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lethaLEEkill
15-06-2015, 01:12
This game just destroyed my wheel! !! coming out of the pit at bathurst ,as soon as my wheel kicked in it violently swung left with such force it snapped something inside the wheel leaving it loose and lifeless. Very disappointed just bought ps4 and cs shifter for this game, now there going to be dust collectors until god knows when I can afford a new one. The amount of stress put on this wheel since the release of this game really has been unacceptable and I have been waiting for something to give, and what do you know a thousand dollars down the drain! I didn't even get to start a career in over 6 weeks! ! I can't express my frustration enough! !! fanatec gt2 now trash!!

watchumacallit
15-06-2015, 04:32
^^^Sorry for ur loss!

Forbiddenracer
15-06-2015, 06:51
Surely that should be cover under manufacturer warranty as the wheel should not be able to generate enough force to break itself no matter what the console tells it to do it's still governed by the power of its own internal motors?
Hope you can get it sorted.

Disposable_Hero
15-06-2015, 07:24
Wow, i hope the alarm bells are ringing.

muscular
15-06-2015, 07:53
Thrustmaster must have poor calibration in place. The starting calibration doesn't speak confidence as well when the wheel snaps so hard to the left then to the right. TM needs to understand how low quality the wheel inside really is, and needs pampering if the wheel were to last.

TrevorAustin
15-06-2015, 08:38
Thrustmaster must have poor calibration in place. The starting calibration doesn't speak confidence as well when the wheel snaps so hard to the left then to the right. TM needs to understand how low quality the wheel inside really is, and needs pampering if the wheel were to last.

A Fanatec GT2 isn't a thrustmaster product. And I think the calibration speaks lots of confidence:) they aren't expecting their product to break under normal use, nor should it.

lethaLEEkill
15-06-2015, 09:32
Surely that should be cover under manufacturer warranty as the wheel should not be able to generate enough force to break itself no matter what the console tells it to do it's still governed by the power of its own internal motors?
Hope you can get it sorted.

Warranty has expired! It's a few years old now, but was in perfect working order before getting this game

jgaganas
15-06-2015, 09:40
Typically Software isn't capable of killing Hardware (apart from maybe a bug in a wheels firmware).

Seems just like bad luck (or maybe just aging materials).

Sorry for you...

ilmor
15-06-2015, 09:40
Hey you guys wanted realism so there!!!

Zenzic
15-06-2015, 09:42
http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view5/2693428/steering-wheel-coming-off-o.gif

lethaLEEkill
15-06-2015, 10:01
Typically Software isn't capable of killing Hardware (apart from maybe a bug in a wheels firmware).

Seems just like bad luck (or maybe just aging materials).

Sorry for you...

typically games have never violently thrown my wheel from left to right while going straight on a smooth road!

Mascot
15-06-2015, 10:53
Typically Software isn't capable of killing Hardware (apart from maybe a bug in a wheels firmware).


Ian agrees:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?31045-Patch-1-4-didn-t-fix-centre-spring-issue&p=989403&viewfull=1#post989403

Bounkass
15-06-2015, 12:03
Ian agrees:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?31045-Patch-1-4-didn-t-fix-centre-spring-issue&p=989403&viewfull=1#post989403

Of course he agrees. If he says the software CAN destroy your hardware then SMS would get sued.

lethaLEEkill
15-06-2015, 12:11
Ian agrees:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?31045-Patch-1-4-didn-t-fix-centre-spring-issue&p=989403&viewfull=1#post989403

well my wheel and i say otherwise, the loud crack that came out of my wheel was anything but normal! I never had a game put my wheel through the amount of stress that pcars did!

lethaLEEkill
15-06-2015, 19:41
bump!!!!!

Martini Da Gasalini
15-06-2015, 19:50
http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view5/2693428/steering-wheel-coming-off-o.gif


HOLY CRAP HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
:glee:

Sankyo
15-06-2015, 20:57
Of course he agrees. If he says the software CAN destroy your hardware then SMS would get sued.

Nonsense. Software can only do what the hardware is designed for. The fact that a sudden strong movement broke something in your wheel is only because something was already wrong with the wheel.

So what is the situation with the wheel now? What does it do when you turn it on? What does the Fanatec driver show when you connect it to a PC? If you can show me/tell me what is wrong exactly, perhaps I can help you. Maybe Fanatec Support can help, or maybe I can (I'm a Fanatec repair agent).

WingedBeast1968
15-06-2015, 21:42
Software can and does, most definitely, have the capability to destroy hardware. Especially embedded software which is tasked with controlling a thunking great motor.

Having said that, Ian is correct in saying they can only "request" action, via USB, of the wheel motor.
I think you've just been unlucky dude. Take it apart and fix it? Make it stronger and better than it was before.
And then tell Fanatec what you did. They may appreciate the heads up with some dollars :)

Bounkass
15-06-2015, 21:48
Nonsense. Software can only do what the hardware is designed for. The fact that a sudden strong movement broke something in your wheel is only because something was already wrong with the wheel.

