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CLOWN KAOSZ
06-10-2015, 06:14
Hello,

I already posted this in the TX discussion thread but didn't get a response so thats why I'm making a new thread.
I'm having problems with my TX wheel and it's the following:

Since about a week or so it doens't center itself anymore. Well it does move hard from left to right but it keeps doing that. It clips hard and it won't stop unless I grab it myself. It's only when the wheel has to center itself, it's not ingame!!! Ingame I only lose the FFb.
When this started I also noticed that my FFB drops hard to almost nothing. I contacted the Thrustmaster helpdesk (I called them) and we tried different things with the wheel and control panel. At first hand it looked like it helped but unfortunately it didn't last long, not even a day.

Is there someone who also had this issue and maybe can help me out???
Is my wheel (base) broken?

I like to hear from you guys!
Thanks

inthebagbud
06-10-2015, 06:26
It would be good if you could post your ffb wheel,settings so people can try and help

yusupov
06-10-2015, 06:54
did you uninstall & reinstall the drivers? sounds like the motors working but somethings gone haywire...

CLOWN KAOSZ
06-10-2015, 06:57
did you uninstall & reinstall the drivers? sounds like the motors working but somethings gone haywire...

I did un- and reinstall the drivers before I updated the wheel to V50. Indeed something is gone haywire and I do hope that I can fix it myself (without messing the wheel up).
I'll do the un- and reinstall again today just to check what it does!

CLOWN KAOSZ
06-10-2015, 07:01
It would be good if you could post your ffb wheel,settings so people can try and help

I will post them when I'm home, because I'm at work now :). But I do have to say I use the same FFB settings for a longggg time now and never had any issues.
For the car settings I use Jack Spades spreadsheet, the Bump version, because of the feel of the car.

FlyLastShadow
06-10-2015, 07:19
Ive had something like that happening to me a while ago. Wheel would just jerk left right until i stopped it myself.

But mine started doing this after i did a calibration in the game after a new patch. I didnt do a hard reset of my xbox after the patch and wen i did calibration i didnt reset settings before calibrating.( that were the reason given to me what could have gone wrong)

So after i did the hard reset and in calibration first i hit that Y button to resset and did the recalibration again and the issue was gone for me.

Hope you get yours sorted out.

CLOWN KAOSZ
06-10-2015, 07:26
Ive had something like that happening to me a while ago. Wheel would just jerk left right until i stopped it myself.

But mine started doing this after i did a calibration in the game after a new patch. I didnt do a hard reset of my xbox after the patch and wen i did calibration i didnt reset settings before calibrating.( that were the reason given to me what could have gone wrong)

So after i did the hard reset and in calibration first i hit that Y button to resset and did the recalibration again and the issue was gone for me.

Hope you get yours sorted out.

It sounds pretty similar indeed, did you had it ingame during racing or only when you started up the wheel before racing?
Ingame I lose FFB but the wheel doesn't jerk from left to right!

CLOWN KAOSZ
06-10-2015, 08:35
This thread can be closed.

I just came upon the answer what the problem is with my wheel (see the link)
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35710-Need-help-choseing-a-racing-wheel-for-Pcars/page4

Check comment #36 from Dynomight Motorsport and his attached video!

STEELJOCKEY
06-10-2015, 09:09
Just before you do that, have you checked the splitter connection in the USB cable?

yusupov
06-10-2015, 09:32
im more than a little wary of the guys whove gone through 3+ wheels...yes, the wheel can overheat...so, maybe take that into consideration? bc its not simply a matter of hours used, but how hard youre running it. i think these people are using way too much gain & not learning from it.

anyway, that doesnt seem to be your issue here, the 'hall sensor' (have to confess ive no idea what this is) thing seems different, as in this cases the motor isnt dead or anything, i assume its simply a defective wheel...hope TM will give you a new one.

