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foxy2020
16-09-2015, 15:46
So i'll update firmware if needed and then so far as Project Cars do you recommend i try it on default straight out of the box settings before i mess about with it? I've heard of the Jack Spade stuff. Any tips basically is what i'm after. I'm very nervous as i have read the reviews on amazon.. excited but nervous..:p

Schnizz58
16-09-2015, 15:53
I'd probably start with less overall force and then increase it if necessary. So tire force around 50-60, FFB 100 and steering gain 1.0. See how that feels and then start tweaking. I'd get the overall FFB in pretty good shape and then apply Jack's settings. I'd also change the default scoop reduction to knee ~ 0.50-ish, reduction around 0.15. Add in some deadzone removal - I use 0.12 for a range and I don't recall my falloff setting but I use a pretty gradual falloff (larger value == more gradual). Don't add any soft clipping but relative torque adjust is useful. I have the gain set to a little over 1.0, the clamp a little below 1.0 and the bleed somewhere in the 0.30 range, iirc.

odemode
16-09-2015, 15:54
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/

foxy2020
16-09-2015, 15:57
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/

wowzers! cool cheers!

Schnizz58
16-09-2015, 15:59
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/
I'd recommend getting the overall FFB dialed in before fooling with any of the car settings.

odemode
16-09-2015, 16:04
Yes, first set your global setting then tweak each car individually. I use the classic settings on each car. Make sure you do it in the garage or else it will not save.

Johngrim
16-09-2015, 17:03
My advise. Don't get bogged down with setting .Iv set Tire force at 50 and Force feedback at 50 .Just enjoy and get used to driving the more you drive the more your brain gets into feeling the car .Iv jus got a top 4 time at Nordschleife with them setting in the Ruf yellowbird and beleve me you need to feel that car lol .

Strydervip
16-09-2015, 19:56
Glad I bought my Tx on Walmart.Com cause 2 months it was dead! Tried contacting thrustmaster for 3 days. Finally just took it back to Walmart and got a replacement with no questions asked and got a 4 year warranty for 34 more dollars! Love the wheel! But failure rates are astronomically high!

Johngrim
16-09-2015, 21:11
The failure rate is another reason I run low ffb setting in the hope it keeps it alive .The wheel motor is ridiculously strong and it feels to me full force is enough to damage it over time.

Schnizz58
16-09-2015, 21:22
The failure rate is another reason I run low ffb setting in the hope it keeps it alive .The wheel motor is ridiculously strong and it feels to me full force is enough to damage it over time.
If not damage it, then for sure cause it to wear faster.

foxy2020
17-09-2015, 07:14
Glad I bought my Tx on Walmart.Com cause 2 months it was dead! Tried contacting thrustmaster for 3 days. Finally just took it back to Walmart and got a replacement with no questions asked and got a 4 year warranty for 34 more dollars! Love the wheel! But failure rates are astronomically high!

Mines from amazon, its sold direct through them so any issues i send it back to amazon and not have to deal with thrustmaster. After reading the reviews its the only way i'd ever do it. Early christmas present from folks so i'm hoping it at least lasts till then!:p

Strydervip
17-09-2015, 22:09
Mines from amazon, its sold direct through them so any issues i send it back to amazon and not have to deal with thrustmaster. After reading the reviews its the only way i'd ever do it. Early christmas present from folks so i'm hoping it at least lasts till then!:p

Yeah I read the reviews myself and watched every youtube video about wheels for xb1. Thurstmaster was the way to go but the failure rates were bad so I made sure I got it from a company that has no issues when returning. When they offered the 4 year warranty I jumped on it!

