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Xtince
07-10-2015, 04:48
So i did a brake mod to my t100 brake pedal. It is almost the same isrtv used for the t300 pedals.

But when i calibrate the brake pedal after the mod it goes to max 62 and not 100. I have the feeling it is not an big issue in racing (didnt race that much after the mod, just tried it out), but my times are not any better then without the mod (or i just suck big time :)).

Is the calibration to 62 not good, so must i always be on 100? If thats so than my brake mod isnt any good?

Or must i not calibrate the pedals after the mod?

Thanks!

Haiden
07-10-2015, 13:19
I thought the point of calibrating the wheel and pedals was to teach/show the game the ranges of your particular hardware. If your pedal only goes to 62, the game will rescale so that your 0-62, is the same as 0-100 in-game. Sames for the wheel. You can always test it out by looking at the telemetry in-car. Even though you calibrate it to 62, the brake meter in your telemetry should reach 100 (full bar) when you apply max pressure to the brake. If it doesn't, then you have a problem.

Xtince
07-10-2015, 17:47
I thought the point of calibrating the wheel and pedals was to teach/show the game the ranges of your particular hardware. If your pedal only goes to 62, the game will rescale so that your 0-62, is the same as 0-100 in-game. Sames for the wheel. You can always test it out by looking at the telemetry in-car. Even though you calibrate it to 62, the brake meter in your telemetry should reach 100 (full bar) when you apply max pressure to the brake. If it doesn't, then you have a problem.

Thanks! I will check the telemetry!

Haiden
07-10-2015, 18:35
Thanks! I will check the telemetry!

No worries. I use the conical brake mod with my pedals and can only get the calibration meter to around 70. But in-game, my brake meter goes all the way up. Which reminds me... One thing I have noticed is that when I start my first session, the first time I hit the track, I pull over and have to give the brake 2-3 hard presses before it will go all the way to the top. The first few presses, it will only go about halfway, then suddenly it will jump to full, and then from that point on, it works fine. It's like it needs a quick in-game calibration. But after that, it's good from session to session, until I close out of the actual game itself. I often forget to that, and then remember as soon as I notice my braking points seem off. They're not off, I'm just not getting enough pressure to the brakes. I once read a post where someone claimed that Thrustmaster recommends you calibrate the pedals when you a load a game by giving the brake pedal several hard presses. That sounds like the fix I've been using. But the strange thing is, I didn't need to do that before I got my T3PA pedals and started using the conical mod.

SIR_Driftalot
07-10-2015, 22:49
No worries. I use the conical brake mod with my pedals and can only get the calibration meter to around 70. But in-game, my brake meter goes all the way up. Which reminds me... One thing I have noticed is that when I start my first session, the first time I hit the track, I pull over and have to give the brake 2-3 hard presses before it will go all the way to the top. The first few presses, it will only go about halfway, then suddenly it will jump to full, and then from that point on, it works fine. It's like it needs a quick in-game calibration. But after that, it's good from session to session, until I close out of the actual game itself. I often forget to that, and then remember as soon as I notice my braking points seem off. They're not off, I'm just not getting enough pressure to the brakes. I once read a post where someone claimed that Thrustmaster recommends you calibrate the pedals when you a load a game by giving the brake pedal several hard presses. That sounds like the fix I've been using. But the strange thing is, I didn't need to do that before I got my T3PA
pedals and started using the conical mod.

Same here. I also use the T3PA pedal set, and I've found that if I don't give the brakes a good hard pump at the first turn coming out of the pits in free practice or qualy the brake meter in the telemetry will only go to around 80% when I've got the pedal fully depressed. It's just another thing you get used to doing as part of your out lap preparations.
Adds a little more realism to me, getting the brakes and the tyres in the right place for a hot lap is a pretty important aspect of any racing discipline.

Cheers

Edit: I also don't have any Mods applied to my T3PA set, so it might be fundamental kinda thing.

Haiden
07-10-2015, 23:44
Same here. I also use the T3PA pedal set, and I've found that if I don't give the brakes a good hard pump at the first turn coming out of the pits in free practice or qualy the brake meter in the telemetry will only go to around 80% when I've got the pedal fully depressed. It's just another thing you get used to doing as part of your out lap preparations.
Adds a little more realism to me, getting the brakes and the tyres in the right place for a hot lap is a pretty important aspect of any racing discipline.


Ha! That the exact thought that was going through my head when you mentioned pumping the brakes before lap prep. :)

Roger Prynne
08-10-2015, 14:14
I always have to depress my pedals fully before starting the game, otherwise I would have a very sensitive pedals in-game if I didn't.

Paulzx
09-10-2015, 17:47
I always have to depress my pedals fully before starting the game, otherwise I would have a very sensitive pedals in-game if I didn't.

