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therealzissou
13-07-2015, 21:08
I've been absolutely loving project cars so much so that I ended up getting rid of my wheel stand and building a complete cockpit, custom suede wheel and spending most of my free time racing.

Today however my fun has ended...

Was racing with friends online last night and all of a sudden the ffb felt really strange and light. Mostly in the corners. The ffb display in telemetry was going nuts as well. I thought this was something game related but the problems were also there on AC on PC. Now the wheel won't even calibrate, just keeps spinning to the right and violently hitting the stop. I can get it to work if I have the wheel all the way to the left but the problems with the ffb are still there.

I've literally spent all day trying to fix it to no avail. Reinstalled the firmware, pc drivers, even opened it up but no obvious signs of anything wrong. And on top of that i must have read about 1000 forum threads...

Sadly though, I bought the wheel used on eBay so RMA isn't an option. Ive had it for about 4 months and its worked flawlessly up until now.

If anyone has any suggestions, anything at all! That would be much appreciated. (i feel like I've lost my livelihood haha)

Steve

theequalizer33
13-07-2015, 21:25
Wounded! Sounds bad man .. Sounds like u may just have to get another wheel. Get it somehow repaired later...

therealzissou
13-07-2015, 21:33
Yeh man I'm gutted... I think you're right. That's if i can find one in stock! Don't think i'll be buying used again just in case.

MrFlibble81
13-07-2015, 21:36
You could try calling the manufacturer. There's a chance that it's not that old and still under their warranty. They'll be able to tell all of that from the serial number etc.

Worse thing they can tell you is that there's nothing they can do so you got nothing to lose.

Spirit X
13-07-2015, 21:52
Also, it might be worth getting the calibration app from Thrustmaster. They sent me a link to it when I emailed support (although I have since deleted the email, sorry). It's just a little exe file you can use when the wheel is plugged into your computer that will fix the non-calibration issue. Worth a try perhaps.

Good luck.

JoeDogs
13-07-2015, 21:57
Dont buy T300 next time! Go for T500. Sorry for you! :((( Mine frends T300 weel Broke to..

jason
13-07-2015, 22:15
Must admit that the t500 is one solid bit of kit

therealzissou
13-07-2015, 22:18
Thanks for the suggestions, I think I'll contact support and see what happens then. Like you said, all they can say is no. And I've been searching for that calibration exe all day but no luck. Hopefully thrustmaster well send me the link.



Dont buy T300 next time! Go for T500. Sorry for you! :((( Mine frends T300 weel Broke to..

Yeh... I am a bit nervous about buying another t300 :(. Maybe the t500 is the way to go... If the wheel truly is dead, a used t500 base would probably be my cheapest option.

therealzissou
13-07-2015, 22:21
Must admit that the t500 is one solid bit of kit


Yeh, I'm leaning more and more towards getting a t500 instead. I've tried it briefly on PC before but not PS4. I'm guessing it works pretty well with Project Cars?

JoeDogs
13-07-2015, 22:34
http://thrustmaster-calibration-tool.software.informer.com

JoeDogs
13-07-2015, 22:37
Yes it do!

therealzissou
13-07-2015, 22:55
http://thrustmaster-calibration-tool.software.informer.com

Thanks man! Sadly though, it hasn't made any difference... :(

wyldanimal
14-07-2015, 02:51
Maybe time to Switch to Fanatec or Logitech..

Fanatec is cheaper than T500 and Better Built.

$199.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/racing-wheels/forza-motorsport-csr-wheel-us.html

$79.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/pedals/csr-pedals-us.html

$59.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/shifters/csr-shifter-set-us.html

nice wheel, pedals and shifter for about $340.00

therealzissou
14-07-2015, 09:56
Maybe time to Switch to Fanatec or Logitech..

Fanatec is cheaper than T500 and Better Built.

$199.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/racing-wheels/forza-motorsport-csr-wheel-us.html

$79.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/pedals/csr-pedals-us.html

$59.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/shifters/csr-shifter-set-us.html

nice wheel, pedals and shifter for about $340.00

Thanks for the suggestions. I owned a g25 for 5 years and that done me well but I don't think I go back after the t300; the g29 looks to be more or less the same. I'm still using g25 pedals with the t300 with richmotech adapter and I also have a Th8a and a modded GTE rim that i'd certainly want to keep. I'd only switch to fanatec If I could afford a full clubsport setup... And I'm in the UK and Fanatec's prices here are a good bit higher that in the US.

chickano
14-07-2015, 14:32
The same thing happened to my T300 man. I'm currently waiting for Thrustmaster to send me a box to ship the wheel base back to them, after having tried everything else. I had to send them a vdeo of the mis calibration, a receipt and a photo of the serial number.

therealzissou
14-07-2015, 14:57
The same thing happened to my T300 man. I'm currently waiting for Thrustmaster to send me a box to ship the wheel base back to them, after having tried everything else. I had to send them a vdeo of the mis calibration, a receipt and a photo of the serial number.

Ah that sucks for you too man. That's pretty much what I feared. Everyone I've read having the same issues ended up sending their wheel to thrustmaster. It's a real shame as I absolutely loved the wheel but there does seem to be quite a high failure rate so getting another makes me very nervous. And its not just the cost but it's pretty crap being without a wheel. To make matters worse my girlfriend has gone away for a week and I'm off work. Had fully intended to play project cars without any distractions! Gutted. Anyways, hope your new wheel doesn't take too long and you don't have any more issues.

svenvangent
14-07-2015, 22:11
Woooooo you make me frightenend , I have also a T300 RS TM (2 month old/new ) .
And....about your friends wheel (T300) this happened because he played Projectcars ?
Must say that when may wheel calibrate ( first to the left than to the right ) it gets a reasonable hard hit at the end of the calibration turn .
Don't like it .

therealzissou
14-07-2015, 22:56
Woooooo you make me frightenend , I have also a T300 RS TM (2 month old/new ) .
And....about your friends wheel (T300) this happened because he played Projectcars ?
Must say that when may wheel calibrate ( first to the left than to the right ) it gets a reasonable hard hit at the end of the calibration turn .
Don't like it .

I'd say not to worry and just enjoy using your wheel mate. I'm definitely reluctant about getting another t300 just cause mine failed; but that of course that doesn't mean yours will and there's plenty of people on the forums with no problems at all. I don't think wheel failures would be caused by project cars but then again I've never had a single issue on the PC with assetto corsa or Iracing and since day one i've had several wheel related problems with project cars on the PS4... As for your calibration, that sounds pretty normal to me. Mine was like that and so are a couple of friends who both have the t300.

LordDRIFT
14-07-2015, 23:31
They wont warranty a purchase through ebay. Been there done that - same issue as you.

therealzissou
14-07-2015, 23:40
Yeh man thought as much. Bought it in February for £190 delivered. Thought that was a sweet deal... Guess buying new is the safest option.

madmax2069
15-07-2015, 00:51
Maybe time to Switch to Fanatec or Logitech..

Fanatec is cheaper than T500 and Better Built.

$199.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/racing-wheels/forza-motorsport-csr-wheel-us.html

$79.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/pedals/csr-pedals-us.html

$59.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/shifters/csr-shifter-set-us.html

nice wheel, pedals and shifter for about $340.00

When you tack on the shipping price it makes it around the same.

wyldanimal
16-07-2015, 06:45
Maybe time to Switch to Fanatec or Logitech..

Fanatec is cheaper than T500 and Better Built.

$199.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/racing-wheels/forza-motorsport-csr-wheel-us.html

$79.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/pedals/csr-pedals-us.html

$59.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/shifters/csr-shifter-set-us.html

nice wheel, pedals and shifter for about $340.00


When you tack on the shipping price it makes it around the same.

