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nissan4ever
23-05-2015, 16:38
V50 update gives you the option to force your fan to run the whole time you have wheel powered up. Hold mode button, then hit menu button. You'll see 2 flashes. Now your fan will be in forced on mode. This will be remembered & only need to be done once. To disable, hold mode & hit menu button. You'll see 1 flash & fan should turn off.

I'd like to congratulate you on joining the Thrustmaster TX family. Here's some helpful tips to have your new TX set up and ready to go.

The first thing you need to do is use your computer & check what firmware is on your new TX.

The Thrustmaster TX is currently on Firmware V50.
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If your wheel firmware isn't up to date, head here.
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=12&fid=83&pid=366&cid=15

Scroll down to the bottom of the page. You'll see "download driver 2014". Download that first. Now your computer will see your wheel. Next, on the same screen, look for option to download PDF file on instructions for doing firmware update. Then look for in the same screen, the latest firmware update for TX & click on it & download it. Follow instructions from PDF file you already downloaded. Now you're all set.

Next, this is only thing you must do every time you turn your TX on for a gaming session

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The following procedure is what I do every time I turn on my TX for a gaming session & ensure my pedals are already calibrated to my TX base before I load up Project CARS.

Plug your TX up to your electrical outlet. Now connect your USB cable to the Xbox One console. Let the wheel fully calibrate (spin left, then right) on its own. Once that's done, while still on Xbox One dashboard. Press the gas pedal fully for 3 seconds & release. Then press brake pedal fully for 3 seconds & release. If you have T3PA pedals, do the same for the clutch. This concludes what you need to do, every time you turn your TX on for a gaming session.

While your on the Xbox One dashboard, go ahead and press up and select/assign your gamertag profile to the wheel.

Your TX is 900 by default when you power it on. Leave your base on default 900. You only need to do the following things once. Unless you choose to reset your wheel in game for whatever reason. Then you need to do the following again.

This first step is courtesy of PTG Ty1er Ward.

Launch Project CARS, once game has started. Disconnect the usb cable & then plug it back in. Let the wheel fully calibrate (spin left & right). Next, go to options & help.
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Then go to controls then choose reset. Exit out of controls then re-enter. Reset again then save. Then choose to calibrate the wheel. In the calibration screen- For the first step rotate the wheel COMPLETELY to the LEFT as far as you can, maxing it out at 100. Then rotate the wheel COMPLETELY to the RIGHT as far as you can, maxing it out at 100. Now press A Button for next- while holding the wheel at 100.

For step #2- Rotate the wheel all the way back to the left full lock. Then rotate it back to the right until you get to 900 for the steering lock. Hold the wheel at 900 and press A Button. Then press A Button to save.

It seems that for the first step rotating it both ways before moving to step two is what enables the soft/hard DOR limit lock."

See picture below for the numbers that will be on the screen, from doing this.

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Further adjustments to your steering can be done in game in the tuning garage, via a slider in regards to steering ratio. However, to work correctly, you must calibrate wheel correctly. Which I just stated above with the picture.

Next, push brake pedal to calibrate your pedals. Follow on screen instructions.
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This concludes what must be done once, to ensure your wheel/pedals work correctly with Project CARS

Once complete, time for the next step.

Next up, press the gas pedal. This will take you to Force Feedback Calibration
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I personally only changed Tire Force number. My Tire Force is set at 50 (my personal preference. set to your personal preference). I left everything else in this section default, post patch 3.0!

Next press the up shift padle. This is your deadzones set up for steering, acceleration, Deceleration & Clutch.
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At the very bottom, is your FFB setting, which default is 100. I have my FFB set at 100 (recommended).

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24582-Universal-FFB-Settings-for-XB1-PS4-Spreadsheet

This link (^^^^) is very helpful for getting great force feedback settings, per car. Input the info for the car, based on the various charts to choose from.

This next part is courtesy of PTG Ty1er Ward. Remember you need to leave your TX base on 900. The Formula below is how you get true steering ratio change, without changing it physically on the base.

Come to a complete stop and bring up the telemetry HUD, look at the top where you see this: IIIIIIII^IIIIIIII. Rotate your wheel to the left until the arrow stops at the left side and note how many degrees you have turned the wheel. The Formula A will stop just a bit shy of 270 degrees. So we multiply that by 2 (full left and right) and we see that is has a default DOR of 540. Now go the the tuning menu and look at the default steering ratio, it is 10.9:1- Which means for every 10.9 degrees we turn the steering wheel the tires will move 1 degree and we also now know that the tires stop turning when the steering wheel rotates 270 degrees each way left and right, 540 in total -

So by dividing 540/10.9 we get 49.54 degrees and now we know what that what the tires are doing in degrees (24.77 degrees each way left and right, this value will never change in game). So we can reverse the math-

If I want a 440 DOR then 440/49.54= 8.8 (8.9:1 steering ratio)

If I want a 360 DOR then 360/49.54= 7.3 (7.3:1 steering ratio)

If I want a 270 DOR then 270/49.54= 5.4 (5.4:1 steering ratio)

Now, once you enter your new steering ratio in tuning for your car. SAVE IT. EXIT FREE PRACTICE. GO BACK TO FREE PRACTICE. Your TX will now do a FFB full lock based on your steering ratio in game. This is totally awesome and works!

