PDA

View Full Version : T300 GTE or T300RS : Self-Calibration Issue at startup solved



Seubi42
27-08-2015, 08:48
Hi Guys

If it can help someone :

I had exactly the same problem than this guy with my T300 Ferrari GTE :


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIe7JNaRM8k

Yesterday every time I plug the wheel on my ps4, it cannot self-calibrate. It every time hit the right stop (look the video, same problem).
When I turn wheel completely to the left stop, before plug it, the wheel could find the center. But it is not a issue, because in game the FFB was really soft and strange :( The centering was very light.

I finally found a PDF procedure and a EXE Tool from Thrustmaster you have to use on a PC. It recalibrates the wheel. The operation take about a minute and after the problem was solved for me.

So you have to :
- unplug the wheel from your PS4
- install last drivers on PC. Available here: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=1&fid=2&pid=376&cid=15
- use the PS3 switch mode
- turn wheel completely to the left stop and plug the wheel on PC. Test windows can see it in control panel / game controllers.
- update the firmware with the driver (use the "update firmware" in your windows start menu / Thurstmaster / FFB Racing wheel folder)
- when updated, Test windows can see it in control panel / game controllers again.
- unplug the wheel
- unscrew and remove the wheel from the t300 base
- launch the TXRW_CalibMotor_v3_00.exe tool
- plug the T300 to your PC again
- launch the procedure (details in this PDF)
- OK message when calibration is done
- screw the wheel again
- switch to PS4 and plug it back to your console. It finally works!

EDIT : You can downloadit here : https://www.dropbox.com/s/nuyde2ctkedma3d/T300-Calibration.zip?dl=0

I just share it here because I suppose it can happens to someone else :(

I'm crossing finger I was the last time I have this kind of problem...

EDIT : It did not solve the problem, it just can help a little before the problem starts again, see my last answer for more details

LeeGestuhl
27-08-2015, 10:14
Thanks for your detailed report. Never had this issue, but glad to hear of a solution that seems to work and may help someone who has this kind of issue.

Seubi42
29-08-2015, 12:23
Bad news everyone. This workaround I have shared (with the calibration software) seems to not correct the problem forever.
I have to do the procedure twice or three time a week now... After a 30 minute race I can feel the wheel is a little softer...
So I hesitate to exchange it with a logitech G29 now .... because I began to lose confidence in Thrustmaster products.

LeeGestuhl
29-08-2015, 16:13
I just experienced this same issue, guess I shouldn't have written in this thread, bad karma :(

To fix it, I simply turned the wheel to the very left before connecting. After connecting the wheel to the PS4, It moved a bit to the left and then fully right again, but then it moved back to the centre and worked like a charm :)
Not sure if I was just lucky, but maybe you could try this and see if it works.

therealzissou
29-08-2015, 17:57
I just experienced this same issue, guess I shouldn't have written in this thread, bad karma :(

To fix it, I simply turned the wheel to the very left before connecting. After connecting the wheel to the PS4, It moved a bit to the left and then fully right again, but then it moved back to the centre and worked like a charm :)
Not sure if I was just lucky, but maybe you could try this and see if it works.

I used both OPs fix and yours but ultimately my T300 GTE always went back to not calibrating after using it for a while; only ever a temporary fix.

I had a thread on this about a month or so ago but sadly the only permanent fix, for me at least, was getting a new wheel...

LeeGestuhl
30-08-2015, 09:45
Count in me as the next one with a non-working wheel :(

Had to try out the wheel today to see if its still behaving like yesterday, and it was... Turning it all the way to the left side to calibrate worked again, but after some short laps on different tracks, the wheel suddenly felt quite differently. It did not force itself to center anymore and even worse, every 20° of turning you could really feel kind of a snapping on the wheel, a position where the wheel wants to be, like center position. Changing through the different FFB presets did not change this at all, always felt the same.

So I just closed the game, disconnected the wheel and connected it again. This time, it did not even calibrate to the right side anymore, I had to push it by myself to make it move. The trick with turning it all the way to the left side does not work anymore, the wheel is unusable now! :mad:

Reading all this posts about bad wheels, I always thought its just bad luck for everyone who has problems with the wheel and this won't happen to me. But as of today there are so many people out there with broken wheels, this must be a known issue at thrustmaster. Whats interesting, you hear a lot more PS4 users complain about the T300 than PC users... I really want to know if this is a Thrustmaster issue or if the PS4 is to blame. Or even Project CARS with its too many FFB settings and pushing the wheel beyond its limit, because it cannot handle these forces (see FFB graph limiting out...).

