View Full Version : Brake Temp questions - Front vs Rear

29-05-2015, 13:33
This is the first game I've had that allows you to manage brake temps. I have figured out how to manipulate the temps by using the brake balance and ducts. I'm wondering if there are any hard and fast rules about brake temps.

For example, is there a minimum and maximum range for temps? How hot is too hot, how cold is too cold?

Should front brakes be hotter than rear, or vice versa, and by how much? Or should I be adjusting balance until they are heating up evenly?

Or is it vastly different depending on the car?

Should finding a way to get all four brakes in the "green range" be a priority, or is it better for them to stay in the blue range to prevent any chance of overheating?

Any insight would be useful, thank you in advance!

Edit: I do not use ABS or any other assists, I know that matters.

29-05-2015, 13:42
Manage your brake temps with brake pressure as well, I generally aim for anywhere between 700-1000F temp hope this helps

Edit: Green is where you want your brakes optimal temp. How evenly temp is going to be based on bias, depending on the track and how you want the car to brake, generic for abs assists theres alot involved

Umer Ahmad
29-05-2015, 13:46
If the fronts lock you'll just kind of sail straight ahead.

If the rears lock the back-end will want to whip around front.

I therefore generally run *slightly* hotter fronts.

29-05-2015, 13:58
Depending on your braking style, brakes can be a very valuable handling tool. Like Umer said, briefly above.

It can (and probably should/will) differ by car, but in general I prefer a neutral (50/50) or slightly to rear bias (60r-40f or up to 70r-30f) in my brakes with a pressure between 80-100% on a loadcell (I just use 100% when playing with pad because I use ABS anyway when playing with pad)

This is more effective for left foot braking/trailbraking techniques where you balance the car through the corner with your feet.

For a more standard braking style, you might have more front bias, allowing you to jump on the brakes, release, turn, and fire out of the corner without much balance.

Remember that how you brake also affects other things, like the attitude of the car when it turns into the corner (Front bias puts more weight on the front of the car via weight transfer under braking, for example)

This is all important if you're serious about brake temperature and wear management! You need to understand your comfort level and driving style so you know which biases will produce the most uniform results and least wear! If you trailbrake with too much front bias, you might end up really burning up the front brakes and if you just stomp on the brakes with too much rear bias, not only will you perhaps spin out, but you'll bake the rear brakes.

To manage them, find out how you like to drive most and then set up the car around that. Usually you may want to start with a less aggressive bias (55-60f/45-40r) and as the race goes on, keep adjusting the bias back or front to keep the brakes uniform. Be warned however that in FWD cars and some ERS cars, no matter what you do, you will always have a disadvantage with either the front or rear brakes being warmer by design. If you're looking for four corner balance, you will find it difficult in those cars.

Temps themselves vary between cars, but anything between 800f and 1000f in a racecar should be reasonably okay.

29-05-2015, 15:16
Thanks guys. So far I have learned:

Temps should be 700-1000. How the brakes feel is the most important factor. Balance depends on track and driving style and how you want the car to behave when braking and turning-in. Whether fronts or rears are warmer will vary, although slightly warmer fronts are typically safer, and on some cars it can't be helped that one end is warmer.

Last night I was tuning Formula C, and I ended up putting the pressure at 88%, closing the ducts all the way to 8%, and moving the bias to 48f/52r. These were significantly different from the default and I wanted to make sure I was on the right track. I ended up with the front brakes reaching about 700 and the rears reaching about 640 under heavy braking, with no lock-ups or step-outs. I couldn't get them any warmer, but I think it's because I was at Laguna Seca, and that track is very easy on the brakes. So I think I did okay.

30-05-2015, 02:15
The spring and damper package has a marked effect on weight transfere thus enabling good tyre adhesion from light braking in corners to hard stops. Dynamic camber effects the efficiency to. My training rig had temps over 1300 today front and rear! It kept the tyres warm nicely! They didn't go red and worked a treat. The game developers said all the brake models used in the game give adequate performance and upgraded where necessary! Just watch the grab on some, as they warm up!

31-05-2015, 17:36
I'll regularly run my brakes warm-ish on F1 and LMP1 cars (~550-850C/1000-1500f!) but haven't done long enough races to really affect brake wear.

Temps haven't caused an issue but a few times Ben has got on the blower and told me go easy (at Hockenheim and Barca GP) because my front temps hit >1000c (1800f). I pay little or no attention to rear brake temps because my bias is usually 60f/40r and rears stay cool enough.

I've had more issues retaining front tire temps than brake temps so I set the brake ducts below 30% usually to help retain front tire temperatures.

01-06-2015, 10:01
I did a full fuel run and the FA brakes could reach nearly 3000F after a while they started to turn grey! I needed the duct virtually closed for temp management. They had great bite and a reduction in brake pressure was needed to maintain the balance. Hot brakes wear quicker, you'll have to drive like an idiot to fade the brakes on most of the cars in this game. I would worry more about keeping them warm if I were you. Gmtc