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View Full Version : All ps4 steering wheel pilots should read. Especially jack spade and Morpwr.



Bunga412
21-02-2016, 10:57
This is my first post but I have wasted countless hours reading all posts in this forum. I'm addicted. I'm a console boy running a t300. It's a sweet ride. After reading a post from Morpw about lowering the Mz, it got me messing with the my ffb settings again. Thank alot guy. One thing that has always troubled me is that jack spade stands by his settings for the pc. FFB must be 100. They must translate to consoles. I have always thought there must be easy maths u could do to get the global settings to work with jacks classic settings. I think I may have finally got my head around it.

On the pc you have got the control panel set at 75%. Ps4 100%. So it's simple take 25% of certain ffb settings.

Jack says...
FFB 100 always
TF 75-25%=55
Gain 1.5-25%=1.12 I went 1.10
Steering gain 1.45-25%=1.08 I went 1.00

I have posted my global settings on the oscarolim's feedback site.

Now the big one, Mz Morpwr. Thanks fella.
This Self aligning toque, eg. The main ffb u feel getting sideways out of corners. The good feeling.

If jacks mz is 80-25%=60.
Again 70-25%=52.
Again 50-25%=38.
And so on...
I've tried these settings on about 20 odd cars today and they all feel good to me.

I hope they make a statue of jack spade one day in his home village because he has made this game playable for thousands. Me included. And thanks to Morpwr. With out u planting the seed in my head about mz I would have never looked into it more. Thanks guys.

Tomcul
21-02-2016, 11:30
It's all subjective tho I run spade settings bumps classic but with tyre force at 175 and ffb strength at 100..

Mascot
21-02-2016, 11:47
So.... take 25% off all JS's recommended values? Is that what you mean?

Bunga412
21-02-2016, 12:00
G'day mascot. Only the ones I have listed. Mz in the car setup. Tire force, relative adjust gain and steering gain in the global settings. It feels good to me. It has aloud the global settings work across a broader range of cars. I'm only a house painter not a maths professor. But give it a go. Nothing to loose.

Bunga412
21-02-2016, 13:11
My T300 settings

FFB:100
TF:55
DRR:0.03
DRF:0.015
RAG:1.10
RAB:0.15
RAC:0.80
SK:70
SR:30
MSS:0.20
LssC:0.75
LssS:0.50
SG:1.00

All mz scales in the car setup menus to be changed to -25%. This is the force that corrects the car. If it's 80 change to 60. This is just a theory. May not work on every wheel. May still need further tweeking. I am happy with the results on the t300, it's the only reason I posted this.

PureMalt77
21-02-2016, 14:34
And you should have a shot at this thread... http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?38744-Lets-talk-FFB-Post-and-Compare-short-Telemetry-Videos-and-what-FFB-tweek-used/page171

It's VERY LONG! Just jump to the last 5 pages... My whole FFB knowledge changed (improved) a lot...

Haiden
21-02-2016, 15:16
Now the big one, Mz Morpwr. Thanks fella.
This Self aligning toque, eg. The main ffb u feel getting sideways out of corners. The good feeling.

If you haven't tried isolating Mz yet, you should. Set Mz to 100, then zero out everything else (except the Master Scale), and take it for a spin. That will give you a better idea of what Mz is doing than the description alone. :)

morpwr
21-02-2016, 15:43
My T300 settings

FFB:100
TF:55
DRR:0.03
DRF:0.015
RAG:1.10
RAB:0.15
RAC:0.80
SK:70
SR:30
MSS:0.20
LssC:0.75
LssS:0.50
SG:1.00

All mz scales in the car setup menus to be changed to -25%. This is the force that corrects the car. If it's 80 change to 60. This is just a theory. May not work on every wheel. May still need further tweeking. I am happy with the results on the t300, it's the only reason I posted this.

When I figured that nobody really knew how to make the wheel settings work right yet. I was on the right track but going about it the wrong way. I see youre still using ffb at 100 and turning down tf id look at my new wheel settings and give them a try. Like puremalt said id give that forum a read weve come along way in a few months in getting a better understanding of how it works with help from everyone there. Just so you know jacks settings work fine if the wheel is set right no need to adjust them except for maybe turning off the damping on some cars.

