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Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 15:48
I'm pretty sure this is an XBOX problem not a problem with the wheel or the game. But you guys are pretty XBOX savvy so hopefully someone can help.

Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel - I tried to do an update to firmware v49, which didn't work (separate problem that I'll deal with Thrustmaster about). So I loaded v48 back up, went to the game and went through the usual reset to default & re-calibrate procedure. I changed a few parameters like steering sensitivity, relative gain adjust, etc. and saved the configuration. Then I exited options and went to free practice to run some laps. When I pressed the A button to start driving, I got a message that the controller had been disconnected. I checked the cable and everything seemed fine but I unplugged it and plugged it back in. The wheel rotated back & forth like it's supposed to but the game didn't respond to any button presses or anything. I reset the XBOX by unplugging the power supply, let it sit for 10-15 seconds and plugged back in. Same result. I plugged the wheel back into my computer (again with the rotate back and forth) fired up the TM control panel program and verified that the controller is working. Button presses worked, wheel rotation worked, etc. Back to the XBOX and still no joy.

Anybody got any ideas? Thanks in advance.

ETA: One other thing I noticed is that after doing the auto-calibration, the X light and the mode light both go out.

SwiftyJ
20-06-2015, 15:53
I also experienced my TX wheel disconnecting about 5-10 seconds after it performed the start up calibration. It worked perfectly whilst connected to my PC but was completely unusable when connected to my xbox.

I unfortunately had to return it as I could find no solution to the issue.

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 16:04
Update: Maybe the wheel is bricked. Now I can't get it to talk to either the TM control panel or the firmware updater.

ETA: Now it does talk to the control panel again.....very strange.

Raven403
20-06-2015, 16:35
Update: Maybe the wheel is bricked. Now I can't get it to talk to either the TM control panel or the firmware updater.

ETA: Now it does talk to the control panel again.....very strange.

What exactly happened when you tried to update it, it sounds like something went very wrong

Issysdad
20-06-2015, 16:39
I had this problem. Easy fix and Thrustmaster Tech support in the U.K were brilliant, hopefully you'll get the same service.

After a few emails back and fourth they established it was a problem with the USB Cable. They popped a new one out to me in the post (after asking me if I'd be confident enough to open the wheel myself). It arrived, I fitted it and no problems have occurred since. From the first call to the replacement arriving took less than a week.

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 16:40
Nothing really. I launched the updater and it only showed the v48 firmware in the firmware box. There was no option to select v49. The wheel worked fine after that during the in-game calibration and all that. It was when I hit A to start driving that it went tango uniform. Right now it's not talking to the control panel again. Maybe an intermittent cable problem? I've contacted TM but I don't expect to hear back until Monday or Tuesday.

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 16:42
I had this problem. Easy fix and Thrustmaster Tech support in the U.K were brilliant, hopefully you'll get the same service.

After a few emails back and fourth they established it was a problem with the USB Cable. They popped a new one out to me in the post (after asking me if I'd be confident enough to open the wheel myself). It arrived, I fitted it and no problems have occurred since. From the first call to the replacement arriving took less than a week.

Due to the intermittent nature I'm thinking maybe a cable issue as well. I don't mind opening up the guts if necessary. Having a hardwired cable is really a poor design though and then using a proprietary connector on it compounds the problem. Hope my problem is the same as yours, thanks for at least giving me hope that it's not the base. :)

RoccoTTS
20-06-2015, 16:43
Nothing really. I launched the updater and it only showed the v48 firmware in the firmware box. There was no option to select v49. The wheel worked fine after that during the in-game calibration and all that. It was when I hit A to start driving that it went tango uniform. Right now it's not talking to the control panel again. Maybe an intermittent cable problem? I've contacted TM but I don't expect to hear back until Monday or Tuesday.

You need to download a new updater also. You will find v49 in the new updater.

Raven403
20-06-2015, 16:47
You need to download a new updater also. You will find v49 in the new updater.

^^That

But yeah it does sound like a cable issue or somethin.

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 16:47
You need to download a new updater also. You will find v49 in the new updater.
I did download & install the new driver package. Is that what you're referring to? It was called 2015_TTRS_1.

Seps1974
20-06-2015, 16:48
Have you tried to download the V49 directly from Thrustmaster's site?

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pub/webupdate/T500RS/2015_TTRS_1.exe

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pub/webupdate/T500RS/TXRW_Firmware_Update_Procedure_V49.pdf

RoccoTTS
20-06-2015, 16:50
I did download & install the new driver package. Is that what you're referring to? It was called 2015_TTRS_1.

Yes, i was referring to 2015_TTRS_1

LextersQuest
20-06-2015, 17:03
I'm pretty sure this is an XBOX problem not a problem with the wheel or the game. But you guys are pretty XBOX savvy so hopefully someone can help.

Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel - I tried to do an update to firmware v49, which didn't work (separate problem that I'll deal with Thrustmaster about). So I loaded v48 back up, went to the game and went through the usual reset to default & re-calibrate procedure. I changed a few parameters like steering sensitivity, relative gain adjust, etc. and saved the configuration. Then I exited options and went to free practice to run some laps. When I pressed the A button to start driving, I got a message that the controller had been disconnected. I checked the cable and everything seemed fine but I unplugged it and plugged it back in. The wheel rotated back & forth like it's supposed to but the game didn't respond to any button presses or anything. I reset the XBOX by unplugging the power supply, let it sit for 10-15 seconds and plugged back in. Same result. I plugged the wheel back into my computer (again with the rotate back and forth) fired up the TM control panel program and verified that the controller is working. Button presses worked, wheel rotation worked, etc. Back to the XBOX and still no joy.

Anybody got any ideas? Thanks in advance.

ETA: One other thing I noticed is that after doing the auto-calibration, the X light and the mode light both go out.

Its the cable of your wheel. The last part is like a breakfree part with the usb connector attached to it. I had this problem also.
I replaced mine with other of better quality and didnt have any problems anymore. (that breakfree usb part is the same as they use on a 360 controller)

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 17:09
I was able to install v49 by uninstalling the driver package and then re-installing it. It still doesn't work with the XBOX.

@LextersQuest, do you think it's the breakaway part that's bad? If so, is it possible to buy a new one somewhere (Best Buy or someplace similar)?

LextersQuest
20-06-2015, 17:12
I was able to install v49 by uninstalling the driver package and then re-installing it. It still doesn't work with the XBOX.

@LextersQuest, do you think it's the breakaway part that's bad? If so, is it possible to buy a new one somewhere (Best Buy or someplace similar)?

If the problem is like : connecting to xbox - wheel does it calibration left right and afterwards dies (light go out) i would say yes its the breakaway part. You can find it online or take it from a 360controller. I took one of a new 360 controller and never had any problems anymore.

You feel it wen you put the usb in the xbox its like litle wobly. Thrustmaster just connected a really low quality part to it.

AtomicSphincter
20-06-2015, 17:14
Well at least it communicates with your pc. Are you able to go into the control panel of the wheel and see onscreen readouts of your wheel input?

LextersQuest
20-06-2015, 17:15
I was able to install v49 by uninstalling the driver package and then re-installing it. It still doesn't work with the XBOX.

@LextersQuest, do you think it's the breakaway part that's bad? If so, is it possible to buy a new one somewhere (Best Buy or someplace similar)?

But then i also had that problem wen i connected to my pc. Calibrating and then died.

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 17:16
Mine is a little wobbly so hopefully that's it. Any idea what that cable is called so that I can search for it?

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 17:16
Well at least it communicates with your pc. Are you able to go into the control panel of the wheel and see onscreen readouts of your wheel input?

Yes.

LextersQuest
20-06-2015, 17:18
Mine is a little wobbly so hopefully that's it. Any idea what that cable is called so that I can search for it?

usb breakaway cable.
Just sharing what work for me. So dont shoot me if this doesnt solve your problem.:)

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 17:19
I won't. I appreciate the help even if it doesn't work out.

Brent G
20-06-2015, 17:21
Gutted, hope you get sorted soon mate. Typical it packs up on a weekend when theres no one there to answer the bloody phone.

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 17:23
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Xbox-360-USB-Breakaway-Cable/dp/B0046RMJRU

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Y4e1TaUpL.jpg

LextersQuest
20-06-2015, 17:23
I won't. I appreciate the help even if it doesn't work out.

Myself didnt find a shop where i could buy it. Only found that online. So to be sure and have good quality i went and bought a new 360 controller and changed the breakaway part.
Hope it work out good.

LextersQuest
20-06-2015, 17:23
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Xbox-360-USB-Breakaway-Cable/dp/B0046RMJRU

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Y4e1TaUpL.jpg

yes thats it.

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 17:24
Gutted, hope you get sorted soon mate. Typical it packs up on a weekend when theres no one there to answer the bloody phone.
I know...it's aggravating. Grrrr. We get a new patch that I didn't have much time to check out during the week. The weekend comes along and now my wheel stops working. Gah!

LextersQuest
20-06-2015, 17:28
I know...it's aggravating. Grrrr. We get a new patch that I didn't have much time to check out during the week. The weekend comes along and now my wheel stops working. Gah!

If your not able to go to shop now.
Then just put your xbox on and plug the usb from wheel in. Calibrating left right - if it dies pull usb out and try again. If the cable is your problem its all down to bad connection.
I managed to survive like that for 2 days until i got to the shop.