So what is the situation with the wheel now? What does it do when you turn it on? What does the Fanatec driver show when you connect it to a PC? If you can show me/tell me what is wrong exactly, perhaps I can help you. Maybe Fanatec Support can help, or maybe I can (I'm a Fanatec repair agent).

Bullshit. Yes, the software is programmed to output a certain signal to give certain feedback force. And I'm sure the programmers programmed a maximum amount of force in. But bugs and glitches happen, forcing the motors to go full power, if you will, thus phyically breaking something. Generally speaking, it happens a lot.

TrevorAustin
15-06-2015, 21:50
Bullshit. Yes, the software is programmed to output a certain signal to give certain feedback force. And I'm sure the programmers programmed a maximum amount of force in. But bugs and glitches happen, forcing the motors to go full power, if you will, thus phyically breaking something. Generally speaking, it happens a lot.

Where does it hapoen a lot, the fanatec drivers will have safefuards built in so if the bug was there they'd all be doing it and they aren't :)

xXDoc187Xx
15-06-2015, 23:43
Sorry for your lost OP, In the 6 years of owning my 911 turbo S I never experience this violent wheel shake that is seen with patch 1.4 on any of the games I played it on in the past i.e Forza 3 & 4, GT5, F1 13, Dirt 3, iRacing, RR Experience, LFS ,rFactor, rFactor 2 ,TDU2

madmax2069
16-06-2015, 00:10
Probably just need to replace a belt

lethaLEEkill
16-06-2015, 05:48
Nonsense. Software can only do what the hardware is designed for. The fact that a sudden strong movement broke something in your wheel is only because something was already wrong with the wheel.

So what is the situation with the wheel now? What does it do when you turn it on? What does the Fanatec driver show when you connect it to a PC? If you can show me/tell me what is wrong exactly, perhaps I can help you. Maybe Fanatec Support can help, or maybe I can (I'm a Fanatec repair agent).

sorry for the late reply, just connected to pc, turned on at first only one dash displayed far about 30 sec then the 3 light up and wheel shudders and slowly tries to turn. put into pc mode buttons light up but wheel spins freely both left and right but in test screen only moves slider to right and cant get back to middle or left side. now i'll take wheel apart and provide a photo when done. thanks for your help and reply.(I still believe game is responsible whether its aged or not)

jason
16-06-2015, 05:52
Typically Software isn't capable of killing Hardware ... key word marked in red ............... doesn't look to me like it never happens .

lethaLEEkill
16-06-2015, 06:06
so i took it apart and both belts are intact, could hear small pieces rattle around when tipped upside down but could not see anthing out of the ordinary. not really confident taking apart any further without guidance

FA RACING 01
16-06-2015, 06:14
I had same happened to me last night three times in an about a hour at the second last corner at Le Mans track in the R18 TDI. Just as I enter the corner the car goes out of control and the wheel violently turns to the left, shudders a few times and then go quiet. I then had to wait about 10 seconds before I can pause and exit. My TX wheel is fine however.

PS. In the same hour I also lost sound once on the same corner and twice lost power for about a second till I reached the next corner (last corner on track). Pause, exit game and reload the game solved it. Wheel is still fine. :confused:

lethaLEEkill
16-06-2015, 06:14
would call support for game but at $2.50min i think this game has cost me enough money!

stux
16-06-2015, 07:42
Bullshit. Yes, the software is programmed to output a certain signal to give certain feedback force. And I'm sure the programmers programmed a maximum amount of force in. But bugs and glitches happen, forcing the motors to go full power, if you will, thus phyically breaking something. Generally speaking, it happens a lot.

But its not the game's job to protect the hardware, its the hardware's driver's job. The driver should not allow ANY signal which will damage the hardare, and if it did, then its the driver which damaged the hardware... it was driving.

Maybe its time was up.

HeeseyChelmet
16-06-2015, 08:13
I've also had this issue with my car today when driving to work. It has completely destroyed my tyres! I was cornering at highspeed and leaving it to the last possible minute to brake for corners and traffic lights. When I got to work my brakes were glowing red and the tyres were down to the steel inner. I'm complaining to Nissan that they have ruined my tyres and its not my driving style and the fact the tyres have done well over 12,000 miles

lethaLEEkill
16-06-2015, 08:19
But its not the game's job to protect the hardware, its the hardware's driver's job. The driver should not allow ANY signal which will damage the hardare, and if it did, then its the driver which damaged the hardware... it was driving.

Maybe its time was up.

come off it mate! your on xb1 which my wheel is not compatible with, hence why i have a ps4(only reason). So i dare say you have no idea what porche wheel users have been experiencing on ps4!

lethaLEEkill
16-06-2015, 08:24
I've also had this issue with my car today when driving to work. It has completely destroyed my tyres! I was cornering at highspeed and leaving it to the last possible minute to brake for corners and traffic lights. When I got to work my brakes were glowing red and the tyres were down to the steel inner. I'm complaining to Nissan that they have ruined my tyres and its not my driving style and the fact the tyres have done well over 12,000 miles

your a dickhead mate, as soon as wheel kicked in from the pits it happened! was not driving at all. Get back in your hole!!!

