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tennenbaum
29-03-2016, 17:39
I tried the RAC=0.75, but didn't use your testing method. I just simply changed the RAC and kept my other settings the same. I ran a few laps on Silverstone, which is a fairly smooth track. First lap, by the end of sector one, I realized I had lost a lot of subtle tire slip feeling. Based on some of your previous posts, I assumed it was due to the clamp compression. I normally run RAC=0.85; lowering it those 10 increments increased the compression saturation enough to drown out the tire slip.

Edit: It always comes down to preference. But, for me, if I can't feel the subtle slip, I tend to overdrive the car and after a few laps, my tires are on fire. It's actually not a bad thing for hot lapping, and I admit I'm often faster when I can't feel the subtleties, but for racing, it's not a sustainable pace. IMO, being able to feel that subtle slip is critical for tire management.

The subtle loss of tire slip feel with RAC 0.75 results imo from the reduced dynamic range for the relevant steering forces that saturate at 0.75 (instead of higher values). I described that imo predictable effect in a more in-depth-post a couple of days ago.

It's interesting that you mentioned that you're sometimes faster when you can't feel the subtleties. I had the same impression but didn't really trust my feeling. Though - it sounds paradox - it was actually the richness with all the sensations and details of Jack's settings that made me look for a "less loaded" FFB for myself.

I was looking for a way to make "space" for the forces that i'm interested in the most... the few forces that help me perfecting my steering (as you described above so well) ...especially how much lateral load the front tires can take before they slip.

I would almost bet, if you give this "Fy only" experiment a try, you would be astonished how much "over all" information about the car's driving behavior is clearly communicated by a force that is mainly considered to be rather reduced than accentuated with most settings being around here... ;) I was especially surprised how quickly and intuitive quick oversteer can be detected. May be because the simulation of the "car-body turn counter-wise to steering rack pinion position" is so well done by the physic engine, but gets easily masked by the many other forces at work... I'm not saying that going with "Fy only" is the way to go. Not at all! I think it just helps to clear my view when i get confused from too much testing, or cars that behave strange with given FFB settings.

konnos
29-03-2016, 18:52
Well I think I have done just what you described Tennenbaum. I have Thrustmaster FFB to 75%, TF=80-90, RAG 1.40, RAB 0.10-12, RAC 2.00, SoftClips OFF, SG 1.00 and in-game FFB to 100. I am using Jack's folder 2 and I am not clipping, maybe a little with higher TF values under a very loaded uphill turn, like the 1st corner at SPA (no visible clipping with lower TF values). However, you mentioned to make sure that the forces being fed to RAC do not exceed 1.00, how do i accomplish that. I have been following most of your posts, if not all of them.

tennenbaum
29-03-2016, 19:19
Well I think I have done just what you described Tennenbaum. I have Thrustmaster FFB to 75%, TF=80-90, RAG 1.40, RAB 0.10-12, RAC 2.00, SoftClips OFF, SG 1.00 and in-game FFB to 100. I am using Jack's folder 2 and I am not clipping, maybe a little with higher TF values under a very loaded uphill turn, like the 1st corner at SPA (no visible clipping with lower TF values). However, you mentioned to make sure that the forces being fed to RAC do not exceed 1.00, how do i accomplish that. I have been following most of your posts, if not all of them.

What car do you use? Or easier, what are your FxyzMz and Sop Settings? With SG set at 1.00 (not 1,45) there are indeed good chances that your signal stays <1.00. The proof that you do not exceed 1.00 is given when you don't see clipping in the HUD telemetry, because when RAC is set to 2.00 and if a signal would be higher than 1.00, RAC would soft-limit not before 2.00, thus the entire range between 0.00 - 2.00 would still hit the normalized 0.00 - 1.00 dynamic range. Therefore all tire forces (except fast spikes) in the range 1.00 - 2.00 would still be "untouched" by RAC, therefore hit the normalized 0.00 - 1.00 corridor with values >1.00, thus you would see clipping in the HUD. Now, that you don't see clippings it's the proof that you didn't feed RAC with values higher than 1.00.

EDIT:
i just had a look at JS in car settings again... he actually set all the values to amounts that indeed do not cause (or only very little) saturation with RAC in effect. He just uses RAC (at 0.85) as a security fence (as he does with his smooting settings) in case unexpexted stronger tire forces occur occasionally, and to give some headroom (0.85 - 1.00) for the spikes, so they won't compromise the main steering forces (snake line around RAC value) As said before... he knows what he is doing... :-) But be aware: when you start to experiment with isolated forces, even JS Fxyzm values can clip, when "inverse" Fz is not in the mix...

There is also a simpler way to check if tire forces ("the signal") are <1.00. Turn RAG, RAB and RAC, and of course soft clipper, all off. Check the HUD. If no clipping then you can be sure that the result of all multiplications is <1.00. The difference to the test with RAC set to 2.00 is, that with RAC 2.00 you can keep RAG and RAB on, which means you can see in the HUD not only the "pure" tire forces, but also the "derived" signal that is kind of added by RAG and mixed into the pure signal with RAB.

Well, so given that you don't exceed 1.00 and thus having no saturation you're ready for the next step, to isolate the different forces... and then building up your own mix. Especially to deal with Fz that can absorb so many useful other informations... Then, when you miss some more constant wheel weight, you can add saturation saturation again, step by step...


(Sidenote: Just for other readers: The setting/values of the in-game FFB and the trustmaster FFB doesn't effect the test as described above. Because in-game FFB and thrustmaster FFB amplifies the "normalized 0.00 - 1.00 signal" after the stage of HUD, meaning these masters translate "the signal" into a signal the drives the wheel. But they IMO* don't effect "the FFB mix" itself in terms of what's hitting the telemetry box in regard of clipping or not clipping.. Saying so, of course with in-game FFB master and Thrustmaster FFB you can make clip the signal (that didn't clip at HUD stage) at the wheel, when your max. 1.00 signal is getting boosted by in-game FFB and Wheel-FFB up to an point where the wheel starts to clip with its own electronic and due to its mechanical limitations...)

* It's still controversially discussed how the settings of in-game FFB and wheel FFB influence the final I/O curve at wheel stage, but for what's discussed in this post, IMO these two settings are not relevant.

Regarding your question: "do i gain something by having a pure force or would i benefit from a higher TF or car scale and lowering RAC?" The higher you set TF the more you compress the part of the signal that goes higher than the RAC value. in so far it's a balance... hard to say what's the benefit of either or. you either have more saturation or less, or none. basically it's all about prefering mainly linear i/o or compressed i/o.

Haiden
29-03-2016, 22:12
The subtle loss of tire slip feel with RAC 0.75 results imo from the reduced dynamic range for the relevant steering forces that saturate at 0.75 (instead of higher values). I described that imo predictable effect in a more in-depth-post a couple of days ago.

It's interesting that you mentioned that you're sometimes faster when you can't feel the subtleties. I had the same impression but didn't really trust my feeling. Though - it sounds paradox - it was actually the richness with all the sensations and details of Jack's settings that made me look for a "less loaded" FFB for myself.

I was looking for a way to make "space" for the forces that i'm interested in the most... the few forces that help me perfecting my steering (as you described above so well) ...especially how much lateral load the front tires can take before they slip.

I would almost bet, if you give this "Fy only" experiment a try, you would be astonished how much "over all" information about the car's driving behavior is clearly communicated by a force that is mainly considered to be rather reduced than accentuated with most settings being around here... ;) I was especially surprised how quickly and intuitive quick oversteer can be detected. May be because the simulation of the "car-body turn counter-wise to steering rack pinion position" is so well done by the physic engine, but gets easily masked by the many other forces at work... I'm not saying that going with "Fy only" is the way to go. Not at all! I think it just helps to clear my view when i get confused from too much testing, or cars that behave strange with given FFB settings.

I think the reason you can be faster without the subtitles is because, at least in the case of subtle tire slip, it's not a complete traction loss. It's mostly coming from the front, so you're not going to spin out if you push through it. You just scrub the hell out of your tires. But when you feel the subtle lightening of the wheel, your brain knows what it is, and you modulate the brake/throttle accordingly to bring the grip back, preserving the tires, but...slowing down. When your wheel is saturated, you can't feel the subtle wheel lightening and just stay on the power, getting a faster lap time, but at the expense of your tires.

You're right. I've already done the Fy test. I isolated all of the scales when I first started tuning. And yes, I was surprised at how much detail was in the Fy spectrum. It was the only scale that is actually driveable in isolation. I was really surprised that curb and road feel were pretty much non-existent when I isolated Fz, but they were very present when I was running Fy only. The unfortunate thing about Fy is it's a very strong laterally derived force, and running it too high will easily drown out the other forces. That's why I don't run it too high. The force it produces will saturate your range in a heartbeat, and you won't feel any of the subtle forces when cornering--when you need all the subtle detail you can get.

tennenbaum
29-03-2016, 22:45
I think the reason you can be faster without the subtitles is because, at least in the case of subtle tire slip, it's not a complete traction loss. It's mostly coming from the front, so you're not going to spin out if you push through it. You just scrub the hell out of your tires. But when you feel the subtle lightening of the wheel, your brain knows what it is, and you modulate the brake/throttle accordingly to bring the grip back, preserving the tires, but...slowing down. When your wheel is saturated, you can't feel the subtle wheel lightening and just stay on the power, getting a faster lap time, but at the expense of your tires.

You're right. I've already done the Fy test. I isolated all of the scales when I first started tuning. And yes, I was surprised at how much detail was in the Fy spectrum. It was the only scale that is actually driveable in isolation. I was really surprised that curb and road feel were pretty much non-existent when I isolated Fz, but they were very present when I was running Fy only. The unfortunate thing about Fy is it's a very strong laterally derived force, and running it too high will easily drown out the other forces. That's why I don't run it too high. The force it produces will saturate your range in a heartbeat, and you won't feel any of the subtle forces when cornering--when you need all the subtle detail you can get.

you described a very interesting matter perfectly. something that i assumed to feel like that, but i wasn't sure... it's great to exchange and discuss experiences. best way to progress. impossible to do that any other way than as a team effort...

morpwr
30-03-2016, 01:15
FxyzMz, SoP diff and lat, TF and in-car masters are simple multipliers, in so far it doesn't matter if you raise such scalers >100, up to 200. It's the result of the multiplication that matters. In many of my posts i lied out how it works. It can be easily proven (by turning off RAGBC and SC). Though, - i know - this simple math never got really popular ;)

BTW: In the meantime I tested your RAC 75 setting. I like that the wheel got a bit lighter. Still, the setting carries your typical "GrimeyDog-Signature" :D A lot of saturation, which gives a pretty constant wheel weight during cornering, plus a lot of road feel sensations. (For those who doubt my fresh verdict about the saturation: Turn the clamp of the RAGBC module off, then lower the masters until the signal get out of the clipping zone, by the amount of reduction of the master(s) you see how much the signal got strongly compressed, which leads to saturation, here at an output value of around 0.75, see telemetry...)

Besides: I guess the FFB discussion didn't come to an end yet... ... i was glad with my pure analytic "no compression" setting, but due to its lack of any saturation i didn't have a at least a bit of realistic wheel weight during cornering... So i recalled everything i learned about the FFB (especially Fz counteracting Fy, SoP and Mz) --- and turned everything else off, except Fy, keeping RAG at 135, and RAB 0.06, RAC 2.00, i leveled Fy to max 1.00, set my GM FFB to 80 (for my T300) --- and voilà: great pure steering feeling, great drifting, great steering balance e.g. for the long sweeper after Bus Stop at Watkins Glen Short... And my fastest lap-time so far on my Watkins Short reference track. Of course: No feel of finishing line white paint..., but when you get used to the experiment (!) you will wonder how much road feel and details are communicated by Fy only! You will also see how correct and logical the mechanical set up (caster, camber, toe) is simulated... It's a bit like having a sip of water, before sipping different wine tastes again. If you wanna try just make sure you set RAC to 2.00, turn SC off and avoid any clipping. Otherwise it won't work...

You bring up a point ive been meaning to bring up. The paint line is not really a good indicator of good ffb to a point. With some of the ffb setups we have had it would have to be half an inch thick to feel like that in real life.lol Its a painted line. My old settings were like that it was very obvious when you ran over it with my new ones you still can but its not nearly as obvious. But there is a lot more overall detail in the important forces.

Haiden
30-03-2016, 01:47
you described a very interesting matter perfectly. something that i assumed to feel like that, but i wasn't sure... it's great to exchange and discuss experiences. best way to progress. impossible to do that any other way than as a team effort...

Same here. I was also unsure for a while, because I felt the lighter settings were better, but could get better times with the weighted ones. But then when I started doing longer stints, I was having trouble keeping my tires from overheating, and started to realize what was happening. At least, what I think was happening. Reading comments in this thread helped me piece it together. That's when I started treating lap times as just an early indicator of the FFB quality and looking at other factors to make the final call. I like reading other people comments about their experiences and test results.


You bring up a point ive been meaning to bring up. The paint line is not really a good indicator of good ffb to a point. With some of the ffb setups we have had it would have to be half an inch thick to feel like that in real life.lol Its a painted line. My old settings were like that it was very obvious when you ran over it with my new ones you still can but its not nearly as obvious. But there is a lot more overall detail in the important forces.

I agree, and I've been curious as to why you can feel it. I wonder if it's because of the type of paint. I know some tracks paint curbs with a type of paint that gets better traction with the tires. Perhaps the blip in FFB is your tires going from the raw surface to a grippier paint and back? Or maybe even the opposite--the paint might be slick, and the blip is a quick slip in traction?

morpwr
30-03-2016, 02:15
Same here. I was also unsure for a while, because I felt the lighter settings were better, but could get better times with the weighted ones. But then when I started doing longer stints, I was having trouble keeping my tires from overheating, and started to realize what was happening. At least, what I think was happening. Reading comments in this thread helped me piece it together. That's when I started treating lap times as just an early indicator of the FFB quality and looking at other factors to make the final call. I like reading other people comments about their experiences and test results.



I agree, and I've been curious as to why you can feel it. I wonder if it's because of the type of paint. I know some tracks paint curbs with a type of paint that gets better traction with the tires. Perhaps the blip in FFB is your tires going from the raw surface to a grippier paint and back? Or maybe even the opposite--the paint might be slick, and the blip is a quick slip in traction?

That's possible but id probably go with we shouldn't or at least barely feel it. Ive never seen a track where the start/finish line was anything other than a painted line. That's were I'm at now its noticeable if your paying attention but that's it. Not like before where it felt like a bump. I cant believe especially on the start line it would be like that guys would scream because it would make starts really tough. Mash the throttle and immediately hit a bump or slippery surface? I dont think its a slip we feel either its too far away from the corner at full throttle and I think by then your in 5th. I don't live real far from there and a couple guys I know go every year ill see what they say.

Haiden
30-03-2016, 03:40
That's possible but id probably go with we shouldn't or at least barely feel it. Ive never seen a track where the start/finish line was anything other than a painted line. That's were I'm at now its noticeable if your paying attention but that's it. Not like before where it felt like a bump. I cant believe especially on the start line it would be like that guys would scream because it would make starts really tough. Mash the throttle and immediately hit a bump or slippery surface? I dont think its a slip we feel either its too far away from the corner at full throttle and I think by then your in 5th. I don't live real far from there and a couple guys I know go every year ill see what they say.

Yep. I can't remember when I first felt it, but in one of my old tunes it was more pronounced. Now, it's subtle, and I have to be paying attention; otherwise, I overlook it. The other thing that's strange about it is, Watkins is a really rough track. Even if the paint did register with the tire model, you would think the surface texture of that track would mask it.

That's a good idea--asking someone that's driven the track.

PureMalt77
30-03-2016, 07:18
I think the reason you can be faster without the subtitles is because, at least in the case of subtle tire slip, it's not a complete traction loss. It's mostly coming from the front, so you're not going to spin out if you push through it. You just scrub the hell out of your tires. But when you feel the subtle lightening of the wheel, your brain knows what it is, and you modulate the brake/throttle accordingly to bring the grip back, preserving the tires, but...slowing down. When your wheel is saturated, you can't feel the subtle wheel lightening and just stay on the power, getting a faster lap time, but at the expense of your tires

Spot on, and this is the proof!
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?45632-World-CARS-Championship-March-April-2016&p=1258154&viewfull=1#post1258154

morpwr
30-03-2016, 11:04
Spot on, and this is the proof!
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?45632-World-CARS-Championship-March-April-2016&p=1258154&viewfull=1#post1258154

Sensitivity is like that too. I noticed that even though I liked the feel set higher then I have it my tire temps skyrocketed. Even giving myself time to try and adjust and being aware it was happening I couldn't get the tire temps back to normal. Even just a few more clicks made a noticeable difference so I settled were I'm at.

PureMalt77
30-03-2016, 11:18
Sensitivity is like that too. I noticed that even though I liked the feel set higher then I have it my tire temps skyrocketed. Even giving myself time to try and adjust and being aware it was happening I couldn't get the tire temps back to normal. Even just a few more clicks made a noticeable difference so I settled were I'm at.

What sensitivity you run with in your controls?

Mine are:
Deadzone=0 (All), Sensitivity=80/95/95/100 (Steering, Gas, Brake, Clutch)

Haiden
30-03-2016, 11:54
Spot on, and this is the proof!
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?45632-World-CARS-Championship-March-April-2016&p=1258154&viewfull=1#post1258154

Exactly! And yes, Silverstone is definitely going to be a tire management race. I love that track, but you've got to get your pressures right and pay attention to tire slip, otherwise you'll cook the left side. Hockenheim never gives me an issue, but I've actually never driven the FB there--only FA and FC.


Sensitivity is like that too. I noticed that even though I liked the feel set higher then I have it my tire temps skyrocketed. Even giving myself time to try and adjust and being aware it was happening I couldn't get the tire temps back to normal. Even just a few more clicks made a noticeable difference so I settled were I'm at.

Same here. I thought being aware of it would help, but it didn't. If I can't feel the slip, I overdrive it.

GrimeyDog
30-03-2016, 13:17
I think the reason you can be faster without the subtitles is because, at least in the case of subtle tire slip, it's not a complete traction loss. It's mostly coming from the front, so you're not going to spin out if you push through it. You just scrub the hell out of your tires. But when you feel the subtle lightening of the wheel, your brain knows what it is, and you modulate the brake/throttle accordingly to bring the grip back, preserving the tires, but...slowing down. When your wheel is saturated, you can't feel the subtle wheel lightening and just stay on the power, getting a faster lap time, but at the expense of your tires.

You're right. I've already done the Fy test. I isolated all of the scales when I first started tuning. And yes, I was surprised at how much detail was in the Fy spectrum. It was the only scale that is actually driveable in isolation. I was really surprised that curb and road feel were pretty much non-existent when I isolated Fz, but they were very present when I was running Fy only. The unfortunate thing about Fy is it's a very strong laterally derived force, and running it too high will easily drown out the other forces. That's why I don't run it too high. The force it produces will saturate your range in a heartbeat, and you won't feel any of the subtle forces when cornering--when you need all the subtle detail you can get.

Im Exactly opposite... I cant get Good Laps or Manage Tires Temps or wear without Good Road Feel... the subtle Road Feel lets Me know when to Push and when to Back Off... i use No assist and use throttle control to keep tire Scrubbing to a Minimum when tire management really Counts.

tennenbaum
30-03-2016, 13:26
Sensitivity is like that too. I noticed that even though I liked the feel set higher then I have it my tire temps skyrocketed. Even giving myself time to try and adjust and being aware it was happening I couldn't get the tire temps back to normal. Even just a few more clicks made a noticeable difference so I settled were I'm at.

I didn't come to my mind, that higher steering sensitivity cause higher tire temps. Bad, because i like my sensitivity set at 83. However, good to know!

Haiden
30-03-2016, 13:33
I didn't come to my mind, that higher steering sensitivity cause higher tire temps. Bad, because i like my sensitivity set at 83. However, good to know!

Yep. It's the same as having steering ratio set to low. You turn too hard and scrub.

Haiden
30-03-2016, 13:35
Im Exactly opposite... I cant get Good Laps or Manage Tires Temos or wear without Good Road Feel... the subtle Road Feel lets Me know when to Oush and when to Back Off... i use No assist and use throttle control to keep tire Scrubbing to a Minimum when tire management really Counts.

