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View Full Version : [RESOLVED] Fanatec CSP nightmare - bug or crap pedals



TrevorAustin
02-06-2015, 23:50
After loads of reading and thought I got some CSP V2s, seemed great, look awesome and feel amazing. Came with a GT2, but I preferred ny TX, so plugged them in via USB.

But having a nightmare.

Often on starting the PC, look at game devices and any 2 of the 3 pedals are showing flickering readings, without being pressed. Removing and replacing the USB connection ALWAYS fixes this.

But then when I go into the game, I calibrate, no problem, then when I'm starting the race or practice I have either no throttle or usually much reduced throttle, or a couyple of times brake partially on.

Quit game and go back to control panel game devices and usually the brake shows a flickering approx. 30% USB reset fixes.

Then back into the game recalibrate and can play for hours, until today. Throttle changing several times per lap, and control panel always looks fine until I start playing the game then probl;em, back to CP and pedal travel registering. Throughout this a USB reconnect always fixes this.

I have used WD40 on the throttle due to a slight sticking and squeaking, which has now gone.

I'm almost certain this is nothing to do with the game, and is just coincidental as that's pretty much all I do on thios PC, although I would appreciate any feedback from CSP users if they have come across this and any fixes for it. I'm uising the latest beta Fanatec drivers as it's the only way to stop the disconnect/reconnect cycle on 8.1

Sadly I think it's probably the circuit board?

Back to the TP3a for now, which feel awful in comparison, but they work!

JimStick1
03-06-2015, 01:53
This is almost definitely a pedal issue. Fanatec Clubsports, both v1's and v2's, have some history of this exact problem. Get in touch with their support and see how you go.

HBR-Roadhog
03-06-2015, 02:48
I have had some issues with my throttle over the years. What I have did in PCars that seems to have solved it there is that when I calibrated the throttle I only pressed the pedal down to about 1/2 inch or so from the metal and I have not noticed an issue since. Prior to that I was seeing that one time I go pedal to metal and get 80%, another time 90% another time 100% after doing the calibration this way I have gotten 100% everytime. I have had the issue in Forza more in 3 than the others but have not noticed an issue in GT 5 or 6. Also when the pedal is attached to the wheel power off the wheel and back on again usually corrects the issue.

I have not yet tried my pedals connected directly via USB

Morgan Henstridge
03-06-2015, 03:27
I also just bought CSP V2 and had similar issue with the throttle.

Turns out the hex screw holding the magnetic sensor was loose. Tightened that up and all good now, stays calibrated correctly.

205891

This shows the screws to tighten for the Clutch and accelerator if they have the issue.

HBR-Roadhog
03-06-2015, 04:09
Interesting, I'll have to check the throttle linkage on mine now. I wonder if it is the same on the V1 pedals as that is the ones I have.


btw I had the squeaky throttle too, I little shot of oil on it about 2 years ago and still not a sound out of it.

Shaun1984
03-06-2015, 05:38
I've also had the Clubsport V2 since new and after about 8 months they started doing exactly what you're talking about. In my case the hex/Allen was tight so I contacted Fanatec support and they suggested I need a new hall sensor, they sent me 1 and in the packet you get both hall sensors. 1 for the clutch and 1 for the throttle, 5 minutes to install and better than new, I only changed the throttle as that was my only issue

Morgan Henstridge
03-06-2015, 06:32
Interesting, I'll have to check the throttle linkage on mine now. I wonder if it is the same on the V1 pedals as that is the ones I have.


btw I had the squeaky throttle too, I little shot of oil on it about 2 years ago and still not a sound out of it.

That image is from Fanatec support, and i believe it is a V1 set as the brake pedal does not have the Shock absorber thing on it.

TrevorAustin
03-06-2015, 07:27
Ah, interesting, thanks guys, i have registered a call with their support so I'll see what happens.

Magnet definitely tight. The hall sensor was my initial suspect, but the fact that any of the pedals could show the partial activation made me think pcb.

