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Bouyo
13-06-2015, 16:03
The title says it all. That you SMS for disabling the centre spring and making all of that wonderful FFB accessible. Now it feels proper.

Spirit X
13-06-2015, 17:43
Really? I've just been reading a thread saying it hasn't changed at all. Or is your post sarcasm?

LordDRIFT
13-06-2015, 17:48
The title says it all. That you SMS for disabling the centre spring and making all of that wonderful FFB accessible. Now it feels proper.
People are saying the FFB Is all jacked up. I don't see it. It's probably not compatible with existing tweaks but minor tweaks to in car settings have provided a feel I'm enjoying.

LordDRIFT
13-06-2015, 17:49
Really? I've just been reading a thread saying it hasn't changed at all. Or is your post sarcasm?

It's there but playing around with the settings can dial it down. Not out but down.

LordDRIFT
13-06-2015, 17:54
Also my t300 isn't fading anymore I've chosen to leave ffb at default 75. Still feels loads strong.

Bouyo
14-06-2015, 12:19
No it wasn't sarcasm on my part! I feel silly in a way, but I really enjoyed what they did with the FFB settings. I just assumed that the centering spring had been disabled and it did feel significantly different to me than before 1.4! I think my original FFB settings had dialed a lot of centre spring effect out and it didn't affect the game as much as it is has been doing for some people.

I think it's important that they get on the spring thing, but I really like the changes they have made.

Man that would have been one sarcastic post ....

rams1de
14-06-2015, 13:03
The patch didn't fix the centring problem. Apart from resetting the default FFB to 75, I haven't been able to identify any other change to FFB on my T300.

LordDRIFT
14-06-2015, 14:46
Well my Wheel no longer fades and I'm most happy about that. Again maybe a result of ffb at 75. Maybe for t300 users at least the advice to raise to 100 is no good? After much reading I've finally understood what the front wheel settings affect and tuning just this I don't have an overwhelming spring. It's the sop tuning that starts to bring in the spring effect (this also happens if lateral parameter on front wheel is set too high). The challenge for me now is to find a balance between the spring and rear feel.

Ally_bassman
15-06-2015, 09:00
LordDRIFT, are you using the standard T300rs wheel?

I haven't noticed any FFB fade on my T300rs until I swapped to the Ferrari F1 wheel, now I'm sure I'm getting fade after 30 minutes or so. I've always had my FFB set to 100 (all other settings set to standard) going to try again tonight and if I feel fade, I'm going to revert back to the T300 wheel.

To add another spanner in, I'm not sure if it's down to the 1.4 patch...but it certainly feels different to pre patch. I'm not having 'to fight' the wheel as much.

wusuku
15-06-2015, 09:21
I don`t know how other feel about patch 1.4 but all I can say is that know I can do things that were impossible for me before (with mi T300rs)

The difference feels like driving on ice to normal driving, specially cars like Escort or BMW M1. Even DTM Mercedes feels better: before patch was impossible to drive at 100% as any little mistake with the throttle or with some herbs easily end up with you out of the race. Now is possible to counter steer, correct, full brake...

One thing more: AI behavior racing under rain. Before installing the patch I was going crazy, trying to race at Zolder with BMW M1, at a career race where weather changes from sunny to heavy rain. AI's were not changing tires, and even leading by 20 secs in 4 laps end up badly (tried to race without stopping for a change, slowing down...no use).
Applied the patch and noticed that at last was possible to race the AI's under rain

1.4 changed PCars for the better

(BTW: I reseted to original FFB tweaks but leaving changes to cars setup as they were)

chig88
15-06-2015, 09:28
Mine feels very similar to before the patch. The centering spring is definitely not disabled & the only change I had to make after the patch was to drop the tire forces by 5.

I'm happy with the way of feels, but I'd still like the spring to be toned down or disabled for the sake of wheel longevity.

graveltrap
15-06-2015, 09:29
TBH I've never had a problem with the 'centre spring' no idea why!?

I'be gone back to an almost default setup for FFB now, with the only changes being tyre force down to 50 and FFB up to 100, it seems to give me a better idea of what the rear end of the car is doing in comparison to the other FFB tuning I have tried, it also seems easier to catch the car because of this.

Only really tested with LMP2 at Le Mans I guess I better take a GT3 to a bumpy track next....

chig88
15-06-2015, 09:34
LordDRIFT, are you using the standard T300rs wheel?

I haven't noticed any FFB fade on my T300rs until I swapped to the Ferrari F1 wheel, now I'm sure I'm getting fade after 30 minutes or so. I've always had my FFB set to 100 (all other settings set to standard) going to try again tonight and if I feel fade, I'm going to revert back to the T300 wheel.

