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MillsLayne
21-05-2016, 23:59
I recently saw some gameplay video of this, not having known about it before, and while it doesn't look as good as what's currently on the market, it seemed fairly solid. Has anyone played it and if so, what did you think?

E_Luckow
22-05-2016, 00:17
Do not expect any graphics even close to PCars or AC, BUT, it´s a very solid simulator. Better than RFactor 2? same level, more appealing content, IMO, better than RaceRoom? waaay better.

You can find a very nice and strong community racing Automobilista in Race Department.
Offline... very entertaining!

MillsLayne
22-05-2016, 22:28
I might have to try this out, then! I tried rFactor and was somewhat impressed by it. Nothing that blew me away, though.

As67
22-05-2016, 22:38
If you're more for the feel than the looks, then give it a try, you won't regret it. It has more than enough of Brasilian tracks and shortage of European/American tracks, but it's so much fun, you shouldn't miss the supertrucks over the ramps. But i think it's PC only.

MillsLayne
22-05-2016, 23:35
That's fine. I just to need to make sure that my PC would run it properly. I already have a couple of wheels that will work on PC.

Jussi Viljami Karjalainen
23-05-2016, 14:48
It's essentially upgraded rFactor 1 with physics largely by Niels Heusinkveld, one of, if not THE best rFactor modder, especially superior when it comes to tyres. The tyre model doesn't have the dynamic depth of some of the newer stuff because it is a steady state model, but it is by far the best application of the old isiEngine, and definitely worth a try if you find the content appealing.

bporion
23-05-2016, 17:56
If you like good graphics stay away !!!!! I looks worst then rfactor 1 .

Sankyo
23-05-2016, 19:15
... it is a solid state model...
Um, static state? :)

Jussi Viljami Karjalainen
23-05-2016, 23:12
If you like good graphics stay away !!!!! I looks worst then rfactor 1 .Looks pretty much exactly like rFactor with some small shader updates on my end. =/


Um, static state? :)Turns out it's steady state, in the end. =)

MillsLayne
24-05-2016, 02:27
Physics are more important to me than graphics. Although, how's the damage model? That IS important to me.

E_Luckow
24-05-2016, 03:17
Physics are more important to me than graphics. Although, how's the damage model? That IS important to me.

It's very good.

And no, the game looks way better than rfactor 1.

Sankyo
24-05-2016, 06:03
Turns out it's steady state, in the end. =)

Yep, that was it. Spent too much time pondering over the exact term that everything sounded weird to me in the end :p

FS7
29-09-2016, 17:57
Steam sale, AMS @ 20% off, AMS + season pass @ 24% off.

Dan77 DESTROYER
05-10-2016, 11:14
A couple of guys I race with have recently bought this and have been streaming it and it looks pretty good from what I've seen, yes the graphics aren't the greatest but the physics are good from what I've heard, I shall be joining them on it soon hopefully, looking forward to trying it out for myself :)

Cheesenium
08-10-2016, 06:01
The graphics isnt the greatest but the content, physics and sound is definitely on par with the competition.

AMS tend to pick something different from the competition, such as Marcas touring cars, Brazil V8s, Formula Vee, upcoming racing trucks and so on. That alone made me play the game a lot more as there are so many unique content to AMS.

Dan77 DESTROYER
05-12-2016, 12:21
Had this about a month now and it's awesome, physics/ffb are spot on and the cars/track selection is very good, the mods add more goodness to an already good base package, have recently signed up with RWB Racing and have had some of the most intense clean racing I've done in a long time, extremely glad I moved away from console which is going backwards with every game it releases currently it seems, Assetto corsa was such a disappointment it prompted me to make the jump to pc (should of done it a year ago) so glad I did.
Anyway just thought I'd share my findings on this as it's put a smile on my face, would highly recommend it :)

Wakefield
05-12-2016, 14:20
The physics of the game are very good!

BigDad
06-12-2016, 10:56
Get it only if you never want to play pCars again ,lol it makes it feel...not so good .
But seriously AMS is very good . If you have a pretty beefy pc and can max out AA and HDR settings it looks as good as anything else on the market . People at my place actually think it looks more realistic than AC and pCars . Just missing the interiour shadows which is a let down .
The FFB and physics also kick butt and there are quite a few good mods that will get you some content that is more like the stuff we usually see in other products on the market .
i would definitely recommend it and also get the season pass so you can get in on the Beta action and all the coming packs and also the money will help Reiza further fund their next big thing .

BigDad
06-12-2016, 10:58
Looks pretty much exactly like rFactor with some small shader updates on my end. =/

Turns out it's steady state, in the end. =)

Any chance of a look at your shader updates ? If it is anything like other things you have done it should be worth a look :)

Haiden
06-12-2016, 13:14
Definitely worth getting. Don't be turned off by the initial setup curve. It seems bigger than it is when you first load the game, because the GUI appears a little cluttered and unorganized and the graphics are very dated looking out of the box. A few months ago, I installed it, played for about 2 hours, and then returned it for a refund. Boy was I wrong.

Last week I reinstalled it, and gave it a go (after having read more about the mods and graphics settings). Letting the GPU handle the graphics settings, instead of the game, makes a huge difference. Like mentioned above, if you have a strong GPU/PC, you can max out the settings and use the HDR mode, which raises the graphic quality to more than acceptable standards. Do that, and the game actually looks really good and graphics become a complete non-issue. In fact, many of the track mods have seasonal variants of the track, so you can select spring, summer, or autumn. Autumn can be amazing on many tracks, because of the colors of the trees and scenery. :) And I agree that AMS' graphics actually look a bit more realistic, compared to the TV-optimized images in most modern games, which look great on-screen, but don't really look like anything you see when you look out your window. :)

IMO, the physics and modeling in AMS is second to nothing I've tried. (PCars, AMS, R3E, AC, rF2). Yes, you have to use .ini files for dialing clipping out of the FFB, but it's literally only one setting per car you have to fiddle with. Initially, I though that requiring people to use .ini files for editing the FFB was dumb and the lack of GUI controls seemed to indicate it was something that hadn't been fully development for the launch version. But now I see that it actually gives you more control. Unlike PCars and other games, with FFB scales ranging from 0-100, or 0-200, AMS' FFB gains are much more scalable, with values ranging from 0.0 - 99999.0, and I'm not even saying that's the limit. Basically, there's no ceiling, you can rescale the FFB as much as needed to dial out clipping and/or produce the exact level of force you want. The cars feel absolutely incredible, and fully connected to road (a feeling PCars lacks, IMO).

Same goes for the GUI. What I thought was a mess, I now think was designed/structured in a way that allows the game to remember your session settings at a per car level. Basically, it remembers that the last time you used Car-X, you were on XXXXXX track, with AI difficulty set to 90. Switch to Car-B, and it remembers you were at XXXXXXX track with AI difficulty set to 85. There are quite a few little conveniences I've discovered. Very helpful and intuitive, considering preferred AI difficulty can often vary by car/track combo.

Content-wise, there's just so many different cars, car series, and tracks available. And a lot of tracks you don't typically see in sims, which I really like, because a lot of them are great, and it's always fun learning new tracks. There are also more than enough liveries available to make the grids look great. Also, a lot of the livery packs are based on RL seasons, instead of fictitious teams and sponsorship, which increases the realism factor.

I avoided download GT3 mods in AMS, because I thought I'd had enough of them in other titles. Again... I was wrong. After downloading one of the many GT series available, I was surprised by how good every single one of the cars felt. Even cars I didn't care much for in PCars, I love in AMS. And it's simply because of the FFB feel, car handling, and sounds. AMS has nailed it in those areas.

AMS also has far more realistic track evolution--rubbering, marbles, dry line, etc. And the AI is also better and more scalable, with difficulty settings above 100% and a separate scale for controlling their aggression level (which is huge). These two elements alone, make for some terrific racing. Also allows for more session variety for practicing craft. Try cranking the difficulty and aggression for a session, and then starting first. You'll spend the race defending, which can help you improve your craft. :)

Sorry. I've been in love with PCars since it launched, but it just doesn't feel the same anymore. Graphically, it's still superior, but there's far more to the experience than graphics, and IMO, AMS is more satisfying in many of these areas. All of the cars feel great, and the open wheel experience in AMS is arguably the best I've had (between PCars, AC, AMS, R3E, and rF2).

In short, the game is on sale. Go for it. Just don't be discouraged by the initial setup. Stick with it, and you will be rewarded. :)

Edit: I'm not saying that PCars is terrible, or that there's anything wrong with it, or trying to open a subjective debate as to which is the better sim. I'm just saying that, as a complete package, AMS definitely gives PCars a run for the money, and, depending on what you value in a sim experience, may even surpass it.

Also... for help with graphic settings: Start the game from the Steam console, doing so brings up additional options. Choose the User Guide, and it will open a PDF with detailed instructions on how to configure Nvidia GPU drivers. Reiza also recommends running the game in Windowed mode, using the borderless option. They say it runs smoother, but I haven't really noticed much difference. If anything, I think the full screen works best, performance-wise. However, I highly recommend running it in a window while you tweak your FFB settings, because when running in fullscreen, AMS doesn't like the Alt-Tab window switching and will freeze. When running in windowed mode, this is a non-issue, and it allows you to make .ini file changes without exiting the game.

BigDad
06-12-2016, 14:38
Definitely worth getting. Don't be turned off by the initial setup curve. It seems bigger than it is when you first load the game, because the GUI appears a little cluttered and unorganized and the graphics are very dated looking out of the box. A few months ago, I installed it, played for about 2 hours, and then returned it for a refund. Boy was I wrong.

Last week I reinstalled it, and gave it a go (after having read more about the mods and graphics settings). Letting the GPU handle the graphics settings, instead of the game, makes a huge difference. Like mentioned above, if you have a strong GPU/PC, you can max out the settings and use the HDR mode, which raises the graphic quality to more than acceptable standards. Do that, and the game actually looks really good and graphics become a complete non-issue. In fact, many of the track mods have seasonal variants of the track, so you can select spring, summer, or autumn. Autumn can be amazing on many tracks, because of the colors of the trees and scenery. :) And I agree that AMS' graphics actually look a bit more realistic, compared to the TV-optimized images in most modern games, which look great on-screen, but don't really look like anything you see when you look out your window. :)

IMO, the physics and modeling in AMS is second to nothing I've tried. (PCars, AMS, R3E, AC, rF2). Yes, you have to use .ini files for dialing clipping out of the FFB, but it's literally only one setting per car, you have to fiddle with. Initially, I though that requiring people to use .ini files for editing the FFB was dumb and the lack of GUI controls seemed to indicate it was something that hadn't been fully development for the launch version. But now I see that it actually gives you more control. Unlike PCars and other games, with FFB scales ranging from 0-100, or 0-200, AMS' FFB gains are much more scalable, with values ranging from 0.0000 - 0.99999, and I'm not even saying that's the limit. Basically, there's no ceiling, you can rescale the FFB as much as needed to dial out clipping and/or produce the exact level of force you want. The cars feel absolutely incredible, and fully connected to road (a feeling PCars lacks, IMO).

Same goes for the GUI. What I thought was a mess, I now think was designed/structured in a way that allows the game to remember your session settings at a per car level. Basically, it remembers that the last time you use Car-X, you were on XXXXXX track, with AI difficulty set to 90. Switch to Car-B, and it remembers you were at XXXXXXX track with AI difficulty set to 85. There are quite a few little conveniences I've discovered. Very helpful and intuitive, considering preferred AI difficulty can often vary by car/track combo.

Content-wise, there's just so many different cars, car series, and tracks available. And a lot of tracks you don't typically see in sims, which I really like, because a lot of them are great, and it's always fun learning new tracks. There are also more than enough liveries available to make the grids look great. Also, a lot of the livery packs are based on RL seasons, instead of fictitious teams and sponsorship, which increases the realism factor.

I avoided download GT3 mods in AMS, because I thought I'd had enough of them in other titles. Again, I was wrong. After downloading one of the many GT series available, I was surprised by how good every single one of the cars felt. Even cars I didn't care much for in PCars, I love in AMS. And it's simply because of the FFB feel, car handling, and sounds. AMS has nailed it in those areas.

AMS also has far more realistic track evolution--rubbering, marbles, dry line, etc. And the AI is also better and more scalable, with difficulty settings above 100% and a separate scale for controlling aggression level (which is huge). These two elements alone, make for some terrific racing.

Sorry. I've been in love with PCars since it launched, but it just doesn't feel the same anymore. Graphically, it's still superior, but there's far more to the experience the graphics, and IMO, AMS is more satisfying in many of these areas. All of the cars feel great, and the open wheel experience in AMS is arguably the best I've had (between PCars, AC, AMS, R3E, and rF2).

In short, the game is on sale. Go for it. Just don't be discouraged by the initial setup. Stick with it, and you will be rewarded. :)

This is what i tried to write .lol

GrimeyDog
06-12-2016, 14:44
This is what i tried to write .lol

Big Dad can you share your Automobilista GPU settings... I have it and i will give another try.... I bought the Full pakage including the Beta when you first sugested it... I Havent played with the settings or played it Much... i been waiting for that Majic update that sorts everything out...LOL.

Haiden
06-12-2016, 15:56
^^Check the edit in my post. You can find the exact Reiza recommended GPU settings there.

morpwr
06-12-2016, 16:07
Its on the steam automobilista page too if you scroll down. Its also in the instructions if you open it.Now if I could just figure out the mapping...

Haiden
06-12-2016, 16:46
Its on the steam automobilista page too if you scroll down. Its also in the instructions if you open it.Now if I could just figure out the mapping...

Those settings look a little different from the one I found starting the game through steam. The guide you access via Steam is more of a full guide, with a section on graphics that covers Nvidia. They might have some of the same info, but the one you access when you start the game through Steam seemed to have more info in it to me.

What's the issue you're having with the mapping? I honestly didn't find it to be any different than any other sim I setup. Not sure why it's giving you trouble. Are you having trouble mapping the wheels or the pedals? If it's the pedals, just for troubleshooting sake... have you tried mapping your TM pedals? That would tell you if it's a hardware compatibility problem.

morpwr
06-12-2016, 19:30
Its bizarre. I cant map anything. My brake and clutch show but as steering and gas. If I click on what I want to map under controls then hit space bar to replace it all it does is replace it with a already used joy position. My pedals and wheel do nothing. Cant be a issue with the pedals the guy that makes my pedals is the physics lead for automobilista and they use it at their shop.

Haiden
06-12-2016, 20:14
Its bizarre. I cant map anything. My brake and clutch show but as steering and gas. If I click on what I want to map under controls then hit space bar to replace it all it does is replace it with a already used joy position. My pedals and wheel do nothing. Cant be a issue with the pedals the guy that makes my pedals is the physics lead for automobilista and they use it at their shop.

That sounds logical, but, if I were you, I'd just plug the other pedals in to see if they register. You don't have to mount them, just test to see if they are picked up. Are you turning the wheel to full lock--left and right? Until the wheel is actually mapped to a control, the catch point (where the turning registers as a button click) can be pretty far for some wheels. Once it's mapped, it reads the rotation from the center point, but until then, there's a huge deadzone from TDC to the catch point.

If that all fails, I'd say, maybe do a reinstall. Because that's really strange. I had zero problems with the mapping. Have you asked in the Steam forums? If someone else had the issue, they might be able to help.

Also, what happens if you try to remap the brake and clutch to some other keyboard control? Does it still double map them?

morpwr
06-12-2016, 21:33
That sounds logical, but, if I were you, I'd just plug the other pedals in to see if they register. You don't have to mount them, just test to see if they are picked up. Are you turning the wheel to full lock--left and right? Until the wheel is actually mapped to a control, the catch point (where the turning registers as a button click) can be pretty far for some wheels. Once it's mapped, it reads the rotation from the center point, but until then, there's a huge deadzone from TDC to the catch point.

If that all fails, I'd say, maybe do a reinstall. Because that's really strange. I had zero problems with the mapping. Have you asked in the Steam forums? If someone else had the issue, they might be able to help.

Also, what happens if you try to remap the brake and clutch to some other keyboard control? Does it still double map them?

I reinstalled them both yesterday Thought maybe it was stuck on my old profile for whatever reason. Yeah I tried turning the wheel too. My pedals do show them moving so it is seeing them just in the wrong spots. It just never gives me the option to pick what I want it just keeps trying to assign the same things from another postion. I am doing it right right? Click on what you want to map hit space should open up the spot so I can assign what I want. I don't get it every other game took 2 minutes to get working. I did have my wheel and old pedals working before but haven't tried the pedals again yet.

Haiden
06-12-2016, 21:58
I reinstalled them both yesterday Thought maybe it was stuck on my old profile for whatever reason. Yeah I tried turning the wheel too. My pedals do show them moving so it is seeing them just in the wrong spots. It just never gives me the option to pick what I want it just keeps trying to assign the same things from another postion. I am doing it right right? Click on what you want to map hit space should open up the spot so I can assign what I want. I don't get it every other game took 2 minutes to get working. I did have my wheel and old pedals working before but haven't tried the pedals again yet.

This might be the way you typed it that order isn't correct. You click on what you want. Then press the button or pedal you want to assign to that space, and then you get the option to reassign it [Space] or double assign it [Enter], but the reassign option, only appears if the option is already mapped.

You really need to try the old pedals again to rule hardware out. Otherwise, you could be wasting time focusing on the wrong issue. You don't have to mount them. Just plug them in.

BigDad
06-12-2016, 22:47
Big Dad can you share your Automobilista GPU settings... I have it and i will give another try.... I bought the Full pakage including the Beta when you first sugested it... I Havent played with the settings or played it Much... i been waiting for that Majic update that sorts everything out...LOL.

Hey Mate , Sure .
You need nVidia Inspector and you need to set SparseGrid AA to as much as your GPU(s) can handle in the AA Transparency Supersampling . Mine is x4 but with two 1070's you might hit x8 and in the Antialiasing settings set to x8 Multisampling. Now i set v-sync on in the GPU rather than the game as this give a lot more stable 59.9fps . Setting it on in game and it seems to fluctuate a little . In game i just max everything including AA , i find that even though i force AA in Inspector if i turn it off in game there is still Aliasing . I'm still trying to get good SweetFX settings but i find with the presets not much difference .
SparseGrid is the key but is really power hungry.
Hope this helps .

BigDad
06-12-2016, 22:55
I reinstalled them both yesterday Thought maybe it was stuck on my old profile for whatever reason. Yeah I tried turning the wheel too. My pedals do show them moving so it is seeing them just in the wrong spots. It just never gives me the option to pick what I want it just keeps trying to assign the same things from another postion. I am doing it right right? Click on what you want to map hit space should open up the spot so I can assign what I want. I don't get it every other game took 2 minutes to get working. I did have my wheel and old pedals working before but haven't tried the pedals again yet.

Hit Neils up on the Reiza forum , He is the Physics Guy and He uses those pedals .If anyone can help it will be Him .

morpwr
07-12-2016, 00:46
Hit Neils up on the Reiza forum , He is the Physics Guy and He uses those pedals .If anyone can help it will be Him .

I would hope he uses them.lol He makes them. I have been talking with one of the guys there at heusinkveld seeing I just got my pedals and they are trying to figure it out. Really helpful people. I wouldn't hesitate to buy anything from them.I did try my old pedals and it worked perfect. I'm starting to think its something with the combination of the t300 and He pedals being separate. Most other games recognize both separately or it says something like t300 custom. Pcars,r3e,ac,rfactor2 all work. Its probably just one setting somewhere screwing me.lol

morpwr
07-12-2016, 00:58
I was just thinking about the pcars forum. It really has turned out to be a great place. We can bust each others balls,have differences in opinion but in the end most of us are always there to lend a hand when someone has a problem. There aren't many others like that. You don't see many on here putting people down for not knowing something like you do on a lot of other forums. What might seem simple to some might not be so easy for someone else. Great job guys!

Dan77 DESTROYER
07-12-2016, 01:12
I was just thinking about the pcars forum. It really has turned out to be a great place. We can bust each others balls,have differences in opinion but in the end most of us are always there to lend a hand when someone has a problem. There aren't many others like that. You don't see many on here putting people down for not knowing something like you do on a lot of other forums. What might seem simple to some might not be so easy for someone else. Great job guys!

Agree, this isn't too bad as forums go,
What the pedals like that you guys are talking about? I still have my stock tx pedals but considering upgrading if it's worth doing

morpwr
07-12-2016, 01:45
Agree, this isn't too bad as forums go,
What the pedals like that you guys are talking about? I still have my stock tx pedals but considering upgrading if it's worth doing

Heusinkveld pros. Very nice pieces especially considering what they cost compared to some comparable high end pedals. If you still have the stock pedals it will be a HUGE upgrade. But you will need a pretty solid rig as they will need realistic pedal pressure on the brake. Even my gt omega rig has a little flex with them. Nothing I cant live with but its there. I did a little write up on them in the lets talk ffb forum not too long ago when I got them if you want to know more about them.

Roger Prynne
07-12-2016, 11:28
I was just thinking about the pcars forum. It really has turned out to be a great place. We can bust each others balls,have differences in opinion but in the end most of us are always there to lend a hand when someone has a problem. There aren't many others like that. You don't see many on here putting people down for not knowing something like you do on a lot of other forums. What might seem simple to some might not be so easy for someone else. Great job guys!

It's taken a while though, but now that we have weeded out the trouble makers etc, it's a much better place to be.

BigDad
07-12-2016, 12:11
It's taken a while though, but now that we have weeded out the trouble makers etc, it's a much better place to be.