Dynomight Motorsports
17-09-2015, 23:13
So yeah.. I've been through 3 TX's. Thrustmaster is going to be sending me my 4th, then I'm just going to call Walmart for replacement. As soon as I get one that works for longer than 3 hours, I'm probably going to sell it and get a Logitech G920.
If you start with low FFB you're wheel might last though.

yusupov
18-09-2015, 00:18
what is "low ffb" to you? afaik on xbox you guys have the wheel set to 100% strength then its at 200 gain ingame by default...thats gonna be massive clipping and will cook the wheel. PC has 75% strength default & i use 1.00 gain (and this should be default). ffb is fine, & i am not saying thrustmaster wheels dont seem to be more of a reliability risk than other brands, they do, but i think the console+pCARS default settings are overheating a lot of wheels. for PC guys who are used to sims & monitoring & cutting out clipping, the failures seem to be much more sporadic and random.

not saying its anyones fault since it SHOULD be plug & play, but going thru 3 wheels, thats probably not just bad luck.

nissan4ever
18-09-2015, 01:03
For my Thrustmaster TX
FFB 100
Tire Force 50
Jack Spade's Spreadsheet - 66% Chart

My wheels operating temp is great. Even with long racing sessions. My fan operation in the unit is fine. Doesn't excessively run after a race (usually off with in 1 - 3 mins). I do have my ceiling fan on high while racing with my wheel.

About 600 hrs on my wheel now.

Dynomight Motorsports
18-09-2015, 02:28
My first one went out after 4 months, Just stopped working. My second one burnt up after 3 hours of use. I pulled it apart and found the transformer had a molex connector that just melted. The third wheel I turned the FFB down and it felt like I didn't have any after intial use. I used it for about 2 hours. Then came back next day and it wouldn't recogize the HALL Effect sensor. It just spins back and forth from lock to lock as the diagnostic on the computer shows no movement. Basically its position sensor is bad. So yeah you can say what you want, but I just think TM is crap. I'm using a spider right now and it actually has more resistance than my last wheel base. I shouldn't have to set my wheel to "pussy" to play it. Considering that is the big sale point of the TM is its FFB strength. But even at Nissan's settings the wheel didn't last.. So any other advice..??? I'm listening, Yususpov!

yusupov
18-09-2015, 04:03
nissans setting with gain at 1.00 (or a little higher), TF at 100 or even higher should be perfectly fine.

the wheel shouldnt feel heavy unless SAT is kicking in (essentially if youre in a slide/crash, is when the full force of the wheel will come into play). if you set FFB too high youre deadening the signal & losing any nuance. unfortunately afaik project cars defaults to 2x what is ideal & bc the wheel on console is pumping at maximum strength (instead of 75%), ffb should probably be changed to 75 (or so, there are no really hard rules, & overheating isnt something you SHOULD have to worry about. some units are going to go defective, im just saying, it is true that the trustmaster wheels can overheat if theyre overstressed, but normal ffb settings SHOULD not cause any problems. naturally some units are going to be defective or shoddily made & i agree it does seem TM has a higher % of these than other manufacturers. itd just be a shame to fork out $400 for a downgraded wheel if its something that can be 99% taken care of on your end, is all im saying.

tbh ive not been remotely worried about the wheel since i bought it (other than keeping my fingers crossed as i have heard of them randomly failing but then, thats true of any wheel -- after i got my g27 the first things i heard were horror stories similar to yours, but its probably as solid a wheel as there is).

foxy2020
18-09-2015, 08:43
Cool, ok so its here and it's great, although i'm a little nervous of it i'm treating it like a little puppy. So i just plug in and played, no update of firmware and to me it feels wonderful, had a tweek with the jack spade global settings but i'm running it at 40 FFB 80 tyre force, i cant imagine going to 100 ffb! i can't turn the wheel when i'm at the starting lights which i'd imagine is normal? I wanted to go check my Dads car to see if i could turn wheels at stand still and will try later.

So far having only the official xbox 360 MS wheel to compare it to, i'm pleased as punch, weirdly i must be so focused that i'm not seeing the same level of screen tear as before! odd...

I noticed the best car so far with out fiddling with settings is the RUF GT3 race car, its unreal feedback!