MysterG
16-06-2015, 08:38
Lets not start throwing personal insults around.

The fact is the wheel died whilst playing pCARS, that does not automatically mean the game broke it.

Deadzone
16-06-2015, 08:50
Lets not start throwing personal insults around.

The fact is the wheel died whilst playing pCARS, that does not automatically mean the game broke it.

Did you watch the video Lee posted. Show me any other game that puts those type of forces into the wheel.

lethaLEEkill
16-06-2015, 08:51
Lets not start throwing personal insults around.

The fact is the wheel died whilst playing pCARS, that does not automatically mean the game broke it.

sorry, i'd just like some help to sort this out, and these trolls got me at a vulnerable time.

Titzon Toast
16-06-2015, 09:52
They are just trolling you alright man, ignore them.
I also experienced a fairly violent jolt on the wheel while taking over control after leaving the pits.
It didn't feel nice at all and was definitely unnecessary.

EDIT
A good friend of mine is a Fanatec expert, I'll send him a link to this thread, and hopefully he can tell you what you been to do to fix your wheel.

Sankyo
16-06-2015, 10:00
Bullshit. Yes, the software is programmed to output a certain signal to give certain feedback force. And I'm sure the programmers programmed a maximum amount of force in. But bugs and glitches happen, forcing the motors to go full power, if you will, thus phyically breaking something. Generally speaking, it happens a lot.
So you're saying that a wheel is not designed to be able to withstand the motor(s) on full power?
Of course that's nonsense, how would a wheel manufacturer make a wheel that a) has more motor power than the hardware can endure, and b) lets developers freely access that full power with no restrictions or safety boundaries?

SaladCream
16-06-2015, 10:01
Personally, I have a T300rs wheel and I'm scared it's gonna brake as this game is constantly putting under so much stress. But I suppose that's what its designed to do.

It's the bug when I come out the pits or start a race, and my wheel is CLIPPING!! For no reason, exit track and re-enter track and its fine? Ever since this new patch?

TrevorAustin
16-06-2015, 10:04
So you're saying that a wheel is not designed to be able to withstand the motor(s) on full power?
Of course that's nonsense, how would a wheel manufacturer make a wheel that a) has more motor power than the hardware can endure, and b) lets developers freely access that full power with no restrictions or safety boundaries?

Actually didn't fanatecs latest firmware deliberately restrict the motor on the GT2 and 3 as they did have problems using full power? Not that the game can ignore the limits the driver puts in of course.

Sankyo
16-06-2015, 10:08
sorry for the late reply, just connected to pc, turned on at first only one dash displayed far about 30 sec then the 3 light up and wheel shudders and slowly tries to turn. put into pc mode buttons light up but wheel spins freely both left and right but in test screen only moves slider to right and cant get back to middle or left side. now i'll take wheel apart and provide a photo when done. thanks for your help and reply.(I still believe game is responsible whether its aged or not)
So lert me see if I understood correctly:
- The wheel does not do the normal full right-full left-middle position autocalibration?
- The wheel starts turning after a while after having sat still where normally the autocalibration would have happened?
- The wheel start spinning into the end stops left and right after having been put in PC mode? I.e. it does hit the end stops on both sides?
- The driver only registers right movements of the wheel?

The most important part for me is that the end stops on both sides are still working properly, i.e. the wheel is not spinning infinitely into one direction. If the end stops are fine, then it all sounds most like the position sensor being broken. This would be an easy fix, you should contact Fanatec Support for that.

HeeseyChelmet
16-06-2015, 10:19
sorry, i'd just like some help to sort this out, and these trolls got me at a vulnerable time.

I'm not trolling mate. I'm just sick of all of the moaning around here and your post was the straw that broke the camels back. My post is a comparison to yours and you can see how you've reacted. To blame a game alone for breaking your wheel without considering other factors which undoubtedly have played their part is just downright ignorant and wrong.

Sankyo
16-06-2015, 10:39
Let's stop the senseless bickering please. I'm going to try and determine with the OP what's wrong with the wheel and how to fix it, and that will bring up the facts that we need to know.

stux
16-06-2015, 10:40
come off it mate! your on xb1 which my wheel is not compatible with, hence why i have a ps4(only reason). So i dare say you have no idea what porche wheel users have been experiencing on ps4!

BTW, to be clear, I was not implying it was your fault (as the "driver"), but rather the wheel manufacturer's fault, because of their software driver (which they either supplied to sony, or sms)

Mascot
16-06-2015, 11:10
@lethaLEEkill: are you using the correct firmware for the wheel? You didn't brute force other Fanatec firmware like some people here tried prior to patch 1.4?

