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Linx
07-04-2016, 07:42
I just got the Buttkicker Simulation Kit and mounted it to my rig. Finally got a chance tonight to sit down and try it out. I'm a bit confused on how I should set it up. First off, it seems I can't get rid of the clipping light to stay off without turning it down so low that you can barely feel it. Though the transducer is not bottoming out. So I was playing it like this. Anyways, I'm not sure how strong to set it. I first had it up to where it's continually shaking and gets stronger when I hit my brakes, thinking that the continuous shake is simulating the engine. Though I don't think that's right. I then turned it down to where I only feel it when going over the rumble strips and heavy braking. Can someone give me an idea how I should tune this thing? I'm also not seeing a difference with the low pass filter button pressed in or out. Nor am I sure where I should have the knob turned to. Thanks.

Ryzza5
07-04-2016, 08:40
My only suggestions would be (1) to set the volume to a point where you won't break the amp within a few months (I've gone through 2 units), and (2), check out SimVibe software if you haven't already. It provides more tuning options.

http://simxperience.com/en-us/products/simvibe/simvibesoftware.aspx

Linx
07-04-2016, 08:42
My only suggestions would be (1) to set the volume to a point where you won't break the amp within a few months (I've gone through 2 units), and (2), check out SimVibe software if you haven't already. It provides more tuning options.

http://simxperience.com/en-us/products/simvibe/simvibesoftware.aspx
I'm on console (PS4), so I can't use Simvibe. Did you break your amp due to clipping?

Mascot
07-04-2016, 08:51
I use a BK Gamer 2 with my PS4 and I'd LOVE to know how to get good, strong general effects (which I have) but without the occasional massive spike (eg during a high-speed crash) that sounds like someone smashing a metal hammer onto a metal table, and like my BK is trying to kill itself. Any detailed suggestions please?

bporion
07-04-2016, 20:27
I have mine set like this : low filter cutoff is on , hight cutoff frequency is on and set to 160 . I usually set it so it clippes but not so mutch that the red light is on all the time . But if you do a long race lets say longer then 30 min , it might over heat and stop working for a while . Thing to remember it works in every game whit different intensity , RE3 is very strong , Pcars is a little less but better , and Codemasters F1 games it doesn't work at all in game but does work in the menu :mad: also it very important that it is monted in the right place on the rig it dosent just go anywhere .

Fanapryde
07-04-2016, 20:37
My Buttkicker Gamer 2 transducer behaved the same as @Linx device.
The guys at Guytammer were not sure what was wrong with it. It was humming and shaking all the time, whatever settings I tried, while the red clipping light on the Amp almost never lit up.
After a few months the Amp started blowing its fuses.
I bought the set in Germany and it is now RMA. I was told the unit was faulty but that they did not have replacement for the moment, since Guitammer is reworking it. I was promised one of the new / reworked sets.

I must say I miss the BKG2 on my rig...

Linx
07-04-2016, 20:46
What consistency am I looking for? Should I have it where I only feel it in rumble strips, braking, gear shifts, etc? Or should there also be a consistent rumble as to replicate the motor? But when I set it up like that there was no difference in rumble in relation to rpm. Another thing is I get vibration from other cars, say, at the start line. Being that I'm on console (ps4) and I have it hooked to the audio out of my TV, is there any way to get around this or is that just the way it is? Last question, should I use the isolators that came with the Buttkicker? Do they make a big difference. I just don't want to have to drill holes in my rig if I don't have to and I can't think of any other way of attaching them. I'm on carpet.

Fanapryde
07-04-2016, 20:53
Without Simvibe software, the Buttkicker reacts to ALL inputs, e.g. also the sound of thunder, or music or...
(Simvibe is only for PC use).

bporion
07-04-2016, 21:06
What consistency am I looking for? Should I have it where I only feel it in rumble strips, braking, gear shifts, etc? Or should there also be a consistent rumble as to replicate the motor? But when I set it up like that there was no difference in rumble in relation to rpm. Another thing is I get vibration from other cars, say, at the start line. Being that I'm on console (ps4) and I have it hooked to the audio out of my TV, is there any way to get around this or is that just the way it is? Last question, should I use the isolators that came with the Buttkicker? Do they make a big difference. I just don't want to have to drill holes in my rig if I don't have to and I can't think of any other way of attaching them. I'm on carpet.

It's really what you like , I like the thing to be going nuts and don't forget it will give you different vibrations whit different cars a car whit a hight pitch sounding engine will get you less vibration ...