Strydervip
18-09-2015, 12:19
Cool, ok so its here and it's great, although i'm a little nervous of it i'm treating it like a little puppy. So i just plug in and played, no update of firmware and to me it feels wonderful, had a tweek with the jack spade global settings but i'm running it at 40 FFB 80 tyre force, i cant imagine going to 100 ffb! i can't turn the wheel when i'm at the starting lights which i'd imagine is normal? I wanted to go check my Dads car to see if i could turn wheels at stand still and will try later.

So far having only the official xbox 360 MS wheel to compare it to, i'm pleased as punch, weirdly i must be so focused that i'm not seeing the same level of screen tear as before! odd...

I noticed the best car so far with out fiddling with settings is the RUF GT3 race car, its unreal feedback!

The Ford Zac speed Capri is a blast to drive with wheel! But I love a car that feels wild! Plus the Mercedes Sauber is a beast with ffb

AFM
18-09-2015, 12:43
Just couple questions, I am new to this forum and new to sim racing, and my Thrustmaster Tx steering wheel is nothing like a normal steering wheel in a real car, don`t racing cars have power steering.
I followed Nissan4ever instructions to upgraded my wheel but the force on the wheel is ridicules, its like driving a truck without power steering, and it would be nice if you the more experienced would spell out the meaning of your abbreviations (FFB,Tyre Force, SAT,TM etc) for the novices.

Tony

foxy2020
18-09-2015, 13:36
Just couple questions, I am new to this forum and new to sim racing, and my Thrustmaster Tx steering wheel is nothing like a normal steering wheel in a real car, don`t racing cars have power steering.
I followed Nissan4ever instructions to upgraded my wheel but the force on the wheel is ridicules, its like driving a truck without power steering, and it would be nice if you the more experienced would spell out the meaning of your abbreviations (FFB,Tyre Force, SAT,TM etc) for the novices.

Tony

Agree with this, i'm going nowhere near 100 FFB! lol.

Schnizz58
18-09-2015, 14:42
Agree with this, i'm going nowhere near 100 FFB! lol.
Not the best approach, imo. You should run 100 FFB and then use either tire force or steering gain (or both) to scale back the force.

OverHaased
18-09-2015, 15:03
If you run the FFB at any number below 100 you will not get full tire feedback. (Rumble strips and tire shudder from lock up)

Set ffb to 100 then dial back the tire force to what you feel is acceptable. I run anywhere from 26 to 50 depending on the car.

foxy2020
18-09-2015, 16:08
If you run the FFB at any number below 100 you will not get full tire feedback. (Rumble strips and tire shudder from lock up)

Set ffb to 100 then dial back the tire force to what you feel is acceptable. I run anywhere from 26 to 50 depending on the car.

Oh, cool ok i'll try that later then. It must be the tire force that's creating this crazy weight to the wheel then.

Exup
18-09-2015, 16:22
Want a simple setup that will work in all cars?

Steering Gain=0.40, Tyre force=100 e o FFB=100

the steering gain is the trick to keep the lightness or not...

Please just try it and forget all the other settings (then you can play with the master scale on each car if needed).

Regards.

foxy2020
18-09-2015, 16:31
Want a simple setup that will work in all cars?

Steering Gain=0.40, Tyre force=100 e o FFB=100

the steering gain is the trick to keep the lightness or not...

Please just try it and forget all the other settings (then you can play with the master scale on each car if needed).

Regards.

I'll give it a go.

Sorry for another noob question, but do i leave wheel plugged in all the time or do i unplug when not in use? I ask because i unplugged today to sort out the wires and it went scatty once i re plugged it in, so is it 'live' at all times its plugged in even if xbox is off?

Schnizz58
18-09-2015, 16:32
I'll give it a go.

Sorry for another noob question, but do i leave wheel plugged in all the time or do i unplug when not in use? I ask because i unplugged today to sort out the wires and it went scatty once i re plugged it in, so is it 'live' at all times its plugged in even if xbox is off?
I'd recommend unplugging it to be on the safe side.

