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itzhipno
06-01-2016, 03:51
I'm getting ready to purchase a wheel and I have narrowed my choices down to the t150 and t100 and I just need another opinion, which is the better choice?

Invincible
06-01-2016, 04:13
The t150. It has the same base unit as the t300 which means a far superior ffb compared to the T100.

Mauler_77
06-01-2016, 08:14
Surely if you can afford it the T300 would be the best option? The T150 is meant to be a great entry-level wheel, but the T300 is the recommended one if your budget stretches higher. Plus how can you upgrade the rim to the lovely Alcantara 599 edition if you only have a T150? :p

EDIT: sorry I misread that as T300 or T150. Definitely get the T150 between those two haha
Although your thread title is different to the actual question you asked...

Invincible
06-01-2016, 08:18
I'm thinking about getting a T150 myself with the T3PA pedals. My only grief is, that it has less buttons than my DFGT, which already hasn't enough buttons for me. :(

itzhipno
06-01-2016, 15:04
Surely if you can afford it the T300 would be the best option? The T150 is meant to be a great entry-level wheel, but the T300 is the recommended one if your budget stretches higher. Plus how can you upgrade the rim to the lovely Alcantara 599 edition if you only have a T150? :p

EDIT: sorry I misread that as T300 or T150. Definitely get the T150 between those two haha
Although your thread title is different to the actual question you asked...my bad I was talking about the t300. T100 was a typo

deedub777
06-01-2016, 15:11
I had a T300 and the quality was quite poor, gave up and returned it after two new units were sent to me. I now have a Logitech G29 with cash left over. A friend has a T150 and is happy with it but the pedals are pretty basic so you'd have to shell out more cash for the T3PA. The Logitech pedals on the other hand are really good out of the box. I previously was using a DFGT. The FFB (on the G29) is not as smooth as the T300 but better than the DFGT.

Haiden
06-01-2016, 15:18
The title an OP don't match, but the T100 doesn't have FFB, so I'm assuming your comparing the 150 and 300. If you can afford the T300, and plan to stick with sim racing for while, get that one. The T300 will provide better FFB and also let's you change out the wheels. That being said, I've never actually tried the T150, but based on reviews and the fact that it has a hybrid belt drive system, it's safe to say the T300 will produce the better FFB. Of course, that's not to say you wouldn't be happy with the T150's FFB, especially if you've never had an FFB wheel before.

It's really a shame there's no physical store where you can try the different wheels. FFB is so personal and subjective, and yet, you have to make your decision based reviews, specs, and advice. :( If there had been a store to try them out, the Fanatec Clubsport would have been my first wheel. Instead, I fumbled f'd my way through the chain and started with the 458 Spider. Two weeks later I ordered a TX, loved it and got the T300 for PS4. Then, a year later, broke down and ordered the Clubsport.

notanuva
06-01-2016, 15:20
The T150 go for it for the price a great wheel. I have the T300 and a T150 in my house there's not much difference in ffb feel between the two and to be honest i've been using the T150 more than my T300 i just changed theT150 pedals .

notanuva
06-01-2016, 15:20
The title an OP don't match, but the T100 doesn't have FFB, so I'm assuming your comparing the 150 and 300. If you can afford the T300, and plan to stick with sim racing for while, get that one. The T300 will provide better FFB and also let's you change out the wheels. That being said, I've never actually tried the T150, but based on reviews and the fact that it has a hybrid belt drive system, it's safe to say the T300 will produce the better FFB. Of course, that's not to say you wouldn't be happy with the T150's FFB, especially if you've never had an FFB wheel before.

It's really a shame there's no physical store where you can try the different wheels. FFB is so personal and subjective, and yet, you have to make your decision based reviews, specs, and advice. :( If there had been a store to try them out, the Fanatec Clubsport would have been my first wheel. Instead, I fumbled f'd my way through the chain and started with the 458 Spider. Two weeks later I ordered a TX, loved it and got the T300 for PS4. Then, a year later, broke down and ordered the Clubsport.

The T100 does have ffb i think your thinking of the T80 :)

SlowBloke
06-01-2016, 15:28
I suggest you watch this review which seems to give a good comparison from an afterthoguhts perspective: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJoZyCWUhDs

Ive got T300RS and find it significantly better FFB than G25 and G27 of which Ive had both.

However the pedals of the T300RS are terrible.

Pedals for Logitech G920 & 29 are an upgrade from the G27 ones and they were miles better than T300RS pedals however.

If you have the means T300RS with T3PA or the Pros is a nice solution - although with some more pennies you can get the Fanatec clubsport v3 pedal which is top of the pile of the consumer market stuff currently.

Haiden
06-01-2016, 16:48
The T100 does have ffb i think your thinking of the T80 :)

You're right. I am. Sorry. :(

Invincible
06-01-2016, 17:01
Does anyone know how many buttons the T150/300 has? I'm confused because on the thrustmaster site, I've read something about an advanced mode where you have more buttons... Please enlighten me!

notanuva
06-01-2016, 17:05
Does anyone know how many buttons the T150/300 has? I'm confused because on the thrustmaster site, I've read something about an advanced mode where you have more buttons... Please enlighten me!

T150 Theres 15 buttons on the wheel thats including counting the D pad up down etc as buttons. edit 16 if you include the mode button but thats just for changing dor .

Invincible
06-01-2016, 17:38
Thanks for your answer. It seems on pc there is an advanced mode... Anyone got some more information about this and how it works?

notanuva
06-01-2016, 18:38
Thanks for your answer. It seems on pc there is an advanced mode... Anyone got some more information about this and how it works?

