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Krus Control
02-10-2015, 15:15
UPDATE: I now use a Fanatec CSL Elite wheel and I'm posting the settings I use to get perfect FFB on it. The first 7 images show the settings for my Fanatec CSL Elite. The next 8 images show a set of universal settings that are a good starting point for any wheel. Then at the bottom there are changes from those universal settings to be made if you use a Thrustmaster TX, T300, or T150.

These settings produce an excellent feel in every car with the default setup on my Thrustmaster TX. Though I recommend that you change Body Longitudinal Scale to 2.00, Body Stiffness to 100-200.00 depending on what works best for your wheel, and Body Damping to 0.01 as pictured below for every car. Also it's important to have the correct arm angle for each car and to turn all Fxyz/Mz smoothing to 0.

This produces a better feel and better overall levels for me. But I think these settings that I have pictured below are better as a default.

Here is a list of different arm angles. These might be different from what works on your wheel. These are what works for me on the TX. Arm angle is the only thing I change from car to car. It seems to be related to tire compound and peak grip.

Aston Martin DBR1/300 900
Ariel Atom 300 Supercharged 1300
Ariel Atom 500 V8 1300
Ariel Atom Mugen 1300
BAC Mono 1700
BMW 1M 1500
BMW 1M Stanceworks 200
BMW 2002 Stanceworks 100
BMW 2002 Turbo 300
BMW 320 TC 1600
BMW Group A 2100
BMW M1 2300
BMW M3 GT4 2900
BMW Group 5 1100
Caterham R500 Superlight 1300
Caterham Seven Classic 1300
Ford 2+2 Mustang 100
Ford GT40 1300
Ford Escort 300
Ford Focus RS 1300
Ford Mustang 302 GT4 2400
Ford Mustang GT 1500
Ford Sierra RS500 2100
Ford Zakspeed Capri Group 5 1100
Formula A 3800
Formula B 3400
Formula C 3400
Formula Gulf 3300
Formula Rookie 1600
Ginetta GT4 2800
Lotus 25 700 (Mz 50)
Lotus 38 600
Lotus 40 1200 (Mz 30)
Lotus 49 900 (Mz 30)
Lotus49C 900 (Mz 50)
Lotus 72D 3000
Lotus 78 1000
Lotus 98T 3000
Mazda MX5 Radbul 200
Mercedes 190E Group A 2100
Mercedes 300SEL 400
Mercedes 300sl 1200
Mercedes A45 1500
McLaren 12C 1500
McLaren F1 1500
McLaren P1 1500
Pagoni Zonda Cinque 1500
Pagani Zonda R 1500
Radical RXC 1700
Radical SR3 1800
Radical SR8 1800
RUF Yelloybird 1300
RUF RGT8 1400
FRs/GT86 400
FRS Rocket Bunny 400
GT86 Rocket Bunny 2900
W Motors Lykan Hypersport 1500

This is all I've done so far but will post more when I use that car.

These first 7 images are of my current settings for my Fanatec CSL Elite.

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These Next images show settings that should be a good starting point for any wheel.





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And for TX users here are these:
222347

These are the changes I made to use with my old TX wheel:

Mz (in every car): 18
Tire Force: 171
Steering Gain: 128
Thrustmaster Control Panel Gain: 98%

Keep in mind that this configuration will clip if you don't turn Mz down.

ex_
02-10-2015, 15:21
Nice work! I will try this and compare what I am currently using, to see if I like it better.

I went through the same exercise, and tried to be scientific and figure everything out. It got too frustrating... I found someone's universal settings and have mostly been using a slightly tweaked version for a while. Hoping this will be even better.

Note, I am an amateur recording engineer, a GIS analyst, and game modder... and it was still really hard to figure out, so if you have, kudos to you, sir!

AMarchesini92
02-10-2015, 18:00
Thanks Krus! Do u thinks these settings work great also with XB1 and Thrustmaster TX?