What about smooth tracks with little to no texture/road feel?

morpwr
30-03-2016, 13:35
I didn't come to my mind, that higher steering sensitivity cause higher tire temps. Bad, because i like my sensitivity set at 83. However, good to know!

I'm at 90 but anything higher I cook the tires so 83 should be fine unless its causing you issues. It seems most of us are in that 80ish range.

PureMalt77
30-03-2016, 13:54
What about smooth tracks with little to no texture/road feel?

Right! GrimeyDog: delete Watkins Glen and the RUF GT3 from your game! That addiction is no good :p

Fight-Test
30-03-2016, 13:59
Yep. It's the same as having steering ratio set to low. You turn too hard and scrub.

Steering ratio won't effect tire wear. Overdriving the car because you can't feel all the car outputs with a small ratio can. If our ffb is right then you shouldn't have any issues. It easier to overdrive a car with a smaller ratio but once you adjust you will be fine. I use jacks 66% in car. Give a much more rear lateral feel to car. If you overdrive you can feel it much better with the 66%, at least in sportscars/prototypes. Remember aim small miss small. I'm always happy to run laps with you guys and help with some of this stuff. Remember aim small, miss small. Grab the telemetry app also, should help ou see the difference in your inputs with different ratios so you can see where your overdriving the car.

GrimeyDog
30-03-2016, 14:20
Smooth Tracks i do Ok as long as i can feel the Car Weight Transfer... its just a Matter knowing the track well enough to get the Throttle and Baking points right.

I try to get as Much Feel as i can and Balance it to Feel Right bumpy tracks... Then when i get to Smooth tracks i get as much Feel as the Track can Give.... When i try to do it the other way around the Bumpy tracks are way to Rough.

Ive been working with the Ford Falcon V8 super car on Watkins to Hone My Tweek... That Car has Much Less Road Feel than the GT3 Ruf but once i get the Tires Hot i can get Good Subtle Road Feel from it... One thing i Noticed is because im using RAC 75 when i set the RAB Higher than 8 the wheel center gets Lighter/Looser... Due to the lighter FFB forces i dont Need sooo Much Bleed off Now... Ive been working with Scoops to try and get More Feel from that Car/ Smooth Tracks but have Not Felt any better feel than the Scoops i use with the Current Tweek settings.

I use the Road Feel to determin the best Line through a corner... Some Tracks have Dips or Bumps that will off set the Car before corner entry... I need to feel those subtle Road Variations... It helps Me to throttle control and avoid spin outs because i use No Assist.

GrimeyDog
30-03-2016, 14:31
Right! GrimeyDog: delete Watkins Glen and the RUF GT3 from your game! That addiction is no good :p

I Love the Gt3 Ruf!!! That Car and Watkins is Ruining Me!!!:p There are a Few Tracks/ Cars i Really like but the GT3 Ruf, Watkins and Laguna Seca is My Testing Ground. Watkins for Bump Raod Feel, Laguna For turns and weight Transfer feel.

GrimeyDog
30-03-2016, 14:33
Now that all seems pretty settled with the FFB i will begin Car Tuning.

GrimeyDog
30-03-2016, 14:37
Steering ratio won't effect tire wear. Overdriving the car because you can't feel all the car outputs with a small ratio can. If our ffb is right then you shouldn't have any issues. It easier to overdrive a car with a smaller ratio but once you adjust you will be fine. I use jacks 66% in car. Give a much more rear lateral feel to car. If you overdrive you can feel it much better with the 66%, at least in sportscars/prototypes. Remember aim small miss small. I'm always happy to run laps with you guys and help with some of this stuff. Remember aim small, miss small. Grab the telemetry app also, should help ou see the difference in your inputs with different ratios so you can see where your overdriving the car.

Which app are you using???

I dont adjust anything... I use what ever DOR or Steering Ratio the game Sets per Car.. for Me its usually Spot on.

gotdirt410sprintcar
30-03-2016, 14:37
Grimey you should take a fully tuned car say from zakespeed and run laps and tell me what you feel. Then fine tune your settings everything will change from a stock FFB/SETUP too a fully tuned FFB SETUP. I haven't done it yet but that is a next test for me. I think people lose it when they start tuning there in the hole again because they start changing globals

GrimeyDog
30-03-2016, 14:41
Grimey you should take a fully tuned car say from zakespeed and run laps and tell me what you feel. Then fine tune your settings everything will change from a stock FFB/SETUP too a fully tuned FFB SETUP. I haven't done it yet but that is a next test for me. I think people lose it when they start tuning tyen there in the hole again

Whats the web site??? i have been waiting for the FFB to be Settled... I tune the Cars to the Steering wheel feel... When a car feels lazy i adjust the Cars Toe, Camber, Rear end etc to get it to turn i dont want to have to set DOR per car.

Haiden
30-03-2016, 15:10
Right! GrimeyDog: delete Watkins Glen and the RUF GT3 from your game! That addiction is no good :p

I agree. At this point, you're probably driving the car by rote, more than from feel. I think it's good to test on multiple tracks and cars, especially tracks you don't know well.


Smooth Tracks i do Ok as long as i can feel the Car Weight Transfer... its just a Matter knowing the track well enough to get the Throttle and Baking points right.

I use the Road Feel to determin the best Line through a corner... Some Tracks have Dips or Bumps that will off set the Car before corner entry... I need to feel those subtle Road Variations... It helps Me to throttle control and avoid spin outs because i use No Assist.

In a race, you don't always get the prime line, or the chance to hit your preferred braking point. That's when you need the subtle tire slip feel. When you're overtaking or cornering off the prime line, you need to feel that tire slip. You can still feel the dips and bumps, but, more importantly, subtle slip feel will let you know exactly how those bumps are disrupting your grip.


Steering ratio won't effect tire wear. Overdriving the car because you can't feel all the car outputs with a small ratio can. If our ffb is right then you shouldn't have any issues. It easier to overdrive a car with a smaller ratio but once you adjust you will be fine. I use jacks 66% in car.

We might be saying the same thing, but I think if you're ratio is too low, it lessens your ability to be smooth in some corners--steering with smaller inputs. When you turn too tightly, you can scrub, and scrub affects tire wear.

Fight-Test
30-03-2016, 15:36
Which app are you using???

I dont adjust anything... I use what ever DOR or Steering Ratio the game Sets per Car.. for Me its usually Spot on.

vrhive - you will need a laptop or pc to run it. http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?33881-vrHive-PC-XB1-PS4-Dashes-Telemetry-Live-Data-Arduino-Client-Server-more


Spot on to what? The real car? What feels good to you? No right or wrong answer as Ratio is subjective and can be changed by ratio, arm angle and sensitivity (this one might effect more than ratio). Its very much to what the user likes and wants to feel but since we have never driven these cars how do we really know what they feel like. The reason haiden and alot of guys have trouble with tires with a smaller ratio is that what used to take a inch on the wheel with a ratio of 13.6.1 is now a cm with 6.9.1. Margin of error greatly increases for the user. If your a driver with alot of over correcting then a small ratio will be very hard to adjust too. You must take all that you know and condense it then minimize any mistakes. A little mistake on a small ratio is like a big mistake on a big ratio. This means you have to get pretty dang consistent and good. At the same time WHen im going into a corner I can easily get my wheel to a exact spot I know I need to get to to make corner. I don't have to see saw on the wheel with over corrections or if car pushes. Its not easy at first but It can be a great benefit. You will get less movement on the wheel, so less tire movement and longer tire life. You will have less corrections on wheel so you will scrub less speed when you aren't on a perfect line. Every time your hands move to correct or catch the car you lose time. This is more frequent with a larger ratio so why not use a smaller ratio and work on reducing hand movement which will in turn increase your speed, tire life and help you run better times.

I race with some of the fastest guys on ps4 most every night. Guys that will make you never want to get online again. Its mostly all GT racing but these guys are the best in the different GT3 series out there. I never hear them talking about ffb, ever. We all do the same thing pretty much. Get some globals(alot of t300 guys use mopwr and fantec with haiden) that feel good, use jacks in car settings to which set you like and thats it. As long as we can feel all the outputs we need from car and our inputs translate to car correctly and we are not clipping then we are good. We adapt from there. We don't try to make the car feel like what we think it should feel like because we have no clue what a real car feels like. We adapt to the car which takes time and practice. That's the key. Adapt to the car and not the other way around.

I touched on this before but remember the 2 things that are 100% proven through telemetry that the best drivers in the world do and other try to imitate.

1. They turn in sooner - Even if just a hundredth of a second they always seem to have the edge here which allows better apexes and speed on exit.
2. Less wheel movement - Easy way to say it is that the move their hands less. Its like they know exactly where the wheel needs to go to make the turn and they don't miss that spot.


The smaller ratio is what helps me make less mistakes. When I use a larger ratio its harder for me find the exact spot and I miss by even a cm and need to correct then I have lost speed and maybe tire life. Maybe some guys can use a huge ratio and be pretty perfect but I can't. I couldn't in real life either and why it was suggested to use smaller ratio. So when you are driving and go into a corner or even on straight and you feel like you are fighting the wheel or correcting, or alot of see sawing you are LOSING SPEED. Reduced ratio was the key for me, small mistakes come across as bigger ones but you will get used to it after time and get better on the wheel if this is a issue for you.


I have to agree with gotdirt on tuning also. Makes driving the cars so much more enjoyable and competitive. Grimey, here is some data on the ruf gt3, a car I know you love just to show you how the suspension calculator can fix the issues with the stock suspension from the start. Remember these defaults are not race ready, they are how they ship from the manufacture to race teams. The audi is another with a terrible default tune. 2 cars I drive alot, the z4 and new ats are very nice at default but still alot of time to be had with tuning.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24253-Ruf-RGT-8-GT3-setup-for-better-behaviour-over-bumps-Eau-Rouge&p=1022292&viewfull=1#post1022292

wrote this in a hurry so sorry for any mistakes and headed to work. Ill check back in later. You guys should start up the new thread and we can get further into tuning procedures and good references and data for racing and tuning.

Fight-Test
30-03-2016, 15:41
We might be saying the same thing, but I think if you're ratio is too low, it lessens your ability to be smooth in some corners--steering with smaller inputs. When you turn too tightly, you can scrub, and scrub affects tire wear.

I think we are saying same thing and I agree with that, if I do make a mistake. With a small ratio mistakes are amplified compared to a larger one. But if im not making mistakes which I think its easier to make less with a small ratio then you can be faster with less scrubbing and less correcting which cost time. It is hard to get adjusted too and get smooth with at first. You have to right the first time and aren't allowed to be wrong very often with a small ratio. ok, really got to go to work.

Haiden
30-03-2016, 16:22
We adapt from there. We don't try to make the car feel like what we think it should feel like because we have no clue what a real car feels like. We adapt to the car which takes time and practice. That's the key. Adapt to the car and not the other way around.

I touched on this before but remember the 2 things that are 100% proven through telemetry that the best drivers in the world do and other try to imitate.

1. They turn in sooner - Even if just a hundredth of a second they always seem to have the edge here which allows better apexes and speed on exit.

This is why I climbed out of the rabbit hole with FFB. I'd gotten to the point where the difference between tunes was only .500 of a second and realized that it really didn't matter anymore. I just needed to pick the one that felt the best, and then give myself time to settle into it. I knew I could never truly settle into an FFB tune if I kept bouncing back and forth testing.

The turn in point is true. I've been driving Silverstone for a while, and just recently found a spot on a corner that I can turn in earlier. It's strange, because your instincts say "you're gonna hit that wall if you turn in now." But you don't, you come very close, but you make it, and carry much more speed through and keep a straighter line so you can get right back on the throttle. :)


I think we are saying same thing and I agree with that, if I do make a mistake. With a small ratio mistakes are amplified compared to a larger one. But if im not making mistakes which I think its easier to make less with a small ratio then you can be faster with less scrubbing and less correcting which cost time. It is hard to get adjusted too and get smooth with at first. You have to right the first time and aren't allowed to be wrong very often with a small ratio. ok, really got to go to work.

This makes total sense. I used to use lower ratios in other games, but the ratio bug in PCars (not taking affect in session) was getting on my nerves, so I stopped changing it and just started driving the defaults. I've gotten used to them, and it's taking me a while to get back to lower ratios. I've been lowering it in the FA (I think I'm at 9:4:1). But it's going to take a little more time, before I get used to it and stop turning by inches and start turning my centimeters. :) But you're right, it can definitely make your steering inputs smoother and less work.

morpwr
30-03-2016, 16:29
What sensitivity you run with in your controls?

Mine are:
Deadzone=0 (All), Sensitivity=80/95/95/100 (Steering, Gas, Brake, Clutch)

Same as you except steering 90 and throttle 100 and brake 50. I think I need to change the brake to higher though. It was sort of a band aid from when I got the load cell.

GrimeyDog
30-03-2016, 16:54
vrhive - you will need a laptop or pc to run it. http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?33881-vrHive-PC-XB1-PS4-Dashes-Telemetry-Live-Data-Arduino-Client-Server-more


Spot on to what? The real car? What feels good to you? No right or wrong answer as Ratio is subjective and can be changed by ratio, arm angle and sensitivity (this one might effect more than ratio). Its very much to what the user likes and wants to feel but since we have never driven these cars how do we really know what they feel like. The reason haiden and alot of guys have trouble with tires with a smaller ratio is that what used to take a inch on the wheel with a ratio of 13.6.1 is now a cm with 6.9.1. Margin of error greatly increases for the user. If your a driver with alot of over correcting then a small ratio will be very hard to adjust too. You must take all that you know and condense it then minimize any mistakes. A little mistake on a small ratio is like a big mistake on a big ratio. This means you have to get pretty dang consistent and good. At the same time WHen im going into a corner I can easily get my wheel to a exact spot I know I need to get to to make corner. I don't have to see saw on the wheel with over corrections or if car pushes. Its not easy at first but It can be a great benefit. You will get less movement on the wheel, so less tire movement and longer tire life. You will have less corrections on wheel so you will scrub less speed when you aren't on a perfect line. Every time your hands move to correct or catch the car you lose time. This is more frequent with a larger ratio so why not use a smaller ratio and work on reducing hand movement which will in turn increase your speed, tire life and help you run better times.

I race with some of the fastest guys on ps4 most every night. Guys that will make you never want to get online again. Its mostly all GT racing but these guys are the best in the different GT3 series out there. I never hear them talking about ffb, ever. We all do the same thing pretty much. Get some globals(alot of t300 guys use mopwr and fantec with haiden) that feel good, use jacks in car settings to which set you like and thats it. As long as we can feel all the outputs we need from car and our inputs translate to car correctly and we are not clipping then we are good. We adapt from there. We don't try to make the car feel like what we think it should feel like because we have no clue what a real car feels like. We adapt to the car which takes time and practice. That's the key. Adapt to the car and not the other way around.

I touched on this before but remember the 2 things that are 100% proven through telemetry that the best drivers in the world do and other try to imitate.

1. They turn in sooner - Even if just a hundredth of a second they always seem to have the edge here which allows better apexes and speed on exit.
2. Less wheel movement - Easy way to say it is that the move their hands less. Its like they know exactly where the wheel needs to go to make the turn and they don't miss that spot.


The smaller ratio is what helps me make less mistakes. When I use a larger ratio its harder for me find the exact spot and I miss by even a cm and need to correct then I have lost speed and maybe tire life. Maybe some guys can use a huge ratio and be pretty perfect but I can't. I couldn't in real life either and why it was suggested to use smaller ratio. So when you are driving and go into a corner or even on straight and you feel like you are fighting the wheel or correcting, or alot of see sawing you are LOSING SPEED. Reduced ratio was the key for me, small mistakes come across as bigger ones but you will get used to it after time and get better on the wheel if this is a issue for you.


I have to agree with gotdirt on tuning also. Makes driving the cars so much more enjoyable and competitive. Grimey, here is some data on the ruf gt3, a car I know you love just to show you how the suspension calculator can fix the issues with the stock suspension from the start. Remember these defaults are not race ready, they are how they ship from the manufacture to race teams. The audi is another with a terrible default tune. 2 cars I drive alot, the z4 and new ats are very nice at default but still alot of time to be had with tuning.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24253-Ruf-RGT-8-GT3-setup-for-better-behaviour-over-bumps-Eau-Rouge&p=1022292&viewfull=1#post1022292

wrote this in a hurry so sorry for any mistakes and headed to work. Ill check back in later. You guys should start up the new thread and we can get further into tuning procedures and good references and data for racing and tuning.

What it all Really comes down to is what you are used to...The Best Gear and Tunes and you will still lose time if its not what your Familiar with or Doesnt Match your driving style...the set up you are Most Consistant with is best... Consistancy is the Key

SGETI
30-03-2016, 17:13
Whats the web site??? .

For tunes I have been using this site, http://projectcarssetups.eu/#/bycar There is a calculator within the site. create tune > toggle calculator. You can then custom a tune to YOUR driving style. Trying to match your style of driving to a some else's tune can be frustrating. Try it out, There is also a separate program same calculator, which Flight referred to. http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?32940-A-new-home-for-all-your-setups&p=1033985&viewfull=1#post1033985

morpwr
30-03-2016, 17:30
Yep. I can't remember when I first felt it, but in one of my old tunes it was more pronounced. Now, it's subtle, and I have to be paying attention; otherwise, I overlook it. The other thing that's strange about it is, Watkins is a really rough track. Even if the paint did register with the tire model, you would think the surface texture of that track would mask it.

That's a good idea--asking someone that's driven the track.

They said its not that big which I pretty much figured.

Haiden
30-03-2016, 22:45
What it all Really comes down to is what you are used to...The Best Gear and Tunes and you will still lose time if its not what your Familiar with or Doesnt Match your driving style...the set up you are Most Consistant with is best... Consistancy is the Key

To a degree. Plenty of professional drivers find themselves having to relearn or conform to new techniques as they move through the ranks, because their old habits no longer work in the new class. Teams do their best to accommodate driver style and preferences, but there are limitations. Just because you're consistent doesn't mean there isn't room for improvement. And improvement often means learning to do something differently. :)

GrimeyDog
30-03-2016, 22:49
You bring up a point ive been meaning to bring up. The paint line is not really a good indicator of good ffb to a point. With some of the ffb setups we have had it would have to be half an inch thick to feel like that in real life.lol Its a painted line. My old settings were like that it was very obvious when you ran over it with my new ones you still can but its not nearly as obvious. But there is a lot more overall detail in the important forces.


They said its not that big which I pretty much figured.

I can feel the line but its not a huge bump... i only use it as a indicator that the subtle road feel is there... if you look at my telemetry its just a little blip in the line that can be felt.

GrimeyDog
30-03-2016, 23:03
To a degree. Plenty of professional drivers find themselves having to relearn or conform to new techniques as they move through the ranks, because their old habits no longer work in the new class. Teams do their best to accommodate driver style and preferences, but there are limitations. Just because you're consistent doesn't mean there isn't room for improvement. And improvement often means learning to do something differently. :)


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Consistency is key... Ex Audi has won many Lemans races not because they had the fastest car but because they are very consistent the Peugot 908 HDi FAP was much faster than the audi but they could not be consistent.

Yes there is always room for improvement but unless your consistent the fastest car or best equipment is of little to no use.

BTW i was sooo happy when Porsche came back and dominated Audi last year!!! This year the 24hrs of Lemans should be a clash of the titans!!! Toyota been lagging behind but they may pull out a suprise this year... I hope so... Porsche is going to try and Krush audi again but i think audi took that Loss hard last year and are out for revenge!!! Porsche only came back because Audi was about to match and if unstopped beat Porsche record of 24 hr Lemans wins!!!

