View Full Version : PS4 T300 (RS) FFB Tuning - Discussion and Settings

21-08-2015, 21:33
Starting this thread, based on a suggestion made in another discussion (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?37548-Post-3-0-T300-wheel-settings-post-you-preferred-settings). The purpose of this thread it to provide players with T300 RS wheels a place to share and discuss FFB tuning in the global configuration screens. That's it. PLEASE...no other discussions in this thread. Keeping it clean will make it easier for people to read up and get what they need out of it. Also, before you ask, please read. The more we all read, the more informed we'll be, the less repetition there will be in the comments, and the more refined out tuning tips and advice will become.

Use the below settings list as a template for your tuning share. These tunes are based on post 3.0 settings, so specify which profile you used (Default or Classic). To keep thread tight and avoid excessive scrolling, only include the settings you changed. Users will know by omission that you left them at default.

Also, and mostly importantly, along with your settings, please provide an explanation (see example in the first post) for the reason you made your particular adjustments. This is important, because it will help ensure that this thread contains solid advice. If you can't explain why you made your adjustments, then you were either guessing or doing what someone else told you to do. Nothing wrong with that, this just isn't that type of thread. This thread is for drivers that want to gain a deeper understanding of the FFB controls and share what they've learned through hands on experience and testing with other drivers. Providing an explanation, is not only educational, but it also makes the process more efficient, allowing other drivers to make better choices regarding which advice is best suits for their style and preference. If you've changed a setting to increase your wheel weight, and I don't like heavy wheels, then I can ignored that tip, or apply it modestly. Please follow this rule. It doesn't have to be a book, just a short explanation of why you made your particular adjustments.

Again, this is for global FFB configurations only. Feel free to reference the car level settings, with regards to how they effect or enhance your global tune, but there is no need to list or specify your car level FFB settings, unless asked.

Steering Deadzone -
Steering Sensitivity -
Throttle Deadzone -
Throttle Sensitivity -
Brake Deadzone -
Brake Sensitivity -
Clutch Deadzone -
Clutch Sensitivity -
Speed Sensitivity -
Controller Filter Sensitivity -
Damper Saturation -
Force Feedback -
RPM/ Gear Display -
Controller Input Mode -
Advanced (On or Off?)

Calibrate Force Feedback:
Tire Force -
Per Wheel Movement -
Per Wheel Movement Squared -
Wheel Position Smoothing -
Deadzone Removal Range -
Deadzone Removal Falloff -
Linkage Scale -
Linkage Stiffness -
Linkage Dampening -
Relative Adjust Gain –
Relative Adjust Bleed -
Relative Adjust Clamp -
Scoop Knee -
Scoop Reduction -
Soft Clipping (Half Input) -
Soft Clipping (Full Output) -
Menu Spring -
Low Speed Spring Coefficient -
Low Speed Spring Saturation -
Steering Gain -

21-08-2015, 21:33
Default Profile

Steering Deadzone = 0
Force Feedback = 80

Tire Force = 65
Menu Spring Strength = 0.30
Low Speed Spring Coefficient = 0.75
Low Speed Spring Saturation = 0.05
Steering Gain = 0.80 - 0.82 (strangely, an increment or two, makes a noticeable difference for me)

I’ve heard some people say that Menu Spring Strength has made a difference for them in game. However, the patch notes and my experience is that this only affects the wheel’s centering pull when you’re in the menu screens. I’ve tested it, and I can feel the difference (wheel heavier or lighter) as soon as I back out of the configuration screen and the settings save. I lowered mine, because I know the T300 wheels can be finicky, and I don’t want the motor working hard for no reason.

The Low Speed Spring settings are exactly what they says, the centering spring strength at low speeds. The Coefficient is how quickly the force is applied at low speeds. I didn’t change this, because the patch notes recommended leaving it higher than the Saturation, so I just went with the default. Saturation controls how much centering force is applied at low speeds. I set this very low, because, when driving, centering force feels the same as the lateral force from the tires. At high speeds, the lateral tire force overpowers the centering force. But as speed decreases, and the lateral forces drop, too much centering force can give the false impression of lateral tire force. Lowering the Low Speed Spring Saturation will make the wheel feel lighter during low speed cornering. This is a personal preference, and may not feel right to everyone. I like it, because it lets me know when I've got grip to spare, and I take corners tighter. When the centering force is there, it feels just like lateral tire force, and I don't realize I've got excess grip to tighten the turn.

Steering Gain is a force multiplier. Whatever you set this to, PCars will multiple the steering force by that amount. A setting of 1 produces no effect (4 x 1 = 4). Obviously, a higher setting here can cause clipping. I lowered mine to 0.82, which reduces the force (4 x .82 = 3.28). I felt like this provided me with a good base force that doesn't clip. If the wheel of an individual car feels too light, then I can adjust the Master Scale at the car level. Again, this value is a personal preference. But I do recommend finding your baseline setting for your global values, and then adjusting for individual car mechanics at the car level.

I don’t use Soft Clipping anymore because with my lower FF, TF, and Steering Gain settings, my FFB stays within the wheel’s range.

At the car level, I use Jack Spade's Classic FFB settings. I don't use SoP Lateral, because those forces operate in the same spectrum as the Fy tire forces, and I've found my lap times were always better with the Classic settings. The Classic settings use SoP Differential, and I've found that's all I need. I do, however, add a little smoothing to the Jack Spade settings. 10 – 20 increments on each slider, except Fz Smoothing. I leave that at 0, because it’s the spectrum that communicates bumps, curbs, and road texture. I prefer that force raw, gritty, and hard.

I also recommend that, at the car level, you set your FFB Master Scale (on the first tab) and SoP Scale (on the second tab) to the same increment. These forces often work in the same spectrum. If one is stronger than the other, you'll be getting lopsided feedback.

23-08-2015, 01:03
Change of plans. Due to how far along the old thread is, we're keeping the discussion there.