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Rendrag72
06-06-2015, 07:30
If someone has had this issue or know how to resolve it I would be grateful.

I have the T300RS on the PS4, I plug it in and it calibrates as normal, load up project cars and choose any car on any track. The first lap or two the FFB feels amazing with plenty of weight on the wheel. But after that the FFB fades away. I can still feel the car but the steering goes really light and there is no resistance.
If I then turn off PS4 and turn it on again, the wheel will not calibrate, it spins violently both ways almost just knocking itself off the wheel stand pro. I then have to plug into the pc and run the calibration software which fixes it. Plug it back into PS4, it calibrates as normal, launch project cars and agin it feels great for a while then does exactly the same thing again and will not calibrate. Also after the FFB has weakened, if you flick the wheel clockwise it spins violently, but does not do this anti-clockwise.

I have updated firmware to V24.
I have the FFB set to 100% in project cars.
I have calibrated the wheel by turning it full lock and then to 900.

Also if I use on PS3 in F1 2014, I can do 40 laps with no noticeable drop in FFB.

Does anyone have any suggestions.

BigDipper
06-06-2015, 07:35
A friend of mine had the same thing.
He had to send it back to Thrustmaster.
I'm going to stay away from updating my wheel for now.

JimBowL_
06-06-2015, 07:46
If someone has had this issue or know how to resolve it I would be grateful.

I have the T300RS on the PS4, I plug it in and it calibrates as normal, load up project cars and choose any car on any track. The first lap or two the FFB feels amazing with plenty of weight on the wheel. But after that the FFB fades away. I can still feel the car but the steering goes really light and there is no resistance.
If I then turn off PS4 and turn it on again, the wheel will not calibrate, it spins violently both ways almost just knocking itself off the wheel stand pro. I then have to plug into the pc and run the calibration software which fixes it. Plug it back into PS4, it calibrates as normal, launch project cars and agin it feels great for a while then does exactly the same thing again and will not calibrate. Also after the FFB has weakened, if you flick the wheel clockwise it spins violently, but does not do this anti-clockwise.

I have updated firmware to V24.
I have the FFB set to 100% in project cars.
I have calibrated the wheel by turning it full lock and then to 900.

Also if I use on PS3 in F1 2014, I can do 40 laps with no noticeable drop in FFB.

Does anyone have any suggestions.

I have the same exact problem.. EXACTLY the same. Idk what it is.

My guess is the game not the wheel.. just sit back and wait and feel when the patch is release bud.. for now I wouldn't play projects..

Not being an A-hole or cry baby about the game, but I'm worried of my wheel being damage.. before my wheel calibrate gentle when it locks full left an right. NOW and since I played project cars my wheel been really really harsh. Slams when I plug it in my ps4. Goes crazy during races, being in pit box.. there's more but I'm not gonna sit here typing a full novel lol

I would just lay off project cars til patch.

J4M35_R
06-06-2015, 08:49
I have the same wheel as you and it's not broken. Project Cars lets you tweak the ffb and if you have it too strong the thermostat kicks in and the ffb weakens to stop overheating.

In the first couple of weeks i used Jack Spades bumps ffb tweaks and had the same problem with the wheel going lite, but a week ago I reset everything to default and haven't had any problems since. Other games don't have this problem because they don't let you turn the ffb up beyond what they recommend.

My advice is to reset everything to default and wait for the update which is going to adjust the ffb anyway, then start tweaking the ffb little by little until you reach a limit that the wheel likes.

This is off the thrustmaster website /support :-


[ENGLISH]
NOTE REGARDING COOLING FAN OPERATION AND MOTOR COOLING
 The wheel’s cooling system is composed of a heat sink and a fan.
 A thermostat monitors the wheel’s internal temperature.
 When you are using the wheel in a game:
- The cooling fan starts up when the wheel has reached a certain temperature.
(= after a few minutes of gameplay, depending on the strength of the Force Feedback effects used)
- The power of the Force Feedback effects automatically decreases as soon as the wheel
reaches a much higher temperature level (to protect the motor). The power of these effects
automatically increases as soon as the temperature slightly decreases.
 When you’re done playing: due to the motor’s thermal inertia, the cooling fan continues to
operate until the temperature drops below the fan’s startup level. Your wheel has been
designed in this way in order to facilitate cooling, and to protect the motor.
(= this may take from 5 to 45 minutes, depending on the temperature reached while using the wheel in a
game)

Jack Spade
06-06-2015, 09:23
I have the same wheel as you and it's not broken. Project Cars lets you tweak the ffb and if you have it too strong the thermostat kicks in and the ffb weakens to stop overheating.

In the first couple of weeks i used Jack Spades bumps ffb tweaks and had the same problem with the wheel going lite, but a week ago I reset everything to default and haven't had any problems since. Other games don't have this problem because they don't let you turn the ffb up beyond what they recommend.

My advice is to reset everything to default and wait for the update which is going to adjust the fbb anyway, then start tweaking the ffb little by little until you reach a limit that the wheel likes.

This is off the thrustmaster website /support :-


[ENGLISH]
NOTE REGARDING COOLING FAN OPERATION AND MOTOR COOLING
 The wheel’s cooling system is composed of a heat sink and a fan.
 A thermostat monitors the wheel’s internal temperature.
 When you are using the wheel in a game:
- The cooling fan starts up when the wheel has reached a certain temperature.
(= after a few minutes of gameplay, depending on the strength of the Force Feedback effects used)
- The power of the Force Feedback effects automatically decreases as soon as the wheel
reaches a much higher temperature level (to protect the motor). The power of these effects
automatically increases as soon as the temperature slightly decreases.
 When you’re done playing: due to the motor’s thermal inertia, the cooling fan continues to
operate until the temperature drops below the fan’s startup level. Your wheel has been
designed in this way in order to facilitate cooling, and to protect the motor.
(= this may take from 5 to 45 minutes, depending on the temperature reached while using the wheel in a
game)

The wheelīs fading is a common thing especially on the lower tier type of consumer wheels it prevents the motor overheating. Some people have unrealistic expectations
and try to turn their lofi wheel into an expensive servo wheel by increasing Tire Force to absurd levels. Besides other things I designed my settings to transmit an optimized
FFB level to the wheel by keeping clipping very moderate, if itīs too much for your type of wheel cause the motor gets too hot simply reduce Tire Force.

J4M35_R
06-06-2015, 10:20
I wasn't bashing your settings btw, i think they are excellent but just too much for my wheel. I will be using them again after the update and using tyre force to find a setting to get the best out of them without overheating and shortening the life of my wheel.

