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TheOneAndOnly
26-02-2016, 20:44
Hey everybody,

First of all...i'm a newbie, be gentle please ;)

I detected that my steering is really off to the left on the t300 base. It is de base, ferrari gte wheel and the two pedal set. I returned the full set tonight to the store i bought it, Mediamarkt in The Netherlands, because it had still warranty on it. No problems there, i got store gift cards credit to the ammount i payed for it in July 2015. I asked for the cards so i could order a new same set as soon as i got home from their webstore because there were no sets in store. It needed to be ordered before 22.00 to get it delivered to my house tomorrow afternoon.
Because i didn't like the standard two pedal set i ordered the t3pa set with it. Of course i am now only thinking of how and what where....u know...i hope. A few questions:

If i calibrate the pedals does pCars see/detect a shorter travel padel setup and a longer travel setup both as 100%? With the brake mod that comes with it i mean.

If i calibrate the t3pa pedals do i have to push the pedal to the very end or just to the point where it reaches the rubber cone?

I think it is just a one time setup? The brake mod that is....100% is 100% right?

Anything i need to consider/know about the change to the t3pa?

Thanks

beetes_juice
26-02-2016, 20:52
Install the brake mod and calibrate peddles in-game to 100% throw...Brake peddle should be reaching the very end with mod installed.

Going to be stiff at first but give it a few weeks to break in.

TheOneAndOnly
26-02-2016, 20:54
Thanks for the quick reply.
Sometimes you know that you know the answers but.....

Thanks

Schnizz58
26-02-2016, 21:39
Just to clarify, you don't have to calibrate to the full range it's capable of. For example, I calibrate my pedals to about 80%. The benefit of this is that I don't have to apply so much pressure to get maximum braking. The reason is that if I push too hard, my stand will slide on my floor just a little bit and then I have to drag it back towards me every couple of laps. The downside is that I'm throwing away some of the resolution that the pedals could have.

bradleyland
26-02-2016, 22:11
The game will calibrate to whatever range of movement you use during calibration. So, for example, if you stand on the brake pedal during calibration, you'll have to stand on the brake pedal to get 100% braking force. If you just press it lightly, then a light press will be considered 100%.

I adjusted the rubber cone up as far as I could, because the progressive resistance of the cone is what makes the brake mode great. If you screw it all the way in, you'll get a lot of braking before you even hit the cone. Then, during calibration, I apply firm pressure, but I don't go nuts. I apply what I would consider the maximum pressure I'll use in game.

Don't worry that you're not using all the brake travel. You'll benefit more from the progressive feel of the rubber cone squishing than you will the extra range (and the associated granularity).

Schnizz58
26-02-2016, 22:18
Yes exactly, bradleyland. Good explanation.

STEELJOCKEY
26-02-2016, 23:58
Even though I have mine calibrated with the rubber mod wound right up near the pedals, I have found it wise to recheck on the track each "first time" I play for the day. It seems like the brake needs a calibration check. I just pull up the telemetry, head out on track and hold the brake pedal down - the telemetry only shows about 50% brake pressure, but while holding the pedal, the pressure suddenly jumps to 100% and I'm all good to go for the rest of my driving. Only problem is, if the wheel loses FFB and I have to turn the wheel off and on to recalibrate it, I need to do the brake thing again. Might be just my wheel, or something to do with the fact I am not using full travel with the brake mod in and the brake pedal needs this calibration check done each time it is turned on to work out what my "full pedal travel" is. Otherwise, give the rubber bung a few weeks of hard mashing to break in properly.

Looking forward to receiving my load cell mod for these pedals though, should be an even better improvement than the rubber bung and give some real feel.

bradleyland
27-02-2016, 00:07
Even though I have mine calibrated with the rubber mod wound right up near the pedals, I have found it wise to recheck on the track each "first time" I play for the day. It seems like the brake needs a calibration check. I just pull up the telemetry, head out on track and hold the brake pedal down - the telemetry only shows about 50% brake pressure, but while holding the pedal, the pressure suddenly jumps to 100% and I'm all good to go for the rest of my driving. Only problem is, if the wheel loses FFB and I have to turn the wheel off and on to recalibrate it, I need to do the brake thing again. Might be just my wheel, or something to do with the fact I am not using full travel with the brake mod in and the brake pedal needs this calibration check done each time it is turned on to work out what my "full pedal travel" is. Otherwise, give the rubber bung a few weeks of hard mashing to break in properly.

Looking forward to receiving my load cell mod for these pedals though, should be an even better improvement than the rubber bung and give some real feel.