As being a member from almost the beginning and always defending the game for friends and anyone, I am now at a point where I think about giving the wheel back and stop playing. Since the game launch on PS4 it was always a big fight to get the best experience out of it, but with all those FFB changes going on you never knew what you could expect and hearing all these stories with broken wheels doesn't make it any better.

I would really like to know whats going on, if getting a new T300 will be the final solution or if this will just happen again. Maybe the devs could even share some insights of what they are experiencing and shed some light on these wheel issues.
Sorry for this, maybe I just have to cool down for some hours...

the-D-
30-08-2015, 11:53
And now my turn, 2 days ago I started getting the exact thing happening to me every time I turn it on. Before I found this thread, I just stopped the continuous pattern seen in the above video, by grabbing the wheel and turning it all the way to the right hand stop, then left it to centre itself, seemed to work, but I lose FFB strength soon after. I only got this wheel last year, October I think, this shouldn't be happening,...what to do now?!?!

LeeGestuhl
30-08-2015, 13:41
Oh my, sad to hear this the-D- :( So you did play with it before on PC? How many hours did you put in on the PS4? I only used the wheel on the PS4 with Project CARS and used it for 26 hours, thats just ridiculous...
These issues are really bugging me, theres no way in getting a new T300 if its just a matter of time when this could happen again.

Is there anyone out there who is using a T300 for more than 50 hours on the PS4 and has all stuff like Force Feedback, Tire Force and Jack Spades settings set as supposed to really "use" the wheels strength?
What goes through my head is, that someone who is not playing around with the FFB / Jack Spades settings and therefore not getting the maximum out of the wheel, may not suffer from these issues...

To be honest, I don't know what to do... I really wanna drive, but there is so much negativity around, something has to be done fast on PS4 side.

the-D-
30-08-2015, 15:42
I've never used it on the PC, I got it solely for project cars, I've played more than 100 hours with the settings you described plus Jack Spades FFB thingy, I just think it's the wheel that's the problem, I may be wrong though.

Seubi42
31-08-2015, 07:07
I just experienced this same issue, guess I shouldn't have written in this thread, bad karma :(

To fix it, I simply turned the wheel to the very left before connecting. After connecting the wheel to the PS4, It moved a bit to the left and then fully right again, but then it moved back to the centre and worked like a charm :)
Not sure if I was just lucky, but maybe you could try this and see if it works.

Yes but when you start do that you can notice the FFB is less strongh than before. Feeling is different and impossible to do same time laps for me.
I start to call Thrustmaster to exchange mine. And I play with a g29 for the moment.

dangerousdriver
31-08-2015, 09:26
Yes but when you start do that you can notice the FFB is less strongh than before. Feeling is different and impossible to do same time laps for me.
I start to call Thrustmaster to exchange mine. And I play with a g29 for the moment.

How are you finding the G29 compared to the T300?

I have the same issue, I've had my T300 GTE for about four months now and had absolutely no issue playing Pcars, Driveclub, F1 2015.

Yesterday I tried using the updated FFB settings (Bumps Plus) on the spreadsheet.

There was a big difference in the strength of the FFB which I liked. The weight had in the wheel had increased and I felt more feedback through bumps etc.

Halfway through a race I had to pause for dinner, I paused the game for half hour and when I returned I noticed that the wheel suddenly had no FFB but vibration from the kerb was felt. I finished the race like this and then afterwards closed the game and removed the USB lead and plugged it back in to my PS4.

The wheel wouldn't calibrate correctly and began rotating hard to the right, then returning slowly to centre before going hard to the right again and again. I unplugged the wheel as to prevent any further damage.

I'm wondering whether the settings on the spreadsheet have fried the wheel?

Is this something SMS are aware of?

I've contacted Thrustmaster Customer support who are beginning a returns process, but I am considering going to the retailer here in the UK and requesting a different product or refund?

Eadie
31-08-2015, 09:45
I had the exact same issue with my T300 GTE, I tried everything to get it working but it always returned. I contacted Thrustmaster & the shop I bought it from at the same time. TM took about 3wk to reply & asked for a video but the shop had already paid for the return of the wheel, sent it off to Thrustmaster & given me a credit note. I used this credit note to upgrade to a T500 which I have been using for a week or two & I wish I had bought the T500 to start with. It's a serious piece of kit & makes the T300 feel like a toy
If you still have warranty left, send it back to where you got it & see if you can upgrade :)

Seubi42
31-08-2015, 11:09
How are you finding the G29 compared to the T300?