Now hit the tracks. Enjoy Project Cars!

Side note - disregard that attached thumbnail directly below this sentence. You don't need it in this game.

JakeFitz24
23-05-2015, 18:05
Wel my wheel just decided to stop turning on so now im facing even bigger problems

nissan4ever
23-05-2015, 19:30
Sorry to hear that. Call Thrustmaster support. Hopefully they will get you squared away.

joeracer67
23-05-2015, 20:24
Try to unplug the short wire between the usb connection and the racing wheel wire. After an hour of trying to get my computer to recognize my wheel it must have slightly unplugged not allowing my pc to see it. Hope this helps

IgorTheHunchback
24-05-2015, 00:14
My Thrustmaster TX is in the post and I should get it next week :-) thanks for posting this info op it's going to be very useful.

ashasha
24-05-2015, 01:26
This is pretty much exactly what I've ended up doing to get the best results after two weeks of dorking with the thing. Only thing that needs to be added is that when you calibrate the wheel you must hold onto it for the second setting and until you press A again to save it or else it is extremely weak. You will feel it kick at you, then press A and you are done.

The spreadsheet is great for getting really close, but I usually end up increasing Mz a bit and adding a little bit of body scale to it; that's a really subjective one and sometimes I think that I like it without and sometimes I like it more. I'm crazy like that.

You still won't feel the tires loading up during braking which sucks, but beyond that it's really pretty good. Make it stronger and fix that and it'll be amazing IMHO.

turbohondaej1
24-05-2015, 01:32
Try to unplug the short wire between the usb connection and the racing wheel wire. After an hour of trying to get my computer to recognize my wheel it must have slightly unplugged not allowing my pc to see it. Hope this helps

Had this happen the other day wheel would come on and self calibrate but none of the lights where on very weird situation to a new wheel owner.

On a side note this is a good write up but maybe there should be a disclaimer for the wheel because of the current state of the ffb on the tx and an update is coming. That way people aren't getting the wrong impression of the game ffb.

nissan4ever
24-05-2015, 03:26
My Thrustmaster TX is in the post and I should get it next week :-) thanks for posting this info op it's going to be very useful.

Your welcome

FA RACING 01
24-05-2015, 06:06
Thanks mate. Will keep this.

Pikamark
24-05-2015, 09:56
When setting at the 90* part do you hang on to the wheel while pressing A? So not letting it re centralise

Efill4ziggiN
24-05-2015, 11:23
Yeah keep old of it while you press the a buttons.. Turn wheel to full lock so it says 100 % now .. 2nd part it says 90 degree hold press a ... But on inside sim racing darin gangi put it to read 900 for full ration and also seem a few on youtube put it to 540 .. 360 and 270 as full lock

Efill4ziggiN
24-05-2015, 11:30
Mine done that last week it was the fuse in plug try that first mate

nissan4ever
24-05-2015, 11:49
When setting at the 90* part do you hang on to the wheel while pressing A? So not letting it re centralise

No I don't hold mine when I do the 90. My FFB feels the same regardless if I hold it or not [I use to run insanely strong FFB on Project Cars {because of FM5 lame FFB} After using spread sheet PDF, I now know what proper FFB is supposed to feel like]. Just make sure you have the # on 900.

Pikamark
24-05-2015, 12:27
No I don't hold mine when I do the 90. My FFB feels the same regardless if I hold it or not [I use to run insanely strong FFB on Project Cars {because of FM5 lame FFB} After using spread sheet PDF, I now know what proper FFB is supposed to feel like]. Just make sure you have the # on 900.

Thanks if I prefer racing with 540 or 360 should I just set the last step with my required setting

Whigs
24-05-2015, 14:19
a youtube would be wonderful lol.

nissan4ever
24-05-2015, 14:59
Thanks if I prefer racing with 540 or 360 should I just set the last step with my required setting

It's recommend that you have wheel set to 900 in Project Cars. You adjust steering ratio in tuning to get your desired feel.

Pikamark
24-05-2015, 15:46
It's recommend that you have wheel set to 900 in Project Cars. You adjust steering ratio in tuning to get your desired feel.

Thanks m8 just setup as you said and it feels absolutely fine with good ffb

nissan4ever
24-05-2015, 20:08
Thanks m8 just setup as you said and it feels absolutely fine with good ffb

Your welcome! Enjoy the game. I personally think Project Cars is epic, especially with a wheel.

Pikamark
24-05-2015, 20:56
Your welcome! Enjoy the game. I personally think Project Cars is epic, especially with a wheel.
I totally agree with you I only played for a few hours before I ordered a tx wheel I used to have a fanatec csr elite with club sport pedals but sold it when I brought the Xbox1 as they weren't compatible. So I've been along time waiting for a game worthy of buying a new wheel.
One question though as I found no info in the manual or website what does the sensor on the wheel do with the kinect camera?

nissan4ever
25-05-2015, 02:16
I totally agree with you I only played for a few hours before I ordered a tx wheel I used to have a fanatec csr elite with club sport pedals but sold it when I brought the Xbox1 as they weren't compatible. So I've been along time waiting for a game worthy of buying a new wheel.
One question though as I found no info in the manual or website what does the sensor on the wheel do with the kinect camera?

