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poirqc
09-02-2017, 00:56
Man.. I'm so confused. I thought everybody knew this by now. These things have been discussed forever in the simracing community.

People like to find stuff by themselves! That's our nature. :D

It makes us feel good!

lancashirelad
09-02-2017, 08:18
No confusion

Was not aimed at your post, should of been the one before yours, sorry for confusion :)

morpwr
09-02-2017, 10:53
Was not aimed at your post, should of been the one before yours, sorry for confusion :)

LOL np

morpwr
09-02-2017, 10:57
Unless it has an expected release date, I'm good just knowing it's close. If he's sending it as a replacement, I hope that means possibly this year. That's really the only thing keeping me from buying an Accuforce. It's worth the wait if I can stay with Fanatec and keep my existing rim set. :)

For you and grimey it makes sense seeing you both have a couple wheels at least already. It will be interesting to see how much and how strong it is.

Roger Prynne
09-02-2017, 10:59
Very interesting!!! When i play using Oculus Rift i Feel Very comfortable using 50 on wheel FFB... Maybe its because the Rift puts you inside a virtual Car... It really Looks like your in the Car and can Reach down and Grab the Shifter and push the buttons on tge dash!!!

When i play on My TV on wheel 50 feels Light and i keep over steering... Very interesting.

I get the same sort of effect between hood cam and helmet cam.... they feel completely different to me as regards the FFB.... it's just a perception thing though.

Haiden
09-02-2017, 11:18
For you and grimey it makes sense seeing you both have a couple wheels at least already. It will be interesting to see how much and how strong it is.

Definitely. To be honest, I'm okay with the strength of the V2 right now, though. I'm assuming the DD will be stronger, at least to some degree, so that's a definite win for me. What I really want from the DD wheel is increased fidelity and better response time. I'd really like to have Accuforce's sim commander, but again...that would mean giving up my rims and, if I wanted an F1 rim (which I would), I'd have to modify my Fanatec or buy a new one. Add that to the cost of the Accuforce and I'm pretty sure the Fanatec DD will be the more sensible option. I just don't want to drive modern open wheelers with a regular rim. Even in GT cars, if it has a formula style rim--like the McLaren and Corvette--I prefer to use that.

morpwr
09-02-2017, 11:41
Definitely. To be honest, I'm okay with the strength of the V2 right now, though. I'm assuming the DD will be stronger, at least to some degree, so that's a definite win for me. What I really want from the DD wheel is increased fidelity and better response time. I'd really like to have Accuforce's sim commander, but again...that would mean giving up my rims and, if I wanted an F1 rim (which I would), I'd have to modify my Fanatec or buy a new one. Add that to the cost of the Accuforce and I'm pretty sure the Fanatec DD will be the more sensible option. I just don't want to drive modern open wheelers with a regular rim. Even in GT cars, if it has a formula style rim--like the McLaren and Corvette--I prefer to use that.

After seeing(feeling) the difference just a couple nm makes if they even got to the 10nm range and kept the price reasonable I think that would be plenty for most people.

Haiden
09-02-2017, 14:52
I do have to go back and try the variable setting again though. I tried it once and found what you did so I didn't really like it.But didn't think turning the gain down would work because in fixed mode it just goes the opposite of what you did with the gain so I just didn't try it again.

Have you tried it? I played with it a lot more last night, and decided to go back to using a fixed gain. I like the dynamic gain, but I noticed a coupled of things. One, when using it, I feel less differentiation between cars. The handling characteristics are obviously still different, but the feel/weight in the wheel seems too similar to me. Also, the dynamism is reactive, meaning you have to start turning the wheel before it adjusts. When the forces ramp up on straights (to anywhere from 150 to 200%), you get a quick drop as soon as you start turning in. That drop in force feels a little notchy to me when the wheel releases and the gain goes from 150%+ down to 80% in a split second. And for that split second it kind of feels like clipping (even though it isn't). But the quick change/drop makes the wheel feel numb for a fraction of a second.

With the fixed gain, I feel there's more variance in wheel weight between cars, which, coupled with the individual handling characteristics, gives them their own unique feel. IDK... if you try it, let me know what you think. It's nice, and I'll probably use it on occasion. But fixed gain is going to remain my default.

morpwr
09-02-2017, 15:00
Have you tried it? I played with it a lot more last night, and decided to go back to using a fixed gain. I like the dynamic gain, but I noticed a coupled of things. One, when using it, I feel less differentiation between cars. The handling characteristics are obviously still different, but the feel/weight in the wheel seems too similar to me. Also, the dynamism is reactive, meaning you have to start turning the wheel before it adjusts. When the forces ramp up on straights (to anywhere from 150 to 200%), you get a quick drop as soon as you start turning in. That drop in force feels a little notchy to me when the wheel releases and the gain goes from 150%+ down to 80% in a split second. And for that split second it kind of feels like clipping (even though it isn't). But the quick change/drop makes the wheel feel numb for a fraction of a second.

With the fixed gain, I feel there's more variance in wheel weight between cars, which, coupled with the individual handling characteristics, gives them their own unique feel. IDK... if you try it, let me know what you think. It's nice, and I'll probably use it on occasion. But fixed gain is going to remain my default.

No I haven't played since sunday. Ive got this plague thats going around here. But I'm starting to feel a little better so I may try and get some in tonight.

GrimeyDog
09-02-2017, 20:58
:cool:

http://www.isrtv.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/CSPV3i_10.jpg

Roger Prynne
09-02-2017, 21:00
Have you tried it? I played with it a lot more last night, and decided to go back to using a fixed gain. I like the dynamic gain, but I noticed a coupled of things. One, when using it, I feel less differentiation between cars. The handling characteristics are obviously still different, but the feel/weight in the wheel seems too similar to me. Also, the dynamism is reactive, meaning you have to start turning the wheel before it adjusts. When the forces ramp up on straights (to anywhere from 150 to 200%), you get a quick drop as soon as you start turning in. That drop in force feels a little notchy to me when the wheel releases and the gain goes from 150%+ down to 80% in a split second. And for that split second it kind of feels like clipping (even though it isn't). But the quick change/drop makes the wheel feel numb for a fraction of a second.

With the fixed gain, I feel there's more variance in wheel weight between cars, which, coupled with the individual handling characteristics, gives them their own unique feel. IDK... if you try it, let me know what you think. It's nice, and I'll probably use it on occasion. But fixed gain is going to remain my default.
I don't seem to get that quick drop myself (when just on auto I do though) like you said it will drop quite a lot in one go, but when I'm on Dynamic I can actually see it going down or up in gradual percentages and it feels really smooth.

Only problem with the app is that you have to click Dynamic every time you change cars.

GrimeyDog
09-02-2017, 21:01
:cool:

GrimeyDog
09-02-2017, 21:04
:cool:

rosko
09-02-2017, 21:06
Dynamic doesn't seem realistic to me (assume you are talking AC)as it just seems to kill the dynamics & at times just feels strange, like if you try to save a slide.

rosko
09-02-2017, 21:10
http://www.isrtv.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/CSPV3i_02.jpg

Any info on what we are seeing here?? is that hydraulic brake? new version of csl?

GrimeyDog
09-02-2017, 21:40
Any info on what we are seeing here?? is that hydraulic brake? new version of csl?

Inverted V3 pedals!!! Fanatec Never said anything about them!!! They are in Stock Now!!! im going to check My Acct for a shipping date tomorrow...order is paid for but still processing... because their in Stock shipping should be reasonably Quick.

I checked their web page yesterday and not a word about these New Pedals!!! I only saw them because I got a Email Announcing them...Hmmm seems like Fanatec is playing the hush game Now days...I am going to really keep a eye out for a DD wheel!!! They probably wont announce it until its in stock...Fanatec said a while ago that they would Not announce any more products until they were in stock because when things get delayed they get bashed really hard...I'm Glad i caught this before it sold out.

morpwr
09-02-2017, 22:12
:cool:

http://www.isrtv.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/CSPV3i_10.jpg

Nice. That was one of my main concerns buying pedals. If I couldn't run them inverted I didn't want them. I hate floor mounted pedals with a passion!! To me it feels totally unnatural. Even in real cars we build I try to avoid them unless there is no other option. Unfortunately in a lot of real old cars there just isn't room to mount them any other way. But those look really nice.

GrimeyDog
09-02-2017, 22:14
My wife gets it!!! My wife actually gets it!!!
Me--> Low in Car masters Make No Sense...

Her--> So using Low in car masters would be like having Head phones that have a volume control on them so you turn down the volume on your Ipod very Low and turn the volume up on the head phones.

Me--> yes:rolleyes:

Her--> But that's not going to sound Good:confused:

Me---> :disillusionment: Oooh crap you get it:applouse:

Her--> Why wouldn't i get it:confused:

Me---> Sigh...its a long story and you'd have to do a lot of reading to understand:p

morpwr
09-02-2017, 22:15
Dynamic doesn't seem realistic to me (assume you are talking AC)as it just seems to kill the dynamics & at times just feels strange, like if you try to save a slide.

I saw on the link to the app there may be an issue with that part. I didn't really get to read the whole thing but a couple guys where mentioning something about that. So maybe an issue...

poirqc
09-02-2017, 23:02
My wife gets it!!! My wife actually gets it!!!
Me--> Low in Car masters Make No Sense...

Her--> So using Low in car masters would be like having Head phones that have a volume control on them so you turn down the volume on your Ipod very Low and turn the volume up on the head phones.

Me--> yes:rolleyes:

Her--> But that's not going to sound Good:confused:

Me---> :disillusionment: Oooh crap you get it:applouse:

Her--> Why wouldn't i get it:confused:

Me---> Sigh...its a long story and you'd have to do a lot of reading to understand:p

You really found a special one if you can talk FFB with her! ;)

I mean, i can't even talk FFB to myself anymore! :D

Haiden
09-02-2017, 23:40
I don't seem to get that quick drop myself (when just on auto I do though) like you said it will drop quite a lot in one go, but when I'm on Dynamic I can actually see it going down or up in gradual percentages and it feels really smooth.

Only problem with the app is that you have to click Dynamic every time you change cars.

I believe you can change the default in the .ini file. IIRC the default was Auto, but I set mine to manual in the .ini, because I got tired of changing it on new cars. Pretty sure there was a setting for Dynamic, Strong, or Normal, too. Check it out. Might save you some hassle.

That's weird. I could definitely feel, but not in all cars. I didn't really notice it until I tried a few more cars. I don't remember feeling it in the Ferrari 458 GT2, which was one of the first cars I tried.


Dynamic doesn't seem realistic to me (assume you are talking AC)as it just seems to kill the dynamics & at times just feels strange, like if you try to save a slide.

For me, the dynamics didn't seem to suffer. It just made each car feel a little too similar. IDK...maybe that's what you mean. But I wasn't having trouble feeling the grip/slip levels. In fact, I actually liked the tighter wheel and more consistent weight throughout the track. The downside for me, though, was that that's the very thing that made the cars all feel too similar. :confused:

Haiden
09-02-2017, 23:44
Inverted V3 pedals!!! Fanatec Never said anything about them!!! They are in Stock Now!!! im going to check My Acct for a shipping date tomorrow...order is paid for but still processing... because their in Stock shipping should be reasonably Quick.

I checked their web page yesterday and not a word about these New Pedals!!! I only saw them because I got a Email Announcing them...Hmmm seems like Fanatec is playing the hush game Now days...I am going to really keep a eye out for a DD wheel!!! They probably wont announce it until its in stock...Fanatec said a while ago that they would Not announce any more products until they were in stock because when things get delayed they get bashed really hard...I'm Glad i caught this before it sold out.

You need to make sure you're on the mailing list. There was an email announcement early this morning. I read the first part of the subject line... "Fanatec introduces..." and my heart skipped a beat, because I thought it was the DD wheel. Damn. :hopelessness:

GrimeyDog
10-02-2017, 00:01
You need to make sure you're on the mailing list. There was an email announcement early this morning. I read the first part of the subject line... "Fanatec introduces..." and my heart skipped a beat, because I thought it was the DD wheel. Damn. :hopelessness:

Yup im on their mailing list or wouldn't have checked the forum today...too busy digging out from this Snow storm that hit NY:mad:

I ordered Mine already:o are you going to get them??? i will prob End up selling My V1 pedals Cheap to get rid of them i need to make space and keep these V3 pedals for a back up set.

Haiden
10-02-2017, 00:29
Yup im on their mailing list or wouldn't have checked the forum today...too busy digging out from this Snow storm that hit NY:mad:

I ordered Mine already:o are you going to get them??? i will prob End up selling My V1 pedals Cheap to get rid of them i need to make space and keep these V3 pedals for a back up set.

No. I'm gonna hold off on pedals. I've got other upgrade plans for this year--80/20 rig and triples screen first (and the DD is an immediate purchase whenever it comes out). Then I'll tackle pedals, but right now I'm sold on the Heusinkvelds. The inverted V3s are nice, but they are just V3s. No differnce when you look at the comparison chart. If they had been available when I got my V3s, I would have went with the inverted ones, but...oh well. If, for some reason I back off the Heusinkvelds, I'll be looking at these and the PT-1s.

BigDad
10-02-2017, 01:47
:cool:

Nice . Fanatec website is down???
I cant even find out how much ?
Is there a inversion kit to invert your v3's?

wizzer111
10-02-2017, 05:39
Their $800 australian dollars and no kit to invert old v3s

BigDad
10-02-2017, 07:04
Their $800 australian dollars and no kit to invert old v3s

CSW v2's reduced to $829, still going get cheaper when DD arrives.

konnos
10-02-2017, 08:44
Her--> So using Low in car masters would be like having Head phones that have a volume control on them so you turn down the volume on your Ipod very Low and turn the volume up on the head phones.p

Grimey, when you have higher gain, you have a higher amplification factor, and thus any noise will be amplified more. But this applied to audio equipment that produce electrical waves (I hope I didn't get that wrong in the tranlation). The FFB system does not produce electricity etc, it's only an equation and thus should not "benefit" from a low initial gain and then big amplification. It's all the same.

morpwr
10-02-2017, 10:38
I believe you can change the default in the .ini file. IIRC the default was Auto, but I set mine to manual in the .ini, because I got tired of changing it on new cars. Pretty sure there was a setting for Dynamic, Strong, or Normal, too. Check it out. Might save you some hassle.

That's weird. I could definitely feel, but not in all cars. I didn't really notice it until I tried a few more cars. I don't remember feeling it in the Ferrari 458 GT2, which was one of the first cars I tried.



For me, the dynamics didn't seem to suffer. It just made each car feel a little too similar. IDK...maybe that's what you mean. But I wasn't having trouble feeling the grip/slip levels. In fact, I actually liked the tighter wheel and more consistent weight throughout the track. The downside for me, though, was that that's the very thing that made the cars all feel too similar. :confused:

I played around with it some more last night. I don't know it just feels odd to me like the swings are too big. The theory is good but maybe needs a little tweaking? For now ill just stick with the fixed setting.

morpwr
10-02-2017, 10:41
You need to make sure you're on the mailing list. There was an email announcement early this morning. I read the first part of the subject line... "Fanatec introduces..." and my heart skipped a beat, because I thought it was the DD wheel. Damn. :hopelessness:

Lol the let down....maybe soon by the sounds of it though

morpwr
10-02-2017, 10:43
Yup im on their mailing list or wouldn't have checked the forum today...too busy digging out from this Snow storm that hit NY:mad:

I ordered Mine already:o are you going to get them??? i will prob End up selling My V1 pedals Cheap to get rid of them i need to make space and keep these V3 pedals for a back up set.

Lucky for me it missed us. We were supposed to get it but it shifted east and now its yours. I got an inch of snow here.:D

morpwr
10-02-2017, 10:55
Yup im on their mailing list or wouldn't have checked the forum today...too busy digging out from this Snow storm that hit NY:mad:

I ordered Mine already:o are you going to get them??? i will prob End up selling My V1 pedals Cheap to get rid of them i need to make space and keep these V3 pedals for a back up set.

I was in the basement the other day and found my first wheel still in its box. Forgot I even had it. A g25 that got replaced by a g27. That was the start of all this along with the gran turismo games.

GrimeyDog
10-02-2017, 12:02
You really found a special one if you can talk FFB with her! ;)

I mean, i can't even talk FFB to myself anymore! :D

My wife said what ever it takes she trying to stay Married...LOL

rosko
10-02-2017, 12:51
I believe you can change the default in the .ini file. IIRC the default was Auto, but I set mine to manual in the .ini, because I got tired of changing it on new cars. Pretty sure there was a setting for Dynamic, Strong, or Normal, too. Check it out. Might save you some hassle.

That's weird. I could definitely feel, but not in all cars. I didn't really notice it until I tried a few more cars. I don't remember feeling it in the Ferrari 458 GT2, which was one of the first cars I tried.



For me, the dynamics didn't seem to suffer. It just made each car feel a little too similar. IDK...maybe that's what you mean. But I wasn't having trouble feeling the grip/slip levels. In fact, I actually liked the tighter wheel and more consistent weight throughout the track. The downside for me, though, was that that's the very thing that made the cars all feel too similar. :confused:

Well if it turns up the FFB when receiving lower end signal that's a reduction in dynamics.

Haiden
10-02-2017, 14:44
Well if it turns up the FFB when receiving lower end signal that's a reduction in dynamics.

That mostly only happens on the straights. Which in those cases actually enhances the low end forces and tightens up the wheel. I'm not saying it doesn't cause a reduction in dynamic range, just that I never really felt it, and my reasons for going back to a fixed gain weren't related to that. But, I didn't really spend a whole lot of time with it, definitely not enough to comment on the difference in range.

Haiden
11-02-2017, 14:14
So it turns out, there is no force setting in the Fanatec driver control panel. The Strength Dampening scale in that panel is just a fine tuning extension of the @wheel DPR setting. The only way to adjust force strength is through the @wheel FOR setting.

I did stumble across this little tid-bid in the manual about the Xb1 force feedback system, though.


Force (pushes the wheel into a special direction), spring (pulls the wheel towards the center) and damper (creates friction). Not every game uses all types of effects and some games even use only one type to create all different feelings. ... Force, spring and damper modifiers cannot be used on Xbox One since those separated FFB signals are not used in the XBO force feedback system.

That might explain the difference in feel, between titles on Xb1 vs PC, and probably PS4, as well, since no mention was made of PS4 being an exception.

morpwr
11-02-2017, 14:31
So it turns out, there is no force setting in the Fanatec driver control panel. The Strength Dampening scale in that panel is just a fine tuning extension of the @wheel DPR setting. The only way to adjust force strength is through the @wheel FOR setting.

I did stumble across this little tid-bid in the manual about the Xb1 force feedback system, though.



That might explain the difference in feel, between titles on Xb1 vs PC, and probably PS4, as well, since no mention was made of PS4 being an exception.
Hey did you see on sim racing paddock fanatec confirmed a dd wheel for 2017?:D I guess there is a video there. Happy days for us sim racers the first commercial dd wheel.

gotdirt410sprintcar
11-02-2017, 20:39
How do I put my settings from pcars Oscarolim site link on my name or when I post you see it thanks. Happy Friday.

CASH ME OUTSIDE USING YOUR WIFI!!!!

BigDad
12-02-2017, 10:02
How do I put my settings from pcars Oscarolim site link on my name or when I post you see it thanks. Happy Friday.

CASH ME OUTSIDE USING YOUR WIFI!!!!

Top right corner / control panel then middle left / my settings / edit signature . Its Sunday !
My password is your name !

Python-Five
12-02-2017, 11:22
I know that you get used to what you start out with. That is why I ask soo much, because I haven't really started yet. I will get in the RUF GT3 at W.Glen and do some driving. Heavy works for me at Spa but I fully realize that it could not be the case on other tracks.

I am having a go with the RUF GT3 at Watkins Glen. Is WG a bumpy track or is the RUF sensitive to bumps with the Low Vertical Load settings? It is hard work, even at Wheel FF-75...

poirqc
12-02-2017, 12:04
I am having a go with the RUF GT3 at Watkins Glen. Is WG a bumpy track or is the RUF sensitive to bumps with the Low Vertical Load settings? It is hard work, even at Wheel FF-75...

It's a really bumpy one.

GrimeyDog
12-02-2017, 18:57
I am having a go with the RUF GT3 at Watkins Glen. Is WG a bumpy track or is the RUF sensitive to bumps with the Low Vertical Load settings? It is hard work, even at Wheel FF-75...


It's a really bumpy one.

Thats why i always Tweek Road Feel there!!!
The Ruff handles the Bumps the same as every other Car but because the engine us in the Rear the front likes to Skip and Bounce around More... IMO its the Hardest car in GT3 class to be Fast with... its slower than everything except the Ginetta in a Straight Line but can Turn Corners the best in Class... Thats its Only Strength Learn Hiw to use it and you can Be fast with anything

Python-Five
12-02-2017, 19:16
Thats why i always Tweek Road Feel there!!!
The Ruff handles the Bumps the same as every other Car but because the engine us in the Rear the front likes to Skip and Bounce around More... IMO its the Hardest car in GT3 class to be Fast with... its slower than everything except the Ginetta in a Straight Line but can Turn Corners the best in Class... Thats its Only Strength Learn Hiw to use it and you can Be fast with anything

1:47 in the Aston Martin GT3. 1:48 in the RUF GT3... Practice makes perfect, right?

Gamer82678
12-02-2017, 20:29
Just wanna chime in to say ......

Love You Guys Here ! :cool:

Latest preferred settings utilizing T300 Servo Base on PS4 at this link within forum: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35147-Baseline-Wheel-FFB-Values-Google-Sheet-amp-FCM-Universal&p=1323652&viewfull=1#post1323652

Oh yeah ! They may or may not work for you but, for me it's sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat ! :cool:

Dynamic without overdriving T300 Servo Base ! :cool:

Fan does not kick in at all with long time of use ! :cool:

Yeah boyiee ! :cool:

TurismoSlayer
13-02-2017, 00:23
GrimeyDog, I'm using your settings and I wanted to say thanks. I just picked up the game a few weeks ago and while trying to apply what I've learned from from everyone here on my own I decided to give yours a shot. Not to discredit anyone else who put the time and effort in, I found yours work best for me. Thanks again.