I'll see what support suggests. Can't believe how inferior the t3pa feels in comparison, but at least they work:)

TrevorAustin
03-06-2015, 13:38
Right, some interesting info here!

I've just got off a long chat with the truly excellent fanatic support repl Constantin, could not have been more helpful and knew his product inside out.

This is evidently a known issue when the pedals are installed onto a metal rig and it's a grounding problem! I suggested maybe buying the spare PCB and Hall sensors anyway. He said that there should be no need and was quite confident it was an earthing problem. So I need to isolate my pedals from the rig pedal tray somehow, maybe using Velcro instead or a sheet of wood.

Be great if this is all it is though.

HBR-Roadhog
03-06-2015, 14:33
Interesting... I built my rig out of wood so no grounding issues for me.

If you can find a thin sheet of rubber, vinyl flooring, or even plastic that should insulate you just fine.

TrevorAustin
03-06-2015, 14:55
Interesting... I built my rig out of wood so no grounding issues for me.

If you can find a thin sheet of rubber, vinyl flooring, or even plastic that should insulate you just fine.

Yep, although then the mounting bolts through the rig and pedals would short out, or presumably it will move about, I hate my pedals moving even a mm, and I have my brake very firm.. So I'm thinking either, wood mounted to the pedal plate then the pedals screwed into the wood, or thick Velcro/double sided tape between pedals and plate.

Andrew_WOT
03-06-2015, 14:55
Right, some interesting info here!

I've just got off a long chat with the truly excellent fanatic support repl Constantin, could not have been more helpful and knew his product inside out.

This is evidently a known issue when the pedals are installed onto a metal rig and it's a grounding problem! I suggested maybe buying the spare PCB and Hall sensors anyway. He said that there should be no need and was quite confident it was an earthing problem. So I need to isolate my pedals from the rig pedal tray somehow, maybe using Velcro instead or a sheet of wood.

Be great if this is all it is though.

Are you out of warranty, shouldn't they just send you replacement part. I am not sure about grounding, even if you use some insulation between pedals and rig, mounting bolts will still go through straight to metal on pedals.

Lawndarts
03-06-2015, 15:12
The grounding theory is very interesting... I have had this issue off and on with the clutch on CSP v1, they are a few years old now, And oddly it's not as big an issue if I plug them into the wheel, likely due to lower resolution. I'm definitely metal on metal minus the rubber foot pads but the screws go straight through... And I put my chassis on casters, so it's off the ground on a wood floor.

But wouldn't a usb cable ground them?

What would be a super simple way to test the grounding? tape a wire from anything mettle to something else grounded like the PC case?

TrevorAustin
03-06-2015, 15:13
Are you out of warranty, shouldn't they just send you replacement part. I am not sure about grounding, even if you use some insulation between pedals and rig, mounting bolts will still go through straight to metal on pedals.

Nope, no warranty, they are second hand and no idea how old they are. I'm sure they would have if it was necessary, but I suggested buying the parts and they said not to, so they must be pretty confident.

If you look a couple of posts down I've covered how I'll try and isolate them.

HBR-Roadhog
03-06-2015, 15:16
Yep, although then the mounting bolts through the rig and pedals would short out, or presumably it will move about, I hate my pedals moving even a mm, and I have my brake very firm.. So I'm thinking either, wood mounted to the pedal plate then the pedals screwed into the wood, or thick Velcro/double sided tape between pedals and plate.

Hmm I guess the mounting on the V2 must be different than mine then. If you look at that photo on the first page you will see 4 little black areas with holes in them. This is where the V1s would be bolted down and that is a non conductive material it would just be the metal part that needs to be isolated from the metal frame of the rig.

TrevorAustin
03-06-2015, 15:21
Hmm I guess the mounting on the V2 must be different than mine then. If you look at that photo on the first page you will see 4 little black areas with holes in them. This is where the V1s would be bolted down and that is a non conductive material it would just be the metal part that needs to be isolated from the metal frame of the rig.

