitchy handling of their controllers to set in. Took the lead each time and never looked back. Some races had 20 - 30 second lead. The TX is so smooth, car rolls thru turns and stays put in straights. Only have to move the wheel an 1 inch or so in most turns.

Jack Spade
03-06-2015, 17:39
Thanks for trying. The patch helped these settings even more. I moved the master scale up even more. Did some racing with friends on controllers, waited for the twitchy handling of their controllers to set in. Took the lead each time and never looked back. Some races had 20 - 30 second lead. The TX is so smooth, car rolls thru turns and stays put in straights. Only have to move the wheel an 1 inch or so in most turns.

Which patch are you talking about?.....patch 1.4, the one mentioned in above postings isnīt released yet.

allec
06-06-2015, 02:59
ok..so after 10 pages, im overwhelmed. i partly blame project cars, cause none of their options you adjust give you any inclincation at all as to what they do.

i am aware of stella stig. i am aware of the PDF with 3 massive layouts that dont clearly tell me what the difference between them are. and im aware that each car i need to tune by myself.

i have owned the game for weeks now, but put it away because it was unplayable. i know the patch came out, and a new one will come out soon to further iron out the kinks. but until then, i have 10 pages on this thread alone with people quoting eachother, showing slightly different variations of options.

can someone please just point it out to me, clean and simple, what i need to adjust? as of right now, my wheel has a huge dead center. i am turning the wheel completely around and around just to make a decent turn--this was not the case before. theres clearly a huge dead center now since the patch. but thats not the point. i hear everyone ranting and raving how ___ and ___ and ___ and ___ and ___ has made the game so much better.

can someone just give me a legit setup of what i need to change? maybe i should refer to one of those PDF files, but after that..is there anything else? or is that PDF file not applicable now after the update?

xbox one/thrustmaster tx wheel.

Jack Spade
06-06-2015, 07:16
deleted.

Jack Spade
06-06-2015, 07:18
ok..so after 10 pages, im overwhelmed. i partly blame project cars, cause none of their options you adjust give you any inclincation at all as to what they do.

i am aware of stella stig. i am aware of the PDF with 3 massive layouts that dont clearly tell me what the difference between them are. and im aware that each car i need to tune by myself.

i have owned the game for weeks now, but put it away because it was unplayable. i know the patch came out, and a new one will come out soon to further iron out the kinks. but until then, i have 10 pages on this thread alone with people quoting eachother, showing slightly different variations of options.

can someone please just point it out to me, clean and simple, what i need to adjust? as of right now, my wheel has a huge dead center. i am turning the wheel completely around and around just to make a decent turn--this was not the case before. theres clearly a huge dead center now since the patch. but thats not the point. i hear everyone ranting and raving how ___ and ___ and ___ and ___ and ___ has made the game so much better.

can someone just give me a legit setup of what i need to change? maybe i should refer to one of those PDF files, but after that..is there anything else? or is that PDF file not applicable now after the update?

xbox one/thrustmaster tx wheel.

The spreadsheed contains per car FFB settings which are part of the car/tire physics, these settings are universal on any type of wheel, also the settings are independent of
future patches for as long the FFB system isnīt changed completely which I doubt it ever will. Useful individual wheel preset settings and suggestions you find here:
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files

Dynomight Motorsports
06-06-2015, 16:17
This is what i was using till today, i did some testing on the ffb settings (again) and for the first time i found good and strong ffb without pulling the tire ffb to 200.
These are my settings :

Tire Force 100
Per Wheel Movement 0
Per Wheel Movement Squared 0
Wheel Position Smoothing 0.04
Deadzone Removal Range 0
Deadzone Removal Falloff 0.01

Linkage Scale 0
Linkage Stiffness 1.00
Linkage Damping 1.00
Relative adjust gain 1.22
Relative adjust bleed 0.10
Relative adjust clamp 1.04
Scoop knee 0.70
Scoop reduction 0.15
Soft clipping half output 1.50
Soft clipping full output 0.50 These 2 are the most important settings to compensate the weak tx-wheel.

These are the ffb settings in main menu. I combine these with the Jack Spade's classic settings but you can also combine these with the standard settings per car.
This works the same as placing tire force to 200. I use this with Jack Spade's Classic Settings and car feels pretty good. Interested to see how they mess..i mean fix the TX wheels in the next patch
Thanks again Rocco

stux
07-06-2015, 02:16
ok..so after 10 pages, im overwhelmed. i partly blame project cars, cause none of their options you adjust give you any inclincation at all as to what they do.

i am aware of stella stig. i am aware of the PDF with 3 massive layouts that dont clearly tell me what the difference between them are. and im aware that each car i need to tune by myself.

i have owned the game for weeks now, but put it away because it was unplayable. i know the patch came out, and a new one will come out soon to further iron out the kinks. but until then, i have 10 pages on this thread alone with people quoting eachother, showing slightly different variations of options.

can someone please just point it out to me, clean and simple, what i need to adjust? as of right now, my wheel has a huge dead center. i am turning the wheel completely around and around just to make a decent turn--this was not the case before. theres clearly a huge dead center now since the patch. but thats not the point. i hear everyone ranting and raving how ___ and ___ and ___ and ___ and ___ has made the game so much better.

can someone just give me a legit setup of what i need to change? maybe i should refer to one of those PDF files, but after that..is there anything else? or is that PDF file not applicable now after the update?

xbox one/thrustmaster tx wheel.

Check your deadzone is set to zero and not 15 or 1 in basic controls section.

ashasha
08-06-2015, 01:42
ok..so after 10 pages, im overwhelmed. i partly blame project cars, cause none of their options you adjust give you any inclincation at all as to what they do.

i am aware of stella stig. i am aware of the PDF with 3 massive layouts that dont clearly tell me what the difference between them are. and im aware that each car i need to tune by myself.

i have owned the game for weeks now, but put it away because it was unplayable. i know the patch came out, and a new one will come out soon to further iron out the kinks. but until then, i have 10 pages on this thread alone with people quoting eachother, showing slightly different variations of options.

can someone please just point it out to me, clean and simple, what i need to adjust? as of right now, my wheel has a huge dead center. i am turning the wheel completely around and around just to make a decent turn--this was not the case before. theres clearly a huge dead center now since the patch. but thats not the point. i hear everyone ranting and raving how ___ and ___ and ___ and ___ and ___ has made the game so much better.

can someone just give me a legit setup of what i need to change? maybe i should refer to one of those PDF files, but after that..is there anything else? or is that PDF file not applicable now after the update?

xbox one/thrustmaster tx wheel.
There are three components to getting this to work.

1. The wheel.
2. The overall FFB settings in the game.
3. The individual FFB settings in the car.

Wheel

1. Make sure that you have the latest firmware installed. You'll need to hook up to a PC to do this and go the Thrustmaster website and download the latest driver/firmware and follow their directions.
2. Calibrate the wheel in the game. Turn it all the way to one direction, hit A and hit it again to save it. Turn it to where it is physically 90 degrees (should say 900 on screen) and while holding them wheel tightly so that it doesn't move hit the A button twice again. Calibrate your pedals as well.


Overall FFB settings

1. Make sure that the deadzone is 0 (it has been reported to default to 15 from the patch on some machines).
2. Use the settings in the first page of the spreadsheet (global settings) http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24582-Universal-FFB-Settings-for-XB1-PS4-Spreadsheet&p=906548&viewfull=1#post906548
3. Use the settings in this post to tweak to taste: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24582-Universal-FFB-Settings-for-XB1-PS4-Spreadsheet&p=948159&viewfull=1#post948159 (I like the moderate settings personally.)

Step 3 has some of the same settings as step 2, but they are tweaked for the TX. The only thing missing between the two sets of instructions is scoop knee and scoop reduction is missing in the link in step 3.

Per car FFB settings

1. Choose a car and use the SoP settings in JackSpade's guide from the first post (third page).
2. Be sure to save them to all circuits in your Garage so that car will be set for FFB for every track by default and then any track specific tuning to the actual car can be saved individually. Basically you do it the first time you select a car and you don't have to do them again.


Now not only does this work pretty damn good IMHO, but these are all based on what he worked out on the PC. This is important because in my opinion whatever they do to improve or fix some of the FFB issues are going to be based on the PC version so in theory anything that they change will just improve the feel of these and I won't have to go through and try to figure out all new settings. As they are they are very good save for what I think is a lack of braking feedback; i.e., I don't feel the tires loading up and steering get heavier and I can't always find that point right before it locks up and all hell breaks loose.

RoccoTTS
08-06-2015, 09:24
There are three components to getting this to work.

1. The wheel.
2. The overall FFB settings in the game.
3. The individual FFB settings in the car.

Wheel

1. Make sure that you have the latest firmware installed. You'll need to hook up to a PC to do this and go the Thrustmaster website and download the latest driver/firmware and follow their directions.
2. Calibrate the wheel in the game. Turn it all the way to one direction, hit A and hit it again to save it. Turn it to where it is physically 90 degrees (should say 900 on screen) and while holding them wheel tightly so that it doesn't move hit the A button twice again. Calibrate your pedals as well.


