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Miker
17-06-2015, 12:47
Well that should please all those who said the Ffb was too weak, gonna have arms like popeye soon!

P1ckN1cker2406
17-06-2015, 13:17
Yep definitely too strong now. With my TX Wheel and FFB at 100 and Tyreforce at 90 the wheel is so heavy that i have trouble steering the car. Something went wrong with the FFB changes in this Patch.

Ian Bell
17-06-2015, 13:18
Yep definitely too strong now. With my TX Wheel and FFB at 100 and Tyreforce at 90 the wheel is so heavy that i have trouble steering the car. Something went wrong with the FFB changes in this Patch.

Nothing went wrong. Turn it down a bit?

Sankyo
17-06-2015, 13:21
You can't please everyone, so if you think it's too strong you can turn it down.

Beltoon
17-06-2015, 13:25
Nothing went wrong. Turn it down a bit?

That's probably a good idea. Damn what a difference. FFB at 100 is Schwarzenegger mode ;)

Should turning down the FFB do the trick or do I need another guide to set up the rest of the configuration?

Ian Bell
17-06-2015, 13:26
That's probably a good idea. Damn what a difference. FFB at 100 is Schwarzenegger mode ;)

Should turning down the FFB do the trick or do I need another guide to set up the rest of the configuration?

We've made a lot of improvements to the feel. Just focus on the strength being comfortable, at least initially.

LextersQuest
17-06-2015, 13:31
Something deffinatly different.
In calibrating wheel - my wheel keeps turning left right wen choosing 90degrees.
Even in menus now wen i turn wheel little it start jerking left right.
Tried a lap, yes theres more ffb now but something doesnt feel right.

Sankyo
17-06-2015, 13:32
That's probably a good idea. Damn what a difference. FFB at 100 is Schwarzenegger mode ;)

Should turning down the FFB do the trick or do I need another guide to set up the rest of the configuration?
You have two basic options: turn down FFB value or turn down tyre force value. They'll have different effects on FFB feel, so you'll need to experiment yourself what works best.

P1ckN1cker2406
17-06-2015, 13:32
Nothing went wrong. Turn it down a bit?

Yeah thatīs what iīm doing now. But the PC guys are saying the same after Patch 1.4. And before i downloaded the Patch today, the FFB was great with my Settings. But now itīs so much stronger than before.

Sankyo
17-06-2015, 13:33
Something deffinatly different.
In calibrating wheel - my wheel keeps turning left right wen choosing 90degrees.
Even in menus now wen i turn wheel little it start jerking left right.
Tried a lap, yes theres more ffb now but something doesnt feel right.
You need to hold and keep the wheel at 90 degrees when calibrating. What wheel are you using?

LextersQuest
17-06-2015, 13:42
You need to hold and keep the wheel at 90 degrees when calibrating. What wheel are you using?

Im using the Thrustmaster TX
Yes i am holding wheel at 90 then have to press the A button and then wheel starts to jerk left right.

Sankyo
17-06-2015, 13:43
Im using the Thrustmaster TX
Yes i am holding wheel at 90 then have to press the A button and then wheel starts to jerk left right.
Like I replied in the other thread, once you calibrated your wheel the menu centering spring is activated to keep the wheel centered when navigating the menus. It sounds like your wheel is in some sort of drift mode with very low resistance, so that it starts to oscillate?

FuriousDemon
17-06-2015, 13:43
There's an issue with the very high FFB (clipping) if you reset the wheel calibration after the 1.4 patch (at least on PC). I believe SMS is looking into it. I was able to fix it by deleting my profile.

Beltoon
17-06-2015, 13:45
We've made a lot of improvements to the feel. Just focus on the strength being comfortable, at least initially.


I can't exactly tell what it is but it does feel different. Setting the Force Feedback to 70 did the job for me, feels great now. Good job people at SMS! I do hope the multiplayer lobby's get patched soon, looking forward to racing with more than 8 people without random dc's or people unable to join...

LextersQuest
17-06-2015, 13:48
There's an issue with the very high FFB (clipping) if you reset the wheel calibration after the 1.4 patch (at least on PC). I believe SMS is looking into it. I was able to fix it by deleting my profile.

Well i gues xbox also has a problem on recalibrating wheel after patch.

LextersQuest
17-06-2015, 13:50
To bad but for the moment im not going to risk my wheel with this game anymore.

The way its behaving now is just not normal.

Miker
17-06-2015, 13:50
It's loads better, I have re calibrated my wheel, set my tyre force at 150 and left Ffb at 100, then turned down master and sop scales on the cars setting from what I was using...it still a bit too heavy for me so more tinkering needed but the key is I have a much better feel for grip now, much easier to tell when the wheels are locking and when you are losing grip cornering...

Bobbydakid
17-06-2015, 14:02
It's loads better, I have re calibrated my wheel, set my tyre force at 150 and left Ffb at 100, then turned down master and sop scales on the cars setting from what I was using...it still a bit too heavy for me so more tinkering needed but the key is I have a much better feel for grip now, much easier to tell when the wheels are locking and when you are losing grip cornering...

I've got the tire force and ffb at 100, using Jack Spades ffb 66% settings and it's definitely different after the patch. You can feel the grip a lot better, it will take some getting used to after the patch but it is better now.

TrevorAustin
17-06-2015, 14:22
Yeah thatīs what iīm doing now. But the PC guys are saying the same after Patch 1.4. And before i downloaded the Patch today, the FFB was great with my Settings. But now itīs so much stronger than before.

The PC issue is a different problem, I don't think you can have the same issue. Try turning down tire force, as you will lose dynamic range if you turn down FFB as I understand it. I would suggest 60 as a good starting point.

Lagoa
17-06-2015, 14:25
You have two basic options: turn down FFB value or turn down tyre force value. They'll have different effects on FFB feel, so you'll need to experiment yourself what works best.

Turn down FFB value is the master scale in garage setup that you are reffering to? Or you mean the overall FFB in options? And tyre force is original at 100 right?

Schnizz58
17-06-2015, 14:28
overall FFB in options

This

RoccoTTS
17-06-2015, 14:42
Whow... The ffb is amazing now.
I reset the wheel settings in general menu(press y) and use the Jack Spade's classic settings in Garage menu.
It's perfect now. But i think if you don't use the Jack Spade's settings and use the standard settings the ffb is a little strong.
Good job SMS and again a big thanks to Jack Spade.

Stag
17-06-2015, 15:07
My ffb is fantastic on my mad catz 100ffb 50 tf.
In fact it's the best ffb I've ever felt any game any wheel.

Rxhevntt
17-06-2015, 15:45
I think the Xbox FFB fix gets a standing ovation from me. I was starting to think I was crazy with people confirming over and over that there was nothing wrong with it on Xbox. I felt like I constantly defending against assertions that I didn't have it calibrated right. Those are the same people complaining about it being too strong now I'm sure.

A+ for the fix. A+ for patience with these new 180 degree complaints. You'll never win.

Thanks for answering our concerns SMS.

Brent G
17-06-2015, 16:40
With tyre force at 90 it feels nice without the notchy feel, but why does the steering go really heavy with the slightest application of the brake whilst steering. Do I need to turn down the brake sensitivity? Im using JSpades ffb settings by the way.

Umer Ahmad
17-06-2015, 16:44
Thats probably simulating more load on the front tyres. I think one of the FFB tweaker variables controls this effect, Jack Spade or ermo know better than me.

Schnizz58
17-06-2015, 16:54
Thats probably simulating more load on the front tyres. I think one of the FFB tweaker variables controls this effect, Jack Spade or ermo know better than me.
Agreed.

Brent, I'm not sure which parameter you want to mess with. Try either Fx or Mz but remember your old values in case you need to put them back. Fx is the force in the longitudinal direction (front & back), Mz is the twisting force (actually a torque) on the steering linkage. I'm thinking Mz is the one to fiddle with because as weight shifts forwards during braking, it will get harder to turn the wheel, which is what Mz controls I think. Certainly those guys should know the answer too.

Jon4410
17-06-2015, 17:05
Well done everyone at SMS with fixing the FFB... it is so much better now! After I reset everything I turned FFB down to 70, and it is literally perfect now. I am now thoroughly enjoying this game with my TX wheel. Thank you for listening to the community and working to fix the ffb issues with the Xbox one.

Beagle Five
17-06-2015, 17:05
Man I want a wheel now... Cant really get to grips with the controller. Have good settings on it but its still not the car I am driving but the person steering in the car. Need to get rid of the interpreter!

CLOWN KAOSZ
17-06-2015, 17:13
Already posted it somewhere else but...

The FFB is amazing compared to what it was, I love how you have to work now :).
Unfortunatly I've got one issue, when I plug the usb in the xbox1 and the wheel is calibrating it keeps clipping from left to right instead of centering.

Someone got some tips???

Brent G
17-06-2015, 17:19
Agreed.

Brent, I'm not sure which parameter you want to mess with. Try either Fx or Mz but remember your old values in case you need to put them back. Fx is the force in the longitudinal direction (front & back), Mz is the twisting force (actually a torque) on the steering linkage. I'm thinking Mz is the one to fiddle with because as weight shifts forwards during braking, it will get harder to turn the wheel, which is what Mz controls I think. Certainly those guys should know the answer too.

Cheers Schnizz, I'll have a play later just wanna get the feel right 1st. Its a total different feel now so it seems a little alien. (E.T perhaps?)

CLOWN KAOSZ
17-06-2015, 17:23
...double post...

Seps1974
17-06-2015, 17:24
Do you guys have the FFB on the wheel base at 75(factory value)?

Frog T
17-06-2015, 17:38
just downloading the patch now. can somebody please tell me if you can turn the wheel below 10mph please?

BellCurve
17-06-2015, 17:43
I actually turned it up to 110 along with Sop scale. Loving it.

Brent G
17-06-2015, 17:44
just downloading the patch now. can somebody please tell me if you can turn the wheel below 10mph please?

When stood still the wheel is stiff, just as before.

FA RACING 01
17-06-2015, 17:46
After patch download my FFB was way too strong too. Just turned down FFB strength to 80 (no reset) and it was good as always. Thanks SMS.

Frog T
17-06-2015, 17:47
When stood still the wheel is stiff, just as before.
Thanks mate, I don't want to throw the 'sim' word around but this doesn't happen in my real car :/

Seps1974
17-06-2015, 17:47
just downloading the patch now. can somebody please tell me if you can turn the wheel below 10mph please?

You can't

Ch1ps N Queso
17-06-2015, 17:47
After patch download my FFB was way too strong too. Just turned down FFB strength to 80 (no reset) and it was good as always. Thanks SMS.

This seems right. On PC I thought 100 was too much and turned it down to 70.

Brent G
17-06-2015, 17:48
Do you guys have the FFB on the wheel base at 75(factory value)?

I have both FFB strength and Tire Force at 90. Im using Jack Spade Classics with Master and Sop at 48. Feels nice apart from the real heavy steering when braking on turn in.

GRTfast
17-06-2015, 18:07
I thought Jack spade said something about loosing dynamics if you turn the FFB scale down. I think he said to reduce tire force instead....

RoccoTTS
17-06-2015, 18:17
I thought Jack spade said something about loosing dynamics if you turn the FFB scale down. I think he said to reduce tire force instead....

Yes, it is better to set general ffb at 100 and lower your tire ffb if you think ffb is too strong.

Ch1ps N Queso
17-06-2015, 18:33
I thought Jack spade said something about loosing dynamics if you turn the FFB scale down. I think he said to reduce tire force instead....

Good to know.

ermo
17-06-2015, 18:35
With tyre force at 90 it feels nice without the notchy feel, but why does the steering go really heavy with the slightest application of the brake whilst steering. Do I need to turn down the brake sensitivity? Im using JSpades ffb settings by the way.

As I understand it, all forces acting through the suspension on the steering rack get turned into a twisting force on your FFB wheel like so:

* Fx controls the felt magnitude of the difference in longitudinal force between FL and FR. If one wheel has more longitudinal grip than the other when braking, this is extra grip is felt as the FFB pulling in the direction of more grip.