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 17:36
If your not able to go to shop now.
Then just put your xbox on and plug the usb from wheel in. Calibrating left right - if it dies pull usb out and try again. If the cable is your problem its all down to bad connection.
I managed to survive like that for 2 days until i got to the shop.

I've yet to get it to work with the Xbox since this happened. I've been able to get it to work intermittently with the PC (enough to update the firmware for example) but not at all with the Xbox.

LextersQuest
20-06-2015, 17:43
I've yet to get it to work with the Xbox since this happened. I've been able to get it to work intermittently with the PC (enough to update the firmware for example) but not at all with the Xbox.

If you mean that wen plugging usb in pc it calibrates and sometime dies and sometimes it doesnt?

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 17:45
If you mean that wen plugging usb in pc it calibrates and sometime dies and sometimes it doesnt?
It sometimes will talk to the control panel and sometimes won't. The Xbox fails to recognize it at all.

LextersQuest
20-06-2015, 17:46
It sometimes will talk to the control panel and sometimes won't. The Xbox fails to recognize it at all.

Sorry but before it dies it does do the calibration left right (on pc and xbox)?

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 17:59
Yes, it auto-calibrates on both. Sorry for misunderstanding what you were asking.

LextersQuest
20-06-2015, 18:03
Yes, it auto-calibrates on both. Sorry for misunderstanding what you were asking.

No worries. So thats exactly what my problem was. after auto-calibration dies dead.

Wel i gues thats good news then and it should be solved with an other cable. (good news meaning you will not have to send it back for repairs)

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 18:20
Fingers crossed. New cable on order along with a 2 meter extension.

LextersQuest
20-06-2015, 18:27
Fingers crossed. New cable on order along with a 2 meter extension.

Ok just make sure its the right one;)
I just used one coming from a 360 controller.
Hope you get it soon.
Drop a dumps up or down after you got yours.

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 18:40
I just used one coming from a 360 controller.
I don't remember getting one with my 360 and I didn't see it in the box o' crap where my old 360 kit is. Better be the right one or you owe me a case of Boon Kriek. :)

Cush
20-06-2015, 18:51
Slightly off topic but my 3 week old Thrustmaster TX has suddenly died on me. I cant get a response from it either on PC or Xbox1. Was working fine earlier but now it wont calibrate/spin when windows starts and the red light does not illuminate. Same on Xbox1 the wheel is unrecognised. Anyone any ideas......could it be the USB lead mentioned earlier in this thread ? or has it just died !

Schnizz58
20-06-2015, 19:11
That sounds more like a power supply issue. Make sure the power plug is securely connected in the back (and to the mains of course). Do any of the lights ever come on at all?

Cush
21-06-2015, 08:07
Ive checked that plus even changed the fuse. None of the lights come on. As its only 3 weeks old Im hoping they will just replace it.

TrevorAustin
21-06-2015, 08:51
Or in bootloader mode? Check device manager on pc.

Do you still get the usb connection sound? It's what has happened to mine on failed firmware updates.

BiggNasty187
21-06-2015, 09:40
Bro! Don't bother with another break away cable, just cut the damn cable, splice away and no more probs guaranteed!!!

I had your same issue, it just didn't make any sense. It just stopped working one day (would calibrate, then nothing). it would work fine on the PC, but not the Xbox. After a chop a scew of the breakaway ends, I'm back to trash taking after taking poles online.

Cush
21-06-2015, 10:21
Or in bootloader mode? Check device manager on pc.

Do you still get the usb connection sound? It's what has happened to mine on failed firmware updates.

I dont get the USB connection sound, just 3 short "beeps" indicating device failed to load. Ive tried holding the 2 buttons on the right to force it into "bootloader mode but no joy. Going to ring Thrustmaster support tomorrow and see what they suggest. Im really annoyed as I bought the GTX 970 card just for this game !!!

crunchy1X
21-06-2015, 13:07
Its the cable of your wheel. The last part is like a breakfree part with the usb connector attached to it. I had this problem also.
I replaced mine with other of better quality and didnt have any problems anymore. (that breakfree usb part is the same as they use on a 360 controller)
I've had the same thing on my wheel as well. Pretty much the exact same symptoms as Schnizz58 reported. First, the wheel stops connecting to the XBOX One - but still connects to the PC. Eventually it stops connecting to the PC as well.

Definitely start by just replacing the breakaway part. I think there's a good chance that will fix your problems.

Snowowl
21-06-2015, 13:20
One thing to do is after a reset of the console (complete hard shutdown from the panel X button, then disconnecting the external power pack from the wall so the power drains completely, etc.) is to plug in your USB connection from the wheel to one of the BACK USB ports BEFORE you fire the console back up.