I think the advanced mode is for the T300 only using the f1 rim , The T150 you can't change the wheel and no other buttons to use other than what i said.

jack1984
06-01-2016, 21:12
If you can afford it: the T300 Alcantara Edition is fantastic (http://www.thrustmaster.com/products/t300-ferrari-integral-racing-wheel-alcantara-edition). It comes with a great wheel and the pedals are much better than the stock T300 pedals. I bought it 2 weeks ago for 350 euro's (great price) and I am very happy with it...:)

hkraft300
07-01-2016, 07:26
Why would you be so fussed about the buttons on the wheel base if you have a keyboard?
Maybe on the xb1 its an issue but since patch 2 the ps4 has had support for keyboard + wheel/controller.
I was under the impression the same is available for PC.
Get the better wheel regardless of button count and have yourself a keyboard with it to map extra functions as needed :)

Invincible
07-01-2016, 07:48
Why would you be so fussed about the buttons on the wheel base if you have a keyboard?
Maybe on the xb1 its an issue but since patch 2 the ps4 has had support for keyboard + wheel/controller.
I was under the impression the same is available for PC.
Get the better wheel regardless of button count and have yourself a keyboard with it to map extra functions as needed :)

Because I want to have the main functions on my wheel. Of course I "could" use the keyboard, the thing is, currently the only place for my keyboard is behind the wheel base. So I have to lean forward, search the button, take a hand of the wheel, press the button, lean back. This takes too much time and draws too much attention off the road.

Things I want mapped on the wheel: Light switch, wiper, change view, look back, DRS, Kers, look left / right, request pit, pause, reset, switch motec, switch hud, toggle laptimes into, +/- brake bias. I would also like to have the possibility to toggle ABS/TC/ST from the wheel, which isn't possible atm.

hkraft300
07-01-2016, 07:59
Looks like operation button box for you, Invincible ;)

Invincible
07-01-2016, 08:05
Looks like operation button box for you, Invincible ;)

It certainly does. :rolleyes:
Thing is, as long as I haven't gotten a rig (playing on my desk currently) I have no proper way to fix a button box and I would need a rig where I can also play FPS or which I can use as a workstation without the wheel getting in my way... never ending story, I tell ya.

hkraft300
07-01-2016, 13:14
Couldn't place the keyboard next to the wheel base, within reach on the desk then?
Use your qwerty skills lol
Or if your desk can accommodate, you could do those slidey shallow keyboard draws. Bolt it under the desk...
I'm swinging blind here.
I won't bother with a button box. A Bluetooth keyboard will do me fine. May just a number pad. We shall see.

Invincible
07-01-2016, 13:29
Couldn't place the keyboard next to the wheel base, within reach on the desk then?
Use your qwerty skills lol
Or if your desk can accommodate, you could do those slidey shallow keyboard draws. Bolt it under the desk...
I'm swinging blind here.


Unfortunately there isn't any possible way to place the keyboard within reach... and bolting also isn't an option - my desk is made of glass.
But I got to get rid of it anyway when I get a wheel with stronger FFB. Even my DFGT isn't at full power, because I fear that the rumble might break the glass, which would take down my monitor too.

I think over time, I got to prepare my GF, that there is no way to get around a Obutto R3volution and some other fancy stuff. :p

havocc
07-01-2016, 13:49
my desk is made of glass.

I could never hook my T500 to a glass table without the risk of breaking it because of FFB unless the glass is very thick :rolleyes:

bradleyland
07-01-2016, 14:41
If you can afford it: the T300 Alcantara Edition is fantastic (http://www.thrustmaster.com/products/t300-ferrari-integral-racing-wheel-alcantara-edition). It comes with a great wheel and the pedals are much better than the stock T300 pedals. I bought it 2 weeks ago for 350 euro's (great price) and I am very happy with it...:)

This!

The problem with the T150 (and the base T300RS, really) is the pedals. If you want to upgrade the pedals, that's another $99, which puts the price of a T150 + T3PA pedals at $400. The T300 Ferrari Integral is $470 and has the following advantages:

Comes with T3PA pedals, including conical brake mod (huge improvement).
Larger diameter wheel (30 cm).
Alcantara wrapped wheel, which feels fantastic in your hands.
Wheel clamp uses metal screw hardware instead of plastic (the clamp itself is plastic, which won't tear up your glass table).
The 30cm, Alcantara-wrapped wheel is really what sold me on this package. I've never had the benefit of owning something as nice as a Fanatec setup, but that's ultimately where I'd like to end up. The larger wheel along with the Alcantara (which you'll find in a lot of exotics) really makes the wheel feel special in your hands, which gets me part of the way there. IMO, it's well worth saving up for another month or two.

havocc
07-01-2016, 15:35
This!

The problem with the T150 (and the base T300RS, really) is the pedals. If you want to upgrade the pedals, that's another $99, which puts the price of a T150 + T3PA pedals at $400. The T300 Ferrari Integral is $470 and has the following advantages:

Comes with T3PA pedals, including conical brake mod (huge improvement).
Larger diameter wheel (30 cm).
Alcantara wrapped wheel, which feels fantastic in your hands.
Wheel clamp uses metal screw hardware instead of plastic (the clamp itself is plastic, which won't tear up your glass table).
The 30cm, Alcantara-wrapped wheel is really what sold me on this package. I've never had the benefit of owning something as nice as a Fanatec setup, but that's ultimately where I'd like to end up. The larger wheel along with the Alcantara (which you'll find in a lot of exotics) really makes the wheel feel special in your hands, which gets me part of the way there. IMO, it's well worth saving up for another month or two.

For 400€ i got the T500 with T3pa-Pro

maximatorstengel
07-01-2016, 15:50
Hi,

the T150 is about 160€ plus 90€ for T3PA. The T300 is 300€ and the T500 is about 400€. So in my opinion the T150 plus T3PA for about 250€ is the best value. If you want to go for it buy the T500 for 400€. I bought the T150.

Greetings,

Max

ports
07-01-2016, 16:38
I paid £99 from amazon for the T150 for a Christmas present for a family member and then he paid £75 for a new set of T3PA's add that up comes to £174 can't complain there is some decent deals out there.

k.merse
14-01-2016, 17:50
The only downside of a T300RS is the pedal set which is frankly quite poor. But a T3PA or T3PA Pro set solves that issue and then the T300RS is simply the best wheel out there IMO.

Lewis Puppy
14-01-2016, 22:39
Does the Fanatec CSR Elite pedals work well with the T300 with Fanatec adapter?

McKiernan
14-01-2016, 23:58
Does the Fanatec CSR Elite pedals work well with the T300 with Fanatec adapter?

