PDA

View Full Version : FFB discussion / favorite FFB setups



Bouyo
19-05-2015, 17:53
This thread is intended for those people who want to discuss FFB settings and feel that they've hit that 'sweet spot' with a certain car/FFB setup.


I've spent a while 'dialing in' certain cars and in the process I have come up with a formula that I apply for each 'new' car that I drive. Basically I'm changing two parameters for each individual car now and am happy with the results.

My Formula:

Global settings: Jack's (see sticky thread in main page)

Master Scale: 100
Fx: 70
Fy: 12
Fz: 80
Mz: 40
Smoothing OFF
Sop Scale:100
Sop Ly: 10
Sop Diff: 20

I set my car this way, then take it out. If the wheel provides resistance all the time, I'll lower both Master scale and Sop scale by the same amount until I feel maximum range of resistance, from light (under acceleration out of a corner) to heavy (braking into a corner.)
When I have the Master scales set, then I'll adjust arm angle to really get the feel I want. Increase the arm angle if the handling is too stiff, decrease if it's too limp.

As the FFB settings are purely to taste, I'm interested in other people's opinions/approaches.

Here's my favorite setup at the moment:

Car: Radical SR8-RX
Master Scales: 100
Arm Angle: 1000
Other setting settings as per above


Please post your favorites and try out other people's too!

jason
19-05-2015, 22:18
I think It would be more helpful if you mentioned the wheel you are actually using , this is how things get a little confusing , we have several wheels that work with ps4 but everyone is posting to use the same settings . That doesn't work .

What we need to do is break these FFB sections up into e.g T100 - T300 - T500 - fanatic and so on so we can get some consistency on what people are coming up with , Sorry I am getting extremely frustrated at the amount of threads we have here on the subject and I am totally confused and not getting anywhere with my t500rs with the settings that are being posted , as they are or seem to be for a t300 .

Not your fault and I'm sorry for my rant.

Titzon Toast
19-05-2015, 22:46
TBH, I wouldn't really trust any settings until after the wheel issues have been patched.

Bouyo
20-05-2015, 03:52
I think It would be more helpful if you mentioned the wheel you are actually using , this is how things get a little confusing , we have several wheels that work with ps4 but everyone is posting to use the same settings . That doesn't work .

What we need to do is break these FFB sections up into e.g T100 - T300 - T500 - fanatic and so on so we can get some consistency on what people are coming up with , Sorry I am getting extremely frustrated at the amount of threads we have here on the subject and I am totally confused and not getting anywhere with my t500rs with the settings that are being posted , as they are or seem to be for a t300 .

Not your fault and I'm sorry for my rant.


Totally agree with you, there should be forum sections for popular wheels/setups. I'm just interested in other peoples approach to FFB setup, even more so than the specific numbers actually.

I'm running at T300RS and having a great time, beating AI at 100 and really enjoying the game.

I liked seeing the sticky for Jack's FFB tables and I like his Global settings, however I feel like people should come up with their own stuff rather than blindly plug Jack's numbers in without playing around and figuring out what's what.

Incidentally; I think the reason why my settings work so well in terms of controlling the car is because Fx is much larger than Fy, which is true in the real world, and Fz seems to need to be large to feel the 'bumps'. Sop scale and master scale should be the same because why would the front be different than the back of the car? The Ly should be small to mirror Fy.

What do you guys think?

Wootball
20-05-2015, 05:09
It's all in the spreadsheet, there's four different settings to suit personal taste, they've been developed for years, and they're universal for every wheel, and they're designed based on the real world physics for every single car. Might as well just 'blindly' use them.

beat-sampras
20-05-2015, 08:06
Do you guys with the T300 also experience the wheel going kind of crazy when driving really fast on long straight parts of the track? Does this have anything to do with the settings, or is that normal? It kind of feels like I am almost losing control of my car, when the steering wheel is straight and I am going really fast.

Bouyo
20-05-2015, 12:49
Do you guys with the T300 also experience the wheel going kind of crazy when driving really fast on long straight parts of the track? Does this have anything to do with the settings, or is that normal? It kind of feels like I am almost losing control of my car, when the steering wheel is straight and I am going really fast.

I have to say that I don't experience loosing control while going fast on a straight, quite the opposite actually. Interestingly enough though if I completely let go of the wheel at any point in gameplay it will usually lead to a feedback loop setting up and the wheel will spin wildly, so I just don't let go! Are you letting go on straightaways? How's the Nurburgring straight?

Bouyo
20-05-2015, 12:54
It's all in the spreadsheet, there's four different settings to suit personal taste, they've been developed for years, and they're universal for every wheel, and they're designed based on the real world physics for every single car. Might as well just 'blindly' use them.

