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Pikamark
28-08-2015, 22:11
Haven't had a chance to play yet as at work but are people still using the same settings they were in versio 2.0 or is it reset calibrate and start ove

Thanks

Schnizz58
28-08-2015, 22:12
I didn't change a thing and it still feels the same as before 3.0 (which was very good btw). I did change steering deadzone back to 0 because every patch seems to think I want it set to 1.

Dynomight Motorsports
28-08-2015, 22:40
I got to try mine for 3 hours before my replacement wheel died. I had to wait 5 business days for the insurance to reimburse me, then another 5 business days to get the new wheel, then 3 hours in it dies! Call up Thrustmaster and guess what... Another 5 business days to get a new base! WTF???

Schnizz58
29-08-2015, 01:18
Holy crap dude...

nissan4ever
29-08-2015, 01:33
FFB 100
Tire Force 75

I left everything else default on the Force Feedback Calibration Screen (where tire force is located).

Pikamark
29-08-2015, 07:42
Thanks guys hopefully get on later today

justonce68
29-08-2015, 07:44
All the same with mine

tonypbeck
29-08-2015, 08:05
i added 15 to my tyre force but nothing else

nissan4ever
29-08-2015, 08:25
i added 15 to my tyre force but nothing else

So did I. I went from 60, to a 75 for my tire force. LOL :)

Exup
29-08-2015, 08:43
Hi Guys,

I'm having problems in replicating what I had before 3.0...

Now the ffb is stupid strong (I have now the tire force at 50)l..


The problem is that there are no "profiles" as it was stated in the release notes... profile for 1.4 and 2.0 ffb settings....
Or am I missing some option??

Playing with the Ford Cobra Mustang at Nordschleif is a nightmare now :D

"New – the Force Feedback Calibration screen now features a multiple force feedback profile selection system whereby the user can select a base FFB style that suits personal preference, and then tweak it further as desired. You can now switch between current FFB settings (Default) and pre-1.4 (classic) by using the FFB Calibration presets. These presets are available under Options > Controls > Calibrate Force Feedback. The presets are set on top of this page and the new sliders to control the spring/steering effect are at the bottom. Whenever you change these values it becomes a custom preset. You can switch back to either Default or Classic by selecting them at the top of this page.
"

inthebagbud
29-08-2015, 09:06
Yes the presets seem to be missing http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38143-New-FFB-presets-MISSING

Reinart86
29-08-2015, 10:10
I've just spend the entire morning trying to get some good ffb. I think i finally found what i was looking for. :) Try these settings and let me know what you think of them guys.


216548


216549


Ffb still too strong? Raise soft clipping (full output) or lower tire force.

Ps. I use these settings in conjunction with jack spades car specific ffb tweaker files.

MrLiister
29-08-2015, 11:59
I'm having an absolute blast with this setup in conjunction with Jack's 66% V2 settings.

216558

inthebagbud
29-08-2015, 13:17
For sometime something has been nagging away at me but couldn't put my finger on it and have just realised what it is - if I have any type of impact such as other car or barrier whilst this shown in the ffb graph nothing is registered by the wheel.

Are you supposed to be able to feel this through the wheel?

Didd31
29-08-2015, 13:43
I didn't change anything and it still feels the same as before 3.0

i had just to lauch on demand the game with the Wheel's "menu" button , if i press wheel's "A" button the pad is set as current controler on the controler option menu.

the sms default FFB setting are on the "origin" tab, my 2.0 FFB tweak calibration has been keep on the "custom" tab.

so all is fine for me.

xbOxOne, tx trustmaster, main FFB 50%, main tires Force 100, the new output gain set to 1 as SMS has set this.

d4ninho
29-08-2015, 14:44
the new start the game with the A button is due to the fact they have dumbed down the driving for controller players who are there more casual player base and are the ones they really want playing the game.

Wheel users having spent money on a wheel will play the game for a longer period of time and therefore demand games work right and are supported for at least 2 years.
controller players are more casual and are happy to play every so often and are happy to buy the new version of a game every year.( money, developers chase these players)

PTG Ty1er Ward
29-08-2015, 16:10
the new start the game with the A button is due to the fact they have dumbed down the driving for controller players who are there more casual player base and are the ones they really want playing the game.

Wheel users having spent money on a wheel will play the game for a longer period of time and therefore demand games work right and are supported for at least 2 years.
controller players are more casual and are happy to play every so often and are happy to buy the new version of a game every year.( money, developers chase these players)

That's a pretty good theory, here's another one: now that the controller and wheel can be active simultaneously, when you sign into the game with your profile, using the Menu button to sign in from the controller can make the controller the primary input device and/or cause conflicts. Moving it to the A button helps Wheel users by preventing them from unintentially making the controller primary control instead of the wheel. It's an XBOX "issue" that even Forza has problems with.

On a related note- if you plan on chatting while racing you should have the controller connected via USB (not wireless). If it's not wired, it will eventually go to sleep and waking it up can randomly make it the "primary" controller and the wheel goes dead on you in the middle of a race.

Pikamark
29-08-2015, 16:52
You all obviously like really strong ffb with it on default 100 and tyres at 60 it still feels to hard to get round corners quick

MrLiister
29-08-2015, 18:18
On a related note- if you plan on chatting while racing you should have the controller connected via USB (not wireless). If it's not wired, it will eventually go to sleep and waking it up can randomly make it the "primary" controller and the wheel goes dead on you in the middle of a race.

Ha so that's what happened then, didn't click at the time. Thanks PTG now I know!

Benja190782
29-08-2015, 20:46
I don't think I understand the FFB to be honest - I run FFB at 100 and TC at 100, but lower the strength of every single car in setups - for example the GT3 Ruf goes from 26 to 12, and it feels better but not great.