Scratching My Head???

all wheels technically will have Shipping... So I don't quite Understand what you are saying?

you're saying that:
a $600.00 wheel + $50.00 for shipping
is around the same as
a $340.00 wheel + $50.00 shipping
???

in my book, it's still $600.00 vs $340.00

And the T500 Doesn't have a shifter, so add on the TH8A and now your At $720.00


even if you were talking about the T300 or G29 for $400

They Too still have their Own Shipping..

for the T300, don't forget to Add The T3PA PRO Pedals 149.99 and the TH8A shifter
that brings you to $680.00

and the G29, you have to add the Shifter 59.99
and that brings yo to $460.00

so you have the Fanatec setup for $340.00

or the G29 with Shifter for $460.00

Or the T300 with T3PA-pro and Th8A shifter $680.00

or the T500 and Shifter for $720.00

they all have shipping...

madmax2069
16-07-2015, 06:53
Scratching My Head???

all wheels technically will have Shipping... So I don't quite Understand what you are saying?

you're saying that:
a $600.00 wheel + $50.00 for shipping
is around the same as
a $340.00 wheel + $50.00 shipping
???

in my book, it's still $600.00 vs $340.00

And the T500 Doesn't have a shifter, so add on the TH8A and now your At $720.00


even if you were talking about the T300 or G29 for $400

They Too still have their Own Shipping..

for the T300, don't forget to Add The T3PA PRO Pedals 149.99 and the TH8A shifter
that brings you to $680.00

and the G29, you have to add the Shifter 59.99
and that brings yo to $460.00

so you have the Fanatec setup for $340.00

or the G29 with Shifter for $460.00

Or the T300 with T3PA-pro and Th8A shifter $680.00

or the T500 and Shifter for $720.00

they all have shipping...

I for some reason seen T300 instead of T500. But things tend to not have shipping when/if you can find them locally. I haven't seen any fanatec wheels locally ever, i have seen Thrustmaster and Logitech locally.

Sankyo
16-07-2015, 07:11
When you bought the wheel on Ebay, did you also get/ask the original purchase receipt? If you have that, maybe Thrustmaster will give warrenty. Fanatec does ;)

F1Aussie
16-07-2015, 08:38
Don't you need the gazillion dollar wheel base for fanatec to work? I think around $900 aussie bucks just for the fricken base, more like at least $1500 for fanatec once you get wheel, pedals and shifter!

therealzissou
16-07-2015, 14:51
Surely a Fanatec CSR setup would be a downgrade from my current T300 setup? Yes, of course a full CSR setup would potentially be cheaper but in my case I've already invested in a Thrustmaster setup and I do love my custom wheel and TH8A... I certainly wouldn't want to lose those.


When you bought the wheel on Ebay, did you also get/ask the original purchase receipt? If you have that, maybe Thrustmaster will give warrenty. Fanatec does ;)

Yeh I was thinking about this but I'm pretty sure Thrustmaster don't allow you to transfer it like Fanatic do... And I don't have the receipt anyway.

Yeh F1Aussie, the full clubsport setup works out at a good bit over a grand in the UK. Definitely out of my budget...

Edit: Wrong quote.

Sankyo
16-07-2015, 14:56
Don't you need the gazillion dollar wheel base for fanatec to work? I think around $900 aussie bucks just for the fricken base, more like at least $1500 for fanatec once you get wheel, pedals and shifter!
It's not about pricing, value for money etc., just about transferring warranty :)

therealzissou
16-07-2015, 15:01
It's not about pricing, value for money etc., just about transferring warranty :)

Yeh, Fanatic are one of the few companies that do this I think. Logitech certainly don't and neither do sony (I've tried :() But I guess you get what you pay for. Perhaps I'll make the switch in a few years; need to finish university first haha!

Spitfire77
16-07-2015, 23:28
When you bought the wheel on Ebay, did you also get/ask the original purchase receipt? If you have that, maybe Thrustmaster will give warrenty. Fanatec does ;)

Thrustmaster does not warranty wheels bought from ebay as it is considered an auction, basically the warranty is given to the person who purchased the item and then it can not be transferred. Sellers on Ebay are not considered an authorized retailer. Many electronics companies selling items in the USA follow this same rule.

In the T300 manual
" (6) if the
product was sold at public auction.
This warranty is nontransferable. "

wyldanimal
17-07-2015, 06:27
Humm,

Was just reading some of the Thrustmaster FAQ's

Hadn't seen this one before..
If your FFB is too strong, the Wheel Automatically Cuts it off.
And it could take as much as 45 minutes to Cool down...
( So Never turn off the Power if the Fan is still running. )

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00156.pdf

NOTE REGARDING COOLING FAN OPERATION AND MOTOR COOLING
 The wheel’s cooling system is composed of a heat sink and a fan.
 A thermostat monitors the wheel’s internal temperature.
 When you are using the wheel in a game:
- The cooling fan starts up when the wheel has reached a certain temperature.
(= after a few minutes of gameplay, depending on the strength of the Force Feedback effects used)
- The power of the Force Feedback effects automatically decreases as soon as the wheel
reaches a much higher temperature level (to protect the motor). The power of these effects
automatically increases as soon as the temperature slightly decreases.
 When you’re done playing: due to the motor’s thermal inertia, the cooling fan continues to
operate until the temperature drops below the fan’s startup level. Your wheel has been
designed in this way in order to facilitate cooling, and to protect the motor.
(= this may take from 5 to 45 minutes, depending on the temperature reached while using the wheel in a
game)

spidey11
19-07-2015, 03:20
Anyone sorted out a cooling solution that doesn't void the warranty? Small desk fan? Lower ffb to certain value?

therealzissou
24-07-2015, 11:20
Ok folks here's a quick update on my situation!

So, after pretty much accepting that my T300 had died I went ahead and bought another one. Last Friday I checked amazon and randomly 5 T300s appeared in stock on the market place for £225, the cheapest I've seen so far new. The amazon direct price is £300 so this was a good bargain me thinks :).

Anyway, I finally received a reply from Thrustmaster support yesterday (I sent a message just after my original post) with a link to download a calibration tool. This one was different from the one before that i used. Here you had to remove the rim while the software ran through the calibration process. And you'll never guess what?! It works! I've been testing it all last night and again this morning and everything is running smoothly just as it should.

Hopefully this should be of help to others with this problem. I'm currently deciding whether to keep it as a spare or sell it on, though I wouldn't like to sell to someone for it to break on them. I'll give it a few more weeks and see if the original problem returns...

EDIT: I spoke too soon! the problem just returned :( Guess buying a new wheel was the right move after all...

LordDRIFT
24-07-2015, 13:49
Garbage product.

therealzissou
24-07-2015, 14:25
Garbage product.

When it works it's a great wheel. I wouldn't go back to my old g27 now. Sadly there's not many other options in the £200-£250 price range. The t500 is currently £400 on amazon, almost double what i paid for the T300 and the price of the G29 is just ridiculous for an almost 10year old product. The thrustmaster add ons are also much better imo: Th8a is leagues above the logitech shifter and the ability to change rims (and how simple it is to attach aftermarket rims) makes the Thrustmaster system a much better package overall...

I do agree that reliability and build quality is an issue here but there's plenty of people with no problems at all. Also, there's a fair amount of people having issues with fanatic products on other sim racing forums etc.

Yes i got burned and lost money buying the T300 but in my opinion it really is a cracking wheel for the price and I certainly wouldn't say it's garbage.

Flaw3dGenius
24-07-2015, 14:30
My 3 month old T300 is starting to make strange noises, Almost a faint metal on metal scrapping sound and a clciking noise near the centre! Cheap chinese rubbish! Will never be buying a Thrustmaster product again!

LordDRIFT
24-07-2015, 16:12
When it works it's a great wheel. I wouldn't go back to my old g27 now. Sadly there's not many other options in the £200-£250 price range. The t500 is currently £400 on amazon, almost double what i paid for the T300 and the price of the G29 is just ridiculous for an almost 10year old product. The thrustmaster add ons are also much better imo: Th8a is leagues above the logitech shifter and the ability to change rims (and how simple it is to attach aftermarket rims) makes the Thrustmaster system a much better package overall...

I do agree that reliability and build quality is an issue here but there's plenty of people with no problems at all. Also, there's a fair amount of people having issues with fanatic products on other sim racing forums etc.

Yes i got burned and lost money buying the T300 but in my opinion it really is a cracking wheel for the price and I certainly wouldn't say it's garbage.

Its garbage. Go ahead crack it open and take a look. Very poor build quality. The inards of the pedal box are especially a joke. I'm on my second one and cringe every time it auto calibrates. I keep waiting for it to blow itself apart. Is this the precedent we as consumers are willing to accept? "Its great when it works". Sadly , I find myself uttering those same words in regards to Pcars. Sad f*****g story.