Nothing, lol. Kinect sees the wheel (go to settings < kinect < what does kinect see & hit A to get to infrared), but the console doesn't assign it to your gamertag, like it will a controller.

babaluk
03-06-2015, 15:01
I just got the Thrustmaster TX 458 Italia. Walmart got it in stock and I bought the 3 year warranty. They overnight shipped it for $10. I am all dialed in on Forza 5. I am getting more dialed on Pcars.

Question: My wheel does not feel totally "smooth" when turning left or right. I can feel the wheel "clicking" a little bit. Every degree of rotation is a small subtle click. Anyone else feel this?

nissan4ever
03-06-2015, 15:19
I just got the Thrustmaster TX 458 Italia. Walmart got it in stock and I bought the 3 year warranty. They overnight shipped it for $10. I am all dialed in on Forza 5. I am getting more dialed on Pcars.

Question: My wheel does not feel totally "smooth" when turning left or right. I can feel the wheel "clicking" a little bit. Every degree of rotation is a small subtle click. Anyone else feel this?

Should go away with use, according to Thrustmaster Support. Apparently some wheels have done it when new, allegedly. I never experienced that with mine personally. .

babaluk
04-06-2015, 11:47
Should go away with use, according to Thrustmaster Support. Apparently some wheels have done it when new, allegedly. I never experienced that with mine personally. .

I've played Forza 5, Horizon 2, The Crew and Project Cars with this wheel now. Quite a bit this week. I've found that the clicking sensation is almost completely un-noticeable on all the games except Project Cars. On Project Cars this feels like a completely broken wheel. The clicking feels amplified. I've tweaked all the FFB settings and set up every car Ive driven independently in PCars too.

Hopefully SMS will get this wheel working correctly for their game soon.

Dan77 DESTROYER
04-06-2015, 12:13
I've played Forza 5, Horizon 2, The Crew and Project Cars with this wheel now. Quite a bit this week. I've found that the clicking sensation is almost completely un-noticeable on all the games except Project Cars. On Project Cars this feels like a completely broken wheel. The clicking feels amplified. I've tweaked all the FFB settings and set up every car Ive driven independently in PCars too.

Hopefully SMS will get this wheel working correctly for their game soon.

When you say clicking do you actually mean a click or are you refuring to what is the teeth on the belts inside the unit which you can feel currently because they are new, once they are bedded in they should start feeling smoother.
I have no "clicks" coming from my wheel but very slightly feel the belt teath as I turn currently.

babaluk
05-06-2015, 18:45
When you say clicking do you actually mean a click or are you refuring to what is the teeth on the belts inside the unit which you can feel currently because they are new, once they are bedded in they should start feeling smoother.
I have no "clicks" coming from my wheel but very slightly feel the belt teath as I turn currently.

By clicking I mean as I move the wheel to the right or to the left I feel a "click" for every degree I turn the wheel. It is much more pronounced with Project Cars. I don't even notice it playing the other games like Forza. It seems that SMS have not properly set up this wheel's FFB. Turning is NOT smooth in PCars. I gave up on Project Cars until the 1.4 patch comes down.

I am loving the TX wheel though. I was concerned about the bad reviews but the wheel I received is great. The FFB is strong in FM5, FH2 and the controls are spot on. I even started left foot braking with this pedal set. The brake pedal is really stiff but it works fine when I use my left foot to break.

nissan4ever
05-06-2015, 19:10
I honestly had an issue with clicking with my TX on FH2. I don't know why it did it. It didn't do it on FM5 & definitely not on Project CARS.

Also, I must have been one of the lucky ones. My TX was a launch batch wheel. I never had problems with mine to date. I've easily raced over 400 hrs on it so far.

Kingleo
05-06-2015, 20:36
Help Please.... PC version

I've had my TX wheel for a while now but just got the F1 rim for it.

1. I was getting no FFB at all unless I selected the T500/F1 in the controller options... Is this normal for the F1 wheel on a tx?

2. I can't navigate or select anything with the wheel no mater if I am using the T500/F1 or the TX control Scheme. Is there a workaround?

babaluk
05-06-2015, 21:59
I honestly had an issue with clicking with my TX on FH2. I don't know why it did it. It didn't do it on FM5 & definitely not on Project CARS.

Also, I must have been one of the lucky ones. My TX was a launch batch wheel. I never had problems with mine to date. I've easily raced over 400 hrs on it so far.

Nice! It seems like a great wheel. Maybe thrustmaster just has quality control issues from time to time. I waited for a retailer who has local stores and offered a 3 year warranty to get this wheel in stock (walmart). So, if this wheel does fail I can resolve the issue quickly. The cool thing was that the wheel was already upgraded to the latest version (48) of the firmware out of the box.

nissan4ever
05-06-2015, 22:26
Help Please.... PC version

I've had my TX wheel for a while now but just got the F1 rim for it.

1. I was getting no FFB at all unless I selected the T500/F1 in the controller options... Is this normal for the F1 wheel on a tx?

2. I can't navigate or select anything with the wheel no mater if I am using the T500/F1 or the TX control Scheme. Is there a workaround?