If that's the case that will make my life easier:) I'll check as soon as I got home, the underneath though is definitely covered with something but I didn't think the top was, your description sounds very similar. I'm now wondering if it's the sort of lipped foot tray that's causing it, and maybe in use it flexes down to the corresponding lip on my rig, I will investigate when I get home.

all4bespinnin
03-06-2015, 15:55
I just replaced the load cell on my V2s. What it costs for one off Fanatec site I was able to buy eight off ebay lol. I'm still getting a free one though since I'm still under warranty. My pedals are bolted down to 1/2" MDF and the MDF bolted down to PVC with U clamps. They are pretty rigid and I feel no flexing during hard braking.

TrevorAustin
03-06-2015, 20:08
Mine are now on MDF and "touch wood" haha, no issues yet today at all. Maybe they were right!

TrevorAustin
03-06-2015, 20:09
I just replaced the load cell on my V2s. What it costs for one off Fanatec site I was able to buy eight off ebay lol. I'm still getting a free one though since I'm still under warranty. My pedals are bolted down to 1/2" MDF and the MDF bolted down to PVC with U clamps. They are pretty rigid and I feel no flexing during hard braking.

Which load cell do I need to buy? If they are that cheap I'll get them and the hall sensor anyway.

TrevorAustin
03-06-2015, 22:46
Well it looks like it's fixed. Spent a couple of hours isolating it all, and it was better but not right.

Fanatec control properties showed the brake partially activated after about an our, so I decided to screen cap for the support team, turned my rift off and immediately the brake pedal cleared and the throttle and clutch partially activated! Turned it back on and they swapped, then back, etc. plugged into the same powered USB hub as my wheel, mouse Bluetooth adapter and gear changer.

SO I ran another active USB extender into the PC, and attached the pedals directly to that and perfect for over 2 hours. Looks like they were right about interference but a very unlikely source!

all4bespinnin
03-06-2015, 23:18
Which load cell do I need to buy? If they are that cheap I'll get them and the hall sensor anyway.

I bought two packs of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-pcs-Body-Load-Cell-Weighing-Sensor-Resistance-strain-Half-bridge-Total-200kg-/291121350051?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c82f45a3

You will need some 3 pin micro jst connecters since these come with bare wires. You can also pick them up off ebay or if you have a local hobby shop they probably carry them. Just trim some of the wire and solder them on and they are good to go.

TrevorAustin
04-06-2015, 00:11
Thanks, aren't the existing ones 4 pin though?

Have you replaced the shock on yours? Wow!

gotdirt410sprintcar
04-06-2015, 00:26
I just had this problem with the gt3rs wheel and g27 pedals. I also have a set of g25 pedals plugged them in don't have a issue with the g25 pedals but I did see that about the grounding out problem. I have my pedals inverted on a wheel stand pro using wood floor and a old wheel stand pro that it is mounted on. And they are still in the case just with out the top part on works good.

all4bespinnin
04-06-2015, 01:01
No they are three pin connectors. I still need to do the shock mod. I researched it a while back but never got around to it.

TrevorAustin
04-06-2015, 07:06
No they are three pin connectors. I still need to do the shock mod. I researched it a while back but never got around to it.

Shock mod has made a really massive difference, definitely recommend it. Are you in the uk? I had to buy a pair, could send you the 2nd one?

all4bespinnin
04-06-2015, 07:30
That is very kind of you but I'm located in the US. I appreciate the offer. I can pay for shipping if you are interested in doing that but no worries if its too much trouble.

TrevorAustin
04-06-2015, 08:16
Would be very happy to do that if you wanted, but it would probably cost you more in shipping than you can buy them for. Want me to link you to the UK ebay item so you can let me know? Cost me 33 delivered in the UK for two, and I think they are a worldwide available part. Even come ready filled.