Overall FFB settings

1. Make sure that the deadzone is 0 (it has been reported to default to 15 from the patch on some machines).
2. Use the settings in the first page of the spreadsheet (global settings) http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24582-Universal-FFB-Settings-for-XB1-PS4-Spreadsheet&p=906548&viewfull=1#post906548
3. Use the settings in this post to tweak to taste: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24582-Universal-FFB-Settings-for-XB1-PS4-Spreadsheet&p=948159&viewfull=1#post948159 (I like the moderate settings personally.)

Step 3 has some of the same settings as step 2, but they are tweaked for the TX. The only thing missing between the two sets of instructions is scoop knee and scoop reduction is missing in the link in step 3.

Per car FFB settings

1. Choose a car and use the SoP settings in JackSpade's guide from the first post (third page).
2. Be sure to save them to all circuits in your Garage so that car will be set for FFB for every track by default and then any track specific tuning to the actual car can be saved individually. Basically you do it the first time you select a car and you don't have to do them again.


Now not only does this work pretty damn good IMHO, but these are all based on what he worked out on the PC. This is important because in my opinion whatever they do to improve or fix some of the FFB issues are going to be based on the PC version so in theory anything that they change will just improve the feel of these and I won't have to go through and try to figure out all new settings. As they are they are very good save for what I think is a lack of braking feedback; i.e., I don't feel the tires loading up and steering get heavier and I can't always find that point right before it locks up and all hell breaks loose.

This should be a sticky. Good explanation and i totally agree with this. :encouragement:

STEELJOCKEY
09-06-2015, 01:32
Agree. I took one GT car out to a track, tried all FFB settings to decide which one felt good for me, then went through all cars and saved their individual FFB settings based on which of the four I like (ended up being the bumps ones). Took about an hour to get all cars saved for all tracks. Best hour you could spend (plus original driving testing) I ever spent. Now easy to just tune cars for individual tracks as I race them.

Jubis
09-06-2015, 14:47
Is there any universals to new DLC pack?

stux
09-06-2015, 14:51
I think Jack should be gifted the DLCs ;)

nissan4ever
09-06-2015, 15:21
I'm going to try the 66% chart when I get off work. I liked the SopLateral Mix chart. But I think the 66% is exactly what I'll like the most.

*update*
I really like the 66% chart. Well done Jack.

Neutreus
09-06-2015, 19:49
The spreadsheed contains per car FFB settings which are part of the car/tire physics, these settings are universal on any type of wheel, also the settings are independent of
future patches for as long the FFB system isnīt changed completely which I doubt it ever will. Useful individual wheel preset settings and suggestions you find here:
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files

Hi Jack,

Are there any formula you use for the cars. I'm not quite sure what to go with for the cars in the new DLC pack, particularly the GT1 cars. I've kind of gone with a GT3 set up but wondered as to how you calculate it?

Thanks for any advices you can give.

Jack Spade
10-06-2015, 06:06
Hi Jack,

Are there any formula you use for the cars. I'm not quite sure what to go with for the cars in the new DLC pack, particularly the GT1 cars. I've kind of gone with a GT3 set up but wondered as to how you calculate it?

Thanks for any advices you can give.

There is a certain formula that I wonīt explain in detail here all I say is itīs based on how SMS translated car/tire physics for FFB, measurements and many tests.

Jack Spade
10-06-2015, 08:11
Tweaker files updated V1.6 - DLC cars and other stuff, info... follow the link in my signature.

RoccoTTS
10-06-2015, 09:25
Tweaker files updated V1.6 - DLC cars and other stuff, info... follow the link in my signature.

Thanks for the new settings, i really appreciate what you do for the community :encouragement:

nissan4ever
10-06-2015, 09:53
Tweaker files updated V1.6 - DLC cars and other stuff, info... follow the link in my signature.

Will you have a PDF file for this V1.6?

Jack Spade
10-06-2015, 12:45
Will you have a PDF file for this V1.6?

You have to ask Woodball.

RoccoTTS
10-06-2015, 13:38
Will you have a PDF file for this V1.6?

You can also use the files for pc, all info is in there.
I did it this way and it works great.

nissan4ever
10-06-2015, 15:04
You can also use the files for pc, all info is in there.
I did it this way and it works great.

I'm lazy & want the PDF on my cell, lol

STEELJOCKEY
11-06-2015, 04:25
Agree, bit hard to open zip file on my iPhone/ipad

Schnizz58
11-06-2015, 16:14
I loaded up the 66% SopLateral settings last night and ran a few laps to try it out. It feels a bit weak so I may end up increasing the Master Scale and SoP Scale parameters. But I had much better feel. One that I've been struggling with is the 250cc Superkart so I ran that on the Dubai track and within 5-6 laps I had knocked 2 seconds off my time. That was using a default tune so I imagine there's more time to be had if I tune it properly. So thanks and job well done Jack Spade and Wootball.

Jack Spade
12-06-2015, 08:21
Concerning patch 1.4

The tweaker files settings or the individual car setup FFB menu settings are NOT affected, just the global wheel presets could be. If some type of wheels feel much stronger than before
simply reduce Tire Force. I checked the patch with a new game profile and the previous one for me thereīs no difference, so donīt delete your profile if you want to preserve your
carrier.

ashasha
13-06-2015, 00:45
I know that Woodball has been taking care of this, but I went ahead and did it for myself (impatient). I just added a few sheets to his workbook. I also added a page with the compression settings for my own reference. Feel free to share as I have no intellectual property and it's really other people's work.

LINKS DELETED as Woodball has updated the first post with his version.

Probably need to be verified as I may have made a mistake going through the xml files and importing it into excel.

STEELJOCKEY
14-06-2015, 08:33
Just looking through pc forum and found bmanic's FFB settings. Used this in combination with Jack's FFB files and I've got feeling of under steer. YAY!!!

What I did was calibrate wheel FFB with 100 tyre force, Dead zone removal range 0.05, Falloff at 0.02, Relative adjust gain 1.35, Bleed at 0.30, Clamp at 1.35, Scoop knee 0.15, reduction 0.10, soft clip half 0.50, full 1.50.

For car FFB, using Jack's classic settings, except Mz 20 higher, all smoothing set to zero, all SoP set to zero. I run master scale at 100, SoP scale is zero.

Suddenly I can feel front end lose traction. A bit sharp, so I think I need to drop Mz a bit or smooth the 'lose it' feeling.

I also set the wheel with 540 DOR, I just find this helps me turning, especially tight turns, and seems to strengthen FFB a bit.

Jack Spade
14-06-2015, 13:00
Just looking through pc forum and found bmanic's FFB settings. Used this in combination with Jack's FFB files and I've got feeling of under steer. YAY!!!

What I did was calibrate wheel FFB with 100 tyre force, Dead zone removal range 0.05, Falloff at 0.02, Relative adjust gain 1.35, Bleed at 0.30, Clamp at 1.35, Scoop knee 0.15, reduction 0.10, soft clip half 0.50, full 1.50.

For car FFB, using Jack's classic settings, except Mz 20 higher, all smoothing set to zero, all SoP set to zero. I run master scale at 100, SoP scale is zero.

Suddenly I can feel front end lose traction. A bit sharp, so I think I need to drop Mz a bit or smooth the 'lose it' feeling.

I also set the wheel with 540 DOR, I just find this helps me turning, especially tight turns, and seems to strengthen FFB a bit.

If you set the Sop stuff at zero you get phase cancellations on Mz and Fy due to the negative Fz value, this is what makes your wheel feel lighter if you turn it at certain angles,
believe me itīs not understeer. This is one of the oddities on this FFB system.
An extreme form of phase cancellations you get if you reverse +/- on one of your speakers on your stereo at home, no more bass, similar thing happens here.

STEELJOCKEY
14-06-2015, 14:07
From bmanic in the pc forum, made sense to me

Go into the "calibrate FFB" menu and set the following (parameters not mentioned should be left at default!):

Tire Force = 100

Deadzone Removal Range = 0.03
Deadzone Removal Falloff = 0.02

Relative Adjust Gain = 1.37 (sometimes it shows 137 and leaves the " . " out)
Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.30
Relative Adjust Clamp = 1.33 (sometimes it shows 133 and leaves the " . " out)

Scoop Knee = 0.12
Scoop Reduction = 0.08

Soft Clipping (Half Input) = 0.60
Soft Clipping (Full Output) = 1.79


Individual car setup FFB settings! I've only had time to test 3 cars but from these you can quickly extrapolate and get the general idea. The main idea is to have a Mz heavy setup and to set a good spindle arm angle and then to set a good Master Scale value so that the FFB "pushes" into the Relative Gain and Soft Clipping at proper levels. These usually end up in the 26 to 36 range, depending on how much down force the car produces or how heavy it is. Here are the settings for the 3 cars that tried.........

......I do however recommend, as does Jack Spade, to keep Fy at a lower value than the other settings because other wise it is dominating the FFB output. Other than that, set your settings as you please.. with or without SoP (though here I recommend using really tiny values. Set SoP scale to the smallest possible value then set SoP lateral scale to smallest possible and finally SoP differential to double that of lateral.. and leave damping at default, that's how I had it setup when I used it).

