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Randy
09-03-2017, 00:30
Hi All! Just received and built my new Fanatec Clubsport V2.5 base w/V3 Pedals. The base is recognized in 1 device controller correctly (pnp Windows 10), but assigning the V2 base Fanatec option in Project Cars (as there is no V2.5 yet), neither the wheel or pedals respond or are recognized.

Is it possible the brand new V2.5 unit is not yet supported in the game? Hope not! I haven't tried updating firmware yet as I'm thinking since the unit is brand new, the firmware would be up-to-date. Maybe that's wrong!....

Anyone else that's possibly just received a new V2.5 base having the same issues?

Thanks~
Randy

Mahjik
09-03-2017, 01:13
Can you go into the "Edit Assignments" page and assign the proper controls/axis for steering and pedals?

Sankyo
09-03-2017, 06:44
Hi All! Just received and built my new Fanatec Clubsport V2.5 base w/V3 Pedals. The base is recognized in 1 device controller correctly (pnp Windows 10), but assigning the V2 base Fanatec option in Project Cars (as there is no V2.5 yet), neither the wheel or pedals respond or are recognized.

Is it possible the brand new V2.5 unit is not yet supported in the game? Hope not! I haven't tried updating firmware yet as I'm thinking since the unit is brand new, the firmware would be up-to-date. Maybe that's wrong!....

Anyone else that's possibly just received a new V2.5 base having the same issues?

Thanks~
RandyThe CSW v2.5 is not specifically available as a preset in pCARS, simply because it did not exist when the game was made and the game hasn't been patched to support it. That's also not necessary, though, because it's still a CSW v2 in essence so it should work just fine if you select the CSW v2 preset manually in the game and then assign and calibrate the wheel and pedals as Mahjik already indicated in his reply.

charliev69
09-03-2017, 08:25
Hi Randy , you should update the firmware for sure , also make sure you use the stronger springs in your V3 pedals , they will feel so much more natural to the default red springs .

GrimeyDog
09-03-2017, 11:45
Hi All! Just received and built my new Fanatec Clubsport V2.5 base w/V3 Pedals. The base is recognized in 1 device controller correctly (pnp Windows 10), but assigning the V2 base Fanatec option in Project Cars (as there is no V2.5 yet), neither the wheel or pedals respond or are recognized.

Is it possible the brand new V2.5 unit is not yet supported in the game? Hope not! I haven't tried updating firmware yet as I'm thinking since the unit is brand new, the firmware would be up-to-date. Maybe that's wrong!....

Anyone else that's possibly just received a new V2.5 base having the same issues?

Thanks~
Randy

I got My 2.5 wednesday...You can use the V2 wheel profile but you Need to update the Base and Reassign all the Buttons... Gas, Brake etc... I went from V2 to V2.5 and all the Buton Have to be Re Mapped!!! the Button Mapping is Not the same between V2 & V2.5!!!

charliev69
09-03-2017, 14:16
Hi Grimey

How does the V2.5 compare to the V2 's ?
Also ... which Dri mode are you using ?

RomKnight
09-03-2017, 15:47
Advanced Dri mode seems to be even more "intrusive". I don't want software trying to "work" for me/ffb. FFB should come from physics (the simulator) not from some "guessing" of the HW.

Maybe it's fine tuned and it's now better than "normal" Dri in cswv1 and v2 but it's still adding drag/acceleration to the wheel. Why do we want that currently. This is where pC1 settings made all the difference in the consumer wheels if you ask me, namely PWM (and DRR/DRF as well).

But this is me wanting another excuse for a DD wheel :D

Randy
09-03-2017, 19:38
Thanks everyone~ The reason I haven't replied sooner is I was finally sleeping after the "24 hrs of Le Hell". I won't burden everyone with the details, but being new to Fanatec, and to PC, I had/have a lot to learn!

Anyway, I was finally able to get the 2.5 base and V3 pedals recognised. Definitely needed to update firmware first, but the power went out while I was installing the driver 2.73 64bit package LOL.....So, I ended formatting and starting over. Now, the Fanatec properties indicate the Wheel and pedals are responding correctly. I ended up only able to configure the wheel & pedals connected together (not seperately USB connected). PC recognises and "appears" to calibrate both the base and pedals also, but when I actually enter a practice session, the Throttle pedal does nothing and the accelerator is always full bore on, the brake works, but barely. Depressing the clutch just makes the engine rev at top rpm.

