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View Full Version : Problems with the steering on the thrustmaster 458 spider wheel (not the TX)



CreasingCurve1
03-09-2015, 00:54
hey guys. firstly im guessing that your thinking why I have the cheaper model. the answer to that is because I am a 15 year old who doesn't have enough money for the TX version. But anyways my problem with the wheel is that when I am going along a straight or a slight turn the wheel seems to disagree with the position and it jerks to the side for like a tenth second and sometimes it does it multiple times in quick succession. this problem is very annoying and im not sure if it is a problem with the cable, the wheel or the game. please help me I want this problem fixed as it is severly restricting the amount of fun I am having with this game.

trips1x
03-09-2015, 02:42
Hi CreasingCurve1, I had used that same wheel and had the same problem. Try turning the sensitivity down on the wheel options menu in the game. If I had mine above 60 it seemed to do that. Hopefully that is your problem also.

CreasingCurve1
03-09-2015, 02:47
Thanks for that but i'm currently at school and it will be the first thing that I do as soon as I get home. Thanks again.

Nicho Lucas Dad
03-09-2015, 03:41
Try these settings, might not work for you but doesnt hurt to try.

Steering Deadzone = 7
Steering Sensitivity = 45
Throttle Deadzone = 0
Throttle Sensitivity = 50
Brake Deadzone = 0
Brake Sensitivity = 50
Clutch Deadzone = 0
Clutch Sensitivity = 50
*Auto clutch is ON, gearbox Manual*

Speed Sensitivity = 0
Controller Filtering = 5
Damper Saturation = 0

Controller Input Mode = 3
Advanced = ON
Soft Steering Damper = ON
Visual Wheel Filtering = ON
Opposite Lock Help = OFF

*With all assists off*
* Make sure you calibrate at 240 deg!

CreasingCurve1
03-09-2015, 03:44
Cool ill try this aswell and as you said it wont hurt to try.

STEELJOCKEY
03-09-2015, 05:19
Try these settings, might not work for you but doesnt hurt to try.

Steering Deadzone = 7
Steering Sensitivity = 45
Throttle Deadzone = 0
Throttle Sensitivity = 50
Brake Deadzone = 0
Brake Sensitivity = 50
Clutch Deadzone = 0
Clutch Sensitivity = 50
*Auto clutch is ON, gearbox Manual*

Speed Sensitivity = 0
Controller Filtering = 5
Damper Saturation = 0

Controller Input Mode = 3
Advanced = ON
Soft Steering Damper = ON
Visual Wheel Filtering = ON
Opposite Lock Help = OFF

*With all assists off*
* Make sure you calibrate at 240 deg!

I wondered if you'd show up, having the same wheel and doing nothing at work as usual.

Might want to post up how to repair the whole thing from scratch while you're at it, solder/hot glue and all! LOL

Catch you after 9:30 if you're on tonight

Nicho Lucas Dad
03-09-2015, 05:33
Lol,,its a hard job doing f all and lurking around forums. cya then.

STEELJOCKEY
03-09-2015, 06:52
There's a lot on here in the same boat I reckon

Hammerpgh
03-09-2015, 07:50
hey guys. firstly im guessing that your thinking why I have the cheaper model. the answer to that is because I am a 15 year old who doesn't have enough money for the TX version. But anyways my problem with the wheel is that when I am going along a straight or a slight turn the wheel seems to disagree with the position and it jerks to the side for like a tenth second and sometimes it does it multiple times in quick succession. this problem is very annoying and im not sure if it is a problem with the cable, the wheel or the game. please help me I want this problem fixed as it is severly restricting the amount of fun I am having with this game.

Not sure if this will help but I have the same wheel and do not have this problem. There was a video explaining this somewhere on this forum so i'll try to find it and post the link here when I do. But basicaly when you calibrate the wheel on the second stage of calibration make sure to set it at 240 degrees rather than all the way around.

Hammerpgh
03-09-2015, 09:04
As promised here is the link to the video I mentioned above:-

https://youtu.be/I3xzmfEqeRo

CreasingCurve1
07-09-2015, 01:58
ive tried calibrating it many times and the problems still does not get fixed because every time ive tried calibrating it it flicks one way and messes up the calibration. today im going to get a refund for it because it got so bad that it flicked to the left while I was driving straight which made me crash into a wall and lose my left front wheel which is unacceptable.

OpticalHercules
07-09-2015, 04:43
It could be a broken wheel. Entirely possible. But a bad calibration can also create a similar reaction.

When Calibrating this wheel, make sure you turn the wheel very slowly. Part one the reading will jump when the wheel reaches a physical 90*. this is normal. part 2, turn the wheel slowly all the way to the stop, then center the wheel, then turn the wheel to the other stop, center again, then take it to 240* reading in either direction. I don't know why but I noticed funny readings and funnier handling when I was playing with my wheel calibrations a week or three ago.

Also, with the pedals, again, make sure you move VERY SLOWLY. maybe get down and move each pedal individually with your hands just to make it slow and steady enough. It does make a difference.