Olijke Poffer
17-06-2015, 08:45
I just ordered the Thrusmaster TX and a wheel stand pro myself. What the heck. A lot of money but I hope not wasted.... Yesterday I fired up my Xbox 360, after a long time, with forza 4 and the MS wheel and did a couple of laps on road Atlanta and there I discovered the joy of driving with a wheel again.. So today I ordered some cool hardware. :o

Rockefelluh
17-06-2015, 19:32
Anyone used the Jack's Spades on update 1.4 for TX? Wonder if the original settings still work.

RoccoTTS
17-06-2015, 19:39
Anyone used the Jack's Spades on update 1.4 for TX? Wonder if the original settings still work.

Yes i use them and it feels great.

inthebagbud
17-06-2015, 21:55
Anyone used the Jack's Spades on update 1.4 for TX? Wonder if the original settings still work.

I have spent a frustrating night with new patch as ffb feels very heavy now with jacks settings and turn of wheel is not smooth it kind of feels like I can feel it clicking round as I turn. I am a newbie to ffb but last night before patch all was fine using jacks settings. I have tried using settings quoted in other threads tonight but found no real solution

any suggestions would be helpful as the experience tonight was demoralising for me having just got into the game

PTG Ty1er Ward
17-06-2015, 22:25
I have spent a frustrating night with new patch as ffb feels very heavy now with jacks settings and turn of wheel is not smooth it kind of feels like I can feel it clicking round as I turn. I am a newbie to ffb but last night before patch all was fine using jacks settings. I have tried using settings quoted in other threads tonight but found no real solution

any suggestions would be helpful as the experience tonight was demoralising for me having just got into the game

Try turning your Tire Force down to 30 and working your way backup in levels of 10 (40, 50, 60 etc) until it feels right to you again

PTG Ty1er Ward
17-06-2015, 22:32
If you set the Sop stuff at zero you get phase cancellations on Mz and Fy due to the negative Fz value, this is what makes your wheel feel lighter if you turn it at certain angles,
believe me itīs not understeer. This is one of the oddities on this FFB system.
An extreme form of phase cancellations you get if you reverse +/- on one of your speakers on your stereo at home, no more bass, similar thing happens here.

This was both informative and mind-blowing (in a non-reverse polarity kind of way :))

inthebagbud
17-06-2015, 22:35
@ ptg

Thanks have just seen similar suggestion on http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?31743-1-4-ffb so will have go tomorrow

GRTfast
18-06-2015, 03:05
Try turning your Tire Force down to 30 and working your way backup in levels of 10 (40, 50, 60 etc) until it feels right to you again
Yeah, I did this and settled on 40. It feels great.

Wootball
18-06-2015, 08:51
All files (Excel and PDF) are now up to date with version 1.6. I've been on holiday so apologies for the delay.

STEELJOCKEY
18-06-2015, 09:08
Thanks

Any chance you could stick version number at top of xls/PDFs so I know I've got the latest?

Wootball
18-06-2015, 09:30
Thanks

Any chance you could stick version number at top of xls/PDFs so I know I've got the latest?

Done, good idea.

STEELJOCKEY
18-06-2015, 09:55
Awesome, cheers for that. Doh, just printed off before amended :(

Outlaw Peet
18-06-2015, 10:19
Done, good idea.

Thank you very much! Everything is back to normal after patch 1.4 even slightly better:yes:. Tforce 60 and the 66% sheet.

Jack Spade
19-06-2015, 15:22
Thrustmaster has released new driver/FW here: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=12&fid=83&pid=366&cid=15

Snowowl
19-06-2015, 15:56
Yes: Thrustmaster has released (June 19, 2015) V49.B9 for Xbox One: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index...pid=366&cid=15

Make sure to read the PDF file for the proper update procedure.

homed
20-06-2015, 19:35
Hello,

Today i update my TX Wheel (firmware 49) for XBOX One and use setting 66% from Jack Spade
FFB 100%
Tire 100%
I reset and calibrate the wheel (540 degree)
But my wheel shakes left and right on a straight line, and if I loose the wheel the car goes in all directions
Normally the wheel should not move in a straight line
Thx for help

GRTfast
21-06-2015, 02:28
Hello,

Today i update my TX Wheel (firmware 49) for XBOX One and use setting 66% from Jack Spade
FFB 100%
Tire 100%
I reset and calibrate the wheel (540 degree)
But my wheel shakes left and right on a straight line, and if I loose the wheel the car goes in all directions
Normally the wheel should not move in a straight line
Thx for help

Some things to try:

Set the wheel to 900

Back the tire force down to 50-60 range

Lower the Mz setting for each car to ~70

Adjust the steering ratio in the car setup as needed.

Jack Spade
21-06-2015, 06:55
Some things to try:

Set the wheel to 900

Back the tire force down to 50-60 range

Lower the Mz setting for each car to ~70

Adjust the steering ratio in the car setup as needed.

Do not lower Mz as this destroys the core balance of forces, itīs individual car physics FFB tuning not global stuff. Reduce TF and maybe deadzone removal.

GRTfast
21-06-2015, 13:16
Do not lower Mz as this destroys the core balance of forces, itīs individual car physics FFB tuning not global stuff. Reduce TF and maybe deadzone removal.

That may be true, but it definitely helps with the oscillation he is talking about. With the formula C car I spent 2 hours trying to tune it out and that was the only adjustment that got rid of it. It did make the wheel feel kinda dead, so in the end I just decided to live with it, but if he's looking to solve that particular problem, Mz has a big impact on it. Obviously he's free to do as he sees fit, my tips were just a suggestion based on my own testing.

Jack Spade
21-06-2015, 14:09
That may be true, but it definitely helps with the oscillation he is talking about. With the formula C car I spent 2 hours trying to tune it out and that was the only adjustment that got rid of it. It did make the wheel feel kinda dead, so in the end I just decided to live with it, but if he's looking to solve that particular problem, Mz has a big impact on it. Obviously he's free to do as he sees fit, my tips were just a suggestion based on my own testing.

This is what "homed" posted:

Hello,

Today i update my TX Wheel (firmware 49) for XBOX One and use setting 66% from Jack Spade
FFB 100%
Tire 100%
I reset and calibrate the wheel (540 degree)
But my wheel shakes left and right on a straight line, and if I loose the wheel the car goes in all directions
Normally the wheel should not move in a straight line
Thx for help

Tire Force at 100 is by far to much for his kind of wheel post 1.4 patch, also his deadzone removal setting could be the issue. Suggesting to reduce Mz is not the right solution
for these kind of global FFB maladjustment.

GRTfast
21-06-2015, 15:51
Not trying to argue with you. I have my tire force set at 35, and I use your settings. There are a few cars that have the oscillation. I just gave the guy some stuff to try. Sorry if I stepped on your toes.

homed
21-06-2015, 16:27
Hello,

Thx for you answeer !
I put Tire Force to 70 and it's better
where can I find the option deadzone removal setting ?
But I can not countersteering and the wheel go fast left and right

Thx

nissan4ever
21-06-2015, 20:24
Hello,

Thx for you answeer !
I put Tire Force to 70 and it's better
where can I find the option deadzone removal setting ?
But I can not countersteering and the wheel go fast left and right

Thx

Option & help
Control
Hit right bumper (up shift padle)

There you go

psydeviant1
22-06-2015, 11:30
quick question about clipping, does clipping damage the wheel in any way or is it simply just out of the dynamic range (ie like distortion/clipping in a pair of speakers being run to loud which "IS" damaging)
my set up on the TX is per jack spades post #1 on his sig, im running FFb 100 tyre force 75 soft clip 0.50 and full clip 1.50 all other parameters to jacks post and the fy-soplateral mix chart per car,
on the rookies at oulton international i was getting elements of clipping on the hud graph , not massive amounts but it was clipping on certain areas in turns mostly shell oils corner and foulstones, now the feedback is fantastic so is it a case of just lowering the main tyre force slightly to remove the clipping spikes or master scales per car tune up i liove how the wheel feels currently so want to get away with minimum reduction on strength if possible , thanks guys

stux
22-06-2015, 11:46
as far as I know, clipping does not damage the wheel, but rather it just stops having any feel except for a constant force in one direction, while clipping.

Jack Spade
22-06-2015, 12:41
quick question about clipping, does clipping damage the wheel in any way or is it simply just out of the dynamic range (ie like distortion/clipping in a pair of speakers being run to loud which "IS" damaging)
my set up on the TX is per jack spades post #1 on his sig, im running FFb 100 tyre force 75 soft clip 0.50 and full clip 1.50 all other parameters to jacks post and the fy-soplateral mix chart per car,
on the rookies at oulton international i was getting elements of clipping on the hud graph , not massive amounts but it was clipping on certain areas in turns mostly shell oils corner and foulstones, now the feedback is fantastic so is it a case of just lowering the main tyre force slightly to remove the clipping spikes or master scales per car tune up i liove how the wheel feels currently so want to get away with minimum reduction on strength if possible , thanks guys

Software clipping doesnīt damage your wheel. If you have just moderate clipping when driving on high kerbs only leave it at that, otherwise increase (higher value) SC Full Output.

psydeviant1
22-06-2015, 15:07
Software clipping doesnīt damage your wheel. If you have just moderate clipping when driving on high kerbs only leave it at that, otherwise increase (higher value) SC Full Output.

thanks jack , just checking to be sure , clipping is fairly minimal so i think ill leave it as is , nice one pal

MMM1978
22-06-2015, 20:33
Ive just started looking into this after finding i dont seem to feel the wheel go light on understeer with the standard settings. Is there a best set of setting out of the five for understeer detection?