GrimeyDog
30-03-2016, 23:19
Question??? has any one else using a V2 ever Noticed that the wheel has always been Slightly Off center while driving??? it was very very slightly of center... 10.0 seems to have fixed that....I'm Very happy about that:applouse:

Haiden
31-03-2016, 00:36
Question??? has any one else using a V2 ever Noticed that the wheel has always been Slightly Off center while driving??? it was very very slightly of center... 10.0 seems to have fixed that....I'm Very happy about that:applouse:

I had that before, but it was a calibration issue. When you calibrate your wheel after flashing firmware, if you move the wheel before you switch to setup mode, it will leave it slightly off center. After I recalibrated it correctly was fine. I also read that you need to do the calibration twice, even though the calibration message isn't showing on the LED after the first time you do it. I don't know if that's true, but I always do it anyway, just in case. Not aware of any game related issue. But when it happened to me, it stopped slightly off-center after it ran through the startup self-calibration. But it's been perfectly centered since well before 10.0.

tennenbaum
31-03-2016, 00:38
Right! GrimeyDog: delete Watkins Glen and the RUF GT3 from your game! That addiction is no good :p

lol. no way, of course it's good!! ;)

morpwr
31-03-2016, 00:52
I can feel the line but its not a huge bump... i only use it as a indicator that the subtle road feel is there... if you look at my telemetry its just a little blip in the line that can be felt.

I only brought it up because many watch this forum that we don't know about and that paint line seems to get mentioned a lot when talking about ffb settings. Because the paint line isn't as strong doesn't mean youre going in the wrong direction with settings was all I was getting at.

morpwr
31-03-2016, 01:18
To a degree. Plenty of professional drivers find themselves having to relearn or conform to new techniques as they move through the ranks, because their old habits no longer work in the new class. Teams do their best to accommodate driver style and preferences, but there are limitations. Just because you're consistent doesn't mean there isn't room for improvement. And improvement often means learning to do something differently. :)

Well put as always Haiden. I'm usually really consistent once I get in a groove a lot of times ill be within a tenth or two. But does that mean I cant improve? I'm doing exactly that right now. I know where my weak points are so I'm forcing myself to try and improve on it. Driving formula cars :rolleyes: I hate them.lol Actually I think they hate me. I have a hard time trusting the downforce in corners my brain says your going to fast for that corner. The other thing is you really need good foot work to get the most out of them. Both things I could improve on that will help with the other cars. I just wish sms had made the ai aware they don't have doors or fenders.:p

Haiden
31-03-2016, 02:05
Well put as always Haiden. I'm usually really consistent once I get in a groove a lot of times ill be within a tenth or two. But does that mean I cant improve? I'm doing exactly that right now. I know where my weak points are so I'm forcing myself to try and improve on it. Driving formula cars :rolleyes: I hate them.lol Actually I think they hate me. I have a hard time trusting the downforce in corners my brain says your going to fast for that corner. The other thing is you really need good foot work to get the most out of them. Both things I could improve on that will help with the other cars. I just wish sms had made the ai aware they don't have doors or fenders.:p

That's funny to me, because I'm the opposite. I like F1 racing, and went straight to the FA when PCars came out. Lately, I've been trying to settle into GT3. But my problem is I miss the aero, and have to really focus on braking earlier and relying more on mechanical grip. I've been trying to improve my pedal work, too. That's a weakness of mine in both the FA and GT3, all around to be honest.

It really is amazing how much grip the FA can generate at high speed. I'm liking the GT3 class more and more, though. I can see why it's so popular.

gotdirt410sprintcar
31-03-2016, 03:31
Whats the web site??? i have been waiting for the FFB to be Settled... I tune the Cars to the Steering wheel feel... When a car feels lazy i adjust the Cars Toe, Camber, Rear end etc to get it to turn i dont want to have to set DOR per car. But is it ever settled thats the ? You look at I racing all the tracks are laser scanned , not all tracks are here thats when FFB changes or you go WTF!!! We need all tracks that can be scanned done or give me globals settings anywhere in the game or globals save per car/track and three saves per track SMS!! You almost have to do it that way.

Youtube is where you find zakespeed and there is one guy explains what the car is doing when you change stuff. But he doesn't talk its all done with him typing it. Any way you can watch his video right down what every setting does then start tuning. He shows you what happens when you go one way or the other. Like SGETI said best to have your own tune

tennenbaum
31-03-2016, 10:52
But is it ever settled thats the ? You look at I racing all the tracks are laser scanned , not all tracks are here thats when FFB changes or you go WTF!!! We need all tracks that can be scanned done or give me globals settings anywhere in the game or globals save per car/track and three saves per track SMS!! You almost have to do it that way.

Youtube is where you find zakespeed and there is one guy explains what the car is doing when you change stuff. But he doesn't talk its all done with him typing it. Any way you can watch his video right down what every setting does then start tuning. He shows you what happens when you go one way or the other. Like SGETI said best to have your own tune

Zakspeed_TV was a good hint.

GrimeyDog
31-03-2016, 11:25
But is it ever settled thats the ? You look at I racing all the tracks are laser scanned , not all tracks are here thats when FFB changes or you go WTF!!! We need all tracks that can be scanned done or give me globals settings anywhere in the game or globals save per car/track and three saves per track SMS!! You almost have to do it that way.

Youtube is where you find zakespeed and there is one guy explains what the car is doing when you change stuff. But he doesn't talk its all done with him typing it. Any way you can watch his video right down what every setting does then start tuning. He shows you what happens when you go one way or the other. Like SGETI said best to have your own tune

I been sooo Lazy with the Car Tweeking dont even change the tire PSI or Down Force... LOL... in GT3 because thats what i Mostly Race so im Very adjusted to Car Feel i dont Change anything!!! and i can Run Fast Laps with the best of them...For Me the best tune is the 1 im Most Familiar and Consistent with.

baza4173
31-03-2016, 14:42
@morpwr thanks for posting these ive tried these on my t300 and works a treat just what ive been looking for in my wheel my friend also tried it on his t150 and works just as good he says it defo a must try if any one finding it hard to get a good global setting even leaving all fx fy scales etc as standard works nice but people can adjust if prefered but yeah im very happy with this cheers :D:yes: btw this is referring to your global ffb settings a good few pages back lol

morpwr
31-03-2016, 15:07
@morpwr thanks for posting these ive tried these on my t300 and works a treat just what ive been looking for in my wheel my friend also tried it on his t150 and works just as good he says it defo a must try if any one finding it hard to get a good global setting even leaving all fx fy scales etc as standard works nice but people can adjust if prefered but yeah im very happy with this cheers :D:yes:

It wasn't my intention but it seems they work well on most thrustmaster wheels as I'm coming to find out. Try them with jacks classic settings if you like it now youll love it with those.

baza4173
31-03-2016, 16:27
Did you mean the ffb settings on that oscarolim site for classic fy fz mz sop etc

morpwr
31-03-2016, 16:32
Did you mean the ffb settings on that oscarolim site for classic fy fz mz sop etc

Yes jacks car ffb settings.

baza4173
31-03-2016, 16:46
Yes just tried very nice settings thats me playing for hours again :D

morpwr
31-03-2016, 17:02
Nice. Glad to have you back.

GrimeyDog
31-03-2016, 20:49
Ford MK IV FFB Test

https://youtu.be/nnJzNXWqIzs

The better FFB Feel Really allows me to better throttle control because i can feel exactly what the car is doing:yes: You can See in the Telemetry how i really had to Feather the Throttle during the up hill section that leads to the Straight before the bus stop... The Car Really wants to Break Loose there under Heavy throttle.

I have caught My unicorn:D

Edit: Nice... The FFB feels Exactly How it Looks on the Graph and without having to fight the wheel...Very Nice Subtle Road Feel with Good weight Transfer feel.... while in the Corners you can Hear the tires Scrubbing and the FFB Graph Lines up with with what you Hear... Even under Heavy weight Transfer Load with No Clipping... I can feel Everything in the Graph:yes:...So far this is the best Feel yet.

Watch the Sweeper turn after the Bus Stop... You will see the Unicorn Laying there!!! I caught it and Ran it over;)

Edit: The More cars i try and Really settle into this RAC 75 tweek the Better it Feels... It took a couple of days to shake off that Heavy Wheel and FFB feel i was used to....This Tweek is performing better than I expected!!! its Really Changing My Pcars experience for the Better!!! I Really enjoy Driving sooo Many More Cars and Car Classes Now:yes:.... I think im finally getting over My Addiction to Gt3 and the Ruf:p

Since i came up with the RAC 75 tweek i have tried to Re work it in every way i could think of to get detail and better Feel to No Avail... I ended up back at the original RAC 75 settings that are posted in My latest PDF... Im going into FFB Rehab so i can shake off the FFB tweek Addiction!!! and get back to enjoying Racing:yes:

gotdirt410sprintcar
01-04-2016, 00:11
Well I raced last night and tuned at the same time amazing lol. The FFB as I was changing things got better I was in a room first practice was two hours I joined it had forty one minutes left then ten for qualifying. The guys had 50 laps in at road America fast time I. P1 was 2.06.something by lap four I was in the 2.10,s anyway I started second right at start I got the flip over bug I just quit

But that 50 minutes of tuning was good and the FFB is so much more when tuning

And i'm ready for some racing this weekend SOMEONE ANYONE CLEAN ONLY

PureMalt77
01-04-2016, 06:42
Well I raced last night and tuned at the same time amazing lol. The FFB as I was changing things got better I was in a room first practice was two hours I joined it had forty one minutes left then ten for qualifying. The guys had 50 laps in at road America fast time I. P1 was 2.06.something by lap four I was in the 2.10,s anyway I started second right at start I got the flip over bug I just quit

But that 50 minutes of tuning was good and the FFB is so much more when tuning

And i'm ready for some racing this weekend SOMEONE ANYONE CLEAN ONLY

check out our modest league: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?45632-World-CARS-Championship-March-April-2016

is mid-season and only problem is, cannot promise a free spot, but if you wanna try and be online, I call you in. No online practice, you gotta do it offline. Calendar in the 2nd post

morpwr
01-04-2016, 11:09
Ford MK IV FFB Test

https://youtu.be/nnJzNXWqIzs

The better FFB Feel Really allows me to better throttle control because i can feel exactly what the car is doing:yes:
I have caught My unicorn:D

Nice... The FFB feels Exactly How it Looks on the Graph and without having to fight the wheel...Very Nice Subtle Road Feel with Good weight Transfer feel.... while in the Corners you can Hear the tires Scrubbing and the FFB Graph Lines up with with what you Hear... Even under Heavy weight Transfer Load with No Clipping... I can feel Everything in the Graph:yes:...So far this is the best Feelyet.

Watch the Sweeper turn after the Bus Stop... You will see the Unicorn Laying there!!! I caught it and Ran it over;)

Nice grimey. Isnt hunting season over.:p

GrimeyDog
01-04-2016, 11:23
Nice grimey. Isnt hunting season over.:p

;) it is Now... LOL

morpwr
01-04-2016, 11:28
Don't laugh at this but I was running formula rookie last night at Silverstone. I hate flat tracks and it has some really weird corners that are hard to hit the apex right on. I can see why they use those cars at driving schools. Everything is important because you don't have a lot of anything hp,brakes,downforce,even using drafting becomes important when planning a pass on a straight. The ai will run you over if you put yourself in a bad spot trying to make a pass so you really need to make sure before attempting one. As much as everyone bitches about how bad they are most of the time its because you tried to force the pass . The other thing especially on a few corners you have to learn to trust the grip to be fast through them. You can easily cook the left rear tire picking poor lines or sliding the car in corners which usually ends poorly. By the 3rd race I was pacing at top ten lap times pretty easily but even for a refresher or for new guys id say its definitely worth doing.

Titzon Toast
01-04-2016, 18:41
Don't laugh at this but I was running formula rookie last night at Silverstone. I hate flat tracks and it has some really weird corners that are hard to hit the apex right on. I can see why they use those cars at driving schools. Everything is important because you don't have a lot of anything hp,brakes,downforce,even using drafting becomes important when planning a pass on a straight. The ai will run you over if you put yourself in a bad spot trying to make a pass so you really need to make sure before attempting one. As much as everyone bitches about how bad they are most of the time its because you tried to force the pass . The other thing especially on a few corners you have to learn to trust the grip to be fast through them. You can easily cook the left rear tire picking poor lines or sliding the car in corners which usually ends poorly. By the 3rd race I was pacing at top ten lap times pretty easily but even for a refresher or for new guys id say its definitely worth doing.

The Rookies are the purest cars in the game I reckon. They work well pretty much everywhere.

gotdirt410sprintcar
02-04-2016, 23:47
I just did a 3 hour race in career in the McLaren f1 run out of gas with 46 minutes left lol on last turn too coasted to pit lane where it takes over it put me in the garage

GrimeyDog
03-04-2016, 01:38
I just did a 3 hour race in career in the McLaren f1 run out of gas with 46 minutes left lol on last turn too coasted to pit lane where it takes over it put me in the garage

That race we did last night was Good!!! I dont know what happened Lap 40 i lost gear input and couldn't shift after i left the pit!!! i miss calculated my fuel and had to make the extra pit but i was still in good standing until i lost gear function... i think i my shifter lever switch was outta place between SQ and H pattern... by the time i figured it out it was too late... It was a good race though.

gotdirt410sprintcar
03-04-2016, 05:38
Yeah it was I don't know what happened at the beginning but everyone was close I felt a bump then no one was there . Someone tried to pass me in the first corner that's when that happened. that turn is not a good place to pass in less you have plenty of room best to follow a guy then try to get under them going threw the second corner. Took me half the race to get to know how far to turn the wheel car FFB wasn't perfect.

I adjusted the arm angle was about it I have noticed that seems to clean up how the steering feels like if it feels like a semi truck wheel it seems too clean that up but it can be many different things so make sure what you feel is right be for changing. I think you get the steering sensitive where you like it and then ratio and arm angle all work together Imo feels that way.

pr0j3ct
05-04-2016, 17:35
Just tried Grime Dog's settings on my G29, with a few tweaks and I must say it feels incredible!

konnos
05-04-2016, 18:54
Really? They are horrendous on mine, I swear there is a ton of compression in there, masked by the low FFB and the RAClamp.

Ekay.jay
05-04-2016, 19:15
I tried grimey' settings and thought they were pretty good. I still ended up back at Morpwr's settings though, there's just something about them that feels really good.

pr0j3ct
05-04-2016, 19:39
Yeah, I think they are good. Just top up the fz value of the cars to 70 and feels better. I will post full settings tomorrow.

GrimeyDog
05-04-2016, 20:04
Really? They are horrendous on mine, I swear there is a ton of compression in there, masked by the low FFB and the RAClamp.

Thats the beauty of Pcars you can tweek it to feel any way you like:p

Just curios which settings have you tried??? Have you tried the latest version??? but remember if your not on a fanatec wheel you still have to set your GM FFB according to your wheel.

also i will be making a new PDF with the SoP Lat Change and Notes... In the PDF SoP lat is set to 10.... I Now set SoP lat to "0" all other settings remain the same... SoP lat "0" gives even more road feel when cornering.

With the latest setting i adjust wheel weight/FFB strength per car with the In car masters...the masters can be set to max(200) with No Clipping!!! But i doubt that any car will need masters that High:p

Settings shown at end of Video... car Driven is Menault Magane

https://youtu.be/u5NjaKosL1s

pr0j3ct
05-04-2016, 20:18
Sorry to dissatisfy anyone but just tested my settings on another car and well we will stick to saying 'hmmm'. I'll stick with yours GrimeyDog.

Edit. When will this PDF be coming?

gotdirt410sprintcar
05-04-2016, 21:04
Yo yo what's up peeps hay grimey try this sk40 sr50 I really like the feeling test with out changing anything give me your thoughts on it. I think Sr should be higher than sk

GrimeyDog
05-04-2016, 21:21
Sorry to dissatisfy anyone but just tested my settings on another car and well we will stick to saying 'hmmm'. I'll stick with yours GrimeyDog.

Edit. When will this PDF be coming?

I will try and make it tonight..there are No big changes i'm just going to Add Info that will help users to better tweek the setting to their personal taste.
For now Just set SoP lat to "0" test and see how you like the Feel...If the wheel Feels heavy you can Lower the In car masters to taste... Setting SoP lat to "0" adds some wheel weight but more cornering feel.

IMO i think the SoP Lat should have been adjustable by increments of 2 instead of 10... that would have given a better range of control over the SoP feel.

GrimeyDog
05-04-2016, 21:26
Yo yo what's up peeps hay grimey try this sk40 sr50 I really like the feeling test with out changing anything give me your thoughts on it. I think Sr should be higher than sk

i will try it:yes:

cheezz_KRACKER
07-04-2016, 21:15
Hay Grimy Dog lets talk racing.

NEW: League Racing Series Friday Night & Sunday!

Thanks for asking us to expand our League and Series times! Saturday Series Coming Soon.

Ask yourself the following questions to see if you should join the Half-Fast Racing League:

•Looking for an alternative to racing online with strangers?

•Sick of kids blaring music or acting like thugs in public lobbies?

•Hate qualifying at the front of the grid only to be punted off the track in the very first turn?

•Tired of "racers" who rage quit if they aren't in the top 3?
•Want to race with people who are respectful, fair, and consistent drivers?
•Come check us out at www.halffastsimracing.com
•Send cheezz_KRACKER or GUTTER-BOY a PSN request

Ekay.jay
07-04-2016, 21:49
This is a FFB thread, not a multiplayer/ league thread....

GrimeyDog
07-04-2016, 22:59
Hay Grimy Dog lets talk racing.

NEW: League Racing Series Friday Night & Sunday!

Thanks for asking us to expand our League and Series times! Saturday Series Coming Soon.

Ask yourself the following questions to see if you should join the Half-Fast Racing League:

•Looking for an alternative to racing online with strangers?

•Sick of kids blaring music or acting like thugs in public lobbies?

•Hate qualifying at the front of the grid only to be punted off the track in the very first turn?

•Tired of "racers" who rage quit if they aren't in the top 3?
•Want to race with people who are respectful, fair, and consistent drivers?
•Come check us out at www.halffastsimracing.com (http://www.halffastsimracing.com)
•Send cheezz_KRACKER or GUTTER-BOY a PSN request



No Prob Cheezz kRACKER i will be there to Race with you all Again... Last Friday night Race was great!!

GrimeyDog
07-04-2016, 23:01
This is a FFB thread, not a multiplayer/ league thread....

its Ok Thats my dude!!! We race together all the time... He is a good clean racer...and also he Is alotta fun to race with:D

gotdirt410sprintcar
08-04-2016, 00:02
I want in for Friday not working again pretty please with project cars on top

GrimeyDog
08-04-2016, 00:32
I want in for Friday not working again pretty please with project cars on top

Your In I will send you a invite.

any 1 else want in???

Ekay.jay
08-04-2016, 00:46
What time? I may jump in on this

GrimeyDog
08-04-2016, 01:03
What time? I may jump in on this


10pm eastern time...Last week was alotta fun and a great race...45 laps!!!
I will send you a invite if your on:D

cheezz_KRACKER
08-04-2016, 02:30
I want to try them Buttkickers bad. And do you know if you can do a triple monitor stand for ps4.

cheezz_KRACKER
08-04-2016, 02:31
I didn't get your settings for Dirt FFB.

cheezz_KRACKER
08-04-2016, 02:37
Qualification starts at 10:00 EST
we also have a count down timer on the front page of the website. www.halffastsimracing.com

gotdirt410sprintcar
08-04-2016, 02:40
I will sighn up tonight or tomorrow morning

cheezz_KRACKER
08-04-2016, 03:49
So you are in got dirt.

BigDad
08-04-2016, 06:42
This is a FFB thread, not a multiplayer/ league thread....

So, anyone got any Dirt ffb settings yet.

GrimeyDog
08-04-2016, 08:44
I want to try them Buttkickers bad. And do you know if you can do a triple monitor stand for ps4.

No Tripples but the Buttkickers are Really Good.... adds alot of immersion.

cheezz_KRACKER
09-04-2016, 03:53
Hay Grimey Dog how about them dirt FFB settings for dirt.

inthebagbud
09-04-2016, 08:22
Grimey am I right that you have a fanatec? Just got one myself and something occurred to me that I am sure you mess with the settings on the wheel, if so this should not make any difference when using on console as the console can't read the driver settings as they are for PC only?

konnos
09-04-2016, 11:31
You can play with the on-board settings of the wheelbase, but yes you do not have access to the detailed driver settings like on the PC.

gotdirt410sprintcar
09-04-2016, 12:38
You can play with the on-board settings of the wheelbase, but yes you do not have access to the detailed driver settings like on the PC.
Why not all these high tech sim games you think the console side would take the step and allow us to have access to the drivers like on pc.