Benja190782
18-09-2015, 16:50
Here's what I've done:

First do the calibration of the TX wheel - push the wheel to the left until it reach 100 and not 95 as you should think - because that is where the wheel stops (at 95 degrees, so push it further - it should say 100)
Now press NEXT and turn right until it say 900 degrees.

Then the FFB settings:
FFB at 100!
Tyre Force at 100!
Steering Deadzone at 0!
And everything else is default!

Then change the "Car FFB setting to Jack Spade 66%" but change the Master Scale to about the half (the RUF RGT-8 GT3 is 32 at Master Scale - change it to 16 + the SoP at 16)

Done!

I instantly did my new PB on Catalunya GP in my RUF RGT-8 GT3! 01:44:034

2pfspiff
19-09-2015, 07:59
Here's what I've done:

First do the calibration of the TX wheel - push the wheel to the left until it reach 100 and not 95 as you should think - because that is where the wheel stops (at 95 degrees, so push it further - it should say 100)
Now press NEXT and turn right until it say 900 degrees.

Then the FFB settings:
FFB at 100!
Tyre Force at 100!
Steering Deadzone at 0!
And everything else is default!

Then change the "Car FFB setting to Jack Spade 66%" but change the Master Scale to about the half (the RUF RGT-8 GT3 is 32 at Master Scale - change it to 16 + the SoP at 16)

Done!

I instantly did my new PB on Catalunya GP in my RUF RGT-8 GT3! 01:44:034

Agreed. I only change the car FFB settings (Jack Spades 66% SOP settings). My wheel runs slightly warm to the touch even after several hrs of racing. I also leave the wheel plugged in until the fan turns off then I shut everything down and unplug the wheel.

RoccoTTS
19-09-2015, 12:32
Here's what I've done:

First do the calibration of the TX wheel - push the wheel to the left until it reach 100 and not 95 as you should think - because that is where the wheel stops (at 95 degrees, so push it further - it should say 100)
Now press NEXT and turn right until it say 900 degrees.

Then the FFB settings:
FFB at 100!
Tyre Force at 100!
Steering Deadzone at 0!
And everything else is default!

Then change the "Car FFB setting to Jack Spade 66%" but change the Master Scale to about the half (the RUF RGT-8 GT3 is 32 at Master Scale - change it to 16 + the SoP at 16)

Done!

I instantly did my new PB on Catalunya GP in my RUF RGT-8 GT3! 01:44:034

What you are doing is just the same as TF at 50, just a lot more work.
TF 100, Master scale and Sop at 16 = TF 50, Master scale and Sop at 32.

lifeofbrian
19-09-2015, 13:45
Try my settings here (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?32481-My-Thrustmaster-TX-settings-for-maximum-road-feel&p=1007879&viewfull=1#post1007879), adjust the steering gain if the wheel is too heavy.


So i'll update firmware if needed and then so far as Project Cars do you recommend i try it on default straight out of the box settings before i mess about with it? I've heard of the Jack Spade stuff. Any tips basically is what i'm after. I'm very nervous as i have read the reviews on amazon.. excited but nervous..:p

foxy2020
20-09-2015, 07:34
Can anyone tell me where i find the SOP setting (in game)? can't find them anywhere, what am i doing wrong?

Benja190782
20-09-2015, 08:20
Can anyone tell me where i find the SOP setting (in game)? can't find them anywhere, what am i doing wrong?

Go to car setups - FFB settings - press RT when in FFB settings where you see Master Scale at the top, and then SoP shows up at the buttom after pressing RT.

foxy2020
20-09-2015, 09:37
Go to car setups - FFB settings - press RT when in FFB settings where you see Master Scale at the top, and then SoP shows up at the buttom after pressing RT.

Cool, I'm sure this has all been said before, but they really didn't make it easy to navigate by not putting simple instructions on screen.