To add another spanner in, I'm not sure if it's down to the 1.4 patch...but it certainly feels different to pre patch. I'm not having 'to fight' the wheel as much.

Have you tried dropping the tire forces? I'm using the F1 wheel & Jack Spade's FFB settings & I haven't had any fade so far, even though I use my wheel in a very warm room. I have it set at 100 FFB & 60 tire force.

Using the default settings the wheel felt far too heavy, I'm not surprised the FFB fade kicks in for a lot of people - the wheel is obviously getting too hot & the safety mechanism is kicking in.

Ally_bassman
15-06-2015, 10:56
Will give it a go, thanks!

I've never noticed it before, but yesterday with the LMP2 car, I certainly felt like the steering was getting lighter throughout the race.

Apart from that, all good pre and post patch for me!

LordDRIFT
15-06-2015, 13:58
LordDRIFT, are you using the standard T300rs wheel?

I haven't noticed any FFB fade on my T300rs until I swapped to the Ferrari F1 wheel, now I'm sure I'm getting fade after 30 minutes or so. I've always had my FFB set to 100 (all other settings set to standard) going to try again tonight and if I feel fade, I'm going to revert back to the T300 wheel.

To add another spanner in, I'm not sure if it's down to the 1.4 patch...but it certainly feels different to pre patch. I'm not having 'to fight' the wheel as much.

I'm using the PS4 licensed wheel. It never faded during the first 2 weeks of ownership but it started recently and gradually getting worse. It first started on the 80s formula car - the massive forces here may be a contributing factor but since then on every other car I've had fading.

I have a post patch profile that still fades with the ffb at 100 and the Jack Spades tweakers. Im not surprised folks using the tweakers are finding the wheel not suitable - obviously the params driving the engine has changed so tweaks will be skewed. The PC boys are really hurting though and that makes sense since im pretty sure the tweaks are optimized for PC. That's maybe why PS4 owners are having a lesser degree of issues using the tweaks post patch. I have started a new profile and using 100 tf/75 FFb, deadzones at zero. I have ZERO fading.

I've had success across a few cars using the following in car settings.


spindle
master - 34
fx - 70
fy - 30 (based on cars I've tested if the steering feels too light I've gone up to as far as 40 (zakspeed ford), but I keep 30 as the baseline and adjust based on steering feel)
fz - 120
mz - 100


SOP

Sop scale - 30
Lat - 80
Diff - 80


All other in car ffb settings default.

Still experimenting based on the next car career mode throws me, but these baselines have worked quite nicely.

Some gave a suggestion I read that has got me on my way of understanding the setting. if you zero all setting and drive one setting at a time on min-mid-max you will understand what they do.

Lastly FFB does affect how the car handles (or how you handle the car) but it is also very subjective you will come to realize this once you figure out the settings.

PS. Escuse punctuation and grammar - did this on the mobile.

Ally_bassman
15-06-2015, 14:21
I'm going to check out those settings, thanks!

wyldanimal
16-06-2015, 05:23
Tonight I had some time to tweak the FFB a bit after the 1.4 patch.

Using the BMW Z4 on Watkins Glen, no ABS, Traction or Stability when tuning

I created a series of Videos, each one, the Wheel Strength gets Progressively Stronger and Stronger.
I Start with a light Feeling Wheel that has every subtle feeling that you see in the FFB monitor Graph, if you See it, you can feel it.

As the Wheel Strength gets stronger, some of the Subtle Feelings get lost.
The last video, I end with a Medium Wheel Weight, with Good Subtle Feeling.
it's the One I'd use.

Here's the base numbers I start with
General FFB 75 Tire Force 100
Most of the Wheel Strength is done By Adjusting These:
Rel Adj Gain 0.52, Rel Adj Bleed 1.25, Rel Adj Clamp 0.46,
Scoop knee 0.80, Scoop Reduction 0.15

once you Find a Wheel Weight you Like, then for Each Car on Each track
Tweak these.

Spindle Master Scale 90
Fx 40, Fy 10, Fz 100, Mz 50, Fy Smooth 10, Mz Smooth 10
Arm 2800 or 2/3rds Max

SoP Scale 70, SoP Lat 60, SoP Diff 70


From Light to Very Strong Wheel Weight.