Umm, i'm still here ,







lol

Roger Prynne
07-12-2016, 14:58
^ Yeah when you're gone it'll be perfect.... :smug:

GrimeyDog
07-12-2016, 16:50
That internet thug and Cyber Bully
keeps Bothering Me:cower:

Fanapryde
07-12-2016, 22:21
Heusinkveld pros. Very nice pieces especially considering what they cost compared to some comparable high end pedals. If you still have the stock pedals it will be a HUGE upgrade. But you will need a pretty solid rig as they will need realistic pedal pressure on the brake. Even my gt omega rig has a little flex with them. Nothing I cant live with but its there. I did a little write up on them in the lets talk ffb forum not too long ago when I got them if you want to know more about them.
I upgraded to a Sim-Lab P1 rig (huge 80/20 profiles), because my HE Pro pedals made my Simetik K2 pedal plate flex. Not much, but enough to bother me.
Got the pedals working in AMS after several tries. A lot of other things don't work (yet) in AMS, issues with triple setup, flickering side screens while in menu, stuttering, crashing. But when it is working, the ride is OK, very good feel of the cars.
Got to say the pCars forum and his moderators are A LOT more helpful than the Reiza forum :confused:
Posted several times about the issues and the only help was from a guy who was also new on the forum.

Haiden
07-12-2016, 23:18
I upgraded to a Sim-Lab P1 rig (huge 80/20 profiles), because my HE Pro pedals made my Simetik K2 pedal plate flex. Not much, but enough to bother me.
Got the pedals working in AMS after several tries. A lot of other things don't work (yet) in AMS, issues with triple setup, flickering side screens while in menu, stuttering, crashing. But when it is working, the ride is OK, very good feel of the cars.
Got to say the pCars forum and his moderators are A LOT more helpful than the Reiza forum :confused:
Posted several times about the issues and the only help was from a guy who was also new on the forum.

I found the SteamCommunity forums more helpful in terms of response. The Reiza forums are only helpful if you the answer is already there. I got a response today from a question I asked over a week ago. I had to click through to read my original question, because I had totally forgotten...LOL

GrimeyDog
08-12-2016, 00:42
I just finished Running a Few laps on AMS.... While the FFB is really Good with No Tweeking im not Noticing a night and day feel difference in the FFB Feel between Pcars and AMS... They feel very Much the same.

The side bar effect of testing AMS, RF2 has really convinced Me that My current TF/RAC 75 tweek is 100% as it should be because all 3 games feel very Much the same including Road feel and Wheel weight... Pcars has more weight transfer feel...in a good more informative way... but that's only a few - clicks on Fz and SOP Lat to ajust how much weight transfer feel you like in Pcars.

morpwr
08-12-2016, 01:13
I upgraded to a Sim-Lab P1 rig (huge 80/20 profiles), because my HE Pro pedals made my Simetik K2 pedal plate flex. Not much, but enough to bother me.
Got the pedals working in AMS after several tries. A lot of other things don't work (yet) in AMS, issues with triple setup, flickering side screens while in menu, stuttering, crashing. But when it is working, the ride is OK, very good feel of the cars.
Got to say the pCars forum and his moderators are A LOT more helpful than the Reiza forum :confused:
Posted several times about the issues and the only help was from a guy who was also new on the forum.

How did you get them to work because at this point we had to get neils involved. They haven't seen this issue before. But yes you need a solid rig for these. I'm in the same boat now with my gt omega and flexing. I don't even set them to use the maximum force they could. Nothing I cant live with for now with them mounted inverted because an accuforce wheel is next. Then ill probably go 80/20.

morpwr
08-12-2016, 01:19
I found the SteamCommunity forums more helpful in terms of response. The Reiza forums are only helpful if you the answer is already there. I got a response today from a question I asked over a week ago. I had to click through to read my original question, because I had totally forgotten...LOL

Its not like here. A lot of the replies ive seen are just people putting someone down for not knowing something. Not saying they are all like that but id say more then 50 percent are. The search engines on a lot of these forums suck too.

GrimeyDog
08-12-2016, 01:58
Its not like here. A lot of the replies ive seen are just people putting someone down for not knowing something. Not saying they are all like that but id say more then 50 percent are. The search engines on a lot of these forums suck too.

Don't forget the 1's that have No Respect for individuality...they get Mad at you for doing your own thing because they don't like it or have a different point of view...What ever happend to if the shoe fits wear it if not leave it alone.

Haiden
08-12-2016, 03:15
Its not like here. A lot of the replies ive seen are just people putting someone down for not knowing something. Not saying they are all like that but id say more then 50 percent are. The search engines on a lot of these forums suck too.

Stick and stones, man...LOL. As long as you get the answer to your problem, who cares? Just ignore the idiots. :)

BigDad
08-12-2016, 05:04
I found the SteamCommunity forums more helpful in terms of response. The Reiza forums are only helpful if you the answer is already there. I got a response today from a question I asked over a week ago. I had to click through to read my original question, because I had totally forgotten...LOL

I've had lot of questions trying to get the most out of AMS and the help i go/get from the Reiza Forum was outstanding . i've had the Mods make files to get specific tracks to work and members of the forum go out of their way helping me . So for i can't fault them .

BigDad
08-12-2016, 05:05
^ Yeah when you're gone it'll be perfect.... :smug:

The only way you'll get rid of me is BANHAMMER. lol

Fanapryde
08-12-2016, 06:39
I've had lot of questions trying to get the most out of AMS and the help i go/get from the Reiza Forum was outstanding . i've had the Mods make files to get specific tracks to work and members of the forum go out of their way helping me . So for i can't fault them .
Good for you, did you have to bribe them ?

BigDad
08-12-2016, 10:29
Good for you, did you have to bribe them ?

That goes without saying . They dont call me BigGag for nothing .

morpwr
08-12-2016, 10:43
Stick and stones, man...LOL. As long as you get the answer to your problem, who cares? Just ignore the idiots. :)

I get that. Its just annoying and turns people away.

Haiden
08-12-2016, 11:34
I get that. Its just annoying and turns people away.

I don't really notice it that much. Like the AMS threads I've been spending time in lately. All I see are people asking questions and getting answers. Sure, some of the answers are curt or ooze a little of that chest-beating bravdo that is pretty common in the sim community. But I wouldn't categorize it as being over the top or a particularly hostile place. Not disagree with you, just saying I've had a different experience.

TBH, I think it only seems quieter and more peaceful here, because the Steam forums get way more traffic than this forum does and from a wider range of people. At this point, the majority of people here are die-hard fans of the game. Not the case on Steam.

John Hargreaves
08-12-2016, 11:43
We do like to think we are a better class of troll around here, no riff raff :rolleyes::rolleyes:

morpwr
08-12-2016, 11:50
I don't really notice it that much. Like the AMS threads I've been spending time in lately. All I see are people asking questions and getting answers. Sure, some of the answers are curt or ooze a little of that chest-beating bravdo that is pretty common in the sim community. But I wouldn't categorize it as being over the top or a particularly hostile place. Not disagree with you, just saying I've had a different experience.

TBH, I think it only seems quieter and more peaceful here, because the Steam forums get way more traffic than this forum does and from a wider range of people. At this point, the majority of people here are die-hard fans of the game. Not the case on Steam.

That could be why and to be fair this place wasn't much different in the beginning. I just wish more people would follow the if you don't have anything good to say don't say anything rule.lol The other thing is you don't know who your talking to. I just saw a post where someone let a guy race because he was so fast. Turns out it was an 11 year old. I'm not going to get my feelings hurt but like I said you don't know.

morpwr
08-12-2016, 11:57
Good for you, did you have to bribe them ?

So what did you do to get your pedals working?

Haiden
08-12-2016, 12:55
I upgraded to a Sim-Lab P1 rig (huge 80/20 profiles), because my HE Pro pedals made my Simetik K2 pedal plate flex. Not much, but enough to bother me.
Got the pedals working in AMS after several tries. A lot of other things don't work (yet) in AMS, issues with triple setup, flickering side screens while in menu, stuttering, crashing. But when it is working, the ride is OK, very good feel of the cars.
Got to say the pCars forum and his moderators are A LOT more helpful than the Reiza forum :confused:
Posted several times about the issues and the only help was from a guy who was also new on the forum.

Dude, that's a nice look rig. I have to figure out what I'm doing with my GT Omega Art before I add triple screens next year. I like the rig, but the pedal deck has some flex. It's basically the same problem as the Simetik--the upper support bar is in a bad place, too low on the deck. It's okay now, but eventually, I'll upgrade the V3s for something stronger, and then it will be a problem.

Let me know what you think of the Sim-Lab when you get it setup. :)

Fanapryde
08-12-2016, 19:44
So what did you do to get your pedals working? like with a lot of things on AMS, I kept trying and in the end it worked. Can't tell you what the exact issue was, but suddenly it was gone. Pedals work fine (after calibrating them in Diview that is...
Related: the flickering white/grey side screens are suddenly gone too, now they are black/grey, still flickering. I did not change one thing to achieve that. Very weird sim...:confused:

Fanapryde
08-12-2016, 19:50
Dude, that's a nice look rig. I have to figure out what I'm doing with my GT Omega Art before I add triple screens next year. I like the rig, but the pedal deck has some flex. It's basically the same problem as the Simetik--the upper support bar is in a bad place, too low on the deck. It's okay now, but eventually, I'll upgrade the V3s for something stronger, and then it will be a problem.

Let me know what you think of the Sim-Lab when you get it setup. :)
It is really nice and unbelievably strong/sturdy. Does not move, bend or shakes, whatever you throw at it. I was a little sceptical about using the triple screen brackets (attached to the chassis) but the triples don't move either.
I'm using it for several weeks now, have not found one weak point.
It is my fourth rig but I will never need another one, can't really see a way to improve it as it is now.

Haiden
08-12-2016, 19:55
It is really nice and unbelievably strong/sturdy. Does not move, bend or shakes, whatever you throw at it. I was a little sceptical about using the triple screen brackets (attached to the chassis) but the triples don't move either.
I'm using it for several weeks now, have not found one weak point.
It is my fourth rig but I will never need another one, can't really see a way to improve it as it is now.

Nice. I'm going to look into that open, assuming they ship to the states. I like the way the wheel base mounts to it. It looked a little strange at first, but then I saw the pics of the V2 mounted on one, and now I get it. :)

Did you have to buy the VESA mounts for the screens separately?

Fanapryde
08-12-2016, 20:03
Nice. I'm going to look into that open, assuming they ship to the states. I like the way the wheel base mounts to it. It looked a little strange at first, but then I saw the pics of the V2 mounted on one, and now I get it. :)

Did you have to buy the VESA mounts for the screens separately?
That wheel bracket is top notch. For the V2 it comes with four spacers, because of the protruding bolts on the front of the base. The bracket is mounted on two supports which can be angle adjusted.
The triple screen brackets also come with the extra profiles, corner brackets and VESA plates (and lots of nuts and bolts in different sizes and lengths.
All sliding nuts are equipped with a small steel ball and spring, so it does not move around while building the thing. It was rather fun building it too.

About shipment: the rig comes in seperate packages, because of the weight and lenght and origin. Richard makes all brackets, profiles were send from German manufacturer.
Sim-Lab ships to Australia, so I guess the US will not be left out...;)

Haiden
08-12-2016, 22:00
That wheel bracket is top notch. For the V2 it comes with four spacers, because of the protruding bolts on the front of the base. The bracket is mounted on two supports which can be angle adjusted.
The triple screen brackets also come with the extra profiles, corner brackets and VESA plates (and lots of nuts and bolts in different sizes and lengths.
All sliding nuts are equipped with a small steel ball and spring, so it does not move around while building the thing. It was rather fun building it too.

About shipment: the rig comes in seperate packages, because of the weight and lenght and origin. Richard makes all brackets, profiles were send from German manufacturer.
Sim-Lab ships to Australia, so I guess the US will not be left out...;)

Man you just made my day. And this rig just jumped to the top of my list. :)

I assume from the pics, that arch that supports the wheel mount can be adjusted forward and backward, horizontally along the rig's base rails? I'm just looking at the picks.

Fanapryde
08-12-2016, 22:28
Man you just made my day. And this rig just jumped to the top of my list. :)

I assume from the pics, that arch that supports the wheel mount can be adjusted forward and backward, horizontally along the rig's base rails? I'm just looking at the picks.

You are right. The two vertical profiles that hold the wheel bracket can be moved forward or backward, as can the pedal plate.

Haiden
08-12-2016, 23:33
You are right. The two vertical profiles that hold the wheel bracket can be moved forward or backward, as can the pedal plate.

Sweet! Thanks for the pics.

morpwr
08-12-2016, 23:34
Nice. I'm going to look into that open, assuming they ship to the states. I like the way the wheel base mounts to it. It looked a little strange at first, but then I saw the pics of the V2 mounted on one, and now I get it. :)

Did you have to buy the VESA mounts for the screens separately?

If you google it there are a bunch of companies that sell them and they are all pretty similar. Most of the 80/20 stuff can be bought and kits are really just saving you figuring out how long and what pieces you need. Except for the custom brackets we need for seats,wheels,shifter,etc. and from what ive seen most of the companies will sell you just the brackets if you wanted to go that route. If you decided to build it yourself some of the companies selling 80/20 materials will even cut it for you. Heusinkveld has a similar kit also.

Haiden
09-12-2016, 03:55
If you google it there are a bunch of companies that sell them and they are all pretty similar. Most of the 80/20 stuff can be bought and kits are really just saving you figuring out how long and what pieces you need. Except for the custom brackets we need for seats,wheels,shifter,etc. and from what ive seen most of the companies will sell you just the brackets if you wanted to go that route. If you decided to build it yourself some of the companies selling 80/20 materials will even cut it for you. Heusinkveld has a similar kit also.

Yeah...I've been considering the a few different rigs, but the 80/20 rigs have always seemed like the sturdiest and most scalable solution. A kit would definitely be the way to go for me, because I'm not going to have the time or desire to plan, measure, and cut one from scratch. Something like that, would take care of everything I need.

morpwr
09-12-2016, 10:56
I wish I had known about those before getting the gt omega but like most hobbies your need grow and change. Ive looked into kits and diy. There is some cost savings but in the end I'm not sure how much or if its even worth the aggravation. You can find pretty much anything you can think of for 80/20. Wheels,bracket,etc. Just make sure you check the shipping cost if coming from overseas. It cost me 85 just to ship my pedals. Not a huge deal but it could add quite a bit to the cost on something that big.

Havent heard anything on the pedal problem. Hopefully ill hear something today and get to play automobilista this weekend.

GrimeyDog
09-12-2016, 12:47
I wish I had known about those before getting the gt omega but like most hobbies your need grow and change. Ive looked into kits and diy. There is some cost savings but in the end I'm not sure how much or if its even worth the aggravation. You can find pretty much anything you can think of for 80/20. Wheels,bracket,etc. Just make sure you check the shipping cost if coming from overseas. It cost me 85 just to ship my pedals. Not a huge deal but it could add quite a bit to the cost on something that big.

Havent heard anything on the pedal problem. Hopefully ill hear something today and get to play automobilista this weekend.

Agree 100% the shipping Cost definitly Factor into the decision of what to buy... Thats why i went with the RS1 and not the Obutto Revolution.... I dunno how it was Possible but it ships from Bulgaria and the Shiooing cost was only $60.00 and it only took 5 days to arrive!!! the Obutto Shipping was almost $200.00!!! No way was i paying that... Id rather invest that $140.00 in extra Rig add ons or Equipment.

I was going to do the 80/20 but was Scared off by all the Extra Cost that i might incure to get a complete Rig.... I think the site i was looking at was a Scam because they were advertising 80/20 Strarter Rig plans for $500.00 but by the time you get a finished Rig it was like $1,500+ they didnt even have all the parts but listed websites to buy them from...i tbik it was a scam site.

Next Rig is either a 80/20 rig or the Rseat N1.

Haiden
09-12-2016, 13:51
I wish I had known about those before getting the gt omega but like most hobbies your need grow and change. Ive looked into kits and diy. There is some cost savings but in the end I'm not sure how much or if its even worth the aggravation. You can find pretty much anything you can think of for 80/20. Wheels,bracket,etc. Just make sure you check the shipping cost if coming from overseas. It cost me 85 just to ship my pedals. Not a huge deal but it could add quite a bit to the cost on something that big.

Havent heard anything on the pedal problem. Hopefully ill hear something today and get to play automobilista this weekend.

Same. You never know where it's going to lead. At the time, I was trying to keep everything as compact and mobile as possible. The GT Omega Art had a small footprint and casters, so you would roll it out of the way. The collapsing/shrinkable base rails is a plus, too. I thought I'd be racing in the living room, like I've always been, using my home theater's surround sound. But I've since taken to using headphones over the theater speakers, because it's way more immersive, and I'm going to move the rig into the spare room next year, so mobility isn't an issue. I'm like you though, I don't have a lot of time to futz around researching, planning, and rebuilding a rig systems someone else has already spec'd and built. Even if it was a few hundred cheaper to DIY, you have to consider your own time and how much that's worth to you. I'd rather pay a little extra and then spend that time doing something else. :)

But, now that I know a lot more than I did a couple years ago when this journey started, I think the 80/20 is the way to go. Infinitely scalable, and you are limited to one supplier. The real question is, what will I do with the Art rig? :)

Let me know if/when you get the peddle issue sorted. TBH, that's my biggest hang up with going any higher than Fanatec. Whether it's Accufoce, OSW, Bodnar, or Heusinkveld, they are basically niche products in what's already considered a niche genre. And while their customer service may be top notch, the fact remains that they don't get the same in-game support as the other consumer wheels, which is fine for the manufacturers, because their primary markets aren't really people looking to play the latest and greatest sim as soon as it comes out. Most of the high-end buyers are more purpose driven or rooted in one or two sim titles. Yes, there are exceptions and regular consumers do buy them, but I think that's a smaller portion of their customer base. Some of those manufacturers don't even mention hobby use, and just market to professional drivers and teams. IDK... I know myself, and I'm not a very patient person when it comes to things like that. I just want things to work. And the more I pay for something, the stronger that desire is and the more frustrated I become when it doesn't. :confused:

morpwr
09-12-2016, 14:36
Same. You never know where it's going to lead. At the time, I was trying to keep everything as compact and mobile as possible. The GT Omega Art had a small footprint and casters, so you would roll it out of the way. The collapsing/shrinkable base rails is a plus, too. I thought I'd be racing in the living room, like I've always been, using my home theater's surround sound. But I've since taken to using headphones over the theater speakers, because it's way more immersive, and I'm going to move the rig into the spare room next year, so mobility isn't an issue. I'm like you though, I don't have a lot of time to futz around researching, planning, and rebuilding a rig systems someone else has already spec'd and built. Even if it was a few hundred cheaper to DIY, you have to consider your own time and how much that's worth to you. I'd rather pay a little extra and then spend that time doing something else. :)

But, now that I know a lot more than I did a couple years ago when this journey started, I think the 80/20 is the way to go. Infinitely scalable, and you are limited to one supplier. The real question is, what will I do with the Art rig? :)

Let me know if/when you get the peddle issue sorted. TBH, that's my biggest hang up with going any higher than Fanatec. Whether it's Accufoce, OSW, Bodnar, or Heusinkveld, they are basically niche products in what's already considered a niche genre. And while their customer service may be top notch, the fact remains that they don't get the same in-game support as the other consumer wheels, which is fine for the manufacturers, because their primary markets aren't really people looking to play the latest and greatest sim as soon as it comes out. Most of the high-end buyers are more purpose driven or rooted in one or two sim titles. Yes, there are exceptions and regular consumers do buy them, but I think that's a smaller portion of their customer base. Some of those manufacturers don't even mention hobby use, and just market to professional drivers and teams. IDK... I know myself, and I'm not a very patient person when it comes to things like that. I just want things to work. And the more I pay for something, the stronger that desire is and the more frustrated I become when it doesn't. :confused:

I hear you on the patience part. I will say ive gotten better as I got older but id say I'm more like you. It helps when the company has gone above and beyond what I expected this to go like though. I figured id get the usual weve never had an issue and that would be the end of it. But I have gotten an email just about every day from them so that helps.

GrimeyDog
09-12-2016, 14:39
^^^Agree... When i pay top $$$ for a Top Tier Product i just want it to work!!!

Morpwer Its probably something simple... Maybe a FW update for the Pedals... Have you searched the forums/internet for a FW/Plug in that you can use to Emulate Naturally supported hardware for the games they dont work in.... EX: Older Fanatec wheels work off Logitec Drivers with PS3... Maybe you can use a Emulator to get hybred support for the pedals.

Maybe even join Iracing for 1 month $9.99 and brows their forums looking for a solution... I believe IRacing Naturally supports those pedals...alot of people on IRacing use the Higher end pedal sets... you will probably get a Quick answer in their forum... They are usually Quick to Help New Comers... They are always trying to Grow the IRacing Community.

FWIW... I signed up fir the 3mos of IRacing $19.99... but Pcars is just better in every way IMO.... IRacing does have a Nice Track Selection though

Haiden
09-12-2016, 14:45
I hear you on the patience part. I will say ive gotten better as I got older but id say I'm more like you. It helps when the company has gone above and beyond what I expected this to go like though. I figured id get the usual weve never had an issue and that would be the end of it. But I have gotten an email just about every day from them so that helps.