The USB ports are not infallible and do need to be reminded once in a while what they're supposed to be doing, and to what device. With the Xbox One OFF, connect only the wheel USB to one of the two back ports, DO NOT connect your controller, then use the Big X on the X1 front to start the console. This gives the port itself a kick in the rear to pay attention.

Then, going forth, always connect the wheel before booting the Xbox One, so it is the primary device. This is not to say there may be problems with the cables, but at least you know for sure it isn't just the USB port acting up.

TrevorAustin
21-06-2015, 13:44
I dont get the USB connection sound, just 3 short "beeps" indicating device failed to load. Ive tried holding the 2 buttons on the right to force it into "bootloader mode but no joy. Going to ring Thrustmaster support tomorrow and see what they suggest. Im really annoyed as I bought the GTX 970 card just for this game !!!

Try on a different pc/laptop with usb 2 ports. And check device manager, its probably in block mode with a yelloe exclamation mark.

Cush
21-06-2015, 13:58
Ive got it working again. Some guy had posted the same problem as myself on the Thrustmaster page on Facebook a few days ago. It would seem to be a problem whilst updating the firmware to the latest version. It didnt update correctly (my PC just hung) and after that it would not be recognised by either the XB1 or the PC. When plugging the USB in it would give the 3 short bleeps to indicate device not recognised.

So I connected the wheel up to another PC which recognised it straight away. I downloaded the drivers etc and ran the firmware update. The wheel came back from the dead and is up and running !!!

JohnE
21-06-2015, 15:42
check USB cable from the quick connect to USB end. had problem with mind losing connection try twisting the in a u-shape if it makes connection call thrustmaster for a new one. they have a problem with them. GOOD LUCK.

Schnizz58
21-06-2015, 19:00
check USB cable from the quick connect to USB end. had problem with mind losing connection try twisting the in a u-shape if it makes connection call thrustmaster for a new one. they have a problem with them. GOOD LUCK.
If you're talking about the short breakaway cable, I've already got one on order from Amazon. It would take weeks to get one from TM. If you mean the hardwired USB cable, I'm hoping that's not it but if it is I already opened a ticket with TM to try to get them to send me a new one. I'm tempted to take BiggNasty's advice and cut the USB connector off the breakaway cable and splice it into the long cable in place of the round connector. That remains an option!

BiggNasty187
21-06-2015, 19:21
If you're talking about the short breakaway cable, I've already got one on order from Amazon. It would take weeks to get one from TM. If you mean the hardwired USB cable, I'm hoping that's not it but if it is I already opened a ticket with TM to try to get them to send me a new one. I'm tempted to take BiggNasty's advice and cut the USB connector off the breakaway cable and splice it into the long cable in place of the round connector. That remains an option!

Well, I considered ordering the cable, then I decided to take action. Ten minutes later I was back to bending over noobs. How long you spend away from awesomeness is up to you. Good luck bro!!!

TrevorAustin
21-06-2015, 19:23
Ive got it working again. Some guy had posted the same problem as myself on the Thrustmaster page on Facebook a few days ago. It would seem to be a problem whilst updating the firmware to the latest version. It didnt update correctly (my PC just hung) and after that it would not be recognised by either the XB1 or the PC. When plugging the USB in it would give the 3 short bleeps to indicate device not recognised.

So I connected the wheel up to another PC which recognised it straight away. I downloaded the drivers etc and ran the firmware update. The wheel came back from the dead and is up and running !!!

Lol, yes, exactly like i told you:)

stux
21-06-2015, 22:14
Bro! Don't bother with another break away cable, just cut the damn cable, splice away and no more probs guaranteed!!!

I had your same issue, it just didn't make any sense. It just stopped working one day (would calibrate, then nothing). it would work fine on the PC, but not the Xbox. After a chop a scew of the breakaway ends, I'm back to trash taking after taking poles online.

I'd be worried about voiding the very valuable warranty.

BiggNasty187
22-06-2015, 05:10
I'd be worried about voiding the very valuable warranty.

I purchased my version 1 TX wheel at a cut-throat price knowing that I was not getting any kind of warranty, but also knowing that v48 firmware fixed the overvoltage issues that killed many of the V1 TX wheels with the internal power supply.

A fast tracked revision consisting of an "external power supply" V2 TX wheel got pushed out to RMA's first, while they worked on the new firmware to keep the V1 wheels from going up in smoke.

I don't see this wheel giving up anytime soon.

Now that the power issues are worked out, and we now know that most issues come from that damned break away cable, this wheel can now be considered a SOLID platform for Sim racing.

So, I guess your worry about the warranty should only concern few, if any.