CLOWN KAOSZ
06-10-2015, 09:58
im more than a little wary of the guys whove gone through 3+ wheels...yes, the wheel can overheat...so, maybe take that into consideration? bc its not simply a matter of hours used, but how hard youre running it. i think these people are using way too much gain & not learning from it.

Yep I know that it can overheat but the fan of the TX should go on at a certain temperature and it automaticly puts the FFB on weaker settings to prefend it from overheating even more. Also with the new update, V50, they made changes for the fan to improve them. But oke, this is my first time I've got problems with the wheel.

anyway, that doesnt seem to be your issue here, the 'hall sensor' (have to confess ive no idea what this is) thing seems different, as in this cases the motor isnt dead or anything, i assume its simply a defective wheel...hope TM will give you a new one.

It sure is defective because it just won't center anymore, it keeps doing the exact same thing as in that video and I could grab it, but TM themselfs say that you shouldn't do that...so I don't :)...


We will see how the retailer is gonna go with it.
BTW: What did you mean by they are using way to much gain? I for myself don't think I use the wrong setups etc. and in de control panel I put the overall setting of the FFB on 75 (is default for V50)

CLOWN KAOSZ
06-10-2015, 10:01
Just before you do that, have you checked the splitter connection in the USB cable?

No I didn't checked the splitter...because I'm not sure what to look at and what is right or wrong. Could you help me out with that by images or something??

yusupov
06-10-2015, 10:19
We will see how the retailer is gonna go with it.
BTW: What did you mean by they are using way to much gain? I for myself don't think I use the wrong setups etc. and in de control panel I put the overall setting of the FFB on 75 (is default for V50)

well i dont think you burn up 2-3 wheels in a short span just by bad luck. i notice its usually console users & from what i understand the default there used to be 100% in the profiler instead of 75. then the default gain in pCARS was 2.00. so if you just plug & play, the wheel was running over 3x what it probably should be (if you want to largely avoid clipping)...that would result in a very heavy wheel & terrible feedback but if you arent used to race sims you probably wouldnt know its wrong. i think that combination is responsible for the trend of TM 'horror stories' ive read here (but nowhere else). its also normal for people new to sims to want very heavy wheels because they havent learned the ffb 'language' yet & dont realize how much information theyre missing.

again, not saying any of that has to do with your problem, some wheels just break down & i do believe there may be something to the idea that TM makes less reliable/more delicate wheels than logitech or fanatec (sure these will randomly break down too, but i dont recall reading any accounts of these brands being cooked like i have TM wheels). but even if there is its not to the point i think it should effect purchasing decisions.

STEELJOCKEY
06-10-2015, 10:23
duplicate post below

STEELJOCKEY
06-10-2015, 10:25
No I didn't checked the splitter...because I'm not sure what to look at and what is right or wrong. Could you help me out with that by images or something??

Pull the USB cable out of the Xbox, about a foot from the Xbox end of the cable is a joiner in the middle of the line, which splits in half. It's there for safety in case you trip over the cable it pulls apart at this point. It has been known to be defective, or come loose by accident. Pull it apart and put back together, be mindful it only goes one way, so you might need a bright light to check the pin alignment.

Dynomight Motorsports
07-10-2015, 00:54
Default Gain is at 1.0, I know because i reset it to default. My issue of two of my bases, were I was still running 100 tire force and 100 FFB after patch 3.0 The new Firmware V50 is specifically to combat the issue that happened to my first 2 bases which was overheating. You can now force on the cooling fan. I pulled the base apart on my first two wheels and found a melted molex plug on the transformer. Probably due to, too much amp draw by the motor. PCars has fiddled with the FFB on the TX in those patches and I was simply caught off guard by it. The third wheel base was due to a hall sensor failure. The hall sensor is a magnetic sensor that detects the position of the wheel at all times. You can google it, but I'm a Technician that has worked on everything from appliances to bio-medical equipment.