No but you can buy a Basherboards CPX adapter. I used to use this when I had the T300 & it worked perfectly.
http://www.basherboards.com/CPX

havocc
15-01-2016, 00:13
Imo pedals are nearly more important than wheel, having a solid pedal set where you can push the brake as hard as you would do in a real car is a great advantage, i just installed Rubber spring brake mod on t3pa pro and it got a lot better coz before it happened me to brake too hard when not needed.

Salty Dog
26-02-2016, 12:36
Was going to grab a T80 but knew i had to stretch the funds to a T150, wish i could have afforded more but after reading this i think the t150 will be fine.

Things are so expensive here and the Aussie dollar is so low, the absolute cheapest i could have got this online was low $300s, then if there was something wrong id have to ship a huge parcel back, so i found the cheapest deal from a bricks and mortar in Aus which was 349 at the gamesmen and had my local JBHIFI price match it so if theres any dramas i can just take it back locally.

Its late at night here so i'll set up tomoz but pretty excited.

First impressions is the rim looks pretty average, its hollow plastic, the blue rubber sides feel ok but the top is pretty poor, does anybody know of anything to cover it with?

I figured that because i have a PS4 and im not the most technical person that this wheel would be a very safe option, as in it will play all ps4 race games now and in the future, its supported and recognised by the ps4, thustmaster are the only wheels that are apparently, so i took the safe option with this one, the reviews havnt been terrible either, seems like for an entry level wheel it has a few things going for it but im not expecting the world here at all.

Its my first wheel so really looking forward to having a crack, the steering in F1 2015 is going to be a lot easier i suspect.

Anybody else got a t150 recently have any thoughts on it?

cheers lads

Salty Dog
26-02-2016, 12:38
On another note my GF thought that the name Thrustmaster on the wheel is hilarious and is now calling me Mr thrustmaster,:)

bradleyland
26-02-2016, 12:51
Was going to grab a T80 but knew i had to stretch the funds to a T150, wish i could have afforded more but after reading this i think the t150 will be fine.

Things are so expensive here and the Aussie dollar is so low, the absolute cheapest i could have got this online was low $300s, then if there was something wrong id have to ship a huge parcel back, so i found the cheapest deal from a bricks and mortar in Aus which was 349 at the gamesmen and had my local JBHIFI price match it so if theres any dramas i can just take it back locally.

Its late at night here so i'll set up tomoz but pretty excited.

First impressions is the rim looks pretty average, its hollow plastic, the blue rubber sides feel ok but the top is pretty poor, does anybody know of anything to cover it with?

I figured that because i have a PS4 and im not the most technical person that this wheel would be a very safe option, as in it will play all ps4 race games now and in the future, its supported and recognised by the ps4, thustmaster are the only wheels that are apparently, so i took the safe option with this one, the reviews havnt been terrible either, seems like for an entry level wheel it has a few things going for it but im not expecting the world here at all.

Its my first wheel so really looking forward to having a crack, the steering in F1 2015 is going to be a lot easier i suspect.

Anybody else got a t150 recently have any thoughts on it?

cheers lads

That's awesome! You're really going to love having a FFB wheel. Super excited for you. I've gotten so much enjoyment out of this game. I love to hear stories of people who are willing to stretch their budget to get better equipment. Trust me, you won't regret it. Happy racing! :)

Jussi Viljami Karjalainen
26-02-2016, 12:56
On another note my GF thought that the name Thrustmaster on the wheel is hilarious and is now calling me Mr thrustmaster,:)That joke was old even in the early 90s. =)

havocc
26-02-2016, 12:58
On another note my GF thought that the name Thrustmaster on the wheel is hilarious and is now calling me Mr thrustmaster,:)

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31xlt2Jw7hL.jpg

Salty Dog
26-02-2016, 13:52
That's awesome! You're really going to love having a FFB wheel. Super excited for you. I've gotten so much enjoyment out of this game. I love to hear stories of people who are willing to stretch their budget to get better equipment. Trust me, you won't regret it. Happy racing! :)

Cheers and thanks mate, im pretty excited too, im thinking its gotta make things a bit more fun, i enjoy a PS4 controller a lot but am looking forward to having things a little more realistic and have even more fun than before if thats possible ha, looks like a decent point to start and if i really enjoy it over the next year i'll think about upgrading, man i want that F1 wheel attachment for T500, all in good time.

cheers

Reiche
26-02-2016, 15:37
The t150. It has the same base unit as the t300 which means a far superior ffb compared to the T100.

Althought the post is long ago, I just stumpled upon it.

I fairly doubt it is the same wheelbase, I think it's more likely just the same housing. Checking their site you can see the T150 wheelbase has 12-bit resolution whereas the T300 has 16-bit.

Jussi Viljami Karjalainen
26-02-2016, 16:01
Definitely isn't the same wheelbase, just similar/same housing.

bradleyland
26-02-2016, 16:19
Also, T150 is a hybrid gear/belt system where the T300 is belt only.

maxx69
26-02-2016, 17:42
I'm thinking about getting a T150 myself with the T3PA pedals. My only grief is, that it has less buttons than my DFGT, which already hasn't enough buttons for me. :(

Use a Bluetooth keyboard as well and map buttons to that , I use a t300 on a PS4 , makes adjusting things on the fly much easier.
Map important buttons to the wheel and everything else to the keyboard.....sweet as a nut :cool:

maxx69
26-02-2016, 17:46
My advice is ...
If you enjoy racing games , spend as much as you can afford.
I have a T300 and the T3PA pedals, I'm as happy as a pig wallowing in its own excrement.

hkraft300
27-02-2016, 00:35
On another note my GF thought that the name Thrustmaster on the wheel is hilarious and is now calling me Mr thrustmaster,:)

This needs a post of the month nomination ;)

Edit: keep your gf!

Salty Dog
27-02-2016, 06:31
Guys atm im really struggling with this wheel, im really getting frustrated.
Ive followed all the tips in these threads about set ups, im in 900 degrees and the wheel feels terrible, im struggling to even control the car, it feels nothing remotely like a car, the feedback is beyond terrible, ive got nothing to go on as far as wheel experience goes but i was expecting so much more.

On 900 you have to turn the wheel way to much to turn the car, it feels totally unatural, ive gotta turn the w=heel twice just to get round a corner, so i had to go to 500 i think it is which is much better but still terrible.

This thing feels like a kids toy for me atm, i'll keep working on the settings, im certain im doing something wrong, the wheel couldnt be this bad?