Schnizz58
24-06-2015, 23:57
Awwww right boys, I'm back in bidness. Got the new breakaway cable today and it actually does work. Thanks to everybody in this thread for helping me get back in the race!

ETA: Or not - http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?32854-Game-Crashing-to-Dashboard

Silas Andersen
28-06-2015, 22:48
Mine was bricked during the process of updating to latest firmware as well. Wrote Thrustmaster last night:

"I have used the wheel for a couple of years on XBOX 360 and One with Forza, and now project cars. I have been using the F1 rim quite a bit, and recently bought the T3PA and TH8A, which was also working pretty nicely. To get project cars working smoothly, i decided to check for firmware updates, and succesfully updated from 47 to 49. Then i decided to try and update the shifter as well, and now, nothing works.. I left the wheel's usb in the pc, when i tried to update the shifter. I don't know if i was supposed to connect the shifter itself directly to the pc? I tried that afterwards, which made it possible to calibrate and stuff, but the wheel itself still won't show anywhere.. :( Has it maybe tried to install the software for the shifter, on the wheel? I really hope you can help me out, because the whole setup is useless right now..
FYI it still turns from site to side when the power cord is applied. "


I hope it's the cable-thing, cause it didn't work installing from another computer - that one wouldn't recognize it either.. And yes, i have tried all sorts of reboots and looked at device manager and put it in bootloader mode and so on - still nothing.. Already ordered the small bit of the cable, while i'm waiting for answers..

Schnizz58
29-06-2015, 14:27
Silas I hope your issue gets resolved. In my case the wheel would talk to a PC and would even do a firmware update but wouldn't talk to the Xbox. The new breakaway cable took care of the issue. I could see a case where if the cable problem was more severe it might not talk to anything. Hopefully that's all it is and the new cable will fix it. Thrustmaster is also sending me a new lead that I would have to open up the wheel housing to install. This is because at first I didn't know whether the problem was in the breakaway or the main lead (or something else entirely). So I was prepared to install that if I needed to. I'm just going to hang on to the replacement lead in case I have trouble with that at some point in the future.

Lagoa
18-08-2015, 10:49
Having the exact same issue. Wheel calibrates then right after it loses connection and the leds turn off. So removing breakaway cable and just making it one main cable fixes this?
Or is it better to ask support for an entire new cable? But I saw this is hardwired, so it seems easier to splice the two cables to make one main cable?

Schnizz58
18-08-2015, 14:06
Having the exact same issue. Wheel calibrates then right after it loses connection and the leds turn off. So removing breakaway cable and just making it one main cable fixes this?
Or is it better to ask support for an entire new cable? But I saw this is hardwired, so it seems easier to splice the two cables to make one main cable?
I just replaced the breakaway cable and that solved the issue. To keep it from happening again, I also bought an extension to keep me from tripping over it and yanking it out of the plug. Thrustmaster did send me a new cable but I never installed it.

Lagoa
18-08-2015, 14:44
Well I think I have an extra breakaway cable from an old xbox 360 controller. I'll give that a go. But I did once trip on the tx cable and the pins inside the breakaway cable are deformed.. So don't know if this is going to fix it. Will see tonight

Lagoa
19-08-2015, 13:34
Well that breakaway cable for 360 did seem to fix it for now. But I do want a new cable. Have sent two emails to the trusthmaster support.. They just don't answer.... Wth?

AtomicSphincter
20-08-2015, 07:55
Well that breakaway cable for 360 did seem to fix it for now. But I do want a new cable. Have sent two emails to the trusthmaster support.. They just don't answer.... Wth?

It took them 18 days to reply to my email, so good luck!

Lagoa
20-08-2015, 09:03
It took them 18 days to reply to my email, so good luck!

Lol.. Seriously? That's insane.. I saw you can call them too. Maybe should try that

Schnizz58
20-08-2015, 14:17
The response was only a couple of days with me but yeah, I'd call them if that's an option for you.

Silas Andersen
25-08-2015, 08:23
Mine was bricked during the process of updating to latest firmware as well. Wrote Thrustmaster last night:

"I have used the wheel for a couple of years on XBOX 360 and One with Forza, and now project cars. I have been using the F1 rim quite a bit, and recently bought the T3PA and TH8A, which was also working pretty nicely. To get project cars working smoothly, i decided to check for firmware updates, and succesfully updated from 47 to 49. Then i decided to try and update the shifter as well, and now, nothing works.. I left the wheel's usb in the pc, when i tried to update the shifter. I don't know if i was supposed to connect the shifter itself directly to the pc? I tried that afterwards, which made it possible to calibrate and stuff, but the wheel itself still won't show anywhere.. :( Has it maybe tried to install the software for the shifter, on the wheel? I really hope you can help me out, because the whole setup is useless right now..
FYI it still turns from site to side when the power cord is applied. "


I hope it's the cable-thing, cause it didn't work installing from another computer - that one wouldn't recognize it either.. And yes, i have tried all sorts of reboots and looked at device manager and put it in bootloader mode and so on - still nothing.. Already ordered the small bit of the cable, while i'm waiting for answers..