For the record, before I tried Jack Spade's settings, my GT2 would shake incredibly violently after patch 1.4, far more so that it ever did before on any other game (all Forzas, GT, GTR2, Assetto Corsa etc). It concerned me enough to immediately turn the wheel off whenever it happened. I certainly felt like it must be doing damage to the wheel, and would actually make my whole Playseat rig shake. It might well still have been operating within hardware parameters but it was scarily violent.

lethaLEEkill
16-06-2015, 11:54
So lert me see if I understood correctly:
- The wheel does not do the normal full right-full left-middle position autocalibration?
- The wheel starts turning after a while after having sat still where normally the autocalibration would have happened?
- The wheel start spinning into the end stops left and right after having been put in PC mode? I.e. it does hit the end stops on both sides?
- The driver only registers right movements of the wheel?

The most important part for me is that the end stops on both sides are still working properly, i.e. the wheel is not spinning infinitely into one direction. If the end stops are fine, then it all sounds most like the position sensor being broken. This would be an easy fix, you should contact Fanatec Support for that.

- The wheel does not do the normal full right-full left-middle position autocalibration?- no
- The wheel starts turning after a while after having sat still where normally the autocalibration would have happened?- very slowly turning and yes
- The wheel start spinning into the end stops left and right after having been put in PC mode? I.e. it does hit the end stops on both sides?- no it hits no end stops left or right in pc mode on pc
- The driver only registers right movements of the wheel?- yes

it infinitely spins left then locks right after 90 deg turn no matter how far left you spin when its powered off

lethaLEEkill
16-06-2015, 12:03
@lethaLEEkill: are you using the correct firmware for the wheel? You didn't brute force other Fanatec firmware like some people here tried prior to patch 1.4?

For the record, before I tried Jack Spade's settings, my GT2 would shake incredibly violently after patch 1.4, far more so that it ever did before on any other game (all Forzas, GT, GTR2, Assetto Corsa etc). It concerned me enough to immediately turn the wheel off whenever it happened. I certainly felt like it must be doing damage to the wheel, and would actually make my whole Playseat rig shake. It might well still have been operating within hardware parameters but it was scarily violent.

yes i do have correct firmware, and no

lethaLEEkill
16-06-2015, 12:11
BTW, to be clear, I was not implying it was your fault (as the "driver"), but rather the wheel manufacturer's fault, because of their software driver (which they either supplied to sony, or sms)

i don't know who is at fault, but i believe if i played any game but pcars for the last few months my wheel would be fine right now.

lethaLEEkill
16-06-2015, 12:23
Let's stop the senseless bickering please. I'm going to try and determine with the OP what's wrong with the wheel and how to fix it, and that will bring up the facts that we need to know.

it sounds already like my wheel is buggered any chance you could maybe help out with a invite code for a csw v2, maybe if the tax man is generous enough this year i could splash out and go for the upgrade?

Sankyo
16-06-2015, 12:29
- The wheel start spinning into the end stops left and right after having been put in PC mode? I.e. it does hit the end stops on both sides?- no it hits no end stops left or right in pc mode on pc

it infinitely spins left then locks right after 90 deg turn no matter how far left you spin when its powered off
I'm sorry, I still don't understand that last sentence. Are you saying that the wheel keeps on spinning left infinitely (so not just 1 full turn and a bit) unless you stop it yourself or turn the wheel off? Will it go round and round in the same direction if you keep the wheel powered on? If yes, then it means the physical end stop of the wheel broke and the wheel is toast.

I want to make sure about this point, because it seems from the picture that you posted that the main cable is very tightly wound up which normally doesn't happen. This suggests that the wheel has been spinning into one direction much more than the normal maximum 1 1/4 turn until it hits the end stop. As said, if that's the case then the wheel is done. You can also test this yourself with the wheel powered off by manually turning the wheel. You should hit the end stop at some point on both sides.

lethaLEEkill
16-06-2015, 12:38
I'm sorry, I still don't understand that last sentence. Are you saying that the wheel keeps on spinning left infinitely (so not just 1 full turn and a bit) unless you stop it yourself or turn the wheel off? Will it go round and round in the same direction if you keep the wheel powered on? If yes, then it means the physical end stop of the wheel broke and the wheel is toast.

I want to make sure about this point, because it seems from the picture that you posted that the main cable is very tightly wound up which normally doesn't happen. This suggests that the wheel has been spinning into one direction much more than the normal maximum 1 1/4 turn until it hits the end stop. As said, if that's the case then the wheel is done. You can also test this yourself with the wheel powered off by manually turning the wheel. You should hit the end stop at some point on both sides.

its dead then, thanks anyway:(

Titzon Toast
16-06-2015, 12:49
I'm not trolling mate. I'm just sick of all of the moaning around here and your post was the straw that broke the camels back. My post is a comparison to yours and you can see how you've reacted. To blame a game alone for breaking your wheel without considering other factors which undoubtedly have played their part is just downright ignorant and wrong.