- I prefer the Force Feedback of the T300. The G29 is not enough strong to feel the car slide (oversteer / understeer) as the T300 does. FFB is like G27. You can sometime feel the gears inside. TM win this point.
- I prefer the buttons and layout of the G29: more controls to map than the T300 (you can map brake balance), the leather and the shape is more confortable after a long run for me.

When TM will fix and return my wheel... I think I will switch back to T300. FFB is more important for me. But I will see.


The wheel wouldn't calibrate correctly and began rotating hard to the right, then returning slowly to centre before going hard to the right again and again.

It is exactly the same problem than me. I have never change anything in FFB options. And my FFB force was about 80%.
So it is not due to the spreadsheet values.
You can use the calibration software to fix it temporary before playing. (Procedure in my first post). But, You have to call TM Support to exchange or the repair the wheel. One technician of the support said they finally have fixed the problem with a stronger version of an internal part. So new wheels on the market will be ok, and they "upgrade" (fix) this when you send to support.

LeeGestuhl
31-08-2015, 14:21
...One technician of the support said they finally have fixed the problem with a stronger version of an internal part. So new wheels on the market will be ok, and they "upgrade" (fix) this when you send to support.

That is quite interesting and good news to hear :) Do you have this in written form or could share even more info about it? Because now it definitely seems to be hardware problem causing all this, so sending the wheel back for repair / exchange is a good option in my eyes. Maybe too strong FFB settings just helped to arise this issue...

I also tried your advice from the first post in this thread, worked like a charm, thanks for that ;) I have been using the wheel now with the PC Version of the game and Jack Spades settings, calibrated like day one and Force Feedback feels strong again. But as you said, this is just a temporary fix, how long did it take in your case when the wheel started feeling weak again and did not calibrate?

Seubi42
31-08-2015, 14:35
No it is just a technician of the french hotline who said that... So I don't know if it's true, or if it was just to reassure me :D
But he said they learn a lot from this issue because they had a lot of case.
Yes, he also said project cars with 100% FFB was a great accelerator for their problem :D

First time I use the calibration too, the wheel was ok for 2 days long so I was very happy and believe the problem was solved :)
But now, I have to do the calibration procedure before plug in it to my PS4 every time (some times twice a day). :nightmare:

Daantjahz
11-11-2015, 15:57
So it seams i am not the only one with this problem. I emailed TM and received the link for the calibration software.
after i did it, the wheel felt great. after a few rounds ( 5 ) i turned the ps4 off.

an hour and a half later i started up the ps4 and guess what? the problem is back.
so i emailed TM again regarding this issue.

now waiting for their response.


BTW - does anyone have a wheel that locks when it bangs to left or right?
mine does, and when you turn it out of the lock, it bumps over something. Also at the axle of the wheel where it goes in to the servo base it looks like it is a bit worn. its white where it should be black. i try to upload a picture.221836

Daantjahz
11-11-2015, 16:36
now this: http://youtu.be/eWbP5BlHMJw

Ravellron
12-11-2015, 08:55
your t300rs setting degrees in game? 1080 or 900? which value do you use for FF and TF?

Daantjahz
12-11-2015, 20:09
900 degrees

Already contacted Thrustmaster, i must say they have a excellent helpdesk.
they said it is badly damaged.
I need to send them the servo base, now hoping it won't take too long:)

Kenjib310
26-02-2016, 02:41
UPDATED BELOW: A sincere thank you to Seubi42 for posting this, seriously! The steps did get my t300rs back to what feels like it was before the right turn shimming slam issue at start up...at least thats how I describe that awesomeness!! So far so good, and the wheel after an hour of play gave good ffb and experience in pCars. So ty again, beer bought for you if ever in San Pedro,CA!!

Ok, I can't believe this POS! lol Talk about loosing my wood within a 24hr period. I just went upstairs with the enthusiasm of a school girl to have a little drive time after a long week slaving! I start the PS4, the t300rs (which is all of sub 2 months old) attempts to calibrate itself. Whips itself right, then left with fury......,and just continues to do that...won't stop, back and forth...bang to one side...bang to the other.