Alot of people, myself included have dived straight in and cranked the settings up not knowing the limits of the wheel and when the ffb goes weak they think the wheel is broken. In my opinion the t300rs is a good wheel but for top end results you need to be looking at the Fanatec ClubSport Wheel Base v2 + wheel.

Rendrag72
06-06-2015, 16:30
Thanks for the replies, I will check tyre force. I know the wheel is entry level but I'd expect it to work for more than a couple of minutes before over heating. I had a Logitech driving force pro, which I considered to be a cheap wheel and never had any issues with that and the force feedback was just as strong. If anyone can recommend what to set FFB strength and tyre force strength.

Marimbakat
06-06-2015, 17:14
My two Cents...

My T300 seems to have lost a slight bit of FFB. I want to say it was after the last update, but ended up having me bump my FFB up to 80%. I don't really feel drop off throughout a race though.

MLT24
06-06-2015, 19:34
The wheelīs fading is a common thing especially on the lower tier type of consumer wheels it prevents the motor overheating. Some people have unrealistic expectations
and try to turn their lofi wheel into an expensive servo wheel by increasing Tire Force to absurd levels. Besides other things I designed my settings to transmit an optimized
FFB level to the wheel by keeping clipping very moderate, if itīs too much for your type of wheel cause the motor gets too hot simply reduce Tire Force.

The T300rs is a servo wheel. And at $400 it is not lower end. Add great TM shifter and new pro pedals, your st $700 investment. I see it as cheaper option to the Fanatec servo option. My T300rs is doing great. Race for 6 hours at a time with no issue. Sucks it sounds like a few sre having a simple thermostat issue.

LordDRIFT
06-06-2015, 20:03
I've had this happen when I pause the Game sometimes. There are sync issues I'm guessing.

Jack Spade
07-06-2015, 05:39
The T300rs is a servo wheel. And at $400 it is not lower end. Add great TM shifter and new pro pedals, your st $700 investment. I see it as cheaper option to the Fanatec servo option. My T300rs is doing great. Race for 6 hours at a time with no issue. Sucks it sounds like a few sre having a simple thermostat issue.

Oh really?

JoeDogs
07-06-2015, 07:18
Dont use your weel on PC!! Its brake your weel :( Wait until the Project Cars get update. I have TRS 500. And i dont play PC for now.

LotusTeam
07-06-2015, 13:10
By fixing the FFB=100, for T300 users, remember to lower the tire force to 65~70, and yes...FFB fading is 1 of the biggest problem when you use it on projectCARS, I don't have any issue on GT6 (strong FFB setup 6, 8)...

I hope somehow its just a programming issue from pCARS, like too many signal being sent to the wheel, and problems would go away when coming patch is released...I wish....

LordDRIFT
07-06-2015, 14:11
Are you guys experiencing permanent fading?

LotusTeam
07-06-2015, 17:17
Fading is not permanent on T300, let the cooling fan do the job, when it stops, full strength comes back

C6ckneyGeezer
07-06-2015, 20:21
Don't forget the center spring can't be turned off on the T300 yet, which is why FFB feels so strong. Also the reason why your wheel could be getting hot a turning FFB down as a counter measure.

I could well be wrong, just seems like the center spring plays a huge part for T300 users.
Am waiting for all the "ffb is not there and is weak" when the game fixes the center spring issue.

Roll on patch 1.4 whoop whoop!

LordDRIFT
07-06-2015, 22:33
It can't be overheating. I've lost force within a couple minutes of initially playing. Had to reboot system to correct

ChrisK
08-06-2015, 05:57
I started having this issue yesterday for the first time. Ffb weakened considerably after about 6 laps of spa. Then it went into shutdown at lap 10. No response at all. I have jack spades setting using the fy+sop lateral settings. Tyre force is reduced to 70. Once it has a break it returns to normal but then goes thru the loss of force cycle after a few laps. My lap times are done by over 2s a lap once the ffb weakens.

The day before yesterday I ran 3 consecutive 15 lap races without an issue. Clearly there is an issue with project cars and thrustrmaster. There are too many failures and issues for this to be just a wheel issue and too many people having issues with very expensive wheels when the wheel works fine with other games.

I'll wait for the patch before I do anything. If the patch doesn't fix things, Ill be contacting the department of fair trading in Australia and lodging an official complaint against the developers and thrustmaster. This game has been billed as compatible with the t300 and it's been anything but compatible with regular resets required and now this. Not on.

Jack Spade
08-06-2015, 07:41
I started having this issue yesterday for the first time. Ffb weakened considerably after about 6 laps of spa. Then it went into shutdown at lap 10. No response at all. I have jack spades setting using the fy+sop lateral settings. Tyre force is reduced to 70. Once it has a break it returns to normal but then goes thru the loss of force cycle after a few laps. My lap times are done by over 2s a lap once the ffb weakens.

The day before yesterday I ran 3 consecutive 15 lap races without an issue. Clearly there is an issue with project cars and thrustrmaster. There are too many failures and issues for this to be just a wheel issue and too many people having issues with very expensive wheels when the wheel works fine with other games.

I'll wait for the patch before I do anything. If the patch doesn't fix things, Ill be contacting the department of fair trading in Australia and lodging an official complaint against the developers and thrustmaster. This game has been billed as compatible with the t300 and it's been anything but compatible with regular resets required and now this. Not on.

Iīm on a CSW v2 (expensive?) I never had any game/wheel related issues you refer to.

ChrisK
08-06-2015, 07:52
Iīm on a CSW v2 (expensive?) I never had any game/wheel related issues you refer to.

Well that's happy days for you. Just cos you don't have any issues doesn't mean that they don't exist for other users.

I'm only talking about the t300 cos this is a t300 thread and that's the wheel I have. And yes, it is expensive. Maybe for you it's not, but for some of us it's a significant investment.

And it's not just the wheel, once we invested in the wheel, many of us also invested into the TM ecosystem which is the t3pa pro pedals and th8a shifter, that's running me at a grand all up. They both work fine but are essentially useless if the wheel is not working properly. I did this on the basis that this wheel specifically would work project cars and ps4.

Perhaps rather than pipe in with your good news story of how it's all working great for you, exercise some empathy for those of us that don't have products working as advertised. It's like you're insinuating that this is OUR FAULT that this is happening.

How would you feel if your wheel and pedal set needed to be constantly reset and then losing ffb strength ? I suspect you'd be just as frustrated and pissed off as we are.

Jack Spade
08-06-2015, 08:59
Well that's happy days for you. Just cos you don't have any issues doesn't mean that they don't exist for other users.