Will you just go away please? You're not helping the OP with your comments.

Sum Dixon-Ear
16-06-2015, 12:56
Sorry to hear about your wheel, if you want I can send you a replacement (Porsche Turbo S with GT2 Alcantara rim mod) for the cost of postage from Scotland to Ireland. The wheel was here to be repaired but the owner decided to upgrade and just left it with me to do as I wished with. The pedal/shifter port board was faulty and needed replaced so a new port board and main PCB were sourced from Fanatec and would be sent to you with the wheel for fitting by yourself.

You could check to see whether something has happened to the fixings holding the rim to the shaft by removing the circular Porsche badge cover with e.g. a plastic spatula to make sure all three screws are still firmly secured. If the rim fixings are loose/damaged you might be able to fix that quite easily.

Good luck.

Pics of wheel/parts below -
207994
207995

Roger Prynne
16-06-2015, 13:36
The community spirit lives on......Very generous of you Sum Dixon-Ear.

ChrisK
16-06-2015, 13:45
Let's stop the senseless bickering please. I'm going to try and determine with the OP what's wrong with the wheel and how to fix it, and that will bring up the facts that we need to know.

I don't know what's wrong with the op's wheel. It could be a coincidence and it could be a PCars issue.

You deserve some credit for at least answering the mans question and attempting to resolve something. That's more than I can say for the rest of the SMS team who have steered away from rationally discussing wheel related problems in multiple threads by multiple people. I've seen many people returning their wheels to manufacturers before 1.4 cos of the ffb weakening and crazy wheel issue before every session. Both of which are undoubtably an SMS issue. But the team just let these people send their wheels away without so much as a peep from anyone.

Quite frankly I think the behaviour of the devs in addressing the wheel problems has been disgusting. At least your having a crack and showing some genuine interest. So bravo, there's some integrity in that at least.

Titzon Toast
16-06-2015, 14:16
Sorry to hear about your wheel, if you want I can send you a replacement (Porsche Turbo S with GT2 Alcantara rim mod) for the cost of postage from Scotland to Ireland. The wheel was here to be repaired but the owner decided to upgrade and just left it with me to do as I wished with. The pedal/shifter port board was faulty and needed replaced so a new port board and main PCB were sourced from Fanatec and would be sent to you with the wheel for fitting by yourself.

You could check to see whether something has happened to the fixings holding the rim to the shaft by removing the circular Porsche badge cover with e.g. a plastic spatula to make sure all three screws are still firmly secured. If the rim fixings are loose/damaged you might be able to fix that quite easily.

Good luck.

Pics of wheel/parts below -
207994
207995

Best forum name ever.
Thanks Savoury.

Sankyo
16-06-2015, 17:06
Sorry to hear about your wheel, if you want I can send you a replacement (Porsche Turbo S with GT2 Alcantara rim mod) for the cost of postage from Scotland to Ireland. The wheel was here to be repaired but the owner decided to upgrade and just left it with me to do as I wished with. The pedal/shifter port board was faulty and needed replaced so a new port board and main PCB were sourced from Fanatec and would be sent to you with the wheel for fitting by yourself.

You could check to see whether something has happened to the fixings holding the rim to the shaft by removing the circular Porsche badge cover with e.g. a plastic spatula to make sure all three screws are still firmly secured. If the rim fixings are loose/damaged you might be able to fix that quite easily.

Good luck.

Pics of wheel/parts below -
207994
207995

That's a great offer!

I'll check whether you could actually turn the wheel into a GT2 again by transplanting the main and rim PCBs to the new wheel (in case you really want a GT2 instead of a Turbo S). You could probably also move the whole belt drive mechanism to your GT2 and leave the electronics where they are, but that's quite some work (not too difficult though). I'll let you know what my fellow Fanatec Support people think about the options.

Howie
16-06-2015, 18:42
Bullshit. Yes, the software is programmed to output a certain signal to give certain feedback force. And I'm sure the programmers programmed a maximum amount of force in. But bugs and glitches happen, forcing the motors to go full power, if you will, thus phyically breaking something. Generally speaking, it happens a lot.

Where are all the other complaints, with this same issue? Glad you found the solution. Squeaky wheel gets the grease.

gotdirt410sprintcar
16-06-2015, 21:06
This game just destroyed my wheel! !! coming out of the pit at bathurst ,as soon as my wheel kicked in it violently swung left with such force it snapped something inside the wheel leaving it loose and lifeless. Very disappointed just bought ps4 and cs shifter for this game, now there going to be dust collectors until god knows when I can afford a new one. The amount of stress put on this wheel since the release of this game really has been unacceptable and I have been waiting for something to give, and what do you know a thousand dollars down the drain! I didn't even get to start a career in over 6 weeks! ! I can't express my frustration enough! !! fanatec gt2 now trash!! Sorry to hear this but I have a feeling it was how you where setting it up that caused this problem. I have noticed on my gt3rs in the pits in formula b car my wheel would go to the left full lock. changed some settings I moved tire force down to 85 fixed the problem.