I don't agree that these are THE settings to use. It's a subjective thing. Don't let someone else tell you what's right in this case.

beat-sampras
20-05-2015, 13:05
@Bouyo:
thanks for the reply. That really is interesting :D.
I really don't let go off the wheel. Quite the contrary - when the wheel starts to wiggle / shake, I hold it tightly. But the only thing that helps is
a) to break / b) to turn the wheel slightly to the right, or left - so that it's not completely straight anymore.

Wootball
20-05-2015, 13:51
I don't agree that these are THE settings to use. It's a subjective thing. Don't let someone else tell you what's right in this case.

I didn't. That's why there's four distinct settings for every single car with more to come in future.

Questioning everything gets really boring, really fast - I've decided to trust someone that done a lot of work on the game for four years.

Titzon Toast
20-05-2015, 14:43
It's all in the spreadsheet, there's four different settings to suit personal taste, they've been developed for years, and they're universal for every wheel, and they're designed based on the real world physics for every single car. Might as well just 'blindly' use them.

Which spreadsheet is this please? I found one on these forums that had two setup choices alright.
I didn't know there was four.

gbm
20-05-2015, 14:45
Which spreadsheet is this please? I found one on these forums that had two setup choices alright.
I didn't know there was four.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24055-Universal-FFB-Settings-for-PS4-XB1-Spreadsheet

Titzon Toast
20-05-2015, 15:09
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24055-Universal-FFB-Settings-for-PS4-XB1-Spreadsheet

You're a gentleman, thank you.
That file must have been updated since I last saw it!

wyldanimal
20-05-2015, 15:09
For the PS4, I think the big issue now is that we can't turn off the centering Spring force.
In a Turn this force is masking too much of the other FFB feelings.
Most all you can feel when turning, is the Wheel Resisting your Turn.
No road feel, no grip or loss of grip. Just Heavy resistance to trying to turn.

Wootball
20-05-2015, 15:24
You're a gentleman, thank you.
That file must have been updated since I last saw it!

It has, it was updated yesterday.

Source: I wrote it

gbm
20-05-2015, 15:39
For the PS4, I think the big issue now is that we can't turn off the centering Spring force.
In a Turn this force is masking too much of the other FFB feelings.
Most all you can feel when turning, is the Wheel Resisting your Turn.
No road feel, no grip or loss of grip. Just Heavy resistance to trying to turn.

This is confirmed? And there is no walkaround or fix for this?
I ask because I just purchased a T100 this morning....

Bouyo
20-05-2015, 15:41
For the PS4, I think the big issue now is that we can't turn off the centering Spring force.
In a Turn this force is masking too much of the other FFB feelings.
Most all you can feel when turning, is the Wheel Resisting your Turn.
No road feel, no grip or loss of grip. Just Heavy resistance to trying to turn.

This is exactly what I found with most people's FFB setups. Try turning the Fy and Ly down to between 10 and 15, then turn your Master scale and sop scale up to between 80 - 110. There's a sweet spot where you'll feel everything you need to know about brake/acceleration and slip angle. Then tweet the arm angle for what's most comfortable.

Any wheel should (and will) return to centre in real life because of the geometry of the front suspension, i.e the castor angle/camber/toe. I wouldn't want to drive a car that didn't get more stable in a straight line the faster it went!

Wootball
20-05-2015, 16:12
This is exactly what I found with most people's FFB setups.

It's got nothing to do with the FFB settings - the console version of pCars doesn't have any lock spring control which means the wheel is always trying to fight back at full force.

Bouyo
20-05-2015, 16:30
It's got nothing to do with the FFB settings - the console version of pCars doesn't have any lock spring control which means the wheel is always trying to fight back at full force.

I have to say that I disagree! There's a difference between the wheel wanting to centre itself (which is common to all cars) and the wheel 'fighting' to get back to centre.

The wheel should be stiffer at high speeds and under braking, then provide feedback in a corner, and finally turn light under acceleration out of the corner until turn traction is back on all wheels, then stiff again in a straight line, and repeat ...

This is totally achievable on the Ps4.

Wootball
20-05-2015, 16:38
It's still wrong. At the moment that spring is not calculated by the car physics, it's determined by the wheel.

See this thread:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22495-Known-Issues-Collective-Thread-(PS4)-Not-for-bug-reporting!-Updated-18-05

Which has it listed as a known issue in the PS4 version.

Bouyo
20-05-2015, 17:11
It's still wrong. At the moment that spring is not calculated by the car physics, it's determined by the wheel.

See this thread:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22495-Known-Issues-Collective-Thread-(PS4)-Not-for-bug-reporting!-Updated-18-05

Which has it listed as a known issue in the PS4 version.