Krus Control
02-10-2015, 18:32
Thanks Krus! Do u thinks these settings work great also with XB1 and Thrustmaster TX?

I only play on PC and cannot vouch for XB1 performance. It should work exactly the same. I use a Thrustmaster TX so it should work great for you. Really these settings should work great with everything. Sort of a grand unified theory of FFB.

Nekrobob
02-10-2015, 22:55
I hope for 55 more FFB Options in PCars 2!

konnos
02-10-2015, 22:56
Ι will try these tomorrow, too late now although I m tempted!

konnos
03-10-2015, 09:35
I don't know what you think you have accomplished here, but here it goes. The feel around the centre of the wheel is not bad, but everything else is bad. With these settings the wheel weight is the most prevalent force and can't feel much of anything else. Some deceleration yes, there's no info when taking a turn, it's all very flat.

Overall, compared to settings proposed (per wheel of course) by other people, this is going no where for my wheel and needs major readjusting. Why so high linkage stiffness? I think that's what's giving the wheel the heavy feel in your setup, because I see your low DRR and I think you re trying to compensate for lack of small forces in the centre with linkage stiffness.

Krus Control
03-10-2015, 13:52
I don't know what you think you have accomplished here, but here it goes. The feel around the centre of the wheel is not bad, but everything else is bad. With these settings the wheel weight is the most prevalent force and can't feel much of anything else. Some deceleration yes, there's no info when taking a turn, it's all very flat.

Overall, compared to settings proposed (per wheel of course) by other people, this is going no where for my wheel and needs major readjusting. Why so high linkage stiffness? I think that's what's giving the wheel the heavy feel in your setup, because I see your low DRR and I think you re trying to compensate for lack of small forces in the centre with linkage stiffness.

The linkage being any less than full stiffness is unrealistic. Having it at full stiffness makes the forces more direct with less processing. I don't know what your reference is, but just because it's not like what you're used to doesn't mean anything. You generally don't feel deceleration too heavily IRL. Maybe in downforce cars. You're just giving blind criticism for apparently no reason. The goal of FFB is not to make it feel less flat, but for me is to achieve the highest realism. Maybe you're used to the FFB giving you silly extra info while taking a turn or decelerating. If this is so it will only make you slower. For me the closer FFB is to realistic, the faster I go. But if you're having it create forces because you prefer those forces you're going to be slower. The most minimal FFB will allow you to go the fastest.

Edit: also deadzone removal range and linkage stiffness are completely unrelated

konnos
03-10-2015, 16:00
Yes ok, but what exactly are you referring to as realistic, cars like GT3s and upwards are known to convey road feel and what the car is doing. I m looking for an informative wheel, not how a real wheel would actually feel by itself. I m not trying to be very critical here, but a simulation of just how a real wheel would feel is of little use to me, the goal is to feel all the forces that you can't feel, since I m not actually driving.

Again, it might work better for your wheel, but it's about average for me. I m not expecting tiny little forces to make me believe i m driving (although it adds immersion) but at the very least I need to feel grip levels in turns.

Sorry I can't be more informative on my criticism, all I can say is the wheel is too flat for my taste and especially when driving beast machines I would expect more forces conveyed through the wheel. I don't want it to rip my arms off obviously, but I guess i m looking for more dynamic. I guess I ll be trying it again with more cars since I only tried 3

Krus Control
03-10-2015, 16:17
What you want here is very specific and much more difficult to achieve. What you are saying basically is that real information produced realistically in the FFB is not useful to you. You want the info to be more prominent in specific places. This is a very difficult feat to reproduce in all cars and I don't know if it is possible. In the real world cars with electric power steering tend to feel a bit flat. The reason that race cars give good road feel is because the have very nice or no power steering. What I am reproducing is much closer to electric power steering. To get that vivid feel you want, get an accuforce or better. My settings are very close to what electric power steering feels like.

forhaud
07-10-2015, 17:32
Really not bad, you have rediscovered the value " fy " , It has good feeling.
I do not like at all the cars , but I 'm something special, I do not like the SoP Differential scale .