And the feel of the teeth when you turn the wheel is just almost a deal breaker, its terrible.

I can still return this, thank god i bought local, i think it will be going back

I spent 350 au on this, honestly it feels, looks and performs like a fisher price toy.

Salty Dog
27-02-2016, 06:48
The bit im really struggling on is the second step of the calibration wheel turning, ive watch 2 vids with guys saying different things, do you just turn your wheel a quarter turn and press x?
What position of the wheel do you have it in when you do this?
How do you know if youve done it right?
If i didnt have to take this back to get my money back it would have been smashed with a sledge hammer a few hours ago.

Fernandito
27-02-2016, 08:19
Guys atm im really struggling with this wheel, im really getting frustrated.
Ive followed all the tips in these threads about set ups, im in 900 degrees and the wheel feels terrible, im struggling to even control the car, it feels nothing remotely like a car, the feedback is beyond terrible, ive got nothing to go on as far as wheel experience goes but i was expecting so much more.

On 900 you have to turn the wheel way to much to turn the car, it feels totally unatural, ive gotta turn the w=heel twice just to get round a corner, so i had to go to 500 i think it is which is much better but still terrible.

This thing feels like a kids toy for me atm, i'll keep working on the settings, im certain im doing something wrong, the wheel couldnt be this bad?

And the feel of the teeth when you turn the wheel is just almost a deal breaker, its terrible.

I can still return this, thank god i bought local, i think it will be going back

I spent 350 au on this, honestly it feels, looks and performs like a fisher price toy.Project cars with a wheel ain't really that good, with the t300 at least. You will be better off playing this game with a pad, trust me.

I have a t300 gte too and always met this problem (in this game only) that I had to turn the wheel an awful lot in order to go through turns as long as I set the wheel to 900º.

The point of setting the wheel to 900ºis that you will enjoy every car real rotation angle without the need of adjusting it for each. However, you will face the problem you're talking about.

My advice is that as long as you insist on using 900º, then you should set the options "smooth wheel position" to "zero"; "dead zone removal" to 0'4, and increase a bit the steering linearity from 50 (this is 1:1) to 60 or 65. The "steering ratio" option that is inside the car setup menu won't make a difference in making the wheel more responsive by the way

Also, do not listen to the guys that tell you to turn off damper and spring effects on the thrustmaster control panel (they just don't know what they're talking about). If you do such thing then you will lose the soft lock, which is important when using the awful 900ª rotation option.

Go for something like 360º in project cars for all cars. You'll at least enjoy the game with the wheel instead of struggling with it, and become miles faster than with 900º.

Salty Dog
27-02-2016, 08:30
Project cars with a wheel ain't really that good, with the t300 at least. You will be better off playing this game with a pad, trust me.

I have a t300 gte too and always met this problem (in this game only) that I had to turn the wheel an awful lot in order to go through turns as long as I set the wheel to 900º.

The point of setting the wheel to 900ºis that you will enjoy every car real rotation angle without the need of adjusting it for each. However, you will face the problem you're talking about.

My advice is that as long as you insist on using 900º, then you should set the options "smooth wheel position" to "zero"; "dead zone removal" to 0'4, and increase a bit the steering linearity from 50 (this is 1:1) to 60 or 65. The "steering ratio" option that is inside the car setup menu won't make a difference in making the wheel more responsive by the way

Also, do not listen to the guys that tell you to turn off damper and spring effects on the thrustmaster control panel (they just don't know what they're talking about). If you do such thing then you will lose the soft lock, which is important when using the awful 900ª rotation option.

Go for something like 360º in project cars for all cars. You'll at least enjoy the game with the wheel instead of struggling with it, and become miles faster than with 900º.

Thankyou mate for the advice, its completely ridiculous at 900, ive got no idea how anybody is using it, im not insisting on it being in 900 at all, its unplayable and completely unrealistic, ill have a crack on 360.

Its so confusing when its your first wheel, you have nothing to compare it too, i dont know if i should take it back, maybe a wheel is not for me because atm there is not one thing about this that i enjoy more or works better than a pad.
Or is it just me and the settings?

I think ive just realised that unless i want to spend 2-3 times as much theres not a lot of point having a wheel.

Also just the whole make and build that this has id be very very wary now of buying a t300 even though it has a different motor, i didnt really have expectations apart from thinking the game would be more fun and steering would be easier, wrong on both counts for me it seems.

Itothans
27-02-2016, 09:28
Imo depending on how keen you are to play a sim you can never spend too much on something that is your time off/stress release. I have gone through 2 other wheels (DFGT, G27) until I got the T300 GTE with the 599XX rim and a set of ClubSport 3 pedals and I haven't regretted spending the money at all.

Gamer82678
27-02-2016, 09:44
All I can say is be patient !
Project Cars is not plug and play with T300 RS.
Take your time and read through this informative forum here.
If your T300 RS is functioning properly you will find force feedback effects sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat ! ! ! ! ! ! ! :cool:

maxx69
27-02-2016, 10:18
Project cars with a wheel ain't really that good, with the t300 at least. You will be better off playing this game with a pad, trust me.

I have a t300 gte too and always met this problem (in this game only) that I had to turn the wheel an awful lot in order to go through turns as long as I set the wheel to 900º.

The point of setting the wheel to 900ºis that you will enjoy every car real rotation angle without the need of adjusting it for each. However, you will face the problem you're talking about.

My advice is that as long as you insist on using 900º, then you should set the options "smooth wheel position" to "zero"; "dead zone removal" to 0'4, and increase a bit the steering linearity from 50 (this is 1:1) to 60 or 65. The "steering ratio" option that is inside the car setup menu won't make a difference in making the wheel more responsive by the way

Also, do not listen to the guys that tell you to turn off damper and spring effects on the thrustmaster control panel (they just don't know what they're talking about). If you do such thing then you will lose the soft lock, which is important when using the awful 900ª rotation option.

Go for something like 360º in project cars for all cars. You'll at least enjoy the game with the wheel instead of struggling with it, and become miles faster than with 900º.