I'm only talking about the t300 cos this is a t300 thread and that's the wheel I have. And yes, it is expensive. Maybe for you it's not, but for some of us it's a significant investment.

And it's not just the wheel, once we invested in the wheel, many of us also invested into the TM ecosystem which is the t3pa pro pedals and th8a shifter, that's running me at a grand all up. They both work fine but are essentially useless if the wheel is not working properly. I did this on the basis that this wheel specifically would work project cars and ps4.

Perhaps rather than pipe in with your good news story of how it's all working great for you, exercise some empathy for those of us that don't have products working as advertised. It's like you're insinuating that this is OUR FAULT that this is happening.

How would you feel if your wheel and pedal set needed to be constantly reset and then losing ffb strength ? I suspect you'd be just as frustrated and pissed off as we are.

I did refer to the high lighted statement in your post suggesting issues on expensive wheels in combo with this game. If you consider your wheel expensive too why this statement in the first place?
Other than that I surely understand your frustration due to stuff not working as expected, AFAIK the upcoming 1.4 patch will cure lots of issues hopefully yours as well.

jhonatas
08-06-2015, 10:12
I was going through it with my t300rs using fy + sopLateral, today I am using classic settings or 66% and it does not happen more. The steering wheel is perfect even after long runs. I believe that setting fy + sopLateral forces the wheel of some extreme form, as using classic settings with ff at 100% and tire force up to 115% the wheel never had this problem.

LotusTeam
08-06-2015, 11:55
That's because u didn't drive the car crazy enough...

To feel the FFB fading, it's easy...try below(FFB=100 TF>100, no compression)

Run EvoX or BMW 1M on California Highway, drive them to the end within 8'05, then it should be considered as crazy control... Especially when you are running through stage 1

Now...I ensure you that FFB will fade within a lap or 2...

Go on and u will understand the frustration, if u are still feeling okay, then u must have got a pretty good copy of T300 or....your hands just can't feel the weakening at all....

Jack Spade
08-06-2015, 13:22
I had this fading on the CSW v1 too thatīs the main reason I upgraded to a V2, this one doesnīt fade. At high Tire Force levels and heavy compressing settings the motor has
no more time to recover and stays hot so the wheel starts fading. Indeed you may be better off with the 66% settings as the forces in the critical range of 50°-120°
wheel turning angle are not as strong as in the other versions.

Snake OilerX
08-06-2015, 16:12
If your playing on the ps4.I would not update the firmware.

JoeDogs
08-06-2015, 16:25
Is it possible rollback firmware??

Fight-Test
08-06-2015, 16:32
I run Jacks 66% and can run for hours on t300 no probs. I ran about 8 hours straight with no probs yesterday. No fade at all. The only time I have had issues is when I plugged wheel in after game was booted up. game must be off when u plug in wheel. Ps4 can be on but game not open.

zennmeister
08-06-2015, 20:03
I've been having the same issues the past 2 weeks. The diminishing FFB is slight at first but after 14 days it has become much more pronounced during play. In my case, it only takes 1-2 minutes before FFB is reduced to roughly 10% of where it's supposed to be...yes, in the same car during a race. I tested the wheel on other games (Crew and Driveclub) and the almost non-existent FFB is evident there too so I don't believe it's PCars specific. Bumping up all feedback "to eleven" has little to no measurable effect. I've had the t300 for almost 6 months without a hitch until the past couple of weeks where I've had a litany of small but troubling issues, FFB notwithstanding.

Thrustmaster sent me the latest calibration tool and maybe this coupled with (yet another) firmware flash/bootloader reset remedies my problems. Frankly at this point I'm not too hopeful but fingers cross anyways.

LordDRIFT
08-06-2015, 20:30
I've been having the same issues the past 2 weeks. The diminishing FFB is slight at first but after 14 days it has become much more pronounced during play. In my case, it only takes 1-2 minutes before FFB is reduced to roughly 10% of where it's supposed to be...yes, in the same car during a race. I tested the wheel on other games (Crew and Driveclub) and the almost non-existent FFB is evident there too so I don't believe it's PCars specific. Bumping up all feedback "to eleven" has little to no measurable effect. I've had the t300 for almost 6 months without a hitch until the past couple of weeks where I've had a litany of small but troubling issues, FFB notwithstanding.

Thrustmaster sent me the latest calibration tool and maybe this coupled with (yet another) firmware flash/bootloader reset remedies my problems. Frankly at this point I'm not too hopeful but fingers cross anyways.

This troubling. I had no issues at first either but the loss of FFB is increasing in occurrence and time to occur has been shortening. Not sure if their is a pattern but this has me worried.

zennmeister
09-06-2015, 00:21
Without getting too long-winded I should explain what's happening in my case. Reflashing and resetting the wheel DOES solve the FFB but not the calibration issues I've had. Everytime I've gone to my PC for a fix, the next day I find the wheel is back to its broken state on the PS4...nothing has seemed to stick, including the FFB. And before anyone mentions the ps3/ps4 switch, I've got that covered :) The past week I've been sick of using the bootloader every time I want to play on the console, and as a consequence my FFB rapidly declines.

I just finished using the new calibration tool TM sent me, coupled with the the standard issue bootloader/driver/blah blah blah...
I'll give it a day or three before I report any insights.

LordDRIFT
09-06-2015, 01:02
I don't have any calibration issues.

ChrisK
09-06-2015, 01:22
This troubling. I had no issues at first either but the loss of FFB is increasing in occurrence and time to occur has been shortening. Not sure if their is a pattern but this has me worried.

you should be cos that's the exact same pattern that my wheel has been going thru. after lap 1 now i have lost almost all FFB. it used to be after 5 or 6 laps. i contacted TM about it today. based on the experience of many members here, i don't expect a quick response.

i don't have a calibration issue either per se. my wheel is always centered when it works. although crazy wheel between sessions has become nromal. if i have a session without my wheel locking to 90deg and needing to be reset, it is the exception to the norm.

LordDRIFT
09-06-2015, 02:59
you should be cos that's the exact same pattern that my wheel has been going thru. after lap 1 now i have lost almost all FFB. it used to be after 5 or 6 laps. i contacted TM about it today. based on the experience of many members here, i don't expect a quick response.

i don't have a calibration issue either per se. my wheel is always centered when it works. although crazy wheel between sessions has become nromal. if i have a session without my wheel locking to 90deg and needing to be reset, it is the exception to the norm.

Crazy wheel is probably due to sync iissues.i had it initially but started to shut the system down all the way instead of using rest. I hear killing the USB power while in rest does the same thing but I haven't confirmed.