A greeting and thanks , good supply !

Krus Control
10-10-2015, 23:36
Yeah, Fy accounts for most of the info you feel IRL. My settings are focused on Fy. I think the differential scale gives a great feel for the rear end. It's like what you get IRL when the rear unsettles and it's pretty vivid. It is, however artificial. If the front wheels lift off the ground you'll still get the differential and other SoP feedback. You can turn SoP off and turn Fx up and it will give a similar feel.

Krus Control
29-10-2015, 16:05
I updated these settings since the new DLC. Got them to feel exactly right with the GT86.

poirqc
29-10-2015, 20:14
I updated these settings since the new DLC. Got them to feel exactly right with the GT86.

In the screenshot of the OP, one of them is at TF 25 and the other one is at TF 19.

I can't test it because all my stuff is put aside, it just got my attention.

Cheers.

konnos
29-10-2015, 20:17
in the bottom left of the screenshot there is the version number, I suppose v5 is the newest one.

Jack Spade
30-10-2015, 08:10
I donīt know if you are aware of the fact that FFB is directly derived from car/tire physics, each and every car/tire spits out individual (different) data.
Changing tires and adjusting caster angles for instance have a certain impact on FFB response as well. In general there is a great amount of difference of
the forces levels even among the same type of cars hence balancing all of it with an universal setting is just wishful thinking. How can it be the Clio and
a high down force car like the FA sharing the same setting? Even if their levels of forces would be identical their masters probably not, an other dilemma
of your theory.

Krus Control
31-10-2015, 01:48
If you're having to make massive changes from car to car then your settings are probably quite off. These settings do in fact work for all cars. Maybe not optimal for downforce cars. I haven't gone in depth with downforce because I have no real life experience with it. But for road and historic these are spot on. These produce quite lifelike FFB in all cars. I didn't set out to do this, it just happened that this is what works. Try them if you're so darn skeptical. Why criticize my settings if you have not tried them? They really are great. I wouldn't have posted these settings unless they represented a major step forward and probably a step up from what people are used to. Also I fixed the screenshots. For some reason that one didn't delete when I updated.

Jack Spade
31-10-2015, 06:47
If you're having to make massive changes from car to car then your settings are probably quite off. These settings do in fact work for all cars. Maybe not optimal for downforce cars. I haven't gone in depth with downforce because I have no real life experience with it. But for road and historic these are spot on. These produce quite lifelike FFB in all cars. I didn't set out to do this, it just happened that this is what works. Try them if you're so darn skeptical. Why criticize my settings if you have not tried them? They really are great. I wouldn't have posted these settings unless they represented a major step forward and probably a step up from what people are used to. Also I fixed the screenshots. For some reason that one didn't delete when I updated.

BTW Iīve been through all of this tweaking more than 3 years of WMD so donīt need to try it cause I already know an universal setting canīt work for
all of them cars. Massive changes are partly necessary cause the SMS car/tire physics spits out massively different data even among the same group
of cars, if you think thatīs off ask SMS. I know what Iīm talking about cause I did a long lasting assessment of every force on every car and I can
assure you there are only a few cars where you have similarities on all forces. Your theory is obsolete if thereīs only one exception to the rule, but
fact is there are already 102 exceptions in game.

Krus Control
31-10-2015, 12:29
I've tried your settings and they lack something on my wheel. You can't be serious here. You can tell exactly 0% from looking at settings. If you haven't tried these then seriously f*** off.

Neil Bateman
31-10-2015, 14:03
Jack, regardless of what you know and have experienced there are still many people struggling to find a good base from which to start from, they also dont have hours to spend setting up every single car.

Your tweakers may work for most but not all, so those that dont use them dont use them for a reason, that does not mean whatever settings they do use are wrong, there is no right and wrong here because not everyone knows how ffb should feel or exactly how a race car should feel with just a wheel as the only reference point, they are not racing experts so rely more on finding a set up that feels good for them and which allows them to enjoy the game, nobody can tell anybody else all their settings are wrong because its all down to personal preference.

