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WARLOCK1972
06-01-2016, 09:43
I am a PCars noob. I recently purchased a Thrustmaster T-150 for my PS4, and love it to bits, so much better than a controller.

I have picked up and issue when playing PCars (do not have this issue with DriveClub)

The wheel will disconnect from the PS4 in the middle of a race. To get it to work again, I have to disconnect power before it is able to re-connect to the console.

I updated the firmware, and this made a small difference. Before FW, the wheel would disconnect after 10-15 minutes, now it takes around 30.

Also before FW, PCars saw the wheel as a T-150, now it see it as a T-500RS.

One thing I have noticed is that FFB on PCars is stronger than DriveClub, could it be possible that the motors are overheating ?

Any other owners out there with similar issues ?

Carbuncle
06-01-2016, 13:31
Yep. I get the same thing. I bet you get the off-centre problem too, where to drive straight you end up with the wheel being at an angle - up to about 30 degrees.
I've had my T150 for a couple of weeks and got the problem on day one. I updated the firmware but the update process said I was on the latest anyway. I had a few days with no disconnects but yesterday got several. A couple happened mid-race - ruining my chances. I was in 5th but fell back to 16th :-( To recover you can just press the PS button on the wheel and press X on the Project Cars dialog that tells you the controller has disconnected.
The wierd thing for me is that mine is still showing as T150 wheel after doing the firmware update but you and another person reports that it shows as a T500. I'll have to double check my update.
The FFB is difficult to get right. I spent/wasted two or three days adjusting settings to get it how I like it. Strange thing is I got no disconnects when doing that, so I thought the firmware issue had gone away.
Last night I reported in another post about the disconnects. It happened to me on Outlon Park with an Ariel Atom but not on Monza with a Zonda. The Outlon Park race took a lot of steering input whereas the Monza race was smooth. I also got it last night in a race at Brands Hatch in a BMW GT3. The times it happened was when I spun off and was fighting the wheel. The other time was just going round a corner and fighting the FFB to stay near to the apex.
I haven't had any issues with Drive Club but not spent a great deal of time in that since PCars is much better (IMHO). I may buy Grid Autosport to see if there is any problem with the wheel on a PC game.
Anyway - this is a real race-losing problem.

WARLOCK1972
06-01-2016, 15:35
I don't have the off centre problem but noticed if a vehicle gets airbourne, on landing almost always get a disconnect. Going try out less FFB and see if this makes a difference. PCars is definitely more aggressive on FBB than DriveClub.

GUTTER-BOY
08-01-2016, 01:26
WARLOCK: I had the same problem. I fixed it by switching to 540 degrees instead of 900. The 540 setting makes it feel like a real race car, as I was steering too much at 900. Plus the FFB and effect of hitting bumps, etc. improved, too. I race tin tops (mainly GT3 and GT4) so I won't vouch for my settings with Formula or LMP, but it might give you guys a good starting point. Here are my settings, and I hope they help:

Wheel: Thrustmaster T150 *Set at 540 not 270/360/900/1080 degrees!

DIRECTIONS:

1. To set degrees: Press and hold the option button, click right arrow on direction pad, release both buttons (option and right D pad) and watch for flashing red light. Repeat until you get 3 flashes = 540 degrees.

I mainly race GT3 & GT4 (and other tin tops). Results of 540 degrees might be different with other car types (ex: Formula or LMP).

2. Main Screen – Options and Help – Controls – Calibrate Wheel (remember to set to 540 as per Direction #1) – Calibrate Pedals –Save Calibrations.