Since the wheel and pedal properties appear to be working correctly, I'm ass-uming there's a disconnect in PC, especially since calibration within PC appears to work correctly (pressing each pedal to 100 and save works with each pedal correctly). But as I said, when I actually get in a driving situation (out of the pits), the accelerator is wide open and the throttle pedal unresponsive, the brake works, but is only counteracting the acceleration, and doesn't slow the car, and the clutch is pretty much useless as the engine just revs when depressed (like me!).....

Any ideas? Or anyone had a similar problem?

Thanks!
Randy

charliev69
09-03-2017, 20:35
Thanks everyone~ The reason I haven't replied sooner is I was finally sleeping after the "24 hrs of Le Hell". I won't burden everyone with the details, but being new to Fanatec, and to PC, I had/have a lot to learn!

Anyway, I was finally able to get the 2.5 base and V3 pedals recognised. Definitely needed to update firmware first, but the power went out while I was installing the driver 2.73 64bit package LOL.....So, I ended formatting and starting over. Now, the Fanatec properties indicate the Wheel and pedals are responding correctly. I ended up only able to configure the wheel & pedals connected together (not seperately USB connected). PC recognises and "appears" to calibrate both the base and pedals also, but when I actually enter a practice session, the Throttle pedal does nothing and the accelerator is always full bore on, the brake works, but barely. Depressing the clutch just makes the engine rev at top rpm.

Since the wheel and pedal properties appear to be working correctly, I'm ass-uming there's a disconnect in PC, especially since calibration within PC appears to work correctly (pressing each pedal to 100 and save works with each pedal correctly). But as I said, when I actually get in a driving situation (out of the pits), the accelerator is wide open and the throttle pedal unresponsive, the brake works, but is only counteracting the acceleration, and doesn't slow the car, and the clutch is pretty much useless as the engine just revs when depressed (like me!).....

Any ideas? Or anyone had a similar problem?

Thanks!
Randy

Hi Randy , I think you need to choose the CSW v2 SEPARATE PEDALS preset in game , then assign axis in game config screen , ( where it asks you for input on chosen axis )

Hope this helps

:)

Randy
09-03-2017, 20:55
Hi Randy , I think you need to choose the CSW v2 SEPARATE PEDALS preset in game , then assign axis in game config screen , ( where it asks you for input on chosen axis )

Hope this helps

:)

Thanks Charlie =). Are you saying I should connect both the wheel and pedals USB rather than combined, and then select seperate in the game? Or do you mean I should just try leaving them combined and setting seperate pedals in the game?

GrimeyDog
09-03-2017, 21:12
Hi Grimey

How does the V2.5 compare to the V2 's ?
Also ... which Dri mode are you using ?


To be 100% Fair with a opinion of the v2.5 i will give My self a few more days to used to it...I've only used it maybe 1 hour or so and i found my self frustrated that the thumb stick will not work to move the menu so it makes it hard to play in VR...which lead Me to promptly hook back up My v2.

also i will wait until the next Dr/FW for the v2.5 is released because Dr_273/Fw_245 seems a little buggy...Ex: when I'm done gaming and i shut the wheel off i have to restart the PC to be able to access the Fanatec Wheel property page...so something is definitely off some where DR or FW???


I put the v2.5 back on and as i use it these are My initial thoughts... there seems to be a tad bit more Subtle Crisper FFB Feel and also the FFB seems to Ramp up Power in smoother steps...Ex v2.5 = 123456789 -VS- v2=13579 ...note the tad bit increase in subtle FFB feel could be a placeebo effect of the more balanced/smoother FFB ramp up.

Im using exact same tweek and same on wheel settings both wheel....I'm not use Dri on the v2 i dont plan on using Dri on the v2.5...i don't notice any uncomfortable drag in the v2 wheel but the center of the v2.5 does feel like it could be more Nimble.
both wheels i leave a default settings other than FFB @50%, ABS 55, BrF 100

I'm hoping that the next v2.5_ DR/FW is better Done better because the launch FW is a bit Buggy ...I trust it will be the v2 FW got much better with most of the updates...My v2 i use Dr_250/ Fw_176 for Me this has the best feel.