Couldn't disagree more . I use a t300rs and have no problem with realism . It's certainly more realistic than driving with a controller.
I wonder whether you guys have ever set the wheel up, properly, from the start .
It doesn't make you faster but let's face it , you bought a sim race game to get as close to reality without actually sitting in a car .
It's all opinions and in my opinion , the T300 set up properly is the closest thing you'll get to driving a real car without actually driving one .
It takes time to get the settings right and get used to driving on a sim with a wheel. But when you get it , it's excellent.
No disrespect to the above comment , but read the reviews on Amazon, here and on YouTube .
In "my opinion" you do the game and yourself an injustice using a pad .
Don't take one person's views as correct , research :)

Fernandito
27-02-2016, 10:26
Its so confusing when its your first wheel, you have nothing to compare it too, i dont know if i should take it back, maybe a wheel is not for me because atm there is not one thing about this that i enjoy more or works better than a pad.
Or is it just me and the settings?

I think ive just realised that unless i want to spend 2-3 times as much theres not a lot of point having a wheel.I feel you man. I'm on the same boat since i got my wheel on October. I though It would make me a lot faster and that things would be a whole lot easier, but I was very much mistaken as It turned out to be right the opposite thing when compared to a pad, at least in project cars. This doesn't happen to me in assetto corsa for instance.

Don't return your wheel anyway as there exist many other games that are truly made for wheelers such as assetto corsa, Iracing, rfactor etc. In this games you'll find yourself being way faster with a wheel (well, in Iracing you can only use a wheel hehe, but in assetto corse for instance you'll fare better with the wheel).

In my opinion you will find a happy medium in using 540º. Give it a go, even in project cars..; but if you do this (or 360º), then return the steering linearity option to its default 1:1 value of "50".

edit:


Couldn't disagree more . I use a t300rs and have no problem with realism . It's certainly more realistic than driving with a controller.
I wonder whether you guys have ever set the wheel up, properly, from the start .
It doesn't make you faster but let's face it , you bought a sim race game to get as close to reality without actually sitting in a car .
It's all opinions and in my opinion , the T300 set up properly is the closest thing you'll get to driving a real car without actually driving one .
It takes time to get the settings right and get used to driving on a sim with a wheel. But when you get it , it's excellent.
No disrespect to the above comment , but read the reviews on Amazon, here and on YouTube .
In "my opinion" you do the game and yourself an injustice using a pad .
Don't take one person's views as correct , research :)yah you must mean your opinion is more valid than mine right

And I wasn't talking about realism when saying pad is better (obviously, don't you think?), but of the effectiveness of being faster with it in project cars. Don't misplace my words

Salty Dog
27-02-2016, 10:42
I feel you man. I'm on the same boat since i got my wheel on October. I though It would make me a lot faster and that things would be a whole lot easier, but I was very much mistaken as It turned out to be right the opposite thing when compared to a pad, at least in project cars. This doesn't happen to me in assetto corsa for instance.

Don't return your wheel anyway as there exist many other games that are truly made for wheelers such as assetto corsa, Iracing, rfactor etc. In this games you'll find yourself being way faster with a wheel (well, in Iracing you can only use a wheel hehe, but in assetto corse for instance you'll fare better with the wheel).

In my opinion you will find a happy medium in using 540º. Give it a go, even in project cars..; but if you do this (or 360º), then return the steering linearity option to its default 1:1 value of "50".

edit:

yah you must mean your opinion is more valid than mine right

And I wasn't talking about realism when saying pad is better (obviously, don't you think?), but of the effectiveness of being faster with it in project cars. Don't misplace my words

Thanks again mate, ive just played F1 2015 with it and the wheel seems to be working ok, none of the issues that PC has with it, im getting around the track just fine and it feels a lot more emersive than the game pad, im nowhere near as fast yet but it seems to be working all fine so thats taken my frustration down, and my bro just came around and was blown away with it, he loved it, not that he knows anything about wheels, he just loved playing it, so that boyed my mood a bit, i was so bloody frustrated before lol.

In F1 2015 there is a 360 degree preset with everything set 1;1, it feels so much better, i realise F1 has a lot smaller degree of turn than most race cars but this wheel seems to work a hell of a lot better.

I wont return it, id like to get my brother into SIM, so ive decided seeings he loved it i'll give it to my lil godson Sonny and him when and if i upgrade, so i'll stick at it after playing F1.

cheers and thanks for your advice mate.

Salty Dog
27-02-2016, 10:51
All I can say is be patient !
Project Cars is not plug and play with T300 RS.
Take your time and read through this informative forum here.
If your T300 RS is functioning properly you will find force feedback effects sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat ! ! ! ! ! ! ! :cool:

Cheers mate, i realised it wasnt going to be pick up and play, over the last month ive been reading all the t150 articles i could find, i bookmarked all the good threads here with all of the settings, so i had an idea of where i was starting and what i wanted to do, but after trying 10 different full settings the cars were behaving like they were on acid, then i play F1 2015 and it works a charm, i realise F1 is a very basic game but at least i know its not the wheel, PC is a real tough game to set this wheel up on and obviously a poor choice for a game to set this up with.

Im not giving up, I'll come back to the settings 100 times if needed to get it sorted, if you guys say this wheel can work really well with PC i take your word for it, but its not looking good atm lol

Cheers n thanks

Jussi Viljami Karjalainen
27-02-2016, 11:24
You clearly have a problem somewhere, I use my T500 at 1080 degrees and generally don't need more than 45-90 degrees to get around a corner, even tight corners like Tosa corner @ Imola doesn't require much more than 90 degrees. Are you sure you've calibrated the wheel properly in the in-game settings?

EDIT: Also worthy of pointing out is that turning more doesn't always mean the car will turn any harder. Once you pass the limit of maximum lateral grip from the tyres turning the wheel more will just make the car understeer even more because the tyres are past their optimum slip angle. In short, understeer mostly can not be cured by turning more, it'll just make it worse.

Fernandito
27-02-2016, 12:10
Thanks again mate, ive just played F1 2015 with it and the wheel seems to be working ok, none of the issues that PC has with it, im getting around the track just fine and it feels a lot more emersive than the game pad, im nowhere near as fast yet but it seems to be working all fine so thats taken my frustration down, and my bro just came around and was blown away with it, he loved it, not that he knows anything about wheels, he just loved playing it, so that boyed my mood a bit, i was so bloody frustrated before lol.