I dont use your tweakers as they dont work for me, i never change ffb settings in car set up, i have my overall ffb settings that feels ok and allows me to race just fine in any car i choose, i am a casual racer who just gets in the car and drives and i never change my settings once i get a reasonable feel through my wheel so the overall global settings krus posted are the only thing i would be interested in trying.

redruMKO
31-10-2015, 23:09
In answer to Konnos... The Linkage Scale is set to zero, so the Linkage Stiffness is not even used.

Krus! Great work. I have the same roadcar, and have also been testing / prepping for this moment! I posted mine in the G29 thread already [version Twelvety] and look forward to trying yours, as it sounds like we have similar goals / methods. [Fy heavy]

Also, in a similar way to the Linkage thing above, I wonder what your SoftClip is doing. Does it feel any different if you move that SCHalf value? Because I think with SCFull at zero the whole thing is switched off.

And trying not to offend Jack, who has done a massive amount here... I think maybe some Uber-settings to rule them all might have been possible, but given some headroom that SMS would not accept, but that Krus and I do not mind... Maybe some cars in my setups will not be getting 1OO% force, I don't mind too much. Needing to setup/test every car FFB differently - should have been done at the factory, that is a deal-breaker for me.

Krus Control
01-11-2015, 01:32
Maybe soft clipping is doing nothing. I just have it as a precaution I think. Or maybe I just left that up. I don't remember honestly. My settings aren't so much a case of not wanting to set up every car or trying to create the uber setup. I was just fine tuning my settings and I found this awesome balance. It seems to work on everything. I used to be of the same opinion as Jack, but these settings are quite good and I suggest that more people try them. Also fine tuning is certainly possible from here and you can always change each car's setup. This is at the very least a good starting point that should work well on everything with no tinkering like the system the game should have come with. An F1 car will feel like an F1 car because it's sending F1 car physics information, not because you tailored your ffb to focus on certain things. There are fewer hiccups. If ffb settings are not correct they can cause you to make mistakes or drive certain cars differently. There are lots of reasons for this but really it's a matter of focusing on the right type, range, and scale of forces. All of this can be done in the master settings. If done right, then very similar settings will work on each car and produce a unique feel naturally. I have a degree in mixing audio, which is honestly very similar to mixing ffb. Think of it like this: that it is possible to create an audio mix where you can play any song through it (different cars) and it will sound good on any speaker (different wheels). You can listen on a certain speaker and know how something will sound on other speakers, especially if it is one that you are intimately familiar with. Furthermore it is best to optimize certain parts of a signal chain when mixing audio (or ffb) and run low levels with high definition. This is something that was non existent in almost any settings I've tried. You can clip at more than one place in a signal chain. For instance, you can clip ffb at the vehicle level, where Fxyz are mixed or you can clip Fy individually. Anywhere you can move a fader and adjust gain, you can clip there. All the other settings I've tried have the vehicle settings too high. FFB is complicated.

konnos
01-11-2015, 12:01
The only problem I have with this "one car setup to rule them all" is that there are different types of cars in the game. You are suggesting this one setup derived from GT-86 (if i understood correctly) and that is fine. The problem is, that with your wheel setup, you can't tell the fine differences that the many options have in-car FFB and that is why I think you are dismissing Jack's files, you can't tell as big a difference as you might have imagined.

You rely on Steering Gain to give you power to the wheel and a very low 0.10 SChalf to give you some sort of definition in the low forces. You are missing a lot by doing that, and on top, you have stiffened the wheel with a high 0.10 WheelSmoothing (stiffness is a side-effect, I like a wheel like that, but I admit that it masks ffb effects). So you have a more wooden wheel, and you can only feel the changes in torque from Relative Gain settings.
There is nothing wrong with wanting a wheel like that, but the system can give more detail, but it's being masked.