It's like.. No matter how I tweak it - the strength is always too much around the center of the TX wheel, and it feels way too hard to turn in corners.

Please help..

PTG Ty1er Ward
29-08-2015, 21:06
I don't think I understand the FFB to be honest - I run FFB at 100 and TC at 100, but lower the strength of every single car in setups - for example the GT3 Ruf goes from 26 to 12, and it feels better but not great.

It's like.. No matter how I tweak it - the strength is always too much around the center of the TX wheel, and it feels way too hard to turn in corners.

Please help..

Try setting your Steering Gain at 1.00 or lower. FFB preset "default" is 3.00. FFB preset "Classic" is 1.00. It doesn't matter which one you use, changes you make will become the new "Custom" preset.

Strydervip
29-08-2015, 21:27
FFB Strength 100

Steering Gain .75

Tire Force 90

Per Wheel Movement 00

Per Wheel Movement Squared 00

Wheel Position Smoothing .04

Deadzone Removal Range .10

Deadzone Removal Falloff .10

Linkage Scale. .00

Linkage Stiffness 1.00

Linkage Damping 1.00

Relative Adjust Gain 1.10

Relative Adjust Bleed .52

Relative Adjust Clamp 1.08

Scoop Knee. .50

Scoop Reduction .24

Soft Clipping (Half Input) 0

Soft Clipping (Full Output) 0

Menu spring. .02

Low speed spring Co .04

Low speed spring sat. 1.00



This is what I'm running on my Tx and I really loving it! I can actually get back control of the car after the rear end breaks lose!! Give it a try! Opinions needed also running jack spades 66% setting

Dynomight Motorsports
29-08-2015, 22:37
I need to try something that won't kill my wheel. I burned my up my first one, then replaced it with a new one only to have it die after 3 hours of racing. I was running at 85 tire Force and 100 FFB. I like a very firm feel to my wheel, but I don't know if that's what killed it or just shitty workmanship on TM's part.

Strydervip
29-08-2015, 23:08
I need to try something that won't kill my wheel. I burned my up my first one, then replaced it with a new one only to have it die after 3 hours of racing. I was running at 85 tire Force and 100 FFB. I like a very firm feel to my wheel, but I don't know if that's what killed it or just shitty workmanship on TM's part.

Hate that for you man! I haven't had the first problem out of mine.knock on wood

nissan4ever
30-08-2015, 01:56
just "bad" workmanship on TM's part.

You mean bad workmanship at the factory in China where the TX's are manufactured. Could be faulty parts batches used during the manufacturing of the TX.

I'll be putting 100's of more hrs on my TX after patch 3.0. Game is pretty much on point now. As a matter of fact, getting on it in a few mins.

I'm honestly pleasantly surprised how long my TX has lasted. I have a launch batch wheel. 500+ hrs thus far. Hopefully another 500+ hrs. The TX had a terrible failure rate at launch.

STEELJOCKEY
30-08-2015, 02:22
I have a launch TX as well, never had a problem, flogged it in FM5 and pCars. Wheel just keeps going and going.

I'd say with the sudden rush on wheels (maybe thanks in part to this game), the manufacturers have rush things to keep up with demand and there are some faulty parts in the latest batches. Hopefully TM will get fed up with replacing faulty wheels and sort out the manufacturer. Not good for TM's credibility otherwise.

Dazza
30-08-2015, 02:30
is it ok to lower Steering Gain under 1. i set mine to 0.60 as i felt the when turning corners the ffb was way to strong. 0.60 feels good, but if i set steering gains to low will if stuff up any other settings? is it better to leave it at 1 and adjust other settings?

PTG Ty1er Ward
30-08-2015, 03:01
is it ok to lower Steering Gain under 1. i set mine to 0.60 as i felt the when turning corners the ffb was way to strong. 0.60 feels good, but if i set steering gains to low will if stuff up any other settings? is it better to leave it at 1 and adjust other settings?

If you are happy at 0.60 then that's fine. Steering Gain is a personal preference within a certain window. Outside of that window on a TX causes more problems and band-aids than you can count depending on the rest of your FFB settings. Based on the default TX linear force step logs input/output graphs I've seen and tinkered with, 0.60 is most likely OK, and you're happy with it.

Exup
30-08-2015, 09:25
Another happy driver with lowering the Steering gain (in my case to 0.40) and leaving there the FFB=100 and Tire force=100

On top of this, just needed to configure the jack of spades settings et Voilá... :D

Try driving the Ford Mustang Trans am @Nordschleife with the steering gain to 1 and tell me if it works... (not :D )

Ixoye56
30-08-2015, 09:38
I don't like excessively strong FFB, I want it more natural, so I use the Main FFB at 100% and Tireforce at 50%, combined with Jack's Fy + SopLateral settings, and that feels great to me.

RoccoTTS
30-08-2015, 09:56
I don't like excessively strong FFB, I want it more natural, so I use the Main FFB at 100% and Tireforce at 50%, combined with Jack's Fy + SopLateral settings, and that feels great to me.

I use exactly the same settings

Lagoa
30-08-2015, 10:58
I've noticed at race start the wheel is stuck at centre spring and you have to jerk it a little to get out of the initial lock. And then you can start racing, weird stuff

baz00ka
30-08-2015, 11:33
i did the same thing. funnily enough i ended up with 60 gain as well. another thing i did after that was to get rid of soft clipper (both at 0 now). what i plan to do is to figure out new values for soft clipper and increase the gain to about 75 (it clips otherwise with tyre/force both at 100) and that i think would be the best i could get with TX. the rest of ffb settings i kept like i had before the patch 3. this is also with 2.0 jack spade 66% tweaks.


is it ok to lower Steering Gain under 1. i set mine to 0.60 as i felt the when turning corners the ffb was way to strong. 0.60 feels good, but if i set steering gains to low will if stuff up any other settings? is it better to leave it at 1 and adjust other settings?