This is interesting because I got the conical mod but couldn't get on with it. Does anyone else find the rubber cone just way too hard?
The idea of the mod was to give a more realistic resistance feel rather than putting your brake pedal right the way down all the time,
but I just find with the mod, there's no real travel in the pedal which actually feels to me, more unrealistic than without the mod.

I tend to think the cone needs to be a bit softer?

Cumulonimbis
09-10-2015, 18:55
I saw this thread a couple days ago, checked out this isrtv mod you're referring to and thought it was an awesome idea! I ran to the store and bought all these different sized rubber corks. After some trial and error I wound up with a cork I epoxied to my pedal that almost reaches the stop at 90. I carved the rubber away until it was about 15mm at the base and looked like a cone with a cylinder on top. It still felt stiff so I drilled some rubber out of the center of the base then using a really small drill bit I kept drilling random holes to remove rubber until it felt good. Awesome mod! I have a T100 with the stock pedals.

Paulzx
10-10-2015, 08:54
I saw this thread a couple days ago, checked out this isrtv mod you're referring to and thought it was an awesome idea! I ran to the store and bought all these different sized rubber corks. After some trial and error I wound up with a cork I epoxied to my pedal that almost reaches the stop at 90. I carved the rubber away until it was about 15mm at the base and looked like a cone with a cylinder on top. It still felt stiff so I drilled some rubber out of the center of the base then using a really small drill bit I kept drilling random holes to remove rubber until it felt good. Awesome mod! I have a T100 with the stock pedals.

I was thinking along the same lines, a custom rubber cone etc, I don't think the original cone is that good. A stiffer spring would have probably been better actually

Feetabix
11-10-2015, 21:02
The conical mod works, but I had to adjust my dead zone so braking starts when the pedal first hits it and all the braking is done over say 5mm of pedal movement, similar to my road car.......to not do so means the mod just effectively shortens the pedal travel......does that make sense?

sbtm
11-10-2015, 21:40
I don't know but I have 50% brake power when the pedal hits the rubber and then I have to use muscle to get to 100%.
Afaik it's better and realistic to brake with muscle memory so called the pressure you give the pedal. And since 50% (or maybe it's less) braking is like no braking at all in a race car I really like how I adjusted the rubber mod and the ingame deadzones and sliders...

Haiden
12-10-2015, 19:31
This is interesting because I got the conical mod but couldn't get on with it. Does anyone else find the rubber cone just way too hard?
The idea of the mod was to give a more realistic resistance feel rather than putting your brake pedal right the way down all the time,
but I just find with the mod, there's no real travel in the pedal which actually feels to me, more unrealistic than without the mod.

I tend to think the cone needs to be a bit softer?


I don't know but I have 50% brake power when the pedal hits the rubber and then I have to use muscle to get to 100%.
Afaik it's better and realistic to brake with muscle memory so called the pressure you give the pedal. And since 50% (or maybe it's less) braking is like no braking at all in a race car I really like how I adjusted the rubber mod and the ingame deadzones and sliders...

Sounds like you need to adjust the mod placement. I think I have my bracket set to the far back position and then only a few millimeters of thread showing between the bracket plate and the bottom of the rubber cone. I get about 50-65% travel, and then I have to use a little more deliberate force to get it the rest of the way, but nothing too crazy. I don't have to stand on them, just press with a little more intention. It's been a while since I set it up, and I can't remember exactly, but I do recall that I had to try a few bracket placements. Some of the closer ones didn't feel right--way too stiff. But right now I have about 5 millimeters of throw before pedal arm touches the cone. I had to adjust my brake deadzone to compensate, but it's fine now. I love that mod.

Schnizz58
12-10-2015, 19:37
Something else you might think about is adjusting the brake sensitivity setting. I think the default is 50, which gives you linear response. If you increase that number, you'll get a more progressive behavior. Meaning that the response is fairly weak at first but gets disproportionately stronger as you push harder. I haven't tried it myself but if I was using the conical rubber mod, I'd play around with that setting to see if it made it feel more realistic.

ETA: I meant to say decrease sensitivity rather than increase.

Robhd
12-10-2015, 19:43
When i first fitted the brake mod icouldn't calibrate the pedal to 100% but afte a bit of adjustment on the mod i was able to get to 100 when calibrating and haven't experienced any such issues since.

Schnizz58
12-10-2015, 19:47
When i first fitted the brake mod icouldn't calibrate the pedal to 100% but afte a bit of adjustment on the mod i was able to get to 100 when calibrating and haven't experienced any such issues since.
It isn't necessary to make it go all the way to 100 when calibrating. In fact it might be counterproductive to do so. The calibration is so that the game can find out what 100% is for you and scale things accordingly.

Robhd
12-10-2015, 19:57
Thanks for that Schnizz... Tomorrow i am going to have another play with it and try a firmer pedal with the mod more screwed in.