GrimeyDog
09-04-2016, 13:48
Grimey am I right that you have a fanatec? Just got one myself and something occurred to me that I am sure you mess with the settings on the wheel, if so this should not make any difference when using on console as the console can't read the driver settings as they are for PC only?

The Wheel settings do make a difference on console...i Run all My Wheel settings Stock... I only adjust Wheel FFB strength

morpwr
09-04-2016, 13:59
I want to try them Buttkickers bad. And do you know if you can do a triple monitor stand for ps4.

Youll love the buttkickers! After using it for a while if you forget to turn it on youll think something is wrong with the game.lol Definitely worth the money.

inthebagbud
09-04-2016, 14:17
The Wheel settings do make a difference on console...i Run all My Wheel settings Stock... I only adjust Wheel FFB strength

Yes kind of worked it out as you do the settings direct on wheel, my only difference is I don't get option for FOR. SPR. DPR only get BRF what ever that is as it doesn't appear in manual?

I tried your wheel settings and understand what you mean by feeling everything.. it is good but I found the wheel very bouncy around the centre

SGETI
09-04-2016, 14:33
Youll love the buttkickers! After using it for a while if you forget to turn it on youll think something is wrong with the game.lol Definitely worth the money.

I just spent an hour looking to buy, and they are sold out. I must have visited 20 different sites. I even visited music store sites, all sold out. If you have a lead on who actually has them in stock for sale, a link would be greatly appreciated.

morpwr
09-04-2016, 14:38
I just spent an hour looking to buy, and they are sold out. I must have visited 20 different sites. I even visited music store sites, all sold out. If you have a lead on who actually has them in stock for sale, a link would be greatly appreciated.

I didn't use the gamer one. I used the next one up with the remote so you can adjust the volume from the seat. Price wasn't much different.

RobboCod
09-04-2016, 15:52
If I may, I'd like to just mention that I've been viewing this thread quietly from a non registered stand point until today. I want to thank all the people on here who have endlessly tinkered, faffed and fiddled with the myriad of FFB settings on this game. It has been a great help to people like me with less patience than time, who could never have found the near perfect settings for their preferred wheel. You have made this game for me, and it is appreciated. Sorry for the ramble, butt kissing over ;o)

Ekay.jay
09-04-2016, 16:03
I just spent an hour looking to buy, and they are sold out. I must have visited 20 different sites. I even visited music store sites, all sold out. If you have a lead on who actually has them in stock for sale, a link would be greatly appreciated.


They have been on back order for months now. I had already waited 3 months, then they sent me an email saying it could be another 2 months before they have one, I canceled my order. Ended up going with 4 aura pro shakers with a Dayton audio amp.

gazza1101
09-04-2016, 16:36
They have been on back order for months now. I had already waited 3 months, then they sent me an email saying it could be another 2 months before they have one, I canceled my order. Ended up going with 4 aura pro shakers with a Dayton audio amp. How about one of these? http://www.earthquakesound.eu/gaming-audio/bass-shaker-and-accessories/shell-shoxx.aspx. I have one and find it very effective.

Haiden
09-04-2016, 17:08
I just spent an hour looking to buy, and they are sold out. I must have visited 20 different sites. I even visited music store sites, all sold out. If you have a lead on who actually has them in stock for sale, a link would be greatly appreciated.

Same here. One of the re-sellers I spoke to said their system showed they were expecting a shipment around May 21st. Hopefully, the Buttkicker direct site will have them before or around that date, as well. I already ordered the mounting bracket for my rig. Looks like I've got a month and a half to install it. :)

GrimeyDog
09-04-2016, 17:55
I just spent an hour looking to buy, and they are sold out. I must have visited 20 different sites. I even visited music store sites, all sold out. If you have a lead on who actually has them in stock for sale, a link would be greatly appreciated.

Thats exactly how i ended up with 2 buttkickers i ordered a spare because the one i had was acting up...Turned out to be a lose wire...they are always out of Stock... Sign up for their mailing list they will email.you when they get back in stock.

What is the site for the Aura shakers???

Ekay.jay
09-04-2016, 18:50
https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=Aura%20pro%20&sitesearch=true

SGETI
09-04-2016, 19:37
How about one of these? http://www.earthquakesound.eu/gaming-audio/bass-shaker-and-accessories/shell-shoxx.aspx. I have one and find it very effective.

All the numbers and stats Looks great, but $375.00 + is more than I want to spend to tickle my ass.

Ekay.jay
09-04-2016, 19:50
All the numbers and stats Looks great, but $375.00 + is more than I want to spend to tickle my ass.

Mine does more than tickle my ass. It shakes my whole rig, feels like I'm actually in the car.

morpwr
09-04-2016, 20:33
All the numbers and stats Looks great, but $375.00 + is more than I want to spend to tickle my ass.

Buttkicker simulation kit is what I got for 149.00. It will shake my rig to the point you don't want to sit in it. I just mounted it to a piece of mdf under my seat. Plus it comes with a wired remote to turn it on and off and adjust the volume. Just turning up the game volume one makes a big difference so it a nice feature being able to adjust it from the seat. You should be able to find them on amazon.

GrimeyDog
09-04-2016, 20:39
Ass Tickle 2x!!! LOL...I run them left input and right input.

Don't Let your Lady sit in the chair you may never get her out of it:p

I still have the Mount from when i just used 1....$10.00 home depot pipe fit mount:victorious:

GrimeyDog
09-04-2016, 20:50
Yes kind of worked it out as you do the settings direct on wheel, my only difference is I don't get option for FOR. SPR. DPR only get BRF what ever that is as it doesn't appear in manual?

I tried your wheel settings and understand what you mean by feeling everything.. it is good but I found the wheel very bouncy around the centre

if your using the latest PDF RAC75 then you may need to turn the masters up for that particular car... Thats how these settings work... if 1 car feel right and another feels light then turn the in car masters up until the feel is right for you....also the Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz & SoP can be adjusted to your personal liking to bring out the feel you most want.

Edit: make sure the Advanced settings Tab is set to Off.

Edit: What wheel are you using??? You should get all the other on wheel settings...The BrF only is shown when you are using V3 pedals, its the on the wheel "B"rake "r"eduction "F"orce setting.

cheezz_KRACKER
09-04-2016, 21:45
I'm so jealous, i want butt-kickers.

morpwr
09-04-2016, 22:07
Ass Tickle 2x!!! LOL...I run them left input and right input.

Don't Let your Lady sit in the chair you may never get her out of it:p

I still have the Mount from when i just used 1....$10.00 home depot pipe fit mount:victorious:

That's funny! I told mine I better not see her using it as a replacement for me. I got told I was a pig.lmao

morpwr
09-04-2016, 22:07
I'm so jealous, i want butt-kickers.

No you NEED them.:cool:

inthebagbud
10-04-2016, 06:27
Edit: What wheel are you using??? You should get all the other on wheel settings...The BrF only is shown when you are using V3 pedals, its the on the wheel "B"rake "r"eduction "F"orce setting.

The wheel is the forza gt wheel so not sure if that makes a difference but I wouldn't have thought so.

And what does BrF do as can't find any explanation anywhere for it

Thanks

cheezz_KRACKER
11-04-2016, 09:54
I know 2 people that have had they wheels broke from dirt. They both said the same thing that the wheel now moves north and south (up&down). One said he had it turned up all the way, the guy said he didn't touch a thing. Both were G29's.

Haiden
11-04-2016, 11:24
The wheel is the forza gt wheel so not sure if that makes a difference but I wouldn't have thought so.

And what does BrF do as can't find any explanation anywhere for it

Thanks

BrF is basically the @wheel setting for brake sensitivity. Like Grimey said, it increases/decreases brake force, but it probably does it a bit differently than the in-game sensitivity setting, which manipulates the force on a curve. Not sure if BrF works when the pedals are plugged in directly via USB. I think they have to be running through the wheel. Not a problem if you're on console, since that's the only way.

BigDad
11-04-2016, 13:40
I know 2 people that have had they wheels broke from dirt. They both said the same thing that the wheel now moves north and south (up&down). One said he had it turned up all the way, the guy said he didn't touch a thing. Both were G29's.
Wow , I'm feeling that my wheel is under so much less load on Dirt than pCars . My fan doesn't even kick in . One reason i guess is that a race is only 5 minutes in Dirt and an hour odd in pCars .
But still the forces going through the wheel feels alot less with Dirt .

poirqc
12-04-2016, 02:04
I'll just chime in to say thanks guys!

It took a while, but i found my unicorn! :D

It's amazing to trow a road car almost sideways, in a high speed curve and feel the tire twist gently. Being able to hammer it out of a curve, while feeling the edge of wieght/grip is awesome!

It's a shame i can't race with you guys.

gotdirt410sprintcar
12-04-2016, 02:38
G29's. say's it all when your going to buy a wheel that g29 for 350.00 when it came out was never worth looking at when you could of bought a t300 for 100 more. Those gears and not running FFB right you cant run a wheel like that or you will kill it quick just like you said two are dead all ready

inthebagbud
12-04-2016, 04:14
BrF is basically the @wheel setting for brake sensitivity. Like Grimey said, it increases/decreases brake force, but it probably does it a bit differently than the in-game sensitivity setting, which manipulates the force on a curve. Not sure if BrF works when the pedals are plugged in directly via USB. I think they have to be running through the wheel. Not a problem if you're on console, since that's the only way.

Is it actually a sensitivity setting as all it seems to affect is the brake rumble from the pedals ?

Also it is strange how the ffb feel,between ps4 and Xbox is different, as I have to run ffb in game at 50 or below wth the wheel at 100 and car masters at js settings or lower as any higher and I wouldn't be able to turn the wheel due to the weight feeling. After a couple of hours use my wrists are aching so much ... wierd as with the tx I thought I had it strong with js settings x 2

oege
12-04-2016, 07:16
@GrimeyDog

Which settings should one take for the T500? Does anybody have good settings?

GrimeyDog
12-04-2016, 11:14
@GrimeyDog

Which settings should one take for the T500? Does anybody have good settings?

Try the PDF settings on the first page but you have to set the Game Master FFB settinh according to your wheel... Then post again i will help you adjust themnfor your wheel.

GrimeyDog
12-04-2016, 11:16
I'll just chime in to say thanks guys!

It took a while, but i found my unicorn! :D

It's amazing to trow a road car almost sideways, in a high speed curve and feel the tire twist gently. Being able to hammer it out of a curve, while feeling the edge of wieght/grip is awesome!

It's a shame i can't race with you guys.

Can you post your settings... I would luv to Have a Look at them and Try them with PS4. Thnk for all your Help and support on the Thread.

oege
12-04-2016, 11:18
you have to set the Game Master FFB settinh according to your wheel

And what would be a good initial value for the T500?

GrimeyDog
12-04-2016, 11:32
And what would be a good initial value for the T500?

TM GM FFB I think the Default Value is 75.... Start there and test + or - the GM FFB until the wheel weight feels Right for you... i suggetsbTesting on Watkins Glen Short because its a bumpy track so you can adjust the FFB strength and wheel weight to your liking.

GM FFB = Final at the Wheel weight (this is added after Global settings + or - until wheel weight is right for you)

In Car Masters = Strength of FFB Effects... Bumps, Curbs, Weight Tranfer etc.

No Need to worry about in Game FFB Clipping from the Global Settings the in Car Masters Can be adjusted + or - per Car until feel is right for you.

oege
12-04-2016, 11:38
TM GM FFB I think the Default Value is 75
These are the values of the T300 for T500 it is 48 . I will test it. Thanks :)

Haiden
12-04-2016, 11:40
Is it actually a sensitivity setting as all it seems to affect is the brake rumble from the pedals ?

Also it is strange how the ffb feel,between ps4 and Xbox is different, as I have to run ffb in game at 50 or below wth the wheel at 100 and car masters at js settings or lower as any higher and I wouldn't be able to turn the wheel due to the weight feeling. After a couple of hours use my wrists are aching so much ... wierd as with the tx I thought I had it strong with js settings x 2

When I first got my pedals, I wasn't used to the load cell. I lowered it to 40 and it seemed to make a difference in terms of pressure. Might have been a placebo. I didn't really notice any difference in the rumble.

Edit: I was curious and remembered there was a manual. :)

Change the value for ‘BRF’ according to your favourite setting within the range 030 to 100:
- Value 100 is original setting, no scaling of brake signal resistance
- Value 030 is scaling the brake signal resistance by factor 3 (default value)

GrimeyDog
12-04-2016, 11:42
Ok Start there and if the wheel feels Heavy then Reduce GM FFB.... It should feel Good My Global Settings are Very Neutral.... i set in Car Masters to 100 but they can Even be set to 200 with No Clipping while Still Maintaning Strong FFB Forces feel.

GrimeyDog
12-04-2016, 13:39
Is it actually a sensitivity setting as all it seems to affect is the brake rumble from the pedals ?

Also it is strange how the ffb feel,between ps4 and Xbox is different, as I have to run ffb in game at 50 or below wth the wheel at 100 and car masters at js settings or lower as any higher and I wouldn't be able to turn the wheel due to the weight feeling. After a couple of hours use my wrists are aching so much ... wierd as with the tx I thought I had it strong with js settings x 2

The XB1 FFB is Much Much Stronger than the PS4 and P.C FFB!!! XB1 is Supposed to be using a New FFB protocol... if its Supposed to be New and improved it doesn't Feel like it...Doesn't feel better at all... JMO... it was just a ploy to make people have to buy New Wheels... That just ='s more $$$ for Greedy M$!!!

inthebagbud
12-04-2016, 14:47
When I first got my pedals, I wasn't used to the load cell. I lowered it to 40 and it seemed to make a difference in terms of pressure. Might have been a placebo. I didn't really notice any difference in the rumble.

Edit: I was curious and remembered there was a manual. :)

Change the value for ‘BRF’ according to your favourite setting within the range 030 to 100:
- Value 100 is original setting, no scaling of brake signal resistance
- Value 030 is scaling the brake signal resistance by factor 3 (default value)


The use of the phrase scaling is confusing me do they actually mean reduction

GrimeyDog
12-04-2016, 15:37
The use of the phrase scaling is confusing me do they actually mean reduction

BrF 100 = Quick Brackng Response.
BrF Lower than 100 Slows down Brake pedal Response so you Need to apply more Pressure to get to 100% Brake force.

I keep My BrF at 100 and use No assist and i dont have a problem with Locking up the Brakes... My advise is Unless you are Having a problem with Locking up your Brakes just set it to 100 and learn to be light with your Braking inputs...(That works best for Me).... But if you want to Reduce it then just Drive your favorite Car/Track and Reduce and Test until the Braking Feel is Right for you. Just Set it and forget it... once you get used to applying a certain Brake pressure with Muscle Memory you will Never touch that setting again even if you switch games.

BrF will affect Brake Rumble because the Rumble is activated once you reach the % that you have ABS set to kick in at... Ex 60 =60% Brake PSI... so turning BrF down will Delay the ABS Rumble because you Need to press the pedal Harder to apply 60% Brake pressure.

pavano
12-04-2016, 16:12
BrF 100 = Quick Brackng Response.
BrF Lower than 100 Slows down Brake pedal Response so you Need to apply more Pressure to get to 100% Brake force.

I keep My BrF at 100 and use No assist and i dont have a problem with Locking up the Brakes... My advise is Unless you are Having a problem with Locking up your Brakes just set it to 100 and learn to be light with your Braking inputs...(That works best for Me).... But if you want to Reduce it then just Drive your favorite Car/Track and Reduce and Test until the Braking Feel is Right for you. Just Set it and forget it... once you get used to applying a certain Brake pressure with Muscle Memory you will Never touch that setting again even if you switch games.

BrF will affect Brake Rumble because the Rumble is activated once you reach the % that you have ABS set to kick in at... Ex 60 =60% Brake PSI... so turning BrF down will Delay the ABS Rumble because you Need to press the pedal Harder to apply 60% Brake pressure.

so, the ABS setting from 0-100 is actually brake pressure threshold?
At what point I want to feel it?

Haiden
12-04-2016, 16:31
The use of the phrase scaling is confusing me do they actually mean reduction

It means a reduction in the pressure signal being sent to the game, which equates to a reduction in braking force. By default it's set to 50. I think that's because if you're not used to a load cell, 100 can be a little much. Also, how high you set it depends on other things, like how stiff you've set the cylinder, whether or not you're using a damper mod, whether you race with socks or shoes, and the position of your pedals. The more angled your pedals arms (angled toward to the seat), the easier it is to apply force with your foot. The lower the angle, the further your foot has to extend, which means you have to press harder--which, in that case, higher sensitivity would be a benefit. It also depends on how much throw you prefer in your pedals. Some people are okay with a small range of motion. Others prefer more movement. Basically, there is no right or wrong. The setting is there to provide more flexibility, with regards to personalizing your rig. Try it different ways, and go with whatever feels best to you and enables consistent braking.


so, die ABS setting from 0-100 is actually brake pressure threshold?
At what point I want to feel it?

The @wheel ABS setting is just when the rumble kicks in. Set to 100, it kicks in when your pedal input sends a 100% pressure signal to the game. At 90, it will rumble when your input sends 90% pressure. And so on.

GrimeyDog
12-04-2016, 18:47
so, the ABS setting from 0-100 is actually brake pressure threshold?
At what point I want to feel it?

Yes that sets the point at which the brake pedal rumble kicks in Only:victorious:

morpwr
12-04-2016, 21:29
I'll just chime in to say thanks guys!

It took a while, but i found my unicorn! :D

It's amazing to trow a road car almost sideways, in a high speed curve and feel the tire twist gently. Being able to hammer it out of a curve, while feeling the edge of wieght/grip is awesome!

It's a shame i can't race with you guys.

Yeah when you finally get the settings right sms did an amazing job with the ffb. I'm having the same problem with pcars as I did when gt came out. Everything else seems so wrong I don't want to play them.

poirqc
12-04-2016, 21:40
Yeah when you finally get the settings right sms did an amazing job with the ffb. I'm having the same problem with pcars as I did when gt came out. Everything else seems so wrong I don't want to play them.

When there's less people online, setting up a quick race, with AI set accordingly, starting from the back of the grid, can make awesome races. Set it to 30mins, boom. Goodness.

morpwr
12-04-2016, 21:49
When there's less people online, setting up a quick race, with AI set accordingly, starting from the back of the grid, can make awesome races. Set it to 30mins, boom. Goodness.

Actually I really enjoy the ai in this game if you can get through the first corner without getting run over. :rolleyes If the ai was just a little more aware sms would have had some really really good ai in this game.

Haiden
12-04-2016, 21:54
Yeah when you finally get the settings right sms did an amazing job with the ffb. I'm having the same problem with pcars as I did when gt came out. Everything else seems so wrong I don't want to play them.

It's been a long time since I've played any other racers. I have Forza 6 and F1 2015. Can't remember the last time I played Forza, and it's been over a month since I played F1. Interested to see how Assetto Corsa and GT7 fit into my mix.



Actually I really enjoy the ai in this game if you can get through the first corner without getting run over. :rolleyes If the ai was just a little more aware sms would have had some really really good ai in this game.

Same here. The corner cutting is the only real gripe I have. I've had a lot of good races with the AI.

morpwr
13-04-2016, 01:11
It's been a long time since I've played any other racers. I have Forza 6 and F1 2015. Can't remember the last time I played Forza, and it's been over a month since I played F1. Interested to see how Assetto Corsa and GT7 fit into my mix.

I'm really looking forward to both of those also. I'm hoping for some more sim biased titles to play. That and pcars 2. If pcars was this good and pcars 2 is supposed to improve on this it should be truly amazing.


Same here. The corner cutting is the only real gripe I have. I've had a lot of good races with the AI.

Nothing like getting run over on the left right at Silverstone! I just stopped even attempting to be anywhere near the ai there. I'm really starting to enjoy the open wheel cars but the starts are brutal and they act like you aren't even there if you get inside of them most of the time. You really have to choose inside passes carefully but it has helped me learn to be more patient so guess its not all bad.

gotdirt410sprintcar
13-04-2016, 02:34
These are the values of the T300 for T500 it is 48 . I will test it. Thanks :)

I run 100 TF SAME RA'S as grimey other than clamp is around 80 to 85 no clipper scoops I was playing with that this past weekend not sure about that at the moment deadzone you will have to find that for your wheel to.

master 50

10

52

106

52

sop scale 50

lateral 10 on some or none

diff 60

but if your going to use jack spade in car settings you can your call. I think I need to use the baseline thread and really find my deadzone and scoops I was playing with both to get it dialed in I think my deadzone now is 0.12 falloff five clicks scoops knee 30 reduction 50

Haiden
13-04-2016, 03:33
Nothing like getting run over on the left right at Silverstone! I just stopped even attempting to be anywhere near the ai there. I'm really starting to enjoy the open wheel cars but the starts are brutal and they act like you aren't even there if you get inside of them most of the time. You really have to choose inside passes carefully but it has helped me learn to be more patient so guess its not all bad.