GrimeyDog
13-02-2017, 01:32
CSW v2 i Now use GM FFB 100 and 50 on wheel FFB!!! I was using on wheel 75 then 65 and Now i use 50 and its Sweeter than Bear Meat!!! the FFB Feels Sooo Much more detailed with on wheel 50 FFB than ever before!!! All of the subtle FFB is there with No loss of Dynamic Range... Funny thing is if i use GM FFB 50 and on wheel FFB 100 the FFB feels Exactly the Same!!! No Loss of Dynamic Range....as a Matter of Fact with GM FFB 100 and on wheel FFB 50 the Subtle FFB forces are Clearer and More Defined than ever!!! At Higher FFB Settings the Stronger Forces tend to Drown out the Lesser More Subtle FFB Feel

TurismoSlayer
13-02-2017, 02:23
How would that relate to the T300RS?

GrimeyDog
13-02-2017, 02:54
How would that relate to the T300RS?


GM FFB 100 works only with Fanatec wheels because they have on wheel FFB Level control which lets me set the Final at the Wheel FFB strength through the wheel... But still works same for T300 because you use the Game Master FFB to set the at the Wheel FFB strength that feels best for you...In My case i went from 75 to 65 and Now use 50 and for Me it feels best of all because the Subtle FFB forces dont get drowned out by the stronger FFB forces... It takes some time but you will know when you hit your GM FFB sweet spot.

Game Master FFB has Nothing to do with the Global FFB settings it only sets the Final at the wheel FFB power Level

Haiden
13-02-2017, 11:33
How would that relate to the T300RS?


GM FFB 100 works only with Fanatec wheels because they have on wheel FFB Level control which lets me set the Final at the Wheel FFB strength through the wheel... But still works same for T300 because you use the Game Master FFB to set the at the Wheel FFB strength that feels best for you...In My case i went from 75 to 65 and Now use 50 and for Me it feels best of all because the Subtle FFB forces dont get drowned out by the stronger FFB forces... It takes some time but you will know when you hit your GM FFB sweet spot.

Game Master FFB has Nothing to do with the Global FFB settings it only sets the Final at the wheel FFB power Level

Given the fact that Fanatec doesn't have a driver control panel setting on PC to attenuate external force, like other wheels, and instead uses the @wheel setting, I can only assume that the GM FF in PCars was intended for console users to attenuate their force levels. You can also use SG, but when the game released, there was no SG scale, so, at least initially, the intention must have been for console users to use FF. Another thing that supports this theory, is the fact that PCars has TF, in-car TF, and then also FF. In most PC sims, there are only two forces scales, the master gain (TF) and then the in-car gain (in-car TF). There is no third scale (FF) in any PC sim I've tried, mostly likely because that's done through the external driver control panel. I think SMS realized this and added FF for console users, but, coupled with the lack of official documentation, things then got really confusing because most of the community documentation was written by PC players that had a DCP and didn't need to adjust FF. For them, the FF=100 rule does apply, because they can attenuate externally. For console players, you have to decide whether to use FF or SG, the latter of which was added later through a patch, no doubt to address the issue of losing dynamic range and increasing deadzone when lowering FF. However, like Grimey, I feel no evidence of this loss range when I lower @wheel force or FF. Yes, lowering FF does seems to increase the deadzone, but you can compensate for that by increases DRR. I choose to lower FF in-game, instead of @wheel, because I don't feel like making separate wheel profiles for PCars vs my other sims. But even with FF=75, I'm still currently running DRR=0. I may increase that to 0.2 or 0.3 later, but for now, it feels fine. And makes PCars feel a little closer to the other sims I play and less like the oddball.

Also, another thing that supports the FF for console attenuation is the fact that it's outside of the FF chain, just like an external driver control panel would be.

Note: Ignore the settings in my sig-link. They haven't been updated.

GrimeyDog
14-02-2017, 02:27
Now that im used to the Lower FFB On wheel FFB 50 is the Best thing since sliced Bread!!! Im Much More Consistent and can Run My Fastest lap times at Race Pace Multiple Laps Back to Back... I hit 1:06.xxx Watkins short 8 laps Straight!!! 1:22.xxx at Laguna Seca 5 laps...1:57.5xx: Nuberg GP 6 laps!!!

Once i got used to the lighter wheel the Subtle FFB feel is Much better and its showing in Lap times and Consistency:yes:
Higher FFB level Really Mask alot of the Subtle FFB feel... Its Really hard to Notice it until you get used to Lower GM FFB or with Fanatec wheels Lower on wheel FFB settings... I am Sure that No Dynamic Range is Lost!!! Infact its the Oppisite I Gained FFB Dynamic Range with More Subtle FFB feel:yes:


Edit: New Rule of thumb is if while Turning under heavy weight transfer if i have to use any sholder/Upper Body movements that cause Me to have to Shift or Lift My Back from the Back of My Racing Seat then the FFB/Wheel weight is too Much.... As i watch Race car Drivers they Never Lift or Shift their Sholders from the back of the Racing Seat which indicates that the wheel is Not hard to turn.

Rogue787
14-02-2017, 04:44
can anyone point me to global settings for anyone that has done the T500RS 85 watt motor upgrade, thats what i have.

GrimeyDog
14-02-2017, 10:31
can anyone point me to global settings for anyone that has done the T500RS 85 watt motor upgrade, thats what i have.

You can Down load My PDF its posted on the Front Page 3/4ths down the page...

if you just want Global Settings these Global settings will Avoid Clipping No matter where you have the in Car Masters!!! Start with in Car Masters 100 and + or - until the car Feels right to you.

TF 75
RAG 1.00/100
RAB 0.8
RAC 75
SG 1.0 you should Never Have to reduce this setting as it will Reduce FFB Dynamic Range.

Scoops 0 or 68/24 but this is purely a matter of taste....
all other settings DRR,DRF, PWMS etc must be set according to your wheel/Personal Taste.

Ignore the old out dated Myth GM FFB 100 rule!!! Start with GM FFB 75 and + or - until the at the wheel FFB strength feels Good to you

morpwr
14-02-2017, 11:08
Now that im used to the Lower FFB On wheel FFB 50 is the Best thing since sliced Bread!!! Im Much More Consistent and can Run My Fastest lap times at Race Pace Multiple Laps Back to Back... I hit 1:06.xxx Watkins short 8 laps Straight!!! 1:22.xxx at Laguna Seca 5 laps...1:57.5xx: Nuberg GP 6 laps!!!

Once i got used to the lighter wheel the Subtle FFB feel is Much better and its showing in Lap times and Consistency:yes:
Higher FFB level Really Mask alot of the Subtle FFB feel... Its Really hard to Notice it until you get used to Lower GM FFB or with Fanatec wheels Lower on wheel FFB settings... I am Sure that No Dynamic Range is Lost!!! Infact its the Oppisite I Gained FFB Dynamic Range with More Subtle FFB feel:yes:


Edit: New Rule of thumb is if while Turning under heavy weight transfer if i have to use any sholder/Upper Body movements that cause Me to have to Shift or Lift My Back from the Back of My Racing Seat then the FFB/Wheel weight is too Much.... As i watch Race car Drivers they Never Lift or Shift their Sholders from the back of the Racing Seat which indicates that the wheel is Not hard to turn.

Yeah that would be way to heavy to drive lap after lap in real life. But remember seating position is important too. If you are too close/far away too high/low you will be using the wrong muscles when turning the wheel. But if you look at nascar those guys can easily turn the wheel with one hand at a stand still. I just found the article talking about f1 taking about 30 ftlbs of force to turn the wheel. Which if you split that between 2 arms isn't overly heavy. But that would be a workout coupled with the high g forces and lots of laps. Same goes for the grip on the wheel. If you need a death grip on it its too heavy. You lose subtle feeling in your hands if you have to grip the wheel really tight. Youll start to miss the subtle twitches. Remember they are strapped in a 5 or 6 point harness so its going to be difficult or next to impossible to move off the seat much. If something is out of arms reach you aren't stretching for it.lol But I think many still think the wheel should be a lot heavier then it needs to be.

GrimeyDog
14-02-2017, 13:34
Yeah that would be way to heavy to drive lap after lap in real life. But remember seating position is important too. If you are too close/far away too high/low you will be using the wrong muscles when turning the wheel. But if you look at nascar those guys can easily turn the wheel with one hand at a stand still. I just found the article talking about f1 taking about 30 ftlbs of force to turn the wheel. Which if you split that between 2 arms isn't overly heavy. But that would be a workout coupled with the high g forces and lots of laps. Same goes for the grip on the wheel. If you need a death grip on it its too heavy. You lose subtle feeling in your hands if you have to grip the wheel really tight. Youll start to miss the subtle twitches. Remember they are strapped in a 5 or 6 point harness so its going to be difficult or next to impossible to move off the seat much. If something is out of arms reach you aren't stretching for it.lol But I think many still think the wheel should be a lot heavier then it needs to be.


Agree... Its seems that Most of the people that Really Really Like Heavy FFB to start with are the ones on Console... I say this because Pcars was the First Game on Console with Detailed Really Strong FFB.... if you have only been Racing on Conole When you first experience the Strong Detailed FFB Pcars has Its Mind Blowing!!! Its Everything you wished or thought FFB should Feel like...Coming from console Once we get over the Shock and Aaawe of how Detailed and Strong Console FFB could be we learn that Good FFB is Not about just FFB strength but its about a Balance of FFB power and Fidelity.

Im Still using My same TF/RAC 75 i just been weening My self off overly strong FFB/Wheel weight and reducing on wheel FFB from 75, 65, 60 and Now i use on Wheel FFB 50:yes: On wheel FFB 50 is the Sweet Spot... Im discovering Subtle FFB feel that was being almost totally Drowned out at Higher on Wheel FFB settings by the Stronger FFB forces... No Need to Further Reduce it.

Note Fanatec Has on the wheel FFB control so i use GM FFB 100 and On Wheel FFB 50:yes:.... I would suspect that for TM wheels the GM FFB will have the same Effect... if set too High it will Drown out and Mask many subtle FFB forces... I suggest starting at 75 then + or - until it feels right.

IMO the GM FFB 100 rule is 100% Bogus!!! GM FFB Should be used to set the at the wheel Strength that you Like because it Gives the Best Feel!!!

If it Feels Good it is Good No Matter what the FFB Tools say about what or where the wheel is Most Linear.... I Really Question are the Tools Accurate??? I have tried them and Never came up with anything close to thr Natural Feel that i Got just Trusting What My Hands Feel when Tweeking the FFB.

GrimeyDog
14-02-2017, 13:47
:eagerness: Im Going to Name My Next tweek PDF Sliced Bread. LOL

Haiden
14-02-2017, 13:51
Agree... Its seems that Most of the people that Really Really Like Heavy FFB to start with are the ones on Console... I say this because Pcars was the First Game on Console with Detailed Really Strong FFB.... if you have only been Racing on Conole When you first experience the Strong Detailed FFB Pcars has Its Mind Blowing!!! Its Everything you wished or thought FFB should Feel like...Coming from console Once we get over the Shock and Aaawe of how Detailed and Strong Console FFB could be we learn that Good FFB is Not about just FFB strength but its about a Balance of FFB power and Fidelity.

Im Still using My same TF/RAC 75 i just been weening My self off overly strong FFB/Wheel weight and reducing on wheel FFB from 75, 65, 60 and Now i use on Wheel FFB 50:yes: On wheel FFB 50 is the Sweet Spot... Im discovering Subtle FFB feel that was being almost totally Drowned out at Higher on Wheel FFB settings by the Stronger FFB forces... No Need to Further Reduce it.

Note Fanatec Has on the wheel FFB control so i use GM FFB 100 and On Wheel FFB 50:yes:.... I would suspect that for TM wheels the GM FFB will have the same Effect... if set too High it will Drown out and Mask many subtle FFB forces... I suggest starting at 75 then + or - until it feels right.

IMO the GM FFB 100 rule is 100% Bogus!!! GM FFB Should be used to set the at the wheel Strength that you Like because it Gives the Best Feel!!!

If it Feels Good it is Good No Matter what the FFB Tools say about what or where the wheel is Most Linear.... I Really Question are the Tools Accurate??? I have tried them and Never came up with anything close to thr Natural Feel that i Got just Trusting What My Hands Feel when Tweeking the FFB.

I think the tool were good to help see what was happening to the curve, but from there, you have to decide what feels right to you. But the accuracy of the tool depends on the developer. And what bothers me about the FCM is that it requires Fanatec users to run the test in Wheelcheck and then import the results. But Wheelcheck was made for tuning iRacing FFB, at least that's my understanding. iRacing has a very different FFB system than PCars. And not everything can be ported from one platform to the next equally. For example, you can use a standard driver for your Logitech mouse and it will work. But it functions better with a Logitech driver. Was Wheelcheck data meant to be used for PCars? IDK...But that's a question makes me wonder. Even the deadzone recommendations from Wheelcheck don't transfer from title to title.

GrimeyDog
14-02-2017, 14:19
I think the tool were good to help see what was happening to the curve, but from there, you have to decide what feels right to you. But the accuracy of the tool depends on the developer. And what bothers me about the FCM is that it requires Fanatec users to run the test in Wheelcheck and then import the results. But Wheelcheck was made for tuning iRacing FFB, at least that's my understanding. iRacing has a very different FFB system than PCars. And not everything can be ported from one platform to the next equally. For example, you can use a standard driver for your Logitech mouse and it will work. But it functions better with a Logitech driver. Was Wheelcheck data meant to be used for PCars? IDK...But that's a question makes me wonder. Even the deadzone recommendations from Wheelcheck don't transfer from title to title.

Exactly...Agree 100%
Different games Have Diff power output EX: Pcars May put out 0.1 at Neutral or Dead Zone area... Which makes the DZ feel huge... IRacing May put out 0.5, AC may put out 1.0 so all the readings will be off... Even though the diffs seem small they are actually Huge considering the small range of motion it affects.
The more power the game puts out at DZ/Neutral the Smaller the DZ feels.

IMO one tool can Not be used to tweek wheels for all Games due to these inconsistencies or unknown factors as far as game FFB power level outputs.

If there was a tool Made specifically for Pcars1 then 99% chance you could get it to work with reasonable accuracy on Pcars 2 because altnough SMS may change the Formula a bit they will follow the same Basic FFB power Blue print...this is Highly unlikely that Pcars, IRacing and AC all have the same Basic FFB power Blue print.

Python-Five
14-02-2017, 20:35
You can Down load My PDF its posted on the Front Page 3/4ths down the page...

if you just want Global Settings these Global settings will Avoid Clipping No matter where you have the in Car Masters!!! Start with in Car Masters 100 and + or - until the car Feels right to you.

TF 75
RAG 1.00/100
RAB 0.8
RAC 75
SG 1.0 you should Never Have to reduce this setting as it will Reduce FFB Dynamic Range.

Scoops 0 or 68/24 but this is purely a matter of taste....
all other settings DRR,DRF, PWMS etc must be set according to your wheel/Personal Taste.

I moved my settings to the above. Scoops 0. I still favor the low vertical Load settings over the Fy+SopLateral settings. @wheel FF 60. Been driving the RUF GT3 at the Glen and love it. Saw a video on YT: laptime in the RUF at 1:42. I am running 1:46 with stock car setup. Do not know if a good setup gives me 4 seconds but he... I am having soo much fun ;-)

GrimeyDog
14-02-2017, 20:40
I moved my settings to the above. Scoops 0. I still favor the low vertical Load settings over the Fy+SopLateral settings. @wheel FF 60. Been driving the RUF GT3 at the Glen and love it. Saw a video on YT: laptime in the RUF at 1:42. I am running 1:46 with stock car setup. Do not know if a good setup gives me 4 seconds but he... I am having soo much fun ;-)

with the Ruf I can Run 1:42.xxx on the Glen GP with stock set up when im in the Zone...I Run 1:43.xxx consistently...set ups help but its mainly about knowing the car and track.

Python-Five
14-02-2017, 20:46
I can Run 1:42.xxx on the Glen GP with stock set up when im in the Zone...I Run 1:43.xxx consistently...set ups help but its mainly about knowing the car and track.

I need to practice more then ;-)

gotdirt410sprintcar
14-02-2017, 21:03
I run about the same lap times in that car there myself stock, Boy i had a start of a setup at spa in the Ruf but i fogot too save it throttle turn it threw the corners it was a balance start But. I think Smokey came over that effs everything up pushes buttons on the controler touching things he dont know about. Then he starts saying howbow dat then i got to kick him out then fall asleep done war me out lol.

GrimeyDog
14-02-2017, 23:53
it only took almost 2yrs but persistence paid off!!! Finally FFB Nirvana!!!

TF/RAC 75 GM FFB 100 and on wheel FFB 50!!!Holy crap I'm really just Blown away!!!
IMO I am 100% sure that all the signal compression and loss of Dynamic range stuff is Either Rubbish or just totally settings related because I lowered on wheel FFB to 50 and I'm getting more FFB feel than ever!!!....FFB is feeling sooo good...I even had to check my settings to make sure i didn't load up that other dudes settings by mistake:p...LOL...Nope All good for me TF/RAC 75 is the final frontier:victorious:

I'm Mad its valentines day...i wanna race:mad:...LOL

I have 1 more thing i thought to test!!! if it reacts and feels like i think it will feel FFB mystery 100% OVER!!!

Edit: I ran My Final Test with TF/RAC 75
all in car settings are My Norm in car Masters 100

What i did was Set TF 100 and RAC 50 and as i expected FFB was Good although it was Lighter than Normal...The FFB Graph line stayed Middle to 3/4ths the Graph Box Exept when Hitting Hard Curbs but there was No FFB Line Flat Spotting or Clipping.

Next I Set TF 50 RAC 100 and as Expected the FFB was Lighter than Normal but Stronger than when tested with TF 100 ...the FFB Graph Line was Much Higher in the Graph Box than with TF 50 or my Norm TF 75 and Showed some Flat Spotting when under Heavy Load or Hitting High Curbs.

In Both test case scenarios the FFB was Good but was lacking the Power and Detail of My Normal FFB settings...In both Cases i do Not think the Lack of Feel was due to Loss of Dynamic Range as i did feel the Full Range of Forces that i Normally Feel just Not as Clear or as Strong because the settings were out of balance.

End of test Conclusion confirms that RAC sets the FFB effects power Level and if set High that it can an will Cause FFB Graph line Flat Spotting and Clipping... TF is Not the main Cause of Clipping but it can influence Clipping to happen when RAC is set too High... Therefore RAC Must be set to Leave room for expansion of FFB forces... My Recommendation would be set RAC No Higher than 75--->80 .... I recommend Setting TF and RAC to the same #Value for best balance of FFB forces and Road Feel... Note RAC will Cut/Clip TF signals that are Higher than its set Value anyway:p...Use GM FFB to adjust at the wheel FFB strength to taste... GM FFB 100 Only if you use a Fanate wheel and use on wheel FFB to set strength that feels best to you.

Edit: Pcars FFB System is Full of Redundant Settings:yes:

Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz & SOP set the Level/Volume of the Different FFB Effects that you Feel--->In Car Masters Sets the Level/Volume that those Forces are Blended together as 1 Group of FFB Forces before--->TF = Global Spindle Master Scale it adjust other Final Output Level of the In Car Masters and Sends it to the Relative Adjust system.... Note this Means that No matter where you have in Car Masters set to it Really Has No Effect as far as Clipping is Concerned... Low Masters will Give Less Car Road Feel and High Masters will Give More Car/Road Feel.

RAG sets the Total power of the FFB system..1.0/100= 100% FFB System Power.....RAG will allow FFB Forces to operate at any Value within its set Limit.... This Setting Need Not be Set Higher than 1.0/100

RAB Bleeds off FFB power to Create Changes in wheel weight Creating FFB Effects Feel.

RAC sets the Limit/Volume of FFB Effects.... RAG Must be set Lower than RAG!!! Its should be set Low enough to account for FFB Spikes that are Caused By Weight transfer, Curbs etc.... Remember the Fan theory Just because you turn off the power to a Fan the Fan Blades will Keep spinning until the Residual power Dissipates... The FFB system is the same way... Just because you Cut/Limit the FFB power at EX: 85 FFB Spikes can and will Keep Rising until the residual FFB power Dissipates... Therefore if your getting FFB Graph Line Flat spotting/Clipping Reduce the RAC until the Spike Stop at 95--->98% Of Box FFB Graph Box Volume... You must leave a little room to Compensate for Diff cars that may put out More FFB.

GM FFB is only to set the final at the wheel FFB strength....IMO GM FFB 100% Rule is False!!! Fanatec wheels because they have on wheel FFB Level/Volume control is the only wheel that 100% GM FFB Can or Should be used... Fanatec wheels use the on Wheel FFB Level/Volume Control to set the on wheel FFB strength that feels best for you.

I'm Not Looking to Debate Opinions... No Need for that... There are only settings to test...Testing it for your self is the only way to prove what i say to be True or False...I welcome all Comments based on Test results.

This FFB tweeking Method can be used and.easily adjusted to any wheel.

Loss of Dynamic Range is Caused Directly and Only By Low in Car Masters... You are Killing tbe Very FFB you want to Feel at the Source.

Again I welcome all Comments based on Test Results.


IMO this whole Signal Compression/Loss of Dynamic Range thing is 100% False... There is No Loss of Dynamic Range other than using Low in Car Masters.... That's like Listening to your Ipod at a Low Volume that you can Barely Hear... Every Note and word of the Song is still there you just have the Volume sooo Low you cant Hear and Discern properly whats actually playing... The FFB is the same way when using Low in Car Master:yes:

Also With Older wheels there is No Loss of Dynamic Range...Look at it like this... just because some one is Color Blind and cant See or Discern the Diff between Red and Green Does Not mean that the Colors are Not there... they are still there they just cant be seen by a color blind person... Older wheels are the same the Full Dynamic Range is there but the wheel may Not have New enough Tec to pick up on such a broad range of FFB frequencies that are Now being programmed into Games

GrimeyDog
16-02-2017, 01:25
My Pedals arrived today and all i can say is Excellent and Superb build Quality!!! IMO I know they are supposed to be the same as My Regular V3 pedals but I have noticed a few differences that set the V3i pedals a step ahead of the Regular V3 pedals Build Quality!!! the larger pedal spacing and it seems that Each pedal now has a separate Ground wire( see Pic) all 3 ground wires ground at pedal Brain...They Mounted right into My RS1 with No Problem...You just have to take off the Back of the Clamp that Holds the gas Pedal to the rear bar.. to access the rear mounting Screw hole to drop the screw in...Very simple its the same 2 screws that you would take out to Change the Gas pedal spring.