That's key right there. It's always great to be surprised. Disappointment suck and only worsens the frustration. I had a similar experience with Fanatec. The rear exhaust fan stopped working on my base. I'd heard mix stories about their support team. One email/service ticket, which included a video showing the fan not working, and they responded the next day asking me if I wanted to ship it back or if I'd like to install the replacement fan myself. The installation instructions were simple so I went with the latter. But their quick response was unexpected, and that immediately eased the building frustration.

morpwr
09-12-2016, 14:50
^^^Agree... When i pay top $$$ for a Top Tier Product i just want it to work!!!

Morpwer Its probably something simple... Maybe a FW update for the Pedals... Have you searched the forums/internet for a FW/Plug in that you can use to Emulate Naturally supported hardware for the games they dont work in.... EX: Older Fanatec wheels work off Logitec Drivers with PS3... Maybe you can use a Emulator to get hybred support for the pedals.

Thing is they should work. Niels heusinkveld is also automobilistas head physics guy and they use both at the shop. Obviously they are using dd wheels but the only game I cant get them to work in is automobilista oddly enough. I'm really starting to think its some weird issue with the game itself. Probably change one thing somewhere and everything will be fine. If i unplug my wheel they work. But with the wheel,pedals keyboard plugged in they cant be assigned and even my escape button gets funky. Frustrating. Its like the game is seeing everything as the same thing.

Haiden
09-12-2016, 15:44
Thing is they should work. Niels heusinkveld is also automobilistas head physics guy and they use both at the shop. Obviously they are using dd wheels but the only game I cant get them to work in is automobilista oddly enough. I'm really starting to think its some weird issue with the game itself. Probably change one thing somewhere and everything will be fine. If i unplug my wheel they work. But with the wheel,pedals keyboard plugged in they cant be assigned and even my escape button gets funky. Frustrating. Its like the game is seeing everything as the same thing.

Hmm... this might sound slight/trivial, but have you tried connected the pedals to a different USB port?

Oh, also... if you haven't already tried. You might want to uninstall and then reinstall your TM driver control panel. You said they work when you unplug your wheel. Your wheel might have paired itself to the pedals somehow. And when you plug it in, it's conflicting with the new pedals. If you haven't already don't that, give it a shot. Actually, first check the control panel to make sure it isn't something easy like checking a box to drop the pedals...LOL. If not, the uninstall the TM drivers completely, and then reinstall them with only the wheel base connected.

morpwr
09-12-2016, 17:44
Hmm... this might sound slight/trivial, but have you tried connected the pedals to a different USB port?

Oh, also... if you haven't already tried. You might want to uninstall and then reinstall your TM driver control panel. You said they work when you unplug your wheel. Your wheel might have paired itself to the pedals somehow. And when you plug it in, it's conflicting with the new pedals. If you haven't already don't that, give it a shot. Actually, first check the control panel to make sure it isn't something easy like checking a box to drop the pedals...LOL. If not, the uninstall the TM drivers completely, and then reinstall them with only the wheel base connected.

You know that might be a good idea because it does recognize the he pedals in the tm control panel. I wonder if for whatever reason automobilista wont override the old pedals like the other games do. There is a box to check and uncheck too if I remember right.hmmm

Haiden
09-12-2016, 18:09
You know that might be a good idea because it does recognize the he pedals in the tm control panel. I wonder if for whatever reason automobilista wont override the old pedals like the other games do. There is a box to check and uncheck too if I remember right.hmmm

Yeah... if the CP is showing pedals when they aren't actually connected, then could be a problem. When I had my pedals running through the base, they wouldn't show if they were disconnected.

morpwr
09-12-2016, 21:14
Yeah... if the CP is showing pedals when they aren't actually connected, then could be a problem. When I had my pedals running through the base, they wouldn't show if they were disconnected.

I did try different usb ports too. That was one of the first things I tried.

morpwr
10-12-2016, 14:22
Yeah... if the CP is showing pedals when they aren't actually connected, then could be a problem. When I had my pedals running through the base, they wouldn't show if they were disconnected.

Well after 3 hours of trying stuff its still a no go. I tried reinstalling the driver for the wheel,plugging in every combination of usb ports I could think of in case it will only recognize a certain port, p,lugging the pedals then the wheel,the wheel then the pedals,removing my profile from the file in case it was stuck on the old one.Its definitely something weird going on with the game or combination of stuff. When I try to use the escape button in the game it doesn't work right either when everything is plugged in. When it gives you the option to use the space bar or hit esc to try again escape doesn't work. They are sending me a different module to see if that works but I really think its something with the game itself because every other game works fine.

Haiden
10-12-2016, 14:59
Well after 3 hours of trying stuff its still a no go. I tried reinstalling the driver for the wheel,plugging in every combination of usb ports I could think of in case it will only recognize a certain port, p,lugging the pedals then the wheel,the wheel then the pedals,removing my profile from the file in case it was stuck on the old one.Its definitely something weird going on with the game or combination of stuff. When I try to use the escape button in the game it doesn't work right either when everything is plugged in. When it gives you the option to use the space bar or hit esc to try again escape doesn't work. They are sending me a different module to see if that works but I really think its something with the game itself because every other game works fine.

IDK... I think there's something odd about the fact that they work when the wheel isn't connected. Especially considering that TM pedals don't direct connect and run through the base. Have you asked anyone on the Steam or Reize forums that are using TM wheels with V3 pedals, if they've had problems. There's probably more players with that hardware combo than with TM and Huevinskeld pedals. But since it's a similar config, they might have run into the issue as well.

Also, just to make sure you got the right one. AMS has a bunch of controller files list in the GameData folder. They are listed in there by hardware model, but those files are active. The active controller file is in your Documents/Automobilista/USERDATA folder. Is that the one you replaced? The other files might just be used to write the user file on first run.

morpwr
10-12-2016, 17:27
IDK... I think there's something odd about the fact that they work when the wheel isn't connected. Especially considering that TM pedals don't direct connect and run through the base. Have you asked anyone on the Steam or Reize forums that are using TM wheels with V3 pedals, if they've had problems. There's probably more players with that hardware combo than with TM and Huevinskeld pedals. But since it's a similar config, they might have run into the issue as well.

Also, just to make sure you got the right one. AMS has a bunch of controller files list in the GameData folder. They are listed in there by hardware model, but those files are active. The active controller file is in your Documents/Automobilista/USERDATA folder. Is that the one you replaced? The other files might just be used to write the user file on first run.

No my profile. I know you mentioned it shows what controller youre using but I have not been able to find that at all. I wonder if that's the issue. Anyway you could show me what your looking at so I know if its missing? It shouldnt be ive validated the game twice and reloaded it but who knows. Is there a way to start fresh on steam because it saves your previous settings even if you delete the game and reload it right?

Haiden
10-12-2016, 17:58
I'm pretty sure that's the file path.

My Documents/Automobilista/USERDATA/

The file name is whatever shows in the controller selector in the game, over on the left side of the screen where you save, load, and delete profiles. It's right under those buttons. But anyway, I'm pretty sure you'll know the file when you see it. It's a .ini file. If you've created multiple controller profiles in game, there will be more than one of them. I'll double check the path when I get to my rig. If it's different, I'll let you know.

Edit: You know... it might be worth a try. Because now that I think about it, there are LOT of joystick settings in that file that might be bindings. But the thing, I don't recall seeing, is anything mention of a specific piece of hardware. So if the file is being created selected from one of those hardware specific template files you find in the installation folder, then maybe it's using a TM template for your pedals.

Or maybe not. I honestly don't know, but it's worth it shot. If you open the .ini files and scroll down, you'll see the joystick/wheel button settings. I don't think this file would be verified by steam, because it's in your My Documents folder. If the file doesn't exist, the game would just create another one. The only files that need to be verified are the hardware specific controller templates in the installation folder. So delete the controller files in your My Documents folder, and then restart the game with your wheel and new pedals connected. Hopefully, it will rebuild the controller file with the correct button values for your pedals.

morpwr
10-12-2016, 18:38
I'm pretty sure that's the file path.

My Documents/Automobilista/USERDATA/

The file name is whatever shows in the controller selector in the game, over on the left side of the screen where you save, load, and delete profiles. It's right under those buttons. But anyway, I'm pretty sure you'll know the file when you see it. It's a .ini file. If you've created multiple controller profiles in game, there will be more than one of them. I'll double check the path when I get to my rig. If it's different, I'll let you know.

Edit: You know... it might be worth a try. Because now that I think about it, there are LOT of joystick settings in that file that might be bindings. But the thing, I don't recall seeing, is anything mention of a specific piece of hardware. So if the file is being created selected from one of those hardware specific template files you find in the installation folder, then maybe it's using a TM template for your pedals.

Or maybe not. I honestly don't know, but it's worth it shot. If you open the .ini files and scroll down, you'll see the joystick/wheel button settings. I don't think this file would be verified by steam, because it's in your My Documents folder. If the file doesn't exist, the game would just create another one. The only files that need to be verified are the hardware specific controller templates in the installation folder. So delete the controller files in your My Documents folder, and then restart the game with your wheel and new pedals connected. Hopefully, it will rebuild the controller file with the correct button values for your pedals.

I'm going to try that and see what happens. I honestly don't remember ever seeing a file for the controller setups. Ive seen the list of default controller profiles but don't remember seeing the one I made before.

Haiden
10-12-2016, 20:11
I'm going to try that and see what happens. I honestly don't remember ever seeing a file for the controller setups. Ive seen the list of default controller profiles but don't remember seeing the one I made before.

Here's the path and a screen shot. I named the profile My Fanatec in the game. Can't remember the original name. Might have been My Controller.

My Documents/Automobilista/USERDATA/CONTROLLER

236470

morpwr
10-12-2016, 22:42
Here's the path and a screen shot. I named the profile My Fanatec in the game. Can't remember the original name. Might have been My Controller.

My Documents/Automobilista/USERDATA/CONTROLLER

236470


I definitely have never seen either of those. The guys at the sector 3 forums seemed pretty helpful. They couldn't believe how many dump files I had since the update.lol Had me post some for the devs. Sucks couldn't get on again yesterday. Just checked both automobilistas and both games just show the whole list of wheels in that file. I even tried saving one that had the wheel working and its in the list but not separate like yours.

Fanapryde
10-12-2016, 22:59
All kinds of trouble today in AMS...
Controler profile was gone and most of the controls were mapped to the same Joy1... button.
No way to reassign any of them (option to Enter, Space or Esc did not work).
Tried the standard Fanatec V2 profile...did not work either.
Restarted the PC and game several times and finally I managed to reassign pedals and steering wheel...
I have spend more time trying to get the sim to work properly (still without success) than driving...
It does have some good tracks, even on the graphics side, physics are really good, sound is great, car choice is very poor, as are most interiors.

morpwr
10-12-2016, 23:06
All kinds of trouble today in AMS...
Controler profile was gone and most of the controls were mapped to the same Joy1... button.
No way to reassign any of them (option to Enter, Space or Esc did not work).
Tried the standard Fanatec V2 profile...did not work either.
Restarted the PC and game several times and finally I managed to reassign pedals and steering wheel...
I have spend more time trying to get the sim to work properly (still without success) than driving...
It does have some good tracks, even on the graphics side, physics are really good, sound is great, car choice is very poor, as are most interiors.

At least you can get that far. That's sort of how mine is with the escape button not working right and mapping to the same button.

morpwr
11-12-2016, 00:04
All kinds of trouble today in AMS...
Controler profile was gone and most of the controls were mapped to the same Joy1... button.
No way to reassign any of them (option to Enter, Space or Esc did not work).
Tried the standard Fanatec V2 profile...did not work either.
Restarted the PC and game several times and finally I managed to reassign pedals and steering wheel...
I have spend more time trying to get the sim to work properly (still without success) than driving...
It does have some good tracks, even on the graphics side, physics are really good, sound is great, car choice is very poor, as are most interiors.

Just out of curiosity what kind of keyboard do you have? Seeing youre similar issues with a different wheel but the same pedals.

Fanapryde
11-12-2016, 06:26
Just out of curiosity what kind of keyboard do you have? Seeing youre similar issues with a different wheel but the same pedals.
Logitech K80 illuminated, wireless...
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Illuminated-Keyboard-Computer/dp/B003VAGXWK

morpwr
11-12-2016, 14:38
Logitech K80 illuminated, wireless...
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Illuminated-Keyboard-Computer/dp/B003VAGXWK

I was hoping we had something in common but we have different keyboards. Did you hook up the extra ground wire for the pedals? I did just so I didn't have to do it later. I may try disconnecting that today because it plugs into the extra spots for buttons. I wonder if for some reason its picking that up as an applied button and ignoring the pedals.

Haiden
11-12-2016, 15:29
A few days, the game seemed to reset on it's own. I started remapping stuff, and then realized that, even though the controller profile was showing in the selector, it wasn't actually loaded. I clicked Load and my mappings reappeared. It's strange, because--knock on wood--I haven't had any trouble with AMS. I just wish there was a manual/guide with the paths to all the important ini. files. I've heard you can completely customize the championship mode--tracks, weather, laps, etc--but I can't find the .ini files it loads from. :confused:

I wish you could check it out.

Fanapryde
11-12-2016, 15:36
I was hoping we had something in common but we have different keyboards. Did you hook up the extra ground wire for the pedals? I did just so I didn't have to do it later. I may try disconnecting that today because it plugs into the extra spots for buttons. I wonder if for some reason its picking that up as an applied button and ignoring the pedals.
Nope, no grounding done here. It seems only of use when driving OSW sets.

morpwr
11-12-2016, 15:46
Nope, no grounding done here. It seems only of use when driving OSW sets.

I just put it on knowing I was going accuforce sometime in the near future hopefully. So we have similar issues and nothing common between us.:mad:

Roger Prynne
11-12-2016, 16:49
A few days, the game seemed to reset on it's own. I started remapping stuff, and then realized that, even though the controller profile was showing in the selector, it wasn't actually loaded. I clicked Load and my mappings reappeared. It's strange, because--knock on wood--I haven't had any trouble with AMS. I just wish there was a manual/guide with the paths to all the important ini. files. I've heard you can completely customize the championship mode--tracks, weather, laps, etc--but I can't find the .ini files it loads from. :confused:

I wish you could check it out.

Well a good start would be to check out the .srs files in Automobilista\Series folder first.

morpwr
11-12-2016, 17:08
A few days, the game seemed to reset on it's own. I started remapping stuff, and then realized that, even though the controller profile was showing in the selector, it wasn't actually loaded. I clicked Load and my mappings reappeared. It's strange, because--knock on wood--I haven't had any trouble with AMS. I just wish there was a manual/guide with the paths to all the important ini. files. I've heard you can completely customize the championship mode--tracks, weather, laps, etc--but I can't find the .ini files it loads from. :confused:

I wish you could check it out.

Ok figured out the issue finally. For some reason the extra ground wire they include to stabilize the values with dd wheels was causing the issue. Unplugged it and everything mapped perfect.:) Don't know what made me think of that this morning but it worked so I'm happy. So what do I need to adjust in the game I'm running on 360pure for the ffb setting now and it seems pretty good.

Fanapryde
11-12-2016, 17:49
So we have similar issues and nothing common between us.:mad:
Yes we have ..... AMS... :encouragement:

Good to hear the grounding could be an issue. Wonder what caused the issues I had ?

morpwr
11-12-2016, 18:22
Yes we have ..... AMS... :encouragement:

Good to hear the grounding could be an issue. Wonder what caused the issues I had ?

lol Very true.... I don't understand why it didn't cause issues in any other game though. One thing you might want to look at too is the jamb nuts on the pedals. I had them loosen up once and change the calibration which could cause issues.

Haiden
11-12-2016, 18:40
Ok figured out the issue finally. For some reason the extra ground wire they include to stabilize the values with dd wheels was causing the issue. Unplugged it and everything mapped perfect.:) Don't know what made me think of that this morning but it worked so I'm happy. So what do I need to adjust in the game I'm running on 360pure for the ffb setting now and it seems pretty good.

That's awesome. Crazy it was something so simple.

The FFB is really simple. My understanding is that 360 Pure is the RealFeelPlugIn without canned effects. I set it that when I first try a car out, because removing the clipping is the first step. There's not FFB meter, so setting it to Pure makes it easier to feel the clipping. For most cars, I actually like the feel of 360 Pure, and often just leave it there. The +Effects 1,2,3 seem to add various canned effects on top of the RealFeel effects. They increase the immersion, but it can diminish the slip forces from the RealFeel plugin. Open wheelers seem to be able to tolerate more canned effects than other cars. Basically, I set that depending on the car and how I'm feeling, ether 360 Pure or Pure+Effects 3

To dial out the clipping, it's easier to set the game to Windowed + Borderless (Do that from the startup configuration). That way, you can just minimize or alt-tab the game window and edit the .ini files. When you play in full screen, the game doesn't like to be alt-tab out of and can freeze. You might get some stuttering in Window mode. Bumping the in-game frame rate limit to 1.5X you V-Sync rate might help, if not, it's tolerable for short time you need to dial out the clipping. I just picked a track that I knew well that had a little everything and just dial in about 15 cars at one time. Now I'm trying those out. When I'm done, I'll tune another set in Windowed mode, and so on.

In the root installation folder, you'll find the RealFeelPlugIn.ini file. The cars that come with the base install are already in there with Reiza set values. The claim, they're set for 20-30% clipping, so you'll want come down on most of them. You just change the value for maximum steering gain. It rescales the force, so decreasing the value makes the wheel strong, and increasing it makes it lighter. For mods or cars that don't have values in the file, the game will create a default set of values for that car the first time you load the car in a session. You have to reload the session if you make changes to the .ini file, but if you're in Windowed mode, you don't have to exit the game. The default value set has max steering gain at 2500.00. But take a look at some of the cars from the installation. Some have values of 12400.00. I think it just depends on the type of wheel the developer used when making it. Most mods fall between 2250.00 - 3.500.00, but I've got some that are higher. One I had to go up to 7500.00 to get the clipping out, but that just makes it feel normal, and it's still just as strong as the cars I have set to 2500.00...LOL.

You'll know when you start getting close to the sweet spot, too. You restart the session, come out of the pits, and immediately feel as though the car just came alive. :)

morpwr
11-12-2016, 19:31
That's awesome. Crazy it was something so simple.

The FFB is really simple. My understanding is that 360 Pure is the RealFeelPlugIn without canned effects. I set it that when I first try a car out, because removing the clipping is the first step. There's not FFB meter, so setting it to Pure makes it easier to feel the clipping. For most cars, I actually like the feel of 360 Pure, and often just leave it there. The +Effects 1,2,3 seem to add various canned effects on top of the RealFeel effects. They increase the immersion, but it can diminish the slip forces from the RealFeel plugin. Open wheelers seem to be able to tolerate more canned effects than other cars. Basically, I set that depending on the car and how I'm feeling, ether 360 Pure or Pure+Effects 3

To dial out the clipping, it's easier to set the game to Windowed + Borderless (Do that from the startup configuration). That way, you can just minimize or alt-tab the game window and edit the .ini files. When you play in full screen, the game doesn't like to be alt-tab out of and can freeze. You might get some stuttering in Window mode. Bumping the in-game frame rate limit to 1.5X you V-Sync rate might help, if not, it's tolerable for short time you need to dial out the clipping. I just picked a track that I knew well that had a little everything and just dial in about 15 cars at one time. Now I'm trying those out. When I'm done, I'll tune another set in Windowed mode, and so on.

In the root installation folder, you'll find the RealFeelPlugIn.ini file. The cars that come with the base install are already in there with Reiza set values. The claim, they're set for 20-30% clipping, so you'll want come down on most of them. You just change the value for maximum steering gain. It rescales the force, so decreasing the value makes the wheel strong, and increasing it makes it lighter. For mods or cars that don't have values in the file, the game will create a default set of values for that car the first time you load the car in a session. You have to reload the session if you make changes to the .ini file, but if you're in Windowed mode, you don't have to exit the game. The default value set has max steering gain at 2500.00. But take a look at some of the cars from the installation. Some have values of 12400.00. I think it just depends on the type of wheel the developer used when making it. Most mods fall between 2250.00 - 3.500.00, but I've got some that are higher. One I had to go up to 7500.00 to get the clipping out, but that just makes it feel normal, and it's still just as strong as the cars I have set to 2500.00...LOL.

You'll know when you start getting close to the sweet spot, too. You restart the session, come out of the pits, and immediately feel as though the car just came alive. :)

One of those I wonder things that just hits you.lol That's what kind of made me think about that because it was like multiple buttons where pressed at the same time and it used the extra button slots on the board for the extra pedal ground. Just the little I played it earlier I could see it had promise to be good. I did find the real feel file. It looks pretty straight forward so time to start tweaking.

morpwr
12-12-2016, 10:54
Talked to the guys at heusinkveld yesterday I guess they have a new version of the pedal controller that doesn't need the extra wire to stabilize the pedals anymore. Which is what they sent me.:)

BigDad
12-12-2016, 13:19
That's awesome. Crazy it was something so simple.


To dial out the clipping, it's easier to set the game to Windowed + Borderless (Do that from the startup configuration). That way, you can just minimize or alt-tab the game window and edit the .ini files. When you play in full screen, the game doesn't like to be alt-tab out of and can freeze. You might get some stuttering in Window mode. Bumping the in-game frame rate limit to 1.5X you V-Sync rate might help, if not, it's tolerable for short time you need to dial out the clipping. I just picked a track that I knew well that had a little everything and just dial in about 15 cars at one time. Now I'm trying those out. When I'm done, I'll tune another set in Windowed mode, and so on.



Or you could just use Ctrl+numpad and dial the FFB OTG .

Haiden
12-12-2016, 15:00
Or you could just use Ctrl+numpad and dial the FFB OTG .