Sometimes I have to restart a couple times when racing open wheel on certain tracks. Others, it's not much of a problem. Inside passes are tricky. You really have to be about a half length alongside the AI before the start of the braking zone. Otherwise, they fully commit to the prime line and turn into you. If you're there before the braking zone, they can adapt and allow you some space, well... at least most of the time. :)

GrimeyDog
13-04-2016, 11:04
I run 100 TF SAME RA'S as grimey other than clamp is around 80 to 85 no clipper scoops I was playing with that this past weekend not sure about that at the moment deadzone you will have to find that for your wheel to.

master 50

10

52

106

52

sop scale 50

lateral 10 on some or none

diff 60

but if your going to use jack spade in car settings you can your call. I think I need to use the baseline thread and really find my deadzone and scoops I was playing with both to get it dialed in I think my deadzone now is 0.12 falloff five clicks scoops knee 30 reduction 50

Yuo i Started playing with Higher Scoop Reduction #'s also....the Higher Scoop Reduction makes the wheel center a tad bit lighter but is bringing out better Feel in the wheel center:yes: .... I lowered Scoop Knee a Tad bit but Have Not seen huge improvements from that... Im working on fine tuning My Final Scoop # settings... Should have them before the weekend.

also the Higher Scoop Reduction #'s seem to give better subtle Tire feel on Smooth tracks...#progress:yes: at this point i am Not making any Major changes its more about Fine Tuning.

morpwr
13-04-2016, 11:18
Sometimes I have to restart a couple times when racing open wheel on certain tracks. Others, it's not much of a problem. Inside passes are tricky. You really have to be about a half length alongside the AI before the start of the braking zone. Otherwise, they fully commit to the prime line and turn into you. If you're there before the braking zone, they can adapt and allow you some space, well... at least most of the time. :)

I thought it was just me but apparently not.lol My other favorite is when the ai decide to almost stop in the middle of a corner you want to go fast in. Which makes it really hard to set up a pass coming off a corner. But other than some quirks the ai isn't too bad all things considered.

morpwr
13-04-2016, 11:25
Yuo i Started playing with Higher Scoop Reduction #'s also....the Higher Scoop Reduction makes the wheel center a tad bit lighter but is bringing out better Feel in the wheel center:yes: .... I lowered Scoop Knee a Tad bit but Have Not seen huge improvements from that... Im working on fine tuning My Final Scoop # settings... Should have them before the weekend.

also the Higher Scoop Reduction #'s seem to give better subtle Tire feel on Smooth tracks...#progress:yes: at this point i am Not making any Major changes its more about Fine Tuning.

Scoop knee on the t300 at least made a big difference while the sr was more tunable to taste. Sr just raised or lowerd how strong the lower forces are. The knee seemed to make you miss some of the forces when set too high. There definitely seems to be a sweet spot with that one if you have the sr in the ballpark. Luckily unless sms makes some radical change I'm not touching anything and haven't looked at the ffb screens in weeks.:D

inthebagbud
13-04-2016, 12:48
Thanks guys for the Fanatec answers which helped and must say I found my FFB a dam sight quicker than when I started the game back in May, so all that messing did pay off!

The only thing that threw me was having FFB on wheel and in game and settled for 100% in game and 30-40 on wheel

Settings have been posted to the FFB site, but are not showing just yet http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse/xbox-4 if any xboxers are reading this thread

I even actually like the in car default now - figure that one out :D

inthebagbud
13-04-2016, 12:50
Yuo i Started playing with Higher Scoop Reduction #'s also....the Higher Scoop Reduction makes the wheel center a tad bit lighter but is bringing out better Feel in the wheel center:yes: .... I lowered Scoop Knee a Tad bit but Have Not seen huge improvements from that... Im working on fine tuning My Final Scoop # settings... Should have them before the weekend.

also the Higher Scoop Reduction #'s seem to give better subtle Tire feel on Smooth tracks...#progress:yes: at this point i am Not making any Major changes its more about Fine Tuning.

Stop chasing as the rewards will be so small and the merry go round will never stop

I actually run without SK/SR which I prefer now and use your RA settings :yes:

GrimeyDog
13-04-2016, 13:09
Stop chasing as the rewards will be so small and the merry go round will never stop

I actually run without SK/SR which I prefer now and use your RA settings :yes:

No More Chasing for Me...just a bit of fine tuning... Thats what i do when i get Board... LOL... itbwas suggested that i try reversing the Scoop Settings i got board tried it and i liked the finer road feel Higher Scoop Reduction put into the center of the wheel... LOL... Next test will be to try your Idea My Relative with No Scoops:yes: LOL.. its just the Geek in Me:cool:

I Have Good Feel but i Need it Dialed in and Fine Tuned before Assetto Corsa comes out...If AC feels on Console like it doe's on P.C then... Hmmmm:confused:

Haiden
13-04-2016, 14:57
I thought it was just me but apparently not.lol My other favorite is when the ai decide to almost stop in the middle of a corner you want to go fast in. Which makes it really hard to set up a pass coming off a corner. But other than some quirks the ai isn't too bad all things considered.

Nope. It's not just you. I agree, though... They're small quirks that don't really bother me. There's a spot on the Nordschleife (an s-type curve, at the end of sector 2 or start of 3), where the AI, just slows down going into the first curve. I understand why--it's a downhill approach, and you could easily lose traction going into it too fast with a default setup. But if you've adjusted your suspension, you can take it almost flat out. The track is too narrow to pass or run wheel to wheel through there, so I have to always remember to back off when I'm racing the AI, but then also not make a habit out of it, because when racing online, your opponents aren't going to slow down like the AI.


Stop chasing as the rewards will be so small and the merry go round will never stop

I actually run without SK/SR which I prefer now and use your RA settings :yes:

I agree. At this point, with as much tuning as we've all done, I don't see how there could be anymore left to squeeze out of the FFB. Any changes we make now, are just preference-oriented. Any real gains made will most likely be marginal, and will probably come at the expense of something else in the chain. When dealing with a fixed platform, there's no such thing as perpetual improvement. Unless the platform changes (which in this case would be SMS changing the feedback or tire model), you will always reach a limit, and/or a point of diminishing returns. IMO, once you've got the FFB feeling the way you like, just stop messing with it and settle into the tune you have. If you've got a decent feel with good range, allowing yourself to settle into it will make you faster than any minor adjustment you could possibly make. I used to try new things/ideas when I read about them--mostly because I was trying to learn what everything did--but I'm at the point now where, one, I feel I understand the system; two, I love my current FFB; and three, I just don't care if there's another way, because my current settings have great dynamic range and give me all the feedback I need. I've spent the past six months tuning the FFB every which way from Sunday. How much better could it possibly be than what I have now? :) I've had more fun with PCars in the past month, than I've had since I bought the game--great races online and offline. It's also become easier for me to switch between cars and classes. IMO, that's because I've allowed myself to settle into the feel.

Assetto Corsa comes out soon, and hopefully GT7 will follow. Until then, I want to fully enjoy the PCars race experience, not the pain and soul crushing frustration of backing in an out of menus chasing small gains.

Jezza819
14-04-2016, 19:42
Grimey, I've been using your template for a long time now with great results on just about everything. I was using the version that had Master Scale 100, FX 2, FY 30, FZ 100, MZ 100 but after these last couple of patches some cars started feeling too soft and sliding around a little too much for me. Since I had not looked at this thread for sometime I looked a couple of nights ago and noticed you had updated your settings.

I started plugging the new numbers in on a few cars and I've noticed that bumps are less noticeable and some cars require more steering effort to get them to turn at all. This might be the lighter feeling at center I think you've talked about. But I noticed today on the first post in this thread that you say it might be better to leave race cars MZ at 100 and street cars at 60. Just for comparisons sake last night I drove Sakitto first in the Aston Martin GT3 on these new settings and it was almost like driving on the highway. Steering effort was acceptable, grip was sort of acceptable. I couldn't get it to stick very well on that high speed left then right going down the main straight.

Then I turned around and drove the Corvette that still had the 2, 30, 100, 100, numbers on it and it was a lot tighter. ALL of Sakitto's bumps were present and it stuck very well on that high speed last complex.

My first question is is that MZ number the key to getting a better what I call "bite" from a race car? By "bite" I mean when you turn the wheel you can almost feel instantaneous response fed into the tire and in turn it makes the car turn in quicker as opposed to turning the wheel and getting a lot of push or understeer like all of the sudden the steering ratio jumped from 8:4.1 to say 28:4.1.

Second, I can't get the Falcon V8 Supercar to behave like it did when we first got it. Neither set of numbers works on it. Would raising that MZ number up over 100 be worth a shot to get that car from understeering so bad and feeling so light? Right now it's like driving a Lincoln Town Car instead of a race car. If that works then I'll have a good idea of what to do whenever I think cars are feeling too light and wallowy.

Thanks for working out this whole system.

GrimeyDog
14-04-2016, 22:35
Grimey, I've been using your template for a long time now with great results on just about everything. I was using the version that had Master Scale 100, FX 2, FY 30, FZ 100, MZ 100 but after these last couple of patches some cars started feeling too soft and sliding around a little too much for me. Since I had not looked at this thread for sometime I looked a couple of nights ago and noticed you had updated your settings.

I started plugging the new numbers in on a few cars and I've noticed that bumps are less noticeable and some cars require more steering effort to get them to turn at all. This might be the lighter feeling at center I think you've talked about. But I noticed today on the first post in this thread that you say it might be better to leave race cars MZ at 100 and street cars at 60. Just for comparisons sake last night I drove Sakitto first in the Aston Martin GT3 on these new settings and it was almost like driving on the highway. Steering effort was acceptable, grip was sort of acceptable. I couldn't get it to stick very well on that high speed left then right going down the main straight.

Then I turned around and drove the Corvette that still had the 2, 30, 100, 100, numbers on it and it was a lot tighter. ALL of Sakitto's bumps were present and it stuck very well on that high speed last complex.

My first question is is that MZ number the key to getting a better what I call "bite" from a race car? By "bite" I mean when you turn the wheel you can almost feel instantaneous response fed into the tire and in turn it makes the car turn in quicker as opposed to turning the wheel and getting a lot of push or understeer like all of the sudden the steering ratio jumped from 8:4.1 to say 28:4.1.

Second, I can't get the Falcon V8 Supercar to behave like it did when we first got it. Neither set of numbers works on it. Would raising that MZ number up over 100 be worth a shot to get that car from understeering so bad and feeling so light? Right now it's like driving a Lincoln Town Car instead of a race car. If that works then I'll have a good idea of what to do whenever I think cars are feeling too light and wallowy.

Thanks for working out this whole system.




04/14/2016 -----> 10.0 PDF update RAC_75 ... Updated Scoop settings for better Road/Cornering feelhttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/tickyes.png



***Formula cars can Now be driven as is with No Special FFB Tweek adjustments because of the New Scoop settings and have 0% Oscillation other than road feelhttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/tickyes.pnghttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/tickyes.pnghttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/tickyes.pnghttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/cool.png***



Tweek will work on other wheels and Xbox 1 but you will have to set game master FFB according Wheel and system used!!!
PS4 and Xbox 1 the GM FFB is different.



RAC is set to compensate for the fact GM FFB No longer adjust at the wheel FFB strength for Fanatec wheels.


***This Lower RAC setting works Well for All Wheels and also Lowers the chances of in game FFB Clipping***

***The in car masters can be adjusted per car to get desired FFB strength per car***
***I have set the in car masters to 200 and No Clipping!!! Adjust masters per car as needed***




Changed Scoop settings to Give better Road / Cornering feel with lighter wheel weight... Much better balance between Power and Fidelity:cool:





When I noticed that the formula cars drive as is with no extra tweeking...Yup i knew i did something right and it was time for a PDF update:yes::yes::yes:


Try these new settings as is Especially the Global settings... They should feel much better... its a better balance between Power and Fidelity...you can use the in Car Masters to adjust the car FFB Strength to your taste... Let Me know how these New settings work for you.

Also i recommend pushing the reset button before entering the new global settings... that way you have less chance of the New settings not saving right.

GrimeyDog
15-04-2016, 11:42
From My Recent testing what i have figured out is that Scoop Reduction being set below 24 seems to be the Reason that the Formula A cars have such Massive Oscillation in the steering wheel.
With My 8.0 settings i used 14 scoop reduction and could Not remove it, then 9.0 i used 19 Oscillation was there but Less... with the New settings and Scoop Reduction 24 the Oscillation is Gone... yes the wheel can be Snappy but only according to Road Surface No Oscillation that trys to Rip the wheel from your Hands:yes:... I always thought Scoop Reduction when set too High would Reduce Subtle Road Feel.... This was Wrong... It seems with 24 Scoop reduction i get More Road Feel in All Cars... Hmmm just when you think your done the Pcars FFB Paradox it pulls you back in!!! Im done with Major tweeking but i will investigate More the way Scoop settings work.... Since it was suggested that i try Reversing the Scoop settings and tried it The FFB feel is Much better with No Spongy or Spring like feel in wheel center... Reversing the Scoops #'s didn't work for Me but Running a Higher Scoop Reduction was definitly a step in the Right Direction... as it is Now the FFB is 99.95% right for Me in every car.

Roger Prynne
15-04-2016, 13:23
From My Recent testing what i have figured out is that Scoop Reduction being set below 24 seems to be the Reason that the Formula A cars have such Massive Oscillation in the steering wheel.
With My 8.0 settings i used 14 scoop reduction and could Not remove it, then 9.0 i used 19 Oscillation was there but Less... with the New settings and Scoop Reduction 24 the Oscillation is Gone... yes the wheel can be Snappy but only according to Road Surface No Oscillation that trys to Rip the wheel from your Hands:yes:... I always thought Scoop Reduction when set too High would Reduce Subtle Road Feel.... This was Wrong... It seems with 24 Scoop reduction i get More Road Feel in All Cars... Hmmm just when you think your done the Pcars FFB Paradox it pulls you back in!!! Im done with Major tweeking but i will investigate More the way Scoop settings work.... Since it was suggested that i try Reversing the Scoop settings and tried it The FFB feel is Much better with No Spongy or Spring like feel in wheel center... Reversing the Scoops #'s didn't work for Me but Running a Higher Scoop Reduction was definitly a step in the Right Direction... as it is Now the FFB is 99.95% right for Me in every car.

How many times have you said that ;)

GrimeyDog
15-04-2016, 13:55
How many times have you said that ;)

LOL... at least once per update;)...its Not My fault... its the Geek in Me:p... SMS keeps updating making Pcars FFB better and i keep learning New ways to Maximze it ;)

Hey I tweek mostly when i get board... It Keeps Me out of Trouble:yes: Staying Home Tweeking Saves Me alot of $$$:cool: .... True story... Yup im Done Tweeking......Well for Now with 10.0 at least:cool: LOL.... Nope Not even Now im More cuiouse than Ever about how Scoops Really work:confused: Hmmm... just the Geek in Me :yes: .... But the FFB is Better than Ever so im Really Happy with it.:cool:

Jezza819
15-04-2016, 14:26
From My Recent testing what i have figured out is that Scoop Reduction being set below 24 seems to be the Reason that the Formula A cars have such Massive Oscillation in the steering wheel.
With My 8.0 settings i used 14 scoop reduction and could Not remove it, then 9.0 i used 19 Oscillation was there but Less... with the New settings and Scoop Reduction 24 the Oscillation is Gone... yes the wheel can be Snappy but only according to Road Surface No Oscillation that trys to Rip the wheel from your Hands:yes:... I always thought Scoop Reduction when set too High would Reduce Subtle Road Feel.... This was Wrong... It seems with 24 Scoop reduction i get More Road Feel in All Cars... Hmmm just when you think your done the Pcars FFB Paradox it pulls you back in!!! Im done with Major tweeking but i will investigate More the way Scoop settings work.... Since it was suggested that i try Reversing the Scoop settings and tried it The FFB feel is Much better with No Spongy or Spring like feel in wheel center... Reversing the Scoops #'s didn't work for Me but Running a Higher Scoop Reduction was definitly a step in the Right Direction... as it is Now the FFB is 99.95% right for Me in every car.

Last night I got massive oscillation in Formula A. So much that I couldn't hold the wheel going down the front straight at Nurburgring GP. But I had put MZ at 30 since I think you said Formula A could be run as is. Once I backed that down to 10 as per your suggestion in the 9.0 settings, the oscillation went away again.

BigDad
15-04-2016, 14:27
04/14/2016 -----> 10.0 PDF update RAC_75 ... Updated Scoop settings for better Road/Cornering feelhttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/tickyes.png



***Formula cars can Now be driven as is with No Special FFB Tweek adjustments because of the New Scoop settings and have 0% Oscillation other than road feelhttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/tickyes.pnghttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/tickyes.pnghttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/tickyes.pnghttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/cool.png***



Tweek will work on other wheels and Xbox 1 but you will have to set game master FFB according Wheel and system used!!!
PS4 and Xbox 1 the GM FFB is different.



RAC is set to compensate for the fact GM FFB No longer adjust at the wheel FFB strength for Fanatec wheels.


***This Lower RAC setting works Well for All Wheels and also Lowers the chances of in game FFB Clipping***

***The in car masters can be adjusted per car to get desired FFB strength per car***
***I have set the in car masters to 200 and No Clipping!!! Adjust masters per car as needed***




Changed Scoop settings to Give better Road / Cornering feel with lighter wheel weight... Much better balance between Power and Fidelity:cool:





When I noticed that the formula cars drive as is with no extra tweeking...Yup i knew i did something right and it was time for a PDF update:yes::yes::yes:


Try these new settings as is Especially the Global settings... They should feel much better... its a better balance between Power and Fidelity...you can use the in Car Masters to adjust the car FFB Strength to your taste... Let Me know how these New settings work for you.

Also i recommend pushing the reset button before entering the new global settings... that way you have less chance of the New settings not saving right.


The bigger and more colourful the more important , right ?lol

GrimeyDog
15-04-2016, 14:55
Last night I got massive oscillation in Formula A. So much that I couldn't hold the wheel going down the front straight at Nurburgring GP. But I had put MZ at 30 since I think you said Formula A could be run as is. Once I backed that down to 10 as per your suggestion in the 9.0 settings, the oscillation went away again.

Xb1 FFB is Stronger than PS4 so yes you may have to adjust the Mz in Formula A... PS4 for Me with Formula A cars the Oscillation seems more like subtle Road Feel at 30 but that is also dependent on How much Feel you like in wheel center... Also you can increase Arm angle by 1000 or even to the Max 4500 to further smoothen the wheel center.

How did the settings feel for you with other cars?

Question... What is your XB1 Game Master FFB set at???
im going to test XB1 over the weekend and dont feel like fishing for the XB1 FFB sweet spot again... PS4 and XB1 GM FFB will be different because XB1 is Stronger and also has the Auto FFB feature.

GrimeyDog
15-04-2016, 15:00
The bigger and more colourful the more important , right ?lol

LOL...I guess... just wanted to Note and Seperate certain parts so the info was specific to the setting talked about... That was My wifes idea... LOL.

Just too Many settings and too Much info to Not seperate it some how:p

Alex_ONeill
15-04-2016, 15:03
It was good racing with you last night. Thank you for the information, I will try it out later!

GrimeyDog
15-04-2016, 15:09
It was good racing with you last night. Thank you for the information, I will try it out later!

It was Great fun!!! I will be on tonight also... No work tomorrow so im on All Night!!! LOL

GrimeyDog
15-04-2016, 16:12
The bigger and more colourful the more important , right ?lol

You should join us for some Races tonight 10pm Easter time USA... I will Show you what Good FFB does on the Track:cool:

Now i can get My Focus back on Racing Again...:D
Havent Really Focused in on pure Racing since 6.0 which was the best update IMO... I Really Liked that Tire Model and how it showed the Tires Red Hot on Screen and you could feel tbe Tire Grip Change also the Hotter they got.