* Fy controls the felt magnitude of the lateral acceleration. Steady state cornering dominates here, especially on high-downforce, slick-shod cars which can generate massive side loads during high speed cornering.

* Fz controls the felt magnitude of the difference in vertical loads between FL and FR. Weight transfer to the front axle during braking amplifies this; if there's a difference in vertical load between FL and FR, the FFB will pull in the direction of the higher load. Imagine that you are easing off the brake pedal for a right turn, loading the FL tyre. Fz (and Fx!) will tend to pull to the left in that scenario, making it slightly harder to turn the wheel into the corner.

* Mz is a little harder to pin down, as it has more to do with understanding how the relationship between caster (and therefore trail), scrub radius, camber, king pin inclination and the current state of the contact patch alters how much the wheel wants to return to both straight ahead from a suspension geometry perspective, but also how much the wheel wants to turn to face the direction in which the car is currently travelling (these two aren't always congruent -- imagine countersteering in an oversteer condition for instance). In my experience, Mz is mostly felt in the initial part of the turn or during rapid changes in direction (transients), but gradually diminishes as you reach peak slip angle. Mz will tend to indicate the direction the car is travelling -- it isn't called "self-aligning moment" for nothing. :)

IIRC Jack turns down Fy relative to Mz, Fz and Fx, which in my (limited) experience translates to a more 'lively' steering feel with more nuance, since Fy tends to be toned down and not as dominant, leaving the steering with more freedom to 'breathe', if that makes sense. A lot of Fy can drown out the nuances of the shifts in weight occurring during performance driving, especially on less powerful consumer FFB wheels like the G27 that I own.

You'll probably need to carefully analyse during which part of braking and corner entry the steering feels too heavy -- post your thoughts here and we'll see what we can do. :)

EDIT: And yeah, keep the FFB setting as high as you can, as that controls the 'dynamic range' of your wheel. As a general rule, adjust FFB as high as it will go and then adjust TF down to suit, as TF generally controls when the FFB signal 'clips'.

CLOWN KAOSZ
17-06-2015, 18:44
Does anyone also has the problem with the automatic calibrating of the wheel????

Brent G
17-06-2015, 19:11
As I understand it, all forces acting through the suspension on the steering rack get turned into a twisting force on your FFB wheel like so:

* Fx controls the felt magnitude of the difference in longitudinal force between FL and FR. If one wheel has more longitudinal grip than the other when braking, this is extra grip is felt as the FFB pulling in the direction of more grip.

* Fy controls the felt magnitude of the lateral acceleration. Steady state cornering dominates here, especially on high-downforce, slick-shod cars which can generate massive side loads during high speed cornering.

* Fz controls the felt magnitude of the difference in vertical loads between FL and FR. Weight transfer to the front axle during braking amplifies this; if there's a difference in vertical load between FL and FR, the FFB will turn in the direction of the higher load. Imagine that you are easing off the brake pedal for a right turn, loading the FL tyre. Fz (and Fx!) will tend to pull to the left in that scenario, making it slightly harder to turn the wheel into the corner.

* Mz is a little harder to pin down, as it has more to do with understanding how the relationship between caster (and therefore trail), scrub radius, camber, king pin inclination and the current state of the contact patch alters how much the wheel wants to return to both straight ahead from a suspension geometry perspective, but also how much the wheel wants to turn face the direction in which the car is currently travelling (these two aren't always congruent -- imagine countersteering in an oversteer condition for instance). In my experience, Mz is mostly felt in the initial part of the turn or during rapid changes in direction (transients), but gradually diminishes as you reach peak slip angle. Mz will tend to indicate the direction the car is travelling -- it isn't called "self-aligning moment" for nothing. :)

IIRC Jack turns down Fy relative to Mz, Fz and Fx, which in my (limited) experience translates to a more 'lively' steering feel with more nuance, since Fy tends to be toned down and not as dominant, leaving the steering with more freedom to 'breathe', if that makes sense. A lot of Fy can drown out the nuances of the shifts in weight occuring during performance driving, especially on less powerful consumer FFB wheels like the G27 that I own.

You'll probably need to carefully analyse during which part of braking and corner entry the steering feels too heavy -- post your thoughts here and we'll see what we can do. :)

EDIT: And yeah, keep the FFB setting as high as you can, as that controls the 'dynamic range' of your wheel. As a general rule, adjust FFB as high as it will go and then adjust TF down to suit, as TF generally controls when the FFB signal 'clips'.

Thanks Ermo. Its all a bit technical for me, and by a bit I mean a lot! The heavy feel is at immediate turn in and at any speed. It also only requires a light touch of the brake pedal. Something thats also apparent although not related to the fore mentioned issue is that the steering can feel 'notchy' at times. For instance I was qualifying earlier in a BMW M1 and the steering felt fine. However come race time it was notchy as hell, infact to the point that I quit game. Pre patch there was never a notchy feel, infact with JS' FFB settings it was great for me. It was smooth and you could really feel what the car was doing, Id say perfect if not for the straight line wheel oscillation. Its getting frustrating now as I dont know wether to keep implementing JS' settings or to just use defaults. To be honest Im sick of spending more time in settings menus than I do racing. Its SUPER frustrating, how I wish I could just pick up and Play. Or at least undo todays changes, as yesterday after days of tweaking I was finally enjoying the feel and now Im back to square one.

RoccoTTS
17-06-2015, 19:18
Thanks Ermo. Its all a bit technical for me, and by a bit I mean a lot! The heavy feel is at immediate turn in and at any speed. It also only requires a light touch of the brake pedal. Something thats also apparent although not related to the fore mentioned issue is that the steering can feel 'notchy' at times. For instance I was qualifying earlier in a BMW M1 and the steering felt fine. However come race time it was notchy as hell, infact to the point that I quit game. Pre patch there was never a notchy feel, infact with JS' FFB settings it was great for me. It was smooth and you could really feel what the car was doing, Id say perfect if not for the straight line wheel oscillation. Its getting frustrating now as I dont know wether to keep implementing JS' settings or to just use defaults. To be honest Im sick of spending more time in settings menus than I do racing. Its SUPER frustrating, how I wish I could just pick up and Play. Or at least undo todays changes, as yesterday after days of tweaking I was finally enjoying the feel and now Im back to square one.

I see you have your master scale and sop at 48 ? That's way too much. You better start with standard settings in general menu and use the Jack Spade's settings like they are.

BellCurve
17-06-2015, 19:28
I actually turned it up to 110 along with Sop scale. Loving it.

For some reason I thought I was playing post patch when I made this comment. Just for the record I am NOT playing at 110 post patch haha. 80 feels just right IMO.

Olijke Poffer
17-06-2015, 19:29
All in all, it would be nice to see a more in depth manual on how to setup the wheel and what all the FFB settings in pcars do.
As far as I understand now, after the 1.4 patch, is reset the settings back to standard an only reduce the amount of the master volume FFB?
I'll get my wheel tomorrow and to be honest, I really don't know how to set it up. I've seen some vids on how to setup but all from before the patch...

beetes_juice
17-06-2015, 19:30
Does anyone also has the problem with the automatic calibrating of the wheel????

I did at first. Whats going on?

Sean Reinhardl
17-06-2015, 19:30
Does anyone also has the problem with the automatic calibrating of the wheel????

Yes I do wheel setting it self too a one o'clock position in pit lane

Ch1ps N Queso
17-06-2015, 19:33
All in all, it would be nice to see a more in depth manual on how to setup the wheel and what all the FFB settings in pcars do.
As far as I understand now, after the 1.4 patch, is reset the settings back to standard an only reduce the amount of the master volume FFB?
I'll get my wheel tomorrow and to be honest, I really don't know how to set it up. I've seen some vids on how to setup but all from before the patch...

1. Connect to PC and install updated firmware.
2. Connect to the X1 and start pCARS using the wheel, not the controller.
3. Calibrate it.

After that I'd simply drive it with default settings before making any changes. You might actually like how it feels.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
17-06-2015, 19:36
I've got my master scales and sop set between 22 and 32 right now depending on the car. I need to get use to it still as before patch my wheel was perfect I was setting laps faster than with a pad.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
17-06-2015, 19:47
Yes it's starting to feel really good. More feel for the car. Be sure and do your braking before cornering then the wheel has a nice light feeling as you hit the apex and come out smooth! I like it

Brent G
17-06-2015, 19:52
I see you have your master scale and sop at 48 ? That's way too much. You better start with standard settings in general menu and use the Jack Spade's settings like they are.

Yeah mate i dropped em back to 36 and saved on the M1 as I left the game. It was just that the car in qualifying was a different one in race.

Dynomight Motorsports
17-06-2015, 19:59
This Patch should have only effected your wheel globally. So only adjust the Tire Force... If you are using Jack Spades FFB settings go back to the original settings.

donpost
17-06-2015, 20:01
Just went straight into some practice without recalibrating or anything like that. The FFB is definitely stronger, and also better somehow - it feels more communicative. I reduced tyre force from 100 to 75 because for me it was a bit TOO strong.

Nice work guys!

Brent G
17-06-2015, 20:25
I increased FFB force back to 100 and dropped Tire Force instead to 80 i think,that coupled with JS' master back to 36 (good advice Rocco) and it did feel better. Its just so frustrating when youv'e been at work all day and you just wanna come home and race but instead you spend 4+ hrs in settings. I suppose its like anything new it takes a little getting used to. Better go chill now I'm a short fused (read mardy) twat when Im tired! Tommorow's gonna bring a new day. Thanks for your tips again lads......and lasses, enjoy your evening. ;)

Beagle Five
17-06-2015, 20:27
Yes it's starting to feel really good. More feel for the car. Be sure and do your braking before cornering then the wheel has a nice light feeling as you hit the apex and come out smooth! I like it

In real life, trailbraking is the fastest way around many corners, if its not possible to do it because the game tries to teach you not to turn and brake, then maybe something needs to be corrected.

Maybe whats wrong here isnt in the controller or the wheel at all...

LMR ShOwTiMe875
17-06-2015, 20:33
Yes I know trail braking is a way to be faster but I'm just trying to give some advice as far as people saying they have heavy steering when entering. It's most likely because of braking to late.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
17-06-2015, 20:36
In fact I was trail braking a few corners last night at oulton trying to get a good pace for a league race this weekend.

Dynomight Motorsports
17-06-2015, 20:58
Anyone know what the Bottom two adjustments are supposed to be. I think its the "Soft Clipping". I had adjusted mine so I could run 100 tire force before the patch. But I don't remember what default is!!!

RoccoTTS
17-06-2015, 21:03
Anyone know what the Bottom two adjustments are supposed to be. I think its the "Soft Clipping". I had adjusted mine so I could run 100 tire force before the patch. But I don't remember what default is!!!

Both are 0.

Tobi Lerone
17-06-2015, 21:08
Feels amazing to me, I only got the thrustmaster wheel this week and what a difference it was tonight. Amazing work guys!

LMR ShOwTiMe875
17-06-2015, 21:14
Anyone know what the Bottom two adjustments are supposed to be. I think its the "Soft Clipping". I had adjusted mine so I could run 100 tire force before the patch. But I don't remember what default is!!!

Pre 1.4 patch I had soft clipping set at 1.50 and .50 but I switched it back to .0.

Jubis
17-06-2015, 21:25
Couple of hours playning my biceps hurts, but FFB is fantastic. First lowered overall force but then came back and lowered tire force to 75. That feels good. Mayby stiffer than real life cars but never driven BAC mono, superkart or RGT-8 in real life. Just clocked 1.28.xxx RGT-8 Road America. All assist off and Pro handling model. Feels fantastic thanks for the Patch SMS.

Schnizz58
17-06-2015, 21:48
Is there a definitive procedure to follow for updating the FFB? For the record, XB1 and TX Wheel using JS's 66% setting. I know that the per car settings are not affected but are there things I need to change in the global settings? Does this sound right?
1. Install patch
2. Calibrate Wheel
3. Any settings I need to change?
4. Drive
5. Adjust Tire Force as needed, go to 4
6. Driving nirvana

Robhd
17-06-2015, 21:49
Have only had chance to have a go with a couple of kart racing... Steering is a lot heavier and ffb much stronger with my TX wheel... Think I may have to tone down the ffb from a 100 a bit but overall this is a brilliant update...