Also when looking at all the global setting defaults, they seemsed to be as your asking me to set them, bar the relative adjust gain. Does everyone else find that? Ive not got to individual car settings yet though.


Cheers
MMM

Flanimal
22-06-2015, 22:38
FFB is on 100, but with tire force turned down as low as 10 my TX still oscillates violently, even at stand still. It's doing my head in, I've spent hours fiddling with suggested sethings.

inthebagbud
23-06-2015, 05:42
FFB is on 100, but with tire force turned down as low as 10 my TX still oscillates violently, even at stand still. It's doing my head in, I've spent hours fiddling with suggested sethings.

@flanimal I have been doing some testing of the ffb for another issue I have but found that in relation to the oscillation there is a relationship between the tire force and master and SOP settings . If the tire force is low in relation to the master setting per car the oscillation occurs . Try turning tf to say 65 and knock the master and SOP right down to say 10 to see if this helps, you can then bring the master and SOP back up as the ffb will feel light at this until you start to feel the oscillation. When you have a point at which the oscillation occurs you will have a benchmark for the relationship between the two settings to work with.

Hope this helps

stux
23-06-2015, 10:19
FFB is on 100, but with tire force turned down as low as 10 my TX still oscillates violently, even at stand still. It's doing my head in, I've spent hours fiddling with suggested sethings.

Have you reset your controller settings? This is necessary after the 1.4 patch for the FFB to work properly. If you don't do this, then you will experience violent oscillations, even in the menus.

MMM1978
23-06-2015, 14:22
When you say reset your controller, is that the same as recalibration of a wheel?

stux
23-06-2015, 16:09
When you say reset your controller, is that the same as recalibration of a wheel?

No.

Press Y in the main controls screen

Flanimal
23-06-2015, 21:32
@flanimal I have been doing some testing of the ffb for another issue I have but found that in relation to the oscillation there is a relationship between the tire force and master and SOP settings . If the tire force is low in relation to the master setting per car the oscillation occurs . Try turning tf to say 65 and knock the master and SOP right down to say 10 to see if this helps, you can then bring the master and SOP back up as the ffb will feel light at this until you start to feel the oscillation. When you have a point at which the oscillation occurs you will have a benchmark for the relationship between the two settings to work with.

Hope this helps
Cheers. I tried your suggestion but still the same. I'm turning my tire force down to minimum and turning it up bit by bit till the problem occurs.
Ok, update, with FFB on 100, I can only turn tire force up to 30, which gives virtually no feed back, any higher and the wheel has a fit.

inthebagbud
24-06-2015, 07:28
Cheers. I tried your suggestion but still the same. I'm turning my tire force down to minimum and turning it up bit by bit till the problem occurs.
Ok, update, with FFB on 100, I can only turn tire force up to 30, which gives virtually no feed back, any higher and the wheel has a fit.

Flanimal

In the car FFB settings what are the master & SOP values

wlw145s
24-06-2015, 14:27
Need some help Wootball or Jack Spade:

I'm noticing that some cars stick at the steering lock. In another thread, a member said it could be related to the FFB settings I'm using and thought he saw somewhere that there is a setting that could cause this. I'm using your 66% setting on a TX wheel with firmware V49 and patch 1.4. I didn't notice it until I updated firmware and patch, but I also didn't start using the FFB settings until then, either. Any help you can provide would be great. Thanks again for putting these settings together! Makes the car so much easier to drive.

Schnizz58
24-06-2015, 14:48
Flanimal

In the car FFB settings what are the master & SOP values
The Master Scale is the overall level of FFB from the spindle (front end of the car) and the SoP Scale is the same thing for the Seat of the Pants (rear end). According to Jack Spade, you should always keep these levels the same.

Jack Spade
24-06-2015, 15:01
Need some help Wootball or Jack Spade:

I'm noticing that some cars stick at the steering lock. In another thread, a member said it could be related to the FFB settings I'm using and thought he saw somewhere that there is a setting that could cause this. I'm using your 66% setting on a TX wheel with firmware V49 and patch 1.4. I didn't notice it until I updated firmware and patch, but I also didn't start using the FFB settings until then, either. Any help you can provide would be great. Thanks again for putting these settings together! Makes the car so much easier to drive.

Using tweaker files on PC you have the option to enable/disable steering lock, but there is no such option on any of the FFB menus. Also, nothing on the car FFB setup menus
that could mess up steering lock.

inthebagbud
24-06-2015, 15:41
The Master Scale is the overall level of FFB from the spindle (front end of the car) and the SoP Scale is the same thing for the Seat of the Pants (rear end). According to Jack Spade, you should always keep these levels the same.

Sorry what I meant was what are your actual settings flanimal

Schnizz58
24-06-2015, 15:46
Sorry what I meant was what are your actual settings flanimal
Ah my bad then. I'll await his response.

Silas Andersen
28-06-2015, 12:48
Concerning patch 1.4

The tweaker files settings or the individual car setup FFB menu settings are NOT affected, just the global wheel presets could be. If some type of wheels feel much stronger than before
simply reduce Tire Force. I checked the patch with a new game profile and the previous one for me thereīs no difference, so donīt delete your profile if you want to preserve your
carrier.

Okay, so i've read this whole thread a few times, and with new firmware, new patches and so on, i'm pretty confused. I haven't applied the individual car FFB settings to more than a few cars, and i haven't gotten very far with my career. I like to drive with 360 DOH (which i intend to make default for my TX via computer, so i don't have to set it every time i unplug something), i have the latest v49 firmware and patch 1.4.
With the above in mind, i would say i'm a pretty standard user. NOW:

Step by step - what do i do?
I would like the answer to be a post that newbs like myself can look at, and follow step by step, and rest assured that they have a good generel FFB setting for the game (and individual cars, if this i still relevant post patch 1.4?).
FYI, i have only tried the classic setting, so unless there is another one of the settings that would be better for most people, just stick with that.
I hope someone (preferably Jack Spade, and by the way thanks a lot for your hard work) will take the time to dumb it down and make a beginning to end describtion of what one needs to do.

It could start like this:

1: update your TX firmware to version 49 at thrustmaster.bla.bla.bla..
2: read a tonne of stuff online and get one step forward and two steps back
3: Ask the smart people to spoonfeed you the answers in ONE simple but extensive guide, for all newbs to use and cherise.

Jack Spade
01-07-2015, 15:24
66% SopLateral values correction - (A mistake in my tweaker files)

Marek RP 219D LMP2 - Fy Scale = 13, Sop Lateral = 130, Master Scale/Sop Scale = 40
Marek RP 339h LMP1 - Fy Scale = 13, Sop Lateral = 130, Master Scale Sop Scale = 39
RWD P20 LMP - Fy Scale = 13, Sop Lateral = 130, Master Scale/Sop Scale = 40
RWD P30 LMP - Fy Scale = 13, Sop Lateral = 130, Master Scale/Sop Scale = 39
Lotus 98T - Fy Scale = 13, Sop Lateral = 130, Master Scale/Sop Scale = 24

Olijke Poffer
02-07-2015, 14:04
Which setting I should use for the soft clipping (half input) & soft clipping (full output) ? I see so many different settings. I'm on. Xbox with a TX 458 wheel.

RoccoTTS
02-07-2015, 14:35
Which setting I should use for the soft clipping (half input) & soft clipping (full output) ? I see so many different settings. I'm on. Xbox with a TX 458 wheel.

I use both at 0. Feels perfect IMO.

Jack Spade
02-07-2015, 16:38
Which setting I should use for the soft clipping (half input) & soft clipping (full output) ? I see so many different settings. I'm on. Xbox with a TX 458 wheel.

Itīs a matter of taste try the moderate settings first, but you should have an appropriate TF level for your type of wheel first before you
activate any of it.

Olijke Poffer
02-07-2015, 19:01
Is the general TF not the same for all cars? I thought once setup the FFB you could leave it as it is and only set the master scale per cat in the garage setup.
Although I can't set the soft clipping half input at zero but this is a known bug I believe.

Edit: I use a TF of 55/65

Olijke Poffer
02-07-2015, 20:30
I use both at 0. Feels perfect IMO.

How do you managed this? I can't set the clipping half input to 0. When I set it to 0 and I leave the field, it jumps right back to 0.10.

RoccoTTS
02-07-2015, 21:12
How do you managed this? I can't set the clipping half input to 0. When I set it to 0 and I leave the field, it jumps right back to 0.10.

You have to reset the wheel settings (press y).

Olijke Poffer
03-07-2015, 06:29
Ahhh ok thanks. Will give it a try this evening. :-)

Jack Spade
03-07-2015, 07:01
How do you managed this? I can't set the clipping half input to 0. When I set it to 0 and I leave the field, it jumps right back to 0.10.

Since patch 2.0 the UI bug is no more.

Jack Spade
03-07-2015, 07:08
Is the general TF not the same for all cars? I thought once setup the FFB you could leave it as it is and only set the master scale per cat in the garage setup.
Although I can't set the soft clipping half input at zero but this is a known bug I believe.