Må TX is working brillanter again now, aften i changed the cable they sent me. It did have to be soldered on though, and i did have to Pay for it myselve.. But then again - i am the one who broke the cable in the First placeret..

oscarolim
25-08-2015, 16:01
Well, for me, it did take some time for the initial reply (my first email was 26th July and their reply was the 12th of August. Then after a couple of emails to send the information requested, it took until the 24th of August (yesterday) to receive a replacement 458 Wheel. So all in all about a month.

AtomicSphincter
26-08-2015, 08:37
I got an e-mail from tech support today saying that they'll be shipping a new base "soon". The wait begins.

RageWorthy
17-01-2016, 16:56
I got an e-mail from tech support today saying that they'll be shipping a new base "soon". The wait begins.


Sorry to bump such an old thread, but my thrustmaster tx wheelbase is doing the same thing. The auto-calibration slams the wheel around instead of calibrating. If I run the motor calibrator, it will fix the wheel temporarily, but as soon as the wheel loses power, the problem comes back. Has anyone solved this without getting an RMA? How easy was it to deal with thrustmaster support?

Innerspace_HQ
18-01-2016, 07:44
Sorry to bump such an old thread, but my thrustmaster tx wheelbase is doing the same thing. The auto-calibration slams the wheel around instead of calibrating. If I run the motor calibrator, it will fix the wheel temporarily, but as soon as the wheel loses power, the problem comes back. Has anyone solved this without getting an RMA? How easy was it to deal with thrustmaster support?

I think TM have improved greatly having read a bit of this thread.

My wheel started doing that slamming to the right thing, motor calibration tool fixed it for a day then same again the following morning. Probably after power off like yours. They replied to my E-Mail within 2 hours and emailed me the print off label within another 5. They repaired the unit and sent it back promptly.

Really easy to deal with contrary to the horror stories on here. Looking at Jim from TM's responses to people's feedback on Amazon (largely same complaints as here) their customer service have had a fire lit under their arse. If I sent it straight away I'd be maybe 10-12 days without a wheel before it arrived home but Christmas got in the way. Works a treat now.

Beltoon
18-01-2016, 08:29
My TX died on me last week. Not that happy about Thrustmaster support. Takes 2 days for them to reply on my messages. Made them a video and gave all the information they need but the wheel is still at my place...

Innerspace_HQ
18-01-2016, 10:03
My TX died on me last week. Not that happy about Thrustmaster support. Takes 2 days for them to reply on my messages. Made them a video and gave all the information they need but the wheel is still at my place...

Possibly a busy day? 2 days for a reply is a pretty standard 48 hour thing - you'll find that with some companies acknowledgements ("We will reply within 48 hours). You'll probably find it's 48 hours from uploading the video, too. I was 5 hours but they might have been sitting twiddling their thumbs. Everybody has quiet days and busy days in the office.

Unless they were particularly rude or unhelpful I don't think there's much to get overly annoyed about. Yet... ;)

AtomicSphincter
19-01-2016, 18:15
Sorry to bump such an old thread, but my thrustmaster tx wheelbase is doing the same thing. The auto-calibration slams the wheel around instead of calibrating. If I run the motor calibrator, it will fix the wheel temporarily, but as soon as the wheel loses power, the problem comes back. Has anyone solved this without getting an RMA? How easy was it to deal with thrustmaster support?

I don't think there's any quick fixes other than the calibration tool. If you still have warranty, send them an e-mail. They'll ask you to take a short video and upload it to their server. Next e-mail will inform you that they are sending you a new unit. That's what happened to me.

Schnizz58
19-01-2016, 19:39
My TX died again the other day. At least I think it died. It is slamming the wheel against the hard stops and never quits. I can talk to it with the updater but the control panel doesn't seem to be receiving any signals from it. What is this motor calibrator tool you guys are talking about? Is that WheelCheck?

STEELJOCKEY
19-01-2016, 22:48
Yes, here it is in post number 1,

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35147-Baseline-Wheel-FFB-Values-Google-Sheet-amp-FCM-Universal&highlight=Wheelcheck

Innerspace_HQ
20-01-2016, 06:29
My TX died again the other day. At least I think it died. It is slamming the wheel against the hard stops and never quits. I can talk to it with the updater but the control panel doesn't seem to be receiving any signals from it. What is this motor calibrator tool you guys are talking about? Is that WheelCheck?

