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mavrick2020
18-06-2015, 01:17
I was excited that we were finally getting the 1.4 patch right up till it killed my wheel. I updated to 1.4 and even reset my Xbox as others have recommended, I calibrated the wheel went to test a car and all of the sudden lost force feedback. I shut the game down and plugged the wheel back in ans as the wheel tried to self calibrate itself but would just slam hard to the right...ended up calling thrusmaster support and they sent a calibration tool to see if it would fix the issue, it did not. Now I have to have the base replaced when it worked fine right up to the update, the update the Microsoft was not going to pass b/c of a bug with wheel support....I guess the should have just kicked it back to you.

I hope no one else runs across this issue as this has just been aggravating.

Edit: Wheel was updated to V.48, plugged wheel into the xbox before starting the game and all FFB settings were reset/re-calibrated before use.

nissan4ever
18-06-2015, 01:22
Do you have a TH8A shifter? If you do, try disconnecting shifter from the TX, & then cut wheel on. See if it calibrates correctly. If it does & appears to be fine. Cut it back of, rehook the TH8A shifter. Cut wheel back on. I had that very problem when I lost FFB on the game. I unplugged wheel to fast & plugged it up to fast. It wouldn't stay on after calibrating. Once I tried what I described to you, it was back working fine.

If what I described fixes your issue, make sure you update title to your thread.

Dynomight Motorsports
18-06-2015, 03:55
I had a Wheel issue the other day..with my TX. Don't know if this will help but you can try it any way.. take a small brush or old tooth brush (clean) of course and clean your USB cable tip and quick connect with Iso-Alcohol. It may help, may not, can't hurt.

MysterG
18-06-2015, 05:53
The fact your wheel broke and Thrustmaster are replacing it would suggest a fault with the wheel not the game.
Just because it broke when in game does not mean "the game broke it" ... it's not like it could break when not in a game is it.

CLOWN KAOSZ
18-06-2015, 06:07
The fact your wheel broke and Thrustmaster are replacing it would suggest a fault with the wheel not the game.
Just because it broke when in game does not mean "the game broke it" ... it's not like it could break when not in a game is it.

Unfortunatly it is a problem since patch 1.4 because I also have this issue. I do have to say that the wheel works great, BUT when I connect via usb my wheel starts calibrating and when it comes to the point that it's have to center is keeps clipping from left to right.
The night before the patch it worked fine self-calibrating, after downloading the patch the problem started.

So I do have to say that somehow it has to do with the new patch, also because of the changes in the FFB.

Adrian91
18-06-2015, 06:31
Unfortunatly it is a problem since patch 1.4 because I also have this issue. I do have to say that the wheel works great, BUT when I connect via usb my wheel starts calibrating and when it comes to the point that it's have to center is keeps clipping from left to right.
The night before the patch it worked fine self-calibrating, after downloading the patch the problem started.

So I do have to say that somehow it has to do with the new patch, also because of the changes in the FFB.

Yes, this is what I happened too!
And it is so annoying, because if you are in the race and when you try to steer, the wheel automatically start to clipping from left to right.

Did you notice that the degree are not working well? I used to play at 720 (3 flashes) and right now I put it on 540 (2 flashes) and when I steer on a corner, I have to steer TOO, TOO much ... so I think that I have to play with 270 (1 flash) like I play a Formula car, but I normally play with GT cars ...

This is so weird ... really!

stux
18-06-2015, 06:38
Plug it in on the dash before launching the game

In menu the game causes an oscillation in the wheel, which I think would be triggered by the wheel self-calibration

nikbra
18-06-2015, 06:39
Hi all !

I also have a TX Wheel. Did update the game yesterday without my wheel connected to the Xbox One.
After reading this i'm a little bit thoughtful what to do. Don't want to brick it "on purpose". Any recommendations ?
Mavrick2000 - Did the tips in this thread solve your problems ? Have you tested the wheel on any other game or on a PC ?

//Regards Nikbra

CLOWN KAOSZ
18-06-2015, 06:45
Yes, this is what I happened too!
And it is so annoying, because if you are in the race and when you try to steer, the wheel automatically start to clipping from left to right.

Did you notice that the degree are not working well? I used to play at 720 (3 flashes) and right now I put it on 540 (2 flashes) and when I steer on a corner, I have to steer TOO, TOO much ... so I think that I have to play with 270 (1 flash) like I play a Formula car, but I normally play with GT cars ...