That's a great point! I always forget about this, because it's become habit. What I do is stomp my pedal a few good times, even in the menus. I know it sounds silly, but it appears that the brake pedal has to be moved through it's full calibrated range of motion before it picks up the custom calibration. Really strange. If I don't do that, I only get partial range of motion.

Schnizz58
27-02-2016, 00:47
It says in the Thrustmaster documentation that you should step on the pedals a few times every time you power up the wheel. It has an internal calibration sequence that it goes through that is separate from the game calibration. I have just made it a habit to work the pedals a few times each as I'm cruising down pit road.

Jockey I think you're really going to like the load cell mod.

STEELJOCKEY
27-02-2016, 00:54
Yeah I think so, when Aussie Post get off their A.. and ships it the last 200miles to me. 6 days from Inianapolis to Sydney, then MAYBE another 2-3 weeks. AHHHHHHHH!!!!!!

TheOneAndOnly
27-02-2016, 12:27
Before staying ontopic....why am i logged out so quick? Hardly have time to post something...

TheOneAndOnly
27-02-2016, 15:41
Well, i still have the same problem. The new steering wheel is also slightly off to the left. I am gonna try gt6 on the ps3 to see if its the wheel or pCars that is causing the problem. grrr

The new t3pa pedal set doesn't fit on the pedal plate of my 10 year old budget "rig" so it has to wait till i have enough saved for a new rig...grrr

Also the pCars dash is not working as it should, the shift flash is not in sync...grrr

Not having a good day...

STEELJOCKEY
27-02-2016, 19:35
Well, i still have the same problem. The new steering wheel is also slightly off to the left. I am gonna try gt6 on the ps3 to see if its the wheel or pCars that is causing the problem.

Go to Thrustmaster support site, look for the downloads section, enter your 1- platform, 2-wheel, 3-wheel type, 4-manuals, look down for "checking and reconfiguring wheel centre value", got to this PDF and follow the instructions to manually set the wheel properly. This will be saved in the wheel and won't need to be done again.

bradleyland
27-02-2016, 23:37
Go to Thrustmaster support site, look for the downloads section, enter your 1- platform, 2-wheel, 3-wheel type, 4-manuals, look down for "checking and reconfiguring wheel centre value", got to this PDF and follow the instructions to manually set the wheel properly. This will be saved in the wheel and won't need to be done again.

This ^^

I had to recenter my T300 as well. Works great now.

TheOneAndOnly
28-02-2016, 01:23
Thanks everybody! All the comments have helped so far. It is nice to see such quick responses to newcomers, we need that! A lot lol.

For the off center problem,
I contacted Trustmaster about the problem and explained it as clearly as i could (email). This was before i read the comments of Steeljockey and Bradleyland...i am gonna look into that asap, thnx. We will see if it works.

*edit* Manually?

STEELJOCKEY
28-02-2016, 01:50
It's a manual fix that works permanently. Wheel remembers where you set it and re calibrates to your set point every time, no need to do it again. I usually use my knees to pin it at the centre leaving my hands free to press buttons and "save" it.

Chase down your wheel type through support, downloads here
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php

Paulzx
28-02-2016, 07:29
Install the brake mod and calibrate peddles in-game to 100% throw...Brake peddle should be reaching the very end with mod installed.

Going to be stiff at first but give it a few weeks to break in.

I didn't get any joy with the conical brake mod. I didn't give it weeks to break in either, but from installing it, it was so stiff there was virtually no travel in it at all,
so pressing the brake pedal against it just resulted in a full stop, it was horrible.

I have noticed with the T3PA brake pedal without the mod, that if you manually calibrate it just short of full travel, braking is quicker when driving.

TheOneAndOnly
28-02-2016, 10:05
This is what i think is the right pdf.

*edit* I just tried this and it works great. I hope it stays this way. Thanks to Steeljockey for this!

228479

Fight-Test
28-02-2016, 13:20
I didn't get any joy with the conical brake mod. I didn't give it weeks to break in either, but from installing it, it was so stiff there was virtually no travel in it at all,
so pressing the brake pedal against it just resulted in a full stop, it was horrible.

I have noticed with the T3PA brake pedal without the mod, that if you manually calibrate it just short of full travel, braking is quicker when driving.