Ekay.jay
07-04-2016, 22:16
I don't have the buttkicker due to them being in back order for eternity. I do however have 4 aura pro shakers. In order to get rid of that constant engine rumble I ended up reducing the in game engine sound. Before I had it at 100%, now I'm somewhere around 60-50%. I still feel and hear the engine, but it's a lot more subtle. You should give it a try.

Tomcul
09-04-2016, 09:51
I have a buttkicker gamer 1 set fairly low so all I feel is mainly a thud when changing gear on some cars and to be honest I barely use it..
Imo it's a better device on PC as you can use sim vibe, there's too many bass tones to deal with when using it for car games on ps4..

Ryzza5
12-04-2016, 23:04
I'm surprised SimVibe haven't made console versions of pCARS supported yet, as they would have had to make changes to re-support the PC version when it changed from Shared Memory to UDP. Community app makers have made the switch ok, so it should be feasible (if your console and PC are next to each other at least).

gazza1101
13-04-2016, 04:50
I would suggest turning down the upper frequency response and concentrating on the kerbs gear change and road noise a little to protect the amp, a little less clipping, I dont have a buttkicker but something similar and really hoping that Simvibe incorparate UDP soon!!! I have Emailed Simvibe but had no response, must have been almost a week ago.

Linx
13-04-2016, 05:45
Thanks guys. I've taken your advice and have it to where it seems pretty good. But now I have another question. While sitting in my rig and racing, the Buttkicker seems quiet. But yesterday I was doing some things around the room while the in game music was playing. Standing a few feet away from the rig I noticed certain frequencies really send a sub sonic rumble, almost sounding like an earthquake. I live in a carpeted apartment and luckily have no joining walls with neighbors besides the ones that live above me. Being that I live California, in the city of Northridge (home of the 1994- 7.2 earthquake) I'm not sure if the upstairs neighbors can hear this rumble and don't want to startle them, especially since my free time is usually late at night. Will the isolators that came with the system help eliminate any chance of the neighbors hearing it? I have a Obutto Ozone rig and it's round tubing. I'm trying not to drill into it if I don't have to. But even if I dodo, drilling into round tubing isn't gonna be easy. So does anyone have any other idea of attaching them?

gazza1101
13-04-2016, 20:03
Thanks guys. I've taken your advice and have it to where it seems pretty good. But now I have another question. While sitting in my rig and racing, the Buttkicker seems quiet. But yesterday I was doing some things around the room while the in game music was playing. Standing a few feet away from the rig I noticed certain frequencies really send a sub sonic rumble, almost sounding like an earthquake. I live in a carpeted apartment and luckily have no joining walls with neighbors besides the ones that live above me. Being that I live California, in the city of Northridge (home of the 1994- 7.2 earthquake) I'm not sure if the upstairs neighbors can hear this rumble and don't want to startle them, especially since my free time is usually late at night. Will the isolators that came with the system help eliminate any chance of the neighbors hearing it? I have a Obutto Ozone rig and it's round tubing. I'm trying not to drill into it if I don't have to. But even if I dodo, drilling into round tubing isn't gonna be easy. So does anyone have any other idea of attaching them? Hi, I have a similar problem in that the rumble can be heard below(I have my cockpit in a 1st floor bedroom) it was suggested to me on another forum that a Yoga mat would help but not eliminate the problem, not sure if this helps?

Thug
13-04-2016, 20:15
I screwed wooden batons tot he bottom of mine then glued foam to the bottom of them (actually, it was a garden kneel pad I bought for about 1 and cut up).
It works great, and I no longer get shouted at by the GF.

231388

231389

Beans n Chips
14-04-2016, 02:41
Spent a lot of money on different isolators over the years from cheap ebay solutions to industrial springs.

Buttkickers or Clark T100 isolators work quite well, (Parts Express.com) 3 day shipping to UK.
Check also for neoprene strips on ebay.

You can do a single layer/tier with just one rubber based neoprene type isolator or as you have with the timber.
Adding more than one has benefits.

The first helps the tactile quality in helping it stay in the metal/cockpit frame but some will often pass though this isolator.
Using a (MDF) 18mm full base length like a platform or cut to size solution helps act as a trap to soak/disperse the rest
A secondary isolator helps maintain this tactile in the wood and even less will seep into your wooden floor

I have previously used this approach and others have had success with it
Although I also use rubber floor tiles but Im using lots of tactile

Depends on the amount of tactile you may use and the output power

Linx
14-04-2016, 04:42
Spent a lot of money on different isolators over the years from cheap ebay solutions to industrial springs.

Buttkickers or Clark T100 isolators work quite well, (Parts Express.com) 3 day shipping to UK.
Check also for neoprene strips on ebay.