LordDRIFT
24-07-2015, 16:15
My 3 month old T300 is starting to make strange noises, Almost a faint metal on metal scrapping sound and a clciking noise near the centre! Cheap chinese rubbish! Will never be buying a Thrustmaster product again!

I caved and bought a second because the Logitech was not out yet and fanatec (whose ps4 compatibility is not guaranteed) wanted me to beg them to take my money. "Invitation only". Get the $&*! outta here.

Racer Pro
24-07-2015, 16:16
Its garbage. Go ahead crack it open and take a look. Very poor build quality. The inards of the pedal box are especially a joke. I'm on my second one and cringe every time it auto calibrates. I keep waiting for it to blow itself apart. Is this the precedent we as consumers are willing to accept? "Its great when it works". Sadly , I find myself uttering those same words in regards to Pcars. Sad fucking story.ok but what is the best wheel for ps4 well made and never broke ?

Ajnn
24-07-2015, 16:17
My 3 month old T300 is starting to make strange noises, Almost a faint metal on metal scrapping sound and a clciking noise near the centre! Cheap chinese rubbish! Will never be buying a Thrustmaster product again!

I have the same problem (only when driving in my case)

LordDRIFT
24-07-2015, 16:21
ok but what is the best wheel for ps4 well made and never broke ?

I don't think im qualified to answer that. And im pretty sure the ps4 only has 3 licensed wheels. 1 has no ffb and 1 is a few weeks old (depending on how you look at it ;)). The other is a time bomb.

Racer Pro
24-07-2015, 16:24
I don't understand the question - especially in relation to my comment (if it is related).you say the t300 is not a good wheel ok but what is the best wheel for ps4 ? its simple dude.

LordDRIFT
24-07-2015, 16:30
you say the t300 is not a good wheel ok but what is the best wheel for ps4 ? its simple dude.

Previous post edited. I figured out what you were asking. I said the build quality was no good. There is no dispute on performance which has been mentioned a few times in the thread.

Ajnn
24-07-2015, 16:33
you say the t300 is not a good wheel ok but what is the best wheel for ps4 ? its simple dude.

The T300RS is a good wheel.... very good indeed, but the wheel have many working problems. I´m waiting for my third T300RS in 9 months and the big problem is that TM support does not exist.I think the TM support only work in that countrys when they have their offices.

Racer Pro
24-07-2015, 16:38
The T300RS is a good wheel.... very good indeed, but the wheel have many working problems. I´m waiting for my third T300RS in 9 months and the big problem is that TM support does not exist.I think the TM support only work in that countrys when they have their offices.
3 t300rs in 9 months wtf, ok thanks dude i never buy this pice of crap, you save me lot of money dude thanks again.

LordDRIFT
24-07-2015, 16:40
3 t300rs in 9 months wtf, ok thanks dude i never buy this pice of crap, you save me lot of money dude thanks again.

If mine blows im getting the Logitech. Hopefully it lasts until they cut their prices - which they will.

Roger Prynne
24-07-2015, 17:15
@ LordDRIFT
Please refrain from swearing mate, you know the rules.
Post #36
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?34895-I-think-my-T300-has-died&p=1062045&viewfull=1#post1062045

Mr.Smoke
24-07-2015, 17:48
After breaking my T100 pedals (which are essentially the same as T300 ones) and having to chase TM daily for answers, i decided to do away with TM & their cheaply built, overpriced products. Bit the bullet & bought the G29 and couldnt be happier. Truly feels like a top notch, quality product.

To each their own though.

LordDRIFT
24-07-2015, 19:58
@ LordDRIFT
Please refrain from swearing mate, you know the rules.
Post #36
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?34895-I-think-my-T300-has-died&p=1062045&viewfull=1#post1062045

But i'm in love with the cocoa.

wyldanimal
24-07-2015, 23:28
I've had my T300 since November 2014.
got it in Anticipation of Drive Club and pCars being PS4 launch titles.

But since that didn't happen I used it on GT6

Out of the Box my Brake Pedal was non functional..
Thrustmaster wanted me to send them back, and wait for them to repair / replace them...

What I just Waited how Long to get this Wheel, and Now you want me to Send it back..

So I opened them up and fixed them.

I hated how the Wheel felt. Not the FFb but the Rubber coating, the poor button distance...
Wasn't as good as my old G27..

Strength of the wheel.. Is Good.. Maybe a bit better then the G27.
Quality about the FFB, ( What you feel in your finger tips, can sense from the car / road )
I'd say about the same... Maybe my G27 is a bit better ( or maybe I am just use to the G27 more )

Now with pCars I have an Issue that after 15 to 30 minutes of Use, my Wheel gets loud, you can Feel and Hear Thud Thud thud thud as it turns
and the FFB almost dies off..

Several calls to thrustmaster ( mine is past the Initial limited warranty period of 90 days I'm told. Manufactures Defects only )
they send me some software to run on the PC..
My wheel passes this..
another Software, this time Run it with Out the Wheel on the HUB.
It Passes.

So Thrustmaster tells me There is nothing wrong with my wheel..
But still Goes Thud thud thud thud...

The tell me to read a FAQ about the motor gets hot and FFB is cut off.

They tell me this is normal, and How they designed the wheel to protect itself..

Then they say, I can send it back to them, and Pay Shipping both ways, and if they find anything, I'll have to pay for the repair or Replacement.

they Make you (1) Prove to them that their is a Problem, and all along they Deny it's broken.
Send you Software that maybe temporarily Masks the problem, but it comes right back..

The Warranty is for Manufacturing Defects..
It's not a Full Warranty on the functionality of the wheel.. Only if it's Physically Defective.

But the Thud thud thud thud, is not considered a manufacturing Defect it's a Usage issue..
My Wheel is Getting too hot.. and that's not a defect, and it's not covered by warranty..

So don't use it so long,
reduce the FFB settings to extend the Use time..
or Stop using it and let it cool down..

almost lasted 9 months...

Lasted two months with pCars..

And NO, I don't blame pCars at all..
the Wheel should not be capable of Self destruction.

If a Game send FFB at 100%, the Wheel should be able to handle 100% all Day long..
With t300, this is not the case..

read it for yourself.. Please do.. read it twice, three times...
Direct from Thrustmaster ...
They Know it...

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00156.pdf

read the warranty...

Guillemot disclaims all warranties of
merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. The consumer’s legal rights with respect to laws
applicable to the sale of consumer goods are not affected by this warranty.
This warranty shall not apply: (1) if the product has been modified, opened, altered, or has suffered
damage as a result of inappropriate or abusive use, negligence, an accident, normal wear, or any
other cause unrelated to a material or manufacturing defect (including, but not limited to, combining
the Thrustmaster product with any unsuitable element, including in particular power supplies,
rechargeable batteries, chargers, or any other elements not supplied by Guillemot for this product);
(2) in the event of failure to comply with the instructions provided by Technical Support; (3) to
software, said software being subject to a specific warranty; (4) to consumables (elements to be
replaced over the product’s lifespan: disposable batteries, audio headset or headphone ear pads, for
example); (5) to accessories (cables, cases, pouches, bags, wrist-straps, for example); (6) if the
product was sold at public auction.
This warranty is nontransferable.

Guillemot and its subsidiaries disclaim all liability for any damages
unrelated to a material or manufacturing defect with respect to the product (including, but not limited
to, any damages caused directly or indirectly by any software,

all the parts in BLUE are where the fine line is...

1) They don't warrant that it will work with pCars without Faults.
If it works with Their Calibration software. then it's not defective.

2) It's not a Manufacturing Defect, it's a Usability / Wear and tear Issue, and they don't cover that..

3) You have to Follow everything Support tells you, if you Don't, well kiss your warranty good by..

4) they disclaim any warranty for damages that might be the result of Using the Wheel with Software.

So in other words..
Using the Wheel to Play a Game ( Software ) Isn't covered by the Warranty, and Only a Manufacturing Defect is covered.
But only if you jump through all the tests and hoops that Support asks you too.
If the Wheel stops working because the Software makes it get too hot. That's not covered and it's not a defect.