Sure, if I had a Numpad. :) I have a short keyboard, so the numpad is virtual. I have to use the function keys to dual mode some of the regular keys. A full size keyboard wouldn't fit on my tabletop wheel deck.

Not a big deal. I actually like going into the file. For some cars--like the ones in the F1 2016 mod, with teams--you can just copy/paste the settings from one car and just change the name, for example Merc #06 N vs Merc #44 L. You can also see which cars are sharing the same RealFeel settings. I've noticed a few of the Ferraris share the same settings script, even though they aren't actually the same car. :)

Also, what increments does the Ctrl+numpad option use? When you're in the file, you can fine tune it in single digit increments, or even to multiple decimal points. Does the Ctrl option go in single digits? Does it show the new value on the screen when you change it?

morpwr
12-12-2016, 15:42
Or you could just use Ctrl+numpad and dial the FFB OTG .

How do you do it that way? At least that would be a lot faster to get you close.

Roger Prynne
12-12-2016, 18:03
Have any of you guys got the EEC GT3 Mod v1.9 by PATR10T ? and if so what do you think of it? and if not you should get it.

Edit: Changed version typo from 3 to 1.9

Haiden
12-12-2016, 18:30
Have any of you guys got the EEC GT3 Mod v3.0 by PATR10T ? and if so what do you think of it? and if not you should get it.

Yep! And I highly recommend it. I downloaded the base mod, and about 4 series--2012, 2016, and the British one. Can't remember the other one, might be the 2010. Even GT3s that I haven't liked in other games, or thought were just okay, but didn't care to drive are great in that mod. All the cars feel distinctly different, too. :)

One of the .ini files was out of place though in the archive structure. I think it was the HeadPhysics file. You have to move it to the right directory; otherwise, the pace car is the only vehicle showing in the selection screen. :)

Roger Prynne
12-12-2016, 19:04
Yeah it's a great mod and the series are great additions to it, it's really fun to race with 30 different GT3 cars at the same time, and then all the AI cars are doing lap times very close to mine, makes for a very interesting and close race.

Fanapryde
12-12-2016, 19:13
One of the .ini files was out of place though in the archive structure. I think it was the HeadPhysics file. You have to move it to the right directory; otherwise, the pace car is the only vehicle showing in the selection screen. :)
Thanks for informing ! So that's why I could not get it to work :confused:

Roger Prynne
12-12-2016, 20:01
I had that problem with an earlier version but not with v3.0

Haiden
12-12-2016, 20:17
Thanks for informing ! So that's why I could not get it to work :confused:

I was SOOO frustrated, and couldn't find anything about it. I saw him mention something about the file being missing in v1.7 and fixing it in v1.9, but when I looked at the file structure for the other cars, I noticed that they all had that file in a different location, so I moved it and bang... Eveyrthing was fixed. I was ready to give up on it.



I had that problem with an earlier version but not with v3.0

TBH, I didn't realize there was a 3.0 version for AMS. I've only seen the v1.9. Where did you download the v3.0 for AMS? They don't show it on the FB Page. I've only seen v3.0 for GTR2.

Roger Prynne
12-12-2016, 21:50
^ Ahhhh... silly me got my mods and games all muxed ip :hopelessness:
Yeah I meant v1.9

Haiden
12-12-2016, 22:33
^ Ahhhh... silly me got my mods and games all muxed ip :hopelessness:
Yeah I meant v1.9

The file was in the v1.9 archive, but it was still in the wrong place for me. If I copy the archive directories to the root folder, the HeadPhysics file is still in the wrong place. The original post was from a few months ago, so maybe he uploaded another one since then. Either way, if anyone is having trouble getting it to work and only seeing the pace car in the selection screen, try moving that file to correct location. That worked for me.

Edit: And no worries. I was just worried, I wasted time dialing in cars from a two-version old model. :)

BigDad
12-12-2016, 22:56
How do you do it that way? At least that would be a lot faster to get you close.

http://forum.reizastudios.com/threads/force-feedback-how-to-get-a-stiffer-wheel.292/
Post 8

Haiden, it doesn't do as fine tuning as the ini files but it works perfectly fine. Any difference would be negligible when using numbers into the hundreds of thousands, lol

It works in x10, x100 and x1000 format.

There is a female voice that confirms your adjustment if you enable speech in the realfeel ini file.

Haiden
12-12-2016, 23:26
http://forum.reizastudios.com/threads/force-feedback-how-to-get-a-stiffer-wheel.292/
Post 8

Haiden, it doesn't do as fine tuning as the ini files but it works perfectly fine. Any difference would be negligible when using numbers into the hundreds of thousands, lol

It works in x10, x100 and x1000 format.

There is a female voice that confirms your adjustment if you enable speech in the realfeel ini file.

Cool. LOL... I was more worried it scaled by hundreds, increments of 10 is fine. For some of the models +/- 20 actually makes a difference, especially if you're allowing a little clipping.

Edit: What is the difference between Sharper/Softer FFB Response vs. Stronger FF and Softer FF. Which controls the MaxSteering force? Is that the former? Because the Stronger/Softer FF seems to only be adjustable by x100 or x1000 with the shortcuts.

Haiden
13-12-2016, 00:26
http://forum.reizastudios.com/threads/force-feedback-how-to-get-a-stiffer-wheel.292/
Post 8

Haiden, it doesn't do as fine tuning as the ini files but it works perfectly fine. Any difference would be negligible when using numbers into the hundreds of thousands, lol

It works in x10, x100 and x1000 format.

There is a female voice that confirms your adjustment if you enable speech in the realfeel ini file.

MaxSteeringForce can only be adjusted by x100 or x1000. I just tried it out. I can adjust the dampening by increments of x10 and x100, but not steering force. That'll definitely get you close, and even if you end up under the actual threshold by a hundred or two, it's fine if it feels okay. I know I've got a few cars that I probably could have dialed higher, but I was fine with how it felt, so I stopped tuning. IMO, the real beauty of the FFB in AMS is that you don't really have to worry about anything but strength. The FFB from the RealFeelPlugin is perfectly fine right out of the box. All you have to do is dial in the max steering force. :)

And dude... The voice on my mine is male. How'd you get a woman? :sorrow: :)

BigDad
13-12-2016, 01:09
MaxSteeringForce can only be adjusted by x100 or x1000. I just tried it out. I can adjust the dampening by increments of x10 and x100, but not steering force. That'll definitely get you close, and even if you end up under the actual threshold by a hundred or two, it's fine if it feels okay. I know I've got a few cars that I probably could have dialed higher, but I was fine with how it felt, so I stopped tuning. IMO, the real beauty of the FFB in AMS is that you don't really have to worry about anything but strength. The FFB from the RealFeelPlugin is perfectly fine right out of the box. All you have to do is dial in the max steering force. :)

And dude... The voice on my mine is male. How'd you get a woman? :sorrow: :)

HAHAHA , Thats funny . Not sure why they are different but by default i had a womans voice.
The spotter's is a blokes voice so there is a big difference between spotter and FFB voice.
Yeh, i have only ever adjusted by 100 but in finding that link for this thread i noticed it said by 10's . But i think having any OTG adjustment is awesome.

morpwr
13-12-2016, 01:55
Got my new board for the pedals installed so I tried out the problem one. New board is even better then the old style too. Dead steady numbers now when calibrating them. All I can say is wow to the pedals and automobilista. I tried a few cars and the formula truck. lol I just had to. Cant wait to start tweaking them. The graphics aren't as bad as I remembered when I first tried it a while back. Maybe I just ignored it because the ffb was so good.lol I have a question about the NVidia inspector though. Wheres the best place to download that? I searched it but I hate that half the links usually are linked to something you don't want.

BigDad
13-12-2016, 02:03
Got my new board for the pedals installed so I tried out the problem one. New board is even better then the old style too. Dead steady numbers now when calibrating them. All I can say is wow to the pedals and automobilista. I tried a few cars and the formula truck. lol I just had to. Cant wait to start tweaking them. The graphics aren't as bad as I remembered when I first tried it a while back. Maybe I just ignored it because the ffb was so good.lol I have a question about the NVidia inspector though. Wheres the best place to download that? I searched it but I hate that half the links usually are linked to something you don't want.

http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/nvidia-inspector-download.html
This is where i got it . Just scroll half way down (small print, download locations) , dont hit the download near the top as this is ads (crapware).
http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=638367451
I now use this instead of sparcegrid . give it ago in AMS and rF2 . really good . Just lower it to suit if you are using 4K . This is set for 1080p so it will kill the memory limit imposed by 32 bit AMS .

Fanapryde
13-12-2016, 08:07
One of the .ini files was out of place though in the archive structure. I think it was the HeadPhysics file. You have to move it to the right directory; otherwise, the pace car is the only vehicle showing in the selection screen. :)
Where does it need to go ?
I placed EEC_HeadPhysics in GameData > Vehicles > EEC_GT3, but I still get to see the pace car only... :confused:

BigDad
13-12-2016, 10:00
Where does it need to go ?
I placed EEC_HeadPhysics in GameData > Vehicles > EEC_GT3, but I still get to see the pace car only... :confused:

Did you download the texture file ?

Fanapryde
13-12-2016, 10:29
Did you download the texture file ?
I downloaded the EEC GT3 Base 1.0 and 1.9 update. Installed them.
If the file was in there, it should be installed, right ?
But I can't find any file with the name texture in AMS, except for a putnam_textures.MAS ?(which is obviously in Putnam (locations).
What do I need to look for ?

AMS seems to be a bit weird when it comes to installing mods.
I have all Patrick's tracks installed, without any issues, installed Zolder today, went like a charm. But some other mods keep giving me trouble...:uncomfortableness:

morpwr
13-12-2016, 11:02
MaxSteeringForce can only be adjusted by x100 or x1000. I just tried it out. I can adjust the dampening by increments of x10 and x100, but not steering force. That'll definitely get you close, and even if you end up under the actual threshold by a hundred or two, it's fine if it feels okay. I know I've got a few cars that I probably could have dialed higher, but I was fine with how it felt, so I stopped tuning. IMO, the real beauty of the FFB in AMS is that you don't really have to worry about anything but strength. The FFB from the RealFeelPlugin is perfectly fine right out of the box. All you have to do is dial in the max steering force. :)

And dude... The voice on my mine is male. How'd you get a woman? :sorrow: :)

Yeah I really like the fact the ffb just works other then how strong it is. I tried one of the old formula cars at imola and was shocked how good it felt. I could feel all the elevation changes and if you locked up the brakes it was obvious. The formula truck was good but waaaay to heavy. I cant believe I just said that. Those are two words that should never go together.lol Fomula and truck... Ill definitely be spending some time with this game.

morpwr
13-12-2016, 11:09
I downloaded the EEC GT3 Base 1.0 and 1.9 update. Installed them.
If the file was in there, it should be installed, right ?
But I can't find any file with the name texture in AMS, except for a putnam_textures.MAS ?(which is obviously in Putnam (locations).
What do I need to look for ?

AMS seems to be a bit weird when it comes to installing mods.
I have all Patrick's tracks installed, without any issues, installed Zolder today, went like a charm. But some other mods keep giving me trouble...:uncomfortableness:


Not sure exactly what they changed on the new pedal boards but they are different. It has a reset button now and shows more axis in diview almost like they are adding something. They didn't tell me anything other then it was a new version so I don't know other then the values stay completely steady now when in diview. But I don't know if they didn't stay steady before because my old board was bad or that's just the way they worked. They do mention the last digits not stabilizing in the video because the loadcells are so sensitive.

Fanapryde
13-12-2016, 11:31
Not sure exactly what they changed on the new pedal boards but they are different. It has a reset button now and shows more axis in diview almost like they are adding something. They didn't tell me anything other then it was a new version so I don't know other then the values stay completely steady now when in diview. But I don't know if they didn't stay steady before because my old board was bad or that's just the way they worked. They do mention the last digits not stabilizing in the video because the loadcells are so sensitive.
Values in DIView are steady for my pedals. Give or take a few 0.0x for the brake pedal when I move in my chassis. That's how sensitive the loadcells are.
Do the new boards look different ?

Haiden
13-12-2016, 11:37
Where does it need to go ?
I placed EEC_HeadPhysics in GameData > Vehicles > EEC_GT3, but I still get to see the pace car only... :confused:

Yes. Make sure you download and install the texture file.

Other than that, all I did was move the HeadPhysics.ini file from outside the EEC_GT3 folder to inside it. Then loaded the game, and the cars were there. Inside the EEC_GT3 folder there are now all the vehicle directories and two .ini files--HeadPhysics and GT3_Damage.

Not sure why it isn't working for you. :confused:

Oh, wait... one other thing I did was remove all of the other EEC GT3 series mods I had downloaded. I installed them all at once, like I had been doing other mods. But for some reason had the thought that might be causing a conflict. So I removed everything, installed the 1.7 mod, dropped the v1.9 on top of that, and then booted up the game and the cars showed. Then I backed out and reinstalled the other series mods, and they all worked fine when loaded the game.

Not sure, but it's possible that trying to load a new series before load the base install causes issues because the new series still use the base install's models. I've noticed there a things in AMS that don't get written until certain things are loaded. Try uninstalling and reinstalling them in that order. I can't remember where I found the v1.7 mods from. I thought it was on their FB Page, but if it was, they've since taken it down. Not sure it's necessary to install that first, though.

Haiden
13-12-2016, 11:39
I downloaded the EEC GT3 Base 1.0 and 1.9 update. Installed them.
If the file was in there, it should be installed, right ?
But I can't find any file with the name texture in AMS, except for a putnam_textures.MAS ?(which is obviously in Putnam (locations).
What do I need to look for ?

AMS seems to be a bit weird when it comes to installing mods.
I have all Patrick's tracks installed, without any issues, installed Zolder today, went like a charm. But some other mods keep giving me trouble...:uncomfortableness:

You have to expand the Note section on their FB Page, and the links are toward the bottom.

https://www.facebook.com/notes/european-endurance-center/eec-gt3-base-v19-updated-03122016/1693186247664035

That's where I got the v1.7, it's the first link.

BigDad
13-12-2016, 12:10
I downloaded the EEC GT3 Base 1.0 and 1.9 update. Installed them.
If the file was in there, it should be installed, right ?
But I can't find any file with the name texture in AMS, except for a putnam_textures.MAS ?(which is obviously in Putnam (locations).
What do I need to look for ?

AMS seems to be a bit weird when it comes to installing mods.
I have all Patrick's tracks installed, without any issues, installed Zolder today, went like a charm. But some other mods keep giving me trouble...:uncomfortableness:

Download Mod: https://mega.nz/#!TkxU0KxI!VWT_GH9_...

Download Mod Update: https://mega.nz/#!vpInjQjL!O9VU6MA9...
Download Shared: https://mega.nz/#F!mpgByLbD!DEnHA3_R0i5HmYMDfRLjZg
Download Templates: https://mega.nz/#F!q5IXjSSS!_Gqrt0jt8vkkq9LjoeL8jw
update readme:
eec gt3 v1.9
I appolagise, its the shared file... i think . Just make sure you download all these and install .
These links are from the Facebook link Haiden posted.

Roger Prynne
13-12-2016, 12:18
I downloaded the EEC GT3 Base 1.0 and 1.9 update. Installed them.
If the file was in there, it should be installed, right ?
But I can't find any file with the name texture in AMS, except for a putnam_textures.MAS ?(which is obviously in Putnam (locations).
What do I need to look for ?

AMS seems to be a bit weird when it comes to installing mods.
I have all Patrick's tracks installed, without any issues, installed Zolder today, went like a charm. But some other mods keep giving me trouble...:uncomfortableness:

Did you download the 'Shared.zip' in that zip you will find the 'EEC Shared Textures v1.1.7z' install that and see what happens.

http://gtr2-endurance.forumotion.org/t3392-eec-gt3-base-v1-9-updated-03-12-2016

Ninjad by the Big Daddy

morpwr
13-12-2016, 12:38
Values in DIView are steady for my pedals. Give or take a few 0.0x for the brake pedal when I move in my chassis. That's how sensitive the loadcells are.
Do the new boards look different ?

Maybe the fluctuation in mine was because of the board? But he did make a point on that in the video with the 16 bit board the numbers may move some in the last 2 places but they don't anymore. The new board is physically the same with the exception of the fw reset button and the board is blue now. I'm assuming that's how they know which is which easily by the color. They did thell me with the new board the extra ground wont be necessary anymore when used with dd wheels but that's all I know on the actual differences.

BigDad
13-12-2016, 12:38
Ninjad by the Big Daddy

Whoop Whoop

Fanapryde
13-12-2016, 14:15
Removed the EEC completely and started over, downloading and extracting first version, update, shared, moved the HeadPhysics to the right place (together with GT3 damage under all the vehicle files).
Also dowloaded the GT3 templates (but I don't know where to put or even IF it is needed).
I had no previous EEC mods, so that can't be an issue.
Did a Steam integrity check.
Restarted the computer, started AMS and all I get to see is the blue EEC icon in the series selection.
No cars, except a yellow Chevy Safety Car and next to it a little window that says Mini Challenge (which is the last car I used).

Then I started checking all EEC files in AMS. As it turned out there were three files that were not unzipped, a showroom file, a safety car file, and another that slips my mind for now.
After unzipping, all cars wer there !

Going to try them all out now !
Thank you all for helping :eagerness:

Haiden
13-12-2016, 14:31
No cars, except a yellow Chevy Safety Car and next to it a little window that says Mini Challenge (which is the last car I used).

Then I started checking all EEC files in AMS. As it turned out there were three files that were not unzipped, a showroom file, a safety car file, and another that slips my mind for now.
After unzipping, all cars wer there !

Going to try them all out now !
Thank you all for helping :eagerness:

Yeah... his archive packing leaves a little to be desired...LOL One of the reasons I often move file folders separately for mods. Dragging the main folder, assumes all the sub directories and files are packed correctly.

Glad you got it working. It's a great mod, breathed new life into the GT3 class for me. :)

BigDad
13-12-2016, 14:33
Good stuff , Now close AMS and start up rF2,lol
I restarted my whole approach to the graphical settings after this .....Copy and Pasted from a fellow helping me out @ Studio 397



- Set your nvidia control panel for rFactor 2 to default !!! It messes with the Config.ini and cache !!!
- Clean up your "UserData/log/CBash" and "UserData/log/shader" folder (delete the containing files)
- Remove the player.json and config.ini (cut/past to desktop to keep a back-up)
- launche rF2 it will create a new clean config.ini and player.json.
- set your graphic settings again: only use settings available in rF2.

Don't forget to save your controller settings!!! So you can load your personal controller profile again. Or reassign your controller bottons again.

At first launche: rF2 will generate a new shader cache: So first launche of a car/track combo will be slower. But will be a lot faster the second time.


Quote from Tuttle (ISI Dev)

Starting from a clean installation, with a clean player/config file, the best way to proceed with graphics settings is to JUST use ingame settings, pushing on high AA levels and anisotropic filtering x8 or x16 (and of course good track/car quality settings)...and that without overriding anything via inspector and/or CCP.

(Also HDR must be ON if you want a proper modern lighting. ==> is default)

This way you can load the game and check how it looks. If you see trees are looking properly (no alpha jaggies) and texture are sharp enough to see details into it (aniso texture filtering), you can decide to be happy (and stop tweaking)...or start experimenting extra settings, outside the game.

But this is the time where you can mess with profiles and configs, so you have to check every single step, and every single click you are doing with CCPs and inspectors, to see how things are working. May happen a CCP/Inspector change is going to mess the config.ini and cache... and you can't just roll back from those settings, without cleaning up that file (aka generating a brand new one). Same for the Players.JSON and Transparency AA, or xpaa, using False to make wrong trees looking better and then making correct trees looking wrong.

Still, the easy way to make the game looking at best, is to go easy peasy, with standard ingame settings. This is where you are working inside our choices, instead playing with a very big mix of variables we can't control.


I'm going to do this also to AMS because it made me fall in Love with rF2 again .
Man having these two awesome sims available to us is friggin Awesome .

Haiden
13-12-2016, 14:49
Good stuff , Now close AMS and start up rF2,lol
I restarted my whole approach to the graphical settings after this .....Copy and Pasted from a fellow helping me out @ Studio 397



- Set your nvidia control panel for rFactor 2 to default !!! It messes with the Config.ini and cache !!!
- Clean up your "UserData/log/CBash" and "UserData/log/shader" folder (delete the containing files)
- Remove the player.json and config.ini (cut/past to desktop to keep a back-up)
- launche rF2 it will create a new clean config.ini and player.json.
- set your graphic settings again: only use settings available in rF2.

Don't forget to save your controller settings!!! So you can load your personal controller profile again. Or reassign your controller bottons again.

At first launche: rF2 will generate a new shader cache: So first launche of a car/track combo will be slower. But will be a lot faster the second time.


Quote from Tuttle (ISI Dev)

Starting from a clean installation, with a clean player/config file, the best way to proceed with graphics settings is to JUST use ingame settings, pushing on high AA levels and anisotropic filtering x8 or x16 (and of course good track/car quality settings)...and that without overriding anything via inspector and/or CCP.

(Also HDR must be ON if you want a proper modern lighting. ==> is default)

This way you can load the game and check how it looks. If you see trees are looking properly (no alpha jaggies) and texture are sharp enough to see details into it (aniso texture filtering), you can decide to be happy (and stop tweaking)...or start experimenting extra settings, outside the game.