Well done team... Hope Ian is buying the beers for you all tonight?

PS... My engineer has gone back to sleep.... Lazy sod! Can I have another one please?

mau2494
17-06-2015, 21:54
I downloaded patch 1.4 and this are the settings i like the most:

FFb: 80
Tyre Force: 100
Steering Dead Zone: 0

After that you left everything else stock and just move "Master Scale" up to 40.

That should work for you, please let me know what you think.

Frog T
17-06-2015, 21:58
The Tx is alive. I have not changed any settings and a hour on Monza, my wheel still jerks from left to right when stationary after a cock up. also wheel lock below 10mph but when your going it feels amazing.

Schnizz58
17-06-2015, 22:03
I downloaded patch 1.4 and this are the settings i like the most:

FFb: 80
Tyre Force: 100
Steering Dead Zone: 0

After that you left everything else stock and just move "Master Scale" up to 40.

That should work for you, please let me know what you think.
Thanks. I'm not going to touch Master Scale as I have all of those set the way I want them for every car. I'm only looking to make global changes to settings at this point.

ermo
17-06-2015, 22:10
Why do people keep suggesting turning down the FFB knob when it should mostly be left at 100% and the Tyre Force be adjusted instead?

The FFB knob controls the dynamic range of the FFB wheel; if the motors in the FFB wheel can provide up to e.g. 15 Nm of torque when at 100%, why would you want to limit the range to only 80% or 0.8 * 15Nm = 12Nm?

If the FFB feels too harsh, turn down the Tyre Force, which can be considered the master volume for the signal coming out of the Project CARS physics engine, but leave the FFB at 100%.

If you like a setting of FFB: 80 and TF: 100, try switching the two around to FFB: 100 and TF: 80. In most cases, that will allow the wheel to give your slightly more fine detail about what the car is doing. If that feels wrong, keep lowering the TF until it no longer feels wrong.

Schnizz58
17-06-2015, 22:19
If you like a setting of FFB: 80 and TF: 100, try switching the two around to FFB: 100 and TF: 80. In most cases, that will allow the wheel to give your slightly more fine detail about what the car is doing. If that feels wrong, keep lowering the TF until it no longer feels wrong.
Makes sense to me ermo. The FFB setting is the final gain of the system, the Tire Force controls the magnitude of the tire input to the system. An analogy that some might understand but most probably won't: If you want a clean tone (minimal distortion) out of your guitar amp, you turn the input gain down and the master volume up. Doing it the other way around will overdrive the amplifier and produce distortion (which is often a good thing but not in this case).

Tone Marley
17-06-2015, 22:35
Nothing went wrong. Turn it down a bit?

agreed..


Using the thrustmaster tx wheel

I turned my tire force down from 100 to 80
Turned down the relative adjustment gain from 1.23 to .63
and for each car I was at master scale 100 now 60-80 (depending on the car) and the SOP to the same as the master..

The wheel feels fantastic.. I was able to take 4 number ones today in time trials on California Reverse(stock car, Formula A, Prototype) and forward full(stock car) thanks to the new settings :)

Doug914
17-06-2015, 22:45
Just a quick note from me, if you are a bit lost on what to tone down, leave the tire force @ 100 and turn down the FFB force to suit. I personally use only 60% on a Fanatech CSW V2 , but its a nasty mother. It'll break your wrist if you're not carefull and holding on tight approaching a wall hit.

Schnizz58
17-06-2015, 22:55
Just a quick note from me, if you are a bit lost on what to tone down, leave the tire force @ 100 and turn down the FFB force to suit. I personally use only 60% on a Fanatech CSW V2 , but its a nasty mother. It'll break your wrist if you're not carefull and holding on tight approaching a wall hit.
See ermo's post up above. It seems like it should be the other way around. 'course you're the guy that wrote the code so you ought to know.

MadMuhammad6
17-06-2015, 23:06
Well i gues xbox also has a problem on recalibrating wheel after patch.

If you're referring to the centring spring inducing a small wobble continuously after calibration. Mine does this too. I just grab the wheel and it stops, then I can let go again. Same prob?

nissan4ever
17-06-2015, 23:09
I'm curious, is it fair to say the the FFB on RWD R30 LMP1 is real stiff at high speed (to turn wheel) because of the amount of down force being pushed down on the front tires? I personally love it. Care to chime in Doug?

I've driven Formula Rookie @Oulton Park Island & RWD R30 LMP1 @Spa. I experienced no clipping or wobble at all.

I'm definitely loving how the FFB is now!

ermo
17-06-2015, 23:28
Just a quick note from me, if you are a bit lost on what to tone down, leave the tire force @ 100 and turn down the FFB force to suit. I personally use only 60% on a Fanatech CSW V2 , but its a nasty mother. It'll break your wrist if you're not carefull and holding on tight approaching a wall hit.


See ermo's post up above. It seems like it should be the other way around. 'course you're the guy that wrote the code so you ought to know.

A bit of context is in order here, I think. First of all, Doug is a real-life racer and has built his own race cars. Among other things, he tweaks AI waypoints, tyres and car physics data. He's not a software engineer, so he doesn't design and implement the MADNESS engine code though (he's got staff for that...) ;)

On weaker wheels (like my G27), I'd leave the FFB at 100% and tune the TF accordingly to get the most out of the rather limited dynamic range of the more consumer-oriented wheels.

On very strong wheels (like Doug's CSW v2) it can be necessary to turn down the FFB to avoid injuries (!). But the CSW v2 is a bit of a beast, so that advice applies only to that and similarly powerful FFB wheels.

mau2494
17-06-2015, 23:30
Just a quick note from me, if you are a bit lost on what to tone down, leave the tire force @ 100 and turn down the FFB force to suit. I personally use only 60% on a Fanatech CSW V2 , but its a nasty mother. It'll break your wrist if you're not carefull and holding on tight approaching a wall hit.

Thatīs what i did but left FFB at 80.

My logic tells me that the right thing would be to move Tyre Force and leave FFB at 100, but it just feel akward.

MonK3Y
17-06-2015, 23:33
I like it that way, I'm using 75% FFB and 100 Tire Force. Depends on the car too, rumble strips on an open wheeler like the Formula C will make you regret you ran wide but with a road car it's smooth as :)

Ixoye56
18-06-2015, 00:38
I don't like excessive ffb so I use tire force at 60 and everything else at default, and it feels great to me.

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 00:46
A bit of context is in order here, I think. First of all, Doug is a real-life racer and has built his own race cars. Among other things, he tweaks AI waypoints, tyres and car physics data. He's not a software engineer, so he doesn't design and implement the MADNESS engine code though (he's got staff for that...) ;)

On weaker wheels (like my G27), I'd leave the FFB at 100% and tune the TF accordingly to get the most out of the rather limited dynamic range of the more consumer-oriented wheels.

On very strong wheels (like Doug's CSW v2) it can be necessary to turn down the FFB to avoid injuries (!). But the CSW v2 is a bit of a beast, so that advice applies only to that and similarly powerful FFB wheels.
Ah thank you, that does clear up some things. I suppose I'll try it both ways and see which one feels more dynamic. It may be that it's such a subtle difference that I won't feel much.

stux
18-06-2015, 01:24
Anyone know what the Bottom two adjustments are supposed to be. I think its the "Soft Clipping". I had adjusted mine so I could run 100 tire force before the patch. But I don't remember what default is!!!

Only way to get it back to default (ie zero ie off) is to reset your settings.

x L0rd K0jima x
18-06-2015, 01:53
Before I started Project CARS 1.4, I was looking on this thread saying that ffb at 100 and tire force at 100 is very strong. Now when I tried the stock settings, I could feel more of the road, but to me the fbb overall sort of still felt weak on 1.4. Is the stock settings in options and the stock settings for any of the cars supposed to feel that way (I did calibrate the wheel, pedals, and put the steering deadzone to 0)?

LMR ShOwTiMe875
18-06-2015, 01:58
Before I started Project CARS 1.4, I was looking on this thread saying that ffb at 100 and tire force at 100 is very strong. Now when I tried the stock settings, I could feel more of the road, but to me the fbb overall sort of still felt weak on 1.4. Is the stock settings in options and the stock settings for any of the cars supposed to feel that way (I did calibrate the wheel, pedals, and put the steering deadzone to 0)?

You can go adjust for more strength under your car settings with the master scale. Also set the sop the same level that you adjust the master scale to.

x L0rd K0jima x
18-06-2015, 02:21
You can go adjust for more strength under your car settings with the master scale. Also set the sop the same level that you adjust the master scale to.

So I doubled the master scale (26 X 2 = 52) and put the SOP scale to where the master scale is as you said, and I must say now the cars feel like they have life with both the FFB and Tire Force at 100. Thanks! For a second I was a little worried lol:o

GRTfast
18-06-2015, 02:56
Loving the new FFB feel... I use tire force at 40 and FFB at 100. I like a light, dynamic wheel. Only gripe is that some cars (formula C is the worst) have a bad oscillation at stand still and if you loosen your grip while going in a straight line. Aside from that it's damn good.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
18-06-2015, 03:22
So I doubled the master scale (26 X 2 = 52) and put the SOP scale to where the master scale is as you said, and I must say now the cars feel like they have life with both the FFB and Tire Force at 100. Thanks! For a second I was a little worried lol:o

No worries bud. I had same problem after the update. At first it was too strong, then to weak, and then just right with those tweaks. Glad it's working good for ya also!

gtFOOTw
18-06-2015, 03:31
Put me down in the happy camp, FFB feels great!

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 03:43
I see what y'all were saying about it being too strong on the TX Wheel. I be all swole. I knocked Tire Force down to 80 and it needs to come down a little more but it's starting to feel pretty good. I ran some test laps on Spa in different cars. For one thing, I now see why Eau Rouge/Raidillon is so hard! I could really feel the compression at Eau Rouge and then over the crest at Raidillon the car got a lot lighter. I also see what some people were talking about with regard to braking in a straight line. I had problems trying to trail brake in a FWD car (Clio Cup) but that car never liked to trail brake before 1.4 either. Steering got really firm with my foot on the brake, which is expected of course. I didn't have any trouble with the RWD BMW M1.

Dynomight Motorsports
18-06-2015, 04:01
I had a pretty good handle on the previous FFB settings. And I had to qualify tonight for a race on Sunday losing a whole second due to the different feel in my wheel. My car before felt like it had good power-steering, and now it has a bad powersteering pump or the belt fell off. It definitely doesn't feel like Rack n Pinion.

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 04:04
Yeah I don't think I'm very fast right now either. I'm going to have to learn to drive all over again. But at least I have the feel to be able to do it.

m3lover1
18-06-2015, 04:18
Sorry kind of off topic but my bro just got TX for his xbox one. When he plugs it into the xbox one at the dashboard, is the wheel supposed to calibrate in that it automatically turns full lock left, then right, then back to middle? Also when he calibrates it in game, it seems like the maximum full lock to the left is at 95, and not 100 (using 900degree mode). Is that normal? For my T300rs on the ps4 it goes full 100.

THanks!

stux
18-06-2015, 04:26
Sorry kind of off topic but my bro just got TX for his xbox one. When he plugs it into the xbox one at the dashboard, is the wheel supposed to calibrate in that it automatically turns full lock left, then right, then back to middle? Also when he calibrates it in game, it seems like the maximum full lock to the left is at 95, and not 100 (using 900degree mode). Is that normal? For my T300rs on the ps4 it goes full 100.

THanks!

Yes. The wheel will calibrate itself every time its turned on. When you calibrate in game you are calibrating the game to the wheel.

Also, when on the dashboard, after your wheel has finished calibrating you should calibrate your pedals by depressing each one to full extent.

Then you can calibrate the pedals in game as well. You do not need to recalibrate the wheel and peddles in game each time, but you should calibrate/excercise the pedals before launching the game everytime you powerup the wheel.