3. Go back Configuration. Then use these settings:

Steering Deadzone (1)
Steering Sensitivity (50)
Throttle Deadzone (1)
Throttle Sensitivity (50)
Brake Deadzone (1)
Brake Sensitivity (50)
Clutch Deadzone (1)
Clutch Sensitivity (35)
Speed Sensitivity (1)
Controller Filtering Sensitivity (0)
Damper Saturation (0)
Force Feedback (85)
RPM/Gear Display (Yes)
Controller Input Mode (3)
Advanced (On)
Soft Steering Dampening (On)
Visual Wheel Filtering (On)
Opposite Lock Help (Off)
SAVE

Now go back to Controls – Calibrate Force Feedback and save these settings:

Tire Force (100)
Per Wheel Movement (0)
Per Wheel Movement Squared (0)
Wheel Position Smoothing (0.04)
Deadzone Removal Range (0.00)
Deadzone Removal Falloff (0.01)
Linkage Scale (0.00)
Linkage Stiffness (1.00)
Linkage Damping (1.00)
Relative Adjust Gain (1.10)
Relative Adjust Bleed (0.10)
Relative Adjust Clamp (0.95)
Scoop Knee (0.60)
Scoop Reduction (0.15)
Soft Clipping Half Input (0)
Soft Clipping Full Output (0)
Menu spring strength (0.10)
Low speed spring coefficient (0.70)
Low spring speed saturation (0.70)
Steering gain (1.75)

For Advanced Set Up: Free Practice – Tune per car

Video link from Inside Sim Racing that does a good job explaining/showing set up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlOdRTB4njY

My “Seat of Pants” (SOP) settings:
SOP: 74 degrees
SOP Lateral Scale: 70 degrees
SOP Differential Scale: 30 degrees
SOP Damping: 30 degrees

PSN: GUTTER-BOY
Updated: 01-07-2016

bradleyland
08-01-2016, 15:43
WARLOCK: I had the same problem. I fixed it by switching to 540 degrees instead of 900. The 540 setting makes it feel like a real race car, as I was steering too much at 900. Plus the FFB and effect of hitting bumps, etc. improved, too. I race tin tops (mainly GT3 and GT4) so I won't vouch for my settings with Formula or LMP, but it might give you guys a good starting point. Here are my settings, and I hope they help:

Wheel: Thrustmaster T150 *Set at 540 not 270/360/900/1080 degrees!

(clipped)

Shouldn't it be possible to simply adjust the steering ratio for the car in the Edit Setup screen, rather than adjusting the wheel's degrees-of-rotation setting? I've noticed that if I adjust the steering ratio down significantly, there is a FFB "stop" before I run out of actual wheel rotation. Basically, it seems to reduce the turns-to-lock automatically as you adjust the ratio. Or at least that's what it seems like. Can anyone confirm that?

beetes_juice
08-01-2016, 16:12
Don't set wheel to 540. The game adjust the DOR per car with the steering ratio setting in car setup. Ran into weird FFB issues when using different DOR's and users on here have also.

Set wheel to 900 on base + calibration and change steering ratio per car in setup to adjust DOR.

There is a bug with changing DOR in the pits: If you make any adjustments to steering ratio in the pits the game will not recognize this. Need to reload the session or just change your steering ratio in the car setup in your garage (menu).

GUTTER-BOY
08-01-2016, 17:30
Hi beetes,

I'm just curious why people recommend not setting the wheel at anything other than 900 degrees? From what I've read, it seems as though the game is at a default 900, is that why? Your post said that it can create FFB issues. Can you link to those post? I want to research them so I can make sure I'm getting the most out of the game.

I tried 240, 360 and 1080, and those were all wrong. The lower ones were too twitchy (except for maybe a Formula car where it might work), and 1080 had me spinning the wheel around several times around to go thru a tighter corner. 900 felt a little to "street car-ish" to me, meaning not how a race car really feels (I have a track car and do 4 to 5 trackdays a year, so I do know how they feel in real life). That's why I settled on 540 - it was the best compromise in steering feel, at least to me.

Since I mainly race GT3 & 4 cars, is 900 a better universal setting if you are going to race other classes? Is that why everyone seems to set up their wheels at 900 degrees right off the bat? I looked in the forums and never found a solid answer or reason, so I'm just curious. If there is a good reason I might try to set at 900 again and see if I can make it work because I want to get into the Formula and LMP later on.