I Love that the Clutch is inverted because when not using the clutch it provides a Nice space to just rest your foot under.

Very well done... Great Job Fanatec

When i first Hooked the pedals up everything but the hand brake worked...Don't Panic!!! i simply just Reflashed the Pedal FW and everything including hand brake works as it should\:D/

Edit: almost forgot to mention with the Pedal spacing the New Longer Clutch and Clutch position feels spot on!!!...I'm sure i will even get things adjusted better as i go along but as it is right out of the Box its a Great Pedals set worth EVERY Penny even though i already have a Regular set of V3 pedals.

I don't understand the whats, why or what Magic happened yet but i have much more leg room in My Rig now:o maybe because of the diff pedal angles:confused:

yeah yeah i know i should use my air compressor to blow the rig off:rolleyes:...LOL...Im workin on it...LOL I wanted to turn a few laps with the pedals to see how they feel.... clean up tomorrow;)

gotdirt410sprintcar
16-02-2017, 23:48
I'm surprised you have not got a DD wheel I guess your waiting on fanatec lol. @Grimey

GrimeyDog
17-02-2017, 02:03
I'm surprised you have not got a DD wheel I guess your waiting on fanatec lol. @Grimey

Exactly what im waiting for... i figure by Summer 2017 they will have 1 out:applouse:
Hard to Explain but these Pedals feel Much more natural than the Regular V3 pedals.... I have to get used to the clutch though...None of the pedals are at the same angle as the regular V3 pedals... im so used to the clutch being the same height as the brake...this clutch seems to be much Higher than the regular V3 pedals that i have to lift my foot to use it:(...other than that im already matching my best times with the new pedals...Im sure i can beat most my Times by .500---.750 once i get fully settled in with them:applouse:,...But because i dont use the clutch all the time the space provided by the inverted clutch pedal becomes a Nice Place i can stretch my Leg and foot out:D

killer2293
24-02-2017, 01:49
I've said this before on this thread but I just want to say it again. Thank you Grimey and the rest of the guys for putting so much work in on these settings. I really appreciate the fact that I can come to the forums and find so much quality information. I am amazed at the amount of time you guys have put in on these settings and this thread. So THANK YOU!

Gamer82678
27-02-2017, 05:34
Oh shit ! ! !
Those bad babies look sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat ! ! ! :cool:
Grimey those pedals must be mighty damn yummy ! :cool:

Rossi46 (NL)
02-03-2017, 20:22
Do you have good settings for a T300rs? After a year of driving i think there is much room for improvement of the ffb signal.
I tried to understand the topics but my technical english is not that good.

GrimeyDog
03-03-2017, 01:41
Do you have good settings for a T300rs? After a year of driving i think there is much room for improvement of the ffb signal.
I tried to understand the topics but my technical english is not that good.


Use My PDF from first page...Read the First page Notes...You Must use the Game.Master FFB to set the at the wheel FFB strength that feels best fir you... I suggest starting at 75 with your TM wheel test and + or - until the Wheel strength feels right to you.... Make sure you read the Notes... The PDF is 3/4ths down the first page.

konnos
03-03-2017, 08:51
Well try GrimeyDog's settings and also try JackSpade's settings and decide what you like more.

My personal settings for T300 are:
Profiler strength 75%
In-game
FFB strength 100 (it's in the tab next to the below settings)

TF 75
DRR: 0.09
DRF: 0.009
Smoothing: 0.00
Rel Gain: 1.30
Rel Bleed: 0.06
Rel Clamp: I use 2.00 because I don't want any compression, safe choice is 0.85 or 0.90
ScoopKnee 0.78
ScoopRed 0.28
Steering Gain: 1.30 (I use 1.40)
Everything I haven't mentioned is left at default values. There is very little clipping, only at super high forces like say when you are taking EauRouge at SPA and mind you that I se Folder10 from JackSpade's tweak set. Notice that some cars might need adjusting, but most are fine. Personally I have lowered a few forces that I thought were high but that needs knowledge about the ffb system. Try it first and go from there.

Haiden
03-03-2017, 14:50
I also found FF/TF at 75/75 works best, with most reasonable global settings.

Rossi46 (NL)
03-03-2017, 18:39
Thnx guy's i will try it.

edit: I just tried the settings from konnos, and the first impression feels very good!!
I always had the idea of missing something in the ffb feeling.
What exactly does the Rel Clamp setting?

hkraft300
04-03-2017, 00:23
My understanding is relative clamp is the point where relative bleed works. The menu description is accurate.
Example: putting 2 wheels off track or a rough kerb in the G29. When RAG=RAC with RAB>0, you get the gear rattles. Ffb is harsh with the spikes as you hit the bumpy area of the track.
When RAC<RAG, the G29 loses the rattle.
Basically the RAB turns on as the ffb spikes reach the RAC point, and bleeds off the ffb so it's "softer". You still get the bumpiness but it's not so harsh.

Not sure what's happening when RAC>RAG. That would get you the full fat metal steering bushes race car treatment where your wheel feels like it'll break because the bleed is ineffective.

ShneebnaMRR108
04-03-2017, 21:16
After a lot of study and experiments, I finally really like this FFB now. Thanks to all who have made inputs to this subject.

The 75/75 setting works great for me on the G920. Also got rid of almost all of the wheel oscillation. Only a very small amount, and only on some cars. The FFB actually feels so more realistic now, and my wrists feel better too! LOL. I'll be playing PC a lot more now. My in game Mst Scale is usually around 80 or so. Liking how much more flexibility in the settings I have now!

Got a lot of work to do now re-tuning cars!

inthebagbud
05-03-2017, 11:19
After a lot of study and experiments, I finally really like this FFB now. Thanks to all who have made inputs to this subject.

The 75/75 setting works great for me on the G920. Also got rid of almost all of the wheel oscillation. Only a very small amount, and only on some cars. The FFB actually feels so more realistic now, and my wrists feel better too! LOL. I'll be playing PC a lot more now. My in game Mst Scale is usually around 80 or so. Liking how much more flexibility in the settings I have now!

Got a lot of work to do now re-tuning cars!

Shneeb welcome back to the pcars fold so much better when you get the ffb dialed in. Put that AC disc aside and tell me which is better now!

ShneebnaMRR108
05-03-2017, 15:45
Shneeb welcome back to the pcars fold so much better when you get the ffb dialed in. Put that AC disc aside and tell me which is better now!

Thanks for the welcome "bud" ! I still like all the games available. Some are better than others in certain areas of course. PCars is now one of my favorites.
Maybe in the distant future we will be able to choose our own elements from game technologies to make our own game format the way we want it to be. Oh yeah, then I woke up! LOL

Woffu
06-03-2017, 02:06
Iv been thinking of getting a pc for a few months now and I'm finally going to do it this week. Iv been looking at all your sigs and think I know what I'm going to get but was just wondering if any of yous would do anything different or change any of the parts yous have. I'm going to be using it for VR

morpwr
06-03-2017, 02:15
Iv been thinking of getting a pc for a few months now and I'm finally going to do it this week. Iv been looking at all your sigs and think I know what I'm going to get but was just wondering if any of yous would do anything different or change any of the parts yous have. I'm going to be using it for VR

The only thing I would do different if I was doing it now would be the graphics card. Buy the best card you can afford. With the new ones coming out id give serious thought to the new gtx cards. Your graphics card is everything especially if you want vr. You wont be sorry going vr!!!!!!

GrimeyDog
06-03-2017, 10:47
Iv been thinking of getting a pc for a few months now and I'm finally going to do it this week. Iv been looking at all your sigs and think I know what I'm going to get but was just wondering if any of yous would do anything different or change any of the parts yous have. I'm going to be using it for VR

Wait until the 10th and order your PC... thats when the 1080ti comes out...also you can save a few $$$ by going with a Sky Lake i5/i7 instead of Kabby Lake CPU... If your Just Gaming and doing Regular Stuff the i5 is more than enough i7 is only better if you plan to do heavy Multitasking stuff... The performance Difference in the 2 Chip sets are very Minimal as far as Gaming...as Morpwr said the GPU/1080ti is the Most important part of the PC for Gaming... and yes Water Cool is better I went with Corsair H90 its a Smaller 240mm Radiator with a large radiator Cooling Effect when used in a push pull config and does Not take up alot of space... I have mine mounted at the Rear Exahst fan opening and Keeps Case and CPU Nice and Cool.

Check you tube there is alotta info on Current PC stuff and what a good build is.

Im going to upgrade to 1080ti in a few months.

Haiden
06-03-2017, 15:14
Iv been thinking of getting a pc for a few months now and I'm finally going to do it this week. Iv been looking at all your sigs and think I know what I'm going to get but was just wondering if any of yous would do anything different or change any of the parts yous have. I'm going to be using it for VR

Get the biggest/most SSD storage you can. If I was buying it again, I would have gotten a 1TB SSD or two 500GB. The space goes quickly, even when it's just for sim racing. I can always add another drive, but it would have just been more convenient to do it then. :)

morpwr
06-03-2017, 17:23
Get the biggest/most SSD storage you can. If I was buying it again, I would have gotten a 1TB SSD or two 500GB. The space goes quickly, even when it's just for sim racing. I can always add another drive, but it would have just been more convenient to do it then. :)

Yes it does that's why I went 2tb hdd and a 500gb ssd.

konnos
06-03-2017, 19:26
I have to correct you here. The i5 is ok if you want a low cost. If you want future proof system a gaming i7 or one if the coming 4core ryzens should be your choice, unless you really need 8 cores from the ryzen 7.

GrimeyDog
06-03-2017, 20:51
I have to correct you here. The i5 is ok if you want a low cost. If you want future proof system a gaming i7 or one if the coming 4core ryzens should be your choice, unless you really need 8 cores from the ryzen 7.

I Guess... Maybe your right.... I hear Mixed Reviews on the Matter i5 VS i7 for Gaming... The New Gen intel Chips are Not that big a Step up to warrent a upgrade...I read alot that unless your heavy Multi tasking/ Video editing that i5 is good enough... But in any event By the time Gaming Needs all 8 cores we will be All Screwed because Next Gen intel is strongly Suggesting that it will change the Socket size so we will all Need New Mother Boards to upgrade.

Im Not tooo Big into AMD/Ryzen... They will have to Make a Really Strong come back with this Ryzen tec to win Me back over....My other obsolite Now Non Gaming PC has a AMD chip set and it never Really had a WOW factor impression on Me.

GrimeyDog
06-03-2017, 20:55
Yes it does that's why I went 2tb hdd and a 500gb ssd.

The 1 TB SSD is Sooo Dam Expensive!!!
Im Running outta Space too... I been waiting for a SSD Price Drop but dont seem like thats gonna happen any time soon... or at least Not a Big Price drop.

GrimeyDog
06-03-2017, 22:17
I am going to Start Selling some Wheels to Make space for when the V2.5 gets Here...I need to make space!!!

I will post here to give first shot to whom ever would like to Buy

Tx 458 w/Original Rim/pedals + Ferrari Rim & T500 pedals maybe 4 months use on it or Less..... I Dunno what a Good price is but make Reasonable offer + Buyer pays for Shipping.

Fanatec GT2 wheel and CSP V1 pedals (Pedals have New Brain Box and Hall sensors installed just before i Bought My V3 pedals I guarantee this)...The Wheel has Lass than 6 months use on it... I got it for Fathers Day and the CSR Elite came out and i upgraded right away.

Thinking to maybe sell the CSR Elite also... I dunno yet...a reasonable offer could sway Me:o

I don't think I'm going to sell the V2 wheel as i need a back up wheel just in case...i just have too many wheels Now!!! I even still have the MS wireless wheel...its just taking up space... yup go ahead make a reasonable offer for it...LOL

also i have a Bride USA seat that has Never been Mounted or used for sale...That's $250.00 Non Negotiable buyer pays for shipping (Fiber Glass back, Cloth seat cushions...Not carbon Fiber Bride Seat... what are you Crazy??? You cant even Look at the Bride carbon Fiber seat for less than $1,500.00 US:no::p)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bride-Gias-Style-Reclinable-Seats-Gray-Gradation-/162405758100?hash=item25d0233494:g:WB0AAOSw2gxYriB2&vxp=mtr

Everything Guaranteed Great or Good shape and working:yes:

If interested post or inbox Me
I will post or send pics upon Request.

Woffu
06-03-2017, 23:16
Thanks for all the info guys I really appreciate it cheers

morpwr
07-03-2017, 10:47
The 1 TB SSD is Sooo Dam Expensive!!!
Im Running outta Space too... I been waiting for a SSD Price Drop but dont seem like thats gonna happen any time soon... or at least Not a Big Price drop.

I saw how fast the ps4 filled up and with the size of the new games coming out as they get better I figured it was the only way. Yeah thats why I went with a hdd. It isn't that much slower and because the big ssds are still pretty new the cost is still high.

GrimeyDog
07-03-2017, 14:38
I saw how fast the ps4 filled up and with the size of the new games coming out as they get better I figured it was the only way. Yeah thats why I went with a hdd. It isn't that much slower and because the big ssds are still pretty new the cost is still high.

Im Gonna add a few more 1 TB HDD...i heard talk that HDD's over 1 TD have a High Fail Rate... I dunno if thats true or Not though.

On My SDD i have windows and Pcars... The rest are on the HDD and thats almost 75% full.

morpwr
07-03-2017, 22:27
Im Gonna add a few more 1 TB HDD...i heard talk that HDD's over 1 TD have a High Fail Rate... I dunno if thats true or Not though.

On My SDD i have windows and Pcars... The rest are on the HDD and thats almost 75% full.

I don't know the 2tb have been out for a while and they make them a lot bigger then that now so I cant believe its going to be a big issue for us. I think ive seen 6tb? I'm not worried about it I only have my games on it so I could just download them in the worst case scenario. Nice thing is the 2tb hdd are pretty reasonable. I don't remember seeing anything with problems for the wd ones.

GrimeyDog
14-03-2017, 18:38
Any 1 know how to get VR working with race room???

morpwr
14-03-2017, 20:34
Any 1 know how to get VR working with race room???

Grimey,
Its real easy. Go to the sector 3 forum and click on the first link at the top for steam vr breaking it.lol You just need to opt out of the beta steam version the regular version works fine. Go to the first page and its right there. Only a couple things to do. You can up the resolution by adding 2.0 after the vr. So it will look like -vr 2.0 A range of 2.0 to 2.5 seems to work pretty good.

morpwr
14-03-2017, 21:07
Hey Grimey you getting buried up there yet? We got about a foot of snow so far. But that's nothing if you grew up in western new York. Plus my jeep has 35s and a 6inch lift kit on it so I'm not worried.

hkraft300
14-03-2017, 21:17
Hey Grimey you getting buried up there yet? We got about a foot of snow so far. But that's nothing if you grew up in western new York. Plus my jeep has 35s and a 6inch lift kit on it so I'm not worried.

RWD-only mode on Jeeps? Because drift :D

morpwr
14-03-2017, 21:57
RWD-only mode on Jeeps? Because drift :D

Oh yeah!! You have to play in the snow.:cool:

GrimeyDog
14-03-2017, 22:33
Hey Grimey you getting buried up there yet? We got about a foot of snow so far. But that's nothing if you grew up in western new York. Plus my jeep has 35s and a 6inch lift kit on it so I'm not worried.

The smow we got was nothing!!! not even a inch on the Ground...it was mostly rain...But its going to get bad because the Roads are Icing up Quickly!!! Its Freezing outside!!! My wife got a flat as i was Racing her Subaru to the tire shop about a Hour ago i felt it slipping really bad!!! When you can make a Subaru loose traction its 1 of 2 things 1) you did something stupid or 2) the roads are really Bad!!! The roads will Be screwed tomorrow!!!

hkraft300
14-03-2017, 23:50
Subaru slipping? Sorry Colin McRae :p

morpwr
15-03-2017, 00:45
The smow we got was nothing!!! not even a inch on the Ground...it was mostly rain...But its going to get bad because the Roads are Icing up Quickly!!! Its Freezing outside!!! My wife got a flat as i was Racing her Subaru to the tire shop about a Hour ago i felt it slipping really bad!!! When you can make a Subaru loose traction its 1 of 2 things 1) you did something stupid or 2) the roads are really Bad!!! The roads will Be screwed tomorrow!!!

Really? I thought that area was supposed to get hammered with snow. Schools closed here again the kids are happy.

poirqc
15-03-2017, 23:50
It snow more than a meter at Mnt. Sutton between yesterday afternoon and today. The flufy kind of snow. The one you can only dream of. Let's just say those ski conditions were the best i had in 29 years! :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

GrimeyDog
19-03-2017, 21:07
NEW ---> 03/14/2017 ----> Added PC Tweeker file and PDF Notes on front page:victorious:

morpwr
20-03-2017, 10:04
Well I jumped over here because it isn't really ac related. This was brought up by somebody and I don't remember who it was in the ac comparison post. I wonder how much input lag and refresh rate changes what we think we feel? Tv 60hz vs gaming monitor 144hz and vr 90hz. I know since changing to vr pcars feels completely different. In a good way.:)Is it a case were the disconnected feeling was caused by input lag and nobody realizing what it was we were feeling. If you only ever played on a tv how would you? Its strange I only felt it pcars. Possibly because the ffb has a higher frequency then other games so its more noticeable?

Haiden
20-03-2017, 11:30
Well I jumped over here because it isn't really ac related. This was brought up by somebody and I don't remember who it was in the ac comparison post. I wonder how much input lag and refresh rate changes what we think we feel? Tv 60hz vs gaming monitor 144hz and vr 90hz. I know since changing to vr pcars feels completely different. In a good way.:)Is it a case were the disconnected feeling was caused by input lag and nobody realizing what it was we were feeling. If you only ever played on a tv how would you? Its strange I only felt it pcars. Possibly because the ffb has a higher frequency then other games so its more noticeable?

IDK... I've been wondering that, too. I'm going to be switching to a monitor soon on the rig, because I mostly play VR now, and the 55" on the rig is better than the one in my living room...LOL. I was going to compare then. Was the floatiness description a TV only thing, though? I still feel the floatiness, and a distinct difference between the friction I feel AC. It's just that in VR, the floatiness doesn't bother me nearly as much. I think it's because of the improved perspective. I can see the car's rotation better and also have a much better sense of speed and depth. So when I tap the brakes, I can really sense the smallest bleed off of speed and subtle changes in the car's rotation as the weight shifts. For me, the float's still there, but the FFB feels more responsive because my visuals better match what I'm feeling.

GrimeyDog
20-03-2017, 13:33
Agree VR is Much Better than TV... My TV plays just Fine i Disnt notice any input Lag but thats just Me... The View perspective that VR offers is Just sooo Much More Immersive.

@Haiden... If Fanatec can port the Wheel FW from the v2.5 over to the v2 to make it Drag Free as well you will Really Be Happy!!!
Yes they are supposed to be the same but the v2.5 having No Drag makes them feel Very Different.... Have you Read the Fact Sheet fanatec posted about it??? It states the v2.5 is Drag Free the same as a DD wheel there will only be Response based on FFB signal input... If i had to rate it i would say the v2.5 has 20% better subtle FFB feel over the v2... Crisper/Sharper FFB with Smoother FFB power Ramp up... Which seems huge in a way because the smaller more subtle FFB forces Give Clarity and Definition to the Stronger Forces.... The Drag Free wheel center has Greatly improved Pcars as well as all other Games Progressive wheel Weight FFB feel.

I think i will settle here unless the Fanatec DD wheel has Absolutely Stellar Reviews and a Good Price point $999.99 or Less!!!
as it is Now with the v2.5 the only diff between DD is the v2.5 Belt Drive and Total piwer out put...the Extra Total wheel Power im Not worried about because i cant even use the v2 at 100% FFB output and i can Make the Curb Feel (Fy 100 & SOP vert 100) Soo strong it tries to Rip the wheel outta your hand with out adding Extra weight to the wheel center.

Check this video... I got #3 on LB still Running Stock tune!!! This is a track where wheel drag can Make a Huge Difference in Road Feel and Lap time.

Never Mind the Title... LOL... Dude put out a Challenge and well you Know.... I made a pun of it his Name is in the Title...LOL



http://youtu.be/98MrpRYo5w0

morpwr
20-03-2017, 14:35
Grimey you have to try the gokarts in vr.:D

GrimeyDog
20-03-2017, 14:39
Grimey you have to try the gokarts in vr.:D

The Super Kart is Awsome in VR!!! That thing Laps Like a LMP1 on Short Tracks!!!

morpwr
20-03-2017, 14:45
IDK... I've been wondering that, too. I'm going to be switching to a monitor soon on the rig, because I mostly play VR now, and the 55" on the rig is better than the one in my living room...LOL. I was going to compare then. Was the floatiness description a TV only thing, though? I still feel the floatiness, and a distinct difference between the friction I feel AC. It's just that in VR, the floatiness doesn't bother me nearly as much. I think it's because of the improved perspective. I can see the car's rotation better and also have a much better sense of speed and depth. So when I tap the brakes, I can really sense the smallest bleed off of speed and subtle changes in the car's rotation as the weight shifts. For me, the float's still there, but the FFB feels more responsive because my visuals better match what I'm feeling.

Its not completely gone but the feeling is a lot closer to the other sims. Same settings minus scoops and jacks classic settings. So the only thing I can blame is the tv because it felt the same on pc and the ps4 until I went to vr. Yes the perspective helps but I don't think that was all of the issue. I'm really thinking refresh rate and/or input lag hurt this game more then others for some reason.

GrimeyDog
20-03-2017, 18:52
Its not completely gone but the feeling is a lot closer to the other sims. Same settings minus scoops and jacks classic settings. So the only thing I can blame is the tv because it felt the same on pc and the ps4 until I went to vr. Yes the perspective helps but I don't think that was all of the issue. I'm really thinking refresh rate and/or input lag hurt this game more then others for some reason.