In F1 2015 there is a 360 degree preset with everything set 1;1, it feels so much better, i realise F1 has a lot smaller degree of turn than most race cars but this wheel seems to work a hell of a lot better.

I wont return it, id like to get my brother into SIM, so ive decided seeings he loved it i'll give it to my lil godson Sonny and him when and if i upgrade, so i'll stick at it after playing F1.

cheers and thanks for your advice mate.actually i think I know the reason for project cars to be better played with the pad, but I only could come to the conclusion soon after getting a wheel for myself. The following only applies if you are sharp with the directional sticks, which is critical in project cars, and so am I.

First off, to me the underlying "issue" (issue if you use a wheel) with project cars lies in the obvious truth that underneath everything is no other thing that the need for speed shift engine, as we could not have it any other way. Has it been heavily modified?. Indeed, but the core still remains. It still feels like shift somehow, specially when you lose control on your car, and the way car setups work; I mean each car has just one optimal setup as long as you don't pretend to be spinning the entire track around. This mandatory setting is no other than the lowest tyre pressure you can apply without seeing your rear tyres red in the thrid lap. This also means tyre pressure sliders almost to the entire left end since the last patches (with the exception of FA), which is laughbale at the very least. (i think they have tried to fix this legendary problem reporting back to the shift series that way, and that's why they now allow us to run such low ridiculous pressures without facing consequence)

That said, I have come to the conclusion that I have a way superior control over the throttle/brake game with the sticks than with the pedals in project cars (nfs shift all over again). And this, combined with nice and sharp use of the sticks (as long as you use control type 2) is what makes me faster with the pad.

Salty Dog
27-02-2016, 12:14
You clearly have a problem somewhere, I use my T500 at 1080 degrees and generally don't need more than 45-90 degrees to get around a corner, even tight corners like Tosa corner @ Imola doesn't require much more than 90 degrees. Are you sure you've calibrated the wheel properly in the in-game settings?

EDIT: Also worthy of pointing out is that turning more doesn't always mean the car will turn any harder. Once you pass the limit of maximum lateral grip from the tyres turning the wheel more will just make the car understeer even more because the tyres are past their optimum slip angle. In short, understeer mostly can not be cured by turning more, it'll just make it worse.

Cheers mate, yes i can tell the difference between understeering and turning lol, the car takes more than 360 just to take a small right hand turn, am i sure ive calibrated it right? No is the answer.

The two steps where i have the picture of the wheel on the screen to calibrate.

First step i turn all the way one way and press x, easy
Next step i find the instructions very confusing.

Do i let the wheel return to its natural spot and then turn it 1/4 turn/90 degree and then press x ?

Im very confused by this second stage, ive watched two vids, both showed different things and one didnt show the guy turning the wheel, this must be the part im doing wrong.

thanks

Salty Dog
27-02-2016, 12:31
actually i think I know the reason for project cars to be better played with the pad, but I only could come to the conclusion soon after getting a wheel for myself. The following only applies if you are sharp with the directional sticks, which is critical in project cars, and so am I.

First off, to me the underlying "issue" (issue if you use a wheel) with project cars lies in the obvious truth that underneath everything is no other thing that the need for speed shift engine, as we could not have it any other way. Has it been heavily modified?. Indeed, but the core still remains. It still feels like shift somehow, specially when you lose control on your car, and the way car setups work; I mean each car has just one optimal setup as long as you don't pretend to be spinning the entire track around. This mandatory setting is no other than the lowest tyre pressure you can apply without seeing your rear tyres red in the thrid lap. This also means tyre pressure sliders almost to the entire left end since the last patches (with the exception of FA), which is laughbale at the very least. (i think they have tried to fix this legendary problem reporting back to the shift series that way, and that's why they now allow us to run such low ridiculous pressures without facing consequence)

That said, I have come to the conclusion that I have a way superior control over the throttle/brake game with the sticks than with the pedals in project cars (nfs shift all over again). And this, combined with nice and sharp use of the sticks (as long as you use control type 2) is what makes me faster with the pad.

Mate your spot on the money, first thing in notice is that ive lost a lot of the real fast quick response of the dual shock, not to metion it takes a lot longer to turn a wheel and use pedals compared to your fingers, its so much faster on a pad.

I reduced everything to 0 on F1 2011, the devs recommend you start there as a base point, its pure 1;1, im not sure how to explain the difference but if i had to id say the pad is crisp and sharp and the wheel is spongy and no where near as responsive.

I like you are probably a very fast flicker with a pad, ill make the call now, if i practiced with this every day for a year with this wheel id still whip that time with a pad, but time will tell.

I will say its a different feeling in a good way in front of the screen with a wheel, alot more immersive.

cheers

Jussi Viljami Karjalainen
27-02-2016, 12:38
Cheers mate, yes i can tell the difference between understeering and turning lol, the car takes more than 360 just to take a small right hand turn, am i sure ive calibrated it right? No is the answer.

The two steps where i have the picture of the wheel on the screen to calibrate.

First step i turn all the way one way and press x, easy
Next step i find the instructions very confusing.

Do i let the wheel return to its natural spot and then turn it 1/4 turn/90 degree and then press x ?

Im very confused by this second stage, ive watched two vids, both showed different things and one didnt show the guy turning the wheel, this must be the part im doing wrong.

thanksYou go back to center, then turn 90 degrees (or indeed one quarter) and press X. The number it shows once you get to 90 degrees should be very close to whatever your maximum wheel rotation is set to in the drivers.

maxx69
27-02-2016, 12:53
I feel you man. I'm on the same boat since i got my wheel on October. I though It would make me a lot faster and that things would be a whole lot easier, but I was very much mistaken as It turned out to be right the opposite thing when compared to a pad, at least in project cars. This doesn't happen to me in assetto corsa for instance.

Don't return your wheel anyway as there exist many other games that are truly made for wheelers such as assetto corsa, Iracing, rfactor etc. In this games you'll find yourself being way faster with a wheel (well, in Iracing you can only use a wheel hehe, but in assetto corse for instance you'll fare better with the wheel).