Because they Clearly tell you this in this FAQ
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00156.pdf

LordDRIFT
25-07-2015, 00:43
Sorry to hear that man. That makes me so angry. It sucks powering up your gear wondering if today is the day.

therealzissou
25-07-2015, 12:06
Sorry to hear about your wheel too wyldanimal... This is exactly the same problem I have. I bought the wheel used but the original owner purchased it last November like you. With me though I knew I'd not have warranty but this is extremely worrying that Thrustmaster aren't honouring the warranty for you! The wheel in its current state with the thud thud thud is absolutely un-drivable and without doubt a series fault with the wheel. I'm seriously considering returning this new one to amazon now...

As for turning the FFB down and trying to minimise wheel use, this is just plain crap and should not be the case. We should be able to run for as long as we please without the FFB dying off...

To any mods reading this, it would be a good idea perhaps to do a poll on The t300's reliability? I'd say the majority of PS4 wheel users are using this wheel or indeed considering buying it. It does at the moment seem that there are many many people having problems with the t300 so maybe a poll would help put things in perspective. I'd love to hear from T300 owners who have had there wheel since November and have had no issues at all.

LordDRIFT - I share your anger mate and agree with what you've been saying; I'm merely trying to stay optimistic... Powering on your wheel everyday thinking is "today the day" does indeed suck! But keep thinking like this takes away much of the enjoyment so that's why I try lying to myself. It won't break again...surely not???:confused:

MrFlibble81
25-07-2015, 12:34
Um I don't know where you live but in the UK it doesn't actually matter whether you bought it second hand or not. Manufacturers should still honor the warranty.

The sales of goods act states that all products "must last a reasonable amount of time".

So you can argue successfully that that has not happened so you're entitled to either a refund or replacement.

Chances are you'll have yo argue with them but if you have the sales of goods act to hand you can quote it at them.

I've had to argue it plenty of times and they always try and get away with not replacing products.

therealzissou
25-07-2015, 12:43
Um I don't know where you live but in the UK it doesn't actually matter whether you bought it second hand or not. Manufacturers should still honor the warranty.

The sales of goods act states that all products "must last a reasonable amount of time".

So you can argue successfully that that has not happened so you're entitled to either a refund or replacement.

Chances are you'll have yo argue with them but if you have the sales of goods act to hand you can quote it at them.

I've had to argue it plenty of times and they always try and get away with not replacing products.

Yes, I am in the UK. Thanks for the info. I'll do some research but I'm still not sure. I thought that in the case of buying a second hand Item from a private seller then 'caveat emptor' applies in such a situation? If i'd bought second hand from an eBay store i'd be covered under the sale of good acts for sure; a private seller i don't know. But I will look into it. Thanks again.

LordDRIFT
25-07-2015, 13:03
Um I don't know where you live but in the UK it doesn't actually matter whether you bought it second hand or not. Manufacturers should still honor the warranty.

The sales of goods act states that all products "must last a reasonable amount of time".oh

So you can argue successfully that that has not happened so you're entitled to either a refund or replacement.

Chances are you'll have yo argue with them but if you have the sales of goods act to hand you can quote it at them.

I've had to argue it plenty of times and they always try and get away with not replacing products.

Mine was bought new on ebay. I told them that up front. They made me jump through all their hoops then denied the claim because it was bought on ebay. To add insult to injury the wheel was out of stock every where and I paid 150 over msrp on ebay just to own this "great" wheel. Then having to turn around and by another because of limited options at the time.

Ps my first wheel lasted less than 1 month.

LordDRIFT
25-07-2015, 13:06
Sorry to hear about your wheel too wyldanimal... This is exactly the same problem I have. I bought the wheel used but the original owner purchased it last November like you. With me though I knew I'd not have warranty but this is extremely worrying that Thrustmaster aren't honouring the warranty for you! The wheel in its current state with the thud thud thud is absolutely un-drivable and without doubt a series fault with the wheel. I'm seriously considering returning this new one to amazon now...

As for turning the FFB down and trying to minimise wheel use, this is just plain crap and should not be the case. We should be able to run for as long as we please without the FFB dying off...

To any mods reading this, it would be a good idea perhaps to do a poll on The t300's reliability? I'd say the majority of PS4 wheel users are using this wheel or indeed considering buying it. It does at the moment seem that there are many many people having problems with the t300 so maybe a poll would help put things in perspective. I'd love to hear from T300 owners who have had there wheel since November and have had no issues at all.

LordDRIFT - I share your anger mate and agree with what you've been saying; I'm merely trying to stay optimistic... Powering on your wheel everyday thinking is "today the day" does indeed suck! But keep thinking like this takes away much of the enjoyment so that's why I try lying to myself. It won't break again...surely not???:confused:

There have been countless polls. We are viewed as the minority, but that shouldn't mean the failure rate is acceptable.

MrFlibble81
25-07-2015, 14:01
Yes, I am in the UK. Thanks for the info. I'll do some research but I'm still not sure. I thought that in the case of buying a second hand Item from a private seller then 'caveat emptor' applies in such a situation? If i'd bought second hand from an eBay store i'd be covered under the sale of good acts for sure; a private seller i don't know. But I will look into it. Thanks again.

Well the issue of it being bought from a private seller is kind of irrelevant. You could probably argue that even if you had bought it direct from manufacturer it still would have broken. Or not lasted a "reasonable" amount of time.

That wording is important. "Reasonable amount of time".

Glad I could help a little though.

Flaw3dGenius
25-07-2015, 14:32
There have been countless polls. We are viewed as the minority, but that shouldn't mean the failure rate is acceptable.

Not that much of a minority...

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/poll-thrustmaster-t300rs-gte-reliability-poll.329969/

wyldanimal
25-07-2015, 16:06
Well the issue of it being bought from a private seller is kind of irrelevant. You could probably argue that even if you had bought it direct from manufacturer it still would have broken. Or not lasted a "reasonable" amount of time.

That wording is important. "Reasonable amount of time".

Glad I could help a little though.

but they have the warranty worded in such a way that it will be difficult to win:

This warranty shall not apply: (1) if the product has been modified, opened, altered, or has suffered
damage as a result of inappropriate or abusive use, negligence, an accident, normal wear, or any
other cause unrelated to a material or manufacturing defect (including, but not limited to, combining
the Thrustmaster product with any unsuitable element, including in particular power supplies,
rechargeable batteries, chargers, or any other elements not supplied by Guillemot for this product);
(2) in the event of failure to comply with the instructions provided by Technical Support; (3) to
software, said software being subject to a specific warranty; (4) to consumables (elements to be
replaced over the product’s lifespan: disposable batteries, audio headset or headphone ear pads, for
example); (5) to accessories (cables, cases, pouches, bags, wrist-straps, for example); (6) if the
product was sold at public auction.
This warranty is nontransferable.

the two provisions,
This Warranty shall not apply if the product was sold at public auction.
and
This warranty is nontransferable.
Sort of throw a monkey wrench in that idea.

Anyone wanna by a cheap T300,
It's good for Short Sprint Races... Keep them under 20 minutes, with a 10 minute brake in between.
you'll never know the problem exists..
but just so you know, the Warrant does not Apply..

The part that Suxs....
after Patch 2.0, I just got the FFB settings to where they actually felt pretty good..

no time today, but I'm going to tear it down, maybe I can MOD it, put in a bigger motor or and a 2nd one..
that single small motor just doesn't have the guts to keep from over heating.
especially with that compound Double Belt system.
It just puts too much strain on the motor..

jason
25-07-2015, 16:21
Ko
Maybe time to Switch to Fanatec or Logitech..

Fanatec is cheaper than T500 and Better Built.

$199.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/racing-wheels/forza-motorsport-csr-wheel-us.html

$79.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/pedals/csr-pedals-us.html

$59.95
http://www.fanatec.com/us-en/shifters/csr-shifter-set-us.html

nice wheel, pedals and shifter for about $340.00

Better built Ummm I think not

MrFlibble81
25-07-2015, 16:44
but they have the warranty worded in such a way that it will be difficult to win:

This warranty shall not apply: (1) if the product has been modified, opened, altered, or has suffered
damage as a result of inappropriate or abusive use, negligence, an accident, normal wear, or any
other cause unrelated to a material or manufacturing defect (including, but not limited to, combinin
the Thrustmaster product with any unsuitable element, including in particular power supplies,
rechargeable batteries, chargers, or any other elements not supplied by Guillemot for this product);
(2) in the event of failure to comply with the instructions provided by Technical Support; (3) to
software, said software being subject to a specific warranty; (4) to consumables (elements to be
replaced over the product’s lifespan: disposable batteries, audio headset or headphone ear pads, for
example); (5) to accessories (cables, cases, pouches, bags, wrist-straps, for example); (6) if the
product was sold at public auction.
This warranty is nontransferable.

the two provisions,
This Warranty shall not apply if the product was sold at public auction.
and
This warranty is nontransferable.
Sort of throw a monkey wrench in that idea.