Ixm 100% convinced that the Disconnected Feel comes from using Low in Car Masters.... Think about it... Pcars FFB is supposed to be taken from the Spindle forces... If thats True then what i have been saying all along can Not be Denied... TF= Global Spindle Master Scale... 100 masters + TF 75 = 75 total output..... The in Car Master Just set the Level of Saturation of the FFB forces and Blends them as 1 before it goes to TF.... Same For Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz, SOP etc these settings just set the level of Saturation for the particular FFB feel that the setting Brings out.

hkraft300
20-03-2017, 19:55
But TF = % of tyre forces used in total ffb according to the in game definition?
Its not all TF. There's suspension geometry that has an effect (which are ultimately initiated by tyre forces?!).
So lower TF = reduced "tyre noise", if you will. Like bumps and kerbs are less, but alignment effects are still there. So, by that reasoning, would TF>100 give more "road feel", with MS to adjust the total ffb "volume"?

morpwr
20-03-2017, 20:36
Ixm 100% convinced that the Disconnected Feel comes from using Low in Car Masters.... Think about it... Pcars FFB is supposed to be taken from the Spindle forces... If thats True then what i have been saying all along can Not be Denied... TF= Global Spindle Master Scale... 100 masters + TF 75 = 75 total output..... The in Car Master Just set the Level of Saturation of the FFB forces and Blends them as 1 before it goes to TF.... Same For Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz, SOP etc these settings just set the level of Saturation for the particular FFB feel that the setting Brings out.

That's not it. If that was the case nothing would have changed because I switched to vr. Its a lot better since switching and if i did back to back tests between tv and vr id say you changed something in the ffb which I know isn't the case.Even the rain is immensely better and I always thought the rain sucked. I actually spent an hour driving a lmp in a thunderstorm the one night because it was so much fun to drive in. I'm still really thinking it has something to do with refresh rates and input lag or a combination of that even though my sony has a game mode that is supposed to help with that. Remember a gaming monitor is 1-2ms and most tvs are 20-30ms or higher.I never thought that little difference would matter but I'm starting to think it does. Maybe that little bit of lag is what gives so many of us that disconnected feeling because I don't have it anymore. Pcars still feels different then other sims but that's been explained why it does and the way it feels now definitely isn't bad.:cool:

GrimeyDog
20-03-2017, 20:43
That's not it. If that was the case nothing would have changed because I switched to vr. Its a lot better since switching and if i did back to back tests between tv and vr id say you changed something in the ffb which I know isn't the case.Even the rain is immensely better and I always thought the rain sucked. I actually spent an hour driving a lmp in a thunderstorm the one night because it was so much fun to drive in. I'm still really thinking it has something to do with refresh rates and input lag or a combination of that even though my sony has a game mode that is supposed to help with that. Remember a gaming monitor is 1-2ms and most tvs are 20-30ms or higher.I never thought that little difference would matter but I'm starting to think it does. Maybe that little bit of lag is what gives so many of us that disconnected feeling because I don't have it anymore. Pcars still feels different then other sims but that's been explained why it does and the way it feels now definitely isn't bad.:cool:

Its a Brain Trick... Same as Buttkickers Vibrating the whole Chair... You see it Left Hear it Left so your Brain Screws you to think the Left Side is Vibrating More... Oculus has the same effect because your getting a better more true/Natural perspective of the Road

morpwr
20-03-2017, 21:12
Its a Brain Trick... Same as Buttkickers Vibrating the whole Chair... You see it Left Hear it Left so your Brain Screws you to think the Left Side is Vibrating More... Oculus has the same effect because your getting a better more true/Natural perspective of the Road

That's what I'm getting at. I wonder if many of us just weren't realizing the real problem was lag not actually the game. So our brain thinks the car feels disconnected because there is a lag between what we see and what we actually feel. Similar to leaving the motion effects on with vr. It makes you think you can feel the car under you because of visual cues.

GrimeyDog
20-03-2017, 22:53
But TF = % of tyre forces used in total ffb according to the in game definition?
Its not all TF. There's suspension geometry that has an effect (which are ultimately initiated by tyre forces?!).
So lower TF = reduced "tyre noise", if you will. Like bumps and kerbs are less, but alignment effects are still there. So, by that reasoning, would TF>100 give more "road feel", with MS to adjust the total ffb "volume"?

As you see the Game Definitions are Very Vague and Miss Miss Leading....Ex: TF should have been Named Spindle Force since TF= Global Spindle Master Scale.... Ive Tested and Made Videos... if you like i could make another Video Showing In Car Masters 100 -VS- 200 The Graph will Not Change Nor will there be any Clipping the only thing that will Change is the saturation of FFB forces that you Feel in the wheel:yes:...Better Yet Test My settings for your self and see... But i will Make the Video if you want.

Just because some one went to Colledfe doe's Not Mean they know More or are Smarter than you.....So just because some one bought into the Beta test dont Mean they Know how things work.... They are just like every one else just looking fir a Formula that works for them to their taste... 1.00/100 is the intuitive Default for the FFB system:yes: 1.00/100=100% there is Never a Need to set any setting Higher than 1.00/100 If the system is being used properly... Meaning all parts Balanced:yes: Using Low Master Forces you to use High RAG to compensate/Try to add back the FFB power that is inherent to Low in Car Masters.... Remember Pcars FFB is Supposed to be Directly derived from the Spindle Forces:yes: So why any 1 that understands how the system works would promote using Low in Car Masters is Beyond My Comprehension:confused: Liw Masters Kill the Very FFB you want to feel at the Source then your trying to Boost it back up with High RAG which is why you get the Floaty or Disconnected from the Road Feel.... Also in the absence of a Signal or In the Case of a Very Low Signal any 1 that Knows electronics Knows that Boosting the Signal from other than the Main source can and will introduce Static/Noise as Fillier Not to Mention that Electricity Naturally has Noise/Distortion in it....... Shall i continue to write more??? I can write a thesus if you like.

hkraft300
20-03-2017, 23:51
Just throwing out alternate ideas based on the G29 use.
Increasing the in car MS up on a G29 has it clipping crazy. Fanatec is far stronger so it can handle it I guess?
So ATM my TF is 75 MS ~30 (depending on car) rag 1.0. Using MS to adjust clipping. Should I be reducing Rag and increasing MS, then?

GrimeyDog
21-03-2017, 04:02
Just throwing out alternate ideas based on the G29 use.
Increasing the in car MS up on a G29 has it clipping crazy. Fanatec is far stronger so it can handle it I guess?
So ATM my TF is 75 MS ~30 (depending on car) rag 1.0. Using MS to adjust clipping. Should I be reducing Rag and increasing MS, then?

Leave RAG and SG at 100/1.00...What is your RAC set to??? High RAC is what causes Clipping:yes: you will find that if you reduce RAC you can Avoid Clipping entirely while still maintaining Great FFB feel... Pcars has a bunch of redundant settings!!! RAC again sets the FFB saturation/volume within the relative system.
RAG is a Limiter any force that tries to rise above it will be clipped/Cut...RAG 1.00/100 =100% power there is no need to use RAG at 130, 150 .180% power as long as the other parts of the system are used in balance regarding the other FFB system parts....look at the front page there is a Video RAG 200 -vs- RAG 100 there is no clipping with either because RAC is set accordingly...for your wheel set RAC at 75 then reduce until the wheel feels Good to you....RAC is what really sets the total volume of the FFB before it Goes to SG... SG need Not be reduced if RAC is set to a proper level for your wheel and FFB taste.

When RAC is set to the correct level you should be able to use master 100 and adjust them per car as needed...1 car too strong reduce masters until feel is right, 1 car too light increase the masters until feel is right...read the front page there is a link that was posted by tenenbaum speaking to 1 of the game dev and this is exactly how he described to use the system... Here is a excerpt from the post and a link to the thread...read it for you self and see:yes: if the game devs said this is how to use the system where do people come up with all this other rules about the FFB system:confused:... in car master set saturation of FFB Forces:yes: TF set the strength/volume of the FFB forces, RAG sets max limit of the FFB forces that operate within the FFB system..EX nothing rises above its set level EX:1.00 any force that tries to rise above it will be cut...RAC is what you set to tweek the forces within the relative system...turn RAC up or Down so that the strongest FFB spikes Peak at the Top and bottom of FFB graph without Flatlining or cutting the Tips Off<--clipping...then pick a car you know well test drive on a Bumpy track you know well and + or - the in car masters until the car FFB strength feels how you like it:yes:.... Me my self i use 100 masters and same settings every car... The FFB is just the FFB it has Nothing to do with the way a car handles...FFB only purpose is to inform you how your car is handling the road, Ex: grip feel, road feel, slip feel, Weight transfer using Low masters kills the FFB at the source...follow the link read the post for yourself...All the right info to tweek its all right in there... check it out Read it then tell me I'm Wrong...


Quote from tennenbaum linked post below this was the Eye opening FFB Changer for Me!!!
Link to original post below
http://www.racedepartment.com/thread...thread.105466/ (http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/the-project-cars-ffb-guide-thread.105466/)

Quote "a) Fx = 200, Fy = 100, Fz = 100, Mz = 100, Spindle Master Scale = 100
b) Fx = 100, Fy = 50, Fz = 50, Mz = 50, Spindle Master Scale = 200

Mathematically speaking a) and b) represent the exact same thing and will result in the exact same FFB mixing in terms of relative and overall output. This is because (as hinted at above) the Spindle Master Scale (Sms) is distributive such that Sms * (Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz) = (Sms * Fx, Sms * Fy, Sms * Fz, Sms * Mz). Again, take a moment to reflect on that.

Fy, Fz, and Mz all behave in the same way from a mathematical perspective.

It is worth noting that Tire Force is the global version of Spindle Master Scale. The global Tire Force default is 100, which again means 100% or simply 1.0. The reason there is both a global and a per car knob that do the exact same kind of scaling, is that different cars produce different forces as measured at the steering rack. So if you like the quality of the FFB overall, but think the wheel jerks around a bit too much in all the cars, try dialing down Tire Force. If you like the quality of the FFB overall, but you think one or two of the cars have too strong FFB, leave the global Tire Force at 100 and tweak the Spindle Master Scale for those two cars." End quote

(http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/the-project-cars-ffb-guide-thread.105466/)

hkraft300
21-03-2017, 06:47
Ahh I get it now.
I think my RAC is too high (RAG-0.05 I think) and maybe not enough RAB (~0.05) for the rac to really work.
Will have a play with it and post results when I've got it good.
Cheers for that. Using the rac+rab seems to be the way to go for the G29. Always thought the low forces weren't enough on the G29; was considering playing with the scoops to boost it but not sure how they work (which way to adjust, the wording is tricky).

morpwr
21-03-2017, 10:01
Ahh I get it now.
I think my RAC is too high (RAG-0.05 I think) and maybe not enough RAB (~0.05) for the rac to really work.
Will have a play with it and post results when I've got it good.
Cheers for that. Using the rac+rab seems to be the way to go for the G29. Always thought the low forces weren't enough on the G29; was considering playing with the scoops to boost it but not sure how they work (which way to adjust, the wording is tricky).

Be careful with rab. It can make the wheel start to hang and grab if set to high on some wheels and isn't always easy to notice. Some of the time its more noticeable if you have to make a quick correction or the rear steps out. If the low forces are a little weak try lowering scoop reduction. If you play with sr and sk id recommend making small like .02-.03 changes and test drive. Its enough youll feel a change but not so much youll start chasing yourself. Then you can go back and fine tune it. Yes .01 will make a noticeable difference once you settle in on the rest of the settings.

Haiden
21-03-2017, 10:36
Its not completely gone but the feeling is a lot closer to the other sims. Same settings minus scoops and jacks classic settings. So the only thing I can blame is the tv because it felt the same on pc and the ps4 until I went to vr. Yes the perspective helps but I don't think that was all of the issue. I'm really thinking refresh rate and/or input lag hurt this game more then others for some reason.


Ixm 100% convinced that the Disconnected Feel comes from using Low in Car Masters.... Think about it... Pcars FFB is supposed to be taken from the Spindle forces... If thats True then what i have been saying all along can Not be Denied... TF= Global Spindle Master Scale... 100 masters + TF 75 = 75 total output..... The in Car Master Just set the Level of Saturation of the FFB forces and Blends them as 1 before it goes to TF.... Same For Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz, SOP etc these settings just set the level of Saturation for the particular FFB feel that the setting Brings out.


That's not it. If that was the case nothing would have changed because I switched to vr. Its a lot better since switching and if i did back to back tests between tv and vr id say you changed something in the ffb which I know isn't the case.Even the rain is immensely better and I always thought the rain sucked. I actually spent an hour driving a lmp in a thunderstorm the one night because it was so much fun to drive in. I'm still really thinking it has something to do with refresh rates and input lag or a combination of that even though my sony has a game mode that is supposed to help with that. Remember a gaming monitor is 1-2ms and most tvs are 20-30ms or higher.I never thought that little difference would matter but I'm starting to think it does. Maybe that little bit of lag is what gives so many of us that disconnected feeling because I don't have it anymore. Pcars still feels different then other sims but that's been explained why it does and the way it feels now definitely isn't bad.:cool:

IDK... I can still feel it. It's not like PCars feels any different to me. It's just less noticeable, because of the perspective. Kind of like how when you change the FFB, you sometimes feel like the car is handling differently, even though it's not. The change in FFB is just making you respond differently. I'm pretty sure there are people using gaming monitors reporting the floatiness. Also, why just PCars? Ever other game plays fine at 60Hz.

It also has nothing to do with the settings. They can make the floatiness worse or better, but it's always there. I even feel it when I try your setting Grimey. I haven't tried anyone settings--even people that claim they don't feel any floatiness--where that feeling wasn't there.

Besides...didn't they already admit that this was a model difference in the other thread, and that it's been resolved in PCars2? If that's the case, how can it be latency?

GrimeyDog
21-03-2017, 10:42
Ahh I get it now.
I think my RAC is too high (RAG-0.05 I think) and maybe not enough RAB (~0.05) for the rac to really work.
Will have a play with it and post results when I've got it good.
Cheers for that. Using the rac+rab seems to be the way to go for the G29. Always thought the low forces weren't enough on the G29; was considering playing with the scoops to boost it but not sure how they work (which way to adjust, the wording is tricky).

RAG should only be set Low or Off when using the Soft/High clip system to Regulate the FFB system power Limit... Other than that set RAG at 1.00/100 IMO at all times...When using Low RAG you are telling the system to Let No more than 0.05% power flow through the system and to Cut every force that rises above its set limit.

RAB you have to fine tune to taste according to your wheel... This Does exactly hat the Name says... It Bleed off FFB power to create Changes in wheel weight and create FFB based on wgats going on.... Ex: in a corner under heavy weight tranfer you hit the curb RAB will Bleed off power to Create Bump Feel....(Start with 0.08 for tweeking purposes)

RAC *this seems to be where Most get really Stuck/Confused* Relative Adjust Clamp it does exactly what the Name Says... It Clamps/Limits the power of the FFB forces at its set level... Ex: RAC 75 this means that Power to FFB forces will be stoped at 75% of total system power.... This is important because even though you stop Adding power at EX:75 the FFB Spikes will continue to Rise until the residual FFB power Dissapates.... Example remember the fan theory: when you shut off the power the fan Blades will continue to spin until the residual power Dissapates... The FFB system is the same way Even though No FFB power will be added after the EX: RAC 75 set limit FFB power spikes will continue to Rise until the Residual FFB power dissapates.... Therefore you Must Set RAC Lower than RAG to leave Room for Expansion of FFB forces to Avoid Clipping:yes:

Start with In car Masters 100, TF 75, RAG 100, RAB 0.08 , RAC 75 test for Feel & Look for FFB Graph Flat Lining/Clipping...There should be No Clipping but i dont know How Much FFB a G29 can take... If any Clipping/FFB Graph Flatlining then Reduce TF & RAC to 65
Note: with these settings High In Car Masters will Not Cause Clipping they are For Per Car FFB Feel adjustment Only... Higher Masters Give More Saturated FFB Forces/Low in Car Masters Less Saturation of FFB forces.
Scoops you will have to adjust bu Feel to your taste and wheel used when i was using scoops i used 68/24 feels the same as No Scoops just Less Linear/ LessPowerful

morpwr
21-03-2017, 11:18
IDK... I can still feel it. It's not like PCars feels any different to me. It's just less noticeable, because of the perspective. Kind of like how when you change the FFB, you sometimes feel like the car is handling differently, even though it's not. The change in FFB is just making you respond differently. I'm pretty sure there are people using gaming monitors reporting the floatiness. Also, why just PCars? Ever other game plays fine at 60Hz.

It also has nothing to do with the settings. They can make the floatiness worse or better, but it's always there. I even feel it when I try your setting Grimey. I haven't tried anyone settings--even people that claim they don't feel any floatiness--where that feeling wasn't there.

Besides...didn't they already admit that this was a model difference in the other thread, and that it's been resolved in PCars2? If that's the case, how can it be latency?

I can still feel it but its not nearly as bad after switching to vr. I'm back to having a tough time deciding which one I want to play.:) AC,R3E,PCARS ? So is it only the perspective? IDK If I remember correctly its because of pure rack forces? Why pcars I have no idea.lol

GrimeyDog
21-03-2017, 11:37
IDK... I can still feel it. It's not like PCars feels any different to me. It's just less noticeable, because of the perspective. Kind of like how when you change the FFB, you sometimes feel like the car is handling differently, even though it's not. The change in FFB is just making you respond differently. I'm pretty sure there are people using gaming monitors reporting the floatiness. Also, why just PCars? Ever other game plays fine at 60Hz.

It also has nothing to do with the settings. They can make the floatiness worse or better, but it's always there. I even feel it when I try your setting Grimey. I haven't tried anyone settings--even people that claim they don't feel any floatiness--where that feeling wasn't there.

Besides...didn't they already admit that this was a model difference in the other thread, and that it's been resolved in PCars2? If that's the case, how can it be latency?


I can still feel it but its not nearly as bad after switching to vr. I'm back to having a tough time deciding which one I want to play.:) AC,R3E,PCARS ? So is it only the perspective? IDK If I remember correctly its because of pure rack forces? Why pcars I have no idea.lol

Do either of you wear Head phones??? This can make a Huge Diff... I Wear Head phones so i can Hear the Tire Scrub, The Buttkickers Rumble for Road Feel so so between what i see Hear and Feel through the Buttkickers an wheel i feel totally Connected.... Some tracks have more Physical Road feel through the wheel than others but in General i feel well planted... time of Day and Date play a part in Road Feel...I always race june 18th (24hr Lemans Race Date) i notice racing online that the same track can feel Very Different depending on time of day and date.... Track Temps even a Few degrees colder that what you are used to can make Huge Difference in Grip Feel.

For Me all of the sims Seem pretty balanced and Even according to Grip Feel.

also @ Haiden do you use DRI??? I use Dri Off v2 & v2.5 i dont like the FFB assisted help to tirn the wheel.... it doesn't feel Natural to Me....Maybe if i were Drifting i would use it but Not for Racing for Me it takes away the Wheel weight/Fight and reduces Grip Road feel.... I like to Push pull the wheel.

morpwr
21-03-2017, 11:49
Do either of you wear Head phones??? This can make a Huge Diff... I Wear Head phones so i can Hear the Tire Scrub, The Buttkickers Rumble for Road Feel so so between what i see Hear and Feel through the Buttkickers an wheel i feel totally Connected.... Some tracks have more Physical Road feel through the wheel than others but in General i feel well planted... time of Day and Date play a part in Road Feel...I always race june 18th (24hr Lemans Race Date) i notice racing on line that the same track can feel Very Different depending on time of day and date.... Track Temps even a Few degrees colder that what you are used to can make Huge Difference in Grip Feel.

For Me all of the sims Seem pretty balanced and Even according to Grip Feel.

also @ Haiden do you use DRI??? I use Dri Off v2 & v2.5 i dont like the FFB assisted helo to tirn the wheel.... it doesn't feel Natural to Me....Maybe if i were Drifting i would use it but Not for Racing for Me it takes away the Wheel weight/Fight and reduces Grip Road feel.... I like to Push pull the wheel.

I use headphones now with vr. I actually think pcars feels pretty good now. I started a career again at the karts and I'm having a blast!

Haiden
21-03-2017, 12:51
I can still feel it but its not nearly as bad after switching to vr. I'm back to having a tough time deciding which one I want to play.:) AC,R3E,PCARS ? So is it only the perspective? IDK If I remember correctly its because of pure rack forces? Why pcars I have no idea.lol

That's how I feel--on both accounts. I think that it is just the perspective that makes it feels different. And yes, they said the lack of friction was a result of the pure rack model.

Haiden
21-03-2017, 13:03
also @ Haiden do you use DRI??? I use Dri Off v2 & v2.5 i dont like the FFB assisted help to tirn the wheel.... it doesn't feel Natural to Me....Maybe if i were Drifting i would use it but Not for Racing for Me it takes away the Wheel weight/Fight and reduces Grip Road feel.... I like to Push pull the wheel.

I just started messing with DRI about a week ago. My understanding is it isn't adding anything. It's ​just reducing the amount of resistance/dampening the wheel uses. The V2's motor is strong enough to interfere with countersteering. DRI just makes it easier to countersteer. I believe the same could be achieved by reducing the @wheel Dpr setting. DRI felt strange at first, but then I noticed that, after about 10 or so laps, when I turned it off, I realized how much better my countersteering was with it on. There were a lot of small corrections that I wasn't​ making with DRI off. And the big corrections were easier and faster to make. For now, I'm going to leave DRI on for AC and R3E, but I'm still comparing using DRI or PWM/PWM2 for drag reduction in PCars.

hkraft300
21-03-2017, 13:24
Oh typo.
RAG =1, RAC = ~0.95 and rab =0.02.
I need lower rac and/or increase rab for more effect.
Will try to not overdo it with rab for the "grabbing".

GrimeyDog
21-03-2017, 13:28
I just started messing with DRI about a week ago. My understanding is it isn't adding anything. It's ​just reducing the amount of resistance/dampening the wheel uses. The V2's motor is strong enough to interfere with countersteering. DRI just makes it easier to countersteer. I believe the same could be achieved by reducing the @wheel Dpr setting. DRI felt strange at first, but then I noticed that, after about 10 or so laps, when I turned it off, I realized how much better my countersteering was with it on. There were a lot of small corrections that I wasn't​ making with DRI off. And the big corrections were easier and faster to make. For now, I'm going to leave DRI on for AC and R3E, but I'm still comparing using DRI or PWM/PWM2 for drag reduction in PCars.