Thanks.

beetes_juice
08-01-2016, 18:25
Hi beetes,

I'm just curious why people recommend not setting the wheel at anything other than 900 degrees? From what I've read, it seems as though the game is at a default 900, is that why? Your post said that it can create FFB issues. Can you link to those post? I want to research them so I can make sure I'm getting the most out of the game.

I tried 240, 360 and 1080, and those were all wrong. The lower ones were too twitchy (except for maybe a Formula car where it might work), and 1080 had me spinning the wheel around several times around to go thru a tighter corner. 900 felt a little to "street car-ish" to me, meaning not how a race car really feels (I have a track car and do 4 to 5 trackdays a year, so I do know how they feel in real life). That's why I settled on 540 - it was the best compromise in steering feel, at least to me.

Since I mainly race GT3 & 4 cars, is 900 a better universal setting if you are going to race other classes? Is that why everyone seems to set up their wheels at 900 degrees right off the bat? I looked in the forums and never found a solid answer or reason, so I'm just curious. If there is a good reason I might try to set at 900 again and see if I can make it work because I want to get into the Formula and LMP later on.

Thanks.

Your basically doing what the game is doing for us manually. As long as your re-calibrating each time you switch the DOR on the base. When I was changing DOR on my base in the early stages of the game I would lose FFB in warm-up sessions, sometimes lose it mid race, and not even load FFB prior to a race. *Early stages of game so this could have been due to other bugs in game.

Anyway, have a read through here (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?32212-XB1-Thrustmaster-TX-Discussion) and post #15 from Umer:


The recommended (or Official)

1. Calibrate to the wheel's FULL 900
2. Keep Steering Sensitivity = 50 (1:1 Linear)
3. Adjust Steering Ratio in car-specific tuning setup menu, can even do this per car/track

It's not worth messing about with anything less than your FULL wheel degrees of rotation or a non-linear steering sensitivty curve. Those can work but are inferior solutions.

Im looking for the more detailed post that outlines the math behind the steering ratio but having trouble digging that up. Basically, it gives you the DOR you will have with each steering ratio setting in game. But wheel needs to be set/calibrated at 900.

I.e. I drive the FA+GT3 around 95% of the time while I'm in game. FA, in particular has a lower DOR IRL. My wheel is configured at 900 but I change the steering ratio from anywhere between 10.X.X - 13.X.X depending on track to give myself somewhere between 360-450 DOR (estimate) on the wheel. Wheel still set to 900 but game is programmed to give me 360-450 due to my steering ratio setting. For GT3 I really don't mess with the steering ratio. 900 DOR on wheel and stock steering ratio per car.

There is a plethora of information in that thread in regards to the TM TX and is a good read for anyone who's attempting to configure a TX. Should be some user posts in there that are basically outlining what you are doing. May find a better response/makes more sense then mine. :p

GUTTER-BOY
10-01-2016, 07:52
Thanks beetes. I'll do some research on the subject, and the post you supplied is a good starting point.

I hope PCars2 has an "official" set up guide that basically runs down all the various settings and helps with the set up. I'd like something that basically explains that "X" (pick any setting) does this, and reducing it will do this, increasing it will do that, and remember that "blank" will also be affected, so be aware of their connection to various settings. I'm a relatively bright guy, but wth is scoop knee and other stuff like that?!?

Setting my wheel to 540 degrees was my short cut to try and avoid all the confusion pertaining to the steering ratio and wheel/tire force, etc. Reading a bunch of posts is helping me to slowly figure it out, so thanks again for the help putting another piece of the puzzle together.

Salty Dog
27-02-2016, 04:02
Hi lads, just set up this wheel and atm im so frustrated, im really struggling with how to get this wheel into 900, im not even sure what its factory set on?