You might find you need to use it on each power up of the wheel. At least I did. Worth a shot, it at least gave me a few hours fun before I ultimately had to get it fixed properly. They didn't send me a new unit, just repaired my current one but added more padding on full left and right rotation. It doesn't crack against the housing as bad any more but that kinda says to me they're expecting it to start failing aggressively again haha.

Hammerpgh
21-01-2016, 15:46
Just wondering whether this problem is the same as one that I am experiencing this past couple of days. Whenever I enter the garage of a session my wheel turns to hard right lock and the only way I can release it is to select drive and then 'return to pits' whereupon it's ok. Last night when I went to the grid for an online race it did the same thing and only released the wheel once the green light came. It's really annoying but more importantly worries me it will damage the wheel if it carries on.

Is this the same thing you guys are finding?

Dan77 DESTROYER
21-01-2016, 18:24
Just wondering whether this problem is the same as one that I am experiencing this past couple of days. Whenever I enter the garage of a session my wheel turns to hard right lock and the only way I can release it is to select drive and then 'return to pits' whereupon it's ok. Last night when I went to the grid for an online race it did the same thing and only released the wheel once the green light came. It's really annoying but more importantly worries me it will damage the wheel if it carries on.

Is this the same thing you guys are finding?

You can turn the wheel stiffness down in the settings for when you are in the menus etc, also sporadically the feedback can become corrupted when returning to the pit garage after being on track during qualifying, simply switch the power off to the wheel and back on again, let it reset and press A which sorts it out,
This can happen when going from qualifying into a race but I've had this happen a couple of times only so far.

Schnizz58
21-01-2016, 18:40
You might find you need to use it on each power up of the wheel. At least I did. Worth a shot, it at least gave me a few hours fun before I ultimately had to get it fixed properly. They didn't send me a new unit, just repaired my current one but added more padding on full left and right rotation. It doesn't crack against the housing as bad any more but that kinda says to me they're expecting it to start failing aggressively again haha.
I tried it but it didn't change the behavior at all. I think it's dead but I'm exchanging emails with Thrustmaster to see if there's any hope.

STEELJOCKEY
21-01-2016, 21:01
If is banging back and forth continuously off the stops and not stopping, I'd say something has given up in the wheel base.

Schnizz58
21-01-2016, 21:14
If is banging back and forth continuously off the stops and not stopping, I'd say something has given up in the wheel base.
Exactly my thought as well. I'm going to send a video to TM and see what they say. It's a year old so I assume no longer under warranty. In my mind I'm already expecting to have to buy a new base.

STEELJOCKEY
21-01-2016, 22:30
I've got a feeling they come with a 2 year warranty

Schnizz58
21-01-2016, 22:43
That would be nice.

STEELJOCKEY
21-01-2016, 23:31
I've just looked at my local importer, and only 12 months warranty. However, when my rim rubber started coming off at almost 2yrs old, they replaced for free. You can only ask and see what they offer.

Schnizz58
22-01-2016, 00:25
Just looked at the invoice from when I ordered it. Jan 15, 2015. But can't hurt to ask.

RacerPaul65
22-01-2016, 05:16
those TX ffb wheels sound a bit iffy to me. i'll go Logitech if I ever get a ffb wheel

Dan77 DESTROYER
22-01-2016, 13:58
those TX ffb wheels sound a bit iffy to me. i'll go Logitech if I ever get a ffb wheel

Had my TX nearly a year now and I've never had any problems with it.

nissan4ever
22-01-2016, 14:04
those TX ffb wheels sound a bit iffy to me. i'll go Logitech if I ever get a ffb wheel

I've had my TX for 2 years and 2 months (launch batch, at that). No problems.

STEELJOCKEY
22-01-2016, 22:03
I've had my TX for 2 years and 2 months (launch batch, at that). No problems.

I've got the same here, bought about September 2013, still hasn't missed a beat. Driven so hard the rubber came off the rim last July, and importer swapped my rim for a brand new one no charge.

Schnizz58
22-01-2016, 22:11
Had my TX nearly a year now and I've never had any problems with it.


I've had my TX for 2 years and 2 months (launch batch, at that). No problems.

Guess I must just be imagining it then.