Titzon Toast
16-06-2015, 22:11
Where are all the other complaints, with this same issue? Glad you found the solution. Squeaky wheel gets the grease.

I expienced this issue. I was coming out of the pits and when control was given to me the wheel tried to jerk violently. It's happened a few times so I make sure I've got a good hold of the wheel at changeover.

Slicker_VR
16-06-2015, 22:47
it's happened to me on a t500 as well, so not fanatec specific

Dynomight Motorsports
16-06-2015, 23:36
Was this before or after the Patch? Lethal. I do have a Fanatec CSR wheel and 2 shifters, that will work for the PS4. I'm holding on to the pedals as the Thrustmaster's sucks and I'm getting a Basher mod to make them work.

Titzon Toast
16-06-2015, 23:45
Was this before or after the Patch? Lethal. I do have a Fanatec CSR wheel and 2 shifters, that will work for the PS4. I'm holding on to the pedals as the Thrustmaster's sucks and I'm getting a Basher mod to make them work.

After the patch for me, I couldn't use my wheel until 1.4 dropped.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
17-06-2015, 02:42
I have a the thrustmaster tx one xbone and after setting up all the cars I drive with jack spades settings it seemed the feedback was to weak. So I turned up the master setting and sop equally to make it feel stronger but still didn't seem quite right. Until I came across a post about turning up the clipping setting to 1.50 and .50. After that the ffb was so strong I thought it was gonna break the wheel that is only a few days old. So I turned down the master scale and sop considerably and the wheel is working like a charm. I know what a wheel is suppose to feel like as I own two logitechs, obviously they weren't compatible with the xbone. Anyway sorry for your loss man. And nice to see a fellow racer offer up a replacement for you as this does get quite expensive but is much worth it when a wheel is working properly!

lethaLEEkill
17-06-2015, 06:31
Sorry to hear about your wheel, if you want I can send you a replacement (Porsche Turbo S with GT2 Alcantara rim mod) for the cost of postage from Scotland to Ireland. The wheel was here to be repaired but the owner decided to upgrade and just left it with me to do as I wished with. The pedal/shifter port board was faulty and needed replaced so a new port board and main PCB were sourced from Fanatec and would be sent to you with the wheel for fitting by yourself.

You could check to see whether something has happened to the fixings holding the rim to the shaft by removing the circular Porsche badge cover with e.g. a plastic spatula to make sure all three screws are still firmly secured. If the rim fixings are loose/damaged you might be able to fix that quite easily.

Good luck.

Pics of wheel/parts below -
207994
207995


That's a great offer!

I'll check whether you could actually turn the wheel into a GT2 again by transplanting the main and rim PCBs to the new wheel (in case you really want a GT2 instead of a Turbo S). You could probably also move the whole belt drive mechanism to your GT2 and leave the electronics where they are, but that's quite some work (not too difficult though). I'll let you know what my fellow Fanatec Support people think about the options.

OMG, really? that would be amazing! Was not expecting that at all, i'm in Australia though not Ireland, hope thats still ok. extremely grateful for your help and generosity!!

Sorry to hear this but I have a feeling it was how you where setting it up that caused this problem. I have noticed on my gt3rs in the pits in formula b car my wheel would go to the left full lock. changed some settings I moved tire force down to 85 fixed the problem.

i had been running the same settings for a few hours and it was the best feel i'd had on the game so far! then CRACK wheel dead.

lethaLEEkill
17-06-2015, 06:42
Was this before or after the Patch? Lethal. I do have a Fanatec CSR wheel and 2 shifters, that will work for the PS4. I'm holding on to the pedals as the Thrustmaster's sucks and I'm getting a Basher mod to make them work.

thank you very much for the offer but just the one wheel should suffice, and it was after the patch this happened. thanks again though, humbled by the community response:triumphant:

Titzon Toast
17-06-2015, 08:29
OMG, really? that would be amazing! Was not expecting that at all, i'm in Australia though not Ireland, hope thats still ok. extremely grateful for your help and generosity!!


i had been running the same settings for a few hours and it was the best feel i'd had on the game so far! then CRACK wheel dead.

You're in Australia?! I saw Ballina as your location and told my buddy you were here in Ireland too!
I'll let him know that you've replied to the thread.

lethaLEEkill
17-06-2015, 09:55
You're in Australia?! I saw Ballina as your location and told my buddy you were here in Ireland too!
I'll let him know that you've replied to the thread.

yep, Ballina, NSW, Australia. probably better off just buying one here if its more than $100 shipping, now i think about it, but appreciate the gesture alot!

Titzon Toast
17-06-2015, 11:37
yep, Ballina, NSW, Australia. probably better off just buying one here if its more than $100 shipping, now i think about it, but appreciate the gesture alot!

It's all good brother, it's made round to go around!

SpeedFreakDTM
17-06-2015, 12:34
I have two possible solutions to your broken steering wheel.