Im trying to get the red light flashing by holding the option button and right d pad, but nothings happening, i dont even know what mode to have it in when i do that, im so confused, can somebody please help lol, im totally hopeless

cheers and thanks

EDIT Hahaha, holding the option button and not the mode button was my problem, all sorted now on the degrees of rotation, back with my next drama soon ha

cheers

BreadedVirus
04-03-2016, 02:40
WARLOCK: I had the same problem. I fixed it by switching to 540 degrees instead of 900. The 540 setting makes it feel like a real race car, as I was steering too much at 900. Plus the FFB and effect of hitting bumps, etc. improved, too. I race tin tops (mainly GT3 and GT4) so I won't vouch for my settings with Formula or LMP, but it might give you guys a good starting point. Here are my settings, and I hope they help:

Wheel: Thrustmaster T150 *Set at 540 not 270/360/900/1080 degrees!

DIRECTIONS:

1. To set degrees: Press and hold the option button, click right arrow on direction pad, release both buttons (option and right D pad) and watch for flashing red light. Repeat until you get 3 flashes = 540 degrees.

I mainly race GT3 & GT4 (and other tin tops). Results of 540 degrees might be different with other car types (ex: Formula or LMP).

2. Main Screen – Options and Help – Controls – Calibrate Wheel (remember to set to 540 as per Direction #1) – Calibrate Pedals –Save Calibrations.

3. Go back Configuration. Then use these settings:

Steering Deadzone (1)
Steering Sensitivity (50)
Throttle Deadzone (1)
Throttle Sensitivity (50)
Brake Deadzone (1)
Brake Sensitivity (50)
Clutch Deadzone (1)
Clutch Sensitivity (35)
Speed Sensitivity (1)
Controller Filtering Sensitivity (0)
Damper Saturation (0)
Force Feedback (85)
RPM/Gear Display (Yes)
Controller Input Mode (3)
Advanced (On)
Soft Steering Dampening (On)
Visual Wheel Filtering (On)
Opposite Lock Help (Off)
SAVE

Now go back to Controls – Calibrate Force Feedback and save these settings:

Tire Force (100)
Per Wheel Movement (0)
Per Wheel Movement Squared (0)
Wheel Position Smoothing (0.04)
Deadzone Removal Range (0.00)
Deadzone Removal Falloff (0.01)
Linkage Scale (0.00)
Linkage Stiffness (1.00)
Linkage Damping (1.00)
Relative Adjust Gain (1.10)
Relative Adjust Bleed (0.10)
Relative Adjust Clamp (0.95)
Scoop Knee (0.60)
Scoop Reduction (0.15)
Soft Clipping Half Input (0)
Soft Clipping Full Output (0)
Menu spring strength (0.10)
Low speed spring coefficient (0.70)
Low spring speed saturation (0.70)
Steering gain (1.75)

For Advanced Set Up: Free Practice – Tune per car

Video link from Inside Sim Racing that does a good job explaining/showing set up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlOdRTB4njY

My “Seat of Pants” (SOP) settings:
SOP: 74 degrees
SOP Lateral Scale: 70 degrees
SOP Differential Scale: 30 degrees
SOP Damping: 30 degrees

PSN: GUTTER-BOY
Updated: 01-07-2016

Is the TF and FFB set that high not an issue for the wheel?

pa_pinkelman
20-03-2016, 23:27
I am a PCars noob. I recently purchased a Thrustmaster T-150 for my PS4, and love it to bits, so much better than a controller.

I have picked up and issue when playing PCars (do not have this issue with DriveClub)

The wheel will disconnect from the PS4 in the middle of a race. To get it to work again, I have to disconnect power before it is able to re-connect to the console.

I updated the firmware, and this made a small difference. Before FW, the wheel would disconnect after 10-15 minutes, now it takes around 30.

Also before FW, PCars saw the wheel as a T-150, now it see it as a T-500RS.

One thing I have noticed is that FFB on PCars is stronger than DriveClub, could it be possible that the motors are overheating ?

Any other owners out there with similar issues ?



Are you using any other USB device when using the wheel? Like a headphone maybe?
I had disconnects last night and when I switched off my usb headphone it stopped.