Hopefully a PC user can help with that. The only thing I can figure is go to the Thrustmaster control panel on a PC. However, after that, I don't have a clue. I game on a console. Sorry.

babaluk
09-06-2015, 18:44
When you say clicking do you actually mean a click or are you refuring to what is the teeth on the belts inside the unit which you can feel currently because they are new, once they are bedded in they should start feeling smoother.
I have no "clicks" coming from my wheel but very slightly feel the belt teath as I turn currently.

UPDATE: I haven't played this game since posting. Ive been on all the other driving games and using the TX wheel. I came back to Project Cars today. Same issue. Clicking. So, I decided to reset all the configuration settings back to default. I dropped the FFB down to 50 too. And now the clicking is gone! It was definitely something in the settings (that came from the stickied spreadsheet on this forum) that caused the clicking in the wheel. Just finished 6 laps at Nurburg GP and it felt really good with a GT3 car.

nissan4ever
09-06-2015, 18:53
UPDATE: I haven't played this game since posting. Ive been on all the other driving games and using the TX wheel. I came back to Project Cars today. Same issue. Clicking. So, I decided to reset all the configuration settings back to default. I dropped the FFB down to 50 too. And now the clicking is gone! It was definitely something in the settings (that came from the stickied spreadsheet on this forum) that caused the clicking in the wheel. Just finished 6 laps at Nurburg GP and it felt really good with a GT3 car.

Glad you got it sorted. I don't experience it with the spreadsheet. But glad you've fixed your issue :)

nissan4ever
24-06-2015, 05:47
Friendly reminder. I've noticed in another thread, that some folks realized they did calibration of wheel in game wrong.

Remember to leave your base on default 900. Under wheel calibration in game, turn to full lock when prompted (turn a tad farther to get the # 100 on the screen). Hit A Button. Next for the 90, Make sure you see # 900 on the screen (hold wheel in place). Hit A Button (after 1 or 2 seconds, release the wheel).

Apparently some folks on the 2nd step for 90, are not having screen # say 900. Make sure it says 900 on screen before you hit A Button when doing 90!!

nissan4ever
10-07-2015, 10:59
I updated OP in this thread. Deadzone Removal of the TX. Also, the Soft Clipping Half & Full. The more I learn, I'll adjust this post accordingly.

nissan4ever
13-07-2015, 16:58
I've also now have included info for correctly calibrating your TX to 900 & getting that soft/hard ffb lock in game. Via changing steering ratio in tuning. Leave base on 900.

This new info is courtesy of PTG Ty1er Ward. You do it exactly as it's worded, you'll be good to go!

Quick example. After you do the things I added from him. Go to the garage on the main menu. Select the RWD P30 LMP1. If you already have a tune for Spa on it, load it up. Then select edit tune. Set your steering ratio to 9.0:1. That is the equivalent of 360 (for that car). Save it. Now head to free practice at Spa in that car. When you get to the chicane & finial tight turn at the end of the lap. You will see the wheel will hit full lock at 180 (FFB induced). That is awesome! There's no reason to ever change the DOR on your TX base from 900. You set it up correctly, you will get correct DOR from steering ratio in tuning, provided you also do his simple formula I've included as well in my OP.

wlw145s
16-07-2015, 14:38
Bump. Please sticky. Must use calibration of the first post each time the game is loaded. Please fix this. We shouldn't need to go through this every time we start the game.

nissan4ever
16-07-2015, 15:53
Bump. Please sticky. Must use calibration of the first post each time the game is loaded. Please fix this. We shouldn't need to go through this every time we start the game.

You only need to physically calibrate the pedals to the TX base, when it is turned on for your session. That's the normal function of the TX wheel. I choose to calibrate my pedals on the dashboard. Fully press every pedal, independently for 3 seconds to calibrate it for your session. Then I load up Project CARS. This pic is from TX Manual.
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Other than that, there's nothing else you must calibrate when you turn on your TX base or start Project CARS game. NOTHING

Edited: I went back & re-did wording on some parts of my original guide post. Don't want any confusion.

wlw145s
16-07-2015, 20:12
Thanks, Nissan. I will double check it, but it appeared that mine was not keeping the calibration from one session to the next. Had to redo each time. Thanks.

nissan4ever
16-07-2015, 20:46
Thanks, Nissan. I will double check it, but it appeared that mine was not keeping the calibration from one session to the next. Had to redo each time. Thanks.

Just make sure you save it before you exit, everything should stay.

Pikamark
17-07-2015, 07:56
Just make sure you save it before you exit, everything should stay.
I thought it always saved on backing out on exit anyway does it not then?

nissan4ever
17-07-2015, 10:50
I thought it always saved on backing out on exit anyway does it not then?

That is correct. I don't know why I said that :)

FlyLastShadow
17-07-2015, 15:26
Were you talk about that formula. Does this only work wen using that F1 wheel. I only have the standard wheel.

"Come to a complete stop and bring up the telemetry HUD, look at the top where you see this: IIIIIIII^IIIIIIII."
Should i do this with every car and do the math to see what steering ratio to use?
Thanks.

nissan4ever
17-07-2015, 17:44
Were you talk about that formula. Does this only work wen using that F1 wheel. I only have the standard wheel.

"Come to a complete stop and bring up the telemetry HUD, look at the top where you see this: IIIIIIII^IIIIIIII."
Should i do this with every car and do the math to see what steering ratio to use?
Thanks.