ChrisK
09-06-2015, 03:38
i don't use rest mode at all. still happens. if i race say 5 races in a night. that's normally 10 sessions, (quali and race), i will have wheel issues for say 7/10 of those sessions. sometimes its both sessions in a race met, sometimes just quali, sometimes just race. its totally random.

Rendrag72
09-06-2015, 06:17
Without getting too long-winded I should explain what's happening in my case. Reflashing and resetting the wheel DOES solve the FFB but not the calibration issues I've had. Everytime I've gone to my PC for a fix, the next day I find the wheel is back to its broken state on the PS4...nothing has seemed to stick, including the FFB. And before anyone mentions the ps3/ps4 switch, I've got that covered :) The past week I've been sick of using the bootloader every time I want to play on the console, and as a consequence my FFB rapidly declines.

I just finished using the new calibration tool TM sent me, coupled with the the standard issue bootloader/driver/blah blah blah...
I'll give it a day or three before I report any insights.

It's weird how some people are having no problems at all and others are, I wonder wether it's to do with how old your wheel is. I brought mine in January as I was worried they would be in short supply when the game was released. I did not use it until PC was released. Mine is going back to Thrustmaster now, although I'm not hopeful that it will fix the issue. Hopefully I'll get it back when the patch is released, until then there's no Project Cars for me.

Soulbr1nger
10-06-2015, 01:00
So alot of people have issue's with there t300.
The FFB get's weaker after a couple of rounds.
But no one of the developers answered they are aware of this.

Are they working on this maybe with patch 1.4 or?

JimBowL_
10-06-2015, 01:14
Check this out about whag happen to my t300rs photos included... http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?30486-Project-CARS-Damage-T300RS

ChrisK
10-06-2015, 03:04
So alot of people have issue's with there t300.
The FFB get's weaker after a couple of rounds.
But no one of the developers answered they are aware of this.

Are they working on this maybe with patch 1.4 or?

Must be part of their NDA. :rolleyes::rolleyes:

You think theses guys would admit that cos of the game glitches, wheels are getting wrecked ? No way will they admit it. so they give cute answers that say nothing and make generic statements about "improvements" while treating us like mushrooms.

Thrustmaster has no such qualms about pointing the finger directly at SMS. Their email to me says...and I quote...

We thank you for contacting us regarding your request.

Please test the device in a different game and in the Windows operating system:

1. press the "Windows" button + "R" button
2. enter "joy.cpl" and click "OK"
3. double click the device name and go to "Properties"
4. test all functions of the device, put all forces settings to 100% and make a test of the test forces.

If all functions work fine, the problem is related to the game. We would suggest that you contact also the developer of the game in this case.

Aub
10-06-2015, 07:45
Funny really yesterday was the first time i changed my FFB to the jack spade settings, first time due to a shoulder injury so the light default was fine for me.

So as others have said it was heavy for 2 or 3 laps then went light, i havent plugged it into my pc since i got it 3 months ago. So i assume its just a heating issue? Ive used it on iracing loads with no problems but in PC it was heavier than iracing. So what setting do i need to change i assume its the main setting thats default 75 i moved that to 100 so i guess i need to change that back?

ChrisK
10-06-2015, 08:42
Latest update from TM...

Regarding your T300RS.
Thanks for coming back and thank you for the detailed information.

The problem is most likely related to the game. There is no way the motor is too hot after 5 minutes of gameplay. You can check some forums, there are other people having the same problem with this particular game combined with the T300, but for some of them the wheel works fine in other games. For that reason we would kindly ask you to contact the game developer regarding your issue and wait for the patch they will release soon. The new patch should solve the issue you're having.

Thank you for your cooperation and understanding.

jblake21
10-06-2015, 11:33
Well, i have had issues like others on here with my wheel. It's the tr300 ferrari gte wheel. Had it around three weeks and playing project cars and gt6 was great. Then the force feedback got extremely weak. unlike others on here saying theirs drops out in the session even if i put the ff up to 100 on p cars it doesn't make a difference. its weak in gt6 as well now. also on startup when the wheel calibrates it used to do the normal left center then right. now it slams to the right every time with an immense amount of force. then winds back and continues to slam to the right. you have to manually stop the wheel doing this and wind it to the left. i have to guide it round as it goes to the right. then it centers itself. Im worried the wheel has broke. contacted playseat who i got the wheel and playseat from but have not received a reply.

gufazi
10-06-2015, 14:52
Well, i have had issues like others on here with my wheel. It's the tr300 ferrari gte wheel. Had it around three weeks and playing project cars and gt6 was great. Then the force feedback got extremely weak. unlike others on here saying theirs drops out in the session even if i put the ff up to 100 on p cars it doesn't make a difference. its weak in gt6 as well now. also on startup when the wheel calibrates it used to do the normal left center then right. now it slams to the right every time with an immense amount of force. then winds back and continues to slam to the right. you have to manually stop the wheel doing this and wind it to the left. i have to guide it round as it goes to the right. then it centers itself. Im worried the wheel has broke. contacted playseat who i got the wheel and playseat from but have not received a reply.

This happened to me too. I used this motor calibration file from Thrustmaster ( https://sites.google.com/site/descargasforzamotorsport/archivos/Motorcalibration.rar?attredirects=0&d=1 ). Follow the instructions here ( https://sites.google.com/site/descargasforzamotorsport/archivos ).

BUT. It started happening again, and again.

I gave up and contacted Thrustmaster. Even linked a video. Nothing. NOTHING FROM THEM.

I ended up exchanging it with a freindly retailer even though it was way beyond the return date (but well within the warranty date).

Good luck.

bmanic
10-06-2015, 17:25
This is an unfortunately known issue with Thrustmaster wheels. I remember similar reports when the T500 came out. It's quite funny actually that they blame the game.. when in fact every single FFB call goes through the driver, which is of course created by Thrustmaster. Probably the motor is just too weak or they turned it up too much. It's not the games nor the consumers fault if Thrustmaster allows it to get too hot and fade. All of this could be controlled through their end through the driver.

Fight-Test
10-06-2015, 17:47
Did u guys with problems redo the firmware? The wheels that were made before the new firmware but not sold till after got flashed to new firmware before selling and these have known issues. A reflash has been fixing them.