Fanatec is working to get the v2.5 FW compatible/Similar to the v2...as it its now the DR/FW for the v2.5 will not work with the v2..I have to uninstall the Dr_277 from PC and install DR_250 FW 176 (I don't like the feel of DR_261 the wheel center is too sharp and snappy) if i hook up the v2... but if they can port over even 3/4ths of the reduced Wheel Drag with the New FW you will love it!!!

I still use all on wheel settings stock other than FFB 50%, brF 100% , and ABs 55% ... I use same settings v2 and v2.5

morpwr
21-03-2017, 13:59
That's how I feel--on both accounts. I think that it is just the perspective that makes it feels different. And yes, they said the lack of friction was a result of the pure rack model.

They have been talking about this on the ac forum. Some of the things causing you to miss some of the ffb. I honestly don't know and I'm not even sure how you would prove it and I'm not hooking the tv back up.lol As long as it feels good I'm just racing.:D

Woffu
21-03-2017, 14:41
Thanks for sending me broke guys lol just ordered my pc. Should be here next week worst part about living out in the country every thing takes ages to get here. Can't wait to see how good pcars really is and really looking forward to vr. When yous started talking about how much better it is in vr i just couldn't wait any longer. Should of done this months ago lol like everyone else who switched said
Then I'll be looking at upgrading my wheel and pedals but I'll be waiting to see what happens with fanatec's dd wheel when it comes out

Haiden
21-03-2017, 14:57
They have been talking about this on the ac forum. Some of the things causing you to miss some of the ffb. I honestly don't know and I'm not even sure how you would prove it and I'm not hooking the tv back up.lol As long as it feels good I'm just racing.:D

All I know is, I can still feel the lack of friction in the PCars FFB. The only difference is, I'm able to better control the car and modulation the brake and throttle, because I can see the car's rotation much better. I'm going to get a new gaming monitor as soon as the move is done. I'll be able to for sure then.

A while back, I did notice that I feel the floatiness more when I'm using Scoops. The higher the reduction, the more I feel it. I stopped using Scoops before I switched to VR. At the time, I wasn't aware of the correlation I felt between Scoops and the floatiness, but I'm pretty sure that's one of the reasons I ended up going with no Scoops. It just feels better to me. I'm not too concern, though. I'm able to enjoy PCars more now, so I'm happy. Besides, PCars2, Fanatec's DD, and a new rig on coming up this year, so I 'm not going to waste time trying to figure it out when everything's changes soon anyway. :)

morpwr
21-03-2017, 14:58
Thanks for sending me broke guys lol just ordered my pc. Should be here next week worst part about living out in the country every thing takes ages to get here. Can't wait to see how good pcars really is and really looking forward to vr. When yous started talking about how much better it is in vr i just couldn't wait any longer. Should of done this months ago lol like everyone else who switched said
Then I'll be looking at upgrading my wheel and pedals but I'll be waiting to see what happens with fanatec's dd wheel when it comes out

It will be worth every penny!!!!!!!!!! I said the same thing when I finally made the switch. I should have done it sooner. It opens up so many more options. Right now with the pc racer and heusinkveld pedals I'm perfectly happy. Ill definitely go dd at some point but I'm pretty with what I have right now. That looks like a killer pc in your sig too you shouldn't have any problem maxing everything out.:)

morpwr
21-03-2017, 17:02
All I know is, I can still feel the lack of friction in the PCars FFB. The only difference is, I'm able to better control the car and modulation the brake and throttle, because I can see the car's rotation much better. I'm going to get a new gaming monitor as soon as the move is done. I'll be able to for sure then.

A while back, I did notice that I feel the floatiness more when I'm using Scoops. The higher the reduction, the more I feel it. I stopped using Scoops before I switched to VR. At the time, I wasn't aware of the correlation I felt between Scoops and the floatiness, but I'm pretty sure that's one of the reasons I ended up going with no Scoops. It just feels better to me. I'm not too concern, though. I'm able to enjoy PCars more now, so I'm happy. Besides, PCars2, Fanatec's DD, and a new rig on coming up this year, so I 'm not going to waste time trying to figure it out when everything's changes soon anyway. :)

I'm not saying its gone just a lot better. But yeah that could be part of it too. Since getting the new wheel I haven't used any scoops either and have no intention of playing with them now.

Haiden
21-03-2017, 18:57
I'm not saying its gone just a lot better. But yeah that could be part of it too. Since getting the new wheel I haven't used any scoops either and have no intention of playing with them now.

What I noticed is that, with Scoops, everything below the Knee feels floaty. When I use the old SK/SR of 0.86/0.028, the float feeling is terrible. When I use the updated SK/SR of 0.42/0.12, it feels better, but disabling Scoops all together feels the best. There's something about the feel of the wheel with reduction that doesn't agree with me.

Like you, I'm done messing with Scoops, RA too. With them both disabled, you have to adjust the gains to avoid clipping, but I like the pure feeling of the FFB better.

GrimeyDog
21-03-2017, 20:02
I'm not saying its gone just a lot better. But yeah that could be part of it too. Since getting the new wheel I haven't used any scoops either and have no intention of playing with them now.


What I noticed is that, with Scoops, everything below the Knee feels floaty. When I use the old SK/SR of 0.86/0.028, the float feeling is terrible. When I use the updated SK/SR of 0.42/0.12, it feels better, but disabling Scoops all together feels the best. There's something about the feel of the wheel with reduction that doesn't agree with me.

Like you, I'm done messing with Scoops, RA too. With them both disabled, you have to adjust the gains to avoid clipping, but I like the pure feeling of the FFB better.

No More FFB Tweeking for Me for a few months now...I'm in Full Race Mode!!!
I need to get my wheel settings for R3E together...i been all tweeked out from doing Pcars tweeking that i don't feel to tweek any other wheel settings not to mention i found My FFB sweet spot with Pcars so Nothing else seems to feel as good Not even iRacing... I don't know what all the Hype about iRacing is about...IMO Pcars FFB Physics are better.

morpwr
21-03-2017, 20:22
No More FFB Tweeking for Me for a few months now...I'm in Full Race Mode!!!
I need to get my wheel settings for R3E together...i been all tweeked out from doing Pcars tweeking that i don't feel to tweek any other wheel settings not to mention i found My FFB sweet spot with Pcars so Nothing else seems to feel as good Not even iRacing... I don't know what all the Hype about iRacing is about...IMO Pcars FFB Physics are better.

R3e doesn't need much tweaking at all except maybe the car gains. Remember that before you do anything else as some are off by quite a bit and like ac it makes a big difference. That and turn down some of the effects like engine and shifts. Some of the older cars don't feel as good as the newer ones but that's to be expected and I think they have been updating them to the newer physics. But most of them feel really good once you adjust the gain.

gotdirt410sprintcar
21-03-2017, 20:24
When i jump too pc i will do iracing for a little while Dirt son lol. But i will try others too but you can win money in iracing they are getting sponsorships. over the winter they had a 10 race series paid 1,200 0r 2,500 too the winner makes more sense if you can run them. And too the FFB they are all close for the most part its jjust racing other sims that makes another sim feel funny. Pcars is good but i like ac more i play it ,and they have scaned tracks this has too be done too have the best FFB feel specially if cars are like they are in real world setup changes etc. Too hell with it i'll drive junk FFB too i ain't scare skar!! The pc im looking at is a cyberpower not looking too blow 1,500 though

Haiden
21-03-2017, 20:49
No More FFB Tweeking for Me for a few months now...I'm in Full Race Mode!!!
I need to get my wheel settings for R3E together...i been all tweeked out from doing Pcars tweeking that i don't feel to tweek any other wheel settings not to mention i found My FFB sweet spot with Pcars so Nothing else seems to feel as good Not even iRacing... I don't know what all the Hype about iRacing is about...IMO Pcars FFB Physics are better.


R3e doesn't need much tweaking at all except maybe the car gains. Remember that before you do anything else as some are off by quite a bit and like ac it makes a big difference. That and turn down some of the effects like engine and shifts. Some of the older cars don't feel as good as the newer ones but that's to be expected and I think they have been updating them to the newer physics. But most of them feel really good once you adjust the gain.

R3E is definitely simple to tune. I agree, too...keep the extra secondary effects to a minimum. And keep the Vertical Load on the low side, and don't set the lateral forces too high, either. Too much Vertical Load will interfere with other forces when set too high, and Lateral Force will overpower others if too high--same as it does in most sims. Other than that, it's just a matter of setting the in-car gain.

Haiden
21-03-2017, 20:52
When i jump too pc i will do iracing for a little while Dirt son lol. But i will try others too but you can win money in iracing they are getting sponsorships. over the winter they had a 10 race series paid 1,200 0r 2,500 too the winner makes more sense if you can run them. And too the FFB they are all close for the most part its jjust racing other sims that makes another sim feel funny. Pcars is good but i like ac more i play it ,and they have scaned tracks this has too be done too have the best FFB feel specially if cars are like they are in real world setup changes etc. Too hell with it i'll drive junk FFB too i ain't scare skar!! The pc im looking at is a cyberpower not looking too blow 1,500 though

Online racing is definitely where iRacing shines. Other than that, I can't say it has much on, or over, other top titles.

hkraft300
21-03-2017, 21:37
Initially I had gain 98, clamp 95 and bleed 2. With MS 30 in high downforce cars I'd clip a lot (tf 75).
Just changed to rag 100, rac 90 and rab 10. No clipping and the wheel feels better at high speed turns, even with MS pushed up to 40.
Need to maybe increase the clamp a little. Using the clamp to sort out clipping is the only way to go. Thanks again Grimes.

GrimeyDog
21-03-2017, 23:19
Initially I had gain 98, clamp 95 and bleed 2. With MS 30 in high downforce cars I'd clip a lot (tf 75).
Just changed to rag 100, rac 90 and rab 10. No clipping and the wheel feels better at high speed turns, even with MS pushed up to 40.
Need to maybe increase the clamp a little. Using the clamp to sort out clipping is the only way to go. Thanks again Grimes.

Reduce the Clamp 75 --->80 and Raise the in Car Masters to 75 or Higher according to Car FB Feel...you will Get Even Better/More FFB feel...
With RAC 75--->80 you can use in Car Masters to Adjust FFB strength per Car as Needed if Needed.... With RAC set sooo High it leaves very Little Room to adjust Cars with in Car Master and Stay out of the Clipping zone.... Lower RAC =More Flexability to set Level of FFB feel with in Car Master with out Sacrificing/Loosing any FFB Feel/Dynamic Range and increased Subtle FFB Feel because you are Not Limiting the FFB at the Source.

hkraft300
22-03-2017, 01:36
Next time I'll try to double the Ms and see what happens, then adjust clamp as needed.
My fx/y/z are default 100.
I'm getting good low force feel and it seems the clamp isn't killing the high forces. It's all there and it's great :)
High rac + 40 Ms isn't clipping. Reducing rac would block the increased Ms anyway, no?

konnos
22-03-2017, 07:59
No More FFB Tweeking for Me for a few months now...I'm in Full Race Mode!!!\

If I had 10 dollars for each time you have said that, I d probably have the Rift by now :D

GrimeyDog
22-03-2017, 09:10
Next time I'll try to double the Ms and see what happens, then adjust clamp as needed.
My fx/y/z are default 100.
I'm getting good low force feel and it seems the clamp isn't killing the high forces. It's all there and it's great :)
High rac + 40 Ms isn't clipping. Reducing rac would block the increased Ms anyway, no?


As Long as it Feels Good then your ok... Never a Need to set RAG above 100 as you can see... Next time you Tweek you Know exactly what to play with to get things Right and Avoid Clipping... Its all about RAC/ TF to control Clipping... The in Car Masters only Set the FFB Saturation Level and will Not cause Clipping as Long as TF & RAC are set correctly to Balance the FFB forces.

The FFB is Not Complicated once you know what to :yes:.. Glad i could Help:cool:.

GrimeyDog
22-03-2017, 09:15
\

If I had 10 dollars for each time you have said that, I d probably have the Rift by now :D

True... Im Done Now... Ive been finished a few Months Now.... Once i learned TF= Global Spindle Master Scare every thing Fell into place and it all made sence.

TF should Have Been Named Spindle Force or Something... The Name is Very Miss leading... TF Gives the impression that it sets TF as in wheel Weight.... TF Doesnt suggest it affects the Whole Suspension FFB output... That simple Fact Greatly Confounded Me for Months:confused:

GrimeyDog
22-03-2017, 13:26
@Haiden...Take a Look on the Fanatec forum... Look in the Discussions section... There you will Find FW 277/278 CSW v2 & v2.5 This New FW may Have a Setting to Reduce the Drag in the v2 wheel as it is with the v2.5
I have Not had a Chance to test ut with the v2... I dunno if i will i dont feel to Swap out wheel bases from My Rig as im Not planning to use PS4 any time soon.... If you update can you post your thoughts on the FW.

Haiden
22-03-2017, 13:48
@Haiden...Take a Look on the Fanatec forum... Look in the Discussions section... There you will Find FW 277/278 CSW v2 & v2.5 This New FW may Have a Setting to Reduce the Drag in the v2 wheel as it is with the v2.5
I have Not had a Chance to test ut with the v2... I dunno if i will i dont feel to Swap out wheel bases from My Rig as im Not planning to use PS4 any time soon.... If you update can you post your thoughts on the FW.

I'll give a shot this weekend. I dialed out the drag completely in PCars with PWM/PWM2. For the other titles, DRI=3 works fine. But even without DRI, the drag wasn't that bad. I just started using DRI in AC and R3E about a week or so ago. I'll try the new firmware, though.

GrimeyDog
22-03-2017, 22:30
When they get rF2 fully updated i think it will give Pcars some real competition!!!

gotdirt410sprintcar
22-03-2017, 22:43
True... Im Done Now... Ive been finished a few Months Now.... Once i learned TF= Global Spindle Master Scare every thing Fell into place and it all made sence.

TF should Have Been Named Spindle Force or Something... The Name is Very Miss leading... TF Gives the impression that it sets TF as in wheel Weight.... TF Doesnt suggest it affects the Whole Suspension FFB output... That simple Fact Greatly Confounded Me for Months:confused:

Hmm!!!! You was testing settings not too long ago when FFB talk started again so maybe your not a hundred percent lmao. In pcars you have the one you like but you can run multiple different ways and yes grimey you too like too find a new feel or something that feels good or better. So to end this chapter RUN WHAT YOU LIKE ALWAYS SEARCHING now thats keeping it real GRIP Rip

GrimeyDog
23-03-2017, 01:11
Hmm!!!! You was testing settings not too long ago when FFB talk started again so maybe your not a hundred percent lmao. In pcars you have the one you like but you can run multiple different ways and yes grimey you too like too find a new feel or something that feels good or better. So to end this chapter RUN WHAT YOU LIKE ALWAYS SEARCHING now thats keeping it real GRIP Rip

I havent Changed any setting in over 1 year!!! Look at when i posted the 1st TF/RAC PDF next month makes 1 year and i havent changed any settings before that... I just kept updating the PDF with Better info/Wording:yes:

I will Make Videos to Show what Different things do this -VS- that as far as My settings go but Nope im 1 and Done Tweeking...

I was Compairing the FFB Pcars, AMS, rF2 and they all actually Feel about the same... rF2 FFB feels a bit Exagerated and the Steering has input lag IMO... I have My Wheel set to Aut... Is there a way to let game set Auto DOR for rF2 & AMS??? I think i had it on but steering still feels Lazy... Same for AMS I tested 360 and the Highest + Real feel Setting... Feels Really Good but again steering Feels Lazy like DOR was Not Auto Set...I really cant Feel where 1 would be better than the other FFB wise.

GrimeyDog
23-03-2017, 01:34
I been trying out different cars in Gt3 class...Gt3 Ruf I Do Really Good online with it...I get alotta wins with it and I can keep up with Some Aliens also in it but I Never Could Figure out why some people just walk away from Me on the Straights even with a draft some time!!!... I was Just Running the Aston Martin on Watkins Short and that thing Laps 1:06.5xx No Problem!!! I hit 10 laps in a Row @ 1:06.5xx --> 1:06:8xx No Problem!!! Stock Suspension too!!! Holy Shizzle Have i been Driving the wrong Car!!!!.... Best part is i use same exact FFB settings Every Car so the FFB is Very Much the same but just Different because the Cars Have different Handling Characteristics.... But Nothing outta the Blue or unexpected.

Gonna Make the Aston Martin My 2nd Go to Car for tracks with Long Straights.... I Never Realized exactly how slow the Stock Ruf is on long Straights:confused:

hkraft300
23-03-2017, 05:25
Aston v12 (GT3 + LMP1) is a beast.
I use same ffb for Every car (default fx/y/z etc, no sop just increased Ms now). I like to think it brings a consistent feedback from different cars but honest truth is cbf tweaking the cars individually lol what a pain in the rear end.
Anyway drove the Sauber (default) at spa this morning and with the jacked TF (100) and the clamp+bleed working nicely it felt bloody brilliant through eu rouge, kerbs through pouhon, sideways out of radillion.
G29 has suddenly come alive.
Thanks again grimey. Need to post my settings when I get back on tomorrow.

ShneebnaMRR108
23-03-2017, 14:06
Big thanks to all you guys for all the time put into understanding and solving the FFB issues. I have a renewed sense of satisfaction and understanding with PC now. The Relative Adjust section reminds me of a professional audio compressor in the controls and the way it works, oddly similar.

GrimeyDog
24-03-2017, 11:36
All Fanatec wheel users New FW oisted this Morning on Fanatec wheel site!!! CSW v2/v2.5 & CSL wheels!!!!
Seems it will be a Good Weekend for Racing... Vrooom Vrooom!!!

GrimeyDog
24-03-2017, 11:47
Big thanks to all you guys for all the time put into understanding and solving the FFB issues. I have a renewed sense of satisfaction and understanding with PC now. The Relative Adjust section reminds me of a professional audio compressor in the controls and the way it works, oddly similar.

TF and RAC being properly Balanced is the Key to Avoid Clipping!!! RAC from Testing has showed its self to be the Most Important part when it comes to Avoiding Clipping issues.... TF will Mostly Add more wheel weight and FFB saturation but will Not cause Clipping if RAC is set to Correctly Compensate.

1)Fx, Fy,Fz,Mz, sets saturation of the individual Forces those settings control
2)in Car Masters blend the FFB forces as 1 before TF
3) TF( Global Soindal Master Scale) Sets FFB level of all Forces Combined as 1 signal Before Relative system.

RAG sets power Limit of FFB System 1.00/100=100% power Never a Need to raise this above 100/1.00
RAG Bleeds off Piwer to Create Changes in wheel weight Creating FFB effects Feel
RAC sets Power Cut off Point to FFB forces.... But Remember Just because you cut power to FFB forces EX:@ 75 the FFB Spikes/Power wikl continue to Rise until the Residual FFB power Dissapates.

charliev69
24-03-2017, 11:50
All Fanatec wheel users New FW oisted this Morning on Fanatec wheel site!!! CSW v2/v2.5 & CSL wheels!!!!
Seems it will be a Good Weekend for Racing... Vrooom Vrooom!!!

Hi Grimey , how you doin ?

Do you have any problems updating firmware on your pedals , as the're connected to your wheel and not USB ?
I always thought we had to have them connected to the PC by USB .

:)

GrimeyDog
24-03-2017, 12:15
Hi Grimey , how you doin ?

Do you have any problems updating firmware on your pedals , as the're connected to your wheel and not USB ?
I always thought we had to have them connected to the PC by USB .

:)

What up Dude :loyal: Nope No probs at all... I have a USB cord connected to the Pedals that i Only plug into PC when i Need to update pedals.... EX: wheel Must Be OFF!!! Plug pedals in PC update, Unplug when Pedal update is Done ... works just fine...

I leave the USB plugged into Pedals all the time just Not Plugged into PC that way i dont have to Take the pedals up every time i update them.

Infact i find that the Higer Resolution Given by Connecting to Pedals to PC dierectly has a negative effect on My Driving because the Higher Resolution Slows Pedal input Reation Time!!!

charliev69
24-03-2017, 14:20
What up Dude :loyal: Nope No probs at all... I have a USB cord connected to the Pedals that i Only plug into PC when i Need to update pedals.... EX: wheel Must Be OFF!!! Plug pedals in PC update, Unplug when Pedal update is Done ... works just fine...

I leave the USB plugged into Pedals all the time just Not Plugged into PC that way i dont have to Take the pedals up every time i update them.

Infact i find that the Higer Resolution Given by Connecting to Pedals to PC dierectly has a negative effect on My Driving because the Higher Resolution Slows Pedal input Reation Time!!!

Got it !!

... and apparently both connection methods are 12 bit , according to the data on the Fana CSP3 web page .

I made the change to the wheel connection as a recent Pcars2 build didnt like USB pedals , but I'm sticking with it now as I get brake pedal vibration :)

thanks and happy racing .

:)

Woffu
25-03-2017, 14:59
Hey guys need a bit of help. Just got my pc today. Installed pcars then the t300 force feedback driver and control panel where do i look to see if the driver is installed? Went into the control panel to see if my wheel was working and all works so i go into gain part set the gain to 68 because that's the force feedback i used on ps4 and set the spring and damper to 0. Start the game and enter in PS4 ffb settings which are morpwr's settings. Go to track and enter jacks settings and went for a drive and the wheel is super light and I can only just feel the ffb. Rechecked settings and tryed again and still the same. Any ideas?
Where do you guys plug your wheel into? I wasn't sure so I plugged mine into one of the front USB ports. Not sure if I should of tryed the motherboard? And does it matter about the 2.0 or 3.0 mines in the front 3.0 plug.
Also how have yous got your tv's plugged in? I tryed setting up my vr as well but it told me to plug the hdmi cable into the graphics card but that's the only hdmi port that displays on my tv the motherboard hdmi port won't work.
I'm off to bed so I'll try again tomorrow

Haiden
25-03-2017, 16:23
Hey guys need a bit of help. Just got my pc today. Installed pcars then the t300 force feedback driver and control panel where do i look to see if the driver is installed? Went into the control panel to see if my wheel was working and all works so i go into gain part set the gain to 68 because that's the force feedback i used on ps4 and set the spring and damper to 0. Start the game and enter in PS4 ffb settings which are morpwr's settings. Go to track and enter jacks settings and went for a drive and the wheel is super light and I can only just feel the ffb. Rechecked settings and tryed again and still the same. Any ideas?
Where do you guys plug your wheel into? I wasn't sure so I plugged mine into one of the front USB ports. Not sure if I should of tryed the motherboard? And does it matter about the 2.0 or 3.0 mines in the front 3.0 plug.
Also how have yous got your tv's plugged in? I tryed setting up my vr as well but it told me to plug the hdmi cable into the graphics card but that's the only hdmi port that displays on my tv the motherboard hdmi port won't work.
I'm off to bed so I'll try again tomorrow


Not sure about the T300, but reducing the Spring to 0 on the CSW-V2 doesn't feel right to me. IIRC, it felt too light. Both the @wheel Damper and control panel damper are set to 100 on mine.