When powering up the wheel I find it best to connect power, then connect USB, after the Xbox has turned on.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
18-06-2015, 04:28
Mine says 95 or 96 usually. According to thrustmaster when calibrating your suppose to go full lock left and right not just one way. This was ok their Facebook page. After that follows the turn to 90 degrees and press save.

m3lover1
18-06-2015, 04:30
Yes. The wheel will calibrate itself every time its turned on. When you calibrate in game you are calibrating the game to the wheel.

Also, when on the dashboard, after your wheel has finished calibrating you should calibrate your pedals by depressing each one to full extent.

Then you can calibrate the pedals in game as well. You do not need to recalibrate the wheel and peddles in game each time, but you should calibrate/excercise the pedals before launching the game everytime you powerup the wheel.

Thank you. THat's strange then, his doesn't do the calibration thing when plugged into xbox. How far does your wheel turn when you calibrate in game? His only goes up to 95, and the wheel at full lock left is not at a full 90 degrees. So the prancing horse at full lock left is not pointing at 9 o'clock, but more like 10-11 o'clock. Hope I'm clear enough but is that the same as you?

stux
18-06-2015, 04:36
Mine says 95 or 96 usually. According to thrustmaster when calibrating your suppose to go full lock left and right not just one way. This was ok their Facebook page. After that follows the turn to 90 degrees and press save.

Maybe when you push the xbox button on the wheel?

At the end of rotation there is a FFB stop, you can rotate further into that, but then there is a physical stop, don't force past that ;)

My wheel rotates to 96 ccw, but I can then further rotate against the FFB to 98. Clockwise I can rotate to 100 degrees (and a bit more).

Never sure what to do with the 90 degree part then, as it provides different numbers depending on which directions I rotate.

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 04:53
I noticed that behavior too. On mine it only does that when the wheel is set to DOR=900. The other DOR settings will take it up to 100. Speaking of which, I've been using relatively low steering sensitivity and either 270 or 360 degrees on the wheel. I'm going to try experimenting with sensitivity on 100 and a higher DOR setting on the wheel, either 540 or 900.

Rob Wilkinson
18-06-2015, 05:21
[wrong section]

AtomicSphincter
18-06-2015, 05:25
Mine says 95 or 96 usually. According to thrustmaster when calibrating your suppose to go full lock left and right not just one way. This was ok their Facebook page. After that follows the turn to 90 degrees and press save.

I've never done that, going full left and right, always did one or the other. I always use my wheel set to 540 degrees, (three green blinks), sometimes have to check the car settings cause it'll have 15.4:1 steering which is too sloppy for my taste, so I bring it down to 12.4:1

AtomicSphincter
18-06-2015, 05:27
You must be on PC, posted in the wrong section, this is Xbox One part of the forum.

CLOWN KAOSZ
18-06-2015, 06:25
If you're referring to the centring spring inducing a small wobble continuously after calibration. Mine does this too. I just grab the wheel and it stops, then I can let go again. Same prob?

This indeed is the problem I'm having since the patch. If it doesn't harm the TX I don't have any problems with grabbing the wheel when it doesn't center itself.
But I do believe they have to fix this issue in a new patch :).

For the record, besides the automatic calibration issue the wheel works great with the new FFB!

stux
18-06-2015, 06:31
I noticed that behavior too. On mine it only does that when the wheel is set to DOR=900. The other DOR settings will take it up to 100. Speaking of which, I've been using relatively low steering sensitivity and either 270 or 360 degrees on the wheel. I'm going to try experimenting with sensitivity on 100 and a higher DOR setting on the wheel, either 540 or 900.

When I was using high sensitivity I found 95 better than 100. Seemed to reduce wobbles on straights

LMR ShOwTiMe875
18-06-2015, 06:49
I noticed that behavior too. On mine it only does that when the wheel is set to DOR=900. The other DOR settings will take it up to 100. Speaking of which, I've been using relatively low steering sensitivity and either 270 or 360 degrees on the wheel. I'm going to try experimenting with sensitivity on 100 and a higher DOR setting on the wheel, either 540 or 900.

Yup I use 540 for get cars and road cars and 270 for open wheel and prototypes all depends how I'm feeling lol

nissan4ever
18-06-2015, 06:55
Sorry kind of off topic but my bro just got TX for his xbox one. When he plugs it into the xbox one at the dashboard, is the wheel supposed to calibrate in that it automatically turns full lock left, then right, then back to middle? Also when he calibrates it in game, it seems like the maximum full lock to the left is at 95, and not 100 (using 900degree mode). Is that normal? For my T300rs on the ps4 it goes full 100.

THanks!

He needs to crank the wheel a little farther to get 100 instead on 95. Doing that won't hurt nothing. Make sure the screen says 900 when he has to do the 90° part. In regards to having wheel on 900 DOR

Jack Spade
18-06-2015, 07:05
I recommend just to use Tire Force to compensate the post patch situation. Set FFB level always at 100 cause lower values only reduce the FFB dynamic, even set at zero the
software calculated FFB signal doesnīt change, see the FFB monitor. Also, thereīs no need to fiddle with the individual car setup menu as these settings are NOT affected
by the patch.

LextersQuest
18-06-2015, 07:07
After having problems with wheel (center of wheel kept jerking left right) i was able to fix it.

So afterwards i went back to game reset wheel did calibration and yes no more jerking around.

OMG on the track feels so much better now, ok turned my forcefeedback down to 90, but felt awesome.
No more strange feel like i had just after installing patch.
Thanks for this improvement in the game!

CLOWN KAOSZ
18-06-2015, 07:08
After having problems with wheel (center of wheel kept jerking left right) i was able to fix it.

So afterwards i went back to game reset wheel did calibration and yes no more jerking around.

OMG on the track feels so much better now, ok turned my forcefeedback down to 90, but felt awesome.
No more strange feel like i had just after installing patch.
Thanks for this improvement in the game!

Can you tell me what you did fixing this problem? :)

Sankyo
18-06-2015, 07:23
I noticed that behavior too. On mine it only does that when the wheel is set to DOR=900. The other DOR settings will take it up to 100. Speaking of which, I've been using relatively low steering sensitivity and either 270 or 360 degrees on the wheel. I'm going to try experimenting with sensitivity on 100 and a higher DOR setting on the wheel, either 540 or 900.


Yup I use 540 for get cars and road cars and 270 for open wheel and prototypes all depends how I'm feeling lol
It is recommended to use 900 degrees (or Automatic on Fanatec wheels) in pCARS. The game will define the steering lock for every car automatically, based on real-life values. Setting your wheel sensitivity/angle lower than 900 degrees may give unwanted side-effects, also in FFB.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
18-06-2015, 07:27
It is recommended to use 900 degrees (or Automatic on Fanatec wheels) in pCARS. The game will define the steering lock for every car automatically, based on real-life values. Setting your wheel sensitivity/angle lower than 900 degrees may give unwanted side-effects, also in FFB.

The thing is is before this patch it wasn't setting per car how it should. Like the formula a car would have 900 degrees and that's not realistic. I will see if it has made a difference in currently online driving the Audi gt3. Btw I have a thrustmaster tx.

Sankyo
18-06-2015, 07:30
A bit of context is in order here, I think. First of all, Doug is a real-life racer and has built his own race cars. Among other things, he tweaks AI waypoints, tyres and car physics data. He's not a software engineer, so he doesn't design and implement the MADNESS engine code though (he's got staff for that...) ;)

On weaker wheels (like my G27), I'd leave the FFB at 100% and tune the TF accordingly to get the most out of the rather limited dynamic range of the more consumer-oriented wheels.

On very strong wheels (like Doug's CSW v2) it can be necessary to turn down the FFB to avoid injuries (!). But the CSW v2 is a bit of a beast, so that advice applies only to that and similarly powerful FFB wheels.
To add confusion (hopefully not though) ;): what you want to achieve is that a) your FFB is not clipping but using the full dynamic FFB range, and b) the FFB strength suits your preference. To achieve a), you'll have to adjust the tyre force (global setting for all cars) and/or the car-specific FFB parameters. Once you have the FFB covering the full range without clipping (can be verified using in-game the FFB meter), then you can do b) by adjusting the global FFB strength setting that changes how much of the wheel's total FFB strength is going to be used.

Of course you can also achieve b) to a good level by adjusting tyre force and the car-specific FFB parameters, but then you're changing the character of the FFB too since certain effects (e.g. crashes) are not affected by those settings, only by the global FFB strength setting.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
18-06-2015, 07:53
So just did a new race in the Audi online and it was set at 540 degrees. Is that standard for that car?

Brent G
18-06-2015, 08:19
Maybe when you push the xbox button on the wheel?

At the end of rotation there is a FFB stop, you can rotate further into that, but then there is a physical stop, don't force past that ;)

My wheel rotates to 96 ccw, but I can then further rotate against the FFB to 98. Clockwise I can rotate to 100 degrees (and a bit more).

Never sure what to do with the 90 degree part then, as it provides different numbers depending on which directions I rotate.
If your getting more rotation one way than the other you may need to re calibrate your wheels centre value. You can find instruction on how to do so at thrustmaster support.

Brent G
18-06-2015, 08:21
Can any of you FFB geniuses tell me how to lessen the stiffness of steering when braking. I'll love ya long time ;)

stux
18-06-2015, 08:37
If your getting more rotation one way than the other you may need to re calibrate your wheels centre value. You can find instruction on how to do so at thrustmaster support.

The problem with that, is at the moment the wheel is calibrated so that it is centred... but its as if Centre is a few degrees off the middle of the rotation range.

make sense?

When the wheel was new, it's default centre meant the wheel was not centred

Brent G
18-06-2015, 08:44
The problem with that, is at the moment the wheel is calibrated so that it is centred... but its as if Centre is a few degrees off the middle of the rotation range.

make sense?

When the wheel was new, it's default centre meant the wheel was not centred

Yeah makes total sense mate as when I hooked up to the thrustmaster driver control panel, when centred my wheel is .5% of centre to the right.

Ixoye56
18-06-2015, 08:45
Can any of you FFB geniuses tell me how to lessen the stiffness of steering when braking. I'll love ya long time ;)

When you brake weight transfer to the front, thats why it feels heavier.

Brent G
18-06-2015, 08:49
When you brake weight transfer to the front, thats why it feels heavier.

Yeah I know mate but it's to pronounced for my liking so I would like to dial it down a touch if it's at all possible. I spend more time driving a vehicle than anything else in life and I've never had to apply so much force to a steering wheel under those conditions.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
18-06-2015, 09:05
Yeah I know mate but it's to pronounced for my liking so I would like to dial it down a touch if it's at all possible. I spend more time driving a vehicle than anything else in life and I've never had to apply so much force to a steering wheel under those conditions.

Try lowering the fy scale a few notches, can't hurt to try.

Brent G
18-06-2015, 09:08
Try lowering the fy scale a few notches, can't hurt to try.

Fy? Yeah I'll give it a try when I get home cheers mate.

Sankyo
18-06-2015, 09:10
Fy? Yeah I'll give it a try when I get home cheers mate.

When braking in a straight line then Fx would be responsible for the stiffening.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
18-06-2015, 09:15
When braking in a straight line then Fx would be responsible for the stiffening.

So I did what you said by just leavings the wheel to set itself for the last 4 races in the Audi R8 gt3. It did feel quite a bit smoother an I won 3 out of the 4!

LextersQuest
18-06-2015, 09:29
Can you tell me what you did fixing this problem? :)

This problem happened to me after patch i went to calibrating wheel and after i had to put wheel to 90degrees it started jerking around without stopping.

I connected my wheel to my pc reset what i could checked for firmware. After i reconnected my wheel to xbox and went to controls - first i pressed Y to reset and after i went to calibrate it. I didnt jerk around any more.
Mayby the pc stuff isnt needed but i just wanted to be sure i tried all.

Brent G
18-06-2015, 09:36
When braking in a straight line then Fx would be responsible for the stiffening.

It's braking while turning that feels unnatural, too much force is required. I would like to just be able to reduce the effect a touch. Don't want it gone all together as that detracts from the realism. It's probs just a case of re adjusting to the FFB post patch.

Foolsjester
18-06-2015, 09:38
Ok after many hours last night i managed to get the tx wheel working with good FFB on xb1 with patch 1.4.