So on to Jack's files. You say this is just a base and you can of course tweak the cars to your liking. But that is what Hack has done. If you open his .xml files for, lets say, GT3s you will notice a trend. About 0.3Fx, around 0.7Fy, 1.30Fz and 0.8Mz So he has a template for each class and he then tweaks what he feels should be different for each car. He has only done the work you are talking about, to his opinion of course. And then offered different versions of these settings with six forders to suit other tastes. Like I can see you prefer high Fy and Fz you like to feel the bumps and the weight on your wheel, just to different proportions to what Jack is suggesting.

And lets not forget that we all have different wheels. Even in jack's settings I could change a few things here and there, but his settings are pretty solid, can't really fault them. So with my lowly DFGT I might not be able to see exactly what you re suggesting with your wheel setup, it feels ok, but it's muffled and stiff and I want more from my wheel. So to suggest that one car setup can feel great for everything is a little misguided. I feel that your wheel setup is not letting you feel the differences easily.

Never hurts to try things and I always like a thread with FFB, because I am still not happy with mine and I feel there is a way to get more, even from my cheap wheel. But hey, if you like this kind of wheel and you drive faster like this, I can't blame you, it's all preference.

Krus Control
01-11-2015, 12:44
I've tried Jack's files and there is honestly nothing wrong with them on my wheel. But I thought I could get it feeling better and I have for road cars at least. If you've got a problem with low forces you can use the scoop to bring them out. I like it the way it is but you can totally use some scoop and it would just improve road feel for you. The wheel position smoothing is there because of an oscillation that happens in the karts and Lotus 49 on my wheel. The wheel feels "wooden" because of the lack of road feel but it does reflect the way my car feels at least on my TX. It sound to me that these don't work the best on the DFGT. They're at least not providing the same experience as on my TX or my friend's G27. Try setting scoop knee to .65 and scoop reduction to .3. I disabled scoop to better utilize the dynamic range, but if your road feel is suffering by that much you should probably use some scoop.

Krus Control
01-11-2015, 14:35
I was fiddling with Jack's files today and at least on the TX my settings are lightyears ahead. It did bring to my attention that some of the cars are indeed lacking with these settings. But what I've now found is that the only setting that needs changing from car to car is arm angle. That actually makes a lot of sense. I've been trying the arm angles Jack has listed in his PDF and it is a marked improvement. I'll change the OP once I figure out if these all work right.

bmanic
01-11-2015, 14:48
I've tried your settings and they lack something on my wheel. You can't be serious here. You can tell exactly 0% from looking at settings. If you haven't tried these then seriously f*** off.

You can actually tell a whole lot about settings just by looking at them. As an audio engineer you should know this. I too am an audio engineer (20+ years of experience in the field.. 15 of those doing it for a living). :)

As I also have a TX 458 wheel I know it intimately and to be perfectly frank, your settings do not look optimal at all from a "what is this car doing?" perspective. Okay, so your target is to go for a FFB wheel that feels like your real GT86 wheel but that is very seldom what people simracing want. Instead you want all the nuances and information from the physics that you would normally have translated to you through the chassis/seat.

You really should explore the linearity of your wheel first. Have you measured it with WheelCheck (that little app you can find around the net, first conceived on the iRacing forums)? You have Scoop set to zero which means you are not trying to linearize the top range of the wheel. You also did not post your thrustmaster control panel settings. There is a HUGE difference in linearity of the TX wheel depending on the main FFB strength parameter. My wheel happens to be most linear at around 65-75% strength. Go beyond or below that and the linearity becomes worse.

Also, it's worth noting that without tweaking the individual car FFB settings as well, you can not get super high fidelity grip information. Why? Because Fy forces are so dominant on most cars. Without lowering those there's no hope of getting really informative FFB.

Just my 2 cents on the matter.

Cheers!

bmanic
01-11-2015, 14:53
In answer to Konnos... The Linkage Scale is set to zero, so the Linkage Stiffness is not even used.