STEELJOCKEY
22-01-2016, 22:58
There was a bad batch in the middle, mid early last year there was a really bad batch that were lucky to survive box opening. Latest ones are much better I hear

RageWorthy
23-01-2016, 00:50
I just purchased my TX from craigslist last week. It was sold new in apr 2015 and it was indeed a bad batch. This model has the internal power supply and it didn't last more than two days in my hands. When I called thrustmaster for support, I opened the conversation with "my wheel is slamming around" and she cut me off to say "OH! Do you have the thrustmaster tx?" so they knew EXACTLY what I was seeing. I was asked to send them a video of the failure, and a proof of purchase, and the serial number from the wheel. Two days after I provided all of that I got a shipping confirmation from thrustmaster that says a new wheelbase is on the way, and all I need to do is cut the USB cable from the dead wheelbase and send them a picture. I managed to get the wheelbase for only $160 used so I'm happy to get a warranty replacement for a newer model, and have this dead wheelbase for spare parts! I have a background in electronics repair so after cutting the cord for the picture, I will solder a new cord and then attempt to diagnose this calibration problem. If I can identify the failed component, and successfully replace it, I'll write a complete repair tutorial for those of you without a warranty. I've read elsewhere that the power supply is providing too much voltage, and I believe that because when the calibration is acting up, there is a LOT of "coil whine" coming from inside the base. Wish me luck, I might end up with two working tx wheelbases for $160. :)

Dan77 DESTROYER
23-01-2016, 03:44
Guess I must just be imagining it then.

Imagining what?

I was simply commenting on racerpauls post

nissan4ever
23-01-2016, 04:15
Guess I must just be imagining it then.

LOL, I'm responding to the guy who said Thrustmaster TX are iffy.

nissan4ever
23-01-2016, 04:16
bought about September 2013,

It was released in November 2013 :)
When Xbox One was released.

STEELJOCKEY
23-01-2016, 06:38
It was released in November 2013 :)
When Xbox One was released.
Lol I said about September. I'm getting too old to remember exactly when

nissan4ever
23-01-2016, 09:00
Lol I said about September. I'm getting too old to remember exactly when

You know I had to poke fun at you ;)

AtomicSphincter
25-01-2016, 03:36
those TX ffb wheels sound a bit iffy to me. i'll go Logitech if I ever get a ffb wheel
If you want to pay $400 for a repackaged G27, go for it, enjoy the outdated gear tech with dead center play. G27 were good back in the day, now they're just dinosaurs. Brushless motor tech is the way to go.

moustace
25-01-2016, 09:15
Anyone else getting the buttons mixed up in the menus? Happens sometimes with my tx wheel, and only in project cars. Only in the menus it seems, typically my right gear shifter (which is used to go right in the menus), say I want to navigate from the start menu to the second menu (tune car/options), when I click my right gear shifter i end up in "quick race" menu.

Reinart86
28-01-2016, 16:11
Does anyone know how long it takes for Thrustmaster to get you your wheel back from repairs?

RageWorthy
28-01-2016, 19:19
Does anyone know how long it takes for Thrustmaster to get you your wheel back from repairs?

I'm dealing with this process right now. My initial support call was on the 18th. I sent them all required information on the same day. I got the next response on the 21st saying that my RMA had been approved. Today is the 28th and I have not received another response from them so I called. The person I reached on the phone today was very nice and told me that he was surprised it was taking this long, and that my wheel should be shipped by now, and I should expect to "have it in your hands next week".

edit: I recieved the wheelbase on the 1st of febuary. that is 15 days total, 10 working days total from the first call. Unfortunately I received the "internal power supply" version, known to be the cause of much trouble! I have contacted them for a proper replacement with the upgraded external power supply. I hope this works!

BigDad
14-02-2016, 00:32
Does anyone know how long it takes for Thrustmaster to get you your wheel back from repairs?
It will get lost or stolen in transit . Ha

RageWorthy
18-02-2016, 00:26
It will get lost or stolen in transit . Ha

Um wat?

Literally never heard someone complain about that. Mine took 10 working days total.

Schnizz58
22-02-2016, 14:24
Update on my latest problem. First of all, the big delay is my fault. I was pretty slack getting them a video of the symptoms, mainly because I figured it was out of warranty by a few days and that I'd have to buy an new one anyway. And I was out of town a good bit over the last month or so. But to my surprise, when I sent them the video they told me to ship it back and they'd repair it. Then, the next day, even more surprisingly they countermanded that directive and said that they'd just ship me a new one if I would cut the USB cable on the old base and send them a picture of it. So looks like I'll be back on the road in the reasonably near future.

nissan4ever
22-02-2016, 18:05
Good to hear schnizz58 :)

Schnizz58
25-02-2016, 21:04
Took less time than I imagined. A box from Guillemot just landed on my desk here at work.

nissan4ever
26-02-2016, 01:04
Took less time than I imagined. A box from Guillemot just landed on my desk here at work.

Hopefully you'll get years of trouble free service out of this new base.

Schnizz58
26-02-2016, 14:09
Hopefully you'll get years of trouble free service out of this new base.
Thanks, hope so too. Ran some laps last night. Had to re-learn how to drive but the new wheel seems fine. I noticed that the fan is a lot less noisy in this new one; it was pretty loud in the old one.