After installing patch, hard reset your console (hold xbox button on console for 10 seconds)
make sure you have the latest firmware installed on the tx wheel via pc
start pCars, reset all wheel settings with Y
calibrate the wheel, full 900 degrees
leave FFB setting at default but turn down Tire Force to 75. leave FFB at 100 as this is for the dynamic range of the overall FFB to the wheel.
use Jack Spades car FFB settings http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...S4-Spreadsheet I am using the classic settings.

the FFB is different and you have to get used to it, i.e. you now get a lot more FFB when turning into corners when breaking. which is a lot more realistic

i just wish more instructions were supplied by SMS on how to setup everything and more information on the settings on the GUI to explain in layman's terms what affects changing individual settings would do

from what i see, almost EVERYONE is recommending Jack Spades car FFB settings, why cant SMS implement these into the game with allowing quick change between the 4 different settings in the spreadsheet (Fy+SopLateral - Classic - 66% - Bumps Plus. but named better) as well as allowing individual settings to be changed as it is now for even more tweaking if that's what the player wants to do.

i will admit the FFB is better now, so much more realistic but it does take time to get used to but SMS, please improve the GUI to allow easier configuration of default setting groups as a whole evening spent in just setting up a wheel is a little over the top IMO. Thumbs up to SMS but could do better with GUI and settings management

Lagoa
18-06-2015, 11:16
I think it's fine at default now. Just one question, if I wanted a little less FFB, what do I change? Overall FFB? Or tyre force?

Ixoye56
18-06-2015, 11:32
I think it's fine at default now. Just one question, if I wanted a little less FFB, what do I change? Overall FFB? Or tyre force?

It's a matter of taste I think.

mkstatto
18-06-2015, 12:32
I had a quick session in qualy with it yesterday with my TX after recalibrating, the FFB felt good. The only issue I noticed in the Jaguar Palmer car when I was on full rotation it would bounce off a stopping feeling like it was on a bungie rope.Is this normal?

Lagoa
18-06-2015, 12:42
I had a quick session in qualy with it yesterday with my TX after recalibrating, the FFB felt good. The only issue I noticed in the Jaguar Palmer car when I was on full rotation it would bounce off a stopping feeling like it was on a bungie rope.Is this normal?

have exactly the same!

RomKnight
18-06-2015, 13:07
@Doug49

CSWv2 here as well. FFB:100 TF:50 (because of said strength and my left wrist not agreeing with me on longer periods of pCARS :D)

logically speaking, FFB should always be at 100 (no matter the wheel) in my head. Reason is, you want all of it and then adjust/balance just the parts of it accordingly to one's perception or whatever.

Why should we switch these two specifically as you have on your side?

Sankyo
18-06-2015, 13:12
I think it's fine at default now. Just one question, if I wanted a little less FFB, what do I change? Overall FFB? Or tyre force?
If you reduce tyre force, you reduce only the contribution of the tyres to the total FFB. Since it's the main contributor, you'll get less strong FFB overall while still using the full dynamic range of the wheel's FFB motor. So tyre-related forces get less, but others (e.g. crash effects) remain as strong, meaning that the balance between the different forces is changed.

If you reduce overall FFB, the game will use less of the wheel's FFB dynamic range, and hence all effects get less strong while maintaining the same balance between the different forces.

Foolsjester
18-06-2015, 13:25
I think it's fine at default now. Just one question, if I wanted a little less FFB, what do I change? Overall FFB? Or tyre force?

leave the general FFB at 100%. this is the dynamic range of the overall FFB sent to the wheel. the Tire Force will lower the strength of the FFB on turning

wearymick
18-06-2015, 13:37
Out of the box, the 1.4 FFB is maladjusted and a step backward imo. The (braking and lateral) load effects are over-pronounced and the wheel pretty much locks up at low speed corners. The general strength is OTT on the Tx at least. I also occasionally get a strange twitching/pulse effect which requires a race exit to cure. You really shouldn't have to mess around with every slider down to the individual cars just to get a usable effect set. The generic defaults should be driveable, no?

PzR Slim
18-06-2015, 13:39
Out of the box, the 1.4 FFB is maladjusted and a step backward imo. The (braking and lateral) load effects are over-pronounced and the wheel pretty much locks up at low speed corners. The general strength is OTT on the Tx at least. I also occasionally get a strange twitching/pulse effect which requires a race exit to cure. You really shouldn't have to mess around with every slider down to the individual cars just to get a usable effect set. The generic defaults should be driveable, no?

Did you reset everything relating to the wheel back to default including individual setting per car in the car set up menus?

Ian Bell
18-06-2015, 13:41
Out of the box, the 1.4 FFB is maladjusted and a step backward imo. The (braking and lateral) load effects are over-pronounced and the wheel pretty much locks up at low speed corners. The general strength is OTT on the Tx at least. I also occasionally get a strange twitching/pulse effect which requires a race exit to cure. You really shouldn't have to mess around with every slider down to the individual cars just to get a usable effect set. The generic defaults should be driveable, no?

Most are liking the new defaults, with maybe a strength reduction.

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 13:41
To add confusion (hopefully not though) ;): what you want to achieve is that a) your FFB is not clipping but using the full dynamic FFB range, and b) the FFB strength suits your preference. To achieve a), you'll have to adjust the tyre force (global setting for all cars) and/or the car-specific FFB parameters. Once you have the FFB covering the full range without clipping (can be verified using in-game the FFB meter), then you can do b) by adjusting the global FFB strength setting that changes how much of the wheel's total FFB strength is going to be used.

Of course you can also achieve b) to a good level by adjusting tyre force and the car-specific FFB parameters, but then you're changing the character of the FFB too since certain effects (e.g. crashes) are not affected by those settings, only by the global FFB strength setting.
I agree with all that but crashes felt a little too rough so I thought I'd reduce the FFB force just a tad. I think I set it at 90.

P1ckN1cker2406
18-06-2015, 13:44
Most are liking the new defaults, with maybe a strength reduction.

Yep, after adjusting the Tire Force to my liking the FFB is absolute brilliant now. Big step forward.

ermo
18-06-2015, 14:28
I had a pretty good handle on the previous FFB settings. And I had to qualify tonight for a race on Sunday losing a whole second due to the different feel in my wheel. My car before felt like it had good power-steering, and now it has a bad powersteering pump or the belt fell off. It definitely doesn't feel like Rack n Pinion.

This sounds interesting. Which effects do you feel are not counteracted sufficiently in the FFB? Does the wheel weight up too much under braking or...?

Sankyo
18-06-2015, 14:42
I agree with all that but crashes felt a little too rough so I thought I'd reduce the FFB force just a tad. I think I set it at 90.
That would exactly be the right adjustment then :)

remyd84
18-06-2015, 14:52
where can i find jack spades settings? cheers

Raven403
18-06-2015, 15:02
where can i find jack spades settings? cheers

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 15:08
where can i find jack spades settings? cheers
Or here: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24582-Universal-FFB-Settings-for-XB1-PS4-Spreadsheet

Brent G
18-06-2015, 15:26
Can anyone give a definitive answer on a way to lessen the heavy steering under braking? Iv'e been told a few different things so now I'm confused and I really dont want yet another night spent in the settings when I should be racing. Cheers everyone.

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 15:29
Brent did you try playing with Fy and/or Mz as I suggested? Or maybe just turn everything down a notch.

Brent G
18-06-2015, 15:33
Brent did you try playing with Fy and/or Mz as I suggested? Or maybe just turn everything down a notch.

Tried MZ Schnizz ,it made no descernible difference. Forgot you said to try Fy so ill have a crack now. Ta mate.

Neil Bateman
18-06-2015, 15:39
Just out of curiosity, with jacks tweaker file options which ones are most of you using and did you try all of them before deciding on your final choice, i am using the 66% files which seem quite good but is it worth trying all of them, dont get much time for all the testing and tend to go with what most say gives them the best feeling.

Jack Spade
18-06-2015, 15:41
Can anyone give a definitive answer on a way to lessen the heavy steering under braking? Iv'e been told a few different things so now I'm confused and I really dont want yet another night spent in the settings when I should be racing. Cheers everyone.

Itīs the effect of car/tire physics, weight transfer, there is no special parameter for weight transfer, lower Tire Force slightly as compromise.

Jack Spade
18-06-2015, 15:43
Just out of curiosity, with jacks tweaker file options which ones are most of you using and did you try all of them before deciding on your final choice, i am using the 66% files which seem quite good but is it worth trying all of them, dont get much time for all the testing and tend to go with what most say gives them the best feeling.

Try it with one car only first, GT car on Outlon Park is a good starting point.

....this one Ruf RGT8 GT3

Brent G
18-06-2015, 15:49
Fy did seem to lessen it Schnizz. However I'm that fed up of messing around with settings Im gonna put everything to default and just deal with it. All the faffing around is making me start to dislike the game. Wish I could just erase the v1.4 update because Monday I loved the feel. Hopefully things will improve in time but untill then going to work at 5am to then come home and have to fiddle with settings for hours on end is not happening anymore Im too knackered for that, I just want to race and enjoy myself as apposed to getting frustrated to death.

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 15:52
Tried MZ Schnizz ,it made no descernible difference. Forgot you said to try Fy so ill have a crack now. Ta mate.
Sorry, I meant Fx, not Fy. As you apply the brakes, the car will pitch forward and put more weight on the nose (I'm sure you're already aware of this) then as you turn the wheel you'll get more resistance from the FFB. If you lower Fx I think it will reduce that effect.

The other thing you could try is stiffen the front springs or the front slow bump dampers but the downside is that'll make it understeer.

FWIW I experienced this myself last night trying out the new 1.4 FFB. Not sure if you saw my post on it or not. It was particularly bad on FWD cars, which you'd expect. It's a realistic effect so I wouldn't try to get rid of it altogether but it might be a touch too strong.

Brent G
18-06-2015, 15:55
Itīs the effect of car/tire physics, weight transfer, there is no special parameter for weight transfer, lower Tire Force slightly as compromise.

Yeah thanks Jack. I absolutely loved the feel with your settings pre patch but v 1.4 has ruined them for me so Ive pretty much given up for now as theres not enough hours in the day for the messing around required to try and get 50% of the feel I had from your 'Classic' numbers before. Truly, Im gutted I really am.

Jack Spade
18-06-2015, 15:59
Yeah thanks Jack. I absolutely loved the feel with your settings pre patch but v 1.4 has ruined them for me so Ive pretty much given up for now as theres not enough hours in the day for the messing around required to try and get 50% of the feel I had from your 'Classic' numbers before. Truly, Im gutted I really am.

The settings work as ever before just lower TF even if you end up at a low value.

Brent G
18-06-2015, 16:24
The settings work as ever before just lower TF even if you end up at a low value.

What do you recommend for globals Jack, or should I follow the instructions atop the spreadsheet containing your settings?

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 16:34
What do you recommend for globals Jack, or should I follow the instructions atop the spreadsheet containing your settings?
Brent I tried the compression settings that include Relative Adjust and Soft Clipping parameters and didn't like the feel at all even at the moderate levels of compression. I had the "notchy" feel that some people have reported. By that I mean that it takes a good bit of force to move the wheel off center but once it moves, the resistance decreases. So it feels like there's a notch right in the center of the wheel movement. The wheel wants to be in the center and takes some effort to get it out of that position. I wouldn't recommend those settings for the TX wheel, only for other wheels with less overall force.

Jack Spade
18-06-2015, 16:50
What do you recommend for globals Jack, or should I follow the instructions atop the spreadsheet containing your settings?

The global settings depend very much on type of wheel and personal taste. For my V2 I only use the Relative Gain settings in OP.
To find out whatīs suitable start with moderate compression as these smooth out just very little, but first set TF at an appropriate level before you activate any comp settings.