Rel Adj Gain 0.52, Rel Adj Bleed 1.25, Rel Adj Clamp 0.46,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JNJOA2iX4M


Rel Adj Gain 0.57, Rel Adj Bleed 0.75, Rel Adj Clamp 0.51,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSpHANs37nk

Rel Adj Gain 0.72, Rel Adj Bleed 0.60, Rel Adj Clamp 0.66,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=un6KXavAo04


Rel Adj Gain 0.92, Rel Adj Bleed 0.35, Rel Adj Clamp 0.86,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Igu-Qm5ens0


Rel Adj Gain 1.02, Rel Adj Bleed 0.15, Rel Adj Clamp 0.96,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtUj7hs786g


Rel Adj Gain 1.07, Rel Adj Bleed 0.10, Rel Adj Clamp 1.0,
Scoop knee 0.70, Scoop Reduction 0.10
FFB 90 Tire Force 90
Master 70 SoP 50
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Yo_WWKHpm0


Rel Adj Gain 1.07, Rel Adj Bleed 0, Rel Adj Clamp 1.0,
Scoop knee 0.70, Scoop Reduction 0
FFB 100 Tire Force 100
Master 80 SoP 50
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLk_rnbKOMk


This is the One I'd Use. A good Medium Wheel Weight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Kq4ASf-Hss
FFB = 75 Tire Force =100
Rel Gain = .82 Bleed = .65 Clamp = .76
Scoop Knee = .80 Scoop reduction = .15
SP Master = 90
Fx 40, Fy 10, Fz 100, Mz 50, Fy Smooth 10, Mz Smooth 10, Arm 2800
SoP Scale 60, Sop Lat 60, Sop Diff 70

thegt500
16-06-2015, 07:37
I've had an issue whereby there's no FFB at all until I do a full reboot of my PS4. It happened before V1.4 if I got smashed into by an AI and the FFB just went ! Now it seems to happen regularly even from the start line. Also, if I crash or get hit, the FFB will sometimes go (not always, but mostly) plus my nice warm tyres will suddenly go stone cold and I'm left slipping and sliding around for two laps till they heat back up ?

Hengist
16-06-2015, 10:10
With the T300RS, patch 1.4 and default in-game settings (actually, I've dialed down the FFB to 60), I've noticed a positive difference. The general wheel turning tension now feels correct, whereas before it was unaturally heavy. There's also now more emphasis on feeling the tyres slip and weight transfer through the FFB. Even the Clio now shares more charateristics and attributes with the FWD Fiat that I drive in real life.

Before the patch, the FFB was meh, now it's what I expected it to be like originally. I'm very happy with the changes.

Ally_bassman
16-06-2015, 10:40
After some fiddling last night (ohhhhh Matron!) I'm now seeing the 1.4 patch in much more positive light with regards to FFB and overall feel of the wheel.

Pre patch I had no qualms with how the game felt, but after the patch it felt a little off to what I was used to. But now I am really seeing the benefits and I'm finding that I can feel what the rear of the car is doing more and 'catching' it before it steps out.

Chicanes are now a dream, where as before 1.4 I would more often or not make a real mess of them when pushing hard.

amitlr
16-06-2015, 18:49
I'm using the PS4 licensed wheel. It never faded during the first 2 weeks of ownership but it started recently and gradually getting worse. It first started on the 80s formula car - the massive forces here may be a contributing factor but since then on every other car I've had fading.

I have a post patch profile that still fades with the ffb at 100 and the Jack Spades tweakers. Im not surprised folks using the tweakers are finding the wheel not suitable - obviously the params driving the engine has changed so tweaks will be skewed. The PC boys are really hurting though and that makes sense since im pretty sure the tweaks are optimized for PC. That's maybe why PS4 owners are having a lesser degree of issues using the tweaks post patch. I have started a new profile and using 100 tf/75 FFb, deadzones at zero. I have ZERO fading.

I've had success across a few cars using the following in car settings.


spindle
master - 34
fx - 70
fy - 30 (based on cars I've tested if the steering feels too light I've gone up to as far as 40 (zakspeed ford), but I keep 30 as the baseline and adjust based on steering feel)
fz - 120
mz - 100


SOP

Sop scale - 30
Lat - 80
Diff - 80


All other in car ffb settings default.

Still experimenting based on the next car career mode throws me, but these baselines have worked quite nicely.

Some gave a suggestion I read that has got me on my way of understanding the setting. if you zero all setting and drive one setting at a time on min-mid-max you will understand what they do.

Lastly FFB does affect how the car handles (or how you handle the car) but it is also very subjective you will come to realize this once you figure out the settings.

PS. Escuse punctuation and grammar - did this on the mobile.

Only tested this with one car (SP/300R) on one track. On first try, i improved my lap time by 2 seconds! great stuff, nice feel.
I also only play with the fy setting to balance wheel weight depending on car.
One problem i still have, I hardly feel the back end loosing grip like i used to. Dont know if this is a patch 1.4 issue, or car. Will keep testing.