You can do a single layer/tier with just one rubber based neoprene type isolator or as you have with the timber.
Adding more than one has benefits.

The first helps the tactile quality in helping it stay in the metal/cockpit frame but some will often pass though this isolator.
Using a (MDF) 18mm full base length like a platform or cut to size solution helps act as a trap to soak/disperse the rest
A secondary isolator helps maintain this tactile in the wood and even less will seep into your wooden floor

I have previously used this approach and others have had success with it
Although I also use rubber floor tiles but Im using lots of tactile

Depends on the amount of tactile you may use and the output power
Ok wait. I'm confused now. Aren't I supposed to use all six of them? How am I gonna balance my rig if I use anything less? I thought I put two on front, two in the middle, and two at the rear. And I'm supposed to out them between the floor and the rig right.?

Slowsley
14-04-2016, 05:48
That's where mine are. I have 2 in front, 2 rear, and 2 under my pedal plate.

Beans n Chips
14-04-2016, 10:10
Ok wait. I'm confused now. Aren't I supposed to use all six of them? How am I gonna balance my rig if I use anything less? I thought I put two on front, two in the middle, and two at the rear. And I'm supposed to out them between the floor and the rig right.?

Sorry was late when posting my reference to "one" was regards layers :)

Layer 1 Isolators (4-6 whatever you need to balance)
Layer 2 Wood (absorbs overflowing tactile. Cover it with rubber matting/car flooring or paint/style it how you like)
Layer 3 Secondary Isolators (4-6 reduces tactile spilling into floor/surface)

The wood sections can be only as big as you need them to be. Personally I like the Clark T100 isolators as they are not over expensive but bigger than the Buttkicker ones. They are about 2.5" Dia x 1" thick.See Here (http://www.parts-express.com/clark-synthesis-ti-100-round-natural-rubber-foot-bumper-25-dia-x-1-h--300-876)
These look to be the same/similar but much cheaper Here (http://www.markertek.com/product/penn-9106/penn-elcom-9106-2-5-inch-diameter-x-1-inch-high-large-rubber-foot)


An alternative is making the wood a base section underneath the whole cockpit frame width/length. Think of it like how Playseat sell a floor matt for underneath their cockpits. Here you can be creative, shape it, add style/flare if you wish, led lighting underneath whatever takes your fancy. (ooohhh)

Or you could go RAW like "Thug" has done but to me that looks rather amateur, in my opinion spoiling his nice cockpit.
Doing it right yes could cost a bit but it will improve the tactile within the cockpit and reduce the vibrations to other surfaces

If you want a visual illustration of this to try, while not scientific level of measurement. Some vibration apps on phones/tablets can show the vibration force and this will be stronger/increased as more of the tactile stays maintained in the cockpit when using good isolation.

If its any help I have T100 T200 and even the expensive $60 a pop T300 isolators, none of them prevent vibrations totally but the above tier method does help (from my experience anyways).

Understand better how TONES feel...
Test Your Tactile/Buttkicker via Audio (20Hz-100Hz recommended) * Over 90Hz does little more than tingle
Try It Here (http://onlinetonegenerator.com/subwoofer.html)

Thug
14-04-2016, 10:52
Or you could go RAW like "Thug" has done but to me that looks rather amateur, in my opinion spoiling his nice cockpit.


I agree, but it was only a quick fix when the GF shouted at me to quieten in down, and to be honest I didn't even know if it was going to work or not.
I am not going to do much more, just paint it black to blend it a little. Possibly get some black foam too.
To be honest, its just sat in my PC room that only I go in, so not too bothered about it looking 'pretty'.

Beans n Chips
14-04-2016, 11:16
No worries, its your rig mate, how you have it is up to you, some are not so caring for aesthetics others I guess are. :D

Thug
14-04-2016, 15:44
No worries, its your rig mate, how you have it is up to you, some are not so caring for aesthetics others I guess are. :D

Yeah, I have even seen some people put on helmets, gloves and boots to sit at a stationary racing sim, playing a game.
Each to their own I guess.
Not judging BTW, as long as it makes them happy and helps the 'experience'.

Linx
14-04-2016, 16:43
Yeah, I have even seen some people put on helmets, gloves and boots to sit at a stationary racing sim, playing a game.
Each to their own I guess.
Not judging BTW, as long as it makes them happy and helps the 'experience'.
The helmet thing is funny. I have a pair of beat up shoes I'd never dare to wear outside but I use them to race as I can feel the pedals the best with them. Gloves I need to get cuz after long sessions of racing I can develop some blisters.