Brent G
18-06-2015, 17:02
Jack, Schnizz, Ive used the settings on the spreadsheet with the 66% numbers on the Ruf GT3. That coupled with a fairly low tyre force (thanks Beetes) and things are looking Rosey again. Gonna try the Classics now as that was my preference pre v.1.4. Cant say thanks enough I'd be properly FĩĐ]<ĢD were it not for everyones help. Quite a dogs ball bag forum we've got growing here! ;)

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 17:06
Jack, Schnizz, Ive used the settings on the spreadsheet with the 66% numbers on the Ruf GT3. That coupled with a fairly low tyre force (thanks Beetes) and things are looking Rosey again. Gonna try the Classics now as that was my preference pre v.1.4. Cant say thanks enough I'd be properly FĩĐ]<ĢD were it not for everyones help. Quite a dogs ball bag forum we've got growing here! ;)
Awesome! Glad to hear you're down off the ledge. :) This will help me too as I was afraid to lower TF too much. Now I'll knock it down until it feels right to me.

Brent G
18-06-2015, 17:25
Awesome! Glad to hear you're down off the ledge. :) This will help me too as I was afraid to lower TF too much. Now I'll knock it down until it feels right to me.

Mate its like a weight lifted off my shoulders, the 66% numbers are bang on. I had visions of my TX and Playseat becoming something else for my girl to drape her ever expanding clothing collection over. Jeez what a relief, she'd never have dropped the "summin else you've bought and never used" line every time she stubbed her toe on it.

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 17:43
I like the 66% numbers too because it gives you a better feel for the rear end. The classics are a good starting point but adding the SoP stuff gives it just a little something extra. When I get this stuff dialed in I might play around with the Body/Gut parameters to see what they do.

Frog T
18-06-2015, 17:55
I took the BMW turbo out last night in my first campaign effort since 1.3 and it felt bang on. Much better feel and lots of smiles per miles.
Took the Formula A car around azure circuit with a stock tune and it was a right dogs dinner to be fair. Centre spring was very strong threw me around a bit and my time was poop. I will try again when im more awake.

Olijke Poffer
18-06-2015, 18:25
So iT feels definitely better than the classic settings?

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 18:29
So iT feels definitely better than the classic settings?
To me it does but FFB is very personal and what I like may not suit you. I'm of the opinion that the more information I can get about what the car is doing, the better I'll be able to make adjustments before they become catastrophic.

Olijke Poffer
18-06-2015, 18:33
Well that is correct but for now I have the feeling I get to much info on FFB and pcars. Lol

Benja190782
18-06-2015, 19:33
So is the default FFB settings on the Xbox One version now as good as on the PC version - are they on pair now?

inthebagbud
18-06-2015, 19:38
I am hoping people could me some advice about the ffb since 1.4 . I like a few others had a bad time yesterday with the new settings. Before the update I was using jacks classis settings and found the few cars I have driven fine. I have the read the posts about lowering the tire force today which I have tried and although it feels better I am way of feel wise that I was before. I have seen people talk about clipping and wonder what this is as the turn of my wheel now feels very jacked it's as if at about five past the centre it hits a stop and then slips past and does this at various times in the turn. I realise that this may be my car setup but I am trying to understand what is happening.

I am new to this type of game and have been driving the mcclaren 12 gt3 in free practice on Silverstone international to get used to the different setup options at around 1.55 constantly before the changes.

As ffb is new to me I am not sure what I am feeling is how it's supposed to be or not and appreciate it is a subjective question but the wheel just doesn't feel right now. All equipment is new in past few weeks

Thanks for any pointers that may come, as I am looking to spend Saturday having a good test as a beer is in order now not driving !

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 19:46
First a little information. What wheel are you using? Did you reset the defaults for the wheel? Did you re-calibrate it?

inthebagbud
18-06-2015, 20:08
@superkart

I am using the Tx Italia - full setup in signature. I have reset all settings to default by the y button and recalibrate a couple of times. Then tried again with jacks settings as well as default. I did take a completely different car & track as well. From this I could see the ffb in a brand new environment but still had the wheel issues

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 20:18
I had the same problem. The defaults are way too strong for the TX. Try dropping the Tire Force down to 50 or less. Play around with that setting to see if you can get it to feel the way you want it.

BTW, I'm not superkart, I'm Schnizz. :)

inthebagbud
18-06-2015, 20:24
Schnizz yes sorry about that typing on phone and can't see all screen! I did knock it down to 75 and it felt light. Did you change any of the other global settings ?

Schnizz58
18-06-2015, 20:29
No worries!

I did but I didn't like what I ended up with so I'm going to reset back to default and only adjust tire force. Keep in mind that I haven't got this completely sussed out yet either. I'm still experimenting. But I've been chatting with some of the other guys here privately and it seems like tire force is the main culprit, if you can call it that. So I'm going to get that sorted first and then see if twiddling some of the other values like soft clipping has a positive effect.

inthebagbud
18-06-2015, 20:51
Thanks for taking the time to reply looks like Saturdays job is sorted. I was just worried I had a faulty wheel. I have had a pm from another user with some suggestions . All food for thought and trying to keep posotive.

ThierryRS4
18-06-2015, 21:19
Even with all settings down to zero my TX wheel remain stiff as a steel bar!!! No more excuses, fix the ffb asap please !

Del Zotto x82x
18-06-2015, 23:59
I use the TX... The very first thing you should do is "HARD RESET" your XBOX.. Load PCARS... Then hit "Y" in settings to reset everything.. Then calibrate wheel and pedals.. Then set steering deadzone to "0". Then set ffb and tyre force at 100.. Then use Jack Spades global settings.. Then use Jack Spades individual car settings in the spreadsheet "classic".. After all that, for every car, I set the MASTER and SOP to "16" each.. PERFECT!

OverHaased
19-06-2015, 00:07
Even with all settings down to zero my TX wheel remain stiff as a steel bar!!! No more excuses, fix the ffb asap please !


It is fixed, follow the great advise here and you will be very happy

FACT0RY PIL0T
19-06-2015, 03:53
It is fixed, follow the great advise here and you will be very happy
No its not fixed just a semi bandaid.

* If i stop the car turn the wheel to the left all the way or part way, and let go of the wheel it snaps back past center to 45 deg to the right.* I can feel it while driving laps fighting to be center or the new center now at 45deg right. If i turn it all the way right it just stays where ever I put it like it should.

Maybe I should have just stayed on playing the Beta B☆☆☆ing all the time as the Ass-☆☆☆☆, and somethings wouldnt have made it to the final version, but whatever the underlying issue is it's worse now im only fighting it one direction, intead of 2 which at least it evened it out a little bit.

Is it because the whole centering for the menus is in the ffb too?* If so just get rid of it!!

LMR ShOwTiMe875
19-06-2015, 04:01
I use the TX... The very first thing you should do is "HARD RESET" your XBOX.. Load PCARS... Then hit "Y" in settings to reset everything.. Then calibrate wheel and pedals.. Then set steering deadzone to "0". Then set ffb and tyre force at 100.. Then use Jack Spades global settings.. Then use Jack Spades individual car settings in the spreadsheet "classic".. After all that, for every car, I set the MASTER and SOP to "16" each.. PERFECT!

This was what I suggested to people. A few listened and they were happy. I've even sheaves time off my best laps. So it can't be broken you just gotta follow the steps And put in a lil bit of time to find a setting for your style.

TenthDan
19-06-2015, 04:27
No its not fixed just a semi bandaid.

* If i stop the car turn the wheel to the left all the way or part way, and let go of the wheel it snaps back past center to 45 deg to the right.* I can feel it while driving laps fighting to be center or the new center now at 45deg right. If i turn it all the way right it just stays where ever I put it like it should.

Maybe I should have just stayed on playing the Beta B☆☆☆ing all the time as the Ass-☆☆☆☆, and somethings wouldnt have made it to the final version, but whatever the underlying issue is it's worse now im only fighting it one direction, intead of 2 which at least it evened it out a little bit.

Is it because the whole centering for the menus is in the ffb too?* If so just get rid of it!!

Did you follow the advice here? And leave out the swearing.

FACT0RY PIL0T
19-06-2015, 04:31
Did you follow the advice here? And leave out the swearing.

Yupppppp, and did it twice, reset, unplugged, threw it out the window a few times, tried everything etc etc. And bytheway 16 master is literally almost no feedback!
At this point id rather have just smoth resistance to the wheel with NO center!

LMR ShOwTiMe875
19-06-2015, 04:43
I'm running master between 22 and 38 depending on vehicle

stux
19-06-2015, 04:58
Has anyone else played with the scoop reduction settings in with 1.4?

Previously, I found they seemed to be buggy, but in theory Scoop Knee/Reduction is used to compensate for non-linearity in the wheels (primarily the logitech wheels). Linearity graphs I've seen for the thrustmaster wheels show fairly linear response, so in theory, you shouldn't need the scoop reduction.

Its early days, but I've tried setting Scoop Knee to 0, and it does seem to be more linear to me.

Try it yourself?

beetes_juice
19-06-2015, 05:00
Factory, What about all of jack spades global settings the same but maybe put tire force at 30-50 and do soft clipping half output 1.50 and soft clipping full output 0.50. Use whatever car FFB from the spreadsheet exactly how it is, I like classic. That's from a few posts in the spreadsheet thread. Could be completely wrong but it seems to be a good starting point to improve on.

TenthDan
19-06-2015, 05:10
Has anyone else played with the scoop reduction settings in with 1.4?

Previously, I found they seemed to be buggy, but in theory Scoop Knee/Reduction is used to compensate for non-linearity in the wheels (primarily the logitech wheels). Linearity graphs I've seen for the thrustmaster wheels show fairly linear response, so in theory, you shouldn't need the scoop reduction.

Its early days, but I've tried setting Scoop Knee to 0, and it does seem to be more linear to me.

Try it yourself?

Yes that sounds correct.

Jack Spade
19-06-2015, 06:22
Factory, What about all of jack spades global settings the same but maybe put tire force at 30-50 and do soft clipping half output 1.50 and soft clipping full output 0.50. Use whatever car FFB from the spreadsheet exactly how it is, I like classic. That's from a few posts in the spreadsheet thread. Could be completely wrong but it seems to be a good starting point to improve on.

Full Output - Clipping already occurs at 1.0, I recommend to set this parameter always above 1.0.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
19-06-2015, 06:45
Full Output - Clipping already occurs at 1.0, I recommend to set this parameter always above 1.0.

So if we set full output above 1.0 say 1.5 what should the half input be set at?

Jack Spade
19-06-2015, 06:58
So if we set full output above 1.0 say 1.5 what should the half input be set at?

Follow the link in my signature for some suggestions of FFB compression settings.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
19-06-2015, 07:07
Follow the link in my signature for some suggestions of FFB compression settings.

Just reading thru it, very helpful. Thank you!

LMR ShOwTiMe875
19-06-2015, 08:02
One more thing I read you can tell if your wheel is suffering from clipping while driving while having the telemetry display on. What is it I'm looking for?

stux
19-06-2015, 08:05
One more thing I read you can tell if your wheel is suffering from clipping while driving while having the telemetry display on. What is it I'm looking for?

The FFB graph running flat against the top or bottom (actually the middle)

(be nice if the FFB line changed to red when it was at max/min or clipping)

Gamer1963
19-06-2015, 08:08
OMG, this ffb is just insane. I set tireforce down to 50 since the wheel did not move an inch on 100 and tried the superkart on Oulton, cut the curb a little to much in the first corner on full speed and the wheel actually got ripped out of my hands and I'm not a little kid ;) I laughed so hard that I almost fell out of my Playseat :D Well done SMS :)

Ixoye56
19-06-2015, 08:22
It's braking while turning that feels unnatural, too much force is required. I would like to just be able to reduce the effect a touch. Don't want it gone all together as that detracts from the realism. It's probs just a case of re adjusting to the FFB post patch.

I notis this bug also when I drive some vintage open wheelers last night, something isn't right that's for sure, but not all cars are affected.

James Boulton
19-06-2015, 08:25
* If i stop the car turn the wheel to the left all the way or part way, and let go of the wheel it snaps back past center to 45 deg to the right.* I can feel it while driving laps fighting to be center or the new center now at 45deg right. If i turn it all the way right it just stays where ever I put it like it should.

This sounds like a known firmware bug in more than one wheel (although not sure why turning to the right would give different results to the left). If you are getting issues, please ensure you have the latest firmware from your wheel vendor, which will have been released to coincide with the 1.4 update.