Anyone wanna by a cheap T300,
It's good for Short Sprint Races... Keep them under 20 minutes, with a 10 minute brake in between.
you'll never know the problem exists..
but just so you know, the Warrant does not Apply..

The part that Suxs....
after Patch 2.0, I just got the FFB settings to where they actually felt pretty good..

no time today, but I'm going to tear it down, maybe I can MOD it, put in a bigger motor or and a 2nd one..
that single small motor just doesn't have the guts to keep from over heating.
especially with that compound Double Belt system.
It just puts too much strain on the motor..


But we're not talking about the warranty, were talking aboutwhether it lasted a reasonable amount of time so the question of whether it's pre owned is irrelevant.

I argued this very thing with Sony years ago when I boughta PS2 second hand and it wouldn't read the old blue backed discs. They ended up sending me a new console.

So if can be done. You just have to be armed with all the right information and be prepared to argue. Just remember to be polite to the person you're talking to. It'll get you further and ALWAYS get their name.

baz00ka
26-07-2015, 19:11
i would 2nd that MrFlibble. they can put any rubbish in their warranty text. you have consumer rights backed by the law which no corporate written warranty rubbish can override ie if anything in that warranty is against the law the law overrides it plain and simple. they all try to wiggle out of it even companies like Apple who used to infamously sell you their not so cheap AppleCare after one year even tho all electronics in EU are covered by 2 year warranty. its hassle to argue with them tho and whether its worth it or not is a personal call.

wyldanimal
26-07-2015, 23:04
But we're not talking about the warranty, were talking aboutwhether it lasted a reasonable amount of time so the question of whether it's pre owned is irrelevant.

I argued this very thing with Sony years ago when I boughta PS2 second hand and it wouldn't read the old blue backed discs. They ended up sending me a new console.

So if can be done. You just have to be armed with all the right information and be prepared to argue. Just remember to be polite to the person you're talking to. It'll get you further and ALWAYS get their name.

Well, I took matters into my own hands..
Tore my T300 down for a 2nd time.. Found the Main Issue that was causing my Thud Thud thud...
the Motor had come loose, and this was allowing the Belt to jump teeth...

I decided to Leave the Top Cover Off so I can get more air circulation around the Motor.
I've also reduced my FFB strength.. Brought it back down to 75%

I got to race with it for 30 Minutes before the fan kicked on...
Was still ok after about an Hour, but the Fan was running the whole time from 30 Minutes on..

some photos
213407

213408

213409

213410

Yes I know I have a spelling mistake in the Text.
I'm not going to edit the Photo...
The word should be, "Exposed"
213411

With the Heat Sink, it looks like a BIG motor..
So for size comparison. Motor Next to a US Quarter.
Motor is 42mm, Quarter is 24.3mm, heat sink is 65mm
213412

Here is motor Data, B4260M 24V it has an output of 60W peak.
213413

213414

213415

RonDv
27-07-2015, 01:45
Does that air gap between the motor body and heatsink go all the way the thru the other end? If it does(terrible quality), then that heatsink is pretty close to being useless and might be doing more harm than good. Probably one of the reasons why the motor heats up really quickly. If that is replaceable I would put an aftermarket heatsink instead and modify the fins to fit the case.

LordDRIFT
27-07-2015, 02:30
The whole cooling system is useless. The design makes for more of a convection oven in the case. The the fan isn't ducted abs there is no clear path to pull in cool air and dispel hot air.

wyldanimal
27-07-2015, 04:33
Does that air gap between the motor body and heatsink go all the way the thru the other end? If it does(terrible quality), then that heatsink is pretty close to being useless and might be doing more harm than good. Probably one of the reasons why the motor heats up really quickly. If that is replaceable I would put an aftermarket heatsink instead and modify the fins to fit the case.

Notice how the Heatsink is Compression Fitted.
The body is Punched / Dimpled to Displace the Metal and Compress it onto the Motor.
You would have to use something like a Dremel Cutting Wheel, to Slice the Heatsink open to remove it.
213437

If I did that, then I might coil some copper tubing around it, Bring the ends of the Tube out the rear of the case.
and use an External CPU water Circulation Pump to cool it.

T300 with H2O cooling..



A few more Pics.

213430

213431

213432

213433

213434

213435

213436

The Fan:
213438

RonDv
27-07-2015, 07:20
Probably the easiest way to remove it is to just cut the dimpled part out and slide it out, the heatsink looks oversized, but could involve some delicate cutting.

Watercooling the motor would be great, imagine racing for hours and not experience heating problems.:cool:

therealzissou
27-07-2015, 11:38
wyldanimal - This information is fantastic! It certainly seems to be that cooling is the biggest flaw with this wheel. I think most problems probably stem from some sort of heating issue. My sim room can get very hot when I'm racing so this is definitely a concern for me.

I've also went ahead and opened my broken T300 again. Mine doesn't have the same issue as you however; everything is nice and tight, nothing lose at all and the belt doesn't jump the teeth...

After running Thrustmaster calibration software everything works as it should for about half an hour then the FFB goes light and notchy again and after unplugging and re connected it again won't calibrate.
This is what I don't really understand? Surely if the motor was damaged (perhaps due to overheating) then a software reset wouldn't fix this and it would consistently appear week and notchy... I didn't really lose money in the end as I sold the pedals and GTE rim that came with it so I have this extra (broken) base that I may as well attempt to fix. Though I don't exactly have much technical knowledge so I'm not hoping for much.

Does anyone have any suggestions??

Edit: Also the heatsink on my motor is a much snugger fit than in your photos...there's pretty much no gap at all.

Fight-Test
27-07-2015, 13:24
I thought one of the sms guys confirmed his t300 was fading and it's the game not the wheel and its being corrected for patch like it was on pc. I'll see if I can find where he posted it.

I still haven't noticed any issues. I play 3 to 6 hours a day except that I have to calibrate the wheel everytime I start the ps4 now since last patch. The pedals are fine but the wheel ratio is off.

LordDRIFT
27-07-2015, 13:31
Just noticed shaft housing is black. The one on my broken wheel (shaft casing cracked open from violent banging lock to lock and failed to calibrate) was white. Wonder if they have been making "improvements"?

therealzissou
27-07-2015, 13:36
I thought one of the sms guys confirmed his t300 was fading and it's the game not the wheel and its being corrected for patch like it was on pc. I'll see if I can find where he posted it.

I still haven't noticed any issues. I play 3 to 6 hours a day except that I have to vibrated the wheel everytime I start the ps4 now. The pedals are fine but the wheel ratio is off.

This is a different issue from the one I have... This happens in all games, not just project cars. The thrustmaster manual says that after prolonged use it is normal for the FFB to fade and this did indeed happen with me on ProjectCars before the current issue (although not near as much with the latest patch).

therealzissou
27-07-2015, 13:40
Edit: Wrong quote

@LordDRIFT
I'd certainly expect them to. They did with the T500... Just hoping my brand new one is included. It did have the latest firmware installed out the box, thats the only difference without opening it up to inspect, so I guess that means it's at least a newer batch.

LordDRIFT
27-07-2015, 14:09
vibrator..lol!

Octavius_BOS
28-07-2015, 18:26
I bought my T300 RS in June and within 2 weeks it was a paper weight. It would not calibrate. TM customer service was useless.

Thankfully I bought the wheel through Amazon. They mailed me a brand new wheel within 24 hours, free of charge. I then mailed back the defective one on their dime. So far the new wheel works great.