This is so weird ... really!

I don't have the problem in game that my wheel is clipping when I try to steer. It's only when it's self-calibrating.

I didn't notice anything with the degrees settings but I do have to say that I always play with the 270degrees setting (GT or formula A). The biggest difference I noticed were the new FFB settings and when your almost at stand still you'll have to work the wheel more to corner. But if you keep good speed (besides of what corner it is) this isn't a big problem and you can get the corner as you want.
Also when I'm calibrating my wheel in game it works normal when I use the 270degrees setting (first the full left to right and then the 90degrees) it says 100 when I turn the wheel full left to right.

Maybe you could do a hard reset with your wheel or check if you have the latest firmware update?

CLOWN KAOSZ
18-06-2015, 06:48
Plug it in on the dash before launching the game

In menu the game causes an oscillation in the wheel, which I think would be triggered by the wheel self-calibration

I always plug it in before launching the game (I also did it the first time after the patch) but unfortunatly I keep having the same issue.

jaykaybe
18-06-2015, 06:54
To everyone who has trouble with the wheel in the menu (clipping, wobble, turning..or whatever you may call this), go to your steering options and reset your wheel. all the weirdness stops immediately. had the same issue with my fanatec csw v2...

CLOWN KAOSZ
18-06-2015, 07:12
Good that it helped you! :)

Thank god I don't have any issues ingame (in menu or other). Only the self-calibrating, but in a other thread someone stated that he fixed the problem so I asked him what he did to fix it.
Still waiting for an answer but if he gives one I'll try it out and if it works I'll post it here!

Sankyo
18-06-2015, 07:49
If you use your wheel on anything else than 900 degrees (or OFF/Automatic, if applicable), you may expect weird behaviour as the game has been made to work with 900 degrees and the game will adjust the steering angle of the wheel depending on the car, based on the real-life steering lock of the car. Using very small steering angles on your wheel may mess up stuff, especially FFB.

TrevorAustin
18-06-2015, 07:58
Have the people with the TX problem 100% for certain done the firmware update to 43? Because as I understand it you will brick your wheel due to a firmware problem, nothing to do with the game. When my TX arrived there was a big notice telling me I MUST update before using it and the website has the same warning.

TrevorAustin
18-06-2015, 08:00
If you use your wheel on anything else than 900 degrees (or OFF/Automatic, if applicable), you may expect weird behaviour as the game has been made to work with 900 degrees and the game will adjust the steering angle of the wheel depending on the car, based on the real-life steering lock of the car. Using very small steering angles on your wheel may mess up stuff, especially FFB.

Is that the same with PC Remco? I've found my steering to be MUCH nicer using the F1 rim's default setting of 360 with the formula A car and the LMP cars? Was surprised at how much nicer it felt.

itakethepics
18-06-2015, 08:21
Think the current version for the TX is Firmware v.48

Think i feel lucky i updated mine to v48 last night before using the 1.4 patch. I am getting clipping though so ill reset back to default and go from there again.


Have the people with the TX problem 100% for certain done the firmware update to 43? Because as I understand it you will brick your wheel due to a firmware problem, nothing to do with the game. When my TX arrived there was a big notice telling me I MUST update before using it and the website has the same warning.

CLOWN KAOSZ
18-06-2015, 08:28
If you use your wheel on anything else than 900 degrees (or OFF/Automatic, if applicable), you may expect weird behaviour as the game has been made to work with 900 degrees and the game will adjust the steering angle of the wheel depending on the car, based on the real-life steering lock of the car. Using very small steering angles on your wheel may mess up stuff, especially FFB.

Mine TX wheel never did adjusting according to the car I drove. It was either 900degrees or the setting in which I set it myself. (if it was a reply to me :))
The FFB is not the problem with me, it works as it should be.

CLOWN KAOSZ
18-06-2015, 08:32
Have the people with the TX problem 100% for certain done the firmware update to 43? Because as I understand it you will brick your wheel due to a firmware problem, nothing to do with the game. When my TX arrived there was a big notice telling me I MUST update before using it and the website has the same warning.

As itakethepics said, the last firmware version is V.48. When I got my wheel from the retailer it already was v.48 (got the wheel for about a week/2 weeks now). So it was before the last patch. I think that they say that jou MUST update is because of Thrustmaster itself with newer firmware according to games on the market. With this I mean that when F1 2015 is released there probably will be a new firmware update because of the game itself to make sure that the wheel will work correctly.