But this is the time where you can mess with profiles and configs, so you have to check every single step, and every single click you are doing with CCPs and inspectors, to see how things are working. May happen a CCP/Inspector change is going to mess the config.ini and cache... and you can't just roll back from those settings, without cleaning up that file (aka generating a brand new one). Same for the Players.JSON and Transparency AA, or xpaa, using False to make wrong trees looking better and then making correct trees looking wrong.

Still, the easy way to make the game looking at best, is to go easy peasy, with standard ingame settings. This is where you are working inside our choices, instead playing with a very big mix of variables we can't control.


I'm going to do this also to AMS because it made me fall in Love with rF2 again .
Man having these two awesome sims available to us is friggin Awesome .

So that guy suggested using the in-game graphic settings for AMS, too? Doesn't Reiza suggest letting the GPU handle the graphics? The first time I tried AMS, I set the graphics in-game, and I thought that was one of the reason I didn't like the look of it. It looks very good now, but I'm using the GPU.

Fanapryde
13-12-2016, 16:10
I gave most of the cars a few laps around Zolder. Is it me, or is there something wrong with the two Ferrari's ?
Steering is very light :tranquillity:
Most of them are a joy to drive, sounds are not bad either - love the Ginetta BTW - some improvement on the graphics side would not hurt.
I am glad I finally have some nice cars in the sim. Not really a fan of open wheelers, so there is not really a whole lot left, until now...

I also have only one color for each car. Are more liveries available in the GT3 template ? Did not unzip this yet...

Haiden
13-12-2016, 16:24
I gave most of the cars a few laps around Zolder. Is it me, or is there something wrong with the two Ferrari's ?
Steering is very light :tranquillity:
Most of them are a joy to drive, sounds are not bad either - love the Ginetta BTW - some improvement on the graphics side would not hurt.
I am glad I finally have some nice cars in the sim. Not really a fan of open wheelers, so there is not really a whole lot left, until now...

I also have only one color for each car. Are more liveries available in the GT3 template ? Did not unzip this yet...


I think the Ferraris use the same settings, even between mod series. And I'm pretty sure that was one of the cars I had to rescale lower to get more force. Just lower the MaxSteeringForce, until it feels better. But even after I got the FFB strength correct, I notice there's a small slip in the wheel when you reach a certain angle. Not a huge deal, and I got use to it pretty quickly, but it's there. The Ferrari and the Porsche models have a very different feel than the others. It's hard to explain, but I'm assuming you're feeling it, too.

As far as the liveries. They're based on the teams for that year. So each car only has one livery, but there are multiple versions of certain cars models based on the teams for that year. So if you want a different livery, you actually select a different car/team. The downside to that is, the FFB settings are universal for, but the mechanical setups aren't. So while all BMW Z4 will use the same RealFeelPlugIn entry, if you change teams, you'll have to create a new mechanical setup or load the one from the other car. I don't mind that, but I do hate having to look for the car I want. Unless you remember the team name, you have to click them all just to find the one you want, because you can't sort them by manufacturer/model. And you can only see the make/model when you select a team. At least I haven't figured out how to view it any other way. :confused:

FS7
13-12-2016, 22:42
Patrick Giranthon released Le Mas Du CLos a few days ago, it's the 22nd track location he released for AMS:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/le-mas-du-clos-2-seasons.12985/history

Personally I think his tracks should be in a separate "AMS unofficial free DLC" section.

BigDad
14-12-2016, 00:54
So that guy suggested using the in-game graphic settings for AMS, too? Doesn't Reiza suggest letting the GPU handle the graphics? The first time I tried AMS, I set the graphics in-game, and I thought that was one of the reason I didn't like the look of it. It looks very good now, but I'm using the GPU.

No! First line of his post - Set your nvidia control panel for rFactor 2 to default !!! It messes with the Config.ini and cache !!!
Nothing to do with AMS , This was just my thinking that all my different configs i've done over the past may have messed with the files and could do with a clean up .
I think i will still add inspector settings to both AMS and rF2 but they needed a clean and as i apply settings and reapply settings trying to find optimal it messed things up so after i cleaned things i've added things slower and in a more ordered fashion .
rF2 has never looked so good . Back to being my Favorite .
With the EEC GT3 Mod , there are heaps of skins available on racedepartment and many other sites . I think ive got 4 different GT3 categories in AMS.

Lots of Mods here also.
http://www.rwb-racing.enjin.com/amsmods#

Haiden
14-12-2016, 00:54
Patrick Giranthon released Le Mas Du CLos a few days ago, it's the 22nd track location he released for AMS:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/le-mas-du-clos-2-seasons.12985/history

Personally I think his tracks should in a separate "AMS unofficial free DLC" section.

I love his tracks. Love that he includes the different seasons, too. Some of the Autumn versions are just amazing. I like the EEC cars, but their tracks aren't as good as Giranthon's. That's not to say they're bad. His are just great. I'm downloading this one, right now. Thanks!

Haiden
14-12-2016, 01:22
No! First line of his post - Set your nvidia control panel for rFactor 2 to default !!! It messes with the Config.ini and cache !!!
Nothing to do with AMS , This was just my thinking that all my different configs i've done over the past may have messed with the files and could do with a clean up .
I think i will still add inspector settings to both AMS and rF2 but they needed a clean and as i apply settings and reapply settings trying to find optimal it messed things up so after i cleaned things i've added things slower and in a more ordered fashion .
rF2 has never looked so good . Back to being my Favorite .
With the EEC GT3 Mod , there are heaps of skins available on racedepartment and many other sites . I think ive got 4 different GT3 categories in AMS.

Lots of Mods here also.
http://www.rwb-racing.enjin.com/amsmods#

Ah... okay. I saw that, but then your comment about revisiting AMS made me think it had something to do with that guy's advice.

I think I'll do the same. Graphics-wise, rF2 looks pretty much the same as R3E to me. But I think I did, at some point, try letting the GPU handle the graphics, and then went back to in-game control. So, I think I'll give that clean up a try. Do you think rF2 looks better than R3E now, or about the same?

BigDad
14-12-2016, 01:47
Ah... okay. I saw that, but then your comment about revisiting AMS made me think it had something to do with that guy's advice.

I think I'll do the same. Graphics-wise, rF2 looks pretty much the same as R3E to me. But I think I did, at some point, try letting the GPU handle the graphics, and then went back to in-game control. So, I think I'll give that clean up a try. Do you think rF2 looks better than R3E now, or about the same?

Mod dependant really , rF2 imo beats AMS in most ways , but i do think R3E wins graphically but no where near for feel .
But this is an opinion and not for all to agree on .

Graphics, this order...
AC/pCars/R3E/rF2/AMS I just wish these proper Sims could use DX12 and look like forza .

But i prefer to play in this order...
rF2/AMS/AC/R3E/pCars.

Haiden
14-12-2016, 03:17
Mod dependant really , rF2 imo beats AMS in most ways , but i do think R3E wins graphically but no where near for feel .
But this is an opinion and not for all to agree on .

Graphics, this order...
AC/pCars/R3E/rF2/AMS I just wish these proper Sims could use DX12 and look like forza .

But i prefer to play in this order...
rF2/AMS/AC/R3E/pCars.

I haven't tried rF2, since I installed the RealFeelPlugin. I need to go back and test it out. Too many sims. Not enough time. First World problem. :)

BigDad
14-12-2016, 04:58
I haven't tried rF2, since I installed the RealFeelPlugin. I need to go back and test it out. Too many sims. Not enough time. First World problem. :)

What version realfeel did you install? and where did you download it from?

morpwr
14-12-2016, 11:08
I haven't tried rF2, since I installed the RealFeelPlugin. I need to go back and test it out. Too many sims. Not enough time. First World problem. :)

I know its tough sometimes. Which one should I play?lol Only thing is I find myself wanting to play pcars less and less even though its a really good looking game. If they fix the grip feel in pcars 2 it will be tough to beat or at least level the field.

Haiden
14-12-2016, 11:29
What version realfeel did you install? and where did you download it from?

v.092 I got it from here.

https://www.rfactorcentral.com/detail.cfm?ID=Real%20Feel%20FFB%20Plugin


Haven't tried it yet, though. And the reviews were mixed. Maybe this weekend I'll boot it up. :confused: Have you seen a more recent version?

Edit: In fact, I think I'm going to uninstall it. I've haven't booted the game, since I copied the files. But I also haven't tried rF2 since I started playing AMS. I'd like to compare rF2's native FFB to AMS' before I run the plugin to get a point of reference.

BigDad
14-12-2016, 11:51
If you enjoy historic cars from '65 mustangs , '63 cobra's ,e-type, 275GTB, 250GTO and heaps more (10 seperate catagories on AMS cars list) get the historic x mod in the link i posted a few posts ago .6GB size but well worth . The cars are insanely sideways , even the Ai , Some can do it ,lol and some just cant . Great to watch and drive .

BigDad
14-12-2016, 11:53
v.092 I got it from here.

https://www.rfactorcentral.com/detail.cfm?ID=Real%20Feel%20FFB%20Plugin


Haven't tried it yet, though. And the reviews were mixed. Maybe this weekend I'll boot it up. :confused: Have you seen a more recent version?

Edit: In fact, I think I'm going to uninstall it. I've haven't booted the game, since I copied the files. But I also haven't tried rF2 since I started playing AMS. I'd like to compare rF2's native FFB to AMS' before I run the plugin to get a point of reference.

I haven't installed any realfeel (thought it was there stock?) . FFB is great , just did a 20 lap around Mills in the Corvette . Brilliant .

Haiden
14-12-2016, 11:59
I know its tough sometimes. Which one should I play?lol Only thing is I find myself wanting to play pcars less and less even though its a really good looking game. If they fix the grip feel in pcars 2 it will be tough to beat or at least level the field.

Yep. I agree. It definitely looks the best, but compared to AMS, rF2, AC, R3E, there's something off about the FFB in PCars. It's totally communicative, and you feel all the slip info and everything the tires are doing, and yet, something still feels disconnected about it.

The past few times, I've booted up PCars, I played for a bit, and then just wanted to go back to something else. The graphics in some of the other titles, aren't as good, but they're far from bad, and what they lack in graphic luster, they more than make up for in FFB, physics, AI behavior, sound, liveries, mods, etc. I like the MP experience on PCars, but I haven't tried much MP in any other title, so that's not saying much. One of thing I've noticed, though... I've always played sims with no assists. But PCars is the only one that gives me a bit of trouble. Moving between AMS, rF2, and R3E is simple and I have no trouble with grip and cornering. Same with AC, except it takes me a few laps to get used to the braking (although that may change now, since I heard Kunos FINALLY added adjustable brake pressure...LOL). But with PCars, if I don't have assists set to Real, the cars are a pain in the arse to drive. Same cars with no assists in other games, not a problem; come to PCars, they're a frustrating challenge to push in. Now, I'm sure some people will say that's because PCars' physics model is better, but I'd be more included to believe that if it wasn't for the fact that every other sim has comparable physics, and PCars stands alone in this regard. If the physics model is accurate and comparable to the other titles, then I can only assume it's that missing feel in the FFB that makes the cars harder to drive. :confused:

Haiden
14-12-2016, 12:03
I haven't installed any realfeel (thought it was there stock?) . FFB is great , just did a 20 lap around Mills in the Corvette . Brilliant .

They said to add the .dll to the Plugin folder, and then on first run it creates the RealFeelPlugIn.ini file. I don't think it's there in the base installation, because there's no RealFeelPlugIn.ini file in the root folder.

But like you said, the FFB is great out of the box. Which is why I want to try it like that again first to compare it to AMS. I might end up leaving it it as-is. I downloaded that Historic pack, but I haven't installed yet. Something else to do this weekend. :)

BigDad
14-12-2016, 12:10
They said to add the .dll to the Plugin folder, and then on first run it creates the RealFeelPlugIn.ini file. I don't think it's there in the base installation, because there's no RealFeelPlugIn.ini file in the root folder.

But like you said, the FFB is great out of the box. Which is why I want to try it like that again first to compare it to AMS. I might end up leaving it it as-is. I downloaded that Historic pack, but I haven't installed yet. Something else to do this weekend. :)

Historic pack is great , even looks half decent .
Just did a quick test Mclaren GT3 in AMS and rF2 and to be honest rF2 has it beat imo , .Even though ive adjusted files to remove dead centre in AMS , rF2 still feels tighter by just adjusting the in game min setting.
All personal preference . Once i find something i like i just like to spread the word so other might also enjoy .
I dont think we as Racing Sim Gamers could ask for much more.....or maybe , a new wheel from Santa....Please , I've been sort of a good Boy.lol

FS7
14-12-2016, 12:11
I know its tough sometimes. Which one should I play?lol Only thing is I find myself wanting to play pcars less and less even though its a really good looking game. If they fix the grip feel in pcars 2 it will be tough to beat or at least level the field.
I enjoyed PCars a lot when I had a PS4. After I got a decent PC and some PC sims I found myself playing PCars way less often than I did on PS4. PCars is a great game but the lack of mod support decreases its replay value considerably imo.

Charger
14-12-2016, 12:49
I upgraded to a Sim-Lab P1 rig (huge 80/20 profiles), because my HE Pro pedals made my Simetik K2 pedal plate flex. Not much, but enough to bother me.
Got the pedals working in AMS after several tries. A lot of other things don't work (yet) in AMS, issues with triple setup, flickering side screens while in menu, stuttering, crashing. But when it is working, the ride is OK, very good feel of the cars.
Got to say the pCars forum and his moderators are A LOT more helpful than the Reiza forum :confused:
Posted several times about the issues and the only help was from a guy who was also new on the forum.

Yeah, that was me ;-), did you sort it?

Charger
14-12-2016, 13:07
I gave most of the cars a few laps around Zolder. Is it me, or is there something wrong with the two Ferrari's ?
Steering is very light :tranquillity:
Most of them are a joy to drive, sounds are not bad either - love the Ginetta BTW - some improvement on the graphics side would not hurt.
I am glad I finally have some nice cars in the sim. Not really a fan of open wheelers, so there is not really a whole lot left, until now...

I also have only one color for each car. Are more liveries available in the GT3 template ? Did not unzip this yet...

The Ferraris FFB is reversed this is why it goes light at full lock, use realfeel and press right ctrl and 8 on the numpad and it will correct it, there are a few cars that suffer from this.

morpwr
14-12-2016, 13:12
Yep. I agree. It definitely looks the best, but compared to AMS, rF2, AC, R3E, there's something off about the FFB in PCars. It's totally communicative, and you feel all the slip info and everything the tires are doing, and yet, something still feels disconnected about it.

The past few times, I've booted up PCars, I played for a bit, and then just wanted to go back to something else. The graphics in some of the other titles, aren't as good, but they're far from bad, and what they lack in graphic luster, they more than make up for in FFB, physics, AI behavior, sound, liveries, mods, etc. I like the MP experience on PCars, but I haven't tried much MP in any other title, so that's not saying much. One of thing I've noticed, though... I've always played sims with no assists. But PCars is the only one that gives me a bit of trouble. Moving between AMS, rF2, and R3E is simple and I have no trouble with grip and cornering. Same with AC, except it takes me a few laps to get used to the braking (although that may change now, since I heard Kunos FINALLY added adjustable brake pressure...LOL). But with PCars, if I don't have assists set to Real, the cars are a pain in the arse to drive. Same cars with no assists in other games, not a problem; come to PCars, they're a frustrating challenge to push in. Now, I'm sure some people will say that's because PCars' physics model is better, but I'd be more included to believe that if it wasn't for the fact that every other sim has comparable physics, and PCars stands alone in this regard. If the physics model is accurate and comparable to the other titles, then I can only assume it's that missing feel in the FFB that makes the cars harder to drive. :confused:

That's exactly how it is for me. I run a race or two and go to something else. I don't use assists either and like you said most of the other games are much easier to drive. Easier is probably the wrong word but you know what I mean. P cars always feels like youre floating above the road to me.

morpwr
14-12-2016, 13:13
The Ferraris FFB is reversed this is why it goes light at full lock, use realfeel and press right ctrl and 8 on the numpad and it will correct it, there are a few cars that suffer from this.

Is there a way to do that without a number pad?

Haiden
14-12-2016, 13:17
Is there a way to do that without a number pad?

Not sure. But check the RealFeelPlugIn.ini entry for the car you're driving and note the values. After you make the change in-game with the numpad, you can recheck the values to see which one changed and how. That is, assuming it's editing the file, like the other settings work. My guess is it might be as simple as changing the MaxSteeringForce (or another value) from -2500.00 to +2500.00. The same way the master FFB gain works. By default it's set to -100, but I've read some guys with certain hardware had to change it to +100 to prevent that locking.

Charger
14-12-2016, 13:40
Not sure. But check the RealFeelPlugIn.ini entry for the car you're driving and note the values. After you make the change in-game with the numpad, you can recheck the values to see which one changed and how. That is, assuming it's editing the file, like the other settings work. My guess is it might be as simple as changing the MaxSteeringForce (or another value) from -2500.00 to +2500.00. The same way the master FFB gain works. By default it's set to -100, but I've read some guys with certain hardware had to change it to +100 to prevent that locking.

Correct, it is just a change of +/- opposite to what it is now, a few of the historic cars are also inverted but a quick tap on ctrl 8 sorts them, I don't know if there is any way of remapping the numpad keys for Realfeel, would be handy if you could though, especially if you don't have a numpad ^^.

BigDad
14-12-2016, 13:42
I am enjoying these more and more..
236492236493236494

Charger
14-12-2016, 13:44
I have mine set up nicely just suffering from awful stuttering with a full grid, it's fine on my own but horrible when I am in the pack, pulling my hair out now as I have tried everything and I mean EVERYTHING to sort it, there is 20 odd of us in the weekly league and I am the only one suffering it, it's definitely my hardware/software but I just can't pinpoint it.

BTW we have a dedi server if you fancy any racing guys, look out for RWB Racing UK 1 & 2, there is racing most nights, just casual stuff and we have all the mods and tracks.

Haiden
14-12-2016, 13:44
I enjoyed PCars a lot when I had a PS4. After I got a decent PC and some PC sims I found myself playing PCars way less often than I did on PS4. PCars is a great game but the lack of mod support decreases its replay value considerably imo.

Yep. When I was on console, there simply wasn't anything close to PCars. But as soon as I went to PC, I found myself drawn to other options and playing PCars less and less, mostly just MP. But even that's declined lately. For me, it's not the content, though. PCars has a lot of cars and tracks that I love. But, unlike console, there are other titles on PC that have better FFB, physics, and a more immersive experience. They may not have the graphic polish of PCars, but in the grand scheme of sim racing, that's just one aspect, and it's not at the top of the list for me.


That's exactly how it is for me. I run a race or two and go to something else. I don't use assists either and like you said most of the other games are much easier to drive. Easier is probably the wrong word but you know what I mean. P cars always feels like youre floating above the road to me.

Yeah... Easier is misleading, but I totally understand. The cars lose traction way too easy. Same car/track combo in the other titles produce similar results when taking the same line into the same corner--same speed, same gearing, no assists. If I turn off assists in PCars and try to do the same, I'm sliding off track. And it's not just corner entry. The grip levels feel wrong throughthe entire corner. :confused:. And don't get me started on the classics and historic cars. I hated pretty much all of them in PCars, thought it was an old vs new thing. But in other titles, they are so much fun to druve and feel so much more alive. Same limitations of classic/older cars, but they're a lot more fun now.

Fanapryde
14-12-2016, 13:44
Yeah, that was me ;-), did you sort it?
More or less. Some things work, others don't.
At a certain moment I had both side screens going dark (with some moving grey contours) in stead of the flickering white with grey contours.
Yesterday I checked integrity at Steam and after it replaced 5 files, I'm back to the flickering whites... :confused:
Also: if I look at replay in full screen, there is no way of getting out, but rebooting the PC.
The mirror in the Boxer is still oriented to the passenger seat too.



The Ferraris FFB is reversed this is why it goes light at full lock, use realfeel and press right ctrl and 8 on the numpad and it will correct it, there are a few cars that suffer from this.
I'm really a bit overwhelmed by all in-file settings in AMS.
I saw realfeel in the files, no idea what it does, not even if I am using it or not ?
Going to try your suggestion anyway. Does it need to be done each time or is the setting saved ?

BTW: I installed the WTCC mod and noticed that ALL mirrors in ALL cars show a reversed view ! Really disturbing. Is there a way to change that ?
Thanks again mate, hope you agree that the Reiza forum is not so great. In the meantime still nobody else (not even from Reiza) gave me any further explanations.

BigDad
14-12-2016, 13:52
More or less. Some things work, others don't.
At a certain moment I had both side screens going dark (with some moving grey contours) in stead of the flickering white with grey contours.
Yesterday I checked integrity at Steam and after it replaced 5 files, I'm back to the flickering whites... :confused:
Also: if I look at replay in full screen, there is no way of getting out, but rebooting the PC.
The mirror in the Boxer is still oriented to the passenger seat too.



I'm really a bit overwhelmed by all in-file settings in AMS.
I saw realfeel in the files, no idea what it does, not even if I am using it or not ?
Going to try your suggestion anyway. Does it need to be done each time or is the setting saved ?

BTW: I installed the WTCC mod and noticed that ALL mirrors in ALL cars show a reversed view ! Really disturbing. Is there a way to change that ?
Thanks again mate, hope you agree that the Reiza forum is not so great. In the meantime still nobody else (not even from Reiza) gave me any further explanations.

i had my mirrors showing the forwards view after i was playing around with self in mirrors in..
Documents/Automobilista/userdata/username/username. Have a look in there . I just opened the Beta version and set it the same as that and got it back .