Also u can recalibrate the wheel to center at anytime. Idk what it is on the t300 wheel but on the f1 rim it's the two outside switches at bottom (bop and start I think) and mode. Just hit all three together after u turn wheel 100% left then right then hold center and hit three buttons together and done. Unlike the t500 u can do as much as u want.

lexmonteiro
10-06-2015, 19:23
Unfortunately with me the story of T300rs ended badly. This began with the weakening of forcefeedbak only Pcars of PS4, then the auto-calibration began to fails too, so I used the software motorcalibration and that worked only for a few hours. After disconnecting the PS4 the problem came back again. Then it started to happen also in the PC and PS3, weakened the forcefeedback... etc, in the end I could not play anything else. The last time I turned on my wheel , it has erratic movements as if he were dying, so I had to return it to the seller, the problem is: I do not know if they will have to send me another, is missing in the market and believe it will take weeks to send me another. Now what I need to know, I will be safe to use my new steering wheel with Pcars the PS4?

LordDRIFT
10-06-2015, 21:24
:(

..

ChrisK
10-06-2015, 22:25
This is an unfortunately known issue with Thrustmaster wheels. I remember similar reports when the T500 came out. It's quite funny actually that they blame the game.. when in fact every single FFB call goes through the driver, which is of course created by Thrustmaster. Probably the motor is just too weak or they turned it up too much. It's not the games nor the consumers fault if Thrustmaster allows it to get too hot and fade. All of this could be controlled through their end through the driver.

This is precisely the sort of misinformation and ignorance that leads to companies failing to take ownership and responsibility for their issues and leaving customers to try and sort out the mess. Too hot after 5 minutes ? Please. Utter nonsense. How do you explain the fact that the wheel works fine for hours playing other games ?

We shall soon see how big a problem project cars is with some wheels. If the wheel works perfectly with project cars after the 1.4 patch then we can safely say the responsibility is 100% on SMS for this debacle.

Prontopac
11-06-2015, 02:42
If your playing on the ps4.I would not update the firmware.

Why? I updated the Thrustmaster T300RS firmware and it solved a lot of problems on my PS4. I will however say that at default wheel settings via Project Cars are set very hard. I realize that driving a race car is physically challenging, but relaxing while driving a truck is not my idea of fun. One might consider lowering some wheel settings to fine tune a good feel, but that does take time. And in lieu of the patch, one might take the time to record wheel settings especially since each car will have different characteristics and feel.

jenslaursen89
11-06-2015, 09:22
This happens to me aswell..

Aub
11-06-2015, 11:52
Im gonna plug mine into the pc tonight update it and reset it to default settings and see if it goes back to how it was

unairiva
15-06-2015, 22:56
Im gonna plug mine into the pc tonight update it and reset it to default settings and see if it goes back to how it was

Before patch the issues persist..

dark_knight44
15-06-2015, 23:33
I did reset the wheels on pc... download patch 1.4 on ps4 and everything was resolve... but after 2 days... its coming back the FFB is fading after less then 10 minutes.....

Everything is set to default..... my god SMS work on your BETA game!

dark_knight44
16-06-2015, 03:57
I did reset the wheels on pc... download patch 1.4 on ps4 and everything was resolve... but after 2 days... its coming back the FFB is fading after less then 10 minutes.....

Everything is set to default..... my god SMS work on your BETA game!

At least the center spring issue is now gone. When i calibrate the wheel it doesnt want to brake my fingers anymore... i wonder if its because my ffb is dying damn!

hitmanvega
16-06-2015, 07:51
Centre spring issue has not been fixed yet. Likely with next patch.
At least the center spring issue is now gone. When i calibrate the wheel it doesnt want to brake my fingers anymore... i wonder if its because my ffb is dying damn!

Ally_bassman
16-06-2015, 10:09
[QUOTE=Fight-Test;980409]Did u guys with problems redo the firmware? The wheels that were made before the new firmware but not sold till after got flashed to new firmware before selling and these have known issues. A reflash has been fixing them.QUOTE]

This would make sense..... I got my wheel last week, and when unboxing it I noticed that I had a couple of those circular sticker tabs that they use to secure down the box tabs... So it could well have been opened before to update the Firmware...as when I checked mine it was already at V24.

To be honest though, I've only experience slight fade since changing onto the Ferrari F1 rim and since the 1.4 patch. So I'm unsure to my exact cause? I have my FFB to 100 and TF to 100

lexmonteiro
16-06-2015, 14:20
Because of this issue I returned the T300rs to the seller, he had to change my wheel, I'm expecting the new one arrive, I hope has come up with the updated firmware.
Ally_bassman, It may be because of the difference between the diameter between F1 and the original?

muscular
16-06-2015, 17:13
My advice to everyone here to tune down FFB and Tire Forces. Also in pit box values such as fy etc. etc. to reduce the auto-centering. Better to have a lesser experience than to have no experience.

Sankyo
16-06-2015, 18:00
This is precisely the sort of misinformation and ignorance that leads to companies failing to take ownership and responsibility for their issues and leaving customers to try and sort out the mess. Too hot after 5 minutes ? Please. Utter nonsense. How do you explain the fact that the wheel works fine for hours playing other games ?

We shall soon see how big a problem project cars is with some wheels. If the wheel works perfectly with project cars after the 1.4 patch then we can safely say the responsibility is 100% on SMS for this debacle.

This game developer blaming really needs to stop. Basically what you're saying is that SMS has to find out by trial and error how strong they can set the FFB in pCARS in order to not have the wheel overheat, plus they'll need to test every manual configuration of the FFB that any user can set and make sure that the wheel doesn't overheat in that situation too. Utter bollocks. So a hardware manufacturer puts out a piece of hardware that can be overheated/damaged by a game requesting FFB forces that the wheel actually offers to the user/developer. A piece of hardware must be usable within the working range that it offers, or it has to restrict that working range. Offering a working range but then telling a game developer (indirectly) to only use 70% of that range is just bad hardware (and software/firmware) design.

LordDRIFT
16-06-2015, 18:10
I'll say it again I'm running tf100/ffb 75. My wheel has stopped fading. FFB is still strong with usable headroom in in car settings if I wish to yank my shoulders out. Problem solved.

unairiva
16-06-2015, 20:39
I'll say it again I'm running tf100/ffb 75. My wheel has stopped fading. FFB is still strong with usable headroom in in car settings if I wish to yank my shoulders out. Problem solved.

Stock adjust

LordDRIFT
16-06-2015, 20:41
Stock adjust

?...

unairiva
17-06-2015, 14:06
?...

Sorry for my english. I say those are original parameters. Ff75/tt100 i try this later. Thanks

LordDRIFT
17-06-2015, 14:44
I think so. I think ffb my default to 70 , but I may have accidentally shifted it when scrolling down. The dpad on the T300 is garbage.