Ixoye56
18-06-2015, 08:57
The patch reset all wheel settings to default so you have to recalibrate your wheel and adjust your FFB

Btw! I use 360 degrees on all cars feels best for me.

TrevorAustin
18-06-2015, 09:04
As itakethepics said, the last firmware version is V.48. When I got my wheel from the retailer it already was v.48 (got the wheel for about a week/2 weeks now). So it was before the last patch. I think that they say that jou MUST update is because of Thrustmaster itself with newer firmware according to games on the market. With this I mean that when F1 2015 is released there probably will be a new firmware update because of the game itself to make sure that the wheel will work correctly.

I understand it was to stop the wheel burning out due to an issue on pre 48 firmware.

Sankyo
18-06-2015, 09:16
Mine TX wheel never did adjusting according to the car I drove. It was either 900degrees or the setting in which I set it myself. (if it was a reply to me :))
The FFB is not the problem with me, it works as it should be.
How did you determine that the soft steering lock per car didn't work?

nikbra
18-06-2015, 09:18
I understand it was to stop the wheel burning out due to an issue on pre 48 firmware.

What do you recommend here ? Update to latest firmware ?

//Regards Nikbra

Brent G
18-06-2015, 09:20
Think the current version for the TX is Firmware v.48

Think i feel lucky i updated mine to v48 last night before using the 1.4 patch. I am getting clipping though so ill reset back to default and go from there again.

Yeah current firmware is 48.B9.

CLOWN KAOSZ
18-06-2015, 09:24
I understand it was to stop the wheel burning out due to an issue on pre 48 firmware.

Ok, thanks for the notice :)

CLOWN KAOSZ
18-06-2015, 09:25
How did you determine that the soft steering lock per car didn't work?

Uh Remco, is it possible to send pm in dutch to make sure I understand you correctly with certain things? :)

**EDIT: I tried to sent a private message but it seems that it wasn't sent at all when I take a look at my sent messages. Maybe you could sent me a test pm?

Thanks!

CLOWN KAOSZ
18-06-2015, 10:02
Ow I got one question tho:

When I got the driver from the Thrustmaster website I don't seem to get the wheel control panel as you see on there website or in the manual. I have windows 8 and somehow when I open the downloaded Thrustmaster->FFB racing wheel I dont get the control panel/firmware update/update service as shown. I only could open a other program with the name Guillemot and then I got a screen for the wheel to see the version and I could update. But is way different of what is shown on the website or in the manual.

Does anyone know what I need to do?

Thanks!

LextersQuest
18-06-2015, 10:11
Ow I got one question tho:

When I got the driver from the Thrustmaster website I don't seem to get the wheel control panel as you see on there website or in the manual. I have windows 8 and somehow when I open the downloaded Thrustmaster->FFB racing wheel I dont get the control panel/firmware update/update service as shown. I only could open a other program with the name Guillemot and then I got a screen for the wheel to see the version and I could update. But is way different of what is shown on the website or in the manual.

Does anyone know what I need to do?

Thanks!

Im using window 7, but before in the beginning i had problem with the control panel. I removed it from computer and reinstalled it. Seem to have worked for me.
Mayby totally different problem that you having just posting what helped for me.

CLOWN KAOSZ
18-06-2015, 10:20
Im using window 7, but before in the beginning i had problem with the control panel. I removed it from computer and reinstalled it. Seem to have worked for me.
Mayby totally different problem that you having just posting what helped for me.

I've installed it on my work computer (windows 7) and when I go to start/all programs/etc. it works how is shown. But windows 8 doens't have the start button (maybe it does but I don't know how to find it).
Also I saw a post of you that you fixed the problem with the self-calibrating of the wheel and the issue with it centering. What worked for you?

Dynomight Motorsports
18-06-2015, 10:37
Yes, I had the Oscilating wheel when calibrating in the Game Menu. If I do it on track though the wheel is fine. Also once it started to Oscilate I hit A button and it stopped. Got out on track and everything was fine, but till then the wheel was super stiff. Like 3x the normal firmness to turn it.

Lagoa
18-06-2015, 11:03
How did you determine that the soft steering lock per car didn't work?