I previously used a G27 on PS3. I've invested in a full rig and have really got into sim racing. I bought the T300 to have a PS4 compatible wheel. When it works properly, the T300 is definitely an upgrade over the G27. My plan is to buy a PC later this year and get into real sim racing on the PC. Then I'll upgrade the pedals and wheel to something more substantial like the AccuForce (after saving for a bit). I just hope the T300 keeps working in the meantime!

draughn101
29-07-2015, 12:32
I've had my T300 for about a week now, but I've put in 3-4 hours with it each day. I've noticed that the plastic is now popping and creaking pretty regularly and my force feedback doesn't last as long as it did out of the box. I'm starting to wonder if it's a better idea to take the plunge and get the clubsport v2 instead of waiting for this thing to blow up on me. Does anyone know if Fanatec charges you immediately for an order, or only after it ships? If so, I can use Amazons 30day return period to ease the wait :)

MrFlibble81
29-07-2015, 13:08
I've had my T300 for about a week now, but I've put in 3-4 hours with it each day. I've noticed that the plastic is now popping and creaking pretty regularly and my force feedback doesn't last as long as it did out of the box. I'm starting to wonder if it's a better idea to take the plunge and get the clubsport v2 instead of waiting for this thing to blow up on me. Does anyone know if Fanatec charges you immediately for an order, or only after it ships? If so, I can use Amazons 30day return period to ease the wait :)

Would the FFB not be as strong because the belt inside has stretched a little so it's slipping maybe?

I don't know much about wheels but I'm pretty sure they have a belt inside which powers the FFB.

Still it shouldn't be going wrong that quick out of the box. I would send it back to Amazon. Their customer service is pretty good (at least it is over here in the states) so it shouldn't be an issue.

wyldanimal
29-07-2015, 17:03
Would the FFB not be as strong because the belt inside has stretched a little so it's slipping maybe?

I don't know much about wheels but I'm pretty sure they have a belt inside which powers the FFB.

Still it shouldn't be going wrong that quick out of the box. I would send it back to Amazon. Their customer service is pretty good (at least it is over here in the states) so it shouldn't be an issue.

the belts are made by Gates. the GT3 series..
all of these belts are designed to NOT Stretch. ( it's called elongation in the industry )
if this type of Belt were to Stretch, the Whole Industrial industry that uses them would not Buy them.

http://www.gates.com/products/industrial/industrial-belts/synchronous-belts/powergrip-gt3-belts

MrFlibble81
29-07-2015, 17:31
the belts are made by Gates. the GT3 series..
all of these belts are designed to NOT Stretch. ( it's called elongation in the industry )
if this type of Belt were to Stretch, the Whole Industrial industry that uses them would not Buy them.

http://www.gates.com/products/industrial/industrial-belts/synchronous-belts/powergrip-gt3-belts

Fair enough. Wasn't aware of that. I learnt something today so that's good! :D

Woffu
30-07-2015, 01:12
I've been absolutely loving project cars so much so that I ended up getting rid of my wheel stand and building a complete cockpit, custom suede wheel and spending most of my free time racing.

Today however my fun has ended...

Was racing with friends online last night and all of a sudden the ffb felt really strange and light. Mostly in the corners. The ffb display in telemetry was going nuts as well. I thought this was something game related but the problems were also there on AC on PC. Now the wheel won't even calibrate, just keeps spinning to the right and violently hitting the stop. I can get it to work if I have the wheel all the way to the left but the problems with the ffb are still there.

I've literally spent all day trying to fix it to no avail. Reinstalled the firmware, pc drivers, even opened it up but no obvious signs of anything wrong. And on top of that i must have read about 1000 forum threads...

Sadly though, I bought the wheel used on eBay so RMA isn't an option. Ive had it for about 4 months and its worked flawlessly up until now.

If anyone has any suggestions, anything at all! That would be much appreciated. (i feel like I've lost my livelihood haha)

Steve
Hey mate my wheel has just done the same thing as yours did? Did you ever get it to work again? If yes how did you do it?
And how is your new wheel going? Had any problems with the new one?

therealzissou
30-07-2015, 02:34
Hey mate my wheel has just done the same thing as yours did? Did you ever get it to work again? If yes how did you do it?
And how is your new wheel going? Had any problems with the new one?

Sorry to hear about that man. Nah, unfortunately not... Thrustmaster did send me a calibration tool that fixed it temporarily but it literally last a few laps before the ffb goes again and it fails to calibrate. As for my new one, only had it a few week and all seems well, though it has developed a funny scraping noise when i turn 180 degrees to the left...

I opened my broken wheel yesterday for a look around and I must say I was really disappointed in the overall build quality. The crappy thing is that literally everytime I use the wheel now I worry that it might break and that just aint fun :( Was mentioned earlier in the thread that 'when it works it's a great' wheel but man, it really should work all the time, I'm certainly not as happy as I was when I first got it; In fact I loved it so much I convinced two of my friends to get one; now one of them has strapped fans to the sides and turned the ffb down to prevent fade and or death...

The amount of failures being reported here and on other forums is really getting worrying now. I've spent the last few hours trying to work out whether I should just take the hit and spend some cash on a fanatic clubsport setup.

therealzissou
30-07-2015, 02:38
I've had my T300 for about a week now, but I've put in 3-4 hours with it each day. I've noticed that the plastic is now popping and creaking pretty regularly and my force feedback doesn't last as long as it did out of the box. I'm starting to wonder if it's a better idea to take the plunge and get the clubsport v2 instead of waiting for this thing to blow up on me. Does anyone know if Fanatec charges you immediately for an order, or only after it ships? If so, I can use Amazons 30day return period to ease the wait :)

I think I might do the same buddy...

wyldanimal
30-07-2015, 03:13
Well, Since I have no Idea how long my Wheel will continue to work,
I ordered a G29, got confirmation that it arrives on Friday..


My T300 with reducing my FFB from 100% down to 75% has helped..
It's a bit weaker to start, but it doesn't seem to fade like it had.
And Since my Repair, no Thud thud thud..

I had Left the top off, but decided to make a MOD to the case so I can easily remove the top.
the face of the top has a Flange with a lip and three screw tabs.

Using an Exacto knife, I scored along the Flange and then using a pliers, Broke off the flange and all of the screw tabs.
Using a sharp blade as a scraper. I cleaned up the plastic where it broke away.

The front two Tabs on the Base remain, and will hold the top together.
Press down on the top and it Snaps in place.
For Now I will leave the 5 screws from the bottom out.


Now I don't have to Remove the Wheel, or the Front Ring to take the top off.

I also brought out the two spare Sequential Shifter wires.
I cut a small slot near the front bottom and left the wires out.
At some time I may build a Shifter using two Switches, and I can just connect it to these wires.


213808

213809

213810

213811

213812

draughn101
30-07-2015, 13:53
Would the FFB not be as strong because the belt inside has stretched a little so it's slipping maybe?

I don't know much about wheels but I'm pretty sure they have a belt inside which powers the FFB.

Still it shouldn't be going wrong that quick out of the box. I would send it back to Amazon. Their customer service is pretty good (at least it is over here in the states) so it shouldn't be an issue.

Yea I know it shouldn't be like this out of the box, but I think I've learned a few things by owning this one. #1 that having a wheel and racing at home is a complete blast and something I plan on doing for a long time. Which leads me to #2, I want to be doing this for a long time... and spending $400 on a product that I don't have faith will last doesn't fit into that. Hearing all the complaints, seeing the budget build of this thing, and hearing/viewing the construction weakness first hand makes me think I should find a more quality product. #3 as someone mentioned in here, worrying about this thing crapping out takes a portion of the fun away from using it.

I just haven't decided if it's a better idea to drop $1000 on a Clubsport V2, or make the switch to a G29. The idea behind switching to a G29 is to get the longevity, and understand that the reduction in FFB is made up for in the fact that you will have to lower FFB on the T300 to get it to last at all. Decisions decisions...

therealzissou
30-07-2015, 15:05
Yea I know it shouldn't be like this out of the box, but I think I've learned a few things by owning this one. #1 that having a wheel and racing at home is a complete blast and something I plan on doing for a long time. Which leads me to #2, I want to be doing this for a long time... and spending $400 on a product that I don't have faith will last doesn't fit into that. Hearing all the complaints, seeing the budget build of this thing, and hearing/viewing the construction weakness first hand makes me think I should find a more quality product. #3 as someone mentioned in here, worrying about this thing crapping out takes a portion of the fun away from using it.