Okay I got both the GTE & F1 rims. If I'm driving a car with GTE style rim on it, then that's what's on my TX. If I'm driving a car that has a F1 style rim, then that's what's on my TX.

Then I do the steering ratio formula for that car with matching style rim on my TX.

Ixoye56
18-07-2015, 01:28
I do not see the point to force it over the natural stop at the end to maxing it out to 100, my wheel stop at 96 and if understand correct, if i calibrate it at the natural stop (96) then that value will be 100 (full lock) in the game,
Otherwice I have to force it over the natural stop every time to achive full steering lock, and that can't not be good for the mecanics in the wheel, I'll have try both those methods, and I cant say i have noticing any difference in performance, so i callibrate my wheel at the natural stop from now on.

STEELJOCKEY
18-07-2015, 01:31
The calibration process is as advised by Thrustmaster themselves. If they say turn it until 100 shows for DOR, there must be a reason why they are saying that.

nissan4ever
18-07-2015, 03:46
I do not see the point to force it over the natural stop at the end to maxing it out to 100, my wheel stop at 96 and if understand correct, if i calibrate it at the natural stop (96) then that value will be 100 (full lock) in the game,
Otherwice I have to force it over the natural stop every time to achive full steering lock, and that can't not be good for the mecanics in the wheel, I'll have try both those methods, and I cant say i have noticing any difference in performance, so i callibrate my wheel at the natural stop from now on.

You are not hurting the FFB motors by doing this. However, by all means do what you want with your wheel. I don't personally see an issue with turning rim a tad further up get 100 on my screen (mine is a day one launch batch TX, with over 500 hrs on it). As far as I'm concerned, won't hurt nothing. You only calibrate the steering if you reset your wheel in game.


Secondly, if you calibrated your wheel correctly, you'll never hit the natural lock anyway. You'll have wheel induced FFB lock at various degrees varying by the car. I set all my cars DOR by doing the Formula. I prefer my cars set to 360. I hit my FFB induced lock at 180. No where near the natural lock of 900. I hit my FFB induced full lock at 135 (for 270 DOR), 180 (for 360 DOR), & whatever it is for 440 540. I never turn the wheel to natural 900 full lock while playing Project CARS. It hits FFB induced lock well before 900 natural lock point

Pikamark
18-07-2015, 06:52
Hi Nissan4ever have you had to change any settings from the first page since the new patch 2.0? I haven't had a chance to play yet but wil hopefully get on a little later . I take it the wheel will need re calibration and reset since the new patch

Thanks

Olijke Poffer
18-07-2015, 07:08
You can't set it as seen in the start post. Simply because after the patch 2.0 you are not able to set withthis small steps. It increment with 6.

General_RIMT
18-07-2015, 07:21
This works perfectly. Worthy of a sticky. Thank you for taking the time to write this up!

lafabrique1
18-07-2015, 09:47
hello, I follow every steps, It works great.
But I have a question about Jack Spades sheets. For exemple on Bump plus, on certain cars it seems I can't set the slider perfectly.
For exemple master scale should be 27 with the McLaren F1 BUT I can't have just slide 26 or 28. IT seems i can't set 1 by 1. I am on Xbox one. Is it normal? And if so, How to tune the car proprely?

Is it working for you normally?

nissan4ever
18-07-2015, 12:45
Hi Nissan4ever have you had to change any settings from the first page since the new patch 2.0? I haven't had a chance to play yet but wil hopefully get on a little later . I take it the wheel will need re calibration and reset since the new patch

Thanks

I've updated first page. I did reset my wheel for Patch 2.0. Those settings for tire force page numbers are accurate for me after patch 2.0. Also, my FFB is 100.

nissan4ever
18-07-2015, 12:47
You can't set it as seen in the start post. Simply because after the patch 2.0 you are not able to set withthis small steps. It increment with 6.

Go all the way left and back to get number or go all the way right to get number for the numbers on tire force page. You will get the numbers I got. I did reset my wheel after patch 2.0. I also changed some numbers on the tire force screen.

nissan4ever
18-07-2015, 12:47
This works perfectly. Worthy of a sticky. Thank you for taking the time to write this up!

Your welcome

nissan4ever
18-07-2015, 12:49
hello, I follow every steps, It works great.
But I have a question about Jack Spades sheets. For exemple on Bump plus, on certain cars it seems I can't set the slider perfectly.
For exemple master scale should be 27 with the McLaren F1 BUT I can't have just slide 26 or 28. IT seems i can't set 1 by 1. I am on Xbox one. Is it normal? And if so, How to tune the car proprely?

Is it working for you normally?

In cases like that, I always use the number above the number on the chart. Example, Master Scale 27. I personally would set Master Scale to 28. However, nothing wrong with 26 either. Up to you.

Olijke Poffer
18-07-2015, 19:48
Go all the way left and back to get number or go all the way right to get number for the numbers on tire force page. You will get the numbers I got. I did reset my wheel after patch 2.0. I also changed some numbers on the tire force screen.

Does not make any different. I still only can set it per 6. Reset everything but no luck. Strange.. I even deleted my profile...

nissan4ever
18-07-2015, 19:54
Does not make any different. I still only can set it per 6. Reset everything but no luck. Strange.. I even deleted my profile...