LordDRIFT
16-06-2015, 20:15
Only tested this with one car (SP/300R) on one track. On first try, i improved my lap time by 2 seconds! great stuff, nice feel.
I also only play with the fy setting to balance wheel weight depending on car.
One problem i still have, I hardly feel the back end loosing grip like i used to. Dont know if this is a patch 1.4 issue, or car. Will keep testing.
Glad you like it. Increasing the sop settings will give more feel from back but that center spring effect also increases with it. I don't like that feel mid corner (feels like it's counter steering for me) so I had to compromise. Hopefully when they sort the spring issue we can get a more pure feeling that the PC guys rave about. It seems as well that certain fforces serve to cancel each other out so you will have to compromise somewhere. I tune to empathize steering and road feel. Then rear feel then braking. The latter two are downplayed in favor of the former. I'm pretty sure there is more performance to be had bit I'm still learning. The ffb calibration menu I'm clueless about instance

LordDRIFT
16-06-2015, 20:27
Tonight I had some time to tweak the FFB a bit after the 1.4 patch.

Using the BMW Z4 on Watkins Glen, no ABS, Traction or Stability when tuning

I created a series of Videos, each one, the Wheel Strength gets Progressively Stronger and Stronger.
I Start with a light Feeling Wheel that has every subtle feeling that you see in the FFB monitor Graph, if you See it, you can feel it.

As the Wheel Strength gets stronger, some of the Subtle Feelings get lost.
The last video, I end with a Medium Wheel Weight, with Good Subtle Feeling.
it's the One I'd use.

Here's the base numbers I start with
General FFB 75 Tire Force 100
Most of the Wheel Strength is done By Adjusting These:
Rel Adj Gain 0.52, Rel Adj Bleed 1.25, Rel Adj Clamp 0.46,
Scoop knee 0.80, Scoop Reduction 0.15

once you Find a Wheel Weight you Like, then for Each Car on Each track
Tweak these.

Spindle Master Scale 90
Fx 40, Fy 10, Fz 100, Mz 50, Fy Smooth 10, Mz Smooth 10
Arm 2800 or 2/3rds Max

SoP Scale 70, SoP Lat 60, SoP Diff 70


From Light to Very Strong Wheel Weight.

Rel Adj Gain 0.52, Rel Adj Bleed 1.25, Rel Adj Clamp 0.46,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JNJOA2iX4M


Rel Adj Gain 0.57, Rel Adj Bleed 0.75, Rel Adj Clamp 0.51,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSpHANs37nk

Rel Adj Gain 0.72, Rel Adj Bleed 0.60, Rel Adj Clamp 0.66,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=un6KXavAo04


Rel Adj Gain 0.92, Rel Adj Bleed 0.35, Rel Adj Clamp 0.86,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Igu-Qm5ens0


Rel Adj Gain 1.02, Rel Adj Bleed 0.15, Rel Adj Clamp 0.96,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtUj7hs786g


Rel Adj Gain 1.07, Rel Adj Bleed 0.10, Rel Adj Clamp 1.0,
Scoop knee 0.70, Scoop Reduction 0.10
FFB 90 Tire Force 90
Master 70 SoP 50
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Yo_WWKHpm0


Rel Adj Gain 1.07, Rel Adj Bleed 0, Rel Adj Clamp 1.0,
Scoop knee 0.70, Scoop Reduction 0
FFB 100 Tire Force 100
Master 80 SoP 50
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLk_rnbKOMk


This is the One I'd Use. A good Medium Wheel Weight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Kq4ASf-Hss
FFB = 75 Tire Force =100
Rel Gain = .82 Bleed = .65 Clamp = .76
Scoop Knee = .80 Scoop reduction = .15
SP Master = 90
Fx 40, Fy 10, Fz 100, Mz 50, Fy Smooth 10, Mz Smooth 10, Arm 2800
SoP Scale 60, Sop Lat 60, Sop Diff 70

Can you explain what the rel adjust settings do in plain English? Much harder to experiment with these for obvious reasons.

wyldanimal
16-06-2015, 20:53
Can you explain what the rel adjust settings do in plain English? Much harder to experiment with these for obvious reasons.

What I've found by Experimenting..
Rel Adj Gain - the FFB signal will be boosted up to this max setting..
Rel Bleed, is a time based setting, How Fast the Strength of the Signal goes away
Rel Clamp, as the Gain Rises and Falls, the Clamp holds the strength at that level until it bleeds off.

That's just what I've figured them to be from experimentation.