I don't know what LMP is in real life but at first I did as you said. Leave it at 900 degrees and let the game change the dor. But that just didn't feel good, he did adjust, but not enough.. LMP felt like 540 degrees. So now I put it to 270 myself on the base, feels better.

psydeviant1
18-06-2015, 11:09
How did you determine that the soft steering lock per car didn't work?

if i calibrate the wheel at 900 as you say , then select formula A car and go to track , at the first corner the car goes straight off the circuit as the car is to slow to steer you have to put in too many rotations to turn the corner .

if i calibrate the wheel at 360 then select same car, first corner is fine 180 degrees on the wheel is full lock on the car , perfect , so im saying the game is not adjusting per car as you say , manually setting the DOR on the base at 360 (2 flashes)and then calibrating in game seems to be the only way

Sankyo
18-06-2015, 11:14
if i calibrate the wheel at 900 as you say , then select formula A car and go to track , at the first corner the car goes straight off the circuit as the car is to slow to steer you have to put in too many rotations to turn the corner .

if i calibrate the wheel at 360 then select same car, first corner is fine 180 degrees on the wheel is full lock on the car , perfect , so im saying the game is not adjusting per car as you say , manually setting the DOR on the base at 360 (2 flashes)and then calibrating in game seems to be the only way
But if you take the Formula A and turn the wheel through its full rotation, does it only stop at 900 degrees or does it hit a soft stop before that?

mavrick2020
18-06-2015, 11:15
The fact your wheel broke and Thrustmaster are replacing it would suggest a fault with the wheel not the game.
Just because it broke when in game does not mean "the game broke it" ... it's not like it could break when not in a game is it.

Don't get me wrong I love the game but totally disagree and believe the game did cause the issue, I played the night before perfectly fine and as soon as I update 15 min in I start having the issue. Thrustmaster is replacing the base b/c it is less than a month old and looking at the thread so far I am not the only one with the issue.

stux
18-06-2015, 11:16
I've installed it on my work computer (windows 7) and when I go to start/all programs/etc. it works how is shown. But windows 8 doens't have the start button (maybe it does but I don't know how to find it).
Also I saw a post of you that you fixed the problem with the self-calibrating of the wheel and the issue with it centering. What worked for you?

Each of the thrustmaster control programs has a name. Each of those apps is installed on your system. On he start screen start typing the name of the control panel (from memory it's something generic) and you should find it

Lagoa
18-06-2015, 11:18
But if you take the Formula A and turn the wheel through its full rotation, does it only stop at 900 degrees or does it hit a soft stop before that?

Yes it did with my game. But still was way too much rotation for me :P

psydeviant1
18-06-2015, 11:25
But if you take the Formula A and turn the wheel through its full rotation, does it only stop at 900 degrees or does it hit a soft stop before that?

as far as i know its stays at 900, and doesn't adjust the ratio at all , taking the FA around Azure with 900 calibration= no chance, which is why i switched to 360 , im happy running at that DOR and have no problems with the game im not experiencing any of the issues that others are reporting (yet) the only probs i have had with the game since launch were the sound bug and weak FFB , spent a couple of hours last night with patch 1.4 but spent most of the time re adjusting FFB settings to suit , will have a good go later though , hoping things don't go sour

mavrick2020
18-06-2015, 11:40
Have the people with the TX problem 100% for certain done the firmware update to 43? Because as I understand it you will brick your wheel due to a firmware problem, nothing to do with the game. When my TX arrived there was a big notice telling me I MUST update before using it and the website has the same warning.

Yes sir, 1st thing I did when took it out of the box was the update.

mavrick2020
18-06-2015, 11:43
Think the current version for the TX is Firmware v.48

Think i feel lucky i updated mine to v48 last night before using the 1.4 patch. I am getting clipping though so ill reset back to default and go from there again.

You are correct V.48 is the current one and mine was updated to that before the 1.4 patch.

mavrick2020
18-06-2015, 11:45
The patch reset all wheel settings to default so you have to recalibrate your wheel and adjust your FFB

Btw! I use 360 degrees on all cars feels best for me.

I reset all settings and calibrated after I updated.

mavrick2020
18-06-2015, 12:03
Do you have a TH8A shifter? If you do, try disconnecting shifter from the TX, & then cut wheel on. See if it calibrates correctly. If it does & appears to be fine. Cut it back of, rehook the TH8A shifter. Cut wheel back on. I had that very problem when I lost FFB on the game. I unplugged wheel to fast & plugged it up to fast. It wouldn't stay on after calibrating. Once I tried what I described to you, it was back working fine.

If what I described fixes your issue, make sure you update title to your thread.

I don't have the shifter so unfortunately that is not causing the issue, thanks for the feedback though.