Tire Model Now Seems to be Hot Lap Tire Model... I can abuse the Tires with little to No Lap Time Lossed.

gotdirt410sprintcar
15-04-2016, 17:29
I really don't get what your saying grimey the tires are the best imo and you do get where they slow down lose grip. 5 lap 10 lap runs tell you nothing do a three hour race everything is FINE with the tires

Jezza819
15-04-2016, 17:35
Xb1 FFB is Stronger than PS4 so yes you may have to adjust the Mz in Formula A... PS4 for Me with Formula A cars the Oscillation seems more like subtle Road Feel at 30 but that is also dependent on How much Feel you like in wheel center... Also you can increase Arm angle by 1000 or even to the Max 4500 to further smoothen the wheel center.

How did the settings feel for you with other cars?

Question... What is your XB1 Game Master FFB set at???
im going to test XB1 over the weekend and dont feel like fishing for the XB1 FFB sweet spot again... PS4 and XB1 GM FFB will be different because XB1 is Stronger and also has the Auto FFB feature.

I thought that might be the case of a PS4 vs. XB1 thing when it reacted so violently.

I first tried the 10.0 settings as is on the Aston GTE and it felt wonderful. Just the right amount of curb feel, great turning ability vs. steering wheel effort required. I think I tried the V8 Supercar as is and only noticed little improvement if any from 9.0 but I never went back and tweaked it anymore. Then did the Formula A stuff. Next I drove the BMW touring car, the older one that's in the same class as the Mercedes 190. It felt sort of loose and soft and didn't act like it wanted to turn very well so I went in and ran MZ up to 100 and that sharpened it up to more what an older touring car should feel like or at least what I think they might feel like. I know it's not going to be as tight as a modern DTM car. The last thing I tried was the Marek LMP2. This time I didn't even try with the as is 10.0 numbers. I went straight in and put MZ at 60 and blistered Sakitto with it. No problems anywhere. It might be fine with MZ at 30 but I think I'll leave it where it is.

I've been trying to test across the classes when we change these numbers. I hardly ever run street cars. I need to get back in the areas where I had the most trouble, older race cars like the Ford IV GT40 and some of the older open wheel cars. I should have plenty of time this weekend to do that.

Right now my Game Master FFB is set at 50 and Tire Force is also at 50.

GrimeyDog
15-04-2016, 19:01
I really don't get what your saying grimey the tires are the best imo and you do get where they slow down lose grip. 5 lap 10 lap runs tell you nothing do a three hour race everything is FINE with the tires

I didn't say the 10.0 tire Model was bad... I said i like 6.0 Tire model more;)... Ive done some 40, 50min races and most of the time i can get through on 1 set of tires without the tires Turning Red:indecisiveness:

GrimeyDog
15-04-2016, 19:19
I thought that might be the case of a PS4 vs. XB1 thing when it reacted so violently.

I first tried the 10.0 settings as is on the Aston GTE and it felt wonderful. Just the right amount of curb feel, great turning ability vs. steering wheel effort required. I think I tried the V8 Supercar as is and only noticed little improvement if any from 9.0 but I never went back and tweaked it anymore. Then did the Formula A stuff. Next I drove the BMW touring car, the older one that's in the same class as the Mercedes 190. It felt sort of loose and soft and didn't act like it wanted to turn very well so I went in and ran MZ up to 100 and that sharpened it up to more what an older touring car should feel like or at least what I think they might feel like. I know it's not going to be as tight as a modern DTM car. The last thing I tried was the Marek LMP2. This time I didn't even try with the as is 10.0 numbers. I went straight in and put MZ at 60 and blistered Sakitto with it. No problems anywhere. It might be fine with MZ at 30 but I think I'll leave it where it is.

I've been trying to test across the classes when we change these numbers. I hardly ever run street cars. I need to get back in the areas where I had the most trouble, older race cars like the Ford IV GT40 and some of the older open wheel cars. I should have plenty of time this weekend to do that.

Right now my Game Master FFB is set at 50 and Tire Force is also at 50.

Nice!!! that's the way to do it...You have to make certain changes to best match your individual Idea of what the car should feel like...The Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz & SoP in the PDF are set the way i best like them ... set them the way that best fits you:yes: once you have your Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz & SoP set to your taste then + or - with the in car masters to fine tune FFB strength to your desired level per car and Go Go Go:yes: I have set the masters to 200 and no clipping but i have not yet Found a car that needs the masters that high but as tested with RAC 75 it can be done:yes: Thanks for the feed back.... keep me updated on your Cars tested or any problems you may find with the FFB thnx.

BigDad
15-04-2016, 21:56
You should join us for some Races tonight 10pm Easter time USA... I will Show you what Good FFB does on the Track:cool:

Now i can get My Focus back on Racing Again...:D
Havent Really Focused in on pure Racing since 6.0 which was the best update IMO... I Really Liked that Tire Model and how it showed the Tires Red Hot on Screen and you could feel tbe Tire Grip Change also the Hotter they got.

Tire Model Now Seems to be Hot Lap Tire Model... I can abuse the Tires with little to No Lap Time Lossed.

Thanks Mate, but I'm playing Dirt at the moment. Haven't touched Pcars since its release. Dirt might keep me going till AC. I'll put Pcars back in when the next DLC comes though. Love the combined Nords and will do many laps there. It's just taking to long to arrive. 6th may apparently.

inthebagbud
15-04-2016, 22:08
Jezza819 finally a xbox user with a fanatec. I am a new user of fanatec and am curious about xbox settings as the ps4 settings do not usually carry over to the xbox. I am always interested in the diverse views on ffb and notice that If I am right your settings are 50/50 in game ffb and TF ?

Do you then use GrimeyDog settings?

I use in game ffb at 100 and TF 100 so I am curious what your ffb on wheel is

GrimeyDog
15-04-2016, 23:01
Grimey, I've been using your template for a long time now with great results on just about everything. I was using the version that had Master Scale 100, FX 2, FY 30, FZ 100, MZ 100 but after these last couple of patches some cars started feeling too soft and sliding around a little too much for me. Since I had not looked at this thread for sometime I looked a couple of nights ago and noticed you had updated your settings.

I started plugging the new numbers in on a few cars and I've noticed that bumps are less noticeable and some cars require more steering effort to get them to turn at all. This might be the lighter feeling at center I think you've talked about. But I noticed today on the first post in this thread that you say it might be better to leave race cars MZ at 100 and street cars at 60. Just for comparisons sake last night I drove Sakitto first in the Aston Martin GT3 on these new settings and it was almost like driving on the highway. Steering effort was acceptable, grip was sort of acceptable. I couldn't get it to stick very well on that high speed left then right going down the main straight.

Then I turned around and drove the Corvette that still had the 2, 30, 100, 100, numbers on it and it was a lot tighter. ALL of Sakitto's bumps were present and it stuck very well on that high speed last complex.

My first question is is that MZ number the key to getting a better what I call "bite" from a race car? By "bite" I mean when you turn the wheel you can almost feel instantaneous response fed into the tire and in turn it makes the car turn in quicker as opposed to turning the wheel and getting a lot of push or understeer like all of the sudden the steering ratio jumped from 8:4.1 to say 28:4.1.

Second, I can't get the Falcon V8 Supercar to behave like it did when we first got it. Neither set of numbers works on it. Would raising that MZ number up over 100 be worth a shot to get that car from understeering so bad and feeling so light? Right now it's like driving a Lincoln Town Car instead of a race car. If that works then I'll have a good idea of what to do whenever I think cars are feeling too light and wallowy.

Thanks for working out this whole system.


I thought that might be the case of a PS4 vs. XB1 thing when it reacted so violently.

I first tried the 10.0 settings as is on the Aston GTE and it felt wonderful. Just the right amount of curb feel, great turning ability vs. steering wheel effort required. I think I tried the V8 Supercar as is and only noticed little improvement if any from 9.0 but I never went back and tweaked it anymore. Then did the Formula A stuff. Next I drove the BMW touring car, the older one that's in the same class as the Mercedes 190. It felt sort of loose and soft and didn't act like it wanted to turn very well so I went in and ran MZ up to 100 and that sharpened it up to more what an older touring car should feel like or at least what I think they might feel like. I know it's not going to be as tight as a modern DTM car. The last thing I tried was the Marek LMP2. This time I didn't even try with the as is 10.0 numbers. I went straight in and put MZ at 60 and blistered Sakitto with it. No problems anywhere. It might be fine with MZ at 30 but I think I'll leave it where it is.

I've been trying to test across the classes when we change these numbers. I hardly ever run street cars. I need to get back in the areas where I had the most trouble, older race cars like the Ford IV GT40 and some of the older open wheel cars. I should have plenty of time this weekend to do that.

Right now my Game Master FFB is set at 50 and Tire Force is also at 50.


Jezza819 finally a xbox user with a fanatec. I am a new user of fanatec and am curious about xbox settings as the ps4 settings do not usually carry over to the xbox. I am always interested in the diverse views on ffb and notice that If I am right your settings are 50/50 in game ffb and TF ?

Do you then use GrimeyDog settings?

I use in game ffb at 100 and TF 100 so I am curious what your ffb on wheel is


I have Xbox 1 also and a universal hub for the V2 & XB1... I just like playing Pcars on PS4 more the graphics are a tad bit better... I do test the settings on XB1 also and Same settings for PS4 have been working well for Me on XB1 as confirmed by Jezza819 ... XB1 just requires a different GM FFB than PS4... I have not tested The XB1 with 10.0 yet i will do it this weekend.

Jezza819
16-04-2016, 19:11
Jezza819 finally a xbox user with a fanatec. I am a new user of fanatec and am curious about xbox settings as the ps4 settings do not usually carry over to the xbox. I am always interested in the diverse views on ffb and notice that If I am right your settings are 50/50 in game ffb and TF ?

Do you then use GrimeyDog settings?

I use in game ffb at 100 and TF 100 so I am curious what your ffb on wheel is

Yes both the FFB and TF are at 50 right now. I've never ran FFB at 100 to know what that feels like but I did put TF at 98 just briefly when Grimey put that number out there initially but to me that was SO stiff that I couldn't control the car. That might be another difference between PS4 and XB1. So I took that way down to about 30 or so which was too soft and then increased by 10 each time until I found what I liked. Sometime this weekend I might try FFB at 100 just to see what that feels like.

My biggest frustration is when it seems like the wheel is not turning the car. I've always ran steering ratios at no higher than 9:0.1 and for the most part that works for me but occasionally I will get in something that has trouble turning even on slow hairpins. I end up turning the wheel way past 90 degrees and still the car pushes or understeers away. I don't know what to increase or deecrease to try and fix that. Increasing MZ seems to help just a little. I think I've heard messing with Arm Angle might have something to do with it but I haven't adjusted that since I've been using Grimey's numbers.

inthebagbud
16-04-2016, 21:56
Not around the xbox for a few days but here is the link to my settings http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse/xbox-4/182

I am currently exploring grimeys settings as in some cars they are better than classic , but,the default 26, 100, 100, 100 is nit that bad either...... aargh it is so frustrating

Jezza not too sure what you mean about the turning thing, but I use a little calculation to turn ratio down on cars and will put up the link when I am back home

Haiden
17-04-2016, 13:57
My biggest frustration is when it seems like the wheel is not turning the car. I've always ran steering ratios at no higher than 9:0.1 and for the most part that works for me but occasionally I will get in something that has trouble turning even on slow hairpins. I end up turning the wheel way past 90 degrees and still the car pushes or understeers away. I don't know what to increase or deecrease to try and fix that. Increasing MZ seems to help just a little. I think I've heard messing with Arm Angle might have something to do with it but I haven't adjusted that since I've been using Grimey's numbers.

I'm curious... why are you trying to solve the understeer problem with the FFB? Have you tried making other mechanical adjustments--sway bars, springs, etc? The FFB will allow you to feel or not feel understeer, but it won't stop it from happening. The default mechanical setup on some cars is prone to understeer.

morpwr
18-04-2016, 01:22
I'm curious... why are you trying to solve the understeer problem with the FFB? Have you tried making other mechanical adjustments--sway bars, springs, etc? The FFB will allow you to feel or not feel understeer, but it won't stop it from happening. The default mechanical setup on some cars is prone to understeer.

I wonder if the tf turned down that far he is loosing the feel from the tires and needs to adjust wheel weight somewhere else.

inthebagbud
18-04-2016, 06:13
I wonder if the tf turned down that far he is loosing the feel from the tires and needs to adjust wheel weight somewhere else.

Running 50 tf and 50 ffb is going to be pretty light especially on the xbox

gotdirt410sprintcar
18-04-2016, 08:45
I think I might of figured out the body scale by default it is set at 50pounds. Say your car can pull three g's to four thats like 400 pounds set that to 400 or 500. Seems to work better I set it the same as the master sop scale's but you get a pull in the wheel and it seemed that one side of the wheel would be lighter than the other. Then I tried to match the g forces the car is pulling it got better.

I was in the m1 pro car and body stiffness I set at 60 damped60

GrimeyDog
18-04-2016, 10:18
I played with Body scale this weekend too... No Luck for Me... one side of the wheel was very light for Me also...Shrugggs.

Edit: I too set the Body scale same as SoP:confused:

PureMalt77
18-04-2016, 12:18
Hey GrimeyDog! Where were you yesterday? We were all waiting for your show-down with the RUF! :D
Only Linnuke raced your car. Most of the others, like me, all Z4 fans :cool:

GrimeyDog
18-04-2016, 13:12
I wish i could have Made it... The Wife Had Me All Day... Pre Aniversary celebration... My Aniversary is Wednesday, We both have to work so we Celebrated it over the weekend... I was Looking forward to the Gt3 Race Too!!! I even practiced the Tracks but i was Not paying attention to the Date:mad: Good thing She asked Me what we were doing too!!! I almost Fogot:p.Would have been in the Dog house for Weeks!!!

We should all get together and just Run a Few Races.

The Good News is the Rseat RS1 rig was ordered as a Aniversary Gift...Should have it in 4 to 6 days:victorious:

Haiden
18-04-2016, 14:34
I wonder if the tf turned down that far he is loosing the feel from the tires and needs to adjust wheel weight somewhere else.

That's definitely a possibility if he's not making up for the strength elsewhere--SG or in-car Masters.


My biggest frustration is when it seems like the wheel is not turning the car. I've always ran steering ratios at no higher than 9:0.1 and for the most part that works for me but occasionally I will get in something that has trouble turning even on slow hairpins. I end up turning the wheel way past 90 degrees and still the car pushes or understeers away. I don't know what to increase or deecrease to try and fix that. Increasing MZ seems to help just a little. I think I've heard messing with Arm Angle might have something to do with it but I haven't adjusted that since I've been using Grimey's numbers.

Have tried this in open wheel cars, where you can see what the tires are actually doing? If it's an understeer problem, then I don't see how you can solve that with FFB, unless not being able to feel the understeer is the issue. I've never heard of reducing understeer with FFB, global or in-car, only masking or enhancing the feel of it.

Jezza819
18-04-2016, 15:46
I'm curious... why are you trying to solve the understeer problem with the FFB? Have you tried making other mechanical adjustments--sway bars, springs, etc? The FFB will allow you to feel or not feel understeer, but it won't stop it from happening. The default mechanical setup on some cars is prone to understeer.

Because those are the only settings I've ever adjusted. I've never went into things like springs, sway bars, etc. I don't have the technical expertise to know what each of those things does and how to adjust them.

I did stumble across something yesterday. Since the FY is supposed to be for road feel, I ran it up to 60 on something that I felt had a little too much push in and it really helped it. Now the front end bites better and the car turns smoother. However it comes with a little penalty. It's almost like the master FFB has been turned up like 20 points or more. My wheel stand creaks and groans from the extra force required to turn the wheel. If the car gets slightly sideways the wheel is going to snap back hard if you try to correct it and it's almost guaranteed to spin out. So I'm going to try lowering master FFB just a little to see what that does.


I wonder if the tf turned down that far he is loosing the feel from the tires and needs to adjust wheel weight somewhere else.

I tried TF turned up to 98 one time and it was so stiff that I just couldn't handle it. I don't know what wheel weight means.

GrimeyDog
18-04-2016, 15:49
Because those are the only settings I've ever adjusted. I've never went into things like springs, sway bars, etc. I don't have the technical expertise to know what each of those things does and how to adjust them.

I did stumble across something yesterday. Since the FY is supposed to be for road feel, I ran it up to 60 on something that I felt had a little too much push in and it really helped it. Now the front end bites better and the car turns smoother. However it comes with a little penalty. It's almost like the master FFB has been turned up like 20 points or more. My wheel stand creaks and groans from the extra force required to turn the wheel. If the car gets slightly sideways the wheel is going to snap back hard if you try to correct it and it's almost guaranteed to spin out. So I'm going to try lowering master FFB just a little to see what that does.



I tried TF turned up to 98 one time and it was so stiff that I just couldn't handle it. I don't know what wheel weight means.

You can turn down the in car Masters to Reduce wheel weight while still maintaining the Basic Feel you like... Note this will Reduce all FFB forces though.

Wheel weight is Resisrance to turn or wheel feeling too Heavy.

Jezza819
18-04-2016, 16:02
I'm curious... why are you trying to solve the understeer problem with the FFB? Have you tried making other mechanical adjustments--sway bars, springs, etc? The FFB will allow you to feel or not feel understeer, but it won't stop it from happening. The default mechanical setup on some cars is prone to understeer.


That's definitely a possibility if he's not making up for the strength elsewhere--SG or in-car Masters.



Have tried this in open wheel cars, where you can see what the tires are actually doing? If it's an understeer problem, then I don't see how you can solve that with FFB, unless not being able to feel the understeer is the issue. I've never heard of reducing understeer with FFB, global or in-car, only masking or enhancing the feel of it.

I haven't paid much attention to it in a long time. I had such bad wheel oscillation problems with Formula A, B, and some of the older Lotus ones that I kind of abandoned open wheelers.

Jezza819
18-04-2016, 16:18
You can turn down the in car Masters to Reduce wheel weight while still maintaining the Basic Feel you like... Note this will Reduce all FFB forces though.

Wheel weight is Resisrance to turn or wheel feeling too Heavy.

Yeah I just need to experiment with it a little. Maybe reduce that FY number a tad to see what it does. But I would rather have it like it is now than it being softer like it was before.

By wheel feeling too heavy are you talking about maybe when a car has no power steering?

GrimeyDog
18-04-2016, 17:27
Yes... the wheel feels stiff and hard to turn...Also if you increase Fy that softens the Fx Feel and will make turning easier... But it lessens that turn in bite you like to feel... I'm the same way that's why i only use Fy 10 or a Fx,Fy 1 to 3 ratio if i use higher settings than are posted in My PDF.

morpwr
18-04-2016, 18:19
Because those are the only settings I've ever adjusted. I've never went into things like springs, sway bars, etc. I don't have the technical expertise to know what each of those things does and how to adjust them.

I did stumble across something yesterday. Since the FY is supposed to be for road feel, I ran it up to 60 on something that I felt had a little too much push in and it really helped it. Now the front end bites better and the car turns smoother. However it comes with a little penalty. It's almost like the master FFB has been turned up like 20 points or more. My wheel stand creaks and groans from the extra force required to turn the wheel. If the car gets slightly sideways the wheel is going to snap back hard if you try to correct it and it's almost guaranteed to spin out. So I'm going to try lowering master FFB just a little to see what that does.



I tried TF turned up to 98 one time and it was so stiff that I just couldn't handle it. I don't know what wheel weight means.

The open wheelers work fine when you get the car and wheel settings right. I would turn tf back up and compensate for wheel weight somewhere else. Where do you have the sg set at?

gotdirt410sprintcar
18-04-2016, 20:18
I played with Body scale this weekend too... No Luck for Me... one side of the wheel was very light for Me also...Shrugggs.