The mod is for resistance so muscle memory is capable of being me accurate. Something is setup wrong if the pedal has no movement. It's adjustable so should be easy fix. Sounds like u laced it too close to pedal.

bradleyland
28-02-2016, 15:33
You do have to give the cone a bit to break in too. Good car brakes are firm and give progressive braking with more pressure, not travel. The problem is that we're all used to driving cars with mushy pedals (compared to race cars). I tried the pedals with and without the cone as well. Using them with the cone results in shorter travel, but way more difference in the pressure required. So it depends on what you're used to/capable of. My foot positional memory isn't that great, so the pressure-biased cone setup works for me. YMMV.

maxx69
28-02-2016, 18:43
I've found with the t3pa pedals , you need to fully press the brake at the start of a session or you won't have full brakes , check the telemetry screen.
Once you do this it's fine.....took a couple of first corner clangers to find this out :rolleyes:

STEELJOCKEY
28-02-2016, 21:49
Once you fit the brake mod, the pedal needs a quick calibration process each time the wheel is started so it works out the brake pedal travel to give 100% use. This is a simple process, when you start the game, push the brake pedal down as far as you can a couple of times, calibration done.

TheOneAndOnly
28-02-2016, 23:01
Thank you! That's good information. I wish i could use them already...but its gonna take a few months to save up some cash for a new rig. It's pretty frustrating i might ad...racing with the standard pedals with the new ones standing in the corner waiting. But at least my wheel is working properly now!

Gary29
29-02-2016, 08:05
My T300 pedals completely shit themselves the other night, the throttle was flapping about, so I took them apart and the torsion springs were both 'work hardened' I tried to adjust the springs, but they both just fell apart, very poor quality.

T3pa pedals on order, looking forward to trying the conical brake mod, and maybe the ricmotech load cell if the conical is not too my taste.

Not impressed with the standard T300 pedals at all though, less than 6 months light use and they're broken.

maxx69
29-02-2016, 11:00
Thank you! That's good information. I wish i could use them already...but its gonna take a few months to save up some cash for a new rig. It's pretty frustrating i might ad...racing with the standard pedals with the new ones standing in the corner waiting. But at least my wheel is working properly now!

Surely you can do some DIY on your rig to accommodate the new pedals ? Drill new holes , make adapters, use cable ties even make a new pedal plate ??
I know not everyone is a "hands on, tools out" type of guy but it's worth a go ....no ?.
I'm like a kid at Christmas, me , just can't wait to get using my new kit .
Good luck whatever you do ;)

TheOneAndOnly
29-02-2016, 11:30
Of course i have been thinking of a diy solution...my brain is farting constantly.

But....i have one of the first playseats ever and it is almost at the end of his life. It has the thin square tubing they first used. The pedal plate and the base plate are both bend and the seat is used up. I have already reinforced the thing with a wooden frame that i attached to it.
But....on the contrast, this is the sturdiest rig i have ever been in. It is incredibly stable! That's why the thing is still used by me.

So, thats why i have difficulties deciding what to do next...fix the old one again or buy a new rig in a few months. Another option i am considering is to build a new wooden one from scratch. This last option is getting more and more appealing to me. If i look at how much stability a few pieces of wood can do to my current rig....And of course its always fun to make something yourself.

maxx69
29-02-2016, 16:48
Of course i have been thinking of a diy solution...my brain is farting constantly.

But....i have one of the first playseats ever and it is almost at the end of his life. It has the thin square tubing they first used. The pedal plate and the base plate are both bend and the seat is used up. I have already reinforced the thing with a wooden frame that i attached to it.
But....on the contrast, this is the sturdiest rig i have ever been in. It is incredibly stable! That's why the thing is still used by me.

So, thats why i have difficulties deciding what to do next...fix the old one again or buy a new rig in a few months. Another option i am considering is to build a new wooden one from scratch. This last option is getting more and more appealing to me. If i look at how much stability a few pieces of wood can do to my current rig....And of course its always fun to make something yourself.

A tailored rig is excellent, I made mine to suit me using black ash faced chipboard, left over from a job .
Just added a very comfortable 106 GTI seat I got for 20 , to replace the uncomfortable XRocker gaming seat .
Found a great video on YouTube showing you how to make a transducer/ but kicker ,very simple .
I tread carefully , as I'm a joiner and know it's not everyone who can throw together a rig.
My whole rig cost me 20 , which means I can justify buying more kit.
If you can make templates and use a router , your half way there .
Good luck :)

maxx69
29-02-2016, 16:54
228550 it looks a bit different now , but doesn't take up to much room and is moved out of the way easily . Also this is my preferred driving position.

Paulzx
29-02-2016, 20:56
The . Sounds like u laced it too close to pedal.

No, I've had it wound right back and close to the pedal, I never got any joy either way because the rubber cone itself was just too stiff
so whatever point the pedal hits the cone, there was no progression really, just a full stop at that point.

I take the point about not being used to a firm brake pedal though, so i'm going to try that conical mod again and try to use it enough to soften it up
and get that bit of progression i'm missing with it now.