Charger
14-12-2016, 13:55
I can't remember if it saves but it's easy enough to feel straight away and hit the button.

I can't understand why you can't get the screen spanning across all 3 in the GUI, there is another setting in one of the files that I will check later, also the full screen replay goes across all 3 of mine and there is an arrow bottom left which is quite faint but it reduces it back again, took me a while to spot it lol.

The realfeel is already installed, you only activate it when need with the numpad, you can go into the realfeel folder and activate the voice so you can hear what it does with each press, picture of settings.

236495

Roger Prynne
14-12-2016, 14:02
I had a strange problem with the RF.ini after I installed 3 mods (but don't know which one effected it) where I was getting the reverse FFB problem.
When looking at the RF.ini, I noticed the omission of the '-' in the cars I was trying, so corrected them and all was fine.
Then when trying another car from one of the new mods I got the same problem.... to cut a long story short, I discovered the the first section (this is the default for new cars) of the RF.ini also had the '-' missing?? So corrected that and all is well again.

EDIT: Now I've seen the above post, I'm wondering if I actually did it myself with a key combo press by mistake.

Fanapryde
14-12-2016, 14:06
i had my mirrors showing the forwards view after i was playing around with self in mirrors in..
Documents/Automobilista/userdata/username/username. Have a look in there . I just opened the Beta version and set it the same as that and got it back .

One of these in the username.PLR you mean ?

Self In TV Rearview="0" // add values for any that should be visible (0=none): 1=rear wing & wheels, 2=body & susp, 4=cockpit, 8=steering wheel (15=all)
Self In Cockpit Rearview="0" // add values for any that should be visible (0=none): 1=rear wing & wheels, 2=body & susp, 4=cockpit, 8=steering wheel (15=all)

morpwr
14-12-2016, 14:06
Yep. When I was on console, there simply wasn't anything close to PCars. But as soon as I went to PC, I found myself drawn to other options and playing PCars less and less, mostly just MP. But even that's declined lately. For me, it's not the content, though. PCars has a lot of cars and tracks that I love. But, unlike console, there are other titles on PC that have better FFB, physics, and a more immersive experience. They may not have the graphic polish of PCars, but in the grand scheme of sim racing, that's just one aspect, and it's not at the top of the list for me.



Yeah... Easier is misleading, but I totally understand. The cars lose traction way too easy. Same car/track combo in the other titles produce similar results when taking the same line into the same corner--same speed, same gearing, no assists. If I turn off assists in PCars and try to do the same, I'm sliding off track. And it's not just corner entry. The grip levels feel wrong throughthe entire corner. :confused:. And don't get me started on the classics and historic cars. I hated pretty much all of them in PCars, thought it was an old vs new thing. But in other titles, they are so much fun to druve and feel so much more alive. Same limitations of classic/older cars, but they're a lot more fun now.

Even oversteering in pcars is weird. Normal corrections and saves that I would make in real life and other games only sort of work. Granted there are always ones that you just cant it even happens to pro drivers but in pcars it seems like the minute the back steps out more then a little bit your done in most cases. Some of the older cars in pcars are just horrible like the mustang. The brakes are horrible and it drives like it has 500hp not 300.

Fanapryde
14-12-2016, 14:27
The Ferraris FFB is reversed this is why it goes light at full lock, use realfeel and press right ctrl and 8 on the numpad and it will correct it, there are a few cars that suffer from this.
I must have a very special AMS copy (or PC).
Tried the CTRL 8, but it did not correct it, FFB then really felt reversed.
BTW, thanks to your hint I found the little arrow to close the full screen (only center screen though) in replay !
One more issue solved :)

Haiden
14-12-2016, 14:38
I have mine set up nicely just suffering from awful stuttering with a full grid, it's fine on my own but horrible when I am in the pack, pulling my hair out now as I have tried everything and I mean EVERYTHING to sort it, there is 20 odd of us in the weekly league and I am the only one suffering it, it's definitely my hardware/software but I just can't pinpoint it.

BTW we have a dedi server if you fancy any racing guys, look out for RWB Racing UK 1 & 2, there is racing most nights, just casual stuff and we have all the mods and tracks.

Have you tried increasing the fps limit in-game? They say raising it to 1.5x your actual refresh/V-Sync rate helps with stuttering.

Haiden
14-12-2016, 14:41
More or less. Some things work, others don't.
At a certain moment I had both side screens going dark (with some moving grey contours) in stead of the flickering white with grey contours.
Yesterday I checked integrity at Steam and after it replaced 5 files, I'm back to the flickering whites... :confused:
Also: if I look at replay in full screen, there is no way of getting out, but rebooting the PC.
The mirror in the Boxer is still oriented to the passenger seat too.



I'm really a bit overwhelmed by all in-file settings in AMS.
I saw realfeel in the files, no idea what it does, not even if I am using it or not ?
Going to try your suggestion anyway. Does it need to be done each time or is the setting saved ?

BTW: I installed the WTCC mod and noticed that ALL mirrors in ALL cars show a reversed view ! Really disturbing. Is there a way to change that ?
Thanks again mate, hope you agree that the Reiza forum is not so great. In the meantime still nobody else (not even from Reiza) gave me any further explanations.

You can adjust your mirrors using the Right-Ctrl + Arrow Keys, and Right-Shift + Arrows Keys. I think one adjusts the rear view, the other adjusts the side views. Can't remember which is which though.

Haiden
14-12-2016, 14:48
Even oversteering in pcars is weird. Normal corrections and saves that I would make in real life and other games only sort of work. Granted there are always ones that you just cant it even happens to pro drivers but in pcars it seems like the minute the back steps out more then a little bit your done in most cases. Some of the older cars in pcars are just horrible like the mustang. The brakes are horrible and it drives like it has 500hp not 300.

After playing PCars for so long, I'm amazed at how many wicked-nasty slides I've been able to catch and correct in other sims. Even when I lose it and slide off track, I'm still often able to wrestle it back under control in the grass and get back on track fairly quickly, or just avoid slamming into a wall and ruining the race.

morpwr
14-12-2016, 15:12
After playing PCars for so long, I'm amazed at how many wicked-nasty slides I've been able to catch and correct in other sims. Even when I lose it and slide off track, I'm still often able to wrestle it back under control in the grass and get back on track fairly quickly, or just avoid slamming into a wall and ruining the race.

That's the thing growing up driving rear wheel drive cars in the snow you get good at it. PCARS not so much lol other games react how I would expect. Ive had cars almost right sideways in the others and been able to save most of them because I don't even think about what I'm doing you just react to it because you know what to do.

FR-Alan
14-12-2016, 16:10
Dear all, i share with you this feeling and it even more noticiable cause i have no ffb and can compare more easily without a filter associated to a ffb. I think the différence comes to weight treatment and g force versus grip forces coming from the tires. This interaction feels wrong in pcars. In curve it s like the grip lose progressivly making the car floaty but in reality this force is always constant and at some point could not handle the g force generated by the weight of the car.

Haiden
14-12-2016, 17:34
That's the thing growing up driving rear wheel drive cars in the snow you get good at it. PCARS not so much lol other games react how I would expect. Ive had cars almost right sideways in the others and been able to save most of them because I don't even think about what I'm doing you just react to it because you know what to do.

Exactly, we used to spend hours throwing cars around empty mall lots after a big snow...LOL.

I spun a car a whole 360 in AMS, straightened it up and got back on the power as soon as the back end came around. And it wasn't even luck. I was totally aware of what was happening and could feel where the back end was and when to reverse the counter-steer and get back on the power. That's the whole reason I stayed with it and didn't take my hands of the wheel and give up. I watched that replay like 5 times...LOL

If I'd been playing PCars, I would have given up halfway through the spin...LOL

Another thing I feel in other titles, like AMS and rF2 is when your tires go from off track (grass or dirt) to tarmac, you really feel the grip snap back into wheel. PCars doesn't communicate this transition nearly as well. You feel the bump, driving over the curb, and the bumps cease, but that snap feeling of grip coming back isn't really there.

Haiden
14-12-2016, 18:12
What version realfeel did you install? and where did you download it from?


v.092 I got it from here.

https://www.rfactorcentral.com/detail.cfm?ID=Real%20Feel%20FFB%20Plugin


Haven't tried it yet, though. And the reviews were mixed. Maybe this weekend I'll boot it up. :confused: Have you seen a more recent version?

Edit: In fact, I think I'm going to uninstall it. I've haven't booted the game, since I copied the files. But I also haven't tried rF2 since I started playing AMS. I'd like to compare rF2's native FFB to AMS' before I run the plugin to get a point of reference.

Ignore that link. I think this plugin is actually for rF1. It doesn't say which on the page, but the more I look at it, the more I think it's the rF1. I think you're right. rF2 might have it built in, but I'm not sure why there's no .ini file for it. I'm not going to bother running it, until I can determine whether it's for 1 or 2.

Charger
14-12-2016, 18:45
Have you tried increasing the fps limit in-game? They say raising it to 1.5x your actual refresh/V-Sync rate helps with stuttering.

Funnily enough that suggestion was made today, I have tried with 150fps, letting it fly goes around 200fps, tried limiting to 60fps and tried with vsync on, will try 90fps later, it definitely feels like a timing issue, i thought it may be RAM so went to 1 stick but it's the same, tried 3 HD and SSD, disabled video recording, dropped shadows and blur, dropped graphics, updated chipset drivers, updated sound and GPU drivers, rolled back GPU drivers, turned off power saving, locked CPU with no boost, tried single screen and triples, windowed, full screen, windowed borders, Sweetfx all of them, no AA and 8 x AA, limited amount of visible cars, tried pure 180/360 and all the others, reinstalled game and did a vanilla test with disable music set wheel and drive, tried RAM at 1600/1866/2133/2400 etc etc.

It's not dropping frames at all, the CPU is 4790k stock, GTX970, 16GB 2400Mhz RAM, Antec HCG900 PSU, no overclocks, fairly fresh install of WIN 10, no A/V, no other programs apart from Steam and Discord.

It's drives lovely and smooth on a test day with just myself but the shit hits the fan with a loaded grid, I am at a loss, I do PC repairs for a living so I know my way around stuff but I am running out of options.

Going to try a few more things tonight so will report back, funny thing is it didn't do it at first, it's only been I think since the last update, such a great game but I am losing my hair over it lol.

I have run CPU, RAM and GPU tests, CPU isn't breaking a sweat, RAM usage is around 2.8GB and the GPU is chugging along nicely the only thing I noticed is load is at 99%?

Haiden
14-12-2016, 18:57
Funnily enough that suggestion was made today, I have tried with 150fps, letting it fly goes around 200fps, tried limiting to 60fps and tried with vsync on, will try 90fps later, it definitely feels like a timing issue, i thought it may be RAM so went to 1 stick but it's the same, tried 3 HD and SSD, disabled video recording, dropped shadows and blur, dropped graphics, updated chipset drivers, updated sound and GPU drivers, rolled back GPU drivers, turned off power saving, locked CPU with no boost, tried single screen and triples, windowed, full screen, windowed borders, Sweetfx all of them, no AA and 8 x AA, limited amount of visible cars, tried pure 180/360 and all the others, reinstalled game and did a vanilla test with disable music set wheel and drive, tried RAM at 1600/1866/2133/2400 etc etc.

It's not dropping frames at all, the CPU is 4790k stock, GTX970, 16GB 2400Mhz RAM, Antec HCG900 PSU, no overclocks, fairly fresh install of WIN 10, no A/V, no other programs apart from Steam and Discord.

It's drives lovely and smooth on a test day with just myself but the shit hits the fan with a loaded grid, I am at a loss, I do PC repairs for a living so I know my way around stuff but I am running out of options.

Going to try a few more things tonight so will report back, funny thing is it didn't do it at first, it's only been I think since the last update, such a great game but I am losing my hair over it lol.

I have run CPU, RAM and GPU tests, CPU isn't breaking a sweat, RAM usage is around 2.8GB and the GPU is chugging along nicely the only thing I noticed is load is at 99%?

Funny you say that. I used to be able to run the game in Windowed with no problems. But suddenly, after the update, I started getting stuttering in Windowed mode. I upped the fps limit to 90, and that help a lot. It's still not 1:1 as smooth as running it in full screen, but it's much better. When I tried setting the limit to 150, it was still stuttering. Hopefully 90 makes a difference for you.

GrimeyDog
14-12-2016, 20:11
That's the thing growing up driving rear wheel drive cars in the snow you get good at it. PCARS not so much lol other games react how I would expect. Ive had cars almost right sideways in the others and been able to save most of them because I don't even think about what I'm doing you just react to it because you know what to do.



I'm not having any probs with Pcars FFB feeling the Road weight transfer and catching slides... It actually feels very Natural and very very similar to RF2 with the + going to Pcars for having more/Better weight transfer feel.

Reading through the Post i would say the biggest diff is the FFB settings being used... The GPU tweeking you guys are doing is very similar to FFB tweeking...
Ex: you use super sampling to Boost the video image to higher than it will actually display on Screen to give better picture Quality...When the image is displayed on screen it has been reduced but shows a better picture quality...In contrast you cant take a low res image/Signal and boost it through the TV processors to be a high Res image without introducing artifacts and distortion... I see the FFB the same way when you use Low in car Masters your killing the FFB at the source then trying to boost it back up through other means which introduces artifacts and distortion into the FFB.... For me i find that Rfactor 2 and Pcars have a very similar FFB feel even the wheel weight between the 2 is very much the same.... I use the same on wheel FFB profile to play Pcars,RF2, AMS & R3E... i'm using 60% on wheel FFB for all... I think its more of a settings diff than it is a hardware diff...JMO:victorious:

Edit: I dont think that every 1 will ever agree on what settings to use...Low in car Masters, High in Car Masters or where GM FFB should be set....But i think that we all will agree that SMS pretty Much shot themselves in the Foot by releasing the game with No FFB Master blue print for people to follow...Even with the same FFB system where every 1 could follow their Own path If they had put out a clear FFB Blue print to follow Pcars would have been a Much much Bigger success than it was....I think they lost alot of sales and fan base because people got tiered of trying to figure the FFB out.

in the case of Pcars Open ended freedom of choice really hurt their sales and shortend the Life of Pcars 1...most people wanted to plug and play...I do hope they have a open tweeker FFB for Pcars 2 also but they also need a FFB template for every wheel for the people who don't want to be bothered tweeking.

Here's the riddle... AC,RF2,AMS,R3E those games FFB feels good out of the box with EVERY wheel No matter the brand:yes: Just set the GM FFB according to the wheel used adjust 1 or 2 in car settings and go Go Go....Hmmmm why is Pcars soooo different:confused:

morpwr
14-12-2016, 22:03
I'm not having any probs with Pcars FFB feeling the Road weight transfer and catching slides... It actually feels very Natural and very very similar to RF2 with the + going to Pcars for having more/Better weight transfer feel.

Reading through the Post i would say the biggest diff is the FFB settings being used... The GPU tweeking you guys are doing is very similar to FFB tweeking...
Ex: you use super sampling to Boost the video image to higher than it will actually display on Screen to give better picture Quality...When the image is displayed on screen it has been reduced but shows a better picture quality...In contrast you cant take a low res image/Signal and boost it through the TV processors to be a high Res image without introducing artifacts and distortion... I see the FFB the same way when you use Low in car Masters your killing the FFB at the source then trying to boost it back up through other means which introduces artifacts and distortion into the FFB.... For me i find that Rfactor 2 and Pcars have a very similar FFB feel even the wheel weight between the 2 is very much the same.... I use the same on wheel FFB profile to play Pcars,RF2, AMS & R3E... i'm using 60% on wheel FFB for all... I think its more of a settings diff than it is a hardware diff...JMO:victorious:

Edit: I dont think that every 1 will ever agree on what settings to use...Low in car Masters, High in Car Masters or where GM FFB should be set....But i think that we all will agree that SMS pretty Much shot themselves in the Foot by releasing the game with No FFB Master blue print for people to follow...Even with the same FFB system where every 1 could follow their Own path If they had put out a clear FFB Blue print to follow Pcars would have been a Much much Bigger success than it was....I think they lost alot of sales and fan base because people got tiered of trying to figure the FFB out.

in the case of Pcars Open ended freedom of choice really hurt their sales and shortend the Life of Pcars 1...most people wanted to plug and play...I do hope they have a open tweeker FFB for Pcars 2 also but they also need a FFB template for every wheel for the people who don't want to be bothered tweeking.

Here's the riddle... AC,RF2,AMS,R3E those games FFB feels good out of the box with EVERY wheel No matter the brand:yes: Just set the GM FFB according to the wheel used adjust 1 or 2 in car settings and go Go Go....Hmmmm why is Pcars soooo different:confused:

Grimey,
I don't change my wheel settings either for any game. In pcars its not that I cant feel those things I do. Honestly I think weight transfer is one of pcars really strong points but it gets lost in the floating above the road grip feel. Same goes for catching slides you can but its not nearly as easy as it should be. I haven't spent a lot of time with the new pedals in pcars though so that might help. They are a lot better then the t3papros even with the load cell. If I'm not mistaken I think someone said pcars2 wont need to be adjusted. I really think the only reason its so different is because the game wasnt ready for release and they had no choice. Saying it gave total freedom sounds like a good excuse for not finishing it. At this point pcars is what it is. We all learned a lot in the process and I wouldn't be on pc if it wasn't for pcars so in the end its all good. I would love to see what a wheel set up by someone from sms feels like though. There is no way they don't know. Can you imagine the pro drivers doing testing fiddling with the ffb for months while doing tire model testing for them. I don't think so...lol

BigDad
14-12-2016, 23:11
You can adjust your mirrors using the Right-Ctrl + Arrow Keys, and Right-Shift + Arrows Keys. I think one adjusts the rear view, the other adjusts the side views. Can't remember which is which though.

What The? I didn't know that, great, can't wait to try this out.

GrimeyDog
14-12-2016, 23:15
Grimey,
I don't change my wheel settings either for any game. In pcars its not that I cant feel those things I do. Honestly I think weight transfer is one of pcars really strong points but it gets lost in the floating above the road grip feel. Same goes for catching slides you can but its not nearly as easy as it should be. I haven't spent a lot of time with the new pedals in pcars though so that might help. They are a lot better then the t3papros even with the load cell. If I'm not mistaken I think someone said pcars2 wont need to be adjusted. I really think the only reason its so different is because the game wasnt ready for release and they had no choice. Saying it gave total freedom sounds like a good excuse for not finishing it. At this point pcars is what it is. We all learned a lot in the process and I wouldn't be on pc if it wasn't for pcars so in the end its all good. I would love to see what a wheel set up by someone from sms feels like though. There is no way they don't know. Can you imagine the pro drivers doing testing fiddling with the ffb for months while doing tire model testing for them. I don't think so...lol

thats the thing I'm Not losing grip feel...when i lose traction it feels sooo natural its just instinct to counter and throttle steer out of it.

But I agree for the good and the bad if Pcars wasn't what it was i wouldn't be on PC....Maybe i would because Sony pulled the bait and Switch for Fanatec wheel users:confused: i dunno but it all worked out for the best:o

Synystr
14-12-2016, 23:45
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6OWHiDy6BA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwtbGqPkGz4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ePvXlDUbas

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdI0Sauth4s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDmTfwSzPUs

This is why I love AMS. The variety is legendary.

Haiden
14-12-2016, 23:47
Grimey,
I don't change my wheel settings either for any game. In pcars its not that I cant feel those things I do. Honestly I think weight transfer is one of pcars really strong points but it gets lost in the floating above the road grip feel. Same goes for catching slides you can but its not nearly as easy as it should be. I haven't spent a lot of time with the new pedals in pcars though so that might help. They are a lot better then the t3papros even with the load cell. If I'm not mistaken I think someone said pcars2 wont need to be adjusted. I really think the only reason its so different is because the game wasnt ready for release and they had no choice. Saying it gave total freedom sounds like a good excuse for not finishing it. At this point pcars is what it is. We all learned a lot in the process and I wouldn't be on pc if it wasn't for pcars so in the end its all good. I would love to see what a wheel set up by someone from sms feels like though. There is no way they don't know. Can you imagine the pro drivers doing testing fiddling with the ffb for months while doing tire model testing for them. I don't think so...lol

That. The FFB is very communicative, and you can feel the grip--all the slip and weight transfer. But the car always feels like it's floating above the road. That's been a common complaint since the game came out. When I was on console, I didn't have anything to compare it to. But as soon as I switched to PC, I suddenly realized what everyone was complaining back at the launch, because I had other games to compare it to. PCars is the only sim I'm playing now that doesn't feel like the car is connected to the road. I've tried different settings from just about everyone, and the feeling has never been there. If it was, it would be really hard to get me out of that game.

Haiden
15-12-2016, 00:33
What The? I didn't know that, great, can't wait to try this out.

I screwed mine up by mistake and was only able to see the sky and a smidgen of the rooftops whizzing by...LOL.

BigDad
15-12-2016, 03:27
I screwed mine up by mistake and was only able to see the sky and a smidgen of the rooftops whizzing by...LOL.

I cant get it to work , no adjustment at all .Is there something that needs to be changed in the files or something to get it enabled?

Haiden
15-12-2016, 03:36
I cant get it to work , no adjustment at all .Is there something that needs to be changed in the files or something to get it enabled?

No. I just stumbled across it, because I mapped by arrow keys to move the seat (right/left=forward/back, up/down). I accidentally pressed the key combo and found it. It makes the same weird voice that you hear when you change the seat, "Seat, Seat, Seat, Seat, Seat" except it says, "Mirror, Mirror, Mirror, Mirror" LOL. Maybe try the key combo with whatever keys you have your seat movement mapped to?