TAGS Battfink
30-08-2015, 11:45
Haven't had a chance to play yet as at work but are people still using the same settings they were in versio 2.0 or is it reset calibrate and start ove

Thanks

This is the first time i havent had to change anything. Loaded up the game, jumped on my rig and went straight into race, everything felt identical, all good so far.

Strydervip
30-08-2015, 13:34
FFB Strength 100

Steering Gain .70

Tire Force 90

Per Wheel Movement 00

Per Wheel Movement Squared 00

Wheel Position Smoothing .04

Deadzone Removal Range .10

Deadzone Removal Falloff .10

Linkage Scale. .00

Linkage Stiffness 1.00

Linkage Damping 1.00

Relative Adjust Gain 1.10

Relative Adjust Bleed .52

Relative Adjust Clamp 1.08

Scoop Knee. .50

Scoop Reduction .24

Soft Clipping (Half Input) 0

Soft Clipping (Full Output) 0

Menu spring. .02

Low speed spring Co .04

Low speed spring sat. 1.00

Steering Gain .70



This is what I'm running on my Tx and I really loving it! I can actually get back control of the car after the rear end breaks lose!! Give it a try! Opinions needed also running jack spades 66% setting

I made some changes now you feel it get heavy under braking and loose during acceleration! Feels great!

Haiden
30-08-2015, 15:28
Personally, I think adjusting Steering Gain is the way to go, once you'd found your balance with the other forces and getting the level of detail you want, because Steering Gain is a multiplier, applied to the calculated force. So it increases/decreases everything evenly, preserving whatever balance you've created with the other settings. :)

Also, the TX is pretty much the Xb1 version of the T300. There's a discussion thread for tuning with a lot of great info and suggestion. I haven't yet, but plan to apply my PS4 settings to my Xb1.

Just make sure you read through the thread, before posting questions. It helps keep it from getting cluttered and repetitive. Also, no arguing. Thread isn't about right and wrong, it's about sharing experiences and letting people pick and choose what they want. You'll see the saying, Your Wheel. Your Feel. throughout the thread, which basically sums it up.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?37548-Post-3-0-T300-wheel-settings-post-you-preferred-settings

Seps1974
30-08-2015, 16:19
I made some changes now you feel it get heavy under braking and loose during acceleration! Feels great!

I like your settings, but have set Tire Force to 65 and Steering Gain to 60, mainly because it's very hot at the moment here in Portugal and the TX overheats easily and I still get a good feeling with those settings.

inthebagbud
31-08-2015, 11:06
These are my settings

Note FFB is at 75 and I know people say it should be 100 but it works for me . Tested with RUF RGT 8 GT3 and Fomula Rookie at Oulton Park with car FFB at game default

DRR and Scoop settings derived from this thread http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35147-Linear-FFB-Google-sheet-Universal and are very much wheel dependent based on age and overall usage

216719

Elaine The Racer
31-08-2015, 16:14
I'm really struggling to love PCARS since 3.0, my wheel feels super light and just doesn't feel right, I want decent FFB but I don't want what I have now feels sluggish & I use jack spades classic settings, if anyone can help that would be great

Schnizz58
31-08-2015, 16:17
I'm really struggling to love PCARS since 3.0, my wheel feels super light and just doesn't feel right, I want decent FFB but I don't want what I have now feels sluggish & I use jack spades classic settings, if anyone can help that would be great
As always, start with tire force to get your overall strength how you like it. Then you can start fiddling with other stuff after that.

Haiden
31-08-2015, 16:20
I'm really struggling to love PCARS since 3.0, my wheel feels super light and just doesn't feel right, I want decent FFB but I don't want what I have now feels sluggish & I use jack spades classic settings, if anyone can help that would be great

Posted this in the T300 thread. The settings should work with the TX, since they're basically the same. :)

Here are the settings I'm going with. I've tried them out in other classes, but the Formula C was the main car I was using to tune. I’m including my car level FFB settings, as well. That way you can duplicate my exact settings and get a better idea of what I was feeling. I’m using Jack Spade’s latest SoP + Lateral settings. I tried Classic, and that also felt fine—a little more tightness and weight to the wheel, though. In the end, I decided to go with the SoP + Lateral settings, because they felt a bit smoother. With these global settings, I always end up adding about 8-12 increments onto Spade's Master Scale and SoP Scale recommendations, and add a little bit of smoothing to the four primary force scales (Fx, Fy, Fz, and Mz)—typically anywhere from 10-30, depending on the strength of the force scale. I try to leave Fz Smoothing set to 0, because it's the scale that communicates bumps, curbs, and road texture. But if the ride is too rough, I'll add a click of smoothing (10 increments), but I've never used a setting higher than 10 for the Fz scale.

This setup gave me the best dynamic range of feedback. I can feel brake pressure, understeer and oversteer, lift, when the backend is about to step out, and have a good general feeling of grip. On the outlap, the wheel retains good tension, but feels a bit lighter, giving me a sense of the cold tires. As the tires warm, the wheel grows tighter and heavier. When tires are at optimal temperatures, I can feel the full grip in the wheel, and don’t need the tire icons to tell me I can start pushing it. The feeling is just there. I can also feel the effect off tire wear, with the wheel beginning to feel less and less grippy in correspondence with the wear shown on the tire icons.

I’ve also tried this setup with different Steering Gains. If you like the dynamic feel of the settings, but want stronger FFB in general. I recommend using Steering Gain to do it, because it’s a multiplier and increases the calculated force for the wheel (the force after all other settings have been applied) preserving the balance, and therefore the detail. Although, I did notice the higher the Steering Gain, the less range of pressure I could feel in the brakes. So, it looks like it’s a tradeoff between that and overall strength. Still, a Steering Gain of 0.95 felt much heavier than I would ever use, but still retained a decent amount of brake detail.