Randy
10-03-2017, 03:29
Thanks Charlie =). Are you saying I should connect both the wheel and pedals USB rather than combined, and then select seperate in the game? Or do you mean I should just try leaving them combined and setting seperate pedals in the game?

Wow~ That worked. Thanks Charlie. So, I connected the pedals to the base, but in the game I set the controller to V2 Separate and assigned the pedals on the config tab....hmmm....Unless I missed something, that shouldn't work but does.... :/

charliev69
10-03-2017, 07:26
Wow~ That worked. Thanks Charlie. So, I connected the pedals to the base, but in the game I set the controller to V2 Separate and assigned the pedals on the config tab....hmmm....Unless I missed something, that shouldn't work but does.... :/

No , you should connect the pedals and wheel to your PC via individual USB ports ( you'll get better input range 10bit up to 12 bit ) and then make sure you select separate axis in game preset .

Its good to help buddy .

charliev69
10-03-2017, 09:19
Thanks Charlie =). Are you saying I should connect both the wheel and pedals USB rather than combined, and then select seperate in the game? Or do you mean I should just try leaving them combined and setting seperate pedals in the game?

Hi Randy , yep , connect both using independant USB connections then select Separate Pedals AXis in game ( so you get the throttle and brake mapped to 2 axis rather than sharing 1 )

:)

GrimeyDog
11-03-2017, 07:27
New V2.5 Dr/FW released today:yes: I have been playing Pcars for about 4 hours and not 1 problem!!! i heard the base fans come on and run their cycle and shut off....I dunno why but after this is when i really felt the FFB come alive with a Vivid FFB feel that i have Not felt before using the v2...I use My same TF/RAC 75 tweek that's posted on the Pcars forum and also the same exact wheel settings that i use on the v2 wheel... same settings but what a Nice difference in feel.

the v2.5 has less drag than the v2.0...i believe this less drag (wheel especially from TDC seems to move much more freely than the v2) is what makes the wheel FFB more vivid especially with subtle FFB forces.

I always use 0 Dri settings on both wheels...i tested the v2.5 @ dri -3 at this setting it feels as if it has the same drag as the v2.0

Nice job!!! I know it will only get better =D>

I don't think all the difference in feel is only because of the New wheel tec....I think it has alot to do with the new Dr/Fw!!! they said they are working to get it compatible with the v2.0...I'm sure when they do this many will be very happy!!! the reduced drag that the new FW offers really Spices up the subtle FFB because its not competing with or clouded by drag forces so it can be clearly felt.


EDIT: If you Have a v2 and you play PS4 don't Sell it!!! The v2.5 Will Not Work on My PS4!!!
If you plan to buy a v2.5 to use with PS4 check the facts before you order because My PS4 will not recognize my v2.5

charliev69
12-03-2017, 09:18
Yo GrimeyD !

I got my v2.5 2 days ago , and wow nice upgrade from v2 !
Finer detail around TDC , no dead zone , great new dri settings remove in game oscillations ( I use -5 which is identical to old dri=off on v2 according to Fanatec )
I had trouble updating firmware , had to try 2 times ! Currently on 273/245 fw ..... Is this the same as yours ?
Also , my wheel leds and displays dont work in game but are fine in CP test ?

Heres the FANATEC faq info on new dri settings

https://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/wheel-bases/clubsport-wheel-base-v2-5.html


:)

SlowBloke
12-03-2017, 16:15
great new dri settings remove in game oscillations ( I use -5 which is identical to old dri=off on v2 according to Fanatec )
I had trouble updating firmware , had to try 2 times ! Currently on 273/245 fw ..... Is this the same as yours ?

Nice one on the -dri !

Just upgraded from T300 and have been working with CSW v2 settings recommended in Jacks thread and poirqc thread.

Didnt like dri 3 so set to 0 but at -5 the car felt more planted and less jumpy (and no longer in constant danger of losing my fingers of the oscilation!).

Might be a little bit too much damping but will try -4 to -1 to see where the happy medium is.

If any one has recommended settings overall would love to hear.

