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View Full Version : Huge Deadzone on my T300rs pedals, any better on the T3PA?



muscular
04-06-2015, 13:38
Its a pity the expensive T300 comes with pretty bad pedals. I'm alright with the materials used, but I cannot ignore the deadzone on it. Not just on the game on PS4, but when u
calibrate it on the software on the PC, the deadzone is noticeably bad, especially the brakes for mine. I have to move quite a small distance before anything registers. Now, I have
an opportunity to purchase a T3PA from my local distribution with stocks coming in this week, however I do not really have a need for the clutch and wants to know if
there is any bad deadzone on the brake and gas pedals. I also understand that both T300 and T3PA pedals are similar in built quality and materials, but the deadzone on the
default T300 is hard to live with.

Luke Townsend
04-06-2015, 13:59
I have the basic T300 pedals too at the moment and possibly looking to upgrade, not for the deadzone really but to get some progressive resistance.

Deadzone in brake pedals is a strange thing perhaps - in all the road cars I've every driven there is quite a lot of deadzone in them (clutch pedal too, not so much throttle) and I've never thought about it, just got used to it. Maybe racing cars are different, but possibly there is deadzone in a real brake pedal? Interesting.

Roger Prynne
04-06-2015, 14:00
No problems like that with my G25 so I would imagine it's a T300 thing maybe.

BigDipper
04-06-2015, 14:15
No problems here with the deadzone.
Did a brake "mod" for progressive resistance.
Works really nice and kosts only 8

LondonCri
04-06-2015, 14:20
It is starting to be well documented now , there is a deadzone in both pedals (it was on mine).
I followed the guide by another member ( who managed to successfully get rid of the deadzone) and managed to do it myself. I can't find the link atm but it's in this forum.
It's not an impossible job BUT...
As i stated in another forum , there's no guarantee on how well/bad the wires are welded to the potentiometers and if even one of them comes loose , the pedal won't work anymore , which is what happened to me.
Fortunately i have the tools and know how to fix that , not necessarily everyone else does , so beware.
Also , we are talking about micro-welding almost . The wires are very thin and the potentiometers edges they are attached to are small , so delicate job required. The pedals work perfectly now , no deadzone , instant engage and full travel.

Having said all that , your wiring might be perfect for all I know , mine certainly wasn't and 2 wires came loose , so I thought I'd warn people.

I'm upgrading to T3PA too , simply for better feel .

muscular
04-06-2015, 14:26
It is starting to be well documented now , there is a deadzone in both pedals (it was on mine).
I followed the guide by another member ( who managed to successfully get rid of the deadzone) and managed to do it myself. I can't find the link atm but it's in this forum.
It's not an impossible job BUT...
As i stated in another forum , there's no guarantee on how well/bad the wires are welded to the potentiometers and if even one of them comes loose , the pedal won't work anymore , which is what happened to me.
Fortunately i have the tools and know how to fix that , not necessarily everyone else does , so beware.
Also , we are talking about micro-welding almost . The wires are very thin and the potentiometers edges they are attached to are small , so delicate job required. The pedals work perfectly now , no deadzone , instant engage and full travel.

Having said all that , your wiring might be perfect for all I know , mine certainly wasn't and 2 wires came loose , so I thought I'd warn people.

I'm upgrading to T3PA too , simply for better feel .

Thanks for the heads up, it seems the T3PA has a longer throw as well, allowing the driver to gauge more precisely, the amount of brake or gas applied. Again, its a shame the T300 default pedals had this deadzone problem, else I would have lived with the material and weight of it as I have to mount firmly on my Apiga wheel stand.

LondonCri
04-06-2015, 14:37
Thanks for the heads up, it seems the T3PA has a longer throw as well, allowing the driver to gauge more precisely, the amount of brake or gas applied. Again, its a shame the T300 default pedals had this deadzone problem, else I would have lived with the material and weight of it as I have to mount firmly on my Apiga wheel stand.

Sorry it wasn't on this forum , in case you were interested , here's the link: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/thrustmaster-t300rs-racing-wheel-thread.311143/page-36#post-10301777

All You need , really , is a screwdriver and a lot of patience because it takes a lot of manual adjustments to get it just right.
The hardest part is closing the box again believe it or not !
My pedals are so much better now , it was worth the agony I had to go through.