Goods_1973
07-10-2015, 02:15
New wheel required. I had the same issue. Transformer is starting to melt down.

yusupov
07-10-2015, 02:34
it may be 1.00 now after patch 4, before that it was 2.00 and before that i think it mayve even been 3.00

Dynomight Motorsports
07-10-2015, 02:45
Well it could have been 2.0 and I found out the hard way, because I didn't adjust my settings after patch 2.0 or 3.0 My 3rd base that had the hall sensor failure was delivered on the day 4.0 came out. I like a firm wheel, but since I've been using the Spider I was able to enjoy my new FFB without feeling like I made it child friendly.

CLOWN KAOSZ
07-10-2015, 07:28
As far as I know I always used the default settings on gain. Because I didn't knew that it could be an issue.
I'll try some things out just to see what it does. But I contacted the retailer already because I have a 2 year warranty on mechanical failures. I have my wheel since June this year. So if it isn't repairable I should get my money back to by a new one!
I'll keep an eye on the settings though just to make sure of the base is repaired/replaced it won't happen again (although, you never can be sure).

@Yusupov: I'm not new to racesim/games but I am with using a steering wheel. I always used a controller before but when this game came out, I knew a wheel was a MUST HAVE :). Because I'm new to the wheel I'm not totally aware of which settings are right or wrong when default or adjusted.
I used some of the things that were posted on this forum and they helped a lot by giving more feeling through the steering wheel of what the car ingame does.

Uhm, I checked the splitter STEELJOCKEY but that isn't the issue...it's definitely something in the base itself.

STEELJOCKEY
07-10-2015, 07:36
At least you've checked everything now. Must have been one of the bad batch unfortunately, these things happen sometimes.

Mine has been flogged hard for 2 years now, so there is hope there have been good ones in the past, and hopefully again soon, they are a great wheel to drive with. All the best with sorting out your issue.

nissan4ever
07-10-2015, 17:17
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?40483-Problem-with-TX

Read post #11 & follow to the letter.

Let me know how you're wheel performed after doing that.

GTsimms
08-10-2015, 22:35
im more than a little wary of the guys whove gone through 3+ wheels...yes, the wheel can overheat...so, maybe take that into consideration? bc its not simply a matter of hours used, but how hard youre running it. i think these people are using way too much gain & not learning from it.


Agreed^, that would be the case for most gamers see my postings in signature link about ffb.

nissan4ever
08-10-2015, 22:44
Agreed^, that would be the case for most gamers see my postings in signature link about ffb.

I also agree. My TX turns 2 yrs old next month.

Nickname85
10-10-2015, 14:43
I'm can't agree with you on that. I am sending back my second wheel... The first wheel didn't do anything (didn't turn on at all) and the second wheel loses it connection with the xbox after 30 seconds. The only ffb I used, is when the wheel calibrates itself.

And I don't think it is only marketing that thrustmaster released a new base recently. I think there is something wrong in the design with the 2013 base on a bigger scale.

Dynomight Motorsports
12-10-2015, 02:44
I'm can't agree with you on that. I am sending back my second wheel... The first wheel didn't do anything (didn't turn on at all) and the second wheel loses it connection with the xbox after 30 seconds. The only ffb I used, is when the wheel calibrates itself.

And I don't think it is only marketing that thrustmaster released a new base recently. I think there is something wrong in the design with the 2013 base on a bigger scale.

don't send it back just yet, just try wiggling the USB Quick break-away connection. If you wheel comes back to life, that's all it is. It may take weeks before you get it replaced. The break-away connection on those wheels are sketchy sometimes and just needs to be wiggled.

Nickname85
12-10-2015, 15:26
Thanks for the reply. But I tried everything... And I don't know how the consumer law works where everybody's from, but here in Holland you return it to the shop where you bought it. And they need to replace it /repair it. I don't send it directly to thrustmaster. My first wheel that broke was send to the (web) shop on a Monday and I had my replacement on a Friday. My second wheel is on its way to the shop again.