Your right, it's in multiples of 6. However, to get the numbers I got posted. Go to the specific one you want to change. Go all the way to the left & come back & see if you got the number you want (that I posted). If not, go all the way right, then come back & see if you hit #. If not, go left & then come back. On one of those attempts, you'll hit the numbers that I'm currently using. There's no need to delete your profile.

Innerspace_HQ
18-07-2015, 20:18
I found this to be a huge help this morning after 2.0.

Oddly enough I didn't need to do even half the steps when I first set my wheel up initially, patch 1.3 I think, but today every step was followed to ensure it worked properly.

Thank you kindly for this. Big help!

nissan4ever
18-07-2015, 20:49
I found this to be a huge help this morning after 2.0.

Oddly enough I didn't need to do even half the steps when I first set my wheel up initially, patch 1.3 I think, but today every step was followed to ensure it worked properly.

Thank you kindly for this. Big help!

Your welcome

LMR ShOwTiMe875
18-07-2015, 20:55
I'm using jack spades 66% settings and I have ffb at 70 and tire force at 44 I can't run any higher than that to much torque on the wheel

Olijke Poffer
18-07-2015, 20:57
Your right, it's in multiples of 6. However, to get the numbers I got posted. Go to the specific one you want to change. Go all the way to the left & come back & see if you got the number you want (that I posted). If not, go all the way right, then come back & see if you hit #. If not, go left & then come back. On one of those attempts, you'll hit the numbers that I'm currently using. There's no need to delete your profile.

All the settings are ok now except the tire force.. I can't set it to 50. It won't go back to zero but it stays at/on 1. So when I go up it goes to 1:7:13:19:25:31:37:43:49 etc etc. 49 is ok but it is not as it suppose to be of course..

Edit: ok to 200 and back will stop at 50 indeed. Strange bug but it works. Lol

Innerspace_HQ
18-07-2015, 20:58
49 is ok but it is not as it suppose to be of course..

It's pretty close though. :)

I also can't get mine to 50, think I'm on about 54 or something from memory.

Innerspace_HQ
18-07-2015, 21:09
To get tire force on 50. You need to go all the way left, try to come back to 50. If not, go all the way right & then come back & try to get 50. If you still don't, go all the way left & then go back & try to hit 50. Just repeat till you get that number on screen. You can hit 50, you just got to move slider all the way left & right until you can hit 50.

Yeah, I read that before and tried it... doesn't work for me. The game is haunted, man. It does spooky shit at times so I wasn't overly surprised, or concerned. It's working a treat for me at whatever the next setting up was. :)

Although if I did encounter any tracks it was too much, just alter master and sop. Job done.

nissan4ever
18-07-2015, 21:10
Yeah, I read that before and tried it... doesn't work for me. The game is haunted, man. It does spooky shit at times so I wasn't overly surprised, or concerned. It's working a treat for me at whatever the next setting up was. :)

Go right all the way to 200. Then come back, should hit 50. If not, go left first to 1, then go to 200 & you should hit 50 on the way back.

Innerspace_HQ
18-07-2015, 21:11
Go right all the way to 200. Then come back, should hit 50. If not, go left first to 1, then go to 200 & you should hit 50 on the way back.

Yeah, like I say... it works a treat for me the way it is. I'm not gonna be too concerned about a number or two out when I can just change master and sop for any track I find it too heavy.

nissan4ever
18-07-2015, 21:36
Yeah, like I say... it works a treat for me the way it is. I'm not gonna be too concerned about a number or two out when I can just change master and sop for any track I find it too heavy.

Cool

nissan4ever
19-07-2015, 02:26
Quick FYI. From my experience thus far today, I've settled with 38 as my tire force. At low speeds, FFB strength is light. Once you get up to speed, the FFB gets stronger (harder to turn the wheel, do to your increased rate of speed). I've also tweaked Deadzone Removal Range 0.10 & Deadzone Removal Falloff 0.055 (both are on tire force page). For my taste, these seem like a great balance & feels good.

No matter what I did, soft clipping half & full felt terrible after Patch 2.0, so I just leave them both at zero now.

Boskapongen
19-07-2015, 10:33
Great work Nissan4ever! Just bought PCars and your input helped med alot to get going in the game.

nissan4ever
19-07-2015, 10:35
Great work Nissan4ever! Just bought PCars and your input helped med alot to get going in the game.

Your welcome.

Boskapongen
19-07-2015, 10:41
So far very good, took a while before buying the game due to all negative stuff about it out there, but i guess the 2.0 patch was a game changer :). on top of all this i just got my first wheel (TX) in years and also a playseat :)

i am 45 years old but still going strong with games, my wife.....not that impressed! lol

nissan4ever
19-07-2015, 10:57
Nothing wrong with that! Enjoy this great game!

Sean Reinhardl
19-07-2015, 13:23
Fantastic guide
Used it to get a good setup feel then tweaked it to my own preferences

nissan4ever
19-07-2015, 14:04
Fantastic guide
Used it to get a good setup feel then tweaked it to my own preferences

Fantastic! Glad to have been able to help you :)

Didd31
19-07-2015, 14:42
i made 4 test : 10 laps Formula B Silverstone each ( with a good in cars ffb setting made yesterday with 2.0, origin calibrations parameters after reset/calibration so the same as Nissan4Ever said )

1) FFB = 48 / TF = 104 : It is very good, accurate, rich in sensations, the power is impeccable. the hardness was especially curve fast input speed feels very well
. The rear reactions are nice , i use some SOP.