Any setting not listed, is running at default. These adjustments were made to the Default FFB Profile, creating the new Custom Setting.

Force Feedback = 100
Tire Force = 45

Relative Adjust Gain = 1.0
Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.05
Relative Adjust Clamp = 0.95

Scoop Knee = 0.50
Scoop Reduction = 0.15

Menu Spring = 0.25
Low Speed Spring Coefficient = 0.75
Low Speed Spring Saturation = 0.30

Steering Gain = 0.86 (Can be used to increase or decrease overall FFB strength—recommend 0.82 – 0.95)

Car Level Settings – Formula C

Master Scale = 50
Fx Scale = 100
Fy Scale = 26
Fz Scale = 100
Mz Scale = 80

Fx Smoothing = 30
Fy Smoothing = 20
Fz Smoothing = 10
Mz Smoothing = 20

Arm Angle = 3000

SoP Scale = 50
SoP Lateral Scale = 50
SoP Differntial Scale = 100
SoP Damping = 0

Elaine The Racer
31-08-2015, 16:22
Thanks I'll try it niw

Elaine The Racer
31-08-2015, 16:51
Found your settings also "light" I want to increase the weight, just lack that oomph

beetes_juice
31-08-2015, 16:57
Found your settings also "light" I want to increase the weight, just lack that oomph

Either TF up to around 60-75 or up the master/sop in the in-car tunning.

Haiden
31-08-2015, 17:02
Found your settings also "light" I want to increase the weight, just lack that oomph

Really? It's a little light on the out lap, but the weight comes to the wheel as the tires warm up. Try increasing Steering Gain, that will strengthen the overall force. I admit, I'm not a fan of heavy oversaturated FFB. IMO, heavy setups lack dynamic range and detail. I want to feel more than just weight in the corners. I tested the settings with a Steering Gain of 0.95. That was way too heavy for me, but the detail was still there. You can raise Steering Gain as high as you want. If you like the detail balance of the settings, but the strength is light, then Steering Gain is the way to go. Otherwise, you can adjust TF, to bring more lateral force into the mix, but you'll probably be sacrificing detail with that increase, because TF will begin to overpower the other forces in those spectrums.

Elaine The Racer
01-09-2015, 11:16
Really? It's a little light on the out lap, but the weight comes to the wheel as the tires warm up. Try increasing Steering Gain, that will strengthen the overall force. I admit, I'm not a fan of heavy oversaturated FFB. IMO, heavy setups lack dynamic range and detail. I want to feel more than just weight in the corners. I tested the settings with a Steering Gain of 0.95. That was way too heavy for me, but the detail was still there. You can raise Steering Gain as high as you want. If you like the detail balance of the settings, but the strength is light, then Steering Gain is the way to go. Otherwise, you can adjust TF, to bring more lateral force into the mix, but you'll probably be sacrificing detail with that increase, because TF will begin to overpower the other forces in those spectrums.

I did a solid 5 laps in the P20 and it was light, I've upped the TF to 150 and finally get the resistance I want, I guess I prefer a heavy wheel I also kart which is heavy so that might be why

Strydervip
01-09-2015, 16:11
I did a solid 5 laps in the P20 and it was light, I've upped the TF to 150 and finally get the resistance I want, I guess I prefer a heavy wheel I also kart which is heavy so that might be why

Need to go to your telemetry hud and watch your force feed back grid in the upper left corner. You should see sharp peaks and like rolling waves in the graph! If you see table tops (flat areas on top of waves) and solid peaks of yellow line. You are Clipping your wheel and loosing the fine details. This will help you find the sweet spot for your feel in the wheel with out losing the details

Jezza819
01-09-2015, 17:17
What exactly do each of the new center spring settings control? I haven't played around with them yet.

Lethal 556
01-09-2015, 17:20
I made some changes now you feel it get heavy under braking and loose during acceleration! Feels great!

Gave this setup a try lastnight and I'm really enjoying it and seems to suit my liking. Thanks for posting +1

Strydervip
02-09-2015, 03:02
FFB Strength 100

Steering Gain .75

Tire Force 90

Per Wheel Movement 00

Per Wheel Movement Squared 00

Wheel Position Smoothing .04

Deadzone Removal Range .10

Deadzone Removal Falloff .10

Linkage Scale. .00

Linkage Stiffness 1.00

Linkage Damping 1.00

Relative Adjust Gain 1.10

Relative Adjust Bleed .52

Relative Adjust Clamp 1.08

Scoop Knee. .50

Scoop Reduction .24

Soft Clipping (Half Input) 0

Soft Clipping (Full Output) 0

Menu spring. .02

Low speed spring Co .04

Low speed spring sat. 1.00



This is what I'm running on my Tx and I really loving it! I can actually get back control of the car after the rear end breaks lose!! Give it a try! Opinions needed also running jack spades 66% setting

Made some more changes since jack spade 66% version 2.2 setting added some Smoothing to the mix!

Strydervip
02-09-2015, 03:13
Gave this setup a try lastnight and I'm really enjoying it and seems to suit my liking. Thanks for posting +1

Thanks! Try the new one since the new jack spade settings added Smoothing! I just added a little more steering gain! Still no Clipping! Really love the Ford Capri Zac speed on Nurburgring with this!