In my opinion you will find a happy medium in using 540º. Give it a go, even in project cars..; but if you do this (or 360º), then return the steering linearity option to its default 1:1 value of "50".

edit:

yah you must mean your opinion is more valid than mine right

And I wasn't talking about realism when saying pad is better (obviously, don't you think?), but of the effectiveness of being faster with it in project cars. Don't misplace my words

I , as well as you my friend,I have a right to an opinion and to air my opinion.
As this differs from yours , I don't see any reason for you to take offense.
If you read my post properly , you would have realised that is what I was saying .
You posted your opinion and I posted mine , I actually stated that I meant no disrespect to your opinion.
At no point have I said my opinion is any more relevant than yours and even said not to listen to any one comment but to do some research.

I'm not interested in having a silly pointless argumentative conversation with you .
If anyone thinks their opinion is superior to anyone else's it would seem that person is you .
Use a controller-use a wheel ....I don't care what you do

Salty Dog
27-02-2016, 14:01
You go back to center, then turn 90 degrees (or indeed one quarter) and press X. The number it shows once you get to 90 degrees should be very close to whatever your maximum wheel rotation is set to in the drivers.

Thanks Jussi, i appreciate that, i did the 90 degree turn but theres a good chance ive stuffed up somehow, after a good sleep i'll go through all the motions tomorrow, im sure i'll sort it out.

Seeings i live in a unit ive just ordered a GT Omega fold up stand, ive already realised i need to get all the right angles for me to enjoy the wheel and get the most out of it, i totally didnt think id need one and thought i could wing it, but ive just realised i really do need one cause ive got nothing to use the right height and angles, it should be a lot better to use with that and i got a good price so happy days.

Man this sim racing and PS4 just keep costing me more and more and im only getting started lol

Cheers and thanks for your help

bradleyland
27-02-2016, 14:25
Salty, try checking your car setups. When I played with a pad, I used to turn the steering ratio way up to keep the cars controllable. I'm on PS4, so I don't have a TM control panel, but in pCARS, I run my wheel at 900° and tune the steering ratio in each car. With a pad, I was running 19:1 or higher. With the wheel, I often run 11.4:1 or lower.

I also tend to disagree with Fernandito. The #1 setting that makes ProjectCARS feel unnatural to me is the center spring. Again, I only have PS4, so I don't use the TM Control Panel, but in ProjectCARS main menu, Options & Help, Control Scheme, Calibrate Force Feedback, I have:

Low Speed Spring Coefficient 0.75
Low Speed Spring Saturation 0.35

This dramatically reduces the amount of "auto centering". Keep in mind that this "low speed spring" is not a tire force. It's an artificial force generated by the game to center the steering wheel. I don't know about you, but I've never driven a car that snatches the wheel back to center when driving 5 MPH. There's a gentle centering force as the wheels roll. That's how I tune my FFB to feel.

Personally, I tuned my FFB based on the M3 GT4 and my personal M3 (E92) that I drive all the time. I don't know if that is 100% the best approach, but it got me really close to what I consider a "real" feel in the game, and I enjoy it. I do think it's probably on the light side, but I don't mind. Most cars I've driven have very light steering. It might be the case that some race cars have ridiculously heavy steering, but I've never experienced them, so I don't feel like I'm missing anything.

The final thing I'd say is this: If the gear mesh thing is bothering you, you might want to consider returning the wheel and saving up for a T300. I come from a gear driven wheel background (for many years), and I absolutely love the belt drive in the T300. To me, it feels much more like a real car. I can't stand the rough feel of a gear drive wheel.

Shinzah
29-02-2016, 04:27
Well, I just bought a T150.

The T300 was far out of reach.

Fanatec stopped selling my favourite wheel and only sells CSW things I can't afford.


I hope it won't be a bad wheel.

Edit: I Bought it from a UK seller, so anyone who travels alot might have some advice if it happens to be UK plug would appreciate

Salty Dog
29-02-2016, 07:17
Salty, try checking your car setups. When I played with a pad, I used to turn the steering ratio way up to keep the cars controllable. I'm on PS4, so I don't have a TM control panel, but in pCARS, I run my wheel at 900° and tune the steering ratio in each car. With a pad, I was running 19:1 or higher. With the wheel, I often run 11.4:1 or lower.

I also tend to disagree with Fernandito. The #1 setting that makes ProjectCARS feel unnatural to me is the center spring. Again, I only have PS4, so I don't use the TM Control Panel, but in ProjectCARS main menu, Options & Help, Control Scheme, Calibrate Force Feedback, I have:

Low Speed Spring Coefficient 0.75
Low Speed Spring Saturation 0.35

This dramatically reduces the amount of "auto centering". Keep in mind that this "low speed spring" is not a tire force. It's an artificial force generated by the game to center the steering wheel. I don't know about you, but I've never driven a car that snatches the wheel back to center when driving 5 MPH. There's a gentle centering force as the wheels roll. That's how I tune my FFB to feel.

Personally, I tuned my FFB based on the M3 GT4 and my personal M3 (E92) that I drive all the time. I don't know if that is 100% the best approach, but it got me really close to what I consider a "real" feel in the game, and I enjoy it. I do think it's probably on the light side, but I don't mind. Most cars I've driven have very light steering. It might be the case that some race cars have ridiculously heavy steering, but I've never experienced them, so I don't feel like I'm missing anything.

The final thing I'd say is this: If the gear mesh thing is bothering you, you might want to consider returning the wheel and saving up for a T300. I come from a gear driven wheel background (for many years), and I absolutely love the belt drive in the T300. To me, it feels much more like a real car. I can't stand the rough feel of a gear drive wheel.

Thanks Brad, appreciate the advice mate, im just waiting on my gt art/omega stand to arrive to get back into it, should have been today.

havocc
29-02-2016, 07:47
Edit: I Bought it from a UK seller, so anyone who travels alot might have some advice if it happens to be UK plug would appreciate

The transformer should work with any voltage (check the label anyway) so you just need an adaptator for the plug

BreadedVirus
04-03-2016, 01:33
So the best calibration for the T150 is 360 or 900?