PureMalt77
21-02-2016, 16:55
My T300 settings

FFB:100
TF:55
DRR:0.03
DRF:0.015
RAG:1.10
RAB:0.15
RAC:0.80
SK:70
SR:30
MSS:0.20
LssC:0.75
LssS:0.50
SG:1.00

All mz scales in the car setup menus to be changed to -25%. This is the force that corrects the car. If it's 80 change to 60. This is just a theory. May not work on every wheel. May still need further tweeking. I am happy with the results on the t300, it's the only reason I posted this.

Your numbers look very "promising" mate... In my list for testing next weekend! :D

Hondustar
21-02-2016, 18:06
Thank you and no thank you lol. Thanks because I can't wait to go home and try those settings out. No thank you because now I'm at work 3 hours into a 12 hour shift and all I can think about are those settings.

Ahmed.ali
22-02-2016, 23:48
thnx bunga412 for sharing your great idea. i tried your setting but the wheel was very light and i can't feel what the car doing so i increased TF=72 and it feels really good .. i hope you guys to try this and tell me if it feel right or wrong cuz i'm new in this stuff

Bunga412
23-02-2016, 12:07
Thanks for giving my theory a try Ahmed. That's all it is a theory. But maybe could u have another go at lowering the mz by only 12.5% and using my other settings again. Should add a little more weight.

After haiden's comment I have done alot more testing. Crunched a lot more numbers. I think I was wrong about about taking 25% of mz. It is hard to explain, but I think mz gets multiplied a couple of times. 25 turned out to be to much. I feel it might have something to do with mz bug some people talk about. I have also been playing around with clamp. I have set it to 0.65 with bleed at 0.10. I haven't settled on those values yet.

It's funny I have tried countless ffb settings. Everyone is trying to find the holy grail. The stig says in his book that that race drivers drive with soft hands to feel the smallest of bumps. I feel that FFB should only kick in when u really stuff up and not before, and when it does it should almost take your thumps off. One thing that makes me laugh with some of these settings is if your daily driver drove down a straight bit of road vibrating and rattling you would be booking it in for a wheel alignment.

See what you think and don't hold back.

morpwr
23-02-2016, 14:41
Thanks for giving my theory a try Ahmed. That's all it is a theory. But maybe could u have another go at lowering the mz by only 12.5% and using my other settings again. Should add a little more weight.

After haiden's comment I have done alot more testing. Crunched a lot more numbers. I think I was wrong about about taking 25% of mz. It is hard to explain, but I think mz gets multiplied a couple of times. 25 turned out to be to much. I feel it might have something to do with mz bug some people talk about. I have also been playing around with clamp. I have set it to 0.65 with bleed at 0.10. I haven't settled on those values yet.

It's funny I have tried countless ffb settings. Everyone is trying to find the holy grail. The stig says in his book that that race drivers drive with soft hands to feel the smallest of bumps. I feel that FFB should only kick in when u really stuff up and not before, and when it does it should almost take your thumps off. One thing that makes me laugh with some of these settings is if your daily driver drove down a straight bit of road vibrating and rattling you would be booking it in for a wheel alignment.

See what you think and don't hold back.

Youre finding what I found with mz. You want it back but then its too strong. Youre on the right track with the rac. It will lower the overall starting force. Remember mz is probably the most important part of the ffb settings we need to feel the car. If you try to set mz yourself with everything else turned off you will probably find you wind up really close to jacks numbers. Try turning it up until you feel a hump or notch when you turn the wheel that's where you want to back off just a little so the notch isn't there. You will usually wind up close to his. Its all about finding the right balance with the wheel settings. The other thing is jacks on pc with another place to set ffb strength that we on consoles don't have unless you have a fanatic wheel. I would try setting the ffb master to 75 and tf to 100 or 75 as per jacks new settings. Youll probably find you have a much easier time figuring it out. Right now you are limiting the ffb strength with tf. Just use the ffb master to adjust the overall strength. In most cases you will need to turn it down some.