I plug my wheel hardware into 3.0 ports. But you'll need at least two 3.0 ports for VR, so if you have enough, plug the wheel and pedals into a 3.0, as well. Not sure if that's needed, but if you have them, use them.

You'll need to get a display port to HDMI adapter. My card has 3 display port connections and 1 HDMI. I just picked up an adapter and run the TV from a display port. :)

Woffu
26-03-2017, 03:39
Not sure about the T300, but reducing the Spring to 0 on the CSW-V2 doesn't feel right to me. IIRC, it felt too light. Both the @wheel Damper and control panel damper are set to 100 on mine.

I plug my wheel hardware into 3.0 ports. But you'll need at least two 3.0 ports for VR, so if you have enough, plug the wheel and pedals into a 3.0, as well. Not sure if that's needed, but if you have them, use them.

You'll need to get a display port to HDMI adapter. My card has 3 display port connections and 1 HDMI. I just picked up an adapter and run the TV from a display port. :)

Just tryed turning the spring and damper settings back to 100 but that didn't change anything still a very light wheel. I put both the ffb controls on 75 they where 68 and that made it a bit better but still very light tryed a few laps with other cars and different tracks but still the same very light wheel and I can't tell what the car is doing. I reinstalled the ffb driver but still the same.
I turned steering gain up to 1.50 from 1.00 the default was set at 2.00 but on PS4 the default is 1.00. After putting it to 1.50 that made it better but it still doesn't feel like it did on PS4. I don't know why my PS4 settings won't transfer over to pc like all of yours did.

Woffu
26-03-2017, 08:26
i plugged mm wheel back into my PS4 to check there wasn't a problem with my wheel and it all work the way it should nice ffb and good wheel weight. Then plugged my wheel back into pc check all settings are right and go for
a drive and the wheel is still very very light. The only way I can get the wheel weight back to the same as on PS4 is to put steering gain to 1.75.
Not sure if something went wrong installing the game or what. I'll have to get ac or rf2 to see how the wheel goes in them games

Haiden
26-03-2017, 14:16
i plugged mm wheel back into my PS4 to check there wasn't a problem with my wheel and it all work the way it should nice ffb and good wheel weight. Then plugged my wheel back into pc check all settings are right and go for
a drive and the wheel is still very very light. The only way I can get the wheel weight back to the same as on PS4 is to put steering gain to 1.75.
Not sure if something went wrong installing the game or what. I'll have to get ac or rf2 to see how the wheel goes in them games

Not sure why you're having a difference experience. The default setting for FF in PCars is 50 I believe. If you haven't, you need to raise that to 100, and then adjust the @wheel FF. Other than that, I didn't make any other changes to my FFB when I switched to PC.

morpwr
26-03-2017, 15:20
Hey guys need a bit of help. Just got my pc today. Installed pcars then the t300 force feedback driver and control panel where do i look to see if the driver is installed? Went into the control panel to see if my wheel was working and all works so i go into gain part set the gain to 68 because that's the force feedback i used on ps4 and set the spring and damper to 0. Start the game and enter in PS4 ffb settings which are morpwr's settings. Go to track and enter jacks settings and went for a drive and the wheel is super light and I can only just feel the ffb. Rechecked settings and tryed again and still the same. Any ideas?
Where do you guys plug your wheel into? I wasn't sure so I plugged mine into one of the front USB ports. Not sure if I should of tryed the motherboard? And does it matter about the 2.0 or 3.0 mines in the front 3.0 plug.
Also how have yous got your tv's plugged in? I tryed setting up my vr as well but it told me to plug the hdmi cable into the graphics card but that's the only hdmi port that displays on my tv the motherboard hdmi port won't work.
I'm off to bed so I'll try again tomorrow

Set the gain in the wheel control panel to 68 and make sure the game ffb is set to 100 if I remember right it is set to 75 default. But I can say after switching to pc even with the pc racer I just leave it at the default 75 for every game I play. The headset should work with an adapter for the other port on the graphics card. That's how mine is. Luckily I had an adapter laying around the night I set mine up.

GrimeyDog
26-03-2017, 16:31
Every thing is Better using VR!!! I Had a Nice Go with AC in VR and it was a Blast... The AI are Robotic and Dumb Not Strategicy Challenging at all... They just drive the same line over and over but the overal the Driving is Ok... Its like a whole Race of Hot Lapping...Its all about racing the clock Because AI do Not make Strategic or Challenging moves.

The AI in Pcars will Jump the Dam Curb to Get around you!!! its Sorta Crap but Makes for a Great Race!!! I set AI to 100% and you either Have to Drive like a Mad Man to Catch them or Drive Like a Mad Man and Defend Every Corner inside line because the AI will Go for it!!!

My AC settings are Default... I made No Changes except for Button Mapping.
Honestly I use the same on wheel settings on both Games (profile #1) and i Honestly cant say that 1 has a better Feel than the other Pcars -VS- AC..... In turns Pcars Has More weight transfer feel/ Larger Stronger Variations to wheel weight while AC has More Faster Smaller Movements at Wheel center to Simulate tire Scrub.

morpwr
26-03-2017, 17:30
Every thing is Better using VR!!! I Had a Nice Go with AC in VR and it was a Blast... The AI are Robotic and Dumb Not Strategicy Challenging at all... They just drive the same line over and over but the overal the Driving is Ok... Its like a whole Race of Hot Lapping...Its all about racing the clock Because AI do Not make Strategic or Challenging moves.

The AI in Pcars will Jump the Dam Curb to Get around you!!! its Sorta Crap but Makes for a Great Race!!! I set AI to 100% and you either Have to Drive like a Mad Man to Catch them or Drive Like a Mad Man and Defend Every Corner inside line because the AI will Go for it!!!

My AC settings are Default... I made No Changes except for Button Mapping.
Honestly I use the same on wheel settings on both Games (profile #1) and i Honestly cant say that 1 has a better Feel than the other Pcars -VS- AC..... In turns Pcars Has More weight transfer feel/ Larger Stronger Variations to wheel weight while AC has More Faster Smaller Movements at Wheel center to Simulate tire Scrub.

You didn't get the app for the ffb in ac yet? Setting the in car gain right in ac is very important to getting everything out of the ffb. Same goes for r3e. I f you get the app for ac it just sets the car gain for you. Pretty much set and forget once you drive a car and track once.

GrimeyDog
26-03-2017, 19:22
Where do i get the app at for AC/R3E???

In AC i have the Clipping Meter up and it rarely lights red and when it does its onlt abfraction of a second.... But i would like to yry the app... I dunno maybe its in there does it auto install with updates???

Woffu
26-03-2017, 21:26
Set the gain in the wheel control panel to 68 and make sure the game ffb is set to 100 if I remember right it is set to 75 default. But I can say after switching to pc even with the pc racer I just leave it at the default 75 for every game I play. The headset should work with an adapter for the other port on the graphics card. That's how mine is. Luckily I had an adapter laying around the night I set mine up.
Ok I must of miss understood some info I tryed reading as much info as I could to make it easier switching to pc. So when I get home I'll go into the wheel control panel set the gain to 68 then go into the game and turn up the in game ffb to 100 instead of 75. So is this how you have your settings morpwr wheel control panel gain set to 75, in game ffb set to 100 instead of 68?

I'll have to buy and display adapter hopefully an get one tonight.

Woffu
26-03-2017, 22:47
Not sure why you're having a difference experience. The default setting for FF in PCars is 50 I believe. If you haven't, you need to raise that to 100, and then adjust the @wheel FF. Other than that, I didn't make any other changes to my FFB when I switched to PC.

With the t300 the default ff is 75 but I'll raise that up to 100 and put steering gain back to 1.0 and hopefully that's what I was doing wrong. Will see how it goes when I get home. Other then my ffb problems every thing else in the game is much better

I now know what yous mean with the ai they are so much better on pc took me awhile to get used to

Haiden
26-03-2017, 23:55
Where do i get the app at for AC/R3E???

In AC i have the Clipping Meter up and it rarely lights red and when it does its onlt abfraction of a second.... But i would like to yry the app... I dunno maybe its in there does it auto install with updates???

http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/ffbclip-app.7910/

You can set the default mode (Auto, Manual, or Dymanic) in the .ini file.

morpwr
27-03-2017, 00:48
Ok I must of miss understood some info I tryed reading as much info as I could to make it easier switching to pc. So when I get home I'll go into the wheel control panel set the gain to 68 then go into the game and turn up the in game ffb to 100 instead of 75. So is this how you have your settings morpwr wheel control panel gain set to 75, in game ffb set to 100 instead of 68?

I'll have to buy and display adapter hopefully an get one tonight.

Yes That's how mine is. Wait until you get to play ac and r3e on pc.:) Especially in vr. The sound and ai in r3e are some of the best and the sound in ac seems to be improving lately.

konnos
27-03-2017, 07:52
Where do i get the app at for AC/R3E???

In AC i have the Clipping Meter up and it rarely lights red and when it does its onlt abfraction of a second.... But i would like to yry the app... I dunno maybe its in there does it auto install with updates???

Yes it's the one Haiden linked. While auto mode can be convenient, I suggest putting it on Manual and also press Histogram to show it like the one you are used to in PCars. I find the auto mode lowers the FFB % a little from what I would like it to be. So I just leave it at auto and hit + or - on the lap so that it doesn't clip anywhere, or just let it clip on a hard uphill corner if i find it overall soft in that car.

Woffu
27-03-2017, 13:15
Thanks for all the help guys I just need to turn up in game ffb and now it feels great i also got my vr working and it was one of the best experiences evey. Now I just need to work out how to get rid of some stuttering with the visual settings and it will be all good. Makes it hard when they don't tell ya what things do.
Cheers for the help

morpwr
27-03-2017, 13:20
Thanks for all the help guys I just need to turn up in game ffb and now it feels great i also got my vr working and it was one of the best experiences evey. Now I just need to work out how to get rid of some stuttering with the visual settings and it will be all good. Makes it hard when they don't tell ya what things do.
Cheers for the help

How many cars are you running for the ai? I'm surprised you get any stuttering with that pc. It may just be a case of too many ai.

Woffu
27-03-2017, 13:55
How many cars are you running for the ai? I'm surprised you get any stuttering with that pc. It may just be a case of too many ai.
When I first played it in vr I was just in free practice trying different cars and tracks and it was awesome no stuttering then i had a brake. When i started again i tryed a race with 35 cars at bathurst with weather settings clear light cloud medium cloud and that's when i noticed stuttering so i turned down some visual settings had tryed 25 cars same track and it was still bad so I went back into free practice but the stuttering was still bad and it seams like very time it stutters there cracking in the ear phones. Will try again tomorrow.
The joys of getting a gaming pc for the very first time.

Woffu
27-03-2017, 14:11
If anyone has any tips on what visual settings would be best for my system id appreciate it still very new to this

morpwr
27-03-2017, 14:19
If anyone has any tips on what visual settings would be best for my system id appreciate it still very new to this

Do you have the NVidia control panel that does it for you? Just let it optimize the settings for you. With the pc specs you have you shouldn't have any problem pretty much maxing everything.

Haiden
27-03-2017, 15:17
When I first played it in vr I was just in free practice trying different cars and tracks and it was awesome no stuttering then i had a brake. When i started again i tryed a race with 35 cars at bathurst with weather settings clear light cloud medium cloud and that's when i noticed stuttering so i turned down some visual settings had tryed 25 cars same track and it was still bad so I went back into free practice but the stuttering was still bad and it seams like very time it stutters there cracking in the ear phones. Will try again tomorrow.
The joys of getting a gaming pc for the very first time.


Do you have the NVidia control panel that does it for you? Just let it optimize the settings for you. With the pc specs you have you shouldn't have any problem pretty much maxing everything.

I don't know. Most people I've seen in forums with GTX 1080s are still having trouble getting 90 fps with everything max'd. The biggest culprit with VR is AA. Unfortunately, PCars is the one title that needs AA more than others. Running AA, you might have to lower your visual settings a bit. Make sure the post processing effects are turned off, then lower your detail settings to medium and turn off Motion Blur. That should give you a solid 90 fps with a decent size grid (15- 21 cars). You can then start increasing visual settings form there, until your frame rate takes a hit you can't live with. :)


Question... Does anyone know how to control the pixel density in PCars; VR? You can modify the Oculus .ini file in AC, and in R3E, you can set it with a launch string. Anyone know how to do it in PCars, or what the default pixel density is? Is it 1.5?

Roger Prynne
27-03-2017, 16:08
I don't know. Most people I've seen in forums with GTX 1080s are still having trouble getting 90 fps with everything max'd. The biggest culprit with VR is AA. Unfortunately, PCars is the one title that needs AA more than others. Running AA, you might have to lower your visual settings a bit. Make sure the post processing effects are turned off, then lower your detail settings to medium and turn off Motion Blur. That should give you a solid 90 fps with a decent size grid (15- 21 cars). You can then start increasing visual settings form there, until your frame rate takes a hit you can't live with. :)


Question... Does anyone know how to control the pixel density in PCars; VR? You can modify the Oculus .ini file in AC, and in R3E, you can set it with a launch string. Anyone know how to do it in PCars, or what the default pixel density is? Is it 1.5?

You might be better off asking here instead...... http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/forumdisplay.php?139-Virtual-Reality-Devices-Support

GrimeyDog
27-03-2017, 16:30
I don't know. Most people I've seen in forums with GTX 1080s are still having trouble getting 90 fps with everything max'd. The biggest culprit with VR is AA. Unfortunately, PCars is the one title that needs AA more than others. Running AA, you might have to lower your visual settings a bit. Make sure the post processing effects are turned off, then lower your detail settings to medium and turn off Motion Blur. That should give you a solid 90 fps with a decent size grid (15- 21 cars). You can then start increasing visual settings form there, until your frame rate takes a hit you can't live with. :)


Question... Does anyone know how to control the pixel density in PCars; VR? You can modify the Oculus .ini file in AC, and in R3E, you can set it with a launch string. Anyone know how to do it in PCars, or what the default pixel density is? Is it 1.5?


You can turn up Super sampling in the ini file... I Run Mine at 1.15 ... 1.5 is too Much FPS takes too big a Hit with No Real Gain
also turn Track texture to Med or High...I use high but othr settings are on Med to low... I forget what the other settings are set to.... Track ultra is too big a hit on FPS again with No Benefit, Car Detail High...Oculus is 1080p so we dont see any benefit from any ultra settings, Grass Off and 15+you=16 car Grid i can run thundestorm and Get 90fps like that with Nice Visuals, No Stutter, No Tearing.

I posted My settings in the Oculus VR thread a while Back... You can probly + on some settings because you have a 1080.

morpwr
27-03-2017, 17:16
You can turn up Super sampling in the ini file... I Run Mine at 1.15 ... 1.5 is too Much FPS takes too big a Hit with No Real Gain
also turn Track texture to Med or High...I use high but othr settings are on Med to low... I forget what the other settings are set to.... Track ultra is too big a hit on FPS again with No Benefit, Car Detail High...Oculus is 1080p so we dont see any benefit from any ultra settings, Grass Off and 15+you=16 car Grid i can run thundestorm and Get 90fps like that with Nice Visuals, No Stutter, No Tearing.

I posted My settings in the Oculus VR thread a while Back... You can probly + on some settings because you have a 1080.

That's my only real complaint about pcars in vr is the shimmering on fences. Its really distracting which is weird because a lot of the stuff I see people complain about I don't notice at all.

Haiden
27-03-2017, 20:40
You can turn up Super sampling in the ini file... I Run Mine at 1.15 ... 1.5 is too Much FPS takes too big a Hit with No Real Gain
also turn Track texture to Med or High...I use high but othr settings are on Med to low... I forget what the other settings are set to.... Track ultra is too big a hit on FPS again with No Benefit, Car Detail High...Oculus is 1080p so we dont see any benefit from any ultra settings, Grass Off and 15+you=16 car Grid i can run thundestorm and Get 90fps like that with Nice Visuals, No Stutter, No Tearing.

I posted My settings in the Oculus VR thread a while Back... You can probly + on some settings because you have a 1080.

You get 90 fps in thunderstorms?


That's my only real complaint about pcars in vr is the shimmering on fences. Its really distracting which is weird because a lot of the stuff I see people complain about I don't notice at all.

AA is terrible in PCars, always has been. I'll try boosting the pixel density. It doesn't look terrible with it at default, but the anything to reduce the shimmering effect would be nice. Both AC and R3E look pretty good with higher scaling. I can actually run AC with medium settings and 2x AA and still maintain 90 fps. It looks pretty good with AA. When I have time, I might try figuring out how high I can get the density with AA disabled.

GrimeyDog
27-03-2017, 22:19
You get 90 fps in thunderstorms?



AA is terrible in PCars, always has been. I'll try boosting the pixel density. It doesn't look terrible with it at default, but the anything to reduce the shimmering effect would be nice. Both AC and R3E look pretty good with higher scaling. I can actually run AC with medium settings and 2x AA and still maintain 90 fps. It looks pretty good with AA. When I have time, I might try figuring out how high I can get the density with AA disabled.


http://youtu.be/xKl_s3rZo4w

I Guess 90 well at least Looks like 90...LOL... most of the time I'm not checking the FPS counter wearing Oculus... When Load gets Heavy the Asycronus Space warp thingy pins the FPS to 45 so i guess that's 45per eye??? Don't Quote Me because I dunno exact Science of it.... All i know is if you watch the Video everything is silky Smooth... that's what Matters Most... No Glitching or Screen Tearing....

The FPS Goes way up in Good weather!!! But still basically the same... once i got it so there was No Glitching or Screen tearing i don't bother with it....I cant tell the Diff between when the Asyncronus space warp thingy kicks in and pure FPS.

Also Don't launch Pcars using Steam VR... i click on the Tab and Tell it to Launch using Oculus Rift Mode... This Mode Looks better IMO.. The Steam VR settings must be Different and im Not gonna go tweek them...that would be a waste of time because Oculus Rift Mode works sooo well.

Haiden
28-03-2017, 00:51
I Guess 90 well at least Looks like 90...LOL... most of the time I'm not checking the FPS counter wearing Oculus... When Load gets Heavy the Asycronus Space warp thingy pins the FPS to 45 so i guess that's 45per eye??? Don't Quote Me because I dunno exact Science of it.... All i know is if you watch the Video everything is silky Smooth... that's what Matters Most... No Glitching or Screen Tearing....

The FPS Goes way up in Good weather!!! But still basically the same... once i got it so there was No Glitching or Screen tearing i don't bother with it....I cant tell the Diff between when the Asyncronus space warp thingy kicks in and pure FPS.

Also Don't launch Pcars using Steam VR... i click on the Tab and Tell it to Launch using Oculus Rift Mode... This Mode Looks better IMO.. The Steam VR settings must be Different and im Not gonna go tweek them...that would be a waste of time because Oculus Rift Mode works sooo well.

Yeah... that's 45 fps. When it's 90, it'll show in the NVidia counter, as well. The ASW/ATW just fills in the lost frames. It works pretty well, actually. I was never really able to tell when it engaged. You can disable it by pressing CTRL+1. You won't see any indication that ASW is off, though, other than the frame rate blowing the 45 fps cap. But if you do it when you're not pushing a steady 90 fps, you might see some stuttering. I'd be surprised if you ever get 90 fps in storm conditions with medium/high settings. I was able to get AC and R3E running 90 fps easily, across the board. I can even get 90 fps in AC with 2x AA and medium/high settings. But PCars took a little tweaking, and I had to turn off the AA and find the right mix of med/hi settings. I can get 90 fps in normal conditions (maybe light rain, too--haven't tried that), but not in storm conditions.

Do you not use Crew Chief?

morpwr
28-03-2017, 01:21
ok why cant I edit that line to raise the resolution?

GrimeyDog
28-03-2017, 01:22
Yeah... that's 45 fps. When it's 90, it'll show in the NVidia counter, as well. The ASW/ATW just fills in the lost frames. It works pretty well, actually. I was never really able to tell when it engaged. You can disable it by pressing CTRL+1. You won't see any indication that ASW is off, though, other than the frame rate blowing the 45 fps cap. But if you do it when you're not pushing a steady 90 fps, you might see some stuttering. I'd be surprised if you ever get 90 fps in storm conditions with medium/high settings. I was able to get AC and R3E running 90 fps easily, across the board. I can even get 90 fps in AC with 2x AA and medium/high settings. But PCars took a little tweaking, and I had to turn off the AA and find the right mix of med/hi settings. I can get 90 fps in normal conditions (maybe light rain, too--haven't tried that), but not in storm conditions.

Do you not use Crew Chief?

I have Crew chief but i don't use it much... i thought about it but i have to set it up better...right now the guy talks tooo dam much...LOL.
i forget how i set it but the dude really blabs a whole lot...LOL... I just need it for when some one is on My side or i can get the laps times so i can Pace right according to the car in back or in front... i Blew a few races pushing Hard and i didn't have to...also blew a few races checking the + or - distance time on screen so Now i just focus and race and i check when i can if i can... crew cheif would be great for that so i just focus on the road.