If you are having issues with strong FFB in the menus, please ensure you have reset your wheel setting with Y in the controls setup screen.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
19-06-2015, 08:38
So I have set full clipping to 2.0 and half to 1.0 and now I can turn up the master scale and get more feel. This is with tire force and ffb set at 100. It feels quite good. This is with jack spades 66% setup and master scale and sop at 40 :)

Jack Spade
19-06-2015, 08:49
So I have set full clipping to 2.0 and half to 1.0 and now I can turn up the master scale and get more feel. This is with tire force and ffb set at 100. It feels quite good. This is with jack spades 66% setup and master scale and sop at 40 :)

Actually you donīt need to fiddle with the files or setup menu (master scale/ sop scale) Tire Force has the same effect.

kimiraikkonen07
19-06-2015, 09:43
Holy cow. Had my first go last night on the new patch.

FFB is Strong!;)

FACT0RY PIL0T
19-06-2015, 11:38
Factory, What about all of jack spades global settings the same but maybe put tire force at 30-50 and do soft clipping half output 1.50 and soft clipping full output 0.50. Use whatever car FFB from the spreadsheet exactly how it is, I like classic. That's from a few posts in the spreadsheet thread. Could be completely wrong but it seems to be a good starting point to improve on.

Ill triple check everything tonite, but the spreadsheet value s at one setting say 25, and theres no 25 its 24 or 26 skips 25? So ill try one more time but even if your slow rolling its center hit the brakes then it goes 45 right

beetes_juice
19-06-2015, 12:53
Full Output - Clipping already occurs at 1.0, I recommend to set this parameter always above 1.0.

Will give that a go tonight. Have been looking for a little clarification with that setting. Thanks.

Brent G
19-06-2015, 13:48
[QUOTE=James Boulton;1001764] If you are getting issues, please ensure you have the latest firmware from your wheel vendor, which will have been released to coincide with the 1.4 update.



So your saying Thrustmaster will have released a firmware update above v.48.B9 for the TX? Not that Im having issues thanks to a few of my fellow forum members. You da men! you know who you are.

Snowowl
19-06-2015, 13:57
Thrustmaster has released (June 19, 2015) V49.B9 for Xbox One: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=12&fid=83&pid=366&cid=15

Make sure to read the PDF file for the proper update procedure.

beetes_juice
19-06-2015, 14:05
Thrustmaster has released (June 19, 2015) V49.B9 for Xbox One: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=12&fid=83&pid=366&cid=15

Make sure to read the PDF file for the proper update procedure.

May want to go post that in the spreadsheet thread also.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
19-06-2015, 14:14
Thrustmaster has released (June 19, 2015) V49.B9 for Xbox One: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=12&fid=83&pid=366&cid=15

Make sure to read the PDF file for the proper update procedure.

Thanks for the info!!

CLOWN KAOSZ
19-06-2015, 14:22
I recommend just to use Tire Force to compensate the post patch situation. Set FFB level always at 100 cause lower values only reduce the FFB dynamic, even set at zero the
software calculated FFB signal doesnīt change, see the FFB monitor. Also, thereīs no need to fiddle with the individual car setup menu as these settings are NOT affected
by the patch.

Maybe I'm just stupid but in which screen you see the FFB monitor and how do you have to look at it? With this I mean, in what way you can see if the FFB is right or isn't that how you have to look at it?
My FFB is currently on 100 and tire force at 115. I love the way I have to work with the feel :)

nissan4ever
19-06-2015, 14:31
Thrustmaster has released (June 19, 2015) V49.B9 for Xbox One: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=12&fid=83&pid=366&cid=15

Make sure to read the PDF file for the proper update procedure.

Cool, I'll update my wheel when I get home!

Schnizz58
19-06-2015, 14:33
If you bring up the telemetry view the FFB graph will be in the upper left corner of the screen. If you see the graph cutting off at the top or bottom, that's clipping.

ETA: I should also mention that the FFB box is actually two different displays. There's an imaginary line down the middle separating it into two graphs. You should not see anything on the lower one as that is enabled only for debug builds. If you're sitting idle or driving perfectly straight, the there should be a straight line running through the middle of the upper box. As you turn the wheel one way, the line will move either up or down depending on which way you turn the wheel. I think up is left and down is right but I may have that backwards. The more that line moves away from center, the more force is being applied to the wheel. If you drive over a kerb, you'll see the line go up and down pretty quickly to simulate the feel of the rumble strips. The top and bottom of the upper box represent the dynamic range limits of the FFB system. If you ever see that line get near one of the limits and then flatline, you're clipping. So in that case you need to lower tire force or the overall FFB strength.

ETA2: According to Jack Spade, the secondary display is not as I have described, see his post below.

Dynomight Motorsports
19-06-2015, 15:00
This sounds interesting. Which effects do you feel are not counteracted sufficiently in the FFB? Does the wheel weight up too much under braking or...?

Thanks for Asking @Ermo, Well I did some more testing on a Car I had success with. I'm using Jack Spades settings for console, "Classic" I didn't change anything there because the Patch was supposed to effect FFB globally. I had adjusted Soft Clipping based on Rocco's advice and had my tire force set to 100. I've since reduced it to 70 then 60 and now to 50. I used to feel the Rumble strips when I ran over them, a vibration in the wheel. I no longer feel this, and the force on the wheel when braking and turning ie sending weight to the front wheels just makes the wheel very stiff and then heading down the hill after turn for on Oulton Park International the Bumps used to feel right, now it feels sloppy sloshing around oscilating back and forth, like I've got worn out ball joins on my spindles. I think I'm close to getting the feel but it just has to be fine tuned. The biggest thing is being accustomed to a certain feel then having it change will take some getting used to. The small adjustments we made for Xbox using the TX wheel.. I had the feel dialed in and I could run a 1:33.590 at Oulton Park in a BMW Z4. I have stayed at the same track and not made any other changes other than reverting back to default settings on my Soft Clipping.

BTW I like your Signature Ermo.

Seps1974
19-06-2015, 15:14
Thrustmaster has released (June 19, 2015) V49.B9 for Xbox One: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=12&fid=83&pid=366&cid=15

Make sure to read the PDF file for the proper update procedure.

Always providing helpful info :encouragement:

Jack Spade
19-06-2015, 15:49
If you bring up the telemetry view the FFB graph will be in the upper left corner of the screen. If you see the graph cutting off at the top or bottom, that's clipping.

ETA: I should also mention that the FFB box is actually two different displays. There's an imaginary line down the middle separating it into two graphs. You should not see anything on the lower one as that is enabled only for debug builds. If you're sitting idle or driving perfectly straight, the there should be a straight line running through the middle of the upper box. As you turn the wheel one way, the line will move either up or down depending on which way you turn the wheel. I think up is left and down is right but I may have that backwards. The more that line moves away from center, the more force is being applied to the wheel. If you drive over a kerb, you'll see the line go up and down pretty quickly to simulate the feel of the rumble strips. The top and bottom of the upper box represent the dynamic range limits of the FFB system. If you ever see that line get near one of the limits and then flatline, you're clipping. So in that case you need to lower tire force or the overall FFB strength.

Correction
The white line at the bottom shows canned effects which are disabled by default. If something pops up there itīs a bug. During WMD days this line also was active for CSWīs as they were running
FFB on hardware mix this was changed in the retail game.

Schnizz58
19-06-2015, 15:53
Thanks for the correction, Jack.

Brent G
19-06-2015, 16:05
Guys, can you plz give advice on procedure following a firmware update. Is it just a case of plugging back into Xbox then re calibrating in game, or is their other thing you'd recommend. Also my wheel feels fine with v.48.B9 so is it absolutely essential to update? I only ask for fear of everything going tits up for me again.

Snowowl
19-06-2015, 16:10
I would get the latest Thrustmaster firmware for the TX. If you'll read the information, they also address FFB issues with 49.9B, which would be essential to make sure the wheel is set and the game will function as it should. If you don't upgrade the wheel firmware, which is bad - the wheel or game?

THEN you can do the in-game adjustments and be all set.

beetes_juice
19-06-2015, 16:14
Guys, can you plz give advice on procedure following a firmware update. Is it just a case of plugging back into Xbox then re calibrating in game, or is their other thing you'd recommend. Also my wheel feels fine with v.48.B9 so is it absolutely essential to update? I only ask for fear of everything going tits up for me again.

You will probably be one of the first few on the new firmware so I would just go with a normal re-calibrate and use the same settings you had prior. Report back if anything comes up, if its screwy again we will get you back racing.

Brent G
19-06-2015, 16:16
You will probably be one of the first few on the new firmware so I would just go with a normal re-calibrate and use the same settings you had prior. Report back if anything comes up, if its screwy again we will get you back racing.

Cheers Beetes. Deep breath......here goes!

nissan4ever
19-06-2015, 16:25
Cheers Beetes. Deep breath......here goes!

You'll be fine. You always want the latest firmware for the TX. I'm doing mine when I get home from work. I'm looking forward to seeing how they improved the Xbox One FFB protocol. Plus see if it no longer loses ffb on Xbox One (doesn't happen with TX on a PC).

Brent G
19-06-2015, 16:50
Ok so TX firmware v.49.B9 installed and all is good with the world. Works fine with settings as they were for v.48.B9. Steering action seems smoother, feel is nice with Jack Spades 66% FFB settings coupled with a relatively low Tyre Force setting. Yep all is indeed good!

stitchbob
19-06-2015, 16:54
I just updated and had a quick play.

Didn't recalibrate and it played v.nicely. Not sure, but it felt identical to before... if there's a change I couldn't really feel it.

I tried snapping an app which lost ffb as before. Then tried to go back to dashboard and then back to game which would fix it in the previous firmware version.

I couldn't get ffb back unless I quit the game and relaunched.

Feels like a backwards step in this regard.

Will continue play testing and let you know if I find a workaround.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
19-06-2015, 16:56
Ok so TX firmware v.49.B9 installed and all is good with the world. Works fine with settings as they were for v.48.B9. Steering action seems smoother, feel is nice with Jack Spades 66% FFB settings coupled with a relatively low Tyre Force setting. Yep all is indeed good!

Indeed it is in the first 10 laps i bested my time in the Audi R8 gt3 to a 132.8 at oulton and I know there's more to gain!

nissan4ever
19-06-2015, 16:56
I tried snapping an app which lost ffb as before. Then tried to go back to dashboard and then back to game which would fix it in the previous firmware version.

I couldn't get ffb back unless I quit the game and relaunched.

Feels like a backwards step in this regard.

Will continue play testing and let you know if I find a workaround.

Yeah, that's a Microsoft problem. Hopefully they fix it in one of these upcoming dashboard updates.

RoccoTTS
19-06-2015, 17:20
I also upgraded the firmware to v.49.B9 and feel no difference. ffb is great and everything is working properly !

Brent G
19-06-2015, 17:24
Just had a go in Formula C, with the new firmware and patched FFB it is a WORKOUT!!! Wow it fealt awesome ,can totally see why race drivers need to be fit. What a mish-mash of emotions pCars causes, I can go from love to hate and back again in mere hours! Ok it has it flaws but theres no denying its leaps and bounds ahead of any racing title ever to grace a console and I think any developer who takes on the challenge to compete with it is gonna have some serious late nights ahead of them. SMS, I must applaud you.

Brent G
19-06-2015, 17:26
I also upgraded the firmware to v.49.B9 and feel no difference. ffb is great and everything is working properly !

If anything I thought there was a smoother feel to steering input. To be honest Im pretty happy with things now :)

stitchbob
19-06-2015, 17:36
Yeah, that's a Microsoft problem. Hopefully they fix it in one of these upcoming dashboard updates.

I just tested with forza horizon 2 and can snap messages/apps without loss of ffb no problem. So maybe it's a PCars Thrustmaster problem?

Can anyone confirm if the loss of ffb while snapping was present in all other games before this update? Or have we always been able to snap in other games?

IgorTheHunchback
19-06-2015, 18:10
The only game that loses ffb while snapping apps for me is PCars, Forza and Horizon 2 both work perfectly with ffb.

Dynomight Motorsports
19-06-2015, 18:39
I just tested with forza horizon 2 and can snap messages/apps without loss of ffb no problem. So maybe it's a PCars Thrustmaster problem?