Fight-Test
17-06-2015, 20:55
My advice to everyone here to tune down FFB and Tire Forces. Also in pit box values such as fy etc. etc. to reduce the auto-centering. Better to have a lesser experience than to have no experience.

is the auto centering effecting driving? Im not even sure im feeling what you guys are talking about. Just give me a wheel attached to something that goes fast and Ill adapt. Who cares if it pulls a little to center unless its effecting your actual driving which It could be, but im not having difficulties. Ive driven my racing kart with bent rims, steering arms the works. I drove once holding the wheel abotu 50 degrees to one side just to be centered. Racers race, adapt and drive. They will get it fixed.

seamastergmt
18-06-2015, 01:36
I had the same problem, I called Thrustmaster, they directed to a special calibrating tool they emailed to me. Requires the removal of the wheel from the base. Seems to have solved my problem.

dark_knight44
18-06-2015, 03:19
I had the same problem, I called Thrustmaster, they directed to a special calibrating tool they emailed to me. Requires the removal of the wheel from the base. Seems to have solved my problem.

What is your wheel? t300rs? IF yes... Can you send me the calibrating tool via e-mail : Lutinjaune@hotmail.com

Ill appreciate!

morpwr
18-06-2015, 11:01
This game developer blaming really needs to stop. Basically what you're saying is that SMS has to find out by trial and error how strong they can set the FFB in pCARS in order to not have the wheel overheat, plus they'll need to test every manual configuration of the FFB that any user can set and make sure that the wheel doesn't overheat in that situation too. Utter bollocks. So a hardware manufacturer puts out a piece of hardware that can be overheated/damaged by a game requesting FFB forces that the wheel actually offers to the user/developer. A piece of hardware must be usable within the working range that it offers, or it has to restrict that working range. Offering a working range but then telling a game developer (indirectly) to only use 70% of that range is just bad hardware (and software/firmware) design.


You have to look at it from the consumers view also.Most of us have other games and the issues only happen with this one.If you bought a defective tv you wouldnt call your cable company.That being said I dont think its just on you guys.I think there are compounding issues going on here.I chose not to play until the centering spring issues is resolved thats my choice some others didnt and im not blaming them either.I get it i want to play too.That being said you guys have done some great things here and im sure nobody wanted to have the issues youre having.Im sure the the forums are tough right now with the complaining.Hopefully you guys will get the wheel issues straightened out and im sure the tone will change for those of us with them.I know id be happy just getting the centering spring off and be the first to say thanks guys when it happens.

Sankyo
18-06-2015, 11:10
You have to look at it from the consumers view also.Most of us have other games and the issues only happen with this one.
I understand that, but that still doesn't mean that people should draw the wrong conclusion ;)


If you bought a defective tv you wouldnt call your cable company.
Exactly :) If your TV develops dead pixels then you can't blame your cable company for broadcasting the wrong TV programs, so you shouldn't blame a game maker for a wheel hardware defect either.

I understand that the game made wheels run hard into their end stops which apparently broke them, but this is a situation that can occur not ust because of a bug but also due to normal gameplay (e.g. car crash FFB jolt when having the wheel turned almost to the full rotation range) or the user ramming the wheel into the end stop by turning the wheel himself. The wheel, firmware and software should be designed such that in such cases the wheel won't break.


That being said I dont think its just on you guys.I think there are compounding issues going on here.I chose not to play until the centering spring issues is resolved thats my choice some others didnt and im not blaming them either.I get it i want to play too.That being said you guys have done some great things here and im sure nobody wanted to have the issues youre having.Im sure the the forums are tough right now with the complaining.Hopefully you guys will get the wheel issues straightened out and im sure the tone will change for those of us with them.I know id be happy just getting the centering spring off and be the first to say thanks guys when it happens.
We already see praise for the patch 1.4 FFB improvements so for sure people will like it better and better after more of the current bugs are fixed. SMS are working hard to get it all done!

ChrisK
18-06-2015, 14:09
This game developer blaming really needs to stop.

Ahhh...why ? What a curious thing for you to say.


basically what you're saying is that SMS has to find out by trial and error how strong they can set the FFB in pCARS in order to not have the wheel overheat, plus they'll need to test every manual configuration of the FFB that any user can set and make sure that the wheel doesn't overheat in that situation too. Utter bollocks.

Yes, it would be utter bollocks if that's what I actually said. But it wasn't what I said at all. The wheel is NOT overheating after 2 laps. Sorry, that's just a myth. Not only was ffb disappearing after 2 laps but the wheel was going crazy before every session. Locking at wierd angles, failing to respond. You name it, it was happening.

Did this happen in any other ps4 game ? No. Did this happen plugged into a pc running the diagnostics ? No. Did the happen playing a pc sim ? No. Did the wheelbase even feel remotely hot ? No, not even warm. So you tell me...when faced with all that evidence how is the developer not responsible ? By what logic are you abdicating your responsibility in this ? I'm very curious to understand.

Oh...and one last piece of evidence...patch 1.4 comes out and there are zero crazy wheel issues anymore and no ffb loss anymore for me anyway. Hmmm....what a remarkable coincidence ! I should buy a lottery ticket !


So a hardware manufacturer puts out a piece of hardware that can be overheated/damaged by a game requesting FFB forces that the wheel actually offers to the user/developer. A piece of hardware must be usable within the working range that it offers, or it has to restrict that working range. Offering a working range but then telling a game developer (indirectly) to only use 70% of that range is just bad hardware (and software/firmware) design.

Save this sort of argumentative ramble for the trolls and juveniles. I'm a pretty smart bloke, you're going to need to articulate a coherent, fact based arguement if you are expecting me to seriously consider your point of view or for us to have a rational discussion.

The debacle of a launch and all its associated promises...I could swallow that if it was called a beta, if you didn't charge full price or if you gave a warning about potential issues. Heck, I'd even be prepared to cop it sweetly if you weren't all so damn arrogant about it and dismissive of your paying customers. Most of the staff here, and I exclude you from this now, believed the sycophants and fanboys and either ignored the issue altogether or made asinine, obtuse or smart elec remarks to any genuine concerns raised. Not the smallest, remotest form of contrition. Now that pisses me off quite frankly.

I'm very pleased with the wheel performance now. It actually works. Very, very happy. There are still loads of other bugs on the game that must be sorted which again, are developer issues. I consider myself very fortunate right now that I can play the game I paid for without wheel issues. Clearly there are still a issues for other wheel users which I hope will be corrected over time with further patches.