Olijke Poffer
02-09-2015, 12:46
Posted this in the T300 thread. The settings should work with the TX, since they're basically the same. :)

Here are the settings I'm going with. I've tried them out in other classes, but the Formula C was the main car I was using to tune. I’m including my car level FFB settings, as well. That way you can duplicate my exact settings and get a better idea of what I was feeling. I’m using Jack Spade’s latest SoP + Lateral settings. I tried Classic, and that also felt fine—a little more tightness and weight to the wheel, though. In the end, I decided to go with the SoP + Lateral settings, because they felt a bit smoother. With these global settings, I always end up adding about 8-12 increments onto Spade's Master Scale and SoP Scale recommendations, and add a little bit of smoothing to the four primary force scales (Fx, Fy, Fz, and Mz)—typically anywhere from 10-30, depending on the strength of the force scale. I try to leave Fz Smoothing set to 0, because it's the scale that communicates bumps, curbs, and road texture. But if the ride is too rough, I'll add a click of smoothing (10 increments), but I've never used a setting higher than 10 for the Fz scale.

This setup gave me the best dynamic range of feedback. I can feel brake pressure, understeer and oversteer, lift, when the backend is about to step out, and have a good general feeling of grip. On the outlap, the wheel retains good tension, but feels a bit lighter, giving me a sense of the cold tires. As the tires warm, the wheel grows tighter and heavier. When tires are at optimal temperatures, I can feel the full grip in the wheel, and don’t need the tire icons to tell me I can start pushing it. The feeling is just there. I can also feel the effect off tire wear, with the wheel beginning to feel less and less grippy in correspondence with the wear shown on the tire icons.

I’ve also tried this setup with different Steering Gains. If you like the dynamic feel of the settings, but want stronger FFB in general. I recommend using Steering Gain to do it, because it’s a multiplier and increases the calculated force for the wheel (the force after all other settings have been applied) preserving the balance, and therefore the detail. Although, I did notice the higher the Steering Gain, the less range of pressure I could feel in the brakes. So, it looks like it’s a tradeoff between that and overall strength. Still, a Steering Gain of 0.95 felt much heavier than I would ever use, but still retained a decent amount of brake detail.

Any setting not listed, is running at default. These adjustments were made to the Default FFB Profile, creating the new Custom Setting.

Force Feedback = 100
Tire Force = 45

Relative Adjust Gain = 1.0
Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.5
Relative Adjust Clamp = 0.95

Scoop Knee = 0.50
Scoop Reduction = 0.15

Menu Spring = 0.25
Low Speed Spring Coefficient = 0.75
Low Speed Spring Saturation = 0.30

Steering Gain = 0.86 (Can be used to increase or decrease overall FFB strength—recommend 0.82 – 0.95)

Car Level Settings – Formula C

Master Scale = 50
Fx Scale = 100
Fy Scale = 26
Fz Scale = 100
Mz Scale = 80

Fx Smoothing = 30
Fy Smoothing = 20
Fz Smoothing = 10
Mz Smoothing = 20

Arm Angle = 3000

SoP Scale = 50
SoP Lateral Scale = 50
SoP Differntial Scale = 100
SoP Damping = 0

Used your settings on my TX Wheel And I must admit it feels nice.

mavrick2020
02-09-2015, 14:07
I got to try mine for 3 hours before my replacement wheel died. I had to wait 5 business days for the insurance to reimburse me, then another 5 business days to get the new wheel, then 3 hours in it dies! Call up Thrustmaster and guess what... Another 5 business days to get a new base! WTF???

Same here as far as the TX wheel goes, is yours doing the hard slamming when trying to calibrate? funny thing is the 2 I have had the issue with have been after Project Cars updates 1st on 1.4 and now on 3.0.

Haiden
02-09-2015, 17:27
Found your settings also "light" I want to increase the weight, just lack that oomph

Last night I realized there was a typo in my post. Relative Adjust Bleed should be 0.05, not 0.5. I think that might be why it felt to weak for you. I thought that was strange. :)

I've already corrected it in the post above.

Lethal 556
02-09-2015, 18:19
Thanks! Try the new one since the new jack spade settings added Smoothing! I just added a little more steering gain! Still no Clipping! Really love the Ford Capri Zac speed on Nurburgring with this!

Yes I will check it out, I actually like using the jack spades bumps plus classic settings I will give the 66% a try

PowerCRUX
03-09-2015, 08:04
Hi guys...i need some informations..
After patch 3.0 i've delete my saved data..
I had to recalibrate my TX Wheel..: on the second step how many degrees for the right calibration? 900?
Another little question...
I have not downloaded the new firmware V49 ... it is fundamental?
Thanks:cool:

AtomicSphincter
03-09-2015, 08:34
Hi guys...i need some informations..
After patch 3.0 i've delete my saved data..
I had to recalibrate my TX Wheel..: on the second step how many degrees for the right calibration? 900?
Another little question...
I have not downloaded the new firmware V49 ... it is fundamental?
Thanks:cool:

900 is what you're looking for during calibration. From what I understand V49 has to do with pCars changing degrees of rotation depending on the car you chose to drive. Before v49 you had to manually adjust DOR for each car, 900 for road cars, 540 for gt3, and 270 for FA.

PowerCRUX
03-09-2015, 08:54
900 is what you're looking for during calibration. From what I understand V49 has to do with pCars changing degrees of rotation depending on the car you chose to drive. Before v49 you had to manually adjust DOR for each car, 900 for road cars, 540 for gt3, and 270 for FA.

Sure? 900 degrees is not on 90° angle on my TX...
Before v49,for my experience, DOR it was already automatically adjusted for each car...

nissan4ever
03-09-2015, 11:01
Sure? 900 degrees is not on 90° angle on my TX...
Before v49,for my experience, DOR it was already automatically adjusted for each car...