Let me know if you want to try , and i?ll see if i can help since i've done it already , before you spend more money.
I went T3PA pro simply because of adjustable pressures per pedal and other little things

jimbo_ac
04-06-2015, 14:38
Buy the t3pa pedals. I like them. Especially because of the clutch. You should buy a th8a too. It's much fun with an h shifter. Very hard to drive but awesome. With the old cars you have to heel and toe shift. Hard to learn but it's worth it.

_MB_
04-06-2015, 14:45
Sorry it wasn't on this forum , in case you were interested , here's the link: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/thrustmaster-t300rs-racing-wheel-thread.311143/page-36#post-10301777

All You need , really , is a screwdriver and a lot of patience because it takes a lot of manual adjustments to get it just right.
The hardest part is closing the box again believe it or not !
My pedals are so much better now , it was worth the agony I had to go through.

Let me know if you want to try , and i?ll see if i can help since i've done it already , before you spend more money.
I went T3PA pro simply because of adjustable pressures per pedal and other little things

Did this with mine and yes getting the cover back on is a pain as you have to do this a few time unless you get lucky finding that sweet spot 1st time

LondonCri
04-06-2015, 14:47
Did this with mine and yes getting the cover back on is a pain as you have to do this a few time unless you get lucky finding that sweet spot 1st time

Yeah my fingers still hurt....lol
I obv wasn't lucky !

knight01
04-06-2015, 16:47
Brake mod by User: WyldAnimal is here (With Pictures):
http://community.us.playstation.com/t5/Gran-Turismo-Series-General/Review-of-the-Thrustmaster-T300RS/m-p/44731325/highlight/true#M672522

wyldanimal
04-06-2015, 20:03
Its a pity the expensive T300 comes with pretty bad pedals. I'm alright with the materials used, but I cannot ignore the deadzone on it. Not just on the game on PS4, but when u
calibrate it on the software on the PC, the deadzone is noticeably bad, especially the brakes for mine. I have to move quite a small distance before anything registers. Now, I have
an opportunity to purchase a T3PA from my local distribution with stocks coming in this week, however I do not really have a need for the clutch and wants to know if
there is any bad deadzone on the brake and gas pedals. I also understand that both T300 and T3PA pedals are similar in built quality and materials, but the deadzone on the
default T300 is hard to live with.


Brake mod by User: WyldAnimal is here (With Pictures):
http://community.us.playstation.com/t5/Gran-Turismo-Series-General/Review-of-the-Thrustmaster-T300RS/m-p/44731325/highlight/true#M672522

I was just going to add that to this thread..

When I got my T300, ( back on November 8th, 2014 ) my Brake Pedals didn't even work.
I thought about sending them back, but after waiting for them... I decided to jump in and fix them..
Besides, I was going to use my G27 Pedals anyway, once my ricmotech pedal adaptor arrived..

This is a continuation from that thread with the Adaptor
http://community.us.playstation.com/t5/Gran-Turismo-Series-General/Review-of-the-Thrustmaster-T300RS/m-p/44732542#M672543


This is further down the thread that details the Gear Mesh adjustment.
http://community.us.playstation.com/t5/Gran-Turismo-Series-General/Review-of-the-Thrustmaster-T300RS/m-p/44949614#M676950

wyldanimal
04-06-2015, 20:16
Did this with mine and yes getting the cover back on is a pain as you have to do this a few time unless you get lucky finding that sweet spot 1st time


Yeah my fingers still hurt....lol
I obv wasn't lucky !

I used one of the clamps like this one..
Just don't squeeze the clamp too tight.. Use to just hold the shell together so you get all the screws in place.