Haiden
12-10-2015, 20:27
Something else you might think about is adjusting the brake sensitivity setting. I think the default is 50, which gives you linear response. If you increase that number, you'll get a more progressive behavior. Meaning that the response is fairly weak at first but gets disproportionately stronger as you push harder. I haven't tried it myself but if I was using the conical rubber mod, I'd play around with that setting to see if it made it feel more realistic.

Yes. I forgot about that. I had to adjust the brake sensitivity on mine. Although, I found I had to decrease it. When I was using the wheel stand, I had it set to 45, but now with my cockpit, my sitting position is different and I'm able to apply way more pressure with less force, so I ended lowering it to 35. Once I did that, it felt fine.


It isn't necessary to make it go all the way to 100 when calibrating. In fact it might be counterproductive to do so. The calibration is so that the game can find out what 100% is for you and scale things accordingly.

^^This!!! I see a lot of people complaining that they can't get the calibration meter to 100%. Schnizz is right; that's not the point, and counter productive. The calibration tool is meant to sync the game's expected ranges to your hardware's actual ranges. Press the pedal exactly as you would in game. If 65 is the best you can get, that's fine. That's what the game is needs to know.

Also, something else to consider... I've read this, and found it to be true for myself, and have seen a few others confirm it. When you first boot the game, the T3PA pedals don't calibrate/sync up properly. You can see this by pulling up the telemetry, when you first hit the track, and watching the brake meter when you press the pedal all the way. The first few presses it only goes about half way, until you give it a few good full presses, then it goes all the way to 100%. Once you get it to go all the way to 100%, it's good, as long as you don't reboot your wheel. But if you don't press it out, it will stay like that, and your braking points will be completely off. I'm bet any money, this has caused a lot of confusion for people. Don't know why, but it seems to only be an issue with the T3PA Pro pedal set.

Schnizz58
12-10-2015, 20:35
Yes. I forgot about that. I had to adjust the brake sensitivity on mine. Although, I found I had to decrease it. When I was using the wheel stand, I had it set to 45, but now with my cockpit, my sitting position is different and I'm able to apply way more pressure with less force, so I ended lowering it to 35. Once I did that, it felt fine.
Actually what I said was incorrect. Reducing it makes it more progressive, not increasing it so thanks for that correction! I'll add a note to my post above.


Also, something else to consider... I've read this, and found it to be true for myself, and have seen a few others confirm it. When you first boot the game, the T3PA pedals don't calibrate/sync up properly. You can see this by pulling up the telemetry, when you first hit the track, and watching the brake meter when you press the pedal all the way. The first few presses it only goes about half way, until you give it a few good full presses, then it goes all the way to 100%. Once you get it to go all the way to 100%, it's good, as long as you don't reboot your wheel. But if you don't press it out, it will stay like that, and your braking points will be completely off. I'm bet any money, this has caused a lot of confusion for people. Don't know why, but it seems to only be an issue with the T3PA Pro pedal set.
This isn't an issue but is the way the pedal set is designed to operate. The Thrustmaster instructions even mention that you should depress the pedals a few times when you first start. There is an internal calibration that the wheel does in addition to the calibration performed by the game.

Paulzx
14-10-2015, 17:57
Nope, don't like it, tried it again and I think I get better braking feel without the cone behind the pedal.

The real problem is that you get say 5mm of pedal movement before it hits the rubber cone, and although there is some further movement
against the cone, it's only marginal, maybe a couple of mm, so the way it feels with your foot on the pedal is effectively 5mm of travel
then virtually a full stop against the cone.

Yes you can really push on the cone but that's not very satisfactory in my book.

This mod would have been so much better just with a very firm spring that engaged as soon as you push the pedal, so the resistance
is there straight away, but you get the same pedal travel as before, it just gets firmer the further you press the pedal.

You can get used to anything at the end of the day, but what's the point of a rubber cone pedal mod that really just changes the way
the pedal works rather than really improves the feel.

It's just modding the brake pedal for the sake of it and not really improving it - in my opinion

Haiden
14-10-2015, 19:47
Nope, don't like it, tried it again and I think I get better braking feel without the cone behind the pedal.

The real problem is that you get say 5mm of pedal movement before it hits the rubber cone, and although there is some further movement
against the cone, it's only marginal, maybe a couple of mm, so the way it feels with your foot on the pedal is effectively 5mm of travel
then virtually a full stop against the cone.

Yes you can really push on the cone but that's not very satisfactory in my book.

This mod would have been so much better just with a very firm spring that engaged as soon as you push the pedal, so the resistance
is there straight away, but you get the same pedal travel as before, it just gets firmer the further you press the pedal.