Edit: I too set the Body scale same as SoP:confused:

Yeah thats what happened to me but then i lowered it to twenty and had to lower bleed but I did both At the same time so I don't now really witch one worked. But i think thats how it works whatever g the car pulls gas braking is where you set body scale

Jezza819
18-04-2016, 21:26
Yes... the wheel feels stiff and hard to turn...Also if you increase Fy that softens the Fx Feel and will make turning easier... But it lessens that turn in bite you like to feel... I'm the same way that's why i only use Fy 10 or a Fx,Fy 1 to 3 ratio if i use higher settings than are posted in My PDF.

I've only tried it on two cars so far but to me it really makes the car feel more planted. One of them is the V8 Supercar. Before it felt like the car was barely turning, now I have the confidence that it's pretty much going to go where I tell it to. But I've only had these two cars so far that's needed this kind of help. Most everything else I've tested has been fine or I've adjusted something else.

Jezza819
18-04-2016, 21:27
The open wheelers work fine when you get the car and wheel settings right. I would turn tf back up and compensate for wheel weight somewhere else. Where do you have the sg set at?

Steering Gain is at 1.00.

GrimeyDog
19-04-2016, 11:39
Its been pretty Quiet in Here... Either every 1 has caught their FFB Unicorn or every 1 is playing Dirt Rally:confused:

I caught My FFB Unicorn and im Very with the FFB Now with All Cars more than Ever Now!!! That Last Scoop adjustment was the Missing Link for Me :encouragement:

morpwr
19-04-2016, 12:43
Its been pretty Quiet in Here... Either every 1 has caught their FFB Unicorn or every 1 is playing Dirt Rally:confused:

I caught My FFB Unicorn and im Very with the FFB Now with All Cars more than Ever Now!!! That Last Scoop adjustment was the Missing Link for Me :encouragement:

Same here:D Just been practicing and trying to work on my week points now. I'm going to pass on dirt rally for a bit until they fix the ffb in rallyx. I'm not going through this again.lol Plus I'm having way too much fun with p cars!!!

BigDad
19-04-2016, 13:31
Same here:D Just been practicing and trying to work on my week points now. I'm going to pass on dirt rally for a bit until they fix the ffb in rallyx. I'm not going through this again.lol Plus I'm having way too much fun with p cars!!!
IMO , don't pass Dirt because of rally x , the rally ffb in normal rally is so f@#king good , man i can't belive how good it feels , really amazing , i had a quick go back on pCars because i remember it being awesome too but after Dirt it feels quite dull .
Dirt has my Fanatec dancing , the sealed road ffb feels as good , possibly better but the dirt stuff blows me away , I've always loved pCars ffb but .....
Treat rally x as a separate game and wait for a update , there is enough in the rest of the game to just leave it altogether really .

Haiden
19-04-2016, 13:55
Its been pretty Quiet in Here... Either every 1 has caught their FFB Unicorn or every 1 is playing Dirt Rally:confused:

I caught My FFB Unicorn and im Very with the FFB Now with All Cars more than Ever Now!!! That Last Scoop adjustment was the Missing Link for Me :encouragement:


Same here:D Just been practicing and trying to work on my week points now. I'm going to pass on dirt rally for a bit until they fix the ffb in rallyx. I'm not going through this again.lol Plus I'm having way too much fun with p cars!!!

Same. FFB is perfect. Nothing to do, but enjoy the game. Rally has never been an interest for me. Waiting for Assetto Corsa and perfecting the rig--Buttkickers and a mounted dedicated screen are next. :)

GrimeyDog
19-04-2016, 14:27
IMO , don't pass Dirt because of rally x , the rally ffb in normal rally is so f@#king good , man i can't belive how good it feels , really amazing , i had a quick go back on pCars because i remember it being awesome too but after Dirt it feels quite dull .
Dirt has my Fanatec dancing , the sealed road ffb feels as good , possibly better but the dirt stuff blows me away , I've always loved pCars ffb but .....
Treat rally x as a separate game and wait for a update , there is enough in the rest of the game to just leave it altogether really .

Dirt Rally FFB is Very Good indeed!!! But i dont think it feels better than Pcars...the Self aligning Torque i find it to be a bit Much and overwhelming Compaired to other forces in Dirt Rally... Maybe its the Difference in wheels but i cant Run it Higher than 70 or the wheel trys to Rip My arms off every time it kicks in and i cant Countersteer accurately... i dont think its just the Rally X FFB Needs tweeking its the whole FFB system .

IMO the self aligning torque is unbalanced and way over powered compared to the rest of the Forces... Just while on Dirt, Snow & Ice your wheels Never Get enough Grip so you dont feel it as Much... I Tweeked the FFB doing Rally X so its Feels ok... There is a Buzzz or Grinding/Chatter in Rally X thats Not in the other Modes but i did get it to feel Good/Driveable.... But in General i do agree Dirt Rally Feels Good...After they Fine tune and Patch the FFB a Few Times it will be a Amazing Game!!!

GrimeyDog
19-04-2016, 14:33
Same. FFB is perfect. Nothing to do, but enjoy the game. Rally has never been an interest for me. Waiting for Assetto Corsa and perfecting the rig--Buttkickers and a mounted dedicated screen are next. :)

Exactly im doing the Same!!! I just ordered the Rseat RS1!!! The Full work up... Buttkicker, keyboard, Tablet Mount i can Hardly wait for it to get here!!! Been Checking My Email every Hour even wake up outta My Sleep Checking for Shipping info:p I orderd it Sunday Night with the 4 to 6 day shipping... The Days aint Moving Fast enough... LOL

gotdirt410sprintcar
19-04-2016, 14:58
I really think I'm right about body/gut, 50kg is 110 pounds 50kg is default weight . So i jumped in the KTM last night from full speed to dead stop pulls 3g's stock car by the way. So body scale is set at 4.01 300. Pounds same with body longitudinal scale 4.01

Body stiffness is set is6.01. The wheel goes heavy when going threw a corner and you feel the car step out more easy I was able to control the slides better I can feel the g forces moving from front to back left too right and its not in a bad way.

GrimeyDog
19-04-2016, 15:11
I really think I'm right about body/gut, 50kg is 110 pounds 50kg is default wieght. So i jumped in the KTM last night from full speed to dead stop pulls 3g's stock car by the way. So body scale is set at 4.01 300. Pounds same with body longitudinal scale 4.01

Body stiffness is set is6.01. The wheel goes heavy when going threw a corner and you feel the car step out more easy I think the hole system needs to be used for it to be great.

Could you Post your exact body settings so i can try them or at least get a idea of how to set them... Im lost how i would set body to work in relation to other settings.

gotdirt410sprintcar
19-04-2016, 15:19
Its at 6.01 stiffness and damping not totally sure about that part yet so I just set it like I set the body scale by g forces. But the FFB guide says you would want that lower in a kart high in a f1 car

Gutstiffness / body stiffness. Stiffness of the gut with respect of the car, so in a kart this maybe lower in a f1 car this is probably pretty high, this is from FFB guide so im guessing by g forces a kart has little g's f1 has a lot.

And damping is 6 01 i think if you dont use damping it feels like the forces move every where i ran it like you for awhile but i like it damped

The way i just tried it on the m1 pro car car weight is 2450 pounds so i set stiffness to 40.0 and damping 40.0 remember 0.01 stock is 50kg 110 pounds. this how im taking it right now anyway. But it could go by g forces too??

Jezza819
19-04-2016, 17:22
Its been pretty Quiet in Here... Either every 1 has caught their FFB Unicorn or every 1 is playing Dirt Rally:confused:



During the day at work I have to kind of hit and run looking in here and at night I'm generally playing or doing something else.

I don't know about Dirt Rally. Unless I could turn that vibration down way low because I get jarred bad enough through my hands running over the kerbs in PCars.

The things I tested last night were the Formula Gulf which is perfect, the McLaren GT1 Long Tail which needs a little work, the Caterham LMP3 - good as is, the Jaguar Palmer thing - good as is. Finally I tested the Radical RXC. It felt a little tight and stiff but I was at Oulton Park so I want to run it somewhere smoother to see what I've got. The Radical, the Caterham, and the Jaguar were the first time I've ever drove any of those cars so I don't have any past history with them to base off of.

GrimeyDog
19-04-2016, 19:55
During the day at work I have to kind of hit and run looking in here and at night I'm generally playing or doing something else.

I don't know about Dirt Rally. Unless I could turn that vibration down way low because I get jarred bad enough through my hands running over the kerbs in PCars.

The things I tested last night were the Formula Gulf which is perfect, the McLaren GT1 Long Tail which needs a little work, the Caterham LMP3 - good as is, the Jaguar Palmer thing - good as is. Finally I tested the Radical RXC. It felt a little tight and stiff but I was at Oulton Park so I want to run it somewhere smoother to see what I've got. The Radical, the Caterham, and the Jaguar were the first time I've ever drove any of those cars so I don't have any past history with them to base off of.


Nice work thanx for testing... Keep Me posted to your test results:encouragement:
As long as the FFB and Road feels Good that you that you can get a Clean fast Lap then that's as Good as it gets the rest is suspension tweeking...I been just driving the cars stock...the stock suspension are Good enough for Me to get fast competitive times...i will eventually tune 1 car to see if it makes a huge diff or Not... but i'm Not gonna tune just to get .500 its not worth the effort... time gains need to be 1 sec or more faster that may inspire Me:indecisiveness:

tennenbaum
19-04-2016, 20:37
Its been pretty Quiet in Here... Either every 1 has caught their FFB Unicorn or every 1 is playing Dirt Rally:confused:

I caught My FFB Unicorn and im Very with the FFB Now with All Cars more than Ever Now!!! That Last Scoop adjustment was the Missing Link for Me :encouragement:

when i thought i caught the unicorn, i just switched off RAG (and tried it with my own Fxxzm settings and JS settings) due to curiosity... i liked it. i got a more realistic constant wheel wheight during cornering - very satisfying, cause it proved practically what i thought i figured out in theorey. but i guess that was the moment i got a bit tired to be SMS guinee pig to explore their open world sand pit. usually i have clear opnion about the FFB settings, but this time i got confused...

morpwr
19-04-2016, 22:08
Exactly im doing the Same!!! I just ordered the Rseat RS1!!! The Full work up... Buttkicker, keyboard, Tablet Mount i can Hardly wait for it to get here!!! Been Checking My Email every Hour even wake up outta My Sleep Checking for Shipping info:p I orderd it Sunday Night with the 4 to 6 day shipping... The Days aint Moving Fast enough... LOL

Youre going to love having a rig! Ive had a playseat for years and just switched to the gt omega when pcars came out. My back couldn't take the playseat anymore after getting rearended at a redlight. But youll never want to go back that's for sure. Ive been looking into motion controls that will work with the ps4. Now that would be really cool!!!

morpwr
19-04-2016, 22:18
Same. FFB is perfect. Nothing to do, but enjoy the game. Rally has never been an interest for me. Waiting for Assetto Corsa and perfecting the rig--Buttkickers and a mounted dedicated screen are next. :)

I had dirt 2 I think which was alot of fun. But so far I'm just not getting as excited about it as I am p cars. The other thing is shortly after getting dirt rally my t300 wound up with a bad bearing in the shaft. Noticable up and down play.:( No the wheel wasn't loose lol first thing I checked. Now I'm not blaming the game because I don't know what caused it but it doesn't excite me about finding out either. I'm really waiting to see what assetto corsa and gt bring to the table. With p cars offering some really stiff competition on consoles they are going to have to bring their a game.

gotdirt410sprintcar
19-04-2016, 22:24
when i thought i caught the unicorn, i just switched off RAG (and tried it with my own Fxxzm settings and JS settings) due to curiosity... i liked it. i got a more realistic constant wheel wheight during cornering - very satisfying, cause it proved practically what i thought i figured out in theorey. but i guess that was the moment i got a bit tired to be SMS guinee pig to explore their open world sand pit. usually i have clear opnion about the FFB settings, but this time i got confused...

I think someone needs to test the body scale and stiffness settings. And don't match the rest of the masters that is g forces only and you you can leave it where its at but that is only100 pounds probably be fine in a kart but a car that pulls 3g's in the brake zone will feel all wrong.


I have played with it before and now my thinking is car pulls say 3g's under braking that will be set at 4.01 300pounds by default its set at 100 anyway. I have tested two cars this way I have a better understanding what the car is doing trust me

Haiden
19-04-2016, 22:49
I had dirt 2 I think which was alot of fun. But so far I'm just not getting as excited about it as I am p cars. The other thing is shortly after getting dirt rally my t300 wound up with a bad bearing in the shaft. Noticable up and down play.:( No the wheel wasn't loose lol first thing I checked. Now I'm not blaming the game because I don't know what caused it but it doesn't excite me about finding out either. I'm really waiting to see what assetto corsa and gt bring to the table. With p cars offering some really stiff competition on consoles they are going to have to bring their a game.

Interesting. I've heard someone else had problems with vertical play in their wheel base after playtime with the newly released Dirt Rally. Doesn't matter either way for me. If there's dirt on the track, I'm just not interested. :)

Assetto Corsa and GT7 will help me decide about whether or not a gaming PC is in my future.

morpwr
20-04-2016, 01:05
Interesting. I've heard someone else had problems with vertical play in their wheel base after playtime with the newly released Dirt Rally. Doesn't matter either way for me. If there's dirt on the track, I'm just not interested. :)

Assetto Corsa and GT7 will help me decide about whether or not a gaming PC is in my future.

I know what you mean about the gaming pc. It opens up a lot of possibilities for some really cool upgrades and games but I really like the plug and play part of the consoles. As for dirt rally I just don't get the same feeling I had with p cars even in the beginning. I got bits and pieces of really good ffb so it was worth the work to get it all together. Dirt just feels wrong to me at this point. So ill wait and see what the update brings before I take the chance on another wheel. Amazon did replace mine but it took some complaining so I definitely wont get another.

Ekay.jay
20-04-2016, 01:12
I know what you mean about the gaming pc. It opens up a lot of possibilities for some really cool upgrades and games but I really like the plug and play part of the consoles. As for dirt rally I just don't get the same feeling I had with p cars even in the beginning. I got bits and pieces of really good ffb so it was worth the work to get it all together. Dirt just feels wrong to me at this point. So ill wait and see what the update brings before I take the chance on another wheel. Amazon did replace mine but it took some complaining so I definitely wont get another.

If you bitch and complain Amazon will take back just about anything.

GrimeyDog
20-04-2016, 11:02
I think someone needs to test the body scale and stiffness settings. And don't match the rest of the masters that is g forces only and you you can leave it where its at but that is only100 pounds probably be fine in a kart but a car that pulls 3g's in the brake zone will feel all wrong.


I have played with it before and now my thinking is car pulls say 3g's under braking that will be set at 4.01 300pounds by default its set at 100 anyway. I have tested two cars this way I have a better understanding what the car is doing trust me

Post the Exact body settings that you are using.
im lazy dont feel like doing the math... i will use your exact Body Scale settings as a template to test and tweek.

morpwr
20-04-2016, 11:12
If you bitch and complain Amazon will take back just about anything.

That was the weird part. I was well within the 2 year warranty but they said it was only covered for 90 days.Which I'm wondering if that had something to do with the amount of them they replaced under warranty? Now for the really confusing part. They had no problem giving me back my money but couldn't understand why it would just be easier to send me a new wheel with an rga. lol In the end they did just send the new one but took me an hour on the phone.

Haiden
20-04-2016, 11:21
I know what you mean about the gaming pc. It opens up a lot of possibilities for some really cool upgrades and games but I really like the plug and play part of the consoles. As for dirt rally I just don't get the same feeling I had with p cars even in the beginning. I got bits and pieces of really good ffb so it was worth the work to get it all together. Dirt just feels wrong to me at this point. So ill wait and see what the update brings before I take the chance on another wheel. Amazon did replace mine but it took some complaining so I definitely wont get another.

The upgrades and mods are what's really pushing me--custom liveries, custom grids in single player, more apps, etc. I doubt I'll play anything else on it, other than racing titles, though. I think there's also a bigger racing community on PC, which means more fun online. But you're right about the convenience of consoles. I followed a friend who switched to PC, and watched him asking question after question about driver conflicts, and things not working right. He always got an answer or directed to a fix, but the hassle of doing the troubleshooting seemed like a turn-off to me. If AC and GT7 ramp up the console experience, like PCars did, it'll be hard to give up the plug-and-play convenience. At least for the time being. :)

gotdirt410sprintcar
21-04-2016, 03:47
Ok here is a KTM with body scale added and i found 1070 on a 1080 wheel is better

Master scale 110.


FX 160.00.




FY 8.01

FZ 118. 00

MZ 40.00

FX smoothing30.0

MZ smoothing10.0

Arm 0

Body scale 2.00

Body longitudinal scale 160.0

Body stiffness 2.0 and damping

Sop scale 110

Lateral 10

Diff 100. Sorry used cell phone. Its not bad right now i need to fine tune it some more but give it a try with your car settings first then try these

Edit... These are my settings i found some things in the baseline thread that i missed long ago so i tested his thinking. My globals might need some tweeking but this is the way im setting every car up from here on forward, Not all in car FFB will be like this but you get my point.

I will explain why I went this way went to baseline thread under the how the system works there is a. I don't know what you call it you click on it takes you to that spot in the thread that thing lol.

That guy explains the percent he runs each in car FFB setting FX was like 130 160 masters was in the 110 120 percent Grim DOG and so on and you guys get it so im on the right path NOWWW.

body longitudinal only uses lateral forces at low numbers, high numbers longitudinal takes affect and you can tell. So I match Fx seems right my scoops deadzone need cleaned up and some tweaking on the in car best it felt in awhile.

The g force thing to me seems too look smoother looking, I think it moves more when you don't play with the body stuff.

GrimeyDog
21-04-2016, 10:29
Ok here is a KTM with body scale added and i found 1070 on a 1080 wheel is better

Master scale 110.


FX 160.00.




FY 8.01

FZ 118. 00

MZ 40.00

FX smoothing30.0

MZ smoothing10.0

Arm 0

Body scale 2.00

Body longitudinal scale 160.0

Body stiffness 2.0 and damping

Sop scale 110

Lateral 10

Diff 100. Sorry used cell phone. Its not bad right now i need to fine tune it some more but give it a try with your car settings first then try these

Edit... These are my settings i found some things in the baseline thread that i missed long ago so i tested his thinking. My globals might need some tweeking but this is the way im setting every car up from here on forward, Not all in car FFB will be like this but you get my point.

I will explain why I went this way went to baseline thread under the how the system works there is a. I don't know what you call it you click on it takes you to that spot in the thread that thing lol.

That guy explains the percent he runs each in car FFB setting FX was like 130 160 masters was in the 110 120 percent Grim DOG and so on and you guys get it so im on the right path NOWWW.

body longitudinal only uses lateral forces at low numbers, high numbers longitudinal takes affect and you can tell. So I match Fx seems right my scoops deadzone need cleaned up and some tweaking on the in car best it felt in awhile.

The g force thing to me seems too look smoother looking, I think it moves more when you don't play with the body stuff.

Im going to try these settings tonight when i get off work:yes:

morpwr
21-04-2016, 11:17
The upgrades and mods are what's really pushing me--custom liveries, custom grids in single player, more apps, etc. I doubt I'll play anything else on it, other than racing titles, though. I think there's also a bigger racing community on PC, which means more fun online. But you're right about the convenience of consoles. I followed a friend who switched to PC, and watched him asking question after question about driver conflicts, and things not working right. He always got an answer or directed to a fix, but the hassle of doing the troubleshooting seemed like a turn-off to me. If AC and GT7 ramp up the console experience, like PCars did, it'll be hard to give up the plug-and-play convenience. At least for the time being. :)

That's my problem too with pc the constant troubleshooting. Now with a new ps only months away it makes a pc that much less of an option. Especially like you said if ac and gt are really good. That will give me enough racing games to keep me occupied for a while.

Boskapongen
21-04-2016, 12:46
This FFB tune was created for the CSW-v2 wheel. I started with Jack Spade's global settings and made some adjustments. The red highlighted values are the scales that I recommended testing at lower/higher increments, if you're looking to adapt these settings to other wheels. Per Wheel Movement settings are to reduce drag on Fanatec wheels, and differs per model. Non-Fanatec wheels probably don’t need this and can leave these scales at default.