Ahmed.ali
23-02-2016, 19:56
i tried ur setting and lowering the mz by 12.5% like you said and increase ffb master like morpwr said about 8 degree ex:"from 28 to 36 " and the result is amazing the wheel not too heavy or too light and i can feel everything ... i tried it with AUDI R8 LMS ULTRA & ASTON MARTIN VANTAGE GT3 .. I hope you & morpwr give it try and tell me if i'm right or wrong cuz you know i'm new in simracing and i didn't drive racing car before

redruMKO
23-02-2016, 23:39
Youre finding what I found with mz. You want it back but then its too strong. Youre on the right track with the rac.

I was super-agreeing, but then you said about RAC.... and I dont agree with that bit. ....my next thing I would have said is that after isolating just Mz, and getting good globals for that, and then retweaking the Mz, then finding the whole Arm Angle pandoras-box.

And to backup another point from earlier, ArmAng is CRAZY sensitive... I swear I have to notch it up one by one... and even then it doesnt make a lot of sense. eg If you tested 10 times, in 300 increments, from 0-3000. They just all feel different. Not on any particular 'scale'. All the other 4732 variables in this game make more sense than this one.

morpwr
24-02-2016, 00:56
I was super-agreeing, but then you said about RAC.... and I dont agree with that bit. ....my next thing I would have said is that after isolating just Mz, and getting good globals for that, and then retweaking the Mz, then finding the whole Arm Angle pandoras-box.

And to backup another point from earlier, ArmAng is CRAZY sensitive... I swear I have to notch it up one by one... and even then it doesnt make a lot of sense. eg If you tested 10 times, in 300 increments, from 0-3000. They just all feel different. Not on any particular 'scale'. All the other 4732 variables in this game make more sense than this one.

That's ok we don't have to agree. lol But lowering rac will lower the overall forces you just need to compensate for it somewhere. As long as it works for you its all good. I agree 100 percent on arm angle I don't think anybody has a good way of figuring that other than doing what you said. It almost seems to be wheel,settings and person dependent. Everyone has a different answer for what they use.

Bunga412
29-02-2016, 09:07
Thought I might try to resurrect my reputation on this thread. Try get some street cred.
After talking to the guys at the Lets talk ffb thread I have tweaked my original settings ALOT. In doing so I have found a lot more feeling in the wheel.

All my new settings are here.
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse/ps4-1/157

I have made the main changes to TF, PWM and SR.
I am also leaving mz as it is in jacks settings. Changing it was wrong, but is is still a good way to get rid of oscillation.

The thing that I am doing now is, adjusting with the car master scales. Trying to find the 75% in there. I have set tire force at 72. Not jacks 75, this gives me a little head room when adjusting the cars. I take 25% off the master scale, then use that as tuning window. If the car feels heavy I turn it down one click. To light up one click. Easy as. Hope someone finds these settings to be useful.

And also a thanks has to go out to Haiden, PureMalt77 and even Ahmed.ali. Your feedback has been invaluable to me and my t300.
Thanks.

morpwr
29-02-2016, 10:51
Thought I might try to resurrect my reputation on this thread. Try get some street cred.
After talking to the guys at the Lets talk ffb thread I have tweaked my original settings ALOT. In doing so I have found a lot more feeling in the wheel.

All my new settings are here.
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse/ps4-1/157

I have made the main changes to TF, PWM and SR.
I am also leaving mz as it is in jacks settings. Changing it was wrong, but is is still a good way to get rid of oscillation.

The thing that I am doing now is, adjusting with the car master scales. Trying to find the 75% in there. I have set tire force at 72. Not jacks 75, this gives me a little head room when adjusting the cars. I take 25% off the master scale, then use that as tuning window. If the car feels heavy I turn it down one click. To light up one click. Easy as. Hope someone finds these settings to be useful.

And also a thanks has to go out to Haiden, PureMalt77 and even Ahmed.ali. Your feedback has been invaluable to me and my t300.
Thanks.

I wouldn't worry about that lol. There are so many ways to get this to work and in the end it comes down to what works and feels good to you. Glad youre making progress.