GrimeyDog
28-03-2017, 01:26
ok why cant I edit that line to raise the resolution?

are you using "notepad++" do it the same way you edit tweeker files

morpwr
28-03-2017, 10:45
I have Crew chief but i don't use it much... i thought about it but i have to set it up better...right now the guy talks tooo dam much...LOL.
i forget how i set it but the dude really blabs a whole lot...LOL... I just need it for when some one is on My side or i can get the laps times so i can Pace right according to the car in back or in front... i Blew a few races pushing Hard and i didn't have to...also blew a few races checking the + or - distance time on screen so Now i just focus and race and i check when i can if i can... crew cheif would be great for that so i just focus on the road.

With the last update to crewchief its a must have. Always was for me at least but now it even better. If you ask him can probably even add grimeydog to the names. But now he tells you if youre gain or losing time and where someone is faster then you. He tells you where yellow flags happened to now if the corner has a name and who was involved. You can turn down the frequency of comments but I highly recommend turning on the pearls of wisdom for when youre screwing up. Always gives me a good chuckle and gets me focused again.

morpwr
28-03-2017, 10:47
are you using "notepad++" do it the same way you edit tweeker files

That's what I forgot. It was a long day at work.

morpwr
28-03-2017, 11:05
Yeah... that's 45 fps. When it's 90, it'll show in the NVidia counter, as well. The ASW/ATW just fills in the lost frames. It works pretty well, actually. I was never really able to tell when it engaged. You can disable it by pressing CTRL+1. You won't see any indication that ASW is off, though, other than the frame rate blowing the 45 fps cap. But if you do it when you're not pushing a steady 90 fps, you might see some stuttering. I'd be surprised if you ever get 90 fps in storm conditions with medium/high settings. I was able to get AC and R3E running 90 fps easily, across the board. I can even get 90 fps in AC with 2x AA and medium/high settings. But PCars took a little tweaking, and I had to turn off the AA and find the right mix of med/hi settings. I can get 90 fps in normal conditions (maybe light rain, too--haven't tried that), but not in storm conditions.

Do you not use Crew Chief?

I don't understand why you guys cant run higher settings. I went back and checked last night all the important settings at ultra which I agree with grimey you probably cant notice now and other then shadows and grass at low settings I don't notice any issues at with 21 car fields.(20 plus me) Now I will say I have no idea what the fps are in pcars and ill check ac again but ive never seen low fps in ac. Even in ac I have most stuff maxed and last time I played ppd was at 3.0 just to try it. Even that didn't cause issues. I am overclocked but I don't think that's would account for much I'm only at 4.2 nothing crazy because I didn't want heat issues. I did run across something in the ac forums though (I think that's where I saw it) talking about vr. Something about making sure pcie 3.0 was turned on in bios for the graphics card because it worth like 20-25 fps. Don't quote me on that I just know it was something about making sure it was on in the bios. I will say I did get some skips when I ran spa in a thunderstorm but that's the only time ive noticed it and of course I could probably drop the settings down from ultra.

Haiden
28-03-2017, 11:24
I don't understand why you guys cant run higher settings. I went back and checked last night all the important settings at ultra which I agree with grimey you probably cant notice now and other then shadows and grass at low settings I don't notice any issues at with 21 car fields.(20 plus me) Now I will say I have no idea what the fps are in pcars and ill check ac again but ive never seen low fps in ac. Even in ac I have most stuff maxed and last time I played ppd was at 3.0 just to try it. Even that didn't cause issues. I am overclocked but I don't think that's would account for much I'm only at 4.2 nothing crazy because I didn't want heat issues. I did run across something in the ac forums though (I think that's where I saw it) talking about vr. Something about making sure pcie 3.0 was turned on in bios for the graphics card because it worth like 20-25 fps. Don't quote me on that I just know it was something about making sure it was on in the bios. I will say I did get some skips when I ran spa in a thunderstorm but that's the only time ive noticed it and of course I could probably drop the settings down from ultra.

I bet any money you're only getting 45 fps. If you've just been basing it on what you see, you can't tell when ATW kicks in. That's why I asked you about it before. Until looking at the fps meter, I didn't realize I was getting 45 fps with ASW. That's what it's for, so it does work well. But I find it hard to believe you're getting 90 fps with ultra settings or even settings mostly above medium. If you are, you're pretty much the only person I know of. In every forum, or review or help video I've seen, no one with a GTX 1080 is getting 90 fps with high/ultra settings.

That's why I asked you about ATW, because at the time, I was confused because I had been playing for days, not realizing ATW it was keeping it at 45 fps. I was wondering if you'd noticed any difference and/or cared that it wasn't 90 fps. Apparently not. :)

Also, any pixel density over 2.5 seems to pretty much kill the frame rate, even with medium settings. If you're running ultra, with high pixel density, you should check your fps, because it's probably not nearly as high as you think it is.

GrimeyDog
28-03-2017, 12:29
Im Only Now getting into AC using VR... AC with VR you can Run Higher Settings because its Not as Graphically Demanding as Pcars...AC has Nice Graphics but Pcars Has More Layers to its Graphics... Ex Pcars you May have 3 layers of Clouds Moving at differen Speeds while AC will Have 1 Cloud moving ... This would expkain why VR settings can be Much Higher with AC and wont Kill FPS.

I have Not yet Raced online in AC... we should all Hook up and Make a Private room to Race in....I find AC easier to Drive than Pcars... It has Nothing to do with the FFB its the physics....Not that 1 is better than the other the cars in AC seem to be More Forgiving and allow more Room for mistakes.... I been Driving the C7 Corvette, the New Porsche and the Gt3 BMW on Mugello... I like Mugello alot..... The AI in AC sucs because they are sooo Robotic... Racing them is Like doing a Forza Car Pass Challenge.

GrimeyDog
28-03-2017, 12:40
By this time Next year SLI and VR should be here!!! they are already working on it!!! Thats when VR will Really Show its True potential!!!! as it is Now VR is Really a Game Changer!!!

Over the Summer im thinking 1080ti SLI upgrade before Pcars 2 Launches...DX12 is promising Good things for SLI.... or Multi GPU support in General because you can Mix and Match GOU cards!!! Thats Really a Big thing because its Cost effective!!! you can use your Current Card and buy a More powerful card to add to your system... Using the Stronger card for Graphics and use the weaker Card for Phsx...or Vice versa.

GrimeyDog
28-03-2017, 12:42
Im Only Now getting into AC using VR... AC with VR you can Run Higher Settings because its Not as Graphically Demanding as Pcars...AC has Nice Graphics but Pcars Has More Layers to its Graphics... Ex Pcars you May have 3 layers of Clouds Moving at differen Speeds while AC will Have 1 Cloud moving ... This would expkain why VR settings can be Much Higher with AC and wont Kill FPS.

I have Not yet Raced online in AC... we should all Hook up and Make a Private room to Race in....I find AC easier to Drive than Pcars... It has Nothing to do with the FFB its the physics....Not that 1 is better than the other the cars in AC seem to be More Forgiving and allow more Room for mistakes.... I been Driving the C7 Corvette, the New Porsche and the Gt3 BMW on Mugello... I like Mugello alot..... The AI in AC sucs because they are sooo Robotic... Racing them is Like doing a Forza Car Pass Challenge.

Edit: Why is it that you can only Race AC in VR but you cant Navigate the Dash Board?? they have to Fix that.

morpwr
28-03-2017, 13:08
I bet any money you're only getting 45 fps. If you've just been basing it on what you see, you can't tell when ATW kicks in. That's why I asked you about it before. Until looking at the fps meter, I didn't realize I was getting 45 fps with ASW. That's what it's for, so it does work well. But I find it hard to believe you're getting 90 fps with ultra settings or even settings mostly above medium. If you are, you're pretty much the only person I know of. In every forum, or review or help video I've seen, no one with a GTX 1080 is getting 90 fps with high/ultra settings.

That's why I asked you about ATW, because at the time, I was confused because I had been playing for days, not realizing ATW it was keeping it at 45 fps. I was wondering if you'd noticed any difference and/or cared that it wasn't 90 fps. Apparently not. :)

Also, any pixel density over 2.5 seems to pretty much kill the frame rate, even with medium settings. If you're running ultra, with high pixel density, you should check your fps, because it's probably not nearly as high as you think it is.


Could be ill have to check the frame rates and see what I'm getting. In ac I didn't notice any difference while playing at 3.0 and only tried it just to see if I could make it bad. So far no.

Haiden
28-03-2017, 13:19
Edit: Why is it that you can only Race AC in VR but you cant Navigate the Dash Board?? they have to Fix that.

Because AC calls the VR load when the session is loading, not when the game is loading. They do need to fix that. It's a bit annoying.


Could be ill have to check the frame rates and see what I'm getting. In ac I didn't notice any difference while playing at 3.0 and only tried it just to see if I could make it bad. So far no.

ATW really doesn't create any noticeable difference, especially if you've been using it for a while. Remember 45 fps in Thunderstorm conditions in PCars looks fine. Same in VR. You need to check the counter to see the fps rate. I thought/assumed I was getting 90 fps, too, because there was no stuttering or tearing, and image flow was smooth. But it was being throttled.

Haiden
28-03-2017, 13:37
With the last update to crewchief its a must have. Always was for me at least but now it even better. If you ask him can probably even add grimeydog to the names. But now he tells you if youre gain or losing time and where someone is faster then you. He tells you where yellow flags happened to now if the corner has a name and who was involved. You can turn down the frequency of comments but I highly recommend turning on the pearls of wisdom for when youre screwing up. Always gives me a good chuckle and gets me focused again.

Does it still make spotter calls in AC? Since the update, I get all the new corner-specific calls and car related info, but he won't call cars alongside anymore in AC. Still does in the other titles, just not AC.

GrimeyDog
28-03-2017, 15:03
With the last update to crewchief its a must have. Always was for me at least but now it even better. If you ask him can probably even add grimeydog to the names. But now he tells you if youre gain or losing time and where someone is faster then you. He tells you where yellow flags happened to now if the corner has a name and who was involved. You can turn down the frequency of comments but I highly recommend turning on the pearls of wisdom for when youre screwing up. Always gives me a good chuckle and gets me focused again.

Can you add Names to crew chief??? or do you mean ask the Dev to do it??? I dont even know who made it...LOL
Maybe the Devs should add all of our Names as we have all played a Big part in trying to help others get Pcars FFB right for their individual taste in FFB.

I may have Started the Thread but it was and still is all of us who had made the Thread sooo informative and hopefully helpful to most if Not All.

morpwr
28-03-2017, 15:35
Does it still make spotter calls in AC? Since the update, I get all the new corner-specific calls and car related info, but he won't call cars alongside anymore in AC. Still does in the other titles, just not AC.

You know that's a good question. I really don't know with all the new stuff he says I didn't notice.lol

morpwr
28-03-2017, 15:38
Can you add Names to crew chief??? or do you mean ask the Dev to do it??? I dont even know who made it...LOL
Maybe the Devs should add all of our Names as we have all played a Big part in trying to help others get Pcars FFB right for their individual taste in FFB.

I may have Started the Thread but it was and still is all of us who had made the Thread sooo informative and hopefully helpful to most if Not All.

You can get in touch with him right on this forum. Just go to the crew chief forum. But from what ive seen he is very receptive to adding names. Hes on the r3e forum all the time too. His name is mr belowski.

Haiden
28-03-2017, 16:51
You know that's a good question. I really don't know with all the new stuff he says I didn't notice.lol

Got an answer in the AC forums. Here's the fix. :)


Make sure to copy the updated CrewChiefEx folder usualy found here "C:\Program Files (x86)\Britton IT Ltd\CrewChiefV4" to "C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\apps\python\"

morpwr
28-03-2017, 17:44
Got an answer in the AC forums. Here's the fix. :)

Mine must work then because I did that. I think it told you to do that with the update. Go figure I actually read it that time.lol

GrimeyDog
28-03-2017, 18:04
Wait wait wait!!! You Mean there is a Crew Chief App just for PC!!!???
Where do i get it from??? Im still using Crew Chief from My Tablet:p WTF??? im Sooo behind... Again:(

Haiden
28-03-2017, 18:28
Mine must work then because I did that. I think it told you to do that with the update. Go figure I actually read it that time.lol

Oh, I think I know what happened, then. I kept delaying the update prior to this last one. I bet that one was the one with the instructions...LOL.


Wait wait wait!!! You Mean there is a Crew Chief App just for PC!!!???
Where do i get it from??? Im still using Crew Chief from My Tablet:p WTF??? im Sooo behind... Again:(

Yes. It's better than the console version--way more accurate and quick on the spotting. The link to the installer is in the Crew Chief forum thread.

morpwr
28-03-2017, 19:28
Oh, I think I know what happened, then. I kept delaying the update prior to this last one. I bet that one was the one with the instructions...LOL.



Yes. It's better than the console version--way more accurate and quick on the spotting. The link to the installer is in the Crew Chief forum thread.

Especially now that it knows the names of most corners. Which is good because maybe ill learn them if I hear them often enough.:p

morpwr
28-03-2017, 19:35
Wait wait wait!!! You Mean there is a Crew Chief App just for PC!!!???
Where do i get it from??? Im still using Crew Chief from My Tablet:p WTF??? im Sooo behind... Again:(

Grimeys slacking.....lol

Roger Prynne
28-03-2017, 22:06
Wait wait wait!!! You Mean there is a Crew Chief App just for PC!!!???
Where do i get it from??? Im still using Crew Chief from My Tablet:p WTF??? im Sooo behind... Again:(

You really are behind the times Grimey..... CrewChief was made for the PC long before the Android version :cower:

Woffu
28-03-2017, 22:53
Well I'm not sure what's going on with my system. Got home last night watched grimey's vr video put his setting in to start with. Went into free practice and everything was smooth as no stuttering or crackling in the ear phones did about 7 laps at oulton park. Then I set up at race with 21 cars including me at bathurst. The first 2 to 3 laps everything was fine no stuttering or anything then I started hearing a bit of cracking every now and then but now stuttering then a lap later the stuttering started I checked the temps to see if anything was getting hot but the hottest anything got was 61 degrees the gpu. I then went back into free practice and the problems where still there so I lowered all the detail settings to low but the problem was still there. Then when I was sitting in the menus thinking of what to try I turned my wheel and noticed the cracking in the ear phones so went into free practice and when I was coming out the pits everything was fine but as soon as I got on track and turned my wheel that's when the stuttering and cracking started again when I drive straight and look around it seams fine but when I turn my wheel it plays up.
So I'm now sure if it has anything to do with my wheel or something because both time Iv played in vr it works fine when i first start but when slowly gets worse the more I drive.
Only had a bit of time to play so I didn't get to do a reset or anything but I'll have more time tonight.
I might try playing it with a controller tonight and see if it plays up.
What resolution should I set it to? I some how changed it by mistake and can't remember what the default was

Haiden
29-03-2017, 00:05
Well I'm not sure what's going on with my system. Got home last night watched grimey's vr video put his setting in to start with. Went into free practice and everything was smooth as no stuttering or crackling in the ear phones did about 7 laps at oulton park. Then I set up at race with 21 cars including me at bathurst. The first 2 to 3 laps everything was fine no stuttering or anything then I started hearing a bit of cracking every now and then but now stuttering then a lap later the stuttering started I checked the temps to see if anything was getting hot but the hottest anything got was 61 degrees the gpu. I then went back into free practice and the problems where still there so I lowered all the detail settings to low but the problem was still there. Then when I was sitting in the menus thinking of what to try I turned my wheel and noticed the cracking in the ear phones so went into free practice and when I was coming out the pits everything was fine but as soon as I got on track and turned my wheel that's when the stuttering and cracking started again when I drive straight and look around it seams fine but when I turn my wheel it plays up.
So I'm now sure if it has anything to do with my wheel or something because both time Iv played in vr it works fine when i first start but when slowly gets worse the more I drive.
Only had a bit of time to play so I didn't get to do a reset or anything but I'll have more time tonight.
I might try playing it with a controller tonight and see if it plays up.
What resolution should I set it to? I some how changed it by mistake and can't remember what the default was

Strange. Try it with a controller or keyboard. I think it's 1920 x 1080, but I might be wrong. That's off the top of my head.

Woffu
29-03-2017, 00:17
Strange. Try it with a controller or keyboard. I think it's 1920 x 1080, but I might be wrong. That's off the top of my head.
Yes it is strange. Yea gunna try with a controller and also try a different USB port for my wheel if it works with the controller. Thanks for the resolution setting pretty sure I put it back to that settings

morpwr
29-03-2017, 10:52
Yes it is strange. Yea gunna try with a controller and also try a different USB port for my wheel if it works with the controller. Thanks for the resolution setting pretty sure I put it back to that settings

You don't have any usb extenders on or a usb hub? I would get another racing game and try the same setup you have now. To see if its a computer issue or hardware issue or game issue. I had issues with r3e crashing and it ended up being sonic studio that is part of the preinstalled software for the mobo.That program is used by a lot of companies also. Turns out that particular program causes issues with a lot of games so I just removed it.

morpwr
29-03-2017, 11:09
You don't have any usb extenders on or a usb hub? I would get another racing game and try the same setup you have now. To see if its a computer issue or hardware issue or game issue. I had issues with r3e crashing and it ended up being sonic studio that is part of the preinstalled software for the mobo.That program is used by a lot of companies also. Turns out that particular program causes issues with a lot of games so I just removed it.

Just had another thought. Your pc got shipped a long ways right? You may want to pop the side cover off and make sure everything is still plugged in all the way and hasn't worked itself partially out. That might cause what youre seeing once the computer builds some heat in it the connection wouldn't be as good due to expansion.

Woffu
29-03-2017, 11:34
Well I have no idea what's going on. Tonight I went straight into free practice and everything was fine so I just keeped on driving then I started to hear a bit of crackling but no stuttering then the cracking started to get worse and then the stuttering started so I drove real slow on the longest straight and didn't turn my wheel and everything was fine then i turned the wheel and the problems started so I checked how long I'd been driving for and it was 26 minutes. I went back out and turned the controller on and went back into free practice and everything looked fine I did 3 laps and no problems. I still had my wheel plugged in so i turned the wheel as I was using the controller and the problems started i stop turning the wheel and the problems stop turn my wheel and problems start so I have no idea where to start to try and solve this.
It seams like it has something to do with my wheel but my wheel feels fine with nice ffb.


I can't try another game because I can't get a lot of internet data where I live so I have to take my pc to my brothers to use his internet so I'll have to wait for the weekend to do that.

No i have everything plugged into the USB ports that are on my pc

morpwr
29-03-2017, 11:42
Well I have no idea what's going on. Tonight I went straight into free practice and everything was fine so I just keeped on driving then I started to hear a bit of crackling but no stuttering then the cracking started to get worse and then the stuttering started so I drove real slow on the longest straight and didn't turn my wheel and everything was fine then i turned the wheel and the problems started so I checked how long I'd been driving for and it was 26 minutes. I went back out and turned the controller on and went back into free practice and everything looked fine I did 3 laps and no problems. I still had my wheel plugged in so i turned the wheel as I was using the controller and the problems started i stop turning the wheel and the problems stop turn my wheel and problems start so I have no idea where to start to try and solve this.
It seams like it has something to do with my wheel but my wheel feels fine with nice ffb.


I can't try another game because I can't get a lot of internet data where I live so I have to take my pc to my brothers to use his internet so I'll have to wait for the weekend to do that.

No i have everything plugged into the USB ports that are on my pc

Are you using the pagnian rig now? Id try unplugging that if you are and see what happens.

Haiden
29-03-2017, 11:44
Well I have no idea what's going on. Tonight I went straight into free practice and everything was fine so I just keeped on driving then I started to hear a bit of crackling but no stuttering then the cracking started to get worse and then the stuttering started so I drove real slow on the longest straight and didn't turn my wheel and everything was fine then i turned the wheel and the problems started so I checked how long I'd been driving for and it was 26 minutes. I went back out and turned the controller on and went back into free practice and everything looked fine I did 3 laps and no problems. I still had my wheel plugged in so i turned the wheel as I was using the controller and the problems started i stop turning the wheel and the problems stop turn my wheel and problems start so I have no idea where to start to try and solve this.
It seams like it has something to do with my wheel but my wheel feels fine with nice ffb.


I can't try another game because I can't get a lot of internet data where I live so I have to take my pc to my brothers to use his internet so I'll have to wait for the weekend to do that.

No i have everything plugged into the USB ports that are on my pc

Have you tried reinstalling the drivers for your wheel?

Woffu
29-03-2017, 11:53
Are you using the pagnian rig now? Id try unplugging that if you are and see what happens.
No i don't have one of those it's just the seat and wheel stand. I have a usb keyboard, the usb transmitter for Xbox controller, my wheel with peddles still plugged into it, vr headset and sensor and that's all that's plugged in

Haiden
29-03-2017, 12:00
No i don't have one of those it's just the seat and wheel stand. I have a usb keyboard, the usb transmitter for Xbox controller, my wheel with peddles still plugged into it, vr headset and sensor and that's all that's plugged in

Question... does this only happen with VR, or do you get the problem in traditional screen play as well?

Woffu
29-03-2017, 12:05
Have you tried reinstalling the drivers for your wheel?
No i havnt since I started using vr. Worth a shot tho

Woffu
29-03-2017, 12:13
Question... does this only happen with VR, or do you get the problem in traditional screen play as well?
I think I did but I moved my wheel to the side of my tv so it was hard to drive and only did about 1 or 2 laps and I'm pretty sure it was fine but I'll have to try again and drive for about half hour and see what happens

morpwr
29-03-2017, 13:06
The thing that seems weird though is it doesn't start right away. You would think a driver or program issue would be there all the time. It almost seems heat related because it takes about 20 minutes before it causes an issue that's why I said to make sure everything is firmly seated in the pc.

Haiden
29-03-2017, 13:39
I think I did but I moved my wheel to the side of my tv so it was hard to drive and only did about 1 or 2 laps and I'm pretty sure it was fine but I'll have to try again and drive for about half hour and see what happens

I'd check that first. If it only occurs in VR then you can most likely rule out your wheel hardware and focus on your PC/drivers.

Also... You should run monitoring utility, like Afterburner, to see what your CPU and GPU are doing when your experiencing the problem. Stuttering can also be caused by CPU issues.

Haiden
29-03-2017, 13:44
The thing that seems weird though is it doesn't start right away. You would think a driver or program issue would be there all the time. It almost seems heat related because it takes about 20 minutes before it causes an issue that's why I said to make sure everything is firmly seated in the pc.