The feel of these settings is lighter than my previous FFB tunes. If your used to more weight, it might feel strange. You can increase SG, FF, or TF to bring more weight to wheel, but I highly recommend giving yourself a few solid hours (if not a day) to adapt to the lighter feel, before making any changes. I've found that raising SG, FF, or TF (especially SG) can oversaturate the wheel, and drown out a great deal of subtle feel. I was used to a more weighted wheel, and it took me a while to accept this. But I now believe that the saturation from these higher levels was what was preventing me from perfecting the tune. After a few hours of driving it, you'll definitely be able to tell what's missing when you increase SG, FF, or TF to the point of oversaturation.

*Note: Currently, the @wheel FF on Fanatac wheels is overriding the game’s global FF. Keeping these values the same or close will hopefully makes things easier for me if that control changes down the road.


Fanatec CSW V2 Wheel base settings:

Sens: AUT | FF: 90-95 | SHo: 100 | ABS: OFF | Lin: OFF | Dea: OFF | Dri: OFF | For: 100 | Spr: 100 | Dpr: 100 | Brf: 50

Driver settings: Driver/FW 231/142

------------------------------------------------------------

In-game, Global FFB Settings:

Tire Force: 75
Force Feedback: 90-95

Per Wheel Movement: -0.06
Per Wheel Movement Squared: 0.03
Wheel Position Smoothing: 0.04

Deadzone Removal Range: 0.05
Deadzone Removal Falloff: 0.02

Linkage Scale: 0.00
Linkage Stiffness: 1.00
Linkage Damping: 1.00

Relative Adjust Gain: 1.50
Relative Adjust Bleed: 0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp: 0.85

Scoop Knee: 0.86
Scoop Reduction: 0.28

Soft Clipping (half input): 0.00
Soft Clipping (full input): 0.00

Menu Spring Strength: 0.30
Low Speed Spring Coefficient: 0.75
Low Speed Spring Saturation: 1.00

Steering gain: 1.10


Sensitivity and Deadzones:

Steering Sensitivity: 60 (higher settings 70-80 feel too twitchy with the Open Wheel classes)
Braking Sensitivity: 90
Throttle Sensitivity: 90

Haiden, you mailbox is full (PM). ;)

RomKnight
21-04-2016, 15:13
Just to make it clear, the wheel settings don't override anything on pCARS. It just "lower the volume" to whatever percentage you set when it arrives on the wheel. A.e., if the signal comes from pCARS clipping, the wheel FFB settings won't change that and you'll need to tweak in-game to stop the clipping.

/edit

A good use ofr the wheel setting is after one hour of racing and you're starting to feel tired, you can make it lighter but reducing the strength on the wheel without affecting the FFB signal. but don't lower it too much (below 6 is already too weak IIRC) and don't go over 100 either unless the non-clipping signal from the games is TOO weak (which I highly doubt so). Fanatec does not recommend going over 100 anyway. Not sure if it is even possible in the latest drivers.

GrimeyDog
21-04-2016, 15:50
Just to make it clear, the wheel settings don't override anything on pCARS. It just "lower the volume" to whatever percentage you set when it arrives on the wheel. A.e., if the signal comes from pCARS clipping, the wheel FFB settings won't change that and you'll need to tweak in-game to stop the clipping.

/edit

A good use ofr the wheel setting is after one hour of racing and you're starting to feel tired, you can make it lighter but reducing the strength on the wheel without affecting the FFB signal. but don't lower it too much (below 6 is already too weak IIRC) and don't go over 100 either unless the non-clipping signal from the games is TOO weak (which I highly doubt so). Fanatec does not recommend going over 100 anyway. Not sure if it is even possible in the latest drivers.

The Wheel FFB setting goes to 100... The FOR setting goes to 150 IIRC.

I

GrimeyDog
21-04-2016, 16:00
Very Srange... I Reset My Global setting plugged in all my other settings but i did Not bother to do the GM FFB... The Default GM FFB is 50 and i just left it there... I Noticed that My wheel Felt Heavier than Normal. . I Reset and Plugged every thing in again Same Result.... I went back and set the GM FFB to 100 and the wheel is back to its Normal wheel weight... set GM FFB to 50 again and the wheel was a Tad Heavier again... I tested this a Few Times and each time same Result... I wonder if 100 GM FFB is the Auto FFB turn on for PS4 and that fact has Not been told to us:confused: Could some one with a Fanatec wheel tezt this, No other Global/In Car settings were Changed and My on wheel FFB is set at 75.

I took a break been playing Dirt Rally... Thats a Good thing... Now going back to Pcars i Notice little things i over looked before... No Re Tweeking just fine tuning.

Haiden
21-04-2016, 16:16
Haiden, you mailbox is full (PM). ;)

Didn't realize there was a limit. It's clear now. Thanks!

Haiden
21-04-2016, 16:22
Just to make it clear, the wheel settings don't override anything on pCARS. It just "lower the volume" to whatever percentage you set when it arrives on the wheel. A.e., if the signal comes from pCARS clipping, the wheel FFB settings won't change that and you'll need to tweak in-game to stop the clipping.

/edit

A good use ofr the wheel setting is after one hour of racing and you're starting to feel tired, you can make it lighter but reducing the strength on the wheel without affecting the FFB signal. but don't lower it too much (below 6 is already too weak IIRC) and don't go over 100 either unless the non-clipping signal from the games is TOO weak (which I highly doubt so). Fanatec does not recommend going over 100 anyway. Not sure if it is even possible in the latest drivers.

I understand what you're saying, but it doesn't work that way on PS4. If you set the game FF to 0, but leave the wheel FF at 100, you will still get full force. It doesn't work that way on Xb1, or, to my knowledge, PC either. Override might not be the correct term, but on PS4, the wheel FF seems to be doing more than just attenuating the signal. Whatever is happening, it's something PS4/CSW-v2 owners need to be aware of, because simply changing the in-game FF doesn't work.

gotdirt410sprintcar
21-04-2016, 16:23
What causes the spikes in the FFB line like i have little lines that come off the FFB line then i get long ones lines goes Up and down my scoops are knee 86 reduction 26?

morpwr
21-04-2016, 16:40
What causes the spikes in the FFB line like i have little lines that come off the FFB line then i get long ones lines goes Up and down my scoops are knee 86 reduction 26?

If you are talking the little spikes on the waveform those are what I like to call ffb noise. Weight without any usefull information. Actually it covers up the stuff we want to feel. Normally you get that with something set too high.

GrimeyDog
21-04-2016, 16:42
What causes the spikes in the FFB line like i have little lines that come off the FFB line then i get long ones lines goes Up and down my scoops are knee 86 reduction 26?

Explain this in more detail is Needed.

also what Track or When does it happen...on a Smooth track.... Did you Reload game to make sure its Not the FFB Glitch???

GrimeyDog
21-04-2016, 16:51
I understand what you're saying, but it doesn't work that way on PS4. If you set the game FF to 0, but leave the wheel FF at 100, you will still get full force. It doesn't work that way on Xb1, or, to my knowledge, PC either. Override might not be the correct term, but on PS4, the wheel FF seems to be doing more than just attenuating the signal. Whatever is happening, it's something PS4/CSW-v2 owners need to be aware of, because simply changing the in-game FF doesn't work.


Very Srange... I Reset My Global setting plugged in all my other settings but i did Not bother to do the GM FFB... The Default GM FFB is 50 and i just left it there... I Noticed that My wheel Felt Heavier than Normal. . I Reset and Plugged every thing in again Same Result.... I went back and set the GM FFB to 100 and the wheel is back to its Normal wheel weight... set GM FFB to 50 again and the wheel was a Tad Heavier again... I tested this a Few Times and each time same Result... I wonder if 100 GM FFB is the Auto FFB turn on for PS4 and that fact has Not been told to us:confused: Could some one with a Fanatec wheel tezt this, No other Global/In Car settings were Changed and My on wheel FFB is set at 75.

I took a break been playing Dirt Rally... Thats a Good thing... Now going back to Pcars i Notice little things i over looked before... No Re Tweeking just fine tuning.

I dunno i Noticed this last Night... 1 to 99 maybe No Difference but when i set GM FFB 100 the wheel is Lightwr for sure it almost feels like the Auto FFB on XB1 but better than i Remember it... I will Have to Check My XB1 to see if it feels the same... I havent tried 9 or 10.0 on XB1 yet.

I wonder if GM FFB 100 sets PS4 Pcars to Auto FFB and lets the Fanatec on Wheel FFB setting take over GM FFB??? there is a Difference between GM FFB 50(Stronger) and 100(Lighter)

Haiden
21-04-2016, 17:48
I dunno i Noticed this last Night... 1 to 99 maybe No Difference but when i set GM FFB 100 the wheel is Lightwr for sure it almost feels like the Auto FFB on XB1 but better than i Remember it... I will Have to Check My XB1 to see if it feels the same... I havent tried 9 or 10.0 on XB1 yet.

I wonder if GM FFB 100 sets PS4 Pcars to Auto FFB and lets the Fanatec on Wheel FFB setting take over GM FFB??? there is a Difference between GM FFB 50(Stronger) and 100(Lighter)

I'll have to try it later tonight. Could be. That's why I said "override" might not be the best term. But it definitely doesn't function the way it does on the other platforms, which makes it something Fanatec owners just have to be aware of. :confused:

gotdirt410sprintcar
21-04-2016, 22:06
If you are talking the little spikes on the waveform those are what I like to call ffb noise. Weight without any usefull information. Actually it covers up the stuff we want to feel. Normally you get that with something set too high.

Yeah it probably the issue I have FX on the stance works BMW like130 so I'm guessing that's the part of the problem.

morpwr
21-04-2016, 22:32
Yeah it probably the issue I have FX on the stance works BMW like130 so I'm guessing that's the part of the problem.

Did it start when you were playing with the body stuff or was it there before?

gotdirt410sprintcar
21-04-2016, 22:36
I add both today really quick . Probably not KTM is not like that

morpwr
21-04-2016, 22:45
I add both today really quick . Probably not KTM is not like that

If its not from the body stuff then its some clipping. Where do you have sg and tf at?

gotdirt410sprintcar
22-04-2016, 00:04
TF 100 sg1.00 gain98 bleed 5 clamp 80. Might add some soft clipper but I will play with in car settings first. I set master to 110 so that could be it too

morpwr
22-04-2016, 00:29
TF 100 sg1.00 gain98 bleed 5 clamp 80. Might add some soft clipper but I will play with in car settings first. I set master to 110 so that could be it too

Dont you have a t500? With those settings I cant believe you can turn the wheel. Holy crap.lol With the master at 110,tf 100 and sg at 1.0 I couldn't turn mine. Isnt the default 50 for that wheel? If you really have the master at 110 you are probably getting tons of at the wheel clipping even if the hud isn't showing any. Youre probably losing tons of detail without realizing it. Just a thought...

morpwr
22-04-2016, 00:40
TF 100 sg1.00 gain98 bleed 5 clamp 80. Might add some soft clipper but I will play with in car settings first. I set master to 110 so that could be it too

The master wont show in the hud its after it.

Haiden
22-04-2016, 02:40
I dunno i Noticed this last Night... 1 to 99 maybe No Difference but when i set GM FFB 100 the wheel is Lightwr for sure it almost feels like the Auto FFB on XB1 but better than i Remember it... I will Have to Check My XB1 to see if it feels the same... I havent tried 9 or 10.0 on XB1 yet.

I wonder if GM FFB 100 sets PS4 Pcars to Auto FFB and lets the Fanatec on Wheel FFB setting take over GM FFB??? there is a Difference between GM FFB 50(Stronger) and 100(Lighter)

I had mine GM FFB set to 90, same at the wheel. I tried the GM FFB at 50, 90, and 100. They all felt the same to me, no lighter or heavier.


I have FFB at 38 the wheel is not that heavy soft clipper will lighten the wheel up. I'm going to test some more settings this weekend to see but you could be right

Soft clipping can actually make the wheel heavier, depending on your other settings.

gotdirt410sprintcar
22-04-2016, 05:44
Who is pre ordering AC ?

morpwr
22-04-2016, 10:54
Who is pre ordering AC ?

Already on order:D

GrimeyDog
22-04-2016, 12:57
Pre ordered 3months ago.

BigDad
22-04-2016, 13:08
Yep and hanging for it . Just tried this game (pCars)again after Dirt and all i got was game crashes and lose of ffb several times . Sad really .

morpwr
22-04-2016, 13:17
Yep and hanging for it . Just tried this game (pCars)again after Dirt and all i got was game crashes and lose of ffb several times . Sad really .

As dumb as this sounds id try rebuilding the database and clean the vents on the ps4 with a vacuum. I haven't had a crash or problem since doing it. Before that I was getting crashes almost every time I played.

Haiden
22-04-2016, 13:26
Who is pre ordering AC ?


As dumb as this sounds id try rebuilding the database and clean the vents on the ps4 with a vacuum. I haven't had a crash or problem since doing it. Before that I was getting crashes almost every time I played.

Definitely getting AC.

I haven't had many crashes on PS4, but I have mine in a well-ventilated area with a USB cooling fan sitting on top, blowing directly down on the console. I think I've had one crash in the last three months. I also did the database rebuild a while back. Not sure why they call it that. It's basically a disc defragmentation, something all hard drives need if you've got a lot of data on the disc, and have been deleting and saving large blocks of data over its life.

Of course, now that I said that, I'll crash tonight. :)

BigDad
22-04-2016, 14:11
As dumb as this sounds id try rebuilding the database and clean the vents on the ps4 with a vacuum. I haven't had a crash or problem since doing it. Before that I was getting crashes almost every time I played.
Yeah cheers Mate , done all that , ps4 sits in clear clean air and is clean around the vents and i rebuild the database regularly . Not sure what it is but my system hates pCars, the fan goes stupid in the garage tune screens and it crashes alot to ps4 home screen . Non of my ( i counted them ) 11 other games have had any of these issues .??

morpwr
22-04-2016, 14:30
Yeah cheers Mate , done all that , ps4 sits in clear clean air and is clean around the vents and i rebuild the database regularly . Not sure what it is but my system hates pCars, the fan goes stupid in the garage tune screens and it crashes alot to ps4 home screen . Non of my ( i counted them ) 11 other games have had any of these issues .??

Yeah that's weird. Ive seen the fan issue posted but ive never had that happen myself. Have you tried deleting everything and reinstalling it?

BigDad
22-04-2016, 14:49
Yeah just before patch 9.0 .
I think that helped the ffb but nothing else , sadly .

Jezza819
22-04-2016, 15:09
Who is pre ordering AC ?

I'm going to wait and see some reviews first.

GrimeyDog
22-04-2016, 15:20
Dirt Rally will be a Great Game once they Patch the FFB.
Rally X FFB has Grinding in it and the the other Modes FFB is Very Weak but FFB effects can be Clearly felt... When I turn up the Steering Centering force above 65 its way over powered and drowns out all other forces and makes counter steering Not Good.... Shrugggs why Must we go through this... when will they ever release a Game thats Ready and Glitch free.

Haiden
22-04-2016, 15:36
Yeah cheers Mate , done all that , ps4 sits in clear clean air and is clean around the vents and i rebuild the database regularly . Not sure what it is but my system hates pCars, the fan goes stupid in the garage tune screens and it crashes alot to ps4 home screen . Non of my ( i counted them ) 11 other games have had any of these issues .??

When did you buy your console? I think the earlier units run hotter for some reason and have noisier fans. I bought mine almost a year ago, and even with the USB cooling fan on it, I don't really hear it at all when playing PCars.

gotdirt410sprintcar
22-04-2016, 15:57
If I delete everything? I can use the cloud to keep career etc.?

morpwr
22-04-2016, 16:18
If I delete everything? I can use the cloud to keep career etc.?

I don't think so. I think you have to save it on something else but not sure how that would work if its already messed up.lol Yeah I know loosing the career sucks that's why I never started one again until recently.

GrimeyDog
22-04-2016, 17:01
As dumb as this sounds id try rebuilding the database and clean the vents on the ps4 with a vacuum. I haven't had a crash or problem since doing it. Before that I was getting crashes almost every time I played.

My Fan goes Crazy also when sitting innthe Tuning Screen!!! This is a Known Issue and i think they will be fixing it in the Next update... I Delete all Game Data including Game Save and do a fresh install before every update... I Rarely if ever get the Crash back to dash board, Doing a fresh instal may help but the fans will still Run wild while idle in tuning screen....The Replay Data can Stay.... This is also why i have just Never bothered with completing Career events because i always delete everything when its update time.

I bought My PS4 just before Pcars Launch and mainly use it for Pcars only.

gotdirt410sprintcar
22-04-2016, 17:25
I think I will do it just to make sure but save my stuff
My fan runs some but not to bad fan on wheel kicks on sometimes stays pretty cool for the most part.

I just want to do it to see if i have a FFB BUG thing.

morpwr
22-04-2016, 17:25
When did you buy your console? I think the earlier units run hotter for some reason and have noisier fans. I bought mine almost a year ago, and even with the USB cooling fan on it, I don't really hear it at all when playing PCars.

I got mine the first day the ps4 came out and I don't have those problems. Maybe getting hot but since I cleaned it no issues and ive never heard my fan unless I'm actually listening for it.

inthebagbud
22-04-2016, 17:44
Grimey as you like chasing the unicorn, have you ever tried your fanatic without any RAG/B//C , I have and I cannot tell the difference with it on or off on the xbox .... sorry just had to ask:D

morpwr
22-04-2016, 18:00
I think I will do it just to make sure but save my stuff
My fan runs some but not to bad fan on wheel kicks on sometimes stays pretty cool for the most part.

I just want to do it to see if i have a FFB BUG thing.

Unfortunately it happens a lot when you update. If you've never deleted it before I definitely would. Some of the earlier updates made the ffb really weird after unless you started fresh.

Ekay.jay
22-04-2016, 18:36
Any time I go into the garage menu my ps4 fan comes on. It doesn't matter if iv been playing for 2 hours or just booted up the system. The second I exit the garage menu they go off. There has been threads about it, many other people have experience the exact same thing.

Roger Prynne
22-04-2016, 19:06
It must be the same thing as the PC version, when you go into the garage the GPU goes up to 99%.
If the PS4 does similar then the fans would probably run at max speed to try and cool things down.

Haiden
22-04-2016, 19:07
My Fan goes Crazy also when sitting innthe Tuning Screen!!! This is a Known Issue and i think they will be fixing it in the Next update... I Delete all Game Data including Game Save and do a fresh install before every update... I Rarely if ever get the Crash back to dash board, Doing a fresh instal may help but the fans will still Run wild while idle in tuning screen....The Replay Data can Stay.... This is also why i have just Never bothered with completing Career events because i always delete everything when its update time.

I bought My PS4 just before Pcars Launch and mainly use it for Pcars only.


I got mine the first day the ps4 came out and I don't have those problems. Maybe getting hot but since I cleaned it no issues and ive never heard my fan unless I'm actually listening for it.


Any time I go into the garage menu my ps4 fan comes on. It doesn't matter if iv been playing for 2 hours or just booted up the system. The second I exit the garage menu they go off. There has been threads about it, many other people have experience the exact same thing.

That's so strange how they all behave differently. I don't get it, but I feel like it has more to do with the game than the console, because I can't recall hearing about other PS4 games delivering such a varied experience. Even when other games are buggy, they're bugs are fairly consistent from user to user. The fan being loud is definitely a PS4 issue, but in other games it's consistent. With PCars, some people get it, other don't. :confused:

GrimeyDog
22-04-2016, 19:28
That's so strange how they all behave differently. I don't get it, but I feel like it has more to do with the game than the console, because I can't recall hearing about other PS4 games delivering such a varied experience. Even when other games are buggy, they're bugs are fairly consistent from user to user. The fan being loud is definitely a PS4 issue, but in other games it's consistent. With PCars, some people get it, other don't. :confused:l


You dont get it because your special... your always special and different:D...Go back and read some of your post you may just realize how truely special and different you really are:stupid: ijs :victorious::tongue-new::applause:

morpwr
22-04-2016, 19:36
Grimeys on a roll.lmao Must be because its Friday.:D

GrimeyDog
22-04-2016, 19:47
Grimey as you like chasing the unicorn, have you ever tried your fanatic without any RAG/B//C , I have and I cannot tell the difference with it on or off on the xbox .... sorry just had to ask:D

I have tried it on PS4... I cant remember the result..I dont think i liked it because i didnt take notes about it or try to work it into a tweek some how... i will test it on XB1 when i get a chance.