Krus! Great work. I have the same roadcar, and have also been testing / prepping for this moment! I posted mine in the G29 thread already [version Twelvety] and look forward to trying yours, as it sounds like we have similar goals / methods. [Fy heavy]

Also, in a similar way to the Linkage thing above, I wonder what your SoftClip is doing. Does it feel any different if you move that SCHalf value? Because I think with SCFull at zero the whole thing is switched off.

And trying not to offend Jack, who has done a massive amount here... I think maybe some Uber-settings to rule them all might have been possible, but given some headroom that SMS would not accept, but that Krus and I do not mind... Maybe some cars in my setups will not be getting 1OO% force, I don't mind too much. Needing to setup/test every car FFB differently - should have been done at the factory, that is a deal-breaker for me.

Keep in mind that you can only ever produce "good" settings for one wheel at a time. Good settings for a Thrustmaster TX 458 will surely not be at all optimal for a Logitech wheel. Why? Because the two are completely different mechanically and have vastly different linearity.. not to mention the difference in the torque of the motor. I gave up a long time ago to make a good universal setting (I tried.. for over a year :) ).

Krus Control
01-11-2015, 15:15
What you are saying does make sense. I would say that it is not possible to see how something sounds or how ffb feels by looking at numbers. If they're similar to yours you can have a good idea, but you could never tell the fine details. You have to listen or feel it for yourself to know. I've looked at plenty of mixes and thought completely different things from how they actually sound. What you are saying about linearity does make sense and I have not optimized my wheel for linearity. I have it set at 95%. These settings still deliver something that is very vivid and close to real life. It's not about linearity. Maybe I could improve my experience. You don't exactly have to optimize the top range of your wheel. It may be that these don't work well on some wheels. But these are using the settings "properly" so it should only be a matter of optimizing wheel linearity if there is a problem. The underlying creation and mixing of the forces before they are sent to the wheel should be the same. Try these out if you haven't. I wouldn't bother posting this if it wasn't a big step up from Jack's settings or any other settings that I've tried.

Krus Control
01-11-2015, 16:01
I've been running the FRS with an arm angle of 700 and it feels quite a bit more realistic. The way I catch and hold slides feels a bit different and a bit more effortless than before, which is how it should be. I'm going to explore this in depth this week and post what I find.

EDIT: settled on 400 as the proper angle for the GT86

redruMKO
07-11-2015, 13:51
Keep in mind that you can only ever produce "good" settings for one wheel at a time. Good settings for a Thrustmaster TX 458 will surely not be at all optimal for a Logitech wheel. Why? Because the two are completely different mechanically and have vastly different linearity.. not to mention the difference in the torque of the motor. I gave up a long time ago to make a good universal setting (I tried.. for over a year :) ).

...OK. I'm sure it is difficult, and credit for trying.

But. They aren't that different. Out of the 2OO FFB variables, you really think the majority of them would need to change between wheels? I think what works well on a hi-fi wheel would work a treat [minus the forces i dont get because i saved $2OOO] on my wheel with only about 5 changes.

edit: [atually, even if this is not true between hifi and lofi wheel, I'm sure it is true for all lofi wheels... and they must hugely outnumber the expensive ones]

poirqc
07-11-2015, 14:11
...OK. I'm sure it is difficult, and credit for trying.

But. They aren't that different. Out of the 2OO FFB variables, you really think the majority of them would need to change between wheels? I think what works well on a hi-fi wheel would work a treat [minus the forces i dont get because i saved $2OOO] on my wheel with only about 5 changes.

I'll go down in the order of the Settings in pCars,

PWS / PWMS: This change much from wheel to wheel. There's a big difference in base drag between my MOMO and my G27. The momo doesn't move at all where my G27 has almost no resistance.

Deadzones Removals: This change much from wheel to wheel. My MOMO almost got no dedzone at 100% strenght where my G27 has about 16% at the same driver setting.