I just haven't decided if it's a better idea to drop $1000 on a Clubsport V2, or make the switch to a G29. The idea behind switching to a G29 is to get the longevity, and understand that the reduction in FFB is made up for in the fact that you will have to lower FFB on the T300 to get it to last at all. Decisions decisions...

I completely agree with you. I definitely see myself doing this for a long time. I played Gran Turismo for years with my G25 clamped to my coffee table but more recently I've invested in a full cockpit so more than anything I use it a lot more because I don't have to move anything or set anything up. However with the T300 it really is taking some of the fun away worrying about it. I never had this with my old G25...and I still use the pedals.

So like you I'm thinking about moving to the CSW V2. I always considered this to be too expensive but when you consider its cost in relation other electronics, iPads, computers etc; how much you use it and if you see it more as a hobby, it doesn't seem much at all. For example I spent £1300 on a macbook pro that I use daily(like my wheel); my mountain bike cost over a grand (which gets used a lot less than my wheel). People spend considerably more or other hobbies. I mean, people spend this kind of money on other things without question.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that many people see having a wheel more as an expensive gaming peripheral than as a hobby itself. I certainly did for a while. This is my reasoning for deciding to go ahead and upgrade to a clubsport set up so hopefully it'll help others with their decisions.

wyldanimal
31-07-2015, 05:39
Yea I know it shouldn't be like this out of the box, but I think I've learned a few things by owning this one. #1 that having a wheel and racing at home is a complete blast and something I plan on doing for a long time. Which leads me to #2, I want to be doing this for a long time... and spending $400 on a product that I don't have faith will last doesn't fit into that. Hearing all the complaints, seeing the budget build of this thing, and hearing/viewing the construction weakness first hand makes me think I should find a more quality product. #3 as someone mentioned in here, worrying about this thing crapping out takes a portion of the fun away from using it.

I just haven't decided if it's a better idea to drop $1000 on a Clubsport V2, or make the switch to a G29. The idea behind switching to a G29 is to get the longevity, and understand that the reduction in FFB is made up for in the fact that you will have to lower FFB on the T300 to get it to last at all. Decisions decisions...


I completely agree with you. I definitely see myself doing this for a long time. I played Gran Turismo for years with my G25 clamped to my coffee table but more recently I've invested in a full cockpit so more than anything I use it a lot more because I don't have to move anything or set anything up. However with the T300 it really is taking some of the fun away worrying about it. I never had this with my old G25...and I still use the pedals.

So like you I'm thinking about moving to the CSW V2. I always considered this to be too expensive but when you consider its cost in relation other electronics, iPads, computers etc; how much you use it and if you see it more as a hobby, it doesn't seem much at all. For example I spent £1300 on a macbook pro that I use daily(like my wheel); my mountain bike cost over a grand (which gets used a lot less than my wheel). People spend considerably more or other hobbies. I mean, people spend this kind of money on other things without question.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that many people see having a wheel more as an expensive gaming peripheral than as a hobby itself. I certainly did for a while. This is my reasoning for deciding to go ahead and upgrade to a clubsport set up so hopefully it'll help others with their decisions.

If you really want to think long term. And spread your investment out of the Years you will get out of it..
For a PC system,
I think this is probably the best VALUE over time.

Direct Drive Servo Driven ( not a stepper motor )
http://simxperience.com/products/accessories/accuforcesteering/accuforcepro.aspx
$1,800

That's the Complete Wheel Package.

you still need to supply your Own Pedals.
Your G25's / G27's will work with a USB adapter like this one..
http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=97&products_id=187

But this is a PC only option. as far as I know, it's not supported on the PS4.

rocafella1978
31-07-2015, 14:05
If you really want to think long term. And spread your investment out of the Years you will get out of it..
For a PC system,
I think this is probably the best VALUE over time.

Direct Drive Servo Driven ( not a stepper motor )
http://simxperience.com/products/accessories/accuforcesteering/accuforcepro.aspx
$1,800

That's the Complete Wheel Package.

you still need to supply your Own Pedals.
Your G25's / G27's will work with a USB adapter like this one..
http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=97&products_id=187

But this is a PC only option. as far as I know, it's not supported on the PS4.

yes AF DD and LB DD only PC and not on consoles, and from what I have seen in reviews in forums AF DD users only complaint is really the stock steering wheel moves and gives too much and is flimsy, that's the only negative on that system! But again, most users buying AF DD add their own modded steering wheel anyways, which is another $200-500 depending on mod, if not $800-1200 if it a custom made wheel for the AF DD. (my last custom PC wheel has been a while now, but I paid approx 450EUR for a G27 customized steering wheel with QR system, at least my nephew is enjoy the G27!) and pretty soon, i will enjoy my PC when i have my 80/20 rig!!!!! can't wait!

but great links and info as always from @Wyldanimal! (you should have your own blog or site!!!)

therealzissou
31-07-2015, 14:38
Something I've noticed with the T300 in Project cars is the wheel behaves quite differently than it does on my PC running Assetto Corsa. I'm not comparing the games (both excel at different things) but Project cars seems to work the T300 a lot harder.

For example on my pc I have the FFB set to 75% in the Thrustmaster control panel and 100% in game on AC. This gives me a noticeably stronger feel than in project cars with it at default (75%iirc) that perfectly suits my play style. What is strange though is that after 10 laps of Spa in both games in a GT3 car, the fan turns off after I stop racing in just over a minute in AC whereas Pcars takes over 10 minutes to switch off.

I'm certainly not trying to blame Pcars for any of the T300's problems (of which there are many) but it does seem to put more stress on the motor than in AC. I also tried Iracing with similar results to AC. Has anyone else noticed this? Any what's your thoughts? I of course understand that Pcars FFB system works differently and has many more nuances than AC or Iracing so can't be compared directly.

therealzissou
31-07-2015, 14:44
@rocafella1978 - I noticed on your signature you use a CSW V2. How well does this work with PS4 and Project Cars? Would you recommend it? And do you see it as a considerable step up from the Thrustmaster offerings? I've almost convinced myself to buy one :)

As much as a Direct Drive wheel would be fantastic. I'd rather maintain console compatibility and they're just a tad out of my budget ;)

Roger Prynne
31-07-2015, 15:16
I would imagine that pCARS is using a lot more FFB parameters than any other game does.

wyldanimal
31-07-2015, 15:19
Something I've noticed with the T300 in Project cars is the wheel behaves quite differently than it does on my PC running Assetto Corsa. I'm not comparing the games (both excel at different things) but Project cars seems to work the T300 a lot harder.

For example on my pc I have the FFB set to 75% in the Thrustmaster control panel and 100% in game on AC. This gives me a noticeably stronger feel than in project cars with it at default (75%iirc) that perfectly suits my play style. What is strange though is that after 10 laps of Spa in both games in a GT3 car, the fan turns off after I stop racing in just over a minute in AC whereas Pcars takes over 10 minutes to switch off.

I'm certainly not trying to blame Pcars for any of the T300's problems (of which there are many) but it does seem to put more stress on the motor than in AC. I also tried Iracing with similar results to AC. Has anyone else noticed this? Any what's your thoughts? I of course understand that Pcars FFB system works differently and has many more nuances than AC or Iracing so can't be compared directly.

I've always attributed the "More" Heat issue to be from the Centering Spring affect, not being turned off.
No Matter where you are, the Wheel is always fighting to return back to Center.

Example:
take a car out on a track, drive slow and turn hard Left or Hard Right, with the wheel still turned. use the brakes to Stop the car.
now Let go of the Wheel. It jumps right back to center.

It should stay put.
That's the centering force that you are always turning against and that torque builds up heat.

Since you have the other Sims, try the same thing in them.. What happens when you let go of the Wheel?

draughn101
31-07-2015, 15:21
Does anyone know how Fanatec does the preorder process? Do they charge you immediately? Or when the item is available to ship? I emailed them, they emailed back but didn't answer the question, lol.

therealzissou
31-07-2015, 15:30
I've always attributed the "More" Heat issue to be from the Centering Spring affect, not being turned off.
No Matter where you are, the Wheel is always fighting to return back to Center.

Example:
take a car out on a track, drive slow and turn hard Left or Hard Right, with the wheel still turned. use the brakes to Stop the car.
now Let go of the Wheel. It jumps right back to center.

It should stay put.
That's the centering force that you are always turning against and that torque builds up heat.