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-ratchet-bar-clamp-spreader-46806.html
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daddyboosive
04-06-2015, 21:28
https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=143&v=cEIi0_hV2Bs

Bouyo
05-06-2015, 01:29
I'm using the t3pa with the conical brake mod and it's a game changer. I can't begin to think about how hard it would be to be limit braking without it. I've got the brake mod set for maximum resistance, so basically when I touch the brake pedal it hits the conical rubber and I get a solid (but progressive) feel. Also I've calibrated the brake pedal in PCars to register full braking when I have to push hard on the conical rubber so I'm in no doubt about how much I'm giving it. I'm sure you could achieve a similar thing with a squash ball and some patience, or just spend the $100 and be done with it.

motowiz
05-06-2015, 09:27
I have a T300rs wheel and used it for 2 months with the standard pedals. I have upgraded my set with t3pa pedals and there's a huge difference and improvement. One of the things that was frustrating for me was the brake pedal of the standard pedal set, what I have done to improve was place a ruber to decrease the pedal dead zone (placed it in a way that the pedal couldn't come all the way up when it was not pressed). But this was only a try out, i found out that T3pa is a lot better and with no dead zone. So that's a must have upgrade to the t300rs.

daddyboosive
05-06-2015, 09:32
You can adjust the potentiometers in the standard so you get no deadzone whatsoever in the brake. There's a how to somewhere on the net. I'll try and find it for you. Then all you need to do is add some rubber I'm increase resistance.

*edit


Take off the pedals first, then remove the screws underneath one by one. Don't forget the one hiding under where the cable comes in!

When you remove the top part have a good look around and know what you're looking at. If you hold down the base at this point and put one of the pedals through its travel you will see how they work. This is where the problem lies!

The potentiometers have been set incorrectly and all we have to do is turn them through their travel to the correct location so the pedals engage them at the appropriate point.

Make sure you've gone to ts.thrustmaster.com and downloaded the firmware updater. In here there is a calibration tool so you can connect your T300 to your laptop/pc and see exactly where the potentiometers need to move. Connect your pedals to your pc before you start fine tuning, and press the pedals through their full travel too. Now you can start fiddling with the pedal box. Note that the top half presses the pedals about an inch or so before they should start to engage. This is part of the reason you need to adjust and re-adjust until you get it right.

Just so you know, mine pedals are set perfectly now. 100% free of deadzones, instant engagement on touching them and full travel on both. Perfect. However, I won't lie, this took 5-10 attempts of opening and closing the pedal box fully to achieve. You must have patience!

But trust me it's worth it.

Setting the potentiometers takes some trial and error but the most annoying part is getting the top back on. The most effective way I found is to post the pedals through the top half then turn the box over so the pedals are touching the floor (preferably carpet). Carefully line up the two half's at the bottom part of the box and apply a small amount of pressure while guiding the brake spring into its correct location. It needs to go over the nobble on both the base and the pedal itself. Bit fiddley but essential. When everything is lined up properly place your knee in the centre of the base and apply pressure while guiding the two halves together. Now they're in place you have both hands free to insert screws. Screw in as many as you can from this position then remove your knee to do the remaining ones low down.

Job done! :)

jhonatas
05-06-2015, 13:40
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jhonatas
05-06-2015, 13:41
My pedals are perfect now. I usei shockers from radio control cars 1/8 buyed in ali express. Sorry for my English.

Diablo944
05-06-2015, 14:09
I Am using the t300 pedals and until recently hadnt realised how bad the deadzone actually was, though now my issues with the formula A suddenly make sense. I modded the lack of feel in the brake based on what others had done, using a piece of pipe lagging (bigger than the piece shown in the picture, i only put that in shot to show the foam type), the piece of lagging is held in place by good old duct tape, which does a grand job of initially deforming when the pedal was used and holds the foam nicely in place.

As to the dead zone though, i used a couple of cable clips i found lying around in the garage. One is clipped to the case of the pedals and holds the brake pedal pretty much perfectly off the case giving maybe a millimetre of travel now before responding. While the throttle side has the clip stuck to the pedal with the little curl at the end of the clip butting up to the case edge and in a 'looks like it was made for the task' moment, it is also bang on for perfectly removing the deadzone. I was genuinely amazed that both, although orientated differently, are actually perfect or the job.
I didnt want to mess about taking things apart,preferring a more mechanical restriction of return movement space, so thanks to a couple of cable clips, all is good, even if it does look a bit heath robinson. Zero issues with calibration and no risk of broken wires206263
The clips are the same as this by the way
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