Edit: I use a TF of 55/65

In general all cars are in the same ballpark so no need to fiddle with the settings, itīs a global setting issue you have to deal with.

Fre.Mo
12-07-2015, 14:08
This is what i was using till today, i did some testing on the ffb settings (again) and for the first time i found good and strong ffb without pulling the tire ffb to 200.
These are my settings :

Tire Force 100
Per Wheel Movement 0
Per Wheel Movement Squared 0
Wheel Position Smoothing 0.04
Deadzone Removal Range 0
Deadzone Removal Falloff 0.01

Linkage Scale 0
Linkage Stiffness 1.00
Linkage Damping 1.00
Relative adjust gain 1.22
Relative adjust bleed 0.10
Relative adjust clamp 1.04

Scoop knee 0.70
Scoop reduction 0.15
Soft clipping half output 1.50
Soft clipping full output 0.50 These 2 are the most important settings to compensate the weak tx-wheel.

These are the ffb settings in main menu. I combine these with the Jack Spade's classic settings but you can also combine these with the standard settings per car.

I really don t understand the strategy:
Why on one hand you use scoop and knee to reduce lower forces
and on the other side you use soft clipping to give more importance to lower forces?
I search a setting to increase road feeling (bumps, vibrations on chicane...) but without having a heavy wheel by increasing tyre force or ffb, what parameters do I have to tune?

RoccoTTS
12-07-2015, 15:50
I really don t understand the strategy:
Why on one hand you use scoop and knee to reduce lower forces
and on the other side you use soft clipping to give more importance to lower forces?
I search a setting to increase road feeling (bumps, vibrations on chicane...) but without having a heavy wheel by increasing tyre force or ffb, what parameters do I have to tune?

This was a workaround for the week ffb (almost non-existence) we had on X1 before patch 1.4.
These settings make no sense after patch 1.4.

Schnizz58
13-07-2015, 19:26
I really don t understand the strategy:
Why on one hand you use scoop and knee to reduce lower forces
and on the other side you use soft clipping to give more importance to lower forces?
I search a setting to increase road feeling (bumps, vibrations on chicane...) but without having a heavy wheel by increasing tyre force or ffb, what parameters do I have to tune?
I have recently turned off both soft clipping and scoop reduction (because as you say they work against each other) and now am using only relative torque adjust. This seems to give good definition of road feel (bumps, kerbs, etc.) but isn't heavy or "wooden". Going from memory, I think my settings for RTA are gain=1.08, bleed=0.10 and clamp=0.95. Tire force is 60.

911 C4S
14-07-2015, 03:47
I have recently turned off both soft clipping and scoop reduction (because as you say they work against each other) and now am using only relative torque adjust. This seems to give good definition of road feel (bumps, kerbs, etc.) but isn't heavy or "wooden". Going from memory, I think my settings for RTA are gain=1.08, bleed=0.10 and clamp=0.95. Tire force is 60.

This ffb tweaking is getting more and more frustrating. Are you using Jack Spade's individual car setups and if so are you using the sop settings on the 2nd page or leaving them all default. I've read contradicting thoughts on whether sop settings should be used at all or left alone (while still following the rest of his settings) for our wheel.

Prior to the 1.4 patch and latest tx firmware I eventually found settings that gave me an excellent and consistent ffb experience (mostly using JS 66% w/sop). Since then I've spent hours upon hours reading through these posts and experimenting with settings but still find myself chasing that ffb experience.

Also, what settings are you using for the tx wheel in the thrustmaster control panel? Before 1.4 I had ffb turned down but then 100 in game for both tire force and ffb. I'm thinking about going back to the default and then adjusting TF lower in game. :confused:

Jack Spade
14-07-2015, 06:17
This ffb tweaking is getting more and more frustrating. Are you using Jack Spade's individual car setups and if so are you using the sop settings on the 2nd page or leaving them all default. I've read contradicting thoughts on whether sop settings should be used at all or left alone (while still following the rest of his settings) for our wheel.

Prior to the 1.4 patch and latest tx firmware I eventually found settings that gave me an excellent and consistent ffb experience (mostly using JS 66% w/sop). Since then I've spent hours upon hours reading through these posts and experimenting with settings but still find myself chasing that ffb experience.

Also, what settings are you using for the tx wheel in the thrustmaster control panel? Before 1.4 I had ffb turned down but then 100 in game for both tire force and ffb. I'm thinking about going back to the default and then adjusting TF lower in game. :confused:

I donīt know where you have read this but Iīm pretty certain those authors donīt know much about the pCARS FFB system specifics/oddities included.
BTW the Sop mix versions are ones the vast majority of users prefer.

Schnizz58
14-07-2015, 14:39
This ffb tweaking is getting more and more frustrating. Are you using Jack Spade's individual car setups and if so are you using the sop settings on the 2nd page or leaving them all default. I've read contradicting thoughts on whether sop settings should be used at all or left alone (while still following the rest of his settings) for our wheel.

Prior to the 1.4 patch and latest tx firmware I eventually found settings that gave me an excellent and consistent ffb experience (mostly using JS 66% w/sop). Since then I've spent hours upon hours reading through these posts and experimenting with settings but still find myself chasing that ffb experience.

Also, what settings are you using for the tx wheel in the thrustmaster control panel? Before 1.4 I had ffb turned down but then 100 in game for both tire force and ffb. I'm thinking about going back to the default and then adjusting TF lower in game. :confused:
Yes, I'm using the 66% SoP Lateral set.

I have not changed any settings through the TX control panel. Instead of turning FFB down, I would leave it at 100 and reduce tire force if you feel the need. I run tire force of 60 but 65% feels pretty good too.

911 C4S
14-07-2015, 23:42
I donīt know where you have read this but Iīm pretty certain those authors donīt know much about the pCARS FFB system specifics/oddities included.
BTW the Sop mix versions are ones the vast majority of users prefer.


Yes, I'm using the 66% SoP Lateral set.

I have not changed any settings through the TX control panel. Instead of turning FFB down, I would leave it at 100 and reduce tire force if you feel the need. I run tire force of 60 but 65% feels pretty good too.

Thanks for the reply guys. Leaving out the sop mix settings didn't feel "right" at first but after experimenting with so many different setups I don't think I knew what "right" was supposed to feel like anymore :)

MLT24
15-07-2015, 02:27
Has an update spreadsheet been made for the newer cars added to the game? I dl it about a month ago and I use it on my phone while sitting at wheel. Finally got through all the cars but there were around 6-8 cars that were not on the spreadsheet.

Thanks!

MLT24
16-07-2015, 18:02
I found the 1.6 updated spreadsheet.

Manmadesmiith
19-07-2015, 15:58
Does these FFB settings still apply to patch 2.0?

RoccoTTS
19-07-2015, 17:51
These settings will always apply, with avery patch.

Wootball
23-07-2015, 10:50
The spreadsheet and PDF file have now been fully updated for version 1.7. If there's any problems that anyone spots, please let me know.

Bavarian Turbo
28-07-2015, 14:13
actually one should indeed leave the Force Feedback to 100 and the tire forces so far down until it fits.
Now if I do that (and Tire Force to 24) then my Force Feedback looks like this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKr5sgPsOf4

but if I replace the two values, force feedback on 24 and tire force to 100, then it looks like this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrxPq-Z8QRk
and it feels even more dynamic on

With Force Feedback on 100 the force feedback is even ok, but overall stronger and carrier.
All other values are the same

Wheel ist the Fanatec CSW V2 Bas with Xbox One Hub.
On PC and PS4 i have Force Feedback an Tire Force both on 100 an its great.

what values you have for Force Feedback and tire force?

P1ckN1cker2406
29-07-2015, 09:14
I would like to know that too. Because for me it does the same thing as seen in the Videos above from Bavarian Turbo. Only difference is that I use a Thrustmaster TX Wheel.

Jack Spade
17-08-2015, 14:57
Tweaker Files 2.0 posted - A major update, read the update notes on the first page.

RoccoTTS
17-08-2015, 17:49
Tweaker Files 2.0 posted - A major update, read the update notes on the first page.

So i tried a few cars with these new settings, the BMW M3 E30 and the Ruf RGT8 GT3.
It's just brilliant, these are even better than the previous ones. I'm gonna change all the cars now.

amazed
17-08-2015, 18:23
Where did you get the new numbers from, Rocco?

RoccoTTS
17-08-2015, 18:26
Where did you get the new numbers from, Rocco?

There's a link at the bottom of JS's post. I have downloaded the new tweaker files and opened them.

amazed
17-08-2015, 19:29
There's a link at the bottom of JS's post. I have downloaded the new tweaker files and opened them.

OK. Couldn't understand all the numbers, so I'll wait for Wootball or Oscarolim to update.

RoccoTTS
17-08-2015, 19:43
OK. Couldn't understand all the numbers, so I'll wait for Wootball or Oscarolim to update.

You have to multiply all the numbers by 100. Once you know how to do it it's easy.

baz00ka
17-08-2015, 20:16
man, just wanted to say big thanks, your tweaks really bring those cars alive! wish SMS included them in game by default as different sets of presets to choose from. also thanks to @Wootball and whoever else makes those pdf tables for us console users! looking forward to patch3 on xbox and will try these new tweaks then.