Relative Adjusts: Some motors can rotate faster than others. If pCars send a signal where the wheel must turn left right left right faster than it can(i get that on my G27), you'll only hear the signal instead of feeling it because the motor isn't fast enough to move as the signal tells. Instead of doing the full movement, it only do part of it and you get something else.

Scoops: Well, even with the same wheel, as you move the strenght of the wheel, the wheel responce change. Some wheels are straight, some have a bludged curve, some have a knee.


With all that said, i think a given setup, witch give a certain feeling is mostly reachable with most wheels. It's just a matter of adapting it to a given hardware.

b_akerlite
07-11-2015, 15:26
PWS / PWMS: This change much from wheel to wheel. There's a big difference in base drag between my MOMO and my G27. The momo doesn't move at all where my G27 has almost no resistance.


Hey poirqc - I dont know if I am the only one but i find these settings (relating to base drag?) really help me get it dialled in to get that trick sensation of actually turning the wheel in game? What I am saying is that if I Have the wheel visable in game these are the settings I adjust to get the visual turn in to sync with my real physical input to my g25 - its almost like it visually adjusts the acceleration of (visually ) the wheel turning in game -
its hard to explain what i mean -
does that make sense?!!
I also find when I have pwm/pwms dialled i correct that my application of corrective steering is always more successful..

poirqc
07-11-2015, 15:44
Hey poirqc - I dont know if I am the only one but i find these settings (relating to base drag?) really help me get it dialled in to get that trick sensation of actually turning the wheel in game? What I am saying is that if I Have the wheel visable in game these are the settings I adjust to get the visual turn in to sync with my real physical input to my g25 - its almost like it visually adjusts the acceleration of (visually ) the wheel turning in game -
its hard to explain what i mean -
does that make sense?!!
I also find when I have pwm/pwms dialled i correct that my application of corrective steering is always more successful..

You explained that very well!

I also think that PWM /PWMS is awesome to get an intuitive FFB. i'll just quote myself from our thread!


You want turn ins and turn outs to feel natural to you, where subconsciently, when you turn, it turns at that moment, to the pace you want. Not before, not after.

Cheers!

walken
18-11-2015, 21:11
Krus, your settings are awesome !!! tried for first time with gt86 bunny at glen short time trial, and got into top ten ah ah !!! Fantastic !!!

thank you a lot !!! may be now i can personalize them a bit, but they are fast and furious !!!!

Maxx

Krus Control
18-11-2015, 21:28
Great to hear. What wheel are you usinng?

Edit: never mind I just noticed DFGT in your specs

walken
18-11-2015, 23:31
Just an old dftp.... !!! :)

Thank you again.

now I would like to try to write a python program to edit files with you setting, to be used just like jack spade ones for all cars...

Krus Control
18-11-2015, 23:39
You can plug my settings into the tweaker files. Technically it's less work than going to every car. I'm fine with the system in the game.

chrisff87
19-11-2015, 15:03
Krus, for your TX settings in the Control Panel (windows, not the game itself), are you using the ones posted in bmaniac's thread?

Krus Control
19-11-2015, 15:29
Indeed I am

Edit: included screenshot in OP

mbr72
24-12-2015, 14:37
I think you are very wrong with this approach. Of course the wheel in a Sim has to create more effects than IRL. Why? Because the Sim lacks important information I get IRL, such as lateral G-forces (turning) and longitudinal forces (acceleration/breaking)! If I only had the forces as I would get in my car, I would be completely lost in the Sim and my lap times would suck big time!

Mahjik
24-12-2015, 15:18
I think you are very wrong with this approach. Of course the wheel in a Sim has to create more effects than IRL. Why? Because the Sim lacks important information I get IRL, such as lateral G-forces (turning) and longitudinal forces (acceleration/breaking)! If I only had the forces as I would get in my car, I would be completely lost in the Sim and my lap times would suck big time!

That's why pCARS has many adjustments so each individual can tune the FFB to their own specific liking. Everyone will like/want something different. The good thing is that they can tune it their way if they desire.