When setting your in-game sensitivity settings, remember that higher or lower settings is not in any way changing the range of motion read by the wheel. 0 is still 0, and lock will always be the same reading. think of 50% sens as a 1:1 linear line on a graph. x1=y1 x2=y2, and so on. Higher settings increase the rate of read at a lower physical turn in the first half of the wheel's range of motion but actually slow the readings in the second half. Think of a horizontal parabola where the line increases in height relative to distance very quickly but then levels out as you travel further and further. The reverse is true for a lower sensitivity setting. think of a vertical parabola there. As the wheel starts turning, the game registers proportionately less travel, but after 50% the game registers exponentially more travel until you reach the lock. A 50% sens setting is the smoothest possible wheel setting.

Deadzone is good to have in small amounts, but if you suffer from twitching in your car's handling, try increasing your Input Filtering a little and your Speed Sensitivity. I've still yet to figure out exactly what Dampening does in that config menu, but I know I like whatever it does in small amounts.

CreasingCurve1
07-09-2015, 05:16
I had my sensitivity on about 30 and I still had the same problem. even when I tried calibrating the wheel it flicks to the left of the right and has the wrong reading. no matter how many times I calibrated it I still had the same problem. the pedals are fine its just that the throttle pedal will not stop squeaking either and that annoys me aswell.

Johngrim
07-09-2015, 08:02
Obviously a wheel fault ! Take it back .

OpticalHercules
07-09-2015, 15:27
Yeah. The apart from the jump seen in part 1 of the wheel calibration that is normal, the jumpiness you're describing does sound like a wheel fault. There's bound to be bad ones out there, but in general many people really like this wheel despite it's lack of FFB. I think it's fantastic.

Nicho Lucas Dad
07-09-2015, 23:39
ive tried calibrating it many times and the problems still does not get fixed because every time ive tried calibrating it it flicks one way and messes up the calibration. today im going to get a refund for it because it got so bad that it flicked to the left while I was driving straight which made me crash into a wall and lose my left front wheel which is unacceptable.

Yeah the switch inside is stuffed if its flicking, mine flicks to the left. I have opened mine up and adjusted shit inside, no warranty for me tho as the cause was my kids pulling down on the wheel and snapping the housing and mounting bracket.

Dynomight Motorsports
08-09-2015, 12:47
the squeaky pedals are an easy fix. WD40 has a White lithium grease available that works pretty wheel with plastic parts. If you don't like that you can go with their silicone spray. Just don't use petroleum products on plastics as it will eat them up!

OpticalHercules
08-09-2015, 16:05
the squeaky pedals are an easy fix. WD40 has a White lithium grease available that works pretty wheel with plastic parts. If you don't like that you can go with their silicone spray. Just don't use petroleum products on plastics as it will eat them up!

White Lithium grease is a very handy thing to have and I use it tons, but it can be a real PITA to work with. Best way to apply it into small hinges is to pull some up into a syringe. Go to your local pharmacy/cvs and ask for an oral dosing syringe. They'll give them out free. If the tip of that is too large to fit into tight spaces, you can always press a simple soda straw on to the end of the syringe, fold and crimp the end of the straw at an angle to create a long point, then poke a hole or cut the edge off. That grease will get anywhere and everywhere. You could also cut the tip off of a Q-Tip and just apply the grease with a the small stick. I just really hate touching that stuff. It doesn't wash off easily, and using a rag just spreads it to your washing machine when you clean them, then to all your clothes.

There's also some good penetrating oils that will work with plastics, such as Aero-Kroil or Ballistol. Both are usually found in firearm cleaning supplies and aren't cheap, but they both work very well and are fine with plastics.

Dynomight Motorsports
09-09-2015, 00:39
Problem solved if you by the WD40 version of the White Lithium Grease it comes with an applicator straw to get into those tight spaces and hinges. They sell it at lowes here in US.

CreasingCurve1
09-09-2015, 02:46
Yeah. The apart from the jump seen in part 1 of the wheel calibration that is normal, the jumpiness you're describing does sound like a wheel fault. There's bound to be bad ones out there, but in general many people really like this wheel despite it's lack of FFB. I think it's fantastic.
I agree it is a fantastic wheel (before the fault obviously) I had it for about 6 months and I used it heaps on both forza 5 and PCARS. Especially because it was affordable and it was the only way that I could practice driving even though it is just a game and I am only 15 and will be getting my licence a couple days after Christmas (hopefully).

OpticalHercules
09-09-2015, 15:08
Problem solved if you by the WD40 version of the White Lithium Grease it comes with an applicator straw to get into those tight spaces and hinges. They sell it at lowes here in US.

Putting a can of pressurized grease in my hands is NEVER a wise decision. I'm getting a stupid grin across my face just thinking of the "oopses" that will happen.

Hasassin_X
28-11-2015, 03:09
I use all the same settings as you except and this going to sound dumb but I figured I would try it so when I calibrated my wheel I did the same 240 and it didn't feel right so I changed to to 270 and damn i love this game again. I tested it on formula one gt and road cars wheel light set to 1 blink and it's great no issues at all give it a try works for me