Edit: I think that's how my mirrors got whacked. I didn't know that sound was a voice saying when I first start playing. And I think I once changed the mirrors by mistake, not realizing it was a different sound/word.... LOL

BigDad
15-12-2016, 04:40
No. I just stumbled across it, because I mapped by arrow keys to move the seat (right/left=forward/back, up/down). I accidentally pressed the key combo and found it. It makes the same weird voice that you hear when you change the seat, "Seat, Seat, Seat, Seat, Seat" except it says, "Mirror, Mirror, Mirror, Mirror" LOL. Maybe try the key combo with whatever keys you have your seat movement mapped to?

Edit: I think that's how my mirrors got whacked. I didn't know that sound was a voice saying when I first start playing. And I think I once changed the mirrors by mistake, not realizing it was a different sound/word.... LOL

Nope , not working on mine :( This would really help as the door mirrors are off a bit .

Haiden
15-12-2016, 11:24
Nope , not working on mine :( This would really help as the door mirrors are off a bit .

Oh, wait... I'm talking about the virtual mirrors that appear at the top. One of the arrow sets (up/down or left/right) controls the rear mirrors, the other controls the side view mirrors. I've never tried it with the actual vehicle mirrors. I usually drive with the side view virtual mirrors on, because my TV's tall enough that they're positioned up above and don't take up any view space in the windshield. Then I use actual in-car rear view for the rear.

Charger
15-12-2016, 12:19
Well an update on my stuttering.

I have had major stuttering which has essentially rendered this game useless and the league races virtually unplayable for me but I have now fixed it.

I won't go into detail of what i tried because the list is endless but basically on my system this game does not like WINDOWED mode at all, now I had tried full single screen before but this time it fixed it, butter smooth with over 25 cars on track, to test it I switched to single screen windowed and the stutter was instantly there.

Now this is a problem for me as I use triples and have the game spanned across all 3 using no borders so it emulates full screen and worked great up until the last update, I can't use Nvidia surround as I have a PLP configuration 26" centre 1920x1200 and 2 17" 1280x1024 flipped in portrait, I run a forced res in Windows of 3968x1200 and it lines up nicely.

Now anyone that has triples knows you just can't go back to single screen, it's just too small!

So how do I run the game in full screen with my set up? I remembered a program called SoftTH was used for DX9 games as I wanted to use this for Project Cars but couldn't because it's DX11, this program is basically a DX9.DLL file that replaces the game one and when you fire the game up it uses what you have set your res to in Windows and emulates it in game by giving you that drop down box in the config tool, I pick now 3968x1200 32bit and use full screen and widescreen UI and boom it fires up spanned perfectly!

No stutter and smooth as silk, result I can now compete and ran some races last night and can keep up woooooh!

Program in question is here.....http://www.softth.net/, this also has more functions for creating custom resolutions for mis matched monitors, it corrects any timing issues so if you are getting stutter especially on corners this program is for you or if you can make sure you run full screen.

One happy Charger

@Fanapryde, this program should allow you to span full screen GUI and fill those side monitors, just select the resolution then fullscreen and Widescreen GUI in the config after dropping the file in the root of the game.

BigDad
15-12-2016, 12:43
Oh, wait... I'm talking about the virtual mirrors that appear at the top. One of the arrow sets (up/down or left/right) controls the rear mirrors, the other controls the side view mirrors. I've never tried it with the actual vehicle mirrors. I usually drive with the side view virtual mirrors on, because my TV's tall enough that they're positioned up above and don't take up any view space in the windshield. Then I use actual in-car rear view for the rear.

Ah , well that explains it . I don't use virtual mirrors , takes away immersion . I usually dont have anything on screen unless im learning a new track on setting up a car .

Haiden
15-12-2016, 13:22
Ah , well that explains it . I don't use virtual mirrors , takes away immersion . I usually dont have anything on screen unless im learning a new track on setting up a car .

Same, but I can't see my side mirrors in some cars. Adding the virtual side mirrors doesn't ruin anything for me, since they'd be there in a real car. But that's why I don't use the virtual rear mirror. Also, racing online, I think it's best to turn them on, because you just don't have the same situational awareness as you would in RL, and every little bit counts. If I can't see the car behind preparing to overtake, I can't defend, and he'll find a gap. :)

BigDad
16-12-2016, 03:25
Same, but I can't see my side mirrors in some cars. Adding the virtual side mirrors doesn't ruin anything for me, since they'd be there in a real car. But that's why I don't use the virtual rear mirror. Also, racing online, I think it's best to turn them on, because you just don't have the same situational awareness as you would in RL, and every little bit counts. If I can't see the car behind preparing to overtake, I can't defend, and he'll find a gap. :)

Yeah, i use TrackIR 5 ao i can see my mirrors with the slight turn of my head. Takes a little getting used to but really quite useful.

Haiden
16-12-2016, 14:19
Yeah, i use TrackIR 5 ao i can see my mirrors with the slight turn of my head. Takes a little getting used to but really quite useful.

I might give that shot. I was kind of holding off, because I don't think I'll need it when I go to triples. That's next year, though. Might come in handy now.

morpwr
17-12-2016, 15:11
I cant get it to work , no adjustment at all .Is there something that needs to be changed in the files or something to get it enabled?

BigDad,
I need the automobilista experts help. Where do I put the three files for the historic pack once I unzip it. I got master mod pack and updates. Those where super easy to install. Just run them and put the path in. Got any other good mods?

Charger
17-12-2016, 15:49
You drop the game data and series into the folders, you have to copy the realfeel HX text from the doc into the main reelfeel ini in the root.

You joined our forum, there is a link to AMS mods there, EEC, Historic, Corvette C7, Caterham 500, most have been packaged up and are self install.

Fanapryde
17-12-2016, 15:55
@Fanapryde, this program should allow you to span full screen GUI and fill those side monitors, just select the resolution then fullscreen and Widescreen GUI in the config after dropping the file in the root of the game.

Well, at least my system does not cause AMS to stutter ... :)
And though it runs, it does not run like I think it should, but my knowledge about PC's is VERY basic, so I am a bit afraid to try all this, thinking it just might mess up something, forcing me to start all over...

A few days ago, I started the game and my cockpit view suddenly looked like this:

236515

Not so visible on the screenshot, but this is not what I normally have, side mirrors too big and the HUD elements on the side screen (something I do like, but don't manage to get).
I did not change a thing since I last used AMS.
Btw: this is how the screen looks when I leave track to menu. The white screens flicker at high frequency. (A few days ago they were black)...
I did ask on the Reiza forum if this was normal, but got no response:

236516

Stopped the game and went to check the config: turns out that I was in windowed mode (which I normally never use). How it got this setting is a riddle, since I am 100% sure I did not change it.
Moved it back to Multiview and it was normal again (HUD elements back on central screen and the side screens with normal, smaller mirrors.

Also: I get this error message each time I open the AMS config (was like that when I opened it the first time and still is):

236517

__________

Another question I asked at the Reiza forum (of course nobody answers...)

...../
In some cars, (always using cockpit view) the whole view is bouncing/shaking up and down, causing me upcoming nausea.
I'm on triple screen setup, screens pretty close to my eyes (about 55cm). I get that the effect would be less with big screens far from your face.

I don't mind the car/interior moving, but like IRL I would like the view being stable.
I suppose there is a way to fix it in the files, but I have no idea what/where to try.

I don't mean "horizon lock" causing the dash to move up and down when going up/downhill.

/....

Anyone here an idea please ?

Charger
17-12-2016, 16:36
I just responded to that in Reiza, there is an ingame setting in rates I think it is that allows you to turn off the shake and movement, I had to turn it off made my eyes bleed!

Fanapryde
17-12-2016, 16:43
I just responded to that in Reiza, there is an ingame setting in rates I think it is that allows you to turn off the shake and movement, I had to turn it off made my eyes bleed!
Yep, just read your answer, but I have these settings at zero, to no avail... World keeps jumping up and down. Don't know what that tries to replicate, since irl that never happens.

morpwr
17-12-2016, 17:43
You drop the game data and series into the folders, you have to copy the realfeel HX text from the doc into the main reelfeel ini in the root.

You joined our forum, there is a link to AMS mods there, EEC, Historic, T5, Corvette C7, Caterham 500, most have been packaged up and are self install.

Ok i have no idea what you mean by root. lol Im smart enough to be able to build the pc but im still learning how to use it. I wish i was like you guys and knew where everything was and what everything meant. But I'm getting there.Yeah that was great with the self install but the historic one didn't work like that. You get 3 files when you unzip it.

Fanapryde
17-12-2016, 18:51
I wish i was like you guys and knew where everything was and what everything meant.
LOL, I'm with you. Does not sound all natural to me either.

Charger
17-12-2016, 18:53
Unzip the 3 files and find the main install of Automobilista, there are folders in there that will match the ones you unzipped, usually vehicles, tracks and series files, copy each one into the matching folder, the text document realfeel.hx you open up with notepad or wordpad and copy the text then find the realfeel.ini folder in the list of files in the main install. about halfway down, open that up with notepad or wordpad and scroll to the bottom and paste the text you copied from the hx folder into the main one, the cars all pull the realfeel data from the main realfeel.ini.

You can always jump on our Discord server and there are guys there that can help as we all have done those mods, there is a link to the discord server on the main page, you don't have to download it.

https://discord.gg/MmtTXPA

Instant link for discord.

morpwr
17-12-2016, 21:30
LOL, I'm with you. Does not sound all natural to me either.

Once someone tells you and you see how to do it most of the stuff is pretty simple. But if you haven't done it before and don't know how. Luckily there is a great group of guys here to lend a hand.

Haiden
17-12-2016, 21:31
If you guys haven't played around with FrontGripEffect=0.000000 in the RealFeelPlugin.ini file, you should. It completely changes the way the tire feel and the way grip is communicated. I guess by default, the cars are only communicating a minimal amount of slip (lightening the wheel). If you take a car you know well, and edit that line in the .ini file to FrontGripEffect=0.200000 or FrontGripEffect=0.150000, you'll notice a big difference in the feel. Much smoother, and feels more like rubber tires. Also, you'll be able to run a little more SteeringForce, because of the slip effect. :)

Pick a few cars, find their entry in the RealFeelPlugin.ini file, and edit the FrontGripEffect until you get it dialed in to your liking. Once you know how much you like, you can go up to the top of the .ini file, and find the entries for the [General] settings. That's the template the file uses to create new entries when a new car is loaded that doesn't have an existing entry. You can edit the FrontGripEffect in the template entry so that new cars are created with your preferred value. You can do that for the other values, as well, but FrontGripEffect is the only one that isn't editable from the shortcut keys in game, so it's good to set it in the template.

morpwr
17-12-2016, 21:36
Unzip the 3 files and find the main install of Automobilista, there are folders in there that will match the ones you unzipped, usually vehicles, tracks and series files, copy each one into the matching folder, the text document realfeel.hx you open up with notepad or wordpad and copy the text then find the realfeel.ini folder in the list of files in the main install. about halfway down, open that up with notepad or wordpad and scroll to the bottom and paste the text you copied from the hx folder into the main one, the cars all pull the realfeel data from the main realfeel.ini.

You can always jump on our Discord server and there are guys there that can help as we all have done those mods, there is a link to the discord server on the main page, you don't have to download it.

https://discord.gg/MmtTXPA

Instant link for discord.

Thanks. I would have never figured that out on my own. I wish that one self installed too. The others where so easy. Its great having guys like you to help out.

BigDad
18-12-2016, 00:24
BigDad,
I need the automobilista experts help. Where do I put the three files for the historic pack once I unzip it. I got master mod pack and updates. Those where super easy to install. Just run them and put the path in. Got any other good mods?

Post #135 of this thread has a link to alot of good mods.
There are a few good tutorial vids on YouTube about installing mods. There are mods all over the net. Pretty messy. I wished they all used Steam workshop.
I use winrar (free trial, never ends). It works well.

Charger
18-12-2016, 00:39
Thanks. I would have never figured that out on my own. I wish that one self installed too. The others where so easy. Its great having guys like you to help out.

RWB Rodders did it to make an easy install, we have monthly mod updates. that one wasn't in the monthly so it was a self install, keep an eye out for more as we will have more mod updates, we do a lot of testing before putting them on the server.

morpwr
18-12-2016, 14:02
Post #135 of this thread has a link to alot of good mods.
There are a few good tutorial vids on YouTube about installing mods. There are mods all over the net. Pretty messy. I wished they all used Steam workshop.
I use winrar (free trial, never ends). It works well.

Ive watched the videos. Most are pretty simple but some like the historic one are more challenging where you have to copy and paste stuff. I know there are mods all over but you seem to have found mostly good ones. My biggest concern is downloading a virus or just plain crap. If its from racedepartment or a site like rwb you can be pretty confident in what youre downloading. I got 7zip. It seems to work ok. It would be so much easier if there was a single way to do these mods and I agree with the steam workshop.

morpwr
18-12-2016, 14:09
RWB Rodders did it to make an easy install, we have monthly mod updates. that one wasn't in the monthly so it was a self install, keep an eye out for more as we will have more mod updates, we do a lot of testing before putting them on the server.

I'm sure there are plenty that appreciate the work for making the mods self install. Myself included. Being new to the pc side and mods its tough. Having a site that you know has good mods is great. Ill definitely check back on the site.

Fanapryde
18-12-2016, 14:42
I'm sure there are plenty that appreciate the work for making the mods self install. Myself included. Being new to the pc side and mods its tough. Having a site that you know has good mods is great. Ill definitely check back on the site.
There is something like the Mod Installer app. Has somebody tried it ?
I managed to install all of Patrick G's tracks without any issue, but I failed to do so for several other tracks (and cars).
At first glance everything seems to be placed on the right spots, but for some reason they don't work.
Same thing for the RHM that I'd like to get rid of the awfull bouncing world in some cars.
I tried v1.3 which did not work (as with several other people), then tried the older 1.1 and that did not work either.
For people that are not really into PC's, Reiza seems to make it very difficult.
Mods in AC or even pCars are easy to install and I still have to encounter my first issue with these.

morpwr
18-12-2016, 15:07
There is something like the Mod Installer app. Has somebody tried it ?
I managed to install all of Patrick G's tracks without any issue, but I failed to do so for several other tracks (and cars).
At first glance everything seems to be placed on the right spots, but for some reason they don't work.
Same thing for the RHM that I'd like to get rid of the awfull bouncing world in some cars.
I tried v1.3 which did not work (as with several other people), then tried the older 1.1 and that did not work either.
For people that are not really into PC's, Reiza seems to make it very difficult.
Mods in AC or even pCars are easy to install and I still have to encounter my first issue with these.

I saw that but the reviews didn't look promising so I didn't bother with the installer. Figured now I have that not working on top of the mods.lol AC doesn't seem too bad but i still haven't got the ffb clipping tool to work. I think i have that figured out now that i know what the correct file is. Did anybody know there is a clipping bar in the pedals that's already in the game? I haven't tried any mods in pcars. Honestly i haven't played it much lately. Its pretty but there are better options at this point now that i switched to pc. I go back and try it once in a while but wind up switching back to something else. How do you like the pedals?

Haiden
18-12-2016, 15:15
Ive watched the videos. Most are pretty simple but some like the historic one are more challenging where you have to copy and paste stuff. I know there are mods all over but you seem to have found mostly good ones. My biggest concern is downloading a virus or just plain crap. If its from racedepartment or a site like rwb you can be pretty confident in what youre downloading. I got 7zip. It seems to work ok. It would be so much easier if there was a single way to do these mods and I agree with the steam workshop.


For people that are not really into PC's, Reiza seems to make it very difficult.
Mods in AC or even pCars are easy to install and I still have to encounter my first issue with these.

I don't think the problem is Reiza. I think it's the mod makers. The game's folder structure for mods isn't really that different from other games. Most of the AMS mods, when created and packaged correctly, are easy to install and work fine. But some modders are just being sloppy. I think it has something to do with the fact that much of AMS mod content is actually old rF1, rF2, or Stock Car Extreme. Some modders just aren't taking their time packing things up, or aren't aware of all the differences between the titles, and leaves things in their mods that cause conflicts.

Haiden
18-12-2016, 15:25
Also... FYI:

For mods or base content that includes a Talent folder, you can edit the files in that folder for each driver/team to change the AI behavior. They are saved as .rcd files, but you can open them with Notepad. It's a pretty straight forward file, with behaviors labeled plainly, as you can see below.


Felipe Mafra
{

// Driver stats
Aggression=76
Reputation=99
Courtesy=74
Composure=92
Speed=80
Crash=1
Recovery=5
CompletedLaps=95
MinRacingSkill=76
}

Coupled with the global difficulty settings, this gives you a crazy amount flexibility/options for creating some challenging races. :)

Roger Prynne
18-12-2016, 15:31
There isn't much to it really, as long as the modders keep the folder structure correct in the .zip/.rar etc.
Like GameData and Series are the main folders for example and then it's just a drag and drop.
Single folders are OK as well with just a drag and drop as the folder structure is quite simple to follow really, but much easier for novices to just have the main folders.

Roger Prynne
18-12-2016, 15:32
Also... FYI:

For mods or base content that includes a Talent folder, you can edit the files in that folder for each driver/team to change the AI behavior. They are saved as .rcd files, but you can open then with notepad. It's a pretty straight forward file, with behaviors labeled plainly, as you can see below.


Felipe Mafra
{

// Driver stats
Aggression=76
Reputation=99
Courtesy=74
Composure=92
Speed=80
Crash=1
Recovery=5
CompletedLaps=95
MinRacingSkill=76
}

Coupled with the global difficulty settings, this gives you a crazy amount flexibility/options for creating some challenging races. :)

Yep been playing with that for a while now. (I love tinkering) :encouragement:

Fanapryde
18-12-2016, 16:33
I just responded to that in Reiza, there is an ingame setting in rates I think it is that allows you to turn off the shake and movement, I had to turn it off made my eyes bleed!

Thanks for the help - again.
Problem solved.
I finally have RHM working. Downloaded and installed another version and for some reason it started working right away.
Finally I can race without motion sickness !
:encouragement:

Fanapryde
18-12-2016, 16:49
How do you like the pedals?
The HE PRo's ?
In one word: AWESOME !
The loadcells on the three pedals just feel great and the adjustable pedal force (up to 55kg for the brake) make you feel you are in a real car.. It adds so much to immersion... :encouragement:

FS7
18-12-2016, 19:22
I downloaded the EEC GT3 mod you guys were talking about, tried a few cars, and honestly I think this is another one of those "free unofficial DLC" packs. Everything seems very polished. The author says it's mainly for online racing but I'll try some offline races to see how good it is against AI.

About the mod install issues: I've never had any issues in AMS so far, just follow the good old "don't extract stuff directly to game folder" tip and you should be good to go.

morpwr
18-12-2016, 20:56
The HE PRo's ?
In one word: AWESOME !
The loadcells on the three pedals just feel great and the adjustable pedal force (up to 55kg for the brake) make you feel you are in a real car.. It adds so much to immersion... :encouragement:

I love how the brake is so easy to run right up to the edge of lockup or if you go over its really easy to just ease up and control. The gas pedal is so sensitive. I'm still getting used to not being able to rest your foot on it like the t3pa pros. How many times in the beginning did you find yourself going into a corner not realizing you still where stepping on the gas a little? Id have to say these feel about as close to a real car as you need. For not being hydraulic they did a good job simulating brake feel.

Fanapryde
18-12-2016, 21:04
I love how the brake is so easy to run right up to the edge of lockup or if you go over its really easy to just ease up and control. The gas pedal is so sensitive. I'm still getting used to not being able to rest your foot on it like the t3pa pros. How many times in the beginning did you find yourself going into a corner not realizing you still where stepping on the gas a little? Id have to say these feel about as close to a real car as you need. For not being hydraulic they did a good job simulating brake feel.
I calibrated some deadzone in them, using DiView. Did that after a few laps, when I found out the same things as you did...;)

Haiden
18-12-2016, 22:28
I downloaded the EEC GT3 mod you guys were talking about, tried a few cars, and honestly I think this is another one of those "free unofficial DLC" packs. Everything seems very polished. The author says it's mainly for online racing but I'll try some offline races to see how good it is against AI.

About the mod install issues: I've never had any issues in AMS so far, just follow the good old "don't extract stuff directly to game folder" tip and you should be good to go.

I agree. They're all pretty good. I think they might be rF2 or GSTE conversions, which might be why they are so well done. I've only been racing single player with them. The AI seems pretty good to me. I've had some good races.

Same about the mods. I haven't had any real trouble. Other than one or two that weren't in the right folder order. I always unzip the files to a local directory, and then drill into the folders to check the structure before copying them over. If you unpack it straight to the folder, you could end up with nested duplicate directories inside folders, which prevents it from working.

Haiden
18-12-2016, 22:36
Tried to upgrade my V3 pedals today with the performance kit. The f'ing locking screw for that holds the brake bolt in place is in there so tight I can't get it out. It's stripped in the hole. The screws on the clutch and throttle come out just fine (probably because I have absolutely no reason to remove them :mad:), but the brake screw is now stuck in there. And the position of it, make it impossible to get a stripped screw removing drill bit in there. :mad:

So I just wasted an afternoon--because you have to remove the pedal deck completely to make the upgrade--and now have an $80 performance kit I can't use.

That's the fourth f'ing screw that's stripped on those pedals because the factory tightened them too tight. I've had to drill out and replace three allen screws from the pedal plates. :mad:

Azure Flare
18-12-2016, 23:11
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fytCD0ytGqQ

Essential mod.