I'm not abusive nor am I irrational, but I will not have ian bell piss on me and tell me it's raining without, at the very least, bring able to express my point of view. Make of that what you will.

ChrisK
18-06-2015, 14:15
If you bought a defective tv you wouldnt call your cable company.

This isn't a relevant analogy. A relevant analogy would be...
If you bought a TV and all but ONE CHANNEL worked perfectly...would you consider the route cause to be the TV ?

unairiva
18-06-2015, 14:56
Antes era el debilitamiento, ahora mi t300 ha empezado a calibrarse mal al iniciar ps4. Que debemos hacer? Esperar un parche o devolver el volante? Es una putada muy gorda porque ya compre el cambio de marchas y los 3tpa...

abjones06
19-06-2015, 16:07
I understand that, but that still doesn't mean that people should draw the wrong conclusion ;)


Exactly :) If your TV develops dead pixels then you can't blame your cable company for broadcasting the wrong TV programs, so you shouldn't blame a game maker for a wheel hardware defect either.

I understand that the game made wheels run hard into their end stops which apparently broke them, but this is a situation that can occur not ust because of a bug but also due to normal gameplay (e.g. car crash FFB jolt when having the wheel turned almost to the full rotation range) or the user ramming the wheel into the end stop by turning the wheel himself. The wheel, firmware and software should be designed such that in such cases the wheel won't break.


We already see praise for the patch 1.4 FFB improvements so for sure people will like it better and better after more of the current bugs are fixed. SMS are working hard to get it all done!

Hi,

I'm not sure if it's a new issue or not. I have installed patch 1.4 but it felt strange on my t300rs FFB. I selected Quick Race mode with FocusRS on SilverStone International. After I raced 2~3 rounds with 2 laps for each round, I felt FFB of Fz/Mz became very strong. For example, I could feel the shock on my wheel while running on the normal road just like running over grassland. But after the end of this round, the FFB became normal in the next round. I felt it was a recursive behavior:

round1(normal) -> round2(normal) -> round3(Strong) -> round4(normal) -> round5(normal) -> round6(strong) ...etc

I'm not sure if it's related to FFB weakening problem of this thread or not, but I'm sure that there were indeed some issues about inconsistent FFB control.

TrevorAustin
19-06-2015, 17:37
This game developer blaming really needs to stop. Basically what you're saying is that SMS has to find out by trial and error how strong they can set the FFB in pCARS in order to not have the wheel overheat, plus they'll need to test every manual configuration of the FFB that any user can set and make sure that the wheel doesn't overheat in that situation too. Utter bollocks. So a hardware manufacturer puts out a piece of hardware that can be overheated/damaged by a game requesting FFB forces that the wheel actually offers to the user/developer. A piece of hardware must be usable within the working range that it offers, or it has to restrict that working range. Offering a working range but then telling a game developer (indirectly) to only use 70% of that range is just bad hardware (and software/firmware) design.

That's of course assuming that the email was ever really sent by thrustmaster.

I've got several emails from them, all in clearly very french vased english.

I also deal with many french and belgians speaking englush daily and i've yet to hear one say "no way " while using grammar typical of the poster too. Just saying:)

m3lover1
19-06-2015, 18:00
Mine definitely gets weak really quick. Doing practice mode in career, after the first two or three laps the ffb is already different, and by the fourth lap it feels very weak. Turning the wheel becomes much easier after several laps, compared to the first two laps. I mean I still kind of feel the road and the kerbs, but driving the car around the corners, turning the wheel requires much less force than before. I've tried numerous different settings, all Jack Spades, mix of bmanic's overall settings with Jack Spades car settings, and all the same. Feels good the first couple laps, then weakens a lot afterwards. Quite disappointing really.

I'm debating whether to delete the game and try the wheel pre-1.4 patch and see how it is. I only raced one race or so pre-1.4 as I got the wheel the same day the patch dropped, but if my memory serves me right the feel was good and constant throughout the race pre-1.4. Was 1.4 the first patch for ps4 after release?

ChrisK
19-06-2015, 23:19
That's of course assuming that the email was ever really sent by thrustmaster.

I've got several emails from them, all in clearly very french vased english.

I also deal with many french and belgians speaking englush daily and i've yet to hear one say "no way " while using grammar typical of the poster too. Just saying:)

I'd be quite happy to forward the emails from thrustmaster directly to Remco or Ian so they know what their business partners are saying about the issues. What I posted are direct quotes. Copy and paste.

You've never experienced it so by definition it must be false right ? Could you be any more simplistically anecdotal ? lol

I always find there are some sure signs of desperation from internet trolls. The absense of addressing the substance of posts and instead picking up typos and grammar. Now if it came from someone remotely intelligent it's probably fair game but when it comes from a stooge who's sole purpose on this forum is ensuring the cleanliness of the developers derričres...well let's just say...it's not something i take particularly seriously.

Just sayin'. :rolleyes:

morpwr
20-06-2015, 00:22
I'd be quite happy to forward the emails from thrustmaster directly to Remco or Ian so they know what their business partners are saying about the issues. What I posted are direct quotes. Copy and paste.

You've never experienced it so by definition it must be false right ? Could you be any more simplistically anecdotal ? lol

I always find there are some sure signs of desperation from internet trolls. The absense of addressing the substance of posts and instead picking up typos and grammar. Now if it came from someone remotely intelligent it's probably fair game but when it comes from a stooge who's sole purpose on this forum is ensuring the cleanliness of the developers derričres...well let's just say...it's not something i take particularly seriously.

Just sayin'. :rolleyes:


Now that's good stuff!

m3lover1
20-06-2015, 03:00
So looks like it's a PS4 issue? My brother's TX on xbox one doesn't fade like mine. My T300rs fades after lap 4, but his TX doesn't, and we are using same global ffb settings and car ffb settings

morpwr
20-06-2015, 12:50
So looks like it's a PS4 issue? My brother's TX on xbox one doesn't fade like mine. My T300rs fades after lap 4, but his TX doesn't, and we are using same global ffb settings and car ffb settings

The only difference is the centering spring is active on the ps4 when it shouldnt be.

daddyboosive
20-06-2015, 18:01
Does this only happen with certain cars? Set up my T300 for the first time yesterday and went on a free run with the GT3 Bentley. FFB was on 100 and everything was fine tbh. Didn't get any weakening or anything. Then I jumped on my career using the Ginetta G40 and it weakened after a couple of laps.

Sasquatch
20-06-2015, 21:35
Hello everyone!