2) FFB = 100 / TF = 38 : good too but more heavy to hold, the reactions are a bit smoothed for me with less accurate

3) FFB = 75 / TF = 75 : It's strange isn't the compromise between) 1 and 2), it's too heavy and too smooth

4) FFB = 25 / TF = 150 :
very bad, it is too soft, imprecise and Additionally the curve saturates

I guess that tastes in FFB are different for racers, also make these small test is quick to find that one favorite.

I have the bias to think that having TF=100 ( give by default by pCars's calibration ) facilitates calculations of precision for the software, more than sending stronger forces to the wheel. With its double a belt gear, the tx has anyway power for resell

thanks for your reading

sorry translate from french by bing, have fun with pCars

( xBoxOne,TX, 28GT, 3PA pro )

PTG Ty1er Ward
20-07-2015, 01:06
This next part is courtesy of PTG Ty1er Ward. Remember you need to leave your TX base on 900. The Formula below is how you get true steering ratio change, without changing it physically on the base.

This formula works best if the rim you using on your TX, matches the rim of the car in game. F1 rim for cars with F1 style rim. GTE rim for cars with traditional round rims. Example, using F1 rim on Bentley GT3, using the formula. I got 7.5:1 (wrong 360 formula answer due to incorrect F1 rim). That was completely wrong & way off. I put GTE rim on my TX. Do the Formula again, I got 10.0:1 (360 with GTE rim, correct answer from formula). Now that's more like it.

Nice one!!!! With the F1 Rim TX driver defaulting to 360 on PC and me bouncing back and forth between PC and Xbox I completley missed that one. It makes total sense that it works that way on XBox. Now I understand why it didn't work with the Ginetta G40 I was helping someone with- I was using the F1 Rim at the time and he had the GTE. Good catch :)

nissan4ever
20-07-2015, 04:06
Nice one!!!! With the F1 Rim TX driver defaulting to 360 on PC and me bouncing back and forth between PC and Xbox I completley missed that one. It makes total sense that it works that way on XBox. Now I understand why it didn't work with the Ginetta G40 I was helping someone with- I was using the F1 Rim at the time and he had the GTE. Good catch :)

Yeah, TX is always 900 default on Xbox One, regardless of the rim :)

It really does help if rim on your TX matches style of rim on car, in the game. In regards to the formula being dead on accurate.

inthebagbud
20-07-2015, 07:37
nissan

From your opening thread am I reading right that you have dropped overall FFB

"FFB is now 76 along with Tire Force is 38"

nissan4ever
20-07-2015, 10:23
nissan

From your opening thread am I reading right that you have dropped overall FFB

"FFB is now 76 along with Tire Force is 38"

Yeah, that's correct

Anything I post is strictly a suggestion, as far as the physical FFB & Tire Force numbers goes. The other numbers from the Force Feed Back Calibration page I shared, appear to get rid of steering deadzones/play with the your TX Wheel. You will need to experiment to find what you truly like, in regards to FFB & Tire Pressure numbers.

Side note, to get numbers for both soft clipping. Go all the way right, then come back to number I posted.

Dynomight Motorsports
20-07-2015, 10:33
FYI....
If you have problems turning on your TX wheel make sure you plug and unplug the "Break-away" connector. There are common problems with that. I too had an issue and called Thrustmaster. They couldn't figure out the problem, but I'm a technician by trade, so I just troubleshot all my connections and that is first place to look. My wheel would boot up, but then the lights would go out and be dead. Each time I plugged it into the USB it would calibrate then die. Now that I spliced that connection out it works great.

Pikamark
20-07-2015, 21:50
Nissan now you've edited the first page on the tyre ffb page are all your settings default now apart from tyre force being 38?

nissan4ever
20-07-2015, 23:10
Yes, I left everything default on the tire force page, except the Tire Force number. I'm trying to find what feels right for me. No, it's not 38.

I just want this page to show a new TX owner the correct way of setting their wheel up for Project CARS. I no longer will post actually set up numbers. There's plenty of threads to help with that. Lots of great discussion there.

Olijke Poffer
21-07-2015, 07:50
And? Is the default suits your needs?

Ixoye56
21-07-2015, 10:09
Can someone explain how the two deadzone settings works in the FFB page?

nissan4ever
21-07-2015, 12:19
And? Is the default suits your needs?

Yup, no oscilation or clipping.

Olijke Poffer
21-07-2015, 12:23
Yup, no oscilation or clipping.
Is this the answer on my question? :)

nissan4ever
21-07-2015, 12:30
Is this the answer on my question? :)

Yes

SweeetFA
21-07-2015, 12:40
Are you still using Deadzone removal falloff.? :)

nissan4ever
21-07-2015, 13:55
Are you still using Deadzone removal falloff.? :)

No, it's default.
Deadzone Removal Range 0.0
Deadzone Removal Falloff 0.01

As a matter of fact, I've left everything on that page at its default value, except Tire Force (which you set to your personal preference). My wheel preforms great & is very smooth/responsive. The default numbers for the TX are just fine on Force Feedback Calibration page (page with Tire Force).