I'm going to take a time out and find the courage to attempt the same ish I did yesterday to correct this behavior initially reported in this thread. However, from a user perspective I feel as if to kick myself for not getting a G29.

Btw, to add a bit more humor to this reality. I called Thrustmaster support line shortly after 4pm pst, only to be greeted by a recording saying the support dept is closed and only available Mon-Fri from X time to 8pm est. Wait a second, they should be open right now....quality! Ok I'm going to try to see if I can get some online help before doing these steps again..thanks all!

fishfash
29-02-2016, 16:17
Does anybody know what hardware parts are required for a permanent fix?

The fix on the first page is a temporary fix for 10 minutes at the most on my setup. Thanks.

havocc
29-02-2016, 16:43
I had the exact same issue with my T300 GTE, I tried everything to get it working but it always returned. I contacted Thrustmaster & the shop I bought it from at the same time. TM took about 3wk to reply & asked for a video but the shop had already paid for the return of the wheel, sent it off to Thrustmaster & given me a credit note. I used this credit note to upgrade to a T500 which I have been using for a week or two & I wish I had bought the T500 to start with. It's a serious piece of kit & makes the T300 feel like a toy
If you still have warranty left, send it back to where you got it & see if you can upgrade :)

T500 is the way for, for 100€ you get a super strong and sturdy wheel and t3pa-pro that are wayy better than those crappy t300 pedals

Prontopac
18-03-2016, 04:25
The T300 is only for PS3 platforms. At least here in the U.S. I don't think pCars works on PS3 platforms.

TimNiceButDim
29-11-2016, 19:12
I am having this issue now. I have a thrustmaster t300rs and have been playing with Jack Spade's ffb settings.
Please could somebody give me a step by step guide of what to do to resolve this issue?
I bought it on Amazon in July and I can't return it.

Daantjahz
29-11-2016, 20:04
Hé Guys, just contact Thrustmaster if this issue stays.
They helped me. My system was badly damaged so i received a new base

aor1200
17-04-2017, 20:03
Yeah ok... but unfortuntly I do that and the wheel after 15 mins feels strange centering I'm getting really disapointed with thrustmaster...
Any ideas how to solve it??

zregnier
22-08-2017, 17:26
Does anyone know what it takes to repair this issue ourselves? If not, I'm debating whether or not I should buy a new base or send in my broken one to Thrustmaster for repair. Thrustmaster can't tell me how much it will cost until they get the wheel and diagnose it. It'll cost me shipping plus $60 diagnostics, and then the cost of replacement parts. It's hard to imagine I'd spend less than $200, so should I just order a new base and get an extended warranty?

jrbwd6
26-09-2017, 21:26
i couldnt get the gt29 to work on pc2 on ps4 any ideas it wouldnt find the wheel in opions menu of the game

FRANCOIS38200
11-04-2018, 17:42
hi the link was dead any one have the TXRW_CalibMotor_v3_00.exe on her PC please

meloil
06-07-2018, 22:04
Does anyone here can send me another links? I'm having the same problem now, but the links for PDF and .exe are expired

Daantjahz
07-07-2018, 08:17
Does anyone here can send me another links? I'm having the same problem now, but the links for PDF and .exe are expired

My T300 died 2 weeks a go, i think i have the calibration tookfor you. Dm me your email afress

Seubi42
10-10-2018, 13:45
Hi everyone,

I'm giving an update because someone report me a broken link for the tool

Of course, i reupload the file here : https://www.dropbox.com/s/nuyde2ctkedma3d/T300-Calibration.zip?dl=0

I left the PS4, now i'm playing on iracing with a direct drive but i know well this problem, i had it 2 times !
So i owned three different TM T300 base! the support changes mine for free 2 times. (second time it was after the end of the warranty but they did it,so try to ask too), that is the nice part of the story :)

But It's really and hardware problem, the calibration software tool can help you to play some days before it will restart again more and more often.

Because of the two time problem, the support guy on TM said me a little more. He said to me PCARS1 send really hard instruction to FFB and it maybe contributes to this problem on T300. The default FFB of Pcars1 on console is also really too powerfull and need to be low. For exemple this problem is really rare on PC simulation users. After PCARS1 was release they had a lot of problem with T300. So maybe it is a good idea to lower the FFB on this game... I'm not an hardware expert, and i don't know anything about pcars2, i just share what he said to me on phone :)