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Mr Akina
14-05-2015, 16:28
I've tried properly, short shifting, driving too hard.. No matter what I do, 15 minutes into career Endurance Races, I get a mechanical failure and a blown engine. It's all completely default settings (except for the fuel load and steering ratio). I am using a controller with traction control on. Any ideas?

SlickReed
14-05-2015, 16:30
I've tried properly, short shifting, driving too hard.. No matter what I do, 15 minutes into career Endurance Races, I get a mechanical failure and a blown engine. It's all completely default settings (except for the fuel load and steering ratio). I am using a controller with traction control on. Any ideas?

How long are you waiting to shift? Its not good to let any engine sit at redline for too long.

Elmo
14-05-2015, 16:30
Did you make any contact with other cars prior to blowing your engine?`

Anyway we are looking into improving the situation.

Moved to Technical Support.

Bailey
14-05-2015, 16:31
I had the same problem. Don't crash into anyone. That show I fixed my problem. Front end damage makes the temps spike. Try to keep the temps below 120 at all costs. You can get it fixed by pitting and getting repairs.
~Bailey

Mr Akina
14-05-2015, 16:33
How long are you waiting to shift? Its not good to let any engine sit at redline for too long.

Like I said, I've tried short shifting too - So maybe one green light on the steering wheel, usually none. Nowhere near the redline.


Did you make any contact with other cars prior to blowing your engine?

Nope, I was on pole and pick my way through traffic with care. I even put the AI on 70 and tried it so they were easier to maneuver around.


I had the same problem. Don't crash into anyone. That show I fixed my problem. Front end damage makes the temps spike. Try to keep the temps below 120 at all costs. You can get it fixed by pitting and getting repairs.
~Bailey

Thanks Bailey, I don't remember any significant contact. But this has happened at Watkins Glen and Sonoma now. Road America next, so I'll be extra cautious. Where can I check the temps in cockpit view?

HEF51
14-05-2015, 16:36
Open the radiator more.

Bailey
14-05-2015, 16:49
Like I said, I've tried short shifting too - So maybe one green light on the steering wheel, usually none. Nowhere near the redline.



Nope, I was on pole and pick my way through traffic with care. I even put the AI on 70 and tried it so they were easier to maneuver around.



Thanks Bailey, I don't remember any significant contact. But this has happened at Watkins Glen and Sonoma now. Road America next, so I'll be extra cautious. Where can I check the temps in cockpit view?
I'm actually in my last 30 minutes of Sonoma right now (100% distance). I have had to pit once or twice to get my temps back down after contact so far. Before the race I open my radiator to 100% just in case. If the temps get hot short shifting does not work for me. Coasting into braking areas and using less throttle has been the best option.
You can check the temps in cockpit view by pressing the button that changes your Motec steering wheel display. I had to assign it on PC. When you press the button it will scroll through different pages on the Motec wheel.
~Bailey

ctd
14-05-2015, 16:54
As HEF51 suggested. The LMP:s (also the LMP2:s) are sensitive for reving them to high (especially if you have a hit on the front). You need to have close looks at the oil and water temps. Open the radiator more is one thing to do.

Sonic6L
15-05-2015, 08:13
I get the engine blow all the time in the Karts, 5 times in one race after restarting it each time, eventually I turned mechanical failures off... It's not fun to have an engine blow EVERY SINGLE RACE.

z3r0cool77
15-05-2015, 17:48
I've had a couple engines blow immediately after exiting pits. I've assumed that it's random component failure kinda like the pit guy's losing wheel nuts and the electrical failure I had in a Cleo. Which really cracked me up btw to have an electrical failure right out of the gates in a Renault. (a la Redbull F1) :) I haven't tried LMP1 yet though so perhaps they are more sensitive or there's some other issue/bug.

Lukeymonster
15-05-2015, 17:56
Like others said keep and eye on your temps. You may need to open your radiator but you'll add some drag. Also you can push much harder in the evening and night hours due to the decrease in ambient temp.

Mr Akina
15-05-2015, 20:44
Thanks for the tips guys (and gals, maybe?).. I'll give the radiator thing a go and keep an eye on those pesky temps!

Umer Ahmad
15-05-2015, 20:50
yeah, the MOTEC displays show water and oil temp. Both should remain under 100c

MAX out the radiators, that should help.

Bambus
16-05-2015, 13:12
Remember, takes two laps to get oil, water up to proper operating temp so short shift until oil up to 90c. Haven't had and engine blow since I've waited for heat before giving full beAns

Vitamin R
19-05-2015, 14:40
I've only had issues after damaging contact. I always shift just before redline. As long as I do not make contact, the engine remains operable. If you make hard contact, pit immediately to repair the damage.

Umer Ahmad
19-05-2015, 15:00
There is also a damage logic adjustment coming to make the radiators a bit tougher

Bailey
19-05-2015, 15:04
There is also a damage logic adjustment coming to make the radiators a bit tougher

Yes! Thank you.
~Bailey

g33k hack3rs
19-05-2015, 17:51
There is also a damage logic adjustment coming to make the radiators a bit tougher

This will hopefully help a bit. I understand that Formula A and other open wheel racing is more sensitive to damage but seems the radiator settings for most touring and GT cars are way more sensitive than reality. It can't be that a small bump cause that much damage every time. Glad to hear this is being adjusted.