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Dents27
08-07-2015, 00:44
Hi guys,

Just wondering if anyone else has experience this with the T300RS. I'm in the Euro Endurance championship and about 30 minutes into the race my ff. started to fade a lot and the steering became very clunky and hard to turn the car at high speeds. It was not smooth at all, and every 5 degrees it would "click" into a spot sort of idea. I tried contacting Thrustmaster but they are no help so far. It has been updated with v24. Is it an issue with the wheel itself or with Project CARS not sending any information to it. Definitely worse since updating the game with patch 2.0!

Any insights will be greatly appreciated.

Dents27

h.greenjr2
08-07-2015, 03:55
Yes thrustmaster is horrible with direct answers, but no it's the wheel not the game! If your FFB settings are set high to where its stronger than normal, the V24 update was designed to turn the fan on when the motor gets hot to protect it from damage, however even it being lower to near factory settings it gets hot to quick, I took my T300 apart and noticed that their is one small 12v fan to blow cool air to one side of the motor (1) when technically there opt to be two or a more powerful fan to cool the motor and it should be at all times! It's really a inconvience when your racing for more than 1hr and u lose all or some FFB it makes it disappointing to finish the race!! Thrustmaster needs a newer software update to allow the fans to kick on sooner before the motor is warm. Consistency is the problem as well as quality.

Dents27
08-07-2015, 17:22
Thanks for your help. My FFB settings are the ones that were posted here in the forums being the optimal/most realistic ones. I also changed the car FFB settings to those of James Spade. I contacted Thrustmaster today, I will try their "recalibration" tool and if that doesn't work I will contacts SMS directly.

watchumacallit
08-07-2015, 17:23
I modded my wheel. Upgraded to a bigger fan from the 60mm to a 80mm fan. Also drilled holes on top of the base where the fake vents are with a small drill bit. Added two 2" holes on the side where the motor is at and added a screen to prevent anything from falling in. Definitely better air circulation and cooling inside the wheel. I can play for hours without any issues. The only issue now is that the warranty is voided.

Dents27
08-07-2015, 17:37
I personally don't want to void the warranty on the wheel. It seems that I can only play for a maximum 30 mins before all FFB goes to shit so its definitely a cooling issue (since I feel the heat and hear the fans spinning endlessly).

watchumacallit
08-07-2015, 18:46
I understand, Thrustmaster should of done a better job on cooling the motor. If you ever see the stock 60mm fan you'll c why I replaced it. That thing is tiny and hardly moves any air at all!

Dents27
08-07-2015, 19:19
Yeah I agree. But every manufacturer decides to cut costs somewhere in order to turn a bigger profit.

Fight-Test
08-07-2015, 19:27
dents, Make sure you didnt plug the wheel in after you started the game. Always before. Make sure you tire force isnt the culprit. Turn it down some and see if it helps. Reset all your controls. Then start over with tunes and settings. Try that last of course. I can race all day and my fan never really comes on much so make sure your in cool spot. I have had no issues with the ffb and I race about 5 to 6 hours a night. Work/Race/Sleep kinda thing right now. You dont need to take anything apart although I like that idea for cooling, but not having issues so Ill hold up on that. You have already updated so my guess is that its your global settings. Its been the big issue for most wheel users as they love to crank up the ffb.

Idk why you guys are having issues with thrustmaster service. Did you guys call? they pick the phone right up and answer anything you need. The lady that helped me when my brake pedal stopped had me working (I was trying to put a load cell in) before I was off phone. In my case I had to redo the driver or firmware (dont remember which) because the wheel stopped talking to brake and thats what she said it was before I even fixed it. Never email if they give you a phone number. Be polite and to the point and they will get you hooked up.

Most people are not having issues and why you only see a few post about the wheel but most are related to user issue (you sound like you know what your doing unless your plugging in your wheel at incorrect time), Driver/firmware which you did or just a bunk wheel.

LordDRIFT
08-07-2015, 19:38
Its not just the size of the fan , there is no ducting to direct and control airflow , and the ventilation it self is a sad joke. All the fan serves to do is turn the case into a convection oven. There is no efficient route to pull in cool air and expel hot air. TM cuts costs everywhere with the t300 . Very shoddy construction.

PS when my wheel started losing FFB it eventually died completely within a week.

watchumacallit
08-07-2015, 20:36
Its not just the size of the fan , there is no ducting to direct and control airflow , and the ventilation it self is a sad joke. All the fan serves to do is turn the case into a convection oven. There is no efficient route to pull in cool air and expel hot air. TM cuts costs everywhere with the t300 . Very shoddy construction.