When you calibrate your TX, you want your base to be on 900°. When you get to the turn 90° part, 900 will be number on the screen.
217107

Dynomight Motorsports
04-09-2015, 01:42
Same here as far as the TX wheel goes, is yours doing the hard slamming when trying to calibrate? funny thing is the 2 I have had the issue with have been after Project Cars updates 1st on 1.4 and now on 3.0.
No, it didn't do anything. No lights no life.. But after reading all these it might just be too much Tire Force. I unboxed it Friday after Patch 3.0 and ran what I've always run which is 100% FFB and 100 TF with the default settings. I like a firm a wheel, I'm a big guy/gym rat, so the strength was not an issue for me. But it may have just been too much for the wheel. Anyway, I've got another base coming, and after I cut the USB cable and send TM the pic, I'm taking that bitch apart and seeing what failed. I'm a technician and it's just got me itching to see what failed on it. I plan to do a full write up and send it to TM to fall upon deaf ears. Just like the engineers of the biomedical equipment I work on, LoL.

Schnizz58
04-09-2015, 02:52
I'm looking forward to seeing that.

nissan4ever
04-09-2015, 12:14
My TX has been performing well with this patch. I've been running FFB 75 & Tire Force 75. The only thing that isn't default for the rest of the settings are....
my throttle deadzone is 0 & sensitivity is 30.

I've also been using Jack Spade's latest spreadsheet version. Running SopLateral Mix chart. Love the slight tweaks to the chart numbers. Really has the wheel feeling great. Absolute joy to drive with the TX on Project CARS.

HenTheKing
04-09-2015, 18:08
I prefer the 66% to the classic settings that's for sure! Instead of having a huge 'chunk' of FFB in the wheel, it's sort of reacting more to the road and my input. It's difficult to describe!

Will have a look at the others soon!

(Wheel is still alive!)

2pfspiff
04-09-2015, 18:24
I'm also running the 66% feed back settings on the cars I drive. You can feel when the rear starts to slide out on you more with the 66% then any other settings. Thanks Jack Spade for the work you put into it.

Olijke Poffer
04-09-2015, 18:56
My TX has been performing well with this patch. I've been running FFB 75 & Tire Force 80. The only thing that isn't default for the rest of the settings are....
my throttle deadzone is 0 & sensitivity is 30.

I've also been using Jack Spade's latest spreadsheet version. Running SopLateral Mix chart. Love the slight tweaks to the chart numbers. Really has the wheel feeling great. Absolute joy to drive with the TX on Project CARS.

SopLateral Mix ..... Never used it myself. Perhaps I have to put it to the test. I normally use the bump plus.

oneBIGkicker
04-09-2015, 19:32
I have been having an issue with my TX, started after patch 3 but I think it may be my wheel.

At random times, a button is pushed without me doing so. Out of Blue it will look back, Shift by itself,not shift, or worst of all ,Pause. Only happens when driving, never seems to happen in pits or on menu screen.
I recalabrated it last nite, after a hard reset, was ok for a bit then issue returned.

Its been hot as hell here for last 7 days, and me no AC at home, So not sure if the heat might be cause.

Anyone ever get this?

Dynomight Motorsports
04-09-2015, 20:36
217278
Well that's my TX wheel in all its glory. I took it apart, and found that the problem lies in the Step-Down Transformer. There is a 240VAC 1amp transformer that steps the voltage down to 25VAC 2amp. The power going in is 119VAC but most I can get out was 7.6 VAC and no voltage on the other two wires going to board which I'm suspecting is the 24-25 VAC needed to power the FFB board. Not sure why but they sealed the transformer in a plastic casing and not allowing any cooling. The only fan in the unit is a small 2"x2" fan that only blows air across the Brush-less motor. A real piece of shit. If you ever have to deal with TM customer service or Tech support they are horrible. They have no sense of urgency. My first wheel died August 15th. Second wheel died less than 3 hours after opening the box on August 28th. I called TM tech support instead of the store I bought it from (Big Mistake) on the 28th. Wasn't til Sept 2nd that they created an RMA after countless emails and phone calls. Called today and the wheel still hasn't shipped. I was told it's being "Processed". Then should take another 3 business days to reach me once it's shipped. So think about that if you are considering a Thrustmaster Wheel, or buying another if yours dies!

rtazz17
05-09-2015, 23:00
Where is steering gain found im going crazy looking

Nevermind,found it!

nissan4ever
05-09-2015, 23:07
^^^^ Should be on the "Force Feedback Calibration" screen. At the bottom of it. When at wheel calibration area, you hit gas pedal to get to that screen.

HenTheKing
05-09-2015, 23:25
My tx started to lose its FFB today, any tips on preventing till this? Is it ok to still use in this situation? This bloody game...

widcard
06-09-2015, 01:32
My tx started to lose its FFB today, any tips on preventing till this? Is it ok to still use in this situation? This bloody game...

Hmm,,, well that's a call all of us have had to make.

I know that's not what you wanted to hear.

just keep the faith and see the bigger picture for what it can be down the road. :cool:

Strydervip
06-09-2015, 01:47
My tx started to lose its FFB today, any tips on preventing till this? Is it ok to still use in this situation? This bloody game...

Are you sure your wheel just didn'tgo into protective mode? When the motor reaches a certain temp the wheel will cut the force feedback down and when it cools it will go back 100%. It's very noticeable if you have it set too strong cause within your first 2 laps you will feel your wheel get loose!

Dynomight Motorsports
06-09-2015, 02:30
When I took my transformer (Inside the Wheel base) apart I found a small plastic molex connector that had melted due to the Amp draw. Probably from overheating the FFB motor. If you smell any kind of melted electronics, you might as well be looking for a new wheel, because it won't be long.. Just look at the above pic of mine pulled apart. But don't buy another TX. Wait for the Logitech G920, that wheel has two motors and I think will be much better in the long run.