I don't think it is heat related. From his description, even when it's warmed up, it's​ fine. The problem seems to occur when he turns the wheel, which seems like a communication issue. Also, I don't see how heat issue in the wheel hardware would cause the sound crackling in game.

GrimeyDog
29-03-2017, 14:04
The thing that seems weird though is it doesn't start right away. You would think a driver or program issue would be there all the time. It almost seems heat related because it takes about 20 minutes before it causes an issue that's why I said to make sure everything is firmly seated in the pc.

I Agree with Mopwr... It Maybe a Heat Issue... How many Fans do you have??? Intake Fans ~VS~ Exhaust Fans??? VR is Demanding and makes the PC run Hotter... Down Load MSI AfterBurner so you can Monitor CPU & GPU temps...There are you tube Videos on How to set it up if your Not sure how to do it... This way you can rule temp issue out if PC & GPU temps are within Normal Specs...MSI AfterBurner is Free so it only cost you a tad bit of time... Also for the Quick fix you can turn up your Fan Speeds Espescially the Exhast fan to see if that makes it Go away.... I set My Exhaust fan to run @75% at all times from the Bios that way i dont have to keep readjusting them all the time.

Edit: How Big is your PSU/power supply???

GrimeyDog
29-03-2017, 14:13
I don't think it is heat related. From his description, even when it's warmed up, it's​ fine. The problem seems to occur when he turns the wheel, which seems like a communication issue. Also, I don't see how heat issue in the wheel hardware would cause the sound crackling in game.

Very Possible that it could be a Heat issue....Heat can cause distortion in eletric signals....it a Sizzling Sound... almost like frying Bacon.
The GPU gets Hotter because it has to Run the Monitor and the VR Head set at the same time.

Maybe it only comes out when wheel is in use because the wheel is putting a Extra Electric Load on His PC.... Hiw Big is his power Supply??? Thats a Factor also if the PSU/power supply can Handle it all. CPU, GPU,VR,Monitor, Wheel .

morpwr
29-03-2017, 14:23
I don't think it is heat related. From his description, even when it's warmed up, it's​ fine. The problem seems to occur when he turns the wheel, which seems like a communication issue. Also, I don't see how heat issue in the wheel hardware would cause the sound crackling in game.

He said it took about 26 minutes before it started.

Haiden
29-03-2017, 14:32
He said it took about 26 minutes before it started.

Yeah... but even then it works fine when he's on the straights, and only happens when he turns the wheel, not with the controller. The combination of it causing sound crackling, as well as image stuttering is why I don't think it's heat related. The fact that it occurs when he turns the wheel might have something to do with the rendering. When the car is turning the graphics demand is highest, as the card is rendering the both the forward movement, and the horizontal visual shift of the turn.

Honestly, it would be easier to narrow down/troubleshoot if he could try it in other games and on the TV. That would reveal a lot of useful info. If it doesn't happen when he's playing on a regular screen, then he could rule out anything that isn't VR related. Same for if it only occurs in PCars, then you could focus on that and rule out hardware and VR. But without any comparative data, you could spend a lot of time working the wrong end of the equation.

Edit: The fact that it only happens with the wheel and not the controller is why I don't think it's communication and not heat related. A heat issue would likely be present even with controller use. But it only happens when he's turning the wheel (i.e. a change in the signal being communicated by the wheel). It's not definitive, but he already said his GPU was only running at about 60 degrees. If the CPU usage and temps check out, then I'd move on.

morpwr
29-03-2017, 15:04
Yeah... but even then it works fine when he's on the straights, and only happens when he turns the wheel, not with the controller. The combination of it causing sound crackling, as well as image stuttering is why I don't think it's heat related. The fact that it occurs when he turns the wheel might have something to do with the rendering. When the car is turning the graphics demand is highest, as the card is rendering the both the forward movement, and the horizontal visual shift of the turn.

Honestly, it would be easier to narrow down/troubleshoot if he could try it in other games and on the TV. That would reveal a lot of useful info. If it doesn't happen when he's playing on a regular screen, then he could rule out anything that isn't VR related. Same for if it only occurs in PCars, then you could focus on that and rule out hardware and VR. But without any comparative data, you could spend a lot of time working the wrong end of the equation.

Edit: The fact that it only happens with the wheel and not the controller is why I don't think it's communication and not heat related. A heat issue would likely be present even with controller use. But it only happens when he's turning the wheel (i.e. a change in the signal being communicated by the wheel). It's not definitive, but he already said his GPU was only running at about 60 degrees. If the CPU usage and temps check out, then I'd move on.

I think I didn't explain myself well enough. I didnt mean like overheating pc but more of a heat issue with something not being plugged in properly. Poor contact will cause heat and create all sorts of weird shit when computers are involved. Easy enough to check and eliminate but I agree a different game to try would be a big help. If it was me id especially check and make sure the graphics cards is still in all the way. They are pretty heavy especially the one he has.

Haiden
29-03-2017, 15:14
I think I didn't explain myself well enough. I didnt mean like overheating pc but more of a heat issue with something not being plugged in properly. Poor contact will cause heat and create all sorts of weird shit when computers are involved. Easy enough to check and eliminate but I agree a different game to try would be a big help. If it was me id especially check and make sure the graphics cards is still in all the way. They are pretty heavy especially the one he has.

All true. Not sure it explains the controller vs. wheel issue, though. If something wasn't seated properly, wouldn't the issue be present during controller play, as well?

GrimeyDog
29-03-2017, 15:16
R.I.F = Reading is Fundamental.... I had Not Seen that he posted PC specs in His Signature....
How Many Fans Is He using??? Hardware Looks Good but Heat can still Build up in the Case if His Fans are Not right.

Now that i saw his PC Specs its a even.more Weird issue he is having:confused:

GrimeyDog
29-03-2017, 15:37
Yeah... but even then it works fine when he's on the straights, and only happens when he turns the wheel, not with the controller. The combination of it causing sound crackling, as well as image stuttering is why I don't think it's heat related. The fact that it occurs when he turns the wheel might have something to do with the rendering. When the car is turning the graphics demand is highest, as the card is rendering the both the forward movement, and the horizontal visual shift of the turn.

Honestly, it would be easier to narrow down/troubleshoot if he could try it in other games and on the TV. That would reveal a lot of useful info. If it doesn't happen when he's playing on a regular screen, then he could rule out anything that isn't VR related. Same for if it only occurs in PCars, then you could focus on that and rule out hardware and VR. But without any comparative data, you could spend a lot of time working the wrong end of the equation.

Edit: The fact that it only happens with the wheel and not the controller is why I don't think it's communication and not heat related. A heat issue would likely be present even with controller use. But it only happens when he's turning the wheel (i.e. a change in the signal being communicated by the wheel). It's not definitive, but he already said his GPU was only running at about 60 degrees. If the CPU usage and temps check out, then I'd move on.

Im Not seeing/Understandin How Digital Data is Causing Noise/Static??? Digital Data Either the Data works or it Dont....But Im No Computer Tec so Dont Quote Me:confused:

A controller will Not Draw as Much power from the USB port as a wheel.
If it only happens when he Turns the Wheel... There has to be something Physical... Something is Not Grounded or Not properly Plugged in and seated.... No Matter the Game when he turns the wheel....Remember thats when the wheel is Pulling Extra Current to Create Resistance to turn/Weight Transfer, Rumble Strips FFB Etc... He should Check to make Sure all His USB lines are Firmly Plugged into the Mother Board... Maybe even unplug them and Blow them out to make sure No Dust is in there causing a Bad Connection.

AC would be a Good Game to Test on because it has alot of Progerssive wheel weight when turning at speed... The Progressive wheel weight will Draw alot of Current... maybe the Flaw can be seen in AC Clipping Meter???

morpwr
29-03-2017, 15:53
All true. Not sure it explains the controller vs. wheel issue, though. If something wasn't seated properly, wouldn't the issue be present during controller play, as well?

Honestly no idea but I only know from testing electronics in cars that poor connections will cause all sorts of strange issues that would seem totally unrelated. Plus he had it shipped that was one of the reasons I mentioned making sure everything is still firmly seated. Some stuff can back out. Just trying to eliminate as many easy possibilities as possible. Probably my years of trouble shooting has taught me to not overlook the obvious easy stuff.lol

GrimeyDog
29-03-2017, 16:24
109% Agree ^^^

Haiden
29-03-2017, 16:27
Im Not seeing/Understandin How Digital Data is Causing Noise/Static??? Digital Data Either the Data works or it Dont....But Im No Computer Tec so Dont Quote Me:confused:

Conflicts can cause crackling in the sound card. The digital data at some point is converted to something usable--sound, visual, etc. If the data is corrupted, it can produce static or visual problems, due to lost data packets or latency. It's actually pretty common. Google Chrome has a conflict with some HP Spectre laptops. People get sound crackling after using Chrome for extended periods of time. Use task manager to kill all Chrome processes, and the crackling goes away. Data is just the PC's communication medium. It has to be reconstructed and converted into a human readable format, like sound or visual. Corrupt the data, you damage the output, whether it be audio or visual.

Haiden
29-03-2017, 16:31
Honestly no idea but I only know from testing electronics in cars that poor connections will cause all sorts of strange issues that would seem totally unrelated. Plus he had it shipped that was one of the reasons I mentioned making sure everything is still firmly seated. Some stuff can back out. Just trying to eliminate as many easy possibilities as possible. Probably my years of trouble shooting has taught me to not overlook the obvious easy stuff.lol

I totally agree with you on that. In this case, the fact that it doesn't happen with the controller, and only with the wheel that makes me think it's something else. The connections are definitely worth a quick check, and I wasn't suggesting he not do that. I was just moving ahead, because it didn't sound like a heat issue to me, because it only happens with one device type.

morpwr
29-03-2017, 16:45
I totally agree with you on that. In this case, the fact that it doesn't happen with the controller, and only with the wheel that makes me think it's something else. The connections are definitely worth a quick check, and I wasn't suggesting he not do that. I was just moving ahead, because it didn't sound like a heat issue to me, because it only happens with one device type.

I wonder what the power setting is set to in windows? Not sure what that would do if it wasn't set to performance and was instead set to energy conserving.

morpwr
29-03-2017, 17:02
Anyways back to the fun stuff. Played pcars last night and I have to say there is nothing like getting passed by the crazy ai jumping the curb and getting air(a lot of it) in vr.

Haiden
29-03-2017, 17:34
Anyways back to the fun stuff. Played pcars last night and I have to say there is nothing like getting passed by the crazy ai jumping the curb and getting air(a lot of it) in vr.

PCars' AI is just strange. I can't say I like it. The sim is great in VR, and I'm actually enjoying the career mode in VR, but the AI is just too insane. I say insane, because if they were just aggressive that would be fine. But they drive off track and just do ridiculous things that break the immersion. AC's AI is too timid, which basically regulates single player to an overtake simulator, skipping quali and starting every race from the back of the grid. That can be fun, but after a while, I miss getting pressured from behind and being forced to defend. IMO online is where AC is best. It's not as chaotic as PCars MP sessions, more servers running, and a better crop of drivers to race against. But R3E has the best single player AI, IMO. Very realistic behavior, including mistakes. You can even pressure them into making errors. If R3E had PCars' graphics and transitions and AC's FFB, it'd be my single player king. :)

morpwr
29-03-2017, 17:44
Spa at 10pm in thunderstorm with gt3 cars was fun. But yeah the ai is insane. I forget which short track I ran last night with the ford 1600 but I got passed by the ai in the dirt and grass more often then not.R3e definitely is my favorite for sp. Really good battles and the ai will pass you back. Good news is supposedly weather is coming to r3e soon.:D New track today too if you missed that.

Haiden
29-03-2017, 17:50
Spa at 10pm in thunderstorm with gt3 cars was fun. But yeah the ai is insane. I forget which short track I ran last night with the ford 1600 but I got passed by the ai in the dirt and grass more often then not.R3e definitely is my favorite for sp. Really good battles and the ai will pass you back. Good news is supposedly weather is coming to r3e soon.:D New track today too if you missed that.

I can't tell you how many times I've passed the AI, only to have it take it back at the next corner, or find a way to slip back in through the inside on corner exit. I also love seeing them go wide, or catch a bit of wheel spin ahead me. Makes for some really good races. Which track did they add?

Weather would be a welcome addition.

morpwr
29-03-2017, 21:53
I can't tell you how many times I've passed the AI, only to have it take it back at the next corner, or find a way to slip back in through the inside on corner exit. I also love seeing them go wide, or catch a bit of wheel spin ahead me. Makes for some really good races. Which track did they add?

Weather would be a welcome addition.

Yeah I love the fact the ai will pull off the crossover move AND do it without wrecking you. The new one they have been talking about I cant remember the name. Seems flags are coming in the next update (next week) and tires next. I'm really surprised they are still adding stuff knowing they will be going to ue4 sometime soon. Maybe it can be used in that easily?

Haiden
29-03-2017, 22:20
Yeah I love the fact the ai will pull off the crossover move AND do it without wrecking you. The new one they have been talking about I cant remember the name. Seems flags are coming in the next update (next week) and tires next. I'm really surprised they are still adding stuff knowing they will be going to ue4 sometime soon. Maybe it can be used in that easily?

Yes! I love that, too. You think you have it then, just as you're about to get back on the throttle, you see that f'cker take it back...LOL.

My guess is most of the new stuff was actually developed for the new version, but they're dropping whatever is compatible with the current version to build momentum and draw people back to the title before the next edition drops. Not a bad strategy, consider how long the current version has been out.

Also...It's probably a good way to beta test some of the new things. Then they can use the feedback to refine them for the new version. :)

Woffu
29-03-2017, 23:46
Thanks for all the information guys I'll be trying everything yous have suggested.
I have a corsair link I can check temps and load but not in game like msi afterburner I'll do that tonight. What woulb be to much load on the CPU? I have no idea
I did unplug my wheel and tryed other USB ports I tryed the mother board and the ones on top near the power button but still the same.
Also in the corsair like there is a performance page with 3 options power saving, balanced and performance mine is set on balanced. I haven't changed and settings since Iv got it.
I got a mate to build it for me he live in the town next to me so one the weekend I'll see if he can check everything out to make sure nothing's wrong inside or broken. And I'll also get ac to to see if it happens with that game
I have a mates t300 sitting at home to so I'll hook that one up and see if it does it with that wheel as well
I also felt the display cords coming out of the graphics card and they were warm but no hot as i could hold my fingers on the back of the card where the cords plug in and it didn't burn my fingers or anything I could hold them there as long as I wonted

I set the corsair link up so I could take the head set off and look over at my tv and see temps but i didn't look at loads. That's how I know the hottest thing was at 61 degrees the graphics card.
I have 1 fan at the back, 2 at the front and the water cooler on top with 2 fans

gotdirt410sprintcar
30-03-2017, 00:03
Do you guys use your pc too surf the web etc. Movies ect , just wondering 700 WHAT

Still 699 lmao updated 700 what Where is the book at grimey.Lol

morpwr
30-03-2017, 02:32
Thanks for all the information guys I'll be trying everything yous have suggested.
I have a corsair link I can check temps and load but not in game like msi afterburner I'll do that tonight. What woulb be to much load on the CPU? I have no idea
I did unplug my wheel and tryed other USB ports I tryed the mother board and the ones on top near the power button but still the same.
Also in the corsair like there is a performance page with 3 options power saving, balanced and performance mine is set on balanced. I haven't changed and settings since Iv got it.
I got a mate to build it for me he live in the town next to me so one the weekend I'll see if he can check everything out to make sure nothing's wrong inside or broken. And I'll also get ac to to see if it happens with that game
I have a mates t300 sitting at home to so I'll hook that one up and see if it does it with that wheel as well
I also felt the display cords coming out of the graphics card and they were warm but no hot as i could hold my fingers on the back of the card where the cords plug in and it didn't burn my fingers or anything I could hold them there as long as I wonted

I set the corsair link up so I could take the head set off and look over at my tv and see temps but i didn't look at loads. That's how I know the hottest thing was at 61 degrees the graphics card.
I have 1 fan at the back, 2 at the front and the water cooler on top with 2 fans

You definitely want performance. You aren't trying to conserve anything.lol I'm assuming its not overclocked seeing you pretty much have all the best stuff.Make absolutely sure you have the latest updates for everything. Even the keyboard and mouse. That's one downside to gaming pcs they are constantly updating things. But that's the price we pay for all the toys we get. Check the drivers too and make sure you don't have windows universal ones installed instead of the ones who made the pieces. Unfortunately you don't have internet because a lot of updates are automatically downloaded. That's something you may want to figure out. It would make things a lot easier on you. If you go to the page with the drivers there will be a yellow triangle if the driver is missing. Click on device manager to check it. If I'm not mistaken you need to change the power setting in windows too. I don't have corsair link so I'm not sure if that over rides the windows settings.

morpwr
30-03-2017, 02:35
Do you guys use your pc too surf the web etc. Movies ect , just wondering 700 WHAT

Still 699 lmao updated 700 what Where is the book at grimey.Lol

I don't. If it isn't sim related or related to the pc I'm not doing it. I spent too much building this for racing to download some bs virus.lol

Woffu
30-03-2017, 03:39
You definitely want performance. You aren't trying to conserve anything.lol I'm assuming its not overclocked seeing you pretty much have all the best stuff.Make absolutely sure you have the latest updates for everything. Even the keyboard and mouse. That's one downside to gaming pcs they are constantly updating things. But that's the price we pay for all the toys we get. Check the drivers too and make sure you don't have windows universal ones installed instead of the ones who made the pieces. Unfortunately you don't have internet because a lot of updates are automatically downloaded. That's something you may want to figure out. It would make things a lot easier on you. If you go to the page with the drivers there will be a yellow triangle if the driver is missing. Click on device manager to check it. If I'm not mistaken you need to change the power setting in windows too. I don't have corsair link so I'm not sure if that over rides the windows settings.
Ok I'll try performance mode tonight as well. No it's not overclocked well I don't think it is I didn't ask him to overclock it and he didn't say it was.
I just plugged the USB stick for the mouse and keyboard in and it worked so I didn't do anything with drivers or anything. Not sure if there is already one on there or not because the mouse and keyboard worked when plugged in.
I have internet just not a lot of data on my plan I know I'll get caught out when an auto update happens and prob got over my data limit.

Haiden
30-03-2017, 03:58
Do you guys use your pc too surf the web etc. Movies ect , just wondering 700 WHAT

Still 699 lmao updated 700 what Where is the book at grimey.Lol

Gaming only. The only time I surf the web is for sim info that I need while I'm in the rig. :)

morpwr
30-03-2017, 10:52
Ok I'll try performance mode tonight as well. No it's not overclocked well I don't think it is I didn't ask him to overclock it and he didn't say it was.
I just plugged the USB stick for the mouse and keyboard in and it worked so I didn't do anything with drivers or anything. Not sure if there is already one on there or not because the mouse and keyboard worked when plugged in.
I have internet just not a lot of data on my plan I know I'll get caught out when an auto update happens and prob got over my data limit.

Did the guy that built the pc have the driver and mouse youre using now? If he didn't the drivers for them are probably missing and you will have to download them. They will work with the windows universal drivers just not fully functional or maybe not correctly. That could be your issue especially if its a gaming mouse and keyboard.

Woffu
30-03-2017, 12:16
Did the guy that built the pc have the driver and mouse youre using now? If he didn't the drivers for them are probably missing and you will have to download them. They will work with the windows universal drivers just not fully functional or maybe not correctly. That could be your issue especially if its a gaming mouse and keyboard.
No the guy didn't have the mouse or anything. I bought it when pcars came out on console so i could use all the buttons it's nothing flash no gaming mouse.
I didn't have time to test anything tonight but I did have a quick look in some settings and in the gigabyte launch app center there's an auto tune option and it brings up a page with 4 options ECO, default, OC, auto tune and the OC option it highlighted so I guess that would mean it is overclocked would it?

morpwr
30-03-2017, 12:32
No the guy didn't have the mouse or anything. I bought it when pcars came out on console so i could use all the buttons it's nothing flash no gaming mouse.
I didn't have time to test anything tonight but I did have a quick look in some settings and in the gigabyte launch app center there's an auto tune option and it brings up a page with 4 options ECO, default, OC, auto tune and the OC option it highlighted so I guess that would mean it is overclocked would it?

If oc is highlighted it sounds like it is. Does it tell you what its overclocked to? It might not be stable and that's causing the issue. Id set it back to default and see how it works.

Woffu
30-03-2017, 12:47
If oc is highlighted it sounds like it is. Does it tell you what its overclocked to? It might not be stable and that's causing the issue. Id set it back to default and see how it works.
I think it was 4.7 and default was 4.2 it says it underneath. I do most of this off my phone.
i guess i would need the book for the mouse and keyboard to know what driver to download? Because i don't think i would have it anymore

morpwr
30-03-2017, 13:50
I think it was 4.7 and default was 4.2 it says it underneath. I do most of this off my phone.
i guess i would need the book for the mouse and keyboard to know what driver to download? Because i don't think i would have it anymore

You should just be able to go on whoever made the keyboard and mouse website and get them. Its usually pretty easy. I would set it back to default with no oc until you get this straightened out. Sometimes the mobo oc doesn't work right and will set it higher then it should. Mine would try to set it as high as 4.8 which would be crazy. You might want to go on the mobos forum and see if guys are having issues with overclocking especially with 7700. One other thing you might want to check too is find out if the mobo has the latest bios. I know the asus boards have new bios specifically for compatibility with those 7700s and they were just recently released. Id imagine other manufacturers are the same.

Haiden
30-03-2017, 14:06
If oc is highlighted it sounds like it is. Does it tell you what its overclocked to? It might not be stable and that's causing the issue. Id set it back to default and see how it works.

Agreed. If the OC wasn't thoroughly tested, it might not be stable and could be the source of the problem. In fact, IIRC, the issues he described are consistent with OC related issues.

morpwr
30-03-2017, 14:09
Agreed. If the OC wasn't thoroughly tested, it might not be stable and could be the source of the problem. In fact, IIRC, the issues he described are consistent with OC related issues.

Yeah mine tried the 4.8 and crashed pretty much immediately. Its not uncommon for the mobo oc to try to hard and not get things right. Plus you throw in the silicone lottery and you might not get as high as some do. If I had to make a slightly educated guess the voltage is too high.