PS when my wheel started losing FFB it eventually died completely within a week.

That is true. With the vents on top of the base and the two extra vents on the side, the air flow is much better. Air sucked in from the top and expelled from the side. I guess i just like to mod things, hehe.

Fight-Test
08-07-2015, 20:47
watch, did you happen to take any pics while doing it?

watchumacallit
08-07-2015, 20:59
watch, did you happen to take any pics while doing it?

No, but i can post pics of how the outside of my wheel base looks like. I'll also post pics of the original fan and the fan i replaced it with. Will do it when i get home.

Fight-Test
08-07-2015, 21:13
yea that would be cool if you get the time.

watchumacallit
09-07-2015, 00:38
@Fight- Test
The fan replacement procedure I followed from one of the guys @ ISR forum. I don't want to take credit on somebody else's idea, I just simply followed his instruction here:
http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/13161-thrustmaster-tx-fan-replacement/

Stock fan on left and replacement fan on right.
211199

Top of the base with drilled vents
211200211201

Vents on side
211202211203

My PVC DIY sim rig where all the fun happens.
211204211205

Fre.Mo
09-07-2015, 13:39
what a great rig watchumacallit, are these metal or plastic tubes?

rocafella1978
09-07-2015, 13:47
and also what I have followed in some German speaking forums, T300 has wobble and wiggle issue randomly with some users still after 2.0 patch and overheating issue going on with guys making their own inventions on how to cool it with FANs and holes and ducts (pushing air) sad to see that stuff...shame on you Thrustmaster as a company...

LordDRIFT
09-07-2015, 14:19
Ive been meaning to duct mine similar to yours but haven't got around to doing it. Im probably going to do it on my vacation next week. Do you mid sharing purchase info on the fan?

nvm saw the link.

watchumacallit
09-07-2015, 15:02
what a great rig watchumacallit, are these metal or plastic tubes?

Thanks! It's plastic 2" PVC pipes. It's pretty damn solid, i thought i will have problems but 3 months in and still no issues. If you have the budget and welding skills metal tubes will be the best, IMO.

watchumacallit
09-07-2015, 15:22
Ive been meaning to duct mine similar to yours but haven't got around to doing it. Im probably going to do it on my vacation next week. Do you mid sharing purchase info on the fan?

nvm saw the link.

just a heads up, u will void the warranty. I didnt mind as i can play for hours now w/o any issues and will probably prolong the life of the motor too.

LordDRIFT
09-07-2015, 15:34
just a heads up, u will void the warranty. I didnt mind as i can play for hours now w/o any issues and will probably prolong the life of the motor too.

I know. I have a dead unit so I can always switch covers.

Fight-Test
09-07-2015, 16:26
dents, I think I experienced your problem yesterday. So i hadnt reset my settings in ffb since the game came out. patch 1.4 i felt no difference and 2.0 i felt no difference. I was ok with that as my wheel was feeling good and I was fast. I saw that guys were having to reset to get the new ffb settings so I tried it last night. I went back after and put all my original settings back in and went into a race. During practice the wheel felt a good bit stronger and I had tire force at 100 so I knew from other guys that I might have turn this down but started at 100 anyway. I then went into race and first corner I feel like a grinding/clipping feeling. I then exit the lobby and turn down tire force as I think this is the issue. So then the car is way to weak on ffb but no weird feeling in corners but something is off. So then I restart the game and its a different animal. The wheel feels great and no issues. I was able to turn wheel force up to 92 and that returned the same strength I had in wheel before. 100 was a little to much. I do have a much better feel in the wheel now.

My guess is that the 2.0 update buggers this up a bit and you need to restart game after you reset your controls. Idk if you had recently reset your settings or possibly this was your first time racing after 2.0 when you had your issue. Did you issues go away the next time you played?

LordDRIFT
09-07-2015, 20:25
The grinding clicking issue is intermittent. . When it happens the graph goes crazy. This has been happening since 1.4. But whatever they did in 2.0 is really horrible.

watchumacallit
09-07-2015, 21:02
Does this happen right before the FFB fades?

LordDRIFT
09-07-2015, 21:23
Independently. It's software induced not mechanical. I suspect it's different from what you are experiencing. I've never had it happen mid race.