HenTheKing
06-09-2015, 08:04
Are you sure your wheel just didn'tgo into protective mode? When the motor reaches a certain temp the wheel will cut the force feedback down and when it cools it will go back 100%. It's very noticeable if you have it set too strong cause within your first 2 laps you will feel your wheel get loose!

It could of been that. It does smell but not of burnt or melted electrics. More of a new electric smell, I have noticed it being stronger sometimes though. I angled my standing fan at it and the FFB returned.

Am I right in thinking it's just PC that has raped many many TX's? Never see much complaining on the Forza forums.

HenTheKing
06-09-2015, 08:05
Actually, this happened on cars that I hadn't bothered to set FFB for, they were stock. Could this be why?

PowerCRUX
06-09-2015, 08:32
Hi guys..
someone has the CPX adapter from Mr.Basherboards?

wearymick
06-09-2015, 12:55
Hi guys..
someone has the CPX adapter from Mr.Basherboards?
Yep. Had one for a while and love the thing.
Edit: saw your post in the tech forum. It works fine with v49.

Benja190782
06-09-2015, 19:38
I got FFB at 100, TF at 100, steering deadzone at 0, and everything else is default - but instead I change the Master Scale in setups. The RUF GT3 which I love to race with Master Scale at 12 instead of 26. It feels realistic, but it still feels too sluggish! Which Jack Spade setup should I go for - or which is the most popular setup? 66% or??

Dynomight Motorsports
06-09-2015, 20:25
I like the Bumps Plus setting.. I used to run classic, but I wanted more feel in the lateral and rear of the car.

LMR ShOwTiMe875
07-09-2015, 22:14
Anybody get a feeling from the wheel wanting to yank out if your hands if you hit a tire wall or something. Like the wheel once to keep pulling hard after the wreck until you start moving again. Had to pause the game to make it stop it was so bad earlier.

Globespy
08-09-2015, 08:36
I didn't change anything and it still feels the same as before 3.0

i had just to lauch on demand the game with the Wheel's "menu" button , if i press wheel's "A" button the pad is set as current controler on the controler option menu.

the sms default FFB setting are on the "origin" tab, my 2.0 FFB tweak calibration has been keep on the "custom" tab.

so all is fine for me.

xbOxOne, tx trustmaster, main FFB 50%, main tires Force 100, the new output gain set to 1 as SMS has set this.

I'm not sure I understand how you are doing this?
I'm using the leather TM VG28 GT wheel, which I've marked the "menu" button to the white colored button on the lower left of the wheel. This same menu funk l function is also on the little knob your can twist, or the yellow button on the lower right hand corner of the wheel base. Tried launching the game with all options and when I go in to control options, the pad controller is always default. Only solution is to disconnect the Xbox One controller pad from USB, which then prompts me to "reconnect controller" and pressing the "a" button on the wheel chooses the wheel as the default.
Appreciate any insights to what I'm doing wrong here add it's a huge pain to not be able to just start the game using the wheel and have it recognized as default.
Thanks.

Globespy
08-09-2015, 09:17
Last night I realized there was a typo in my post. Relative Adjust Bleed should be 0.05, not 0.5. I think that might be why it felt to weak for you. I thought that was strange. :)

I've already corrected it in the post above.

You never mention your deadzone removal numbers?
Appreciate further info.

Dynomight Motorsports
09-09-2015, 14:19
Still waiting on my wheel base to show up. there are a lot of different settings on here. I'd love to try them all but unfortunately I don't think I'll have to time to. If anyone has a GT3 time for Brands Hatch or Nurburgring GP so I can base FFB settings off of that would be helpful. I almost exclusively drive GT3, and I need a FFB setting that (as you can tell in my signature) won't kill my wheel. Light on FFB but still gives me good feel overall. I actually enjoyed..er...got used to the FFB strength of the game pre-patch 1.3. If I could get back to that I think the wheel will last me a while longer than 3 hours. I've been using 100% FFB + 100% TF + patch 3.0 = Wheel dead in 3 hrs.

Haiden
09-09-2015, 14:41
You never mention your deadzone removal numbers?
Appreciate further info.

The link in my signature points to the latest tune with deadzone. Any other setting not listed, is still at the default setting for the Default Profile.

SancholovesTsintao
09-09-2015, 15:55
This 3.0 patch was worth waiting for, even if we XBox users had to wait. I'm playing with a couple of my settings as well, because GT4 class is out of control on some of the twistier courses.

Globespy
09-09-2015, 16:36
Still waiting on my wheel base to show up. there are a lot of different settings on here. I'd love to try them all but unfortunately I don't think I'll have to time to. If anyone has a GT3 time for Brands Hatch or Nurburgring GP so I can base FFB settings off of that would be helpful. I almost exclusively drive GT3, and I need a FFB setting that (as you can tell in my signature) won't kill my wheel. Light on FFB but still gives me good feel overall. I actually enjoyed..er...got used to the FFB strength of the game pre-patch 1.3. If I could get back to that I think the wheel will last me a while longer than 3 hours. I've been using 100% FFB + 100% TF + patch 3.0 = Wheel dead in 3 hrs.