1, Buy a controller.

2, <removed for promoting illegal practices>

KlubbinJay
17-06-2015, 15:45
Not to be rude, but i had the same issue with my wheel (T300RS). My wheel got broken before the latest update...caused by the FFB at pCars (PS4). Coming out of the pitlane at Spa Francorchamps the car smashed into the wall at the end of the pitlane what turned on the FFB at full power...my wheel-axle and wheel-barings got broken and popped off. Before that i didnt had any issues with my wheel...so any game can actually cause these issues. I also had it at the start of Gran Turismo 6 with my G27, but only at Silverstone GP. So its possible that this happend and caused by the game. My wheel got replaced and i already have it back since a week ago.

BTW; Great update SMS...the wheel issues and smashing into a wall at the end of some pitlanes are solved! ;)

Sum Dixon-Ear
17-06-2015, 17:30
yep, Ballina, NSW, Australia. probably better off just buying one here if its more than $100 shipping, now i think about it, but appreciate the gesture alot!
Australia... not Ireland... oh bugger!
I checked the shipping costs from the UK and it's going to sting you close to $200, considering Pagnian Imports have CSRs in stock for $300 that's probably a far better option considering you get the 12 month warranty as well as a brand new wheel.
Let me know what you think, but it's a hell of an expense for a used wheel which needs work.

TrevorAustin
17-06-2015, 18:48
I have two possible solutions to your broken steering wheel.

1, Buy a controller.

2, Order a new wheel, same as your old one.....Use new one for 3-4 months, then claim its broken......send old broken one back.....get a refund.

The 2nd option, has kept me in Xbox 360 controllers for the past 5 years.

I think its play.com who dont even check their returns. My friend used to work at a warehouse who bought pallets of returns from play.com, and half the stuff "returned" was either wrong, or missing. Alot were returned due to package damage, but still brand new hardware, which they tested and then re-sold.

Use a hairdryer on the serial number stickers etc, and they will peel right off and re stick perfectly, you just need to heat the sticker up, so the glue goes soft.

So steal it? Good advice.

lethaLEEkill
17-06-2015, 19:33
Australia... not Ireland... oh bugger!
I checked the shipping costs from the UK and it's going to sting you close to $200, considering Pagnian Imports have CSRs in stock for $300 that's probably a far better option considering you get the 12 month warranty as well as a brand new wheel.
Let me know what you think, but it's a hell of an expense for a used wheel which needs work.

yeah, really appreciate the offer!, might just go a gt3 for $250 brand new. thanks again though

lethaLEEkill
17-06-2015, 19:39
Not to be rude, but i had the same issue with my wheel (T300RS). My wheel got broken before the latest update...caused by the FFB at pCars (PS4). Coming out of the pitlane at Spa Francorchamps the car smashed into the wall at the end of the pitlane what turned on the FFB at full power...my wheel-axle and wheel-barings got broken and popped off. Before that i didnt had any issues with my wheel...so any game can actually cause these issues. I also had it at the start of Gran Turismo 6 with my G27, but only at Silverstone GP. So its possible that this happend and caused by the game. My wheel got replaced and i already have it back since a week ago.

BTW; Great update SMS...the wheel issues and smashing into a wall at the end of some pitlanes are solved! ;)

not really sure what your saying there mate? who replaced your wheel?

Spitfire77
17-06-2015, 20:21
EDIT - Thrustmaster is going to RMA my wheel - I guess it was bound to happen playing any racing game as after seeing the video I took showing the clunking sound they quickly responded with _ give us your info so we can RMA your wheel base.

I am not pissed off.. just bummed out but I had a similar experience this morning. Experienced the harsh sudden force one direction while leaving the pits..

This morning racing career mode - TD British something invitational (BAC, Superlight, and Ariel) - exiting the pits as soon as manual control was given the wheel was thrown harshly to the right and car crashed into the wall, anticipating this for the qualifying I gripped the wheel tighter but there was harsh sudden force to the right and smash into the wall. Result.. I now have a clunking feeling around the center of my T300 that was not there before. I tested it with a few different cars on different tracks but going left to right around center there is now always a clunking feeling.

The game likely exposed a weakness in my wheel - I would not say it destroyed it... I have seen others report this issue with the T300 before project cars was released and they had to have their wheels serviced or exchanged with Thrustmaster.