Tweaker Files 2.0 posted - A major update, read the update notes on the first page.

Wootball
27-08-2015, 13:29
All files now up to date for version 2.0.

Benja190782
29-08-2015, 20:35
When are the files up to date for Patch 3.0?

Wootball
31-08-2015, 08:57
Spreadsheet and PDF file updated to version 2.2. All links remain the same.

Schnizz58
03-09-2015, 19:47
Wootball did you miss a few cars? I can't find the RWD LMP cars or the Lykan Hypersport and there are only 3 Rufs.

Globespy
03-09-2015, 21:23
Spreadsheet and PDF file updated to version 2.2. All links remain the same.

Sorry to ask what had likely been answered before.
There's some confusion from the Jack Spade info - he firmly states that master FFB and tire force should be set at 100. Then adjust master spindle/SoP in each car to suit your needs (running at 22 in most GT3 cars seems like plenty of FFB).
I've entered the exact settings recommended in his latest 2.2 file both for global FFB settings in Pcars, and for my favorite GT3 car (M3) but I still have that really annoying dead zone when the wheel is centered and then these massive FFB forces just off center that make smooth driving very difficult - surely this should be a progressive/smooth feeling as you begin turning instead of these huge forces? This also impacts the car when coming back to center in the middle of a chicane, then as you turn the other direction the wheel is difficult to control as you are fighting these very strong forces when you once again leave that center dead zone, often causing the car to go sideways!! At speeds above about 30mph if you are in a straight line and let go of the wheel, it will immediately begin violently turning from left to right, losing complete control of the car - this is not at all realistic when on a flat, smooth, straight road!. I'm positive these overly strong forces just off center are the culprit.
I dont want to dumb down all the FFB to resolve this, and isn't a good solution.
I use TM TX on Xbox One (latest V49 TM firmware with all stock settings in the TM control panel on my PC - FFB defaults at 75, and all other gain values are 100 default).
I have recalibrated multiple times in Pcars calibration, it doesn't help.
Appreciate help.
Thanks.

Schnizz58
03-09-2015, 21:39
Globespy, increase your FFB strength to 100 and lower the tire force to reduce the "notchy" feeling. Mine is around 50-55 (it varies sometimes). Also with a TX, I recommend a little bit of deadzone removal. I think mine is set to 0.12. And you can adjust the deadzone falloff to spread out the deadzone removal force, which further reduces the notch at zero angle. A larger value means a more gradual falloff.

Jack Spade
04-09-2015, 14:09
Sorry to ask what had likely been answered before.
There's some confusion from the Jack Spade info - he firmly states that master FFB and tire force should be set at 100. Then adjust master spindle/SoP in each car to suit your needs (running at 22 in most GT3 cars seems like plenty of FFB).
I've entered the exact settings recommended in his latest 2.2 file both for global FFB settings in Pcars, and for my favorite GT3 car (M3) but I still have that really annoying dead zone when the wheel is centered and then these massive FFB forces just off center that make smooth driving very difficult - surely this should be a progressive/smooth feeling as you begin turning instead of these huge forces? This also impacts the car when coming back to center in the middle of a chicane, then as you turn the other direction the wheel is difficult to control as you are fighting these very strong forces when you once again leave that center dead zone, often causing the car to go sideways!! At speeds above about 30mph if you are in a straight line and let go of the wheel, it will immediately begin violently turning from left to right, losing complete control of the car - this is not at all realistic when on a flat, smooth, straight road!. I'm positive these overly strong forces just off center are the culprit.
I dont want to dumb down all the FFB to resolve this, and isn't a good solution.
I use TM TX on Xbox One (latest V49 TM firmware with all stock settings in the TM control panel on my PC - FFB defaults at 75, and all other gain values are 100 default).
I have recalibrated multiple times in Pcars calibration, it doesn't help.
Appreciate help.
Thanks.

This info is on the first page of my thread:


Use Tire Force to adjust the global FFB force to your liking, values above 100 may cause clipping.


My global FFB settings: FFB = 100, Tire Force = 100 -> Any type of wheel, very important - FFB ALWAYS at 100


In combo with the following global FFB settings, the files are designed to transmit an optimized FFB signal of the individual car to the wheel
avoiding FFB clipping to a great extend.


A certain car maybe at bit weak/strong? Use these 2 Group Master Fader - SpindleMasterScale and SopScale....but always at the same level!
( use careful, high values cause clipping)

You made this out of the above: "Then adjust master spindle/SoP in each car to suit your needs"

Again, all cars are optimized thereīs no need to fiddle with the levels on each of them, the last statement should be seen as a rare exception to the rule.

Globespy
04-09-2015, 17:20
Thanks Jack. I suppose it may have been easier to just ask for help with the dead zone. After much digging I found a solution that works well with the majority of other settings aligned with your numbers. I've pretty much resolved this issue on my TX by using somewhat different dead zone and Scoop values. I appreciate that may not be useful on the Fanatec CSW V2, but they seem to work very well on the TX. I used scoop knee of 0.48 with scoop reduction (with DRR) of 0.38. This was based on data produced from FFB tool on PC (can't recall the name, but you likely know the one).
Reducing Tire force to 55 helps a lot also. At least what feels right to me.
If leaving both global FFB/Tire force at 100 and not reducing master scale/SoP scale in most cars, the FFB is much too strong and not suitable for endurance racing. I'm most cases I would need to reduce master spindle scale/SoP in the car FFB to 22 or so to compensate.

Thanks again for all your work.

Schooner
05-09-2015, 10:10
Posted this in a new thread but thought might be better asked here. Having issues with wheel oscillating back and forth if you let go of the wheel. Reset all controls, recalibrated and still same issues. Not sure what to do to get rid of this.

Jack Spade
05-09-2015, 11:30
Posted this in a new thread but thought might be better asked here. Having issues with wheel oscillating back and forth if you let go of the wheel. Reset all controls, recalibrated and still same issues. Not sure what to do to get rid of this.

All FFB wheels tend to self oscillate more or less itīs not a good idea to let go.

Globespy
05-09-2015, 22:03
Posted this in a new thread but thought might be better asked here. Having issues with wheel oscillating back and forth if you let go of the wheel. Reset all controls, recalibrated and still same issues. Not sure what to do to get rid of this.

I just posted about the same thing 2 or 3 posts above. I think playing with the dead zone stuff will help resolve. Jack is however correct that if you let go of the wheel when the car is moving it will have a tendency to go nuts.
Another thing to try is (assuming you already have global FFB and tire force at 100) increasing the master spindle (make sure the SoP scale matches the spindle) in each car to stiffen it up. This will of course make the wheel much heavier. Another option is to play with the MZ scale. At least for the TX on consoles, I believe it's set too high for almost every car. This might help smooth things out. It's unfortunately trial and error.
Good luck

Benja190782
06-09-2015, 17:58
What is the most popular setup? 66%..??

Globespy
06-09-2015, 21:54
What is the most popular setup? 66%..??

I guess it's personal preference. Most people I race with use classic. I've tried the others but they didn't feel as good, but that's entirely my perspective. I suggest you try then all for 30-60 minutes in a car you know very well, then make up your own mind.

DiabloSandwich
16-09-2015, 19:08
I've just burnt out a Fanatec V2 wheelbase in just over two weeks,the master scale set as per the FFB files seems to be too high,especially for long sessions.
Will have to RMA it and wait for the repair :frown-new:

Globespy
17-09-2015, 18:50
I've just burnt out a Fanatec V2 wheelbase in just over two weeks,the master scale set as per the FFB files seems to be too high,especially for long sessions.
Will have to RMA it and wait for the repair :frown-new:

I think it's funny that people are blaming project cars for their wheel malfunction/failure. The wheel has built in safety mechanisms to avoid failure due to FFB overload/heat issues. You should be angry with Fanatec/Thrustmaster for failing to incorporate fail safe mechanisms in their products. Jack's settings are fine to run global FFB/TF at 100, just don't run master spindle in each car at levels that clearly make it feel you are driving a tractor with flat tires and no power steering. You should feel all the nuances of the road surface, not be drowned by completely unrealistic wheel strength.

DiabloSandwich
17-09-2015, 22:18
I wasn't blaming Project Cars for anything.

I must be that the settings are too high for the Fanatec , FFB/TF at 100 and using master scale as per the settings and playing for long periods seems to not work out too well.

I'll have to try messing with master scale ,and/or tire force lowering.

Jack Spade
18-09-2015, 06:49
I wasn't blaming Project Cars for anything.

I must be that the settings are too high for the Fanatec , FFB/TF at 100 and using master scale as per the settings and playing for long periods seems to not work out too well.

I'll have to try messing with master scale ,and/or tire force lowering.

First of all cars are optimized for maximum output level and in combo with my global settings you are good to go up to Tire Force=100, above that may cause clipping.
I use Sop in all versions and the very basic of my tuning method is to set Master Scale and Sop Scale at the same level, there are important reasons for this which
I wonīt explain here.