So if you set higher Gain, and Clamp, the Wheel builds strength faster.
with a small bleed value, it dissipates quick.

The Higher the Gain and Clam, the Stronger / Heavier the wheel gets.

amitlr
16-06-2015, 20:58
Can you explain what the rel adjust settings do in plain English? Much harder to experiment with these for obvious reasons.

Tried these settings as well. Just before i tried yours.
It was ...different. I felt the wheel was way too light for me (used the suggested last setting), but on the other hand, it emphasized so many little things like a magnifying glass .
Bumps, brakes, locked wheels, curves, accelerations. For me personally, too much "noise" on FFB and less road feel. Not that its not there, there is just a lot of things happening at once.
Couldn't get consistent lap times. I am sure every setting takes time to get used to. will give it another go sometime soon. Will be great to hear more experiences from others.

LordDRIFT
16-06-2015, 21:04
What I've found by Experimenting..
Rel Adj Gain - the FFB signal will be boosted up to this max setting..
Rel Bleed, is a time based setting, How Fast the Strength of the Signal goes away
Rel Clamp, as the Gain Rises and Falls, the Clamp holds the strength at that level until it bleeds off.

That's just what I've figured them to be from experimentation.

So if you set higher Gain, and Clamp, the Wheel builds strength faster.
with a small bleed value, it dissipates quick.

The Higher the Gain and Clam, the Stronger / Heavier the wheel gets.

Interesting. Thanks.

chickano
18-06-2015, 16:37
may I ask, have people recalibrated and reset FFB settings (global) to default?

i ask as i have been using wootball's settings with jack spades car configurations. Since patch i cant really feel the front wheels slide or grip. The tension on the wheel when turning just seems the same no matter what is happening with the front tyres. I get decent fb off the rear end though, i;'m wondering is my centre spring issue? have sop scale at about 20

Have tyre force at 75 and FFB strength 100.

thanks

LordDRIFT
18-06-2015, 16:44
Yes

chickano
18-06-2015, 16:47
ok, thanks Drift. I'll reset everything and start again!! Hopefully my experience will then be sweet like people express in this thread.

LordDRIFT
18-06-2015, 18:04
There is a saying that goes "Ignorance is bliss". This is so true. I was never bothered by the "centering spring" until it was explained to me what is was. Now i'm constantly aware and fixated on it - I may have even compromised other areas to lessen its effect. Thanks pcars forum. Reminds me of Shallow Hal...

unairiva
18-06-2015, 22:41
What Is exactly "centering spring"?
After patch my wheel weakening and now calibration problems..
Fucking Pcars...

Kev1eighty7
19-06-2015, 03:01
Reduce tyre force

chickano
22-06-2015, 16:42
Anyone else experience very strong left / right oscillation on straights and under braking? Happens alot when at speed, especially in prototypes and formula cars?
I've tried recalibration, , and playing with lots of settings.
many thanks.

Bouyo
22-06-2015, 17:02
Check your dead zone. If you have a negative dead zone then the wheel will oscillate. You want a tiny dead zone where the wheel will sit stock still on a straight with hand off, but will respond to the slightest touch.

chickano
22-06-2015, 17:05
ok thanks Bouyo, i'll try that later and report back. . Currently have deadzone set to 0 i know that much.

_MB_
22-06-2015, 17:07
Hey Chick :cool:
I did have the same problem i think lowering MZ ffb in car settings helped.try lowering right down to see if it clears the problem then adjust back up from there.Think for FA i have mz around 20-30

chickano
22-06-2015, 17:16
Monkey me auld flower!:eek:

Thanks man. I did test by lowering everything to 0 and playing single settings Fx fy etc to 50 and 100. It is definitely linked to MZ you're right. and fy but less so. Do you have a small bit of deadzone selected in your settings as well?

_MB_
22-06-2015, 18:28
Monkey me auld flower!:eek:

Thanks man. I did test by lowering everything to 0 and playing single settings Fx fy etc to 50 and 100. It is definitely linked to MZ you're right. and fy but less so. Do you have a small bit of deadzone selected in your settings as well?


I think steering deadzone is on zero,not sure on the rest but will be going on soon so i'll let ya know

chickano
22-06-2015, 18:54
Thanks fella

SkechBG
22-06-2015, 22:28
I got the same problems... and one more out of this forum point but really bad error is the Pitstop Crash and stuck car when autodrive inside !!!!!!!!!!! AI CARS STUCK AND CRASH TOO

NURBURGRING NORDSHLIEFE !!!

chickano
23-06-2015, 11:06
So, it wasn't deadzone , as I have deadzone on 0. But n the Formula A at least it was being caused by the Mz setting, which I now have set to 25