Sum Dixon-Ear
17-06-2015, 21:11
yeah, really appreciate the offer!, might just go a gt3 for $250 brand new. thanks again though
Sorry I couldn't help out bud, hope you get it sorted out soon.

lethaLEEkill
18-06-2015, 08:26
Sorry I couldn't help out bud, hope you get it sorted out soon.

no worries, thanks anyway:)

gotdirt410sprintcar
18-06-2015, 19:44
[QUOTE=lethaLEEkill;998343]yeah, really appreciate the offer!, might just go a gt3 for $250 brand new. thanks again though[/QUO
I only paid 200 in the states

Titzon Toast
18-06-2015, 22:04
[QUOTE=lethaLEEkill;998343]yeah, really appreciate the offer!, might just go a gt3 for $250 brand new. thanks again though[/QUO
I only paid 200 in the states

Different dollars though.

lethaLEEkill
19-06-2015, 07:51
[QUOTE=gotdirt410sprintcar;1000873]

Different dollars though.

and the GST:(

DJBLITZKRIEG
20-06-2015, 14:48
I too expressed the same concerns, when the wheel would suddenly smash to the left. I have a T500, had to fix a broken screw holding the shaft in place. Wheel can easily brake under its own force. My father a mechanical engineer had a look a look at the wheel in detail after he took it apart. Answer was - yes the wheel is not built to take those kinds of extreme forces, where it suddenly and violently rotates.

Solodan
26-07-2015, 08:04
im guessing one of the belts inside it broke. Had the same with mine. Fanatec replaces the back unit aparently if its under waranty, else they dont have spare belts.

Check if it is the belt by opening it up, and if its the front one (connected to the wheel, not the motor), order one of these:

http://m.ebay.com/itm/141195312156?_mwBanner=1

3mm pitch 90 teeth. its a bit narrower, but it works. believe the Original fanatec ones are carbon reinforced, these fiber.

Hint for all fanatec gt2/3 owners, if your wheel is a few years old and out of warranty, rotate the belt after a few years, the part running on the smaller wheel gets used on the same place constantly if you dont turn the wheel 900 degrees all the time. my guess is that it will last longer if you put the well used part on the bigger gear, so turn it 180 degrees.

I take no responsibility for your actions, make sure u are handy enough to open it up.

greetings Solodan

Redslayer
26-07-2015, 15:46
Surely that should be cover under manufacturer warranty as the wheel should not be able to generate enough force to break itself no matter what the console tells it to do it's still governed by the power of its own internal motors?
Hope you can get it sorted.

Fanatec will tell him it's a broken axle and that it can only be caused by mistreatment and offer to sell him another wheel. They did that with my wheel. But I got lucky and the noise was coming from some loose plastics. TC is screwed.

Sankyo
26-07-2015, 19:59
im guessing one of the belts inside it broke. Had the same with mine. Fanatec replaces the back unit aparently if its under waranty, else they dont have spare belts.

They don't have spare belts because repairing a broken belt takes a lot of time and effort and isn't sensible from a business perspective.

-IGN- Spinster
26-07-2015, 20:16
Typically Software isn't capable of killing Hardware (apart from maybe a bug in a wheels firmware).

Seems just like bad luck (or maybe just aging materials).

Sorry for you...


It can,, (Nothing to do with P-Cars).. Depends how you set up the FFB..

Once I did a 4 hour race with extreme FFB settings in a off road race with rF1 (I was prepared with a Backup wheel).. I had to do a real hardware pit stop and change my Momo wheel because I burnout the FFB motor. lol

I still managed to place 2cd.

lethaLEEkill
27-07-2015, 11:29
Fanatec will tell him it's a broken axle and that it can only be caused by mistreatment and offer to sell him another wheel. They did that with my wheel. But I got lucky and the noise was coming from some loose plastics. TC is screwed.

pretty much, it was a broken end stop(now i have a gt3):sour:

Solodan
27-07-2015, 15:38
They don't have spare belts because repairing a broken belt takes a lot of time and effort and isn't sensible from a business perspective.

I have to agree with their business perspective, takes a few hours to replace it so it would be expencive for them in labour. Would be nice if they did have the spare belts for the handy users, replacing the whole wheel for a 5 dollar belt..... Im happy with my clubsport wheelbase v2 tho, only lacks xbox 360 support, reason why i did fix the old wheel. (dont think there will ever be a xbox 360 rim for the clubsport wheelbase?)

Sankyo
27-07-2015, 20:46
I have to agree with their business perspective, takes a few hours to replace it so it would be expencive for them in labour. Would be nice if they did have the spare belts for the handy users, replacing the whole wheel for a 5 dollar belt.....
I've sold belts for a handful of euros to handy customers whose warranty had run out as I (as a Fanatec repair agent) had some lying around ;)

TrevorAustin
27-07-2015, 21:08
I have to agree with their business perspective, takes a few hours to replace it so it would be expencive for them in labour. Would be nice if they did have the spare belts for the handy users, replacing the whole wheel for a 5 dollar belt..... Im happy with my clubsport wheelbase v2 tho, only lacks xbox 360 support, reason why i did fix the old wheel. (dont think there will ever be a xbox 360 rim for the clubsport wheelbase?)

I thought there already was an xbox rim? Which they are now selling off eol?

Solodan
30-07-2015, 18:15
I've sold belts for a handful of euros to handy customers whose warranty had run out as I (as a Fanatec repair agent) had some lying around ;)

Handy to know, the belt directly on the motor had some tears on the outside aswell i noticed while replacing the other one ;)