I simply had a question as since 1.04 my T300RS has been... odd at best. It's not often. I've experienced with a slow weakening which I assume was simply the wheel dialing back because of heat. But again, it was not often at all and pre-1.04.

But I did a fairly long session today, four hours and change. Never once experienced a FFB weakening. But something more. Went into a career event (GT3 Euro @ Brno) and there would be no FFB at all. I do not have the wheel set to much FFB at all, 70 is one must know... but the wheel there was absolutely nothing there. This seemed to be remedied as immediately I backed out to the main menu and re-calibrated it and it was fine. It never happened again. Has this happened to anyone before?

Since this is a topic of the T300RS or if I could find the main thread for T300RS discussion... the only other thing is when I was playing online multiplayer (Atleast it was qualifying) and the option button decided to be pressed on it's own mid-corner.

TrevorAustin
20-06-2015, 21:59
I'd be quite happy to forward the emails from thrustmaster directly to Remco or Ian so they know what their business partners are saying about the issues. What I posted are direct quotes. Copy and paste.

You've never experienced it so by definition it must be false right ? Could you be any more simplistically anecdotal ? lol

I always find there are some sure signs of desperation from internet trolls. The absense of addressing the substance of posts and instead picking up typos and grammar. Now if it came from someone remotely intelligent it's probably fair game but when it comes from a stooge who's sole purpose on this forum is ensuring the cleanliness of the developers derričres...well let's just say...it's not something i take particularly seriously.

Just sayin'. :rolleyes:

Haha, i always find people who constantly feel the need to try and prove their intellectual superiority very funny, if not a little bit sad. You made me laugh again.

LordDRIFT
20-06-2015, 23:31
After the patch I left the ffb at 75 and had no fading. Today I fire up the Game and lateral feedback is all but gone and feed back in general is low and erratic . The wheel is a piece of shit. But just for giggles I'll fire up gt6 when I get home and see how it gets on.

ChrisK
21-06-2015, 02:10
Haha, i always find people who constantly feel the need to try and prove their intellectual superiority very funny, if not a little bit sad. You made me laugh again.

Given your rank on the intellectual scale, I'd imagine you'd laugh quite a bit then. Good for you. Pleased to see all that cleaning keeps you happy if nothing else.

LordDRIFT
21-06-2015, 02:39
Tried gt6. Wheel feels like a noodle. Dying a slow death. Now it won't Auto calibrate - just bangs about left and right. Looks like I'll be shelving the game til the g29 comes out. Very reluctant to drop the cash on a fanatec after this fiasco. The wheel narwhal made it to 3 weeks old. At least Logitech has proven reliability.

So what's the consensus? Crap wheel or did game crap out wheel?

ChrisK
21-06-2015, 04:54
Tried gt6. Wheel feels like a noodle. Dying a slow death. Now it won't Auto calibrate - just bangs about left and right. Looks like I'll be shelving the game til the g29 comes out. Very reluctant to drop the cash on a fanatec after this fiasco. The wheel narwhal made it to 3 weeks old. At least Logitech has proven reliability.

So what's the consensus? Crap wheel or did game crap out wheel?

That's a real bummer man. Sounds like your wheel has died for whatever reason. Is it not covered by warranty ? I can't tell you how lucky I feel that 1.4 completly resolved my wheel issues. A friend of our has had all sorts of wheel issues since 1.4 with a fanatec wheel whereas before he had no issues at all.

So that brings us to the next problem really...what's going to happen when patch 1.5 comes out ? Is it going to fix some wheels and screw others so we're in this cycle of frustration ? Is the ffb going to change again o we have to get used to another physics model ?

I'm happy with the t300 with the t3pa pedals although I think it's overpriced when you add the pedal set to be honest. I've only had it for 5 or 6 weeks though. Can't imagine logitech is going to prove much different. All wheels seems very hit and miss with project cars. Go to any other sim forum or play any other driving game and you just don't get any of these wheel issues. Certainly not the level of random inconsistencies.

Kev1eighty7
21-06-2015, 13:31
If your loosing FFB on t300rs ps4 then simply do a reset of the main contols and input wootballs settings and lower tyre force to 60% or less, also im using jacks 66% per car settings. I have done exactly that and mine is perfect. End of discussion

LordDRIFT
21-06-2015, 14:12
That's a real bummer man. Sounds like your wheel has died for whatever reason. Is it not covered by warranty ? I can't tell you how lucky I feel that 1.4 completly resolved my wheel issues. A friend of our has had all sorts of wheel issues since 1.4 with a fanatec wheel whereas before he had no issues at all.

So that brings us to the next problem really...what's going to happen when patch 1.5 comes out ? Is it going to fix some wheels and screw others so we're in this cycle of frustration ? Is the ffb going to change again o we have to get used to another physics model ?

I'm happy with the t300 with the t3pa pedals although I think it's overpriced when you add the pedal set to be honest. I've only had it for 5 or 6 weeks though. Can't imagine logitech is going to prove much different. All wheels seems very hit and miss with project cars. Go to any other sim forum or play any other driving game and you just don't get any of these wheel issues. Certainly not the level of random inconsistencies.

I'll see about a warranty on monday. I do not want to support TM, so if it's replaced I'll just sell it. The whole setup is poorly made using very cheap parts and shoddy assembly. Not worth the $500 I paid.

Out the box brake pedal did not Work. I had to open and fix.
Wheels works perfect for 1 week.
Week 2 fading starts .
Week 3 patch arrives. No more fading with lower force settings , but feedback is erratic , some races the graph goes crazy but the wheel is light to turn just vibrates a lot. Quitting the race and adjusting any value in one direction by one step returns normal and smooth operation aand graph. This is obviously game related.
Week 3 d pad quits. Open up and fixed. More shoddy construction revealed.
End of week 3 severe fading out of the blue. Stopped calibrating. Updated firm ware. Calibrated faded after 1/2 lap. Won't calibrate. $500 dollar paper weight.

TimNiceButDim
29-11-2016, 19:13
I am having this issue now. I have a thrustmaster t300rs and have been playing with Jack Spade's ffb settings.
Please could somebody give me a step by step guide of what to do to resolve this issue?
I bought it on Amazon in July and I can't return it.

lancashirelad
30-11-2016, 01:33
I am having this issue now. I have a thrustmaster t300rs and have been playing with Jack Spade's ffb settings.
Please could somebody give me a step by step guide of what to do to resolve this issue?
I bought it on Amazon in July and I can't return it.

Try my settings in my signature. Also make sure you have the latest firmware and turn your wheel fan on so it stays on while you play, this should help. The wheel will automatically lower ff to prevent damage.