Im currently using Jack Spades folders 10 although turned steering gain way down as the forces are sooo much stronger than my old t300.

For ease of sharing below are all the settings in question:

Fanatec Wheel Settings Desktop:
Wheel Angle 900
Dampening Strength 0

On Wheel:
SEn aut, FF 100, SHo off, AbS off, LIn off, dEA off, drI -5, For 100, SPr off, dPr off

In Game:
Calibrate Force Feedback
Tire Force 75
Per Wheel Movement -0.05
Per Wheel Movement Squared 0.03
Wheel Position Smoothing 0.04
Deadzone Removal Range 0.05
Deadzone Removal Falloff 0.01
Linkage Scale 0
Linkage Stiffness 1
Linkage Damping 1
Relative Adjust Gain 150
Relative Adjust Bleed 0.1
Relative Adjust Clamp 0.85
Scoop Knee 0
Scoop Reduction 0
Soft Clipping (Half Input) 0
Soft Clipping (Full Output) 0
Menu Spring Strength 0.4
Low Speed Spring Coefficient 0.75
Low Speed Spring Saturation 0.55
Steering Gain 60

Configuration
Steering Deadzone 0
Steering Sensitivity 50
Throttle Deadzone 7
Throttle Sensitivity 50
Brake Deadzone 7
Brake Sensitivity 50
Clutch Deadzone 7
Clutch Sensitivity 50
Speed Senstivity 0
Controller Filtering Sensitivity 0
Damper Saturation 0
Force Feedback 100
RPM/Gear Display Yes

Controller Input Mode
Advanced 3
Soft Steering Dampening Off
Visual Wheel Filtering On
Opposite Lock Help On

GrimeyDog
13-03-2017, 01:27
Yo GrimeyD !

I got my v2.5 2 days ago , and wow nice upgrade from v2 !
Finer detail around TDC , no dead zone , great new dri settings remove in game oscillations ( I use -5 which is identical to old dri=off on v2 according to Fanatec )
I had trouble updating firmware , had to try 2 times ! Currently on 273/245 fw ..... Is this the same as yours ?
Also , my wheel leds and displays dont work in game but are fine in CP test ?

Heres the FANATEC faq info on new dri settings

https://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/wheel-bases/clubsport-wheel-base-v2-5.html


:)

New FW!!! Its Much better than the 273!!! You have to log into the Fanatec Community and click the discussions tab... there you will find the New Fw 277!!!
I"m Glad you got yours and you feel what I'm feeling!!! I Really been holding back about how big the improvement is because i don't want any 1 to think I'm just talkin smack because i got the new wheel... v2.5 -vs- v2.0 its just 1 of those things that you have to compare and feel for your self to understand... I don't know what settings you use but my TF/RAC 75 settings work flawless!!!...i have beaten some of my times but i guess thats just me driving better because I been pure focused on just racing No More tweeking for a while....i can say that My laps are consistently faster...the improved subtle FFB feel is huge because the subtle FFB feel gives better clarity to the stronger FFB forces...

i dont know if its FW reklated or hardware related but the reduced Drag that the v2.5 has is really the Shining factor and has improved FFB feel alot because the subtle FFB is No longer fighting through Drag to be felt.


i use Dri "0" it took a few hours to get used to it but when you do its all pure FFB you feel...Nothing gets clouded by drag!!!...IMO v2.5 Dri -3 feels 1 to 1 with the V2.0 at Dri "0"

GrimeyDog
13-03-2017, 01:29
http://youtu.be/j5HLblRqLMo


Sakito never Felt this good!!!
Pcars now seems to have much better progressive FFB feel with the v2.5 and new FW!!!No its not over the top strong like AC but its definitely there....i think that because the wheel moves more freely because of much less drag this allows the progressive FFB forces to really shine through... that last fast sweeper curve before the straight to the finish line the progressive FFB is just spot on!!! its a well balanced fight between weight transfer and tire slip!!! watch the FFB graph...i can Clearly feel all of it!!!...

i feel the tire slip with the regular v2 as well but it's not as vivid and clear... While the v2.0 gives great FFB feel with Pcars the weight transfer feels like more of a constant weight that turns off and on with notably less progressive feel than the v2.5 gives...Many will think