Shame you are having such a tough time with wheels. Thankfully your are the only person with total failures that I know of amongst the TX Owners in the racing leagues I participate in. I mainly race GT3. I've played with the wheel using 100FFB+100TF+Patch 3.0 and unless you think your car needs to feel like a tractor without power steering, it's not settings I would want to use. However, with those settings you can achieve the correct balance using master spindle, SoP and master gain settings. Even if you like that kind of weight, you miss out on all the little details that you should experience as all you'll feel is hard bumps through all that FFB. I'd imagine that I'd likely see more failures if I used those settings without making other changes, but like I said, I can't see any real enjoyment or realism either.
I'd be happy to share a tune with you.... Including FFB settings that you might be happy with, especially for 50+ lap endurance races.
Cheers

LMR ShOwTiMe875
09-09-2015, 21:01
Still waiting on my wheel base to show up. there are a lot of different settings on here. I'd love to try them all but unfortunately I don't think I'll have to time to. If anyone has a GT3 time for Brands Hatch or Nurburgring GP so I can base FFB settings off of that would be helpful. I almost exclusively drive GT3, and I need a FFB setting that (as you can tell in my signature) won't kill my wheel. Light on FFB but still gives me good feel overall. I actually enjoyed..er...got used to the FFB strength of the game pre-patch 1.3. If I could get back to that I think the wheel will last me a while longer than 3 hours. I've been using 100% FFB + 100% TF + patch 3.0 = Wheel dead in 3 hrs.

I feel for you bud. That must be frustrating! I have a tx and I had to mess with the settings a bit cuz I could tell there was way to much stress bring out on it. I left ffb at 100 tf 70 final gain (new setting) .80 and relative bleed .05 everything else default and then of course I tune each cars feedback to my liking as they are all quite. Different. Hope that helps because at first I thought my wheel was toast! It did this thing where if I reached full lock it started going crazy. After these settings I've had no problems

Dynomight Motorsports
10-09-2015, 03:07
Thanks Showtime! That was very helpful!

Dynomight Motorsports
11-09-2015, 10:56
Hmm don't know if I was experiencing a glitch/bug but I tried about 6 - 10 different settings and could not get any feel from my FFB. I know it was working because I could feel it in the Menu and on Pit Road, but as soon as I got out on track it may as well just been a Spider, but it didn't even feel like it would return to center. I did a hard reset, and will try again today. I managed to drive 2 hours last night without the (3rd) replacement wheel dying. Probably because I didn't have any FFB while on the track.

Globespy
11-09-2015, 18:08
Hmm don't know if I was experiencing a glitch/bug but I tried about 6 - 10 different settings and could not get any feel from my FFB. I know it was working because I could feel it in the Menu and on Pit Road, but as soon as I got out on track it may as well just been a Spider, but it didn't even feel like it would return to center. I did a hard reset, and will try again today. I managed to drive 2 hours last night without the (3rd) replacement wheel dying. Probably because I didn't have any FFB while on the track.

Sounds like you are jinxed with TM products.....as mentioned before, I know many people who haven't had any issues, a year in with multiple hundreds of hours. I said I'd be happy to talk with you and help you try a setup but never heard any response - seems that you just want to keep bashing the product? Maybe time to look at other options and get on with life?
I had a Fanatec CSW V2 setup, a massive $1500 investment when all said and done and it died on me. There's a site that looks at the internals (the important stuff beyond the very pretty aluminum housing), and the TX internals are better in many areas. By limiting supply Fanatec very cleverly created a false sense that it must be so much better, justifying the price tag. Marketing is amazing! If you think TM customer service is bad, try Fanatec - I had to threaten them with legal action before finally getting resolution. Go figure....
Good luck in whatever you do.

Dynomight Motorsports
12-09-2015, 03:29
Sounds like you are jinxed with TM products.....as mentioned before, I know many people who haven't had any issues, a year in with multiple hundreds of hours. I said I'd be happy to talk with you and help you try a setup but never heard any response - seems that you just want to keep bashing the product? Maybe time to look at other options and get on with life?
I had a Fanatec CSW V2 setup, a massive $1500 investment when all said and done and it died on me. There's a site that looks at the internals (the important stuff beyond the very pretty aluminum housing), and the TX internals are better in many areas. By limiting supply Fanatec very cleverly created a false sense that it must be so much better, justifying the price tag. Marketing is amazing! If you think TM customer service is bad, try Fanatec - I had to threaten them with legal action before finally getting resolution. Go figure....
Good luck in whatever you do.
My new wheel base failed today when I plugged it up. It's not registering the hal sensor, and just spins back and forth lock to lock. Called TM and they were clueless as to what to do. So to save time I sent them a video, along with a picture of my serial tag. This one only lasted 2 hrs. Fortunately I bought a Spider from ebay so I have a back-up now. I can't wait for the Logitech to come out. I'm jumping the TM ship as fast as I can. This shit is ridiculous.

STEELJOCKEY
12-09-2015, 05:25
I'm not sure I understand how you are doing this?
I'm using the leather TM VG28 GT wheel, which I've marked the "menu" button to the white colored button on the lower left of the wheel. This same menu funk l function is also on the little knob your can twist, or the yellow button on the lower right hand corner of the wheel base. Tried launching the game with all options and when I go in to control options, the pad controller is always default. Only solution is to disconnect the Xbox One controller pad from USB, which then prompts me to "reconnect controller" and pressing the "a" button on the wheel chooses the wheel as the default.
Appreciate any insights to what I'm doing wrong here add it's a huge pain to not be able to just start the game using the wheel and have it recognized as default.
Thanks.

Note that with patch 3.0, if you are using the wheel, start the game using the menu button on the wheel, not the 'A' button. This will ensure you always have the wheel as default and saves having to disconnect hand controller are reconnecting wheel as default controller.

If you are using the GTE rim, the menu button is the second button from the right on the lower left side of the rim, for those new to this rim.

AMarchesini92
02-10-2015, 20:54
I feel for you bud. That must be frustrating! I have a tx and I had to mess with the settings a bit cuz I could tell there was way to much stress bring out on it. I left ffb at 100 tf 70 final gain (new setting) .80 and relative bleed .05 everything else default and then of course I tune each cars feedback to my liking as they are all quite. Different. Hope that helps because at first I thought my wheel was toast! It did this thing where if I reached full lock it started going crazy. After these settings I've had no problems

What do u think to use these settings with 66%SopLateral?