GrimeyDog
18-09-2015, 11:37
JMO... I Still believe that 100 in Game FFB is Too High!!! My XB1 Hub came so I Now Have PCars For PS4 and XB1 I can Run the Same Global Settings on Both Consoles and Same in Car FFB settings also... I use the CSW V2 and i set my in Game FFB at 25 and Tire Force at 98 and Both Consoles Feel Great No Clipping and the wheel is VERY Powerful!!!

I Took it for granted that the Global Settings would be the same on XB1 and PS4 they are Not!!! I Re-adjusted the Global Settings on the XB1 to Match My PS4 settings and WOW!!! It Feels Great on XB1 i always use 75 FFB on the V2 wheel and 25 FFB in Game FFB... I Set the wheel to 75 FFB on XB1 PCars it Felt Great also... Then i tried the on wheel Auto FFB thats only available on XB1 and it Felt even Better Seems to be Smoother and Still has the same Power!!!

It is My opinion that the 100 in game FFB is Not Needed Especially with the V2 Wheel!!! thats Feeding the wheel too Much FFB signal which Creates Distortion and Causes Clipping due to input overload... Also you Lose a lot of the Subtle Finer Road Feel because it gets Drowned out by the Harsher More Powerful FFB Effects.

GrimeyDog
18-09-2015, 11:40
I Also Have a TX wheel/T500 Pedals thats Hooked to my Sons XB1... Now that i Have PCars for XB1 i will Test the TX Wheel Also with Lower In game FFB and adjust it accordingly and Post Settings for those that want to Try them.

DiabloSandwich
18-09-2015, 17:50
I am wondering whether I have killed my V2 or if it's just a faulty one.

These are the settings I was using,I wonder if someone who knows what they are looking at, could please advise if they can see anything that was cranked too high in their opinion for a Fanatec V2?

FFB - 100
TIRE FORCE - 100
PER WHEEL MOVEMENT - 0.00
WHEEL POSITION SMOOTHING - 0.04
DEADZONE REMOVAL RANGE - 0.00
DEADZONE REMOVAL FALLOFF - 0.01
LINKAGE SCALE - 0.00
LINKAGE STIFFNESS - 1.00
LINKAGE DAMPING - 1.00
RELATIVE ADJUST GAIN - 1.10
RELATIVE ADJUST BLEED - 0.10
RELATIVE ADJUST CLAMP - 0.95
SCOOP KNEE - 0.70
SCOOP REDUCTION - 0.15
SOFT CLIPPING(HALF) - 0.00
SOFT CLIPPING(FULL) - 0.00
MENU SPRING STRENGTH - 0.05
LOW SPEED SPRING COEFFICIENT - 0.25
LOW SPEED SPRING SATURATION - 0.80
STEERING GAIN - 1.00

I was using Jack's brake rumble settings on some cars,and sop+lateral on others.
The wheel did feel "strong",but according to the telemetry it didnt look too bad.
Curbs were fairly heavy duty on some tracks though.

I did read quite a lot of posts and information,but I am far from being clued up on what these settings actually do.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,I dont want to wreck another wheelbase if I've set something up wrong.

GrimeyDog
18-09-2015, 18:24
I am wondering whether I have killed my V2 or if it's just a faulty one.

These are the settings I was using,I wonder if someone who knows what they are looking at, could please advise if they can see anything that was cranked too high in their opinion for a Fanatec V2?

FFB - 100
TIRE FORCE - 100
PER WHEEL MOVEMENT - 0.00
WHEEL POSITION SMOOTHING - 0.04
DEADZONE REMOVAL RANGE - 0.00
DEADZONE REMOVAL FALLOFF - 0.01
LINKAGE SCALE - 0.00
LINKAGE STIFFNESS - 1.00
LINKAGE DAMPING - 1.00
RELATIVE ADJUST GAIN - 1.10
RELATIVE ADJUST BLEED - 0.10
RELATIVE ADJUST CLAMP - 0.95
SCOOP KNEE - 0.70
SCOOP REDUCTION - 0.15
SOFT CLIPPING(HALF) - 0.00
SOFT CLIPPING(FULL) - 0.00
MENU SPRING STRENGTH - 0.05
LOW SPEED SPRING COEFFICIENT - 0.25
LOW SPEED SPRING SATURATION - 0.80
STEERING GAIN - 1.00

I was using Jack's brake rumble settings on some cars,and sop+lateral on others.
The wheel did feel "strong",but according to the telemetry it didnt look too bad.
Curbs were fairly heavy duty on some tracks though.

I did read quite a lot of posts and information,but I am far from being clued up on what these settings actually do.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,I dont want to wreck another wheelbase if I've set something up wrong.

What did you have your on wheel FFB set to???

Benja190782
18-09-2015, 18:52
Yes the FFB settings seem to high at 100 when you put the Master Scale at 32 for the RUF RGT-8 GT3, but the way I do it is like this:

Thrustmaster TX wheel:
FFB at 100!
Tyre Force at 100!
And everything else is default!

Then I change the "Car FFB settings to Jack Spade 66%" but I change the Master Scale to about the half (the RUF RGT-8 GT3 is 32 at Master Scale - so I change it to 16 instead and remember to change the SoP Scale to 16 also.

@Jack, do you think lowering the Master Scale and SoP Scale is the wrong way to do it if I feel my TX wheel is too strong?

DiabloSandwich
18-09-2015, 19:20
What did you have your on wheel FFB set to???

Hi,I'm not sure how to check?

I updated firmware by connecting the V2 to the pc without the XB1 hub connected,managed to get it into bootloader mode by pressing button for 8secs as per the so called manual.

I then connect the xb1 hub,and you cant enter the tuning menu that is listed in the V2 manual

when pressing menu button I see S_1,or maybe its 5_1 ? ,which is "default"?

I then press the d=pad left button to scroll to FF,then d=pad up and down,you can alter it
There seems to be Aut,and then i can go from 100 downwards
So looks like default is 100,and the manual confirms this also

All my on wheel settings are default,I didnt alter them at all

SENSITIVITY - OFF/AUT
ON WHEEL FF - 100
SHO (SHOCK/VIBRATION MOTORS) - 100
ABS - OFF
LINEARITY - OFF
DEADZONE - OFF
DRIFT MODE - OFF

Should my soft clipping settings both be 0.00?

DiabloSandwich
20-09-2015, 13:40
Okay,after testing various things I have noticed that on wheel FF settings on the Fanatec are vastly different.
The default setting seemes to be "Aut",and not 100 as I previously thought.

Checking back over Jack's post,I used the on wheel settings he listed,as he has the same wheelbase,but is on PC - I turned Shock to Off,put ABS to 65 .
I am using in game FFB and tire force at 100 still,but I don't understand what the soft clipping settings do - they default at 0.00.
I read in Jack's post that he did some settings for other wheels - but I am lost as to what to set mine at.

The car I'm using is the BMW 320TC

This is on XBOX1 btw,I dont know what happens on the PC

FF on the wheel set at 100 gives a very strong wheel feel,with a sort of dip in the center of the wheel and then a big strength ramp as you change direction left to right (first chicane on Imola for example) .It was then hard work to get it turned left to the apex for Tosa.
The braking effects are far more noticable too - with the wheels moving around a lot more,you can also feel the car losing traction at the rear under acceleration.
I had to turn traction control on,as I was spinning up and out on some curbs.
Curbs are really brutal also,feels as though it is going to break the wheelbase.
I was a lot slower with on-wheel FF at 100.
I had to ,in general,lower the master and sop scales down 10 points to get something that didnt feel too strong,but direction changes were still not very nice.
I also had the wheel oscillating when you didnt hold it - which it doesnt do in the setting I tried below.

I then switched the Fanatec's FF to "Aut",and the overall strength is lower.
It's sort of like cheating regarding posting fast lap times,as you dont suffer from the hard braking or wheelspin,and you can control where you put the car far more easily.I wasn't running traction control at all in Aut mode.....
It seems to me like a lot of the Sop has gone from the setup when using "Aut" ,but I could run the car settings as per the FFB tweaks without lowering the scales.

I liked the feel of the brakes and the rear of the car when using on-wheel FF at 100,but I am struggling to get the steering/curbs etc feeling correct.



I am way faster using on-wheel Aut setting,but it feels a bit false.The steering is strong enough,and the handling is okay,but braking and the rear of the car seems to be not right.

edit - I bought the game for PC,and the settings work perfectly - but I cannot get a setup anything like it on the XBOX1

Hellrider13
29-09-2015, 18:26
Thanks so much for this I'd given up on this game but these settings have been amazing have u got any settings for the new Aston car pack and the Mercedes free car or any help on how to approach getting good settings cheers

FlyLastShadow
30-09-2015, 18:04
Just returned to Project Cars. Was looking for the info on how to put my wheel ffb. (will be using the files for the cars ffb)

Im looking for the info that you put in were you calibrate the wheel.

Do we still have to change the numbers in the wheel menu or is the default now the one to take;
And i believe i saw 3 new ones.

Saw few list in pages.

Can anyone advice me on what settings to use to start with.
Thanks

boss360
03-10-2015, 00:10
question for Jack Spade or anyone who might know. I am using your settings for ffb on my xbox and really do like the way they work. that being said I tried a little iracing on friends pc and we were able to set a minimum feedback, what I would call wheel weight. is there a way to simulate that for the tx wheel? project cars felt far better to me other than that one sensation, I would be cool if I could have both.