You can get used to anything at the end of the day, but what's the point of a rubber cone pedal mod that really just changes the way
the pedal works rather than really improves the feel.

It's just modding the brake pedal for the sake of it and not really improving it - in my opinion

That doesn't sound right at all. I've got about 5-8mm of throw before my pedal touches the cone, but from there, I depress the pedal much further than another 5mm, and that's without applying excessive force. Like I said, it really sounds like your cone is set wrong. Either the bracket itself is too close, or you've the cone's bolt thread screwed too far out.

Also, it's not modding for mods sake. The difference between the cone and the spring is that the spring just makes the pedal travel stiffer. The cone, on the other hand, because of it's sloping shape, gives you progressive resistance. Softer at the start, stiffer as you press harder. Granted it's subjective. But the progressive feel does feel more like a real brake, than a stiff spring.

Paulzx
15-10-2015, 18:34
The bracket fits in behind the pedal in only one position, then you can adjust the screw length on the cone, so mine is about as far back
from the pedal as possible. The problem is that the rubber cone is so hard that when the pedal hits the cone, you can't really push back any further,
so it effectively just feels like you hit a full stop when you touch the cone.

Maybe you all have softer cones! But clearly my one isn't effective, it should be something much more progressive when under load.

diesel97
15-10-2015, 18:50
The bracket fits in behind the pedal in only one position, then you can adjust the screw length on the cone, so mine is about as far back
from the pedal as possible. The problem is that the rubber cone is so hard that when the pedal hits the cone, you can't really push back any further,
so it effectively just feels like you hit a full stop when you touch the cone.

Maybe you all have softer cones! But clearly my one isn't effective, it should be something much more progressive when under load.

You can mount the mod in three different spots and the rubber cone will soften in time also

MLT24
15-10-2015, 20:15
You can mount the mod in three different spots and the rubber cone will soften in time also

Yes I mounted mine on T3PA Pros in lower holes to allow more range. When I first calibrated I got to 60%. I recalibrate b4 I play each time. And now 4 months later I'm getting 80%. It just get better and better and feels just like real brakes. I've gotten way faster because of this brake mod.

Haiden
15-10-2015, 23:23
You can mount the mod in three different spots and the rubber cone will soften in time also

Exactly.


Yes I mounted mine on T3PA Pros in lower holes to allow more range. When I first calibrated I got to 60%. I recalibrate b4 I play each time. And now 4 months later I'm getting 80%. It just get better and better and feels just like real brakes. I've gotten way faster because of this brake mod.

If you used the lower holes on the pedal base (the ones closest to the pedal arm and front of the pedal deck), then that actually provides the least amount of throw. My pedals are fairly new (about three months) and they've never been that hard. Are securing the first forward holes of the bracket to the first furthest set holes on the base? Don't use the rear set of holes on the bracket.

2pfspiff
16-10-2015, 02:18
This is interesting because I got the conical mod but couldn't get on with it. Does anyone else find the rubber cone just way too hard?
The idea of the mod was to give a more realistic resistance feel rather than putting your brake pedal right the way down all the time,
but I just find with the mod, there's no real travel in the pedal which actually feels to me, more unrealistic than without the mod.

I tend to think the cone needs to be a bit softer?

I was having issue's with the conical brake mod when I first got my T3PA pro pedals. After messing around with it a bit I set it up so that the pedal will press in 50% before it hits the rubber cone. Then from there it compresses the cone until it hits 100%. I found this to be the perfect setup for me. I have since noticed better lap times and better breaking into the turns. My pedals also calibrate at a full 100% every time.

Pappa_Stig
16-10-2015, 06:34
Can't you just pull the pedals apart and open up the springs to put more pre-load on them like the old DFGT brake mod?

Paulzx
17-10-2015, 17:17
You can mount the mod in three different spots and the rubber cone will soften in time also

three different spots? when I look behind the brake pedal, there is clearly only one locating hole on the floor you can fit the metal
bracket down on to. The only further adjustment now, is how far you screw the rubber cone back into the metal bracket

diesel97
17-10-2015, 17:29
three different spots? when I look behind the brake pedal, there is clearly only one locating hole on the floor you can fit the metal
bracket down on to. The only further adjustment now, is how far you screw the rubber cone back into the metal bracket

not sure what going on but there are two holes on the mod it self and there are many on the base you only need two screws for it to work

look on the Thrustmaster web site and has instructions that help, and take a look here also 5.08 minute mark



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IN5P42Jj6xY

Paulzx
18-10-2015, 07:27
Those are T3PA pro pedals, mine are just the T3PA pedals so the mod bracket is different, there is only one position for the bracket.
Also in the video somewhere I saw two rubber cones pressing against each other behind the pedal so mine doesn't have that either,
just one conical rubber stop behind the brake pedal, and it's too stiff so it doesn't really do the job effectively