Roger Prynne
18-12-2016, 23:37
^ That's got to be one of the most annoying things I've ever heard.

morpwr
19-12-2016, 01:01
Tried to upgrade my V3 pedals today with the performance kit. The f'ing locking screw for that holds the brake bolt in place is in there so tight I can't get it out. It's stripped in the hole. The screws on the clutch and throttle come out just fine (probably because I have absolutely no reason to remove them :mad:), but the brake screw is now stuck in there. And the position of it, make it impossible to get a stripped screw removing drill bit in there. :mad:

So I just wasted an afternoon--because you have to remove the pedal deck completely to make the upgrade--and now have an $80 performance kit I can't use.

That's the fourth f'ing screw that's stripped on those pedals because the factory tightened them too tight. I've had to drill out and replace three allen screws from the pedal plates. :mad:

If you have a dremel cut a slot in it with a cutoff wheel and use a flat blade screw driver. Some valve grinding compound can give you some extra grip. Napa stores should still carry it. Are they locktited? If so some heat will help. Maybe lay a soldering iron on it for a few minutes till its hot. Obviously youre not going to want to use an open flame on those pedals.lol Or maybe you do at this point.

Haiden
19-12-2016, 01:19
^ That's got to be one of the most annoying things I've ever heard.

It's was equally annoying listening to him during the season. :)

Haiden
19-12-2016, 01:22
If you have a dremel cut a slot in it with a cutoff wheel and use a flat blade screw driver. Some valve grinding compound can give you some extra grip. Napa stores should still carry it. Are they locktited? If so some heat will help. Maybe lay a soldering iron on it for a few minutes till its hot. Obviously youre not going to want to use an open flame on those pedals.lol Or maybe you do at this point.

I might try and work a slot into it and try a flat head. Problem is, it's a grub screw and the head is flush with the surrounding casting. I can't cut into it without cutting the brake casting. But I might be able to grind a slot into it. Slow process, but can't think of anything else at this point.

BigDad
19-12-2016, 01:27
Ive watched the videos. Most are pretty simple but some like the historic one are more challenging where you have to copy and paste stuff. I know there are mods all over but you seem to have found mostly good ones. My biggest concern is downloading a virus or just plain crap. If its from racedepartment or a site like rwb you can be pretty confident in what youre downloading. I got 7zip. It seems to work ok. It would be so much easier if there was a single way to do these mods and I agree with the steam workshop.

Sorry my bad , i use Winarchiver not winrar,lol
When i first started installing mods i was putting the files , say series, inside the series files (too deep) and nothing would work ,then after some more investigating it turned out if it says series then you only need to put it in the root (Automobilista/ not Automobilista/series). But for something like AC mods you need to go further inside to locations or cars/vehicles .
For rFactor 2 you just open the rFactor2 file and high lite the packages file and drag and drop in there . Then when you start the game in the Launcher you go to content and find the mod and click install and your done .That's for stuff not on Steam.
I've downloaded everything from everywhere being pretty concerned for viruses but as long as i scan for viruses before installing then ,so far so good . I have had to delete quite a few peices of crap mods and keeps one or two that probably should be binned but i like the tracks (Longbeach and Surfers for rFactor 2) probably COTA aswell .lol those shadows at night suck .

BigDad
19-12-2016, 01:35
^ That's got to be one of the most annoying things I've ever heard.

Agree . It was funny (at first ) listening to him whine during the race but then he just kept crying like a little (insert your own word) for every race and now have him in our Sims at home , NO WAY! lol

Haiden
19-12-2016, 03:02
Agree . It was funny (at first ) listening to him whine during the race but then he just kept crying like a little (insert your own word) for every race and now have him in our Sims at home , NO WAY! lol

It's sad, dude. I've always liked Seb, but this season he was getting on my nerves. I get the Ferrari is putting to much pressure on them, but look at Kimi. Same team, same pressure, cool as ice. :)

BigDad
19-12-2016, 03:47
It's sad, dude. I've always liked Seb, but this season he was getting on my nerves. I get the Ferrari is putting to much pressure on them, but look at Kimi. Same team, same pressure, cool as ice. :)

IceMan rocks. But Dan Ric for World Champion.

Fanapryde
19-12-2016, 08:41
Tried to upgrade my V3 pedals today with the performance kit. The f'ing locking screw for that holds the brake bolt in place is in there so tight I can't get it out. It's stripped in the hole. The screws on the clutch and throttle come out just fine (probably because I have absolutely no reason to remove them :mad:), but the brake screw is now stuck in there. And the position of it, make it impossible to get a stripped screw removing drill bit in there. :mad:

So I just wasted an afternoon--because you have to remove the pedal deck completely to make the upgrade--and now have an $80 performance kit I can't use.

That's the fourth f'ing screw that's stripped on those pedals because the factory tightened them too tight. I've had to drill out and replace three allen screws from the pedal plates. :mad:
Which is one of the reasons I sold mine.
They are great looking, they work rather well (keeping the price tag in mind), but the build quality is really not up to par. They are supposed to be very serviceable, but in fact they are not, due to low quality nuts and bolts.
I had a squeaking clutch and could not cure it by just lubricating. So I tried do disassemble it, but i stripped the allen bolt (using a new and perfectly fitting allen key) on one side. Had to use the Dremel to make a slot.
I replaced the bolt by a new one with a bigger extruding head and did the same on the other side after I finally managed to loosen that one...
When I tried to disassemble the brake to lubricate the foam inside, the same thing happened ... :sour:

I then sold them to a guy who has now a V3 set with quality bolts...
But after all I'm glad it happened. Wouldn't be racing with Heusinvelds otherwise... :encouragement:
Build quality and serviceability is ...times higher. Also considering their feel they are easily worth the extra investment over V3's.

BTW: just bought the AMS Brit Pack. Caterhams are SUPER ! MCR's too, don't like the Ultima road versions...

Dan77 DESTROYER
19-12-2016, 09:49
Which is one of the reasons I sold mine.
They are great looking, they work rather well (keeping the price tag in mind), but the build quality is really not up to par. They are supposed to be very serviceable, but in fact they are not, due to low quality nuts and bolts.
I had a squeaking clutch and could not cure it by just lubricating. So I tried do disassemble it, but i stripped the allen bolt (using a new and perfectly fitting allen key) on one side. Had to use the Dremel to make a slot.
I replaced the bolt by a new one with a bigger extruding head and did the same on the other side after I finally managed to loosen that one...
When I tried to disassemble the brake to lubricate the foam inside, the same thing happened ... :sour:

I then sold them to a guy who has now a V3 set with quality bolts...
But after all I'm glad it happened. Wouldn't be racing with Heusinvelds otherwise... :encouragement:
Build quality and serviceability is ...times higher. Also considering their feel they are easily worth the extra investment over V3's.

BTW: just bought the AMS Brit Pack. Caterhams are SUPER ! MCR's too, don't like the Ultima road versions...


Sounds like a right ballache with those pedals and something you wouldn't expect from an all metal build, I won't be upgrading to those if that is the result of disassembling them. How much are the Heusinvelds?

Caterhams are really good fun :) especially around oulton park ,the 620 R is a beast

Fanapryde
19-12-2016, 10:43
Sounds like a right ballache with those pedals and something you wouldn't expect from an all metal build, I won't be upgrading to those if that is the result of disassembling them. How much are the Heusinvelds?

http://www.h-engineering.net/shop/sim-pedals-pro/

About the double of the V3's, but well worth it imo.

morpwr
19-12-2016, 10:45
Sorry my bad , i use Winarchiver not winrar,lol
When i first started installing mods i was putting the files , say series, inside the series files (too deep) and nothing would work ,then after some more investigating it turned out if it says series then you only need to put it in the root (Automobilista/ not Automobilista/series). But for something like AC mods you need to go further inside to locations or cars/vehicles .
For rFactor 2 you just open the rFactor2 file and high lite the packages file and drag and drop in there . Then when you start the game in the Launcher you go to content and find the mod and click install and your done .That's for stuff not on Steam.
I've downloaded everything from everywhere being pretty concerned for viruses but as long as i scan for viruses before installing then ,so far so good . I have had to delete quite a few peices of crap mods and keeps one or two that probably should be binned but i like the tracks (Longbeach and Surfers for rFactor 2) probably COTA aswell .lol those shadows at night suck .


So thats why the historic car mods don't work? I put the series in the series file? I need to just drop it in the automobilista specific file. I can see the car set but when I highlight it nothing happens.

morpwr
19-12-2016, 10:49
http://www.h-engineering.net/shop/sim-pedals-pro/

About the double of the V3's, but well worth it imo.

I know ive read reviews from guys that had v3s and still said they where a huge improvement. It wouldn't be so bad in the states if it wasn't for the exchange and shipping. It adds about 100 dollars to the cost but they are still a steal at the price. Some other pedals are 300-500 dollars more then these and I didn't see the point. Just more stuff to go wrong in some of the other high end sets. But that's just my opinion. They are super easy to work on too which makes a big difference if you want to change things.

morpwr
19-12-2016, 11:02
I might try and work a slot into it and try a flat head. Problem is, it's a grub screw and the head is flush with the surrounding casting. I can't cut into it without cutting the brake casting. But I might be able to grind a slot into it. Slow process, but can't think of anything else at this point.

You might want to try the soldering iron if you have one. If they locktited the screw a little heat will do wonders. Just lay it in the allen hole and let it sit like that for a bit then try it. The valve grinding compound trick would probably work for the allen too. Ive never tried it like that usually its for a phillips or slotted screw but it works wonders. Usually the extra bite from the compound will either take out the screw or break the head of the screwdriver off.lol And that's with a snap on screwdriver. Obviously if the screw is just screwed (no pun intended) nothing is going to work but the valve grinding compound has saved me a lot of work many times. Its one of those old timer tricks that just works. One other thing there are good allens and cheap ones. The tool makes a big difference and isn't always the screws fault. The smaller the screw the bigger that issue becomes. One other thing that might help before you cut the slot and ive done many times. Find a torqs bit that you can gently beat into the allen. The points line up and sometimes that works too. These are the things you learn when you fix rusty pos cars for a living.lol


P.s. if they used blue locktite on screws that small they should be beaten.lol It really needs a little heat then to break free. If it was a bigger screw like 6-8mm it wouldn't be an issue. If you have an issue with the set screws loosening up file the bottoms flat. If you look at the bottom of a setscrew usually they are concave so youre really only using the edge to lock it down.

Haiden
19-12-2016, 11:28
So thats why the historic car mods don't work? I put the series in the series file? I need to just drop it in the automobilista specific file. I can see the car set but when I highlight it nothing happens.

If you leave the files in their parent folder (moving the folder, instead of the individual files), you have to drop the folder in one level up, usually the root Automobilista folder.

Haiden
19-12-2016, 12:05
Which is one of the reasons I sold mine.
They are great looking, they work rather well (keeping the price tag in mind), but the build quality is really not up to par. They are supposed to be very serviceable, but in fact they are not, due to low quality nuts and bolts.
I had a squeaking clutch and could not cure it by just lubricating. So I tried do disassemble it, but i stripped the allen bolt (using a new and perfectly fitting allen key) on one side. Had to use the Dremel to make a slot.
I replaced the bolt by a new one with a bigger extruding head and did the same on the other side after I finally managed to loosen that one...
When I tried to disassemble the brake to lubricate the foam inside, the same thing happened ... :sour:

I then sold them to a guy who has now a V3 set with quality bolts...
But after all I'm glad it happened. Wouldn't be racing with Heusinvelds otherwise... :encouragement:
Build quality and serviceability is ...times higher. Also considering their feel they are easily worth the extra investment over V3's.

BTW: just bought the AMS Brit Pack. Caterhams are SUPER ! MCR's too, don't like the Ultima road versions...


I know ive read reviews from guys that had v3s and still said they where a huge improvement. It wouldn't be so bad in the states if it wasn't for the exchange and shipping. It adds about 100 dollars to the cost but they are still a steal at the price. Some other pedals are 300-500 dollars more then these and I didn't see the point. Just more stuff to go wrong in some of the other high end sets. But that's just my opinion. They are super easy to work on too which makes a big difference if you want to change things.

IDK, if I'd say the V3 are of poor build quality. Actually, I wouldn't. They're great for consumer products. Heusinvelds are just a few steps above the consumer line. So obviously there's a big difference. But the other than the screw issue I've had, the V3 pedals have been fine. This screw is only a problem, because of how small it is and how difficult it is to reach/extract. The others, although annoying, have been little more than a small inconvenience (extract and replace). :)

I'll eventually upgrade to the Heusinvelds, but I need to upgrade my rig first, and that probably won't happen until next year when I get my spare room back. I want to get triple screens and buttkickers, too, which increase the immersion factor. I don't have those things yet, and I think at least the rig and triples need to come first. Although, I am debating the triple screen deal, whether to hold off or not. My 55" is mounted and I like the screen height of it. It allows me to set a very realistic FOV, not just in sense of distance, but also the actually view of the car interior. I can see much more of it than I've ever seen on any triple screen setup, because monitors simply don't have the height as TVs. That being said, I'm definiltey not going to go with a triple TV setup running 60Hz across the board. But with the next gen VR headsets coming maybe end of next year or early 2018, I wonder how much use I'll get out of the triples. The whole point of going to triples is realistic FOV and immersion. But if I'm gonna spend more time on VR than triples, then I should just keep the 55", which, in that case, only leaves the rig upgrade, and I could do that and the pedals a lot sooner. :) So many decisions. :confused:

F'ck... First World problems. Somewhere, right now, there's a kid beginning his morning multi-mile walk to nearest fresh water point. Me, I'm drinking coffee, and have a sim dilemma. :hopelessness:

BigDad
19-12-2016, 12:07
So thats why the historic car mods don't work? I put the series in the series file? I need to just drop it in the automobilista specific file. I can see the car set but when I highlight it nothing happens.

I do believe that was your problem . Some Mods are pretty straight forward , as in they are structured so that you can just put the whole "parent"lol folder into the Automobilista folder and others mods have two or three layers before you get to the files you need so you do need to put them in seperately .
Game data and series files you just put straight into the first part(but you still need to click highlight them or the whole file goes in anyway) , in this case Automobilista (you dont need to open it just click it so it is highlighted) but other times you need to go and just click the location or vehicle file don't open em just click on em.
I find this pretty hard to explain in text , i wish i could chat to you as it would be so much easier to go step by step .
Anyway you should get it . I fuuced it up quite a few times , put the file in , test , not working , delete try again a little differently each time until it worked .
I still put it in the wrong hole... err.. spot sometimes.

BigDad
19-12-2016, 12:10
So thats why the historic car mods don't work? I put the series in the series file? I need to just drop it in the automobilista specific file. I can see the car set but when I highlight it nothing happens.

Also that Automobilista specific file is what they refer to as the Root .

morpwr
19-12-2016, 13:41
I do believe that was your problem . Some Mods are pretty straight forward , as in they are structured so that you can just put the whole "parent"lol folder into the Automobilista folder and others mods have two or three layers before you get to the files you need so you do need to put them in seperately .
Game data and series files you just put straight into the first part(but you still need to click highlight them or the whole file goes in anyway) , in this case Automobilista (you dont need to open it just click it so it is highlighted) but other times you need to go and just click the location or vehicle file don't open em just click on em.
I find this pretty hard to explain in text , i wish i could chat to you as it would be so much easier to go step by step .
Anyway you should get it . I fuuced it up quite a few times , put the file in , test , not working , delete try again a little differently each time until it worked .
I still put it in the wrong hole... err.. spot sometimes.

Lmao I wanna reply to that so bad but I'm going to keep it clean.lol Yeah I just figured out I put the extra unnecessary realfeel files in too I should have just put the hx one in. Eventually ill get it.lol After yesterdays ordeal I wont give up.lol Ive been having weird issues ever since this last round of windows updates but didn't pay much attention until yesterday. Turned on the pc plugged in my wheel and it loses the firmware.:mad: Just went dead. wtf? So get out my laptop and fix that. Then on to the pc. Found asus had multiple updates for the chipset,bios and vga but those I don't need because I have the gtx.And they all came out about the same time as the windows updates. So update all that and I think I'm back up and running now.

BigDad
19-12-2016, 13:50
Lmao I wanna reply to that so bad but I'm going to keep it clean.lol Yeah I just figured out I put the extra unnecessary realfeel files in too I should have just put the hx one in. Eventually ill get it.lol After yesterdays ordeal I wont give up.lol Ive been having weird issues ever since this last round of windows updates but didn't pay much attention until yesterday. Turned on the pc plugged in my wheel and it loses the firmware.:mad: Just went dead. wtf? So get out my laptop and fix that. Then on to the pc. Found asus had multiple updates for the chipset,bios and vga but those I don't need because I have the gtx.And they all came out about the same time as the windows updates. So update all that and I think I'm back up and running now.

Yeah keep it clean , just wipe it off (your HDD) when you pull it out . All clean.

I read somewhere Asus programs causing troubles ? That was when i had my second 1070 Asus . I didnt have any problems with programs just faulty GPU but did read it somewhere .

morpwr
19-12-2016, 14:00
Yeah keep it clean , just wipe it off (your HDD) when you pull it out . All clean.

I read somewhere Asus programs causing troubles ? That was when i had my second 1070 Asus . I didnt have any problems with programs just faulty GPU but did read it somewhere .

Yes there were serious problems with the last ai suite. Caused all sorts of errors. The new one seems to work ok and I haven't seen a lot of issues with it on forums. That was one of the things that quit working though. I should be able to update the bios through that and couldn't after the windows updates.

Haiden
19-12-2016, 14:50
Lmao I wanna reply to that so bad but I'm going to keep it clean.lol Yeah I just figured out I put the extra unnecessary realfeel files in too I should have just put the hx one in. Eventually ill get it.lol After yesterdays ordeal I wont give up.lol Ive been having weird issues ever since this last round of windows updates but didn't pay much attention until yesterday. Turned on the pc plugged in my wheel and it loses the firmware.:mad: Just went dead. wtf? So get out my laptop and fix that. Then on to the pc. Found asus had multiple updates for the chipset,bios and vga but those I don't need because I have the gtx.And they all came out about the same time as the windows updates. So update all that and I think I'm back up and running now.

The dropped firmware may not really be a bug/problem, though. It might have been due to changes in the Windows code that conflicted with the driver and, in turn, required the firmware to be reinstalled. So the TM driver control panel wiped the firmware, so you could reapply it. Not saying that's the case, but the PC driver communicates with the device running through Windows and then through the firmware. Change the way Windows works with the driver, and a firmware reinstall might be needed. Sometimes, computers do the right thing, but don't explain themselves well or at all. :)

morpwr
19-12-2016, 14:55
The dropped firmware may not really be a bug/problem, though. It might have been due to changes in the Windows code that conflicted with the driver and, in turn, required the firmware to be reinstalled. So the TM driver control panel wiped the firmware, so you could reapply it. Not saying that's the case, but the PC driver communicates with the device running through Windows and then through the firmware. Change the way Windows works with the driver, and a firmware reinstall might be needed. Sometimes, computers do the right thing, but don't explain themselves well or at all. :)

That makes sense because the wheel started working weird before it happened. It would turn on but act like you had the master set way high. Yeah usually mine say nothing lol just goes:playful:

Haiden
19-12-2016, 18:51
Has anyone else run into problems the Mini Challenge series that came with the base install? I can get mine to load. The progress bar stops about 2 inches from the end and just stalls. :confused:

Charger
19-12-2016, 19:58
Works fine here, we did a night in them, good fun, have you tried verifying the Steam Cache, AMS seems to reacquire files quite regularly.

Haiden
19-12-2016, 21:06
Works fine here, we did a night in them, good fun, have you tried verifying the Steam Cache, AMS seems to reacquire files quite regularly.

I've done that a few times, but don't know if the Mini issue was always there or not. So I'll give the verify another shot. Sucks, though, because I figured the Minis were fun and want to give them a shot. There are a few tracks that they would be perfect for. :)

Fanapryde
19-12-2016, 21:38
No issue with the Mini's here. They are great fun :)

Roger Prynne
19-12-2016, 23:45
No probs here either.

BigDad
20-12-2016, 00:22
All good here! FWD feels remarkably good compared to pCars FWD.

Rambo_Commando
20-12-2016, 04:07
I really wish this game came out for consoles. I've driven the Formula V10 and I really enjoy it. The game reminded me of the Geoff Crammond days. I'm really hoping Reiza studios get approached to make the next set of F1 games.

Haiden
20-12-2016, 04:16
I really wish this game came out for consoles. I've driven the Formula V10 and I really enjoy it. The game reminded me of the Geoff Crammond days. I'm really hoping Reiza studios get approached to make the next set of F1 games.

Same. I got AMS and F1 2016 at the same time, about a month ago. I have yet to play F1 2016. There are so many open wheelers in AMS, and they are all pretty awesome. The GP2 mods, the F1 2016 mod, and the all the mods from the 90s to present are just so well done. When I first tried the F1 2016 mod, I was like, damn... I should have waited to get F1 2016...LOL

Rambo_Commando
20-12-2016, 07:29
Same. I got AMS and F1 2016 at the same time, about a month ago. I have yet to play F1 2016. There are so many open wheelers in AMS, and they are all pretty awesome. The GP2 mods, the F1 2016 mod, and the all the mods from the 90s to present are just so well done. When I first tried the F1 2016 mod, I was like, damn... I should have waited to get F1 2016...LOL

After driving the Formula v10, F1 2016 cars feel like your sailing a boat.