Since you have the other Sims, try the same thing in them.. What happens when you let go of the Wheel?

Ah this makes a lot more sense now. I just tried on AC and the wheel stays in the direction turned. This is definitely cause for concern then. Is there no way we can disable the entering spring?

I honestly don't like how hot my wheel gets playing Pcars to the point where i'm not comfortable playing it anymore. Especially cause my first wheel died... Not saying that it was the game's fault but the less heat in my T300 the better.

LordDRIFT
31-07-2015, 16:01
The pcars defaults for ps4 are two high plain and simple. Turned down the centering effect at speed is more realistic. I get the feeling there are folks that feel if they are not fighting with the wheel they are not using it to its full potential. Initially I was impressed by this (its power), but a car shouldn't feel like your power steering went out in the parking lot when you are at speed.

Fight-Test
31-07-2015, 16:09
I believe some center spring is necessary as I have never driven anything on track that doesn't fight to get back to neutral but in this case with it effecting ffb we should be able to turn off and stay off or turn down till its fixed. Even my racing kart has a centering effect that far far exceeds what the t300 is doing. I never experienced any fade till I switched from jacks 66% to classic last week. I went back to 66% but now I know what you guys are talking about.

Drift i did save you settings you suggested and will try this weekend.

LordDRIFT
31-07-2015, 17:15
I believe some center spring is necessary as I have never driven anything on track that doesn't fight to get back to neutral but in this case with it effecting ffb we should be able to turn off and stay off or turn down till its fixed. Even my racing kart has a centering effect that far far exceeds what the t300 is doing. I never experienced any fade till I switched from jacks 66% to classic last week. I went back to 66% but now I know what you guys are talking about.

Drift i did save you settings you suggested and will try this weekend.

I've since tweaked toward more resistance. Fy is now 44 and sop Lat is 80.

Fight-Test
31-07-2015, 17:21
thanks, noted

draughn101
01-08-2015, 03:47
I found someone selling a CSW v1.5 for $300 shipped. Says only 20 hours on it. Should I be jumping all over that?

DJBLITZKRIEG
01-08-2015, 14:28
I've had my 500 for about 4 years now. used very day for 3 hours I kid u not. Still going strong.

draughn101
01-08-2015, 15:01
As the saying goes: "If it's too good to be true, It probably is." Questions to ask: Why 20 hours, Will I get a receipt? and Can I return it? If the answers satisfy you then by all means jump on it now. That is a rare deal.

Someone's selling it on a sim racing forum. The guy said he's getting too old for simracers and isn't as fast as he used to be. He also sold his V2 and the entire setup. The 1.5 is all that is left.

Ramjet
01-08-2015, 15:21
... Direct Drive Servo Driven ( not a stepper motor )
http://simxperience.com/products/accessories/accuforcesteering/accuforcepro.aspx

I just want to chime in here and correct couple of facts I read in this thread about the AccuForce Wheel. It is a stepper motor but a custom design and in operation you do not notice any notchiness or such effects, it is very strong & smooth. I have owned my AF for about 4 months now after previously owning several Fanatec wheels (porsche and csr) and before that several Logitech and many Thrustmaster wheels (pre T500).

The AF is brilliant and the software that runs it, Simcommander, is very powerful & versatile in tuning profiles for race titles. Also the stock wheel rim is very good quality, strong and absolutely no flex in it. I have a smaller rim that I swap out with it but have had no problems at all with the wheel flexing or moving etc. and nobody else I know with an AF has either. If it did that, it would suggest some fault, and you would return it for replacement or repair. It can produce FFB effects independant of the game provided FFB using the physics output of the race title. Good example is the recentl early access Dirt Rally where the FFB in game is pretty ordinary but when you turn on the simcommander FFB the rallying comes to life and is absolutely unbelievable how good it is.

I was surprised to see how poorly constructed the T300 looks in those images. My old CSR Forza edition was not powerful but was a sturdy and well constructed little wheel and worked beautifully in AC and rF2, not quite as good in pCars though. Still looks a better choice at the price point.

tgrey
01-08-2015, 17:45
I bought my T300 RS in June and within 2 weeks it was a paper weight. It would not calibrate. TM customer service was useless.

Thankfully I bought the wheel through Amazon. They mailed me a brand new wheel within 24 hours, free of charge. I then mailed back the defective one on their dime. So far the new wheel works great.

I previously used a G27 on PS3. I've invested in a full rig and have really got into sim racing. I bought the T300 to have a PS4 compatible wheel. When it works properly, the T300 is definitely an upgrade over the G27. My plan is to buy a PC later this year and get into real sim racing on the PC. Then I'll upgrade the pedals and wheel to something more substantial like the AccuForce (after saving for a bit). I just hope the T300 keeps working in the meantime!

I had the exact same experience... just under a month in and my wheel stopped working, support was useless. Amazon to the rescue!

I made a thread about it too over here: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35985-Another-t300RS-bites-the-dust

I haven't put a review on amazon yet, but I will be getting around to that soon.

draughn101
01-08-2015, 18:56
I had the exact same experience... just under a month in and my wheel stopped working, support was useless. Amazon to the rescue!

I made a thread about it too over here: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35985-Another-t300RS-bites-the-dust

I haven't put a review on amazon yet, but I will be getting around to that soon.

All this worries me. I took a shot on a Clubsport V1 for $300 and I think I'm going to be much safer/happier with that. Wish you were getting a little more for $400, but people are still scooping them up at that price

deedub777
05-08-2015, 13:49
Guess I join the victim list now.

Got the T300 with GTE rim in Feb. Been OK but over the last few weeks got the same problem as OP. Got the motor calibration tool from Thirstblunder and all calibrates OK, bung it back on the PS4, works a bit, FFB goes away and when reconnected get the usual four zillion miles an hour right turn and thump.

Waiting to hear back from them about next steps. I assume RTB for repair. So wish I hadn't got this now. Each time you power on you think "is it going to work?"

I used a Logitech DFGT on GT5 for years with not a sniff of a problem.

J4M35_R
05-08-2015, 14:30
Guess I join the victim list now.

Got the T300 with GTE rim in Feb. Been OK but over the last few weeks got the same problem as OP. Got the motor calibration tool from Thirstblunder and all calibrates OK, bung it back on the PS4, works a bit, FFB goes away and when reconnected get the usual four zillion miles an hour right turn and thump.

Waiting to hear back from them about next steps. I assume RTB for repair. So wish I hadn't got this now. Each time you power on you think "is it going to work?"

I used a Logitech DFGT on GT5 for years with not a sniff of a problem.

I had the same problem after just six weeks, Thrustmaster ended up replacing the base for a new one.

deedub777
06-08-2015, 12:40
I had the same problem after just six weeks, Thrustmaster ended up replacing the base for a new one.
Base is being sent back today

draughn101
06-08-2015, 18:45
I made the jump to Clubsport and its worth it, especially for the peace of mind. I've got a deal on a v2, so I'm going to sell my v1, but there's a few others listed on eBay. You can get a base there for about $325-350

You can pick up the F1 rim $175, and csr pedals $99, and only be $100 over a T500. I don't think that's a bad deal at all.

IronMask75
06-08-2015, 21:21
I used a Logitech DFGT on GT5 for years with not a sniff of a problem.

As much as I hate Logitech for their terrible universal remotes, fancy keyboard functions with no developer support and the direction they took with PS4, the DFGT is the Toyota Hilux of racing wheels. Got mine before the release of GT5 on the PS3. Flogged it hard with 100% FFB strength on DiRT 2 for about a year with no issues. Used it for another year on GT5. Played Grand Prix Legends and GTR2 on PC with it and it had amazing fidelity and subtlety. Best value wheel for last gen.

deedub777
25-11-2015, 09:22
So there it is, 3 months later and the wheelbase has failed again.
I returned the product to the supplier for a full refund.
You need to do better Thriftmugger.
Now, by chance, Amazon (UK) has the Logitech G29 for £179 - SOLD!

seamastergmt
25-11-2015, 21:55
My T300RS also broke after several months. Like the original poster, it got really light in corners then would not calibrate. Just violently went back and forth to the stops. I sent mine back to Thrustmaster, they have had it for 3 weeks and still no idea where it is in the repair cue. I am getting a Fanatec setup this Friday...

Anyone want to buy a refurbed T300RS?