Can anyone confirm if the loss of ffb while snapping was present in all other games before this update? Or have we always been able to snap in other games?

Yes this is a confirmed issue with everyone using wheels in my League. We try to record our races with twitch or just jumping into Party mode, after unsnapping the wheel has to be reset/power cycled to get FFB to return.

FACT0RY PIL0T
19-06-2015, 22:38
Factory, What about all of jack spades global settings the same but maybe put tire force at 30-50 and do soft clipping half output 1.50 and soft clipping full output 0.50. Use whatever car FFB from the spreadsheet exactly how it is, I like classic. That's from a few posts in the spreadsheet thread. Could be completely wrong but it seems to be a good starting point to improve on.

Ok reloaded the firmware, hard reset, and tried your clipping settings and it feels better now. But its not linear at all around center, like no feedback in the first 10-15deg then it hits. Im running no deadzone, I hate deadzone.

So im to the point on how do i get just the same amount of force throughout it, get rid of all curbs etc feeling until i get the force to where i want then add in the other stuff?

Its like smooth sweepers high speed its making it to where something is kicking in off and on and throws my line off through the turns. It happend no matter if I turn up or down the master or the tire force basically making it really hard to drive a smooth line that once i turn should require very little input other than slowly releasing the wheel as i drive through the turn.

Del Zotto x82x
19-06-2015, 23:11
Yupppppp, and did it twice, reset, unplugged, threw it out the window a few times, tried everything etc etc. And bytheway 16 master is literally almost no feedback!
At this point id rather have just smoth resistance to the wheel with NO center!

I never said for anyone to put master and sop at "16".. That's what "I" put it at! You put in whatever the hell fits your fancy, but if you did exactly what I wrote in my post on xbox one, then you shouldn't be having problems.. If you are still having problems, then it just might be something completely different.. I DUNNO..

Dynomight Motorsports
19-06-2015, 23:19
Most people don't realize NASCAR uses powersteering since 1988 at least. The only resistance they feel is the force put on the wheel by the offset caster. I don't know about GT3 cars, I've never driven those. But a NASCAR cup car almost turns itself when you turn down into the corner because of that offset caster. But we want to feel when the rear tires lose grip and that's hard when you are trying to convey all the force of the car through the wheel instead of having a simulator rig. I could always tell in my butt when the rear tires were about to break loose. It's much harder on the console though.

ashasha
19-06-2015, 23:34
Most people don't realize NASCAR uses powersteering since 1988 at least. The only resistance they feel is the force put on the wheel by the offset caster. I don't know about GT3 cars, I've never driven those. But a NASCAR cup car almost turns itself when you turn down into the corner because of that offset caster. But we want to feel when the rear tires lose grip and that's hard when you are trying to convey all the force of the car through the wheel instead of having a simulator rig. I could always tell in my butt when the rear tires were about to break loose. It's much harder on the console though.
Yeah and trying to steer with your butt is going to get some erratic lap times....I know. :moon: <--had to use the moon emoticon for that one.

Dynomight Motorsports
19-06-2015, 23:54
Oval tracking is easy in a Cup car, you feel the g-forces push you down into the seat when the rear end plants in Real Life. On the console all we have is Visual, and audible que's that tell us the rear of the car is giving up, ie Engine reving higher with loss of traction or the visual point of seeing the front of the car point a different direction to which we apply counter steer. The game is supposed to give us a lighter feel when we turn the wheel and the rear is not planted. Not sure, what we really need to feel and make the proper adjustments. I just know I had grown accustomed to the previous FFB settings and the car, at least my GT3 was very predictable. Now its like learning to read braile (literature for the blind) all over again or in a different language.

STEELJOCKEY
20-06-2015, 05:37
Gotta say I'm lovin the FFB now, mid corner, popping front wheels in the air, off a bump, Tx wheel goes completely loose then BAM, wheel yanked straight as the front wheels hit the ground and get traction. Gotta love turn 10 on Bathurst.

Thanks SMS staff, awesome!

Olijke Poffer
20-06-2015, 06:48
Yeah, I don't have any problems with my wheel (Thrusmaster TX458) as well. I love it. Feels great.. In real life you don't feel every bump etc on the steering wheel. At least not in my car. Yeah some little vibration and as I have power steering in the car it all feels very smooth while steering.. Anyway I love it and from me you won't here any complaints.
One thing I do encounter and that is FFB Loss when switching to snap app. I then must reset the game.

STEELJOCKEY
20-06-2015, 08:31
That's a known bug and being looked into I read here somewhere

Olijke Poffer
20-06-2015, 08:37
Indeed but I thought it was more on the Xbox site than on Pcars...

jschenard
20-06-2015, 10:00
I have a quick question for the TX

Before the wheel rotation changed based on the car yoi drove. For exemple formula A was 270 degrees and fully locked at that point. And road car was 900 degrees.

Now with a formula A the wheel can be turned past 270. There is a small FFB lock but not a physical lock as before. Am i doing something wrong ?

Thanks a lot

Pikamark
20-06-2015, 11:34
Has anyone that's updated firmware to 49b noticed that the mode light if changing rotation no longer flashes green and just flashes red? Feels good though just left everything at default settings

Stag
20-06-2015, 11:58
Few mates round tonight so I'm going for the Mans man settings. Ffb200 tyre force 200. None of that turn the firce down stuff here. :cool:

Brent G
20-06-2015, 12:26
Few mates round tonight so I'm going for the Mans man settings. Ffb200 tyre force 200. None of that turn the firce down stuff here. :cool:

Bad wrist to go with your bust ankle then mate?

nissan4ever
20-06-2015, 12:26
Has anyone that's updated firmware to 49b noticed that the mode light if changing rotation no longer flashes green and just flashes red? Feels good though just left everything at default settingsBefore one of the last firmware updates it used to flash red when changing DOR. Then it changed to green on V47 or V48. Personally, I'm glad it's back red if that's the case. I haven't changed my DOR on my TX since getting V49 to see that.

Brent G
20-06-2015, 12:41
According to the FFB meter in the HUD Im at times getting clipping. Its only on fairly rare occasion but Im wondering is there anything to stop it other than lowering tyre force or the per car master scales. Would adjusting the clipping settings have an effect and if so how do half and full have to corralate in respect to one another? I dont really want to lower TF as its pretty much perfect right now and as such this is why Im picking brains, as Im scared to balls it up!

Jack Spade
20-06-2015, 12:55
According to the FFB meter in the HUD Im at times getting clipping. Its only on fairly rare occasion but Im wondering is there anything to stop it other than lowering tyre force or the per car master scales. Would adjusting the clipping settings have an effect and if so how do half and full have to corralate in respect to one another? I dont really want to lower TF as its pretty much perfect right now and as such this is why Im picking brains, as Im scared to balls it up!

Take a look at the first page of my thread suggestions there, just follow the link in my signature.

Brent G
20-06-2015, 12:59
Take a look at the first page of my thread suggestions there, just follow the link in my signature.

Cheers Jack, yet again!

nissan4ever
20-06-2015, 13:05
Cheers Jack, yet again!

Yeah, you also need to double check other option & help section settings to for a few things too!

Brent G
20-06-2015, 19:10
Well now my TX feels great with the new FFB and not a small amount of help from my fellow forum members I've finally taken off the training wheels, and I must say I'm pretty impressed. Cant believe how much detail I was missing whilst following that little green/yellow/red line. Project Cars is coming along quite well in my eyes and is fast becoming a vastly different experiance to the one I had at launch. The people that gave up (admittedly I was almost one of em) are properly missing out now, Thumbs up SMS! ps can I have some more Group 5 plz..........I know, I know theres a thread for that!

Pikamark
20-06-2015, 19:24
Well now my TX feels great with the new FFB and not a small amount of help from my fellow forum members I've finally taken off the training wheels, and I must say I'm pretty impressed. Cant believe how much detail I was missing whilst following that little green/yellow/red line. Project Cars is coming along quite well in my eyes and is fast becoming a vastly different experiance to the one I had at launch. The people that gave up (admittedly I was almost one of em) are properly missing out now, Thumbs up SMS! ps can I have some more Group 5 plz..........I know, I know theres a thread for that!

So what are your final settings Brent are you using the settings on the first page of jacks spread sheet

Brent G
20-06-2015, 19:57
So what are your final settings Brent are you using the settings on the first page of jacks spread sheet

Im using default apart from the settings that are at the top of Wootballs spreadsheet for Jach Spade's FFB settings and soft clip half 1.50 and full 0.50. Im then using Jacks 66% figures with 40 Tyre Force. Feels nice, some cars still feel a touch light on the steering but upping the master and sop scales in equal amounts cures this. Thats just personal preference though mate.

Olijke Poffer
20-06-2015, 20:45
I use more or less the same although I have the tyre force set to 70.

inthebagbud
21-06-2015, 08:13
On Thursday I made a post in this thread about the frustrating time I had with patch 1.4 and ffb and thought it only right after expressing to also say I am back happy now

After a bit of work I have now managed to sort this out and are a lot happier, but I think some of my initial frustration lies around 2 issues.

1 - when changing settings for wheel setup I am not sure that all new settings are always saved. I spent 5/6 hours on Saturday going through the settings with 2 cars and 2 different tracks and by the end of the day I still couldn't get the feel I had before and there seemed no consistency to the different type of FFB I was getting. A new day dawns and I hard reset and a Y reset , jacks settings and 66% and lo and behold its like the cars have been replaced over night by the mechanic fairy. I cannot prove fully that their was an issue with the saves yesterday but I will in future bear this in mind and make regular resets when looking at settings

2 - My issues are compounded by what I can only describe as some cogging when you turn the TX wheel, it is as if I can feel this coming from the actual internal mechanism. . This was affecting how I was evaluating the FFB as I thought it was part of the FFB but I know think it is something from the wheel its self. I didn't have this prior to patch or the recent Thrustmaster update . This may all be coincidental ( but the wheel is only 2 weeks old) but do any other users experience this and is that normal, I certainly did not expect to feel this thought there would be no cogging because of the brushless motor

Now for some proper racing all day - well it is fathers day after all!

DragonSyr
21-06-2015, 08:24
one quick question... where can i find tire force setting???
i have DFGT wheel.

Brent G
21-06-2015, 09:44
On Thursday I made a post in this thread about the frustrating time I had with patch 1.4 and ffb and thought it only right after expressing to also say I am back happy now

After a bit of work I have now managed to sort this out and are a lot happier, but I think some of my initial frustration lies around 2 issues.

1 - when changing settings for wheel setup I am not sure that all new settings are always saved. I spent 5/6 hours on Saturday going through the settings with 2 cars and 2 different tracks and by the end of the day I still couldn't get the feel I had before and there seemed no consistency to the different type of FFB I was getting. A new day dawns and I hard reset and a Y reset , jacks settings and 66% and lo and behold its like the cars have been replaced over night by the mechanic fairy. I cannot prove fully that their was an issue with the saves yesterday but I will in future bear this in mind and make regular resets when looking at settings

2 - My issues are compounded by what I can only describe as some cogging when you turn the TX wheel, it is as if I can feel this coming from the actual internal mechanism. . This was affecting how I was evaluating the FFB as I thought it was part of the FFB but I know think it is something from the wheel its self. I didn't have this prior to patch or the recent Thrustmaster update . This may all be coincidental ( but the wheel is only 2 weeks old) but do any other users experience this and is that normal, I certainly did not expect to feel this thought there would be no cogging because of the brushless motor

Now for some proper racing all day - well it is fathers day after all!

I had the same coggy/notchy feel but I found that lowering tyre force significantly reduces the effect. Im now set at 45 TF and the cogging has virtually vanished. I think the vast increase in the FFB post patch v.1.4 is too strong to run 100 TF. Having said that since updating the TX's firmware to v.49.B9 I've now been able to increase the tyre force a tad. I think this is due to the fact that the Thrustmaster Firmware update was released to coincide with SMS' new FFB settings.

Brent G
21-06-2015, 09:46
one quick question... where can i find tire force setting???
i have DFGT wheel.

Go to options for control settings and you'll find it in FFB calibration, right at the top.