Thx in advance
see u on the track

ashasha
05-10-2015, 05:38
Right forum this time. :)

Any chance that this gets updated for the latest DLC and free car or is this the end of the line for this fantastic resource? I know that it can be a hassle to keep things like this updated continuously.

Just curious and much appreciation.

Jack Spade
05-10-2015, 14:11
question for Jack Spade or anyone who might know. I am using your settings for ffb on my xbox and really do like the way they work. that being said I tried a little iracing on friends pc and we were able to set a minimum feedback, what I would call wheel weight. is there a way to simulate that for the tx wheel? project cars felt far better to me other than that one sensation, I would be cool if I could have both.

Thx in advance
see u on the track

Actually I donīt know what you mean, if itīs a lighter wheel lower TF.

Jack Spade
05-10-2015, 14:13
Right forum this time. :)

Any chance that this gets updated for the latest DLC and free car or is this the end of the line for this fantastic resource? I know that it can be a hassle to keep things like this updated continuously.

Just curious and much appreciation.

Here it is updated: http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/

allec
06-10-2015, 16:46
Here it is updated: http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/


i bought the game day 1, and looked up to the pdf in the first page. been a long time since i touched the game out of frustration. i have looked at the past few pages on here, and people are talking about the updated tweaks, specifically you said "Tweaker Files 2.0 posted - A major update, read the update notes on the first page." a few pages back. but when i went to the first page, i didnt see any update notes. but then i see you post this link. is this link exactly like the PDF file on the first page, just viewed easier/cleaner looking? just trying to make sure i am referencing the most up to date settings/tweaks before i try to give pcars another chance.

Jack Spade
07-10-2015, 15:08
i bought the game day 1, and looked up to the pdf in the first page. been a long time since i touched the game out of frustration. i have looked at the past few pages on here, and people are talking about the updated tweaks, specifically you said "Tweaker Files 2.0 posted - A major update, read the update notes on the first page." a few pages back. but when i went to the first page, i didnt see any update notes. but then i see you post this link. is this link exactly like the PDF file on the first page, just viewed easier/cleaner looking? just trying to make sure i am referencing the most up to date settings/tweaks before i try to give pcars another chance.

As youīre on PC you better use the tweaker files, follow the link in my signature.

allec
07-10-2015, 17:08
As youīre on PC you better use the tweaker files, follow the link in my signature.

i apologize. wrong information. xbox one.

nissan4ever
10-10-2015, 17:07
i apologize. wrong information. xbox one.

Update your profile to show Xbox One, not PC

Hellrider13
12-10-2015, 15:30
Great settings but way too strong for me I've adjusted master scale back to 16 or 18 and all cars feel great for me now

Jack Spade
13-10-2015, 10:21
Great settings but way too strong for me I've adjusted master scale back to 16 or 18 and all cars feel great for me now

With my settings Master Scale and Sop Scale should always be at the same level.

Jack Spade
04-11-2015, 14:21
Tweaker Files V2.4.1 released

Due to GUI value limits on certain cars (LMP 1, LMP 900) in order to be compatible with consoles, see update notes.

GrimeyDog
04-11-2015, 18:39
https://youtu.be/s_hnGt3M34g


Steering Gain VS 100% in Game FFB.... The Results will Surprise many... try it for your self and see.

GrimeyDog
04-11-2015, 18:40
TX wheel Tweek
Let me know if you need help Tweeking settings for your taste.

NGR ZAGAL
19-11-2015, 23:07
Has some1 has had a problem with the tx wheel when they crash or stop the car. It is that the steering wheel just go crazy side to side very strong. you really care about the wheel could break . another thing is the wheel let you turn until certain point, if you go further turning it the steering wheel gets stucked but if you try to go back stronger you are able to centre it.
Somebody knows about this? This is happening to me with th mclaren gt3

thanks in advance
Zagal

inthebagbud
20-11-2015, 05:41
Has some1 has had a problem with the tx wheel when they crash or stop the car. It is that the steering wheel just go crazy side to side very strong. you really care about the wheel could break . another thing is the wheel let you turn until certain point, if you go further turning it the steering wheel gets stucked but if you try to go back stronger you are able to centre it.
Somebody knows about this? This is happening to me with th mclaren gt3

thanks in advance
Zagal

In the wheel ffb menu there are 3 settings above steering gain which affect the wheel at slow speed/stationary try lowering these to see if it helps, could even have them at 0

boss360
03-02-2016, 16:08
i am having some ffb issues with a few cars ( ford mark 4 and a few other older cars ). i get a ton of feedback when under braking, so much that its hard to corner at all. i have to pretty much brake in a straight line, no trail braking. im currently using 66% minus kerbs. just love it with most the cars, just not a few. ive tried other settings but cant sem to figure it out. anybody know what i should be doing?

AbeWoz
07-02-2016, 18:19
Do you have 66% settings for the Aston GTE? Or would the GT3 car be a good starting point?

pk4425
29-02-2016, 01:47
Silly question, but does anyone use these adjusted FFB settings with an XB1 controller, or are these designed for wheel only? Do they make much of a difference with a controller?

Thanks!

Koza_Nostra
01-03-2016, 10:12
Silly question, but does anyone use these adjusted FFB settings with an XB1 controller, or are these designed for wheel only? Do they make much of a difference with a controller?

Thanks!

These settings are for the wheels, I don't think it would change anything on the controller. There is a thread on this forum somewhere, regards how to set up controller as well, have a look, as from what I know default controller settings are not very good.

pk4425
01-03-2016, 18:27
Many thanks. I'll look for that thread, but links from anyone would be appreciated! Thanks.

Jrbritton88
23-03-2016, 00:19
I don't know if this site has been mentioned. http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/cars It is updated with all the new cars and is mobile friendly. It has all jack spades Xbox ffb setups. Really useful site.

Mowzer
03-01-2017, 09:26
These are adapted from Jack Spade's PC Tweaker files - basically it's his FFB settings, in a spreadsheet so that console users can enter them into their game and use the same FFB settings as PC users are enjoying. These should work for most/all console supported wheels and should be a good starting point for everyone. Obviously a lot is based on personal preference, so if they don't feel quite right each user can alter them in his/her game however they see fit.

There are six sets of FFB settings within this spreadsheet.

Whatīs the difference between the sets?

1. Classic - classic parameters Fx,Mz,Fy,Fz - but additional SopDiff. bumps/kerbs/road feel from the rear tires, solves phase issues.

2. Fy+SopLateral Mix - side load mix (front/rear) 2/3 + 1/3 by forces not by numbers. FFB feels slightly different but gives more feel what the
rear of the car is doing, all other parameters as Standard.

3. 66% - Featuring Side Load Forces derivated from the Rear. The character of SopLateral leaves Mz more space to breathe, allows about
10% - 13% increased Master Scale and Sop Scale values than in other sets. Entering curves the wheel slightly feels lighter than
usual but compensates with more dynamic, you gain more feel when the tail wants to step out.
In the Fy+SopLateral Mix version Fy (side load front) is dominating, besides the Master Levels this is the main difference.
Note, although different side load mix versions they are following laws of physics, in this case how SMS interprets including
human error (and bugs).

4. Bumps Plus - Based on the Fy+SopLateral Mix version, more Rockīn Roll from bumps and kerbs, clipping not ruled out.

5. Brake Rumble - in game Fx = longitudinal force. Fx is equally cranked up on all cars, itīs a temporary force so it wonīt spoil the core balance. Though cranked up there is just little effect on lots of cars. As reference check the Radicals and the Caterham 500 on Oulton Park.

6. Bumps Plus - Classic - Similar to the Bumps Plus version but based on the Standard-Classic settings.

Download from Google Drive here:

Excel: https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0Bw5ulCOYvLckYUlFOURuX2RRU1U&export=download
PDF: https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0Bw5ulCOYvLckM3pDYnBCVXdkQ2c&export=download

Let me know if there are any problems!

Dose anyone know if the spreadsheets are still active? As i cant get them to open on my Android phone or tablet :(.

inthebagbud
03-01-2017, 11:36
Extract from Jack Spades post


For the Console Guys

Wootball no longer does the conversion this website is up to date: http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/

But you can export the settings though.

Choose the folder you want and export it from this site:
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/export

If you don't have MS Excel, you can open the file with OpenOffice Calc :-)
http://www.openoffice.org/

You can export the file in pdf-format from both programs.

Mowzer
03-01-2017, 12:15
Extract from Jack Spades post


For the Console Guys

Wootball no longer does the conversion this website is up to date: http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/

But you can export the settings though.

Choose the folder you want and export it from this site:
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/export

If you don't have MS Excel, you can open the file with OpenOffice Calc :-)
http://www.openoffice.org/

You can export the file in pdf-format from both programs.

Thanks for information mate :).

bindschadler
04-03-2017, 01:05
Hi Wootball,
New to ProjCars. Want to try your FFB settings but link to either XLS or PDF seem to be broken.

inthebagbud
07-03-2017, 16:57
Hi Wootball,
New to ProjCars. Want to try your FFB settings but link to either XLS or PDF seem to be broken.

see post above yours