Interesting. So the game is calculating wheel centering based on caster/camber/toe and there's an additional contribution from the wheel. Surely the wheel's contribution can be dialed/canceled to a certain extent by modifying the games FFB settings? I feel like I've achieved this. Who knows ... I'll be excited to try a patched version though if they enable wheel spring centering adjustment.

I can't help but want to work with what I have at the moment though, rather than 'give up' because of a single factor. What are your thoughts?

Edit: Just read the spring return issue link you posted. Seems like the spring return issue lessens when driving fast because the game's FFB contribution masks the spring force when forces are high in-game. I certainly feel like the wheel works better when pushing hard on a track that I know, as opposed to crusing Calofornia highway in a car I don't, then it can feel heavy like you say.

Titzon Toast
20-05-2015, 18:17
It has, it was updated yesterday.

Source: I wrote it

Well thanks again so for taking the time to gather all that together man.
Much appreciated by everyone around here.

Bouyo
20-05-2015, 22:06
@Bouyo:
thanks for the reply. That really is interesting :D.
I really don't let go off the wheel. Quite the contrary - when the wheel starts to wiggle / shake, I hold it tightly. But the only thing that helps is
a) to break / b) to turn the wheel slightly to the right, or left - so that it's not completely straight anymore.

Just saw your reply to my post. If you're having oscillation problems in a straight line then maybe you should change the dead zone on your wheel (make it larger) to ensure that there actually is a dead zone, otherwise the wheel will jump from left steer to right steer with no where to 'rest' in between.

jason
21-05-2015, 06:40
settings by scrogg , these are some wicked settings.

Settings for my T500RS with Kurb Effects



Okay, have spent the last 2 hours with AC, PC and my T500 at Spa in a BMW Z4 gt3

I don't have it perfect yet but I have made a ton of progress on getting that AC feel.

Many people may not care for the feel but to me it's a great leap in as far as the immersion goes (I like a heavier wheel and feedback, even if it isn't totally accurate)

Okay, to start my T500 is set at the typical TM Panel settings of 900 degrees 60% 100/100/0/0 let game center. I wanted to keep this as it is what it is set at for all my other games.

In PCars control panel

Tire force 100
Per Wheel Movement 0.0
Per Wheel Movement squared 0.0
Wheel Position Smoothing 0.04
Deadzone removal range .05
Deadzone removal falloff .01
Linkage Scale 0.0
Linkage Stiffness 1.0
Linkage Damping 1.0
Relative Adjust Gain .98
Relative adjust Bleed .10
Relative adj clamp .96
Scoop Knee .70
Scoop Reduction .25
Soft Clipping (Half Input) 0.0
Soft Clipping (Full Output) 0.0

Under Vehicle Tuning Setup > Force Feedback > Spindle

Master Scale 10 (this is low and I still get a ton of FFB)
Fx Scale 54
Fy Scale 54
Fz Scale 60
Mz Scale 90.01 (this is almost like spring center, it will determine how much resistance you get turning the front wheels)

All Smoothing set at 0.0

Arm Angle 1200

Under Vehicle Tuning Setup > Force Feedback > Body & SOP

Body Scale 0.01
Body Longitudinal Scale 0.01
Body Stiffness 100
Body Damping 100

Below is the biggy if you like kurb effects and feeling the bumps in the road

SoP Scale 100
SoP Lateral Scale 70
SoP Differential Scale 100
SoP Damping 0.0

Disclaimer: Try these at your own risk, what I like in FFB may be nothing like what you like. I will say though if you thought the FFB before was not aggressive enough or heavy enough, you might like these settings. I also only tried these with one car at one track. These settings most likely will need even more tweaking with different vehicles, but that is part of the appeal of this title, it allows you to do just that.

Even if they are not to your liking they might get you pointed in a direction that does work for you, this is a game that is going to make you crawl under the hood so to speak if you want to get the most out of it.

Thanks for looking and if it is a help, let me know.

Bouyo
22-05-2015, 02:16
Just tried your settings Jason. Really like them and it's interesting how low your have the master scale set. Sop is really pronounced. I like how solid the feel is too.

My default setup involves whttp://cdn.smosh.com/sites/default/files/legacy.images/smosh-pit/092010/extreme-ironing-hang-glide.jpg master scale and lower Fy and Ly. While yours seems the opposite. Interesting that they're simil ar. I feel that I have slightly more info from my setup vis longitudinal accelerate/decelerate but your settings feel more immersive. Now I'm working on how to achieve both at once!

jason
26-05-2015, 02:34
Let me know what you come up with bud.