Jussi Viljami Karjalainen
04-03-2016, 01:58
So the best calibration for the T150 is 360 or 900?Best calibration is max rotation.

konnos
04-03-2016, 08:13
If you can afford it: the T300 Alcantara Edition is fantastic (http://www.thrustmaster.com/products/t300-ferrari-integral-racing-wheel-alcantara-edition). It comes with a great wheel and the pedals are much better than the stock T300 pedals. I bought it 2 weeks ago for 350 euro's (great price) and I am very happy with it...:)

Wow that price? Can you pm me where from please?

dr1980
05-03-2016, 16:26
I just got my T150 yesterday aling with the TH8A shifter. I have replacement pedals on the way too (T3PA), they should be here Monday. I was debating between the T150 and T300RS, but with all i had read about reliability i wasn't reading to pull the trigger on the more expensive T300. Plus everything else i had bought was not cheap!!

So far i'm happy with the wheel, handles well, ffb is good. I'm upgrading from a 10 year old driving force pro and this wheel feels great in comparison. My only gripe is that the plastic parts of the wheel are a little bit slippery, i'll probably look at adding something for enhanced grip (or just try to drive properly with hands at 9 and 3! :) )

As an aside, the TH8A is absolutely amazing.

Shinzah
09-03-2016, 16:21
Shin's adventures in T150 Land

So, after buying from the UK because the sole American seller was charging nearly a third more and double the shipping, I've run into the (slightly expected with my luck really) problem.

This is what the T150 Manual says, verbatim:

European versions only
Important Note: The European version of the T150 is equipped with an internal power supply. Located directly inside the racing wheel's base.

CAUTION: THE EUROPEAN VERSION MUST EXCLUSIVELY BE SUPPLIED WITH 220V
Power Supply: 220~240V 50Hz 0.8a


I'm going to assume I don't want to mess around with just a plug adapter and go with a step-up/step-down one instead.
Shin's gonna need suggestions. Or perhaps someone has a step-up/step-down converter they can give to a Shin in need :|

poirqc
09-03-2016, 17:13
Shin's adventures in T150 Land

So, after buying from the UK because the sole American seller was charging nearly a third more and double the shipping, I've run into the (slightly expected with my luck really) problem.

This is what the T150 Manual says, verbatim:

European versions only
Important Note: The European version of the T150 is equipped with an internal power supply. Located directly inside the racing wheel's base.

CAUTION: THE EUROPEAN VERSION MUST EXCLUSIVELY BE SUPPLIED WITH 220V
Power Supply: 220~240V 50Hz 0.8a


I'm going to assume I don't want to mess around with just a plug adapter and go with a step-up/step-down one instead.
Shin's gonna need suggestions. Or perhaps someone has a step-up/step-down converter they can give to a Shin in need :|

You may have eaten you rebate right there. The wheel's PS expect to get fed with and input of 220~240V @ 50Hz. Since the wall's socket output is between 100 to 127V @ 60Hz in canada, you'll need something to convert that output (http://www.ebay.com/bhp/50-60-hz-converter) to something the wheel's works to.

Good luck.

Shinzah
09-03-2016, 17:41
You may have eaten you rebate right there. The wheel's PS expect to get fed with and input of 220~240V @ 50Hz. Since the wall's socket output is between 100 to 127V @ 60Hz in canada, you'll need something to convert that output (http://www.ebay.com/bhp/50-60-hz-converter) to something the wheel's works to.

Good luck.

I really don't think so negatively. It's my fault I was ill-prepared to purchase foreign electrical devices, and in anycase a step-up/step-down converter would be useful in a variety of situations.

hkraft300
11-03-2016, 04:08
Get the converter. Your local electrical store should have some.
Or build your own: YouTube can teach everything lol
Then you can buy more stuff from overseas for cheap :)
Glass half full, friend!

Shinzah
11-03-2016, 05:42
Get the converter. Your local electrical store should have some.
Or build your own: YouTube can teach everything lol
Then you can buy more stuff from overseas for cheap :)
Glass half full, friend!

I have gone ahead and purchased a 500watt transformer. As I believe the power supply in the wheel should be able to handle a 60hz signal without a frequency converter, which are far too expensive for my means.

It should be here hopefully early next week. Then we shall see.

Shinzah
14-03-2016, 14:08
Shin's T150 Adventure Continues

Good news everyone, I've received confirmation from Thrustmaster. The transformer I've got should be plenty good enough to operate the wheel regardless of frequency. Just waiting for it to come now.
Will update once everything is hooked up and tested.

Jussi Viljami Karjalainen
14-03-2016, 18:04
"After the smoke clears we'll inspect the connections."

Hopefully it'll all work out. =)

Dakpilot
14-03-2016, 18:39
Nothing electrical works properly, until you let the smoke out :cool:

Cheers Dakpilot

Shinzah
15-03-2016, 20:04
Shin's T150 Adventure Continues

I struggled and cursed at the wheel clamp, which holds very snugly despite being a ridiculous b***h to get assembled properly.
I plugged in the plastic pedals (the CSR Elites have a thick coating of dust and carpet debris and dander on them, such a sad state, I'll clean them properly later)
I plugged the wheel into the transformer
I threw the switch!
.......

Nothing happened!
So I plugged in the USB!
Calibration!

ITS ALIVE
AND UNLIKE A REAL FERRARI ITS NOT ON FIRE!


But I'm going to need help now. I need wheel settings as it's a bit...well. Pully-Tuggy Fakey Yankey wheel :| Strong tho. Quite strong. For Entry level it's at least as strong as, if not stronger than my Porsche GT3 RS V2 was. And has much less dampening mass. Soft touch silicone rubber stuff on it, like DFGT had. Shaves skin off of dry hands in a bloody hurry and gets uncomfy and itchy if you drive bare handed. I'll be using my leather gloves until I get a pair of proper SPARCO or AlpineStar gloves or put grip tape around the silicone stuff.


Worst pack-in pedals in the history of ever. That's all for this update.


IT WORKS

havocc
15-03-2016, 21:44
Worst pack-in pedals in the history of ever. That's all for this update.


Do you feel like this?
http://www.webzubra.com/wp-content/uploads/u/u-kids-car-toys-kids-car-toys-r-us-car-toys-for-kids-youtube-kids-playing-with-police-car-toys-youtube-audi-kids-car-price-toys-r-us-audi-kids-car-toys-r-us-kids-toys-car-shah-alam-sprint-car-t.jpg