Krus Control
24-12-2015, 21:00
It depends on how you drive. If you have a real life reference, then you will want it to feel as close as possible. If you don't have a reference or have never felt a car that is anything like what you are driving, then other things might work just as well for you under certain circumstances. What I've found though, is that you will perform better with the feel as close to real life as possible. But if you've only developed your skills in sims then different FFB might be preferable to you. I think you'll be able to go faster and make stints last longer the closer you get to a real feel. At least this has been the case with me.

Krus Control
17-02-2016, 18:17
I updated the settings in the OP. I developed some settings that produce a feel as good as anything on my TX with the default setups in every car. I don't 100% understand why it feels so good but this current configuration really blows what I used to use out of the water. It has my TX performing in a different category.

poirqc
17-02-2016, 20:22
I updated the settings in the OP. I developed some settings that produce a feel as good as anything on my TX with the default setups in every car. I don't 100% understand why it feels so good but this current configuration really blows what I used to use out of the water. It has my TX performing in a different category.

I didn't see the Bmw 2002 SW Arm angle. Could you share it?

Thanks,

Krus Control
17-02-2016, 23:25
I didn't see the Bmw 2002 SW Arm angle. Could you share it?

Thanks,

I use 100, but up to 300 feels pretty similar. Sometimes 100-200 too high causes snappy spikes during opposite lock.

Krus Control
18-02-2016, 00:07
I updated the list and included a bunch more cars. I'll do more when I spend enough time with them.

tennenbaum
21-02-2016, 21:17
You can actually tell a whole lot about settings just by looking at them. As an audio engineer you should know this. I too am an audio engineer (20+ years of experience in the field.. 15 of those doing it for a living). :)

As I also have a TX 458 wheel I know it intimately and to be perfectly frank, your settings do not look optimal at all from a "what is this car doing?" perspective. Okay, so your target is to go for a FFB wheel that feels like your real GT86 wheel but that is very seldom what people simracing want. Instead you want all the nuances and information from the physics that you would normally have translated to you through the chassis/seat.

You really should explore the linearity of your wheel first. Have you measured it with WheelCheck (that little app you can find around the net, first conceived on the iRacing forums)? You have Scoop set to zero which means you are not trying to linearize the top range of the wheel. You also did not post your thrustmaster control panel settings. There is a HUGE difference in linearity of the TX wheel depending on the main FFB strength parameter. My wheel happens to be most linear at around 65-75% strength. Go beyond or below that and the linearity becomes worse.

Also, it's worth noting that without tweaking the individual car FFB settings as well, you can not get super high fidelity grip information. Why? Because Fy forces are so dominant on most cars. Without lowering those there's no hope of getting really informative FFB.

Just my 2 cents on the matter.

Cheers!

very interesting discussion (to me)!

tennenbaum
21-02-2016, 21:21
It depends on how you drive. If you have a real life reference, then you will want it to feel as close as possible. If you don't have a reference or have never felt a car that is anything like what you are driving, then other things might work just as well for you under certain circumstances. What I've found though, is that you will perform better with the feel as close to real life as possible. But if you've only developed your skills in sims then different FFB might be preferable to you. I think you'll be able to go faster and make stints last longer the closer you get to a real feel. At least this has been the case with me.

valid point.

SGETI
10-03-2016, 19:22
how about the KTM X-Bow, any suggestions would be appreciated.

Krus Control
11-03-2016, 02:53
I run 1300 on the Xbow.

bporion
27-05-2016, 00:41
Wanted to try your settings on my V2 for a while now and they work great !! Could you update your arm angles in the near future ? Great job !

Krus Control
02-06-2017, 17:32
I just updated these settings and they're pretty damn well perfect now. Maybe more of you can give these a try because in some cases this feels literally better than my real car.

BSDShoes
14-07-2017, 12:46
I will have to give this a look, I play just about every sim(cade) racer out there and PCARS is the only one that feels "off" when I come back to play it and takes some getting used to.

I changed the settings on the Xbox One version and it's much better as well.