Schnizz58
21-07-2015, 17:24
Can someone explain how the two deadzone settings works in the FFB page?
Yes. Sometimes the wheel can feel "sloppy" when driving straight and this feature adds in extra force near 0 of rotation to tighten up the feel. There are two parameters to adjust, the range and the falloff. The range specifies how wide the extra boost is (in other words over how much wheel rotation it will apply) and the falloff is how quickly it falls back to 0 outside of the range. Too much DZR can create a feeling of a "notch" in the center of the wheel.

Pikamark
21-07-2015, 18:01
Out of interest if I reset the settings on my tx to default while I have been messing with ffb do I have to re calibrate every time or is it just the presets that reset?
Thanks

Ixoye56
21-07-2015, 18:33
Yes. Sometimes the wheel can feel "sloppy" when driving straight and this feature adds in extra force near 0 of rotation to tighten up the feel. There are two parameters to adjust, the range and the falloff. The range specifies how wide the extra boost is (in other words over how much wheel rotation it will apply) and the falloff is how quickly it falls back to 0 outside of the range. Too much DZR can create a feeling of a "notch" in the center of the wheel.

Thank's for your answer, you almost have to be an computer engineer to play this game :confused:

nissan4ever
08-09-2015, 09:04
Out of interest if I reset the settings on my tx to default while I have been messing with ffb do I have to re calibrate every time or is it just the presets that reset?
Thanks

If you reset the TX in game at the calibration area, then yes. You will need to recalibrate the wheel.

nissan4ever
24-09-2015, 19:18
New firmware, V50 now available.

V50 update gives you the option to force your fan to run the whole time you have wheel powered up.

2pfspiff
24-09-2015, 19:25
New firmware, V50 now available

is there a noticeable improvement over v49?

nissan4ever
24-09-2015, 19:28
218926

Olijke Poffer
24-09-2015, 19:59
Time to update I guess. ;)

nissan4ever
24-09-2015, 20:32
Time to update I guess. ;)

I think I'll leave mine "forced" with V50.

STEELJOCKEY
25-09-2015, 02:46
Might turn my on for racing and practice, leave it on auto when cruising the menus

nissan4ever
26-09-2015, 01:01
I just leave mine on "Forced". When i'm done with my session, I'll let the wheel stay plugged up for 2 or 3 mins. Then I unplug usb & wall cord. That's what I'll do, post V50 firmware.

yusupov
26-09-2015, 01:35
when u guys run the install do you get a notification to remove all thrustmaster drivers? and then you run it after that?

thats what i did & im still on v49. tried to update in the profiler, says i am up to date. cant figure out what im missing with the DL from TS site.

nvm, i tried reading the instructions..:rolleyes:

nissan4ever
26-09-2015, 05:22
when u guys run the install do you get a notification to remove all thrustmaster drivers? and then you run it after that?

thats what i did & im still on v49. tried to update in the profiler, says i am up to date. cant figure out what im missing with the DL from TS site.

nvm, i tried reading the instructions..:rolleyes:

You need to go to Thrustmaster Support page.
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=12&fid=83&pid=366&cid=15
Download new firmware there. Follow PDF instructions you download from that same web page. You shouldn't have any problems.

Olijke Poffer
26-09-2015, 07:17
I think I'll leave mine "forced" with V50.

Yeah me too I think. On the other hand, it makes an awfull lot of noise when the fan is blowing constantly.

nissan4ever
26-09-2015, 13:18
Yeah me too I think. On the other hand, it makes an awfull lot of noise when the fan is blowing constantly.

The fan on mine really isn't that loud. However, on the plus side. Whenever I'm gaming I usually have on these & they do great noise cancellation.
219028
I definitely don't hear my fan on the TX at all or the squeaky gas pedal from my T3PA pedals when wearing them ;)

yusupov
26-09-2015, 13:44
ive not even heard my fan once, but my rooms also white noise city

Olijke Poffer
26-09-2015, 15:03
The fan on mine really isn't that loud. However, on the plus side. Whenever I'm gaming I usually have on these & they do great noise cancellation.
219028
I definitely don't hear my fan on the TX at all or the squeaky gas pedal from my T3PA pedals when wearing them ;)

Lol.. I'm gaming in our living room. So my wife will not be happy when the fan is blowing in the wind. Although she never complain. I'm a lucky bastard.. ;-))

FACT0RY PIL0T
29-09-2015, 00:51
Anyone know if a TX can be reflashed as a T300?

yusupov
29-09-2015, 00:55
sincerely doubt it unfortunately since thats the whole point of having two different wheels.

FACT0RY PIL0T
29-09-2015, 01:14
sincerely doubt it unfortunately since thats the whole point of having two different wheels.

Well I'm thinking it can, the base hardware servo is the same I thought. But its getting the program or way to flash it would be the roadblock.

2pfspiff
29-09-2015, 02:57
when u guys run the install do you get a notification to remove all thrustmaster drivers? and then you run it after that?

thats what i did & im still on v49. tried to update in the profiler, says i am up to date. cant figure out what im missing with the DL from TS site.

nvm, i tried reading the instructions..:rolleyes:

The Thrustmaster updater deleted my old V49 update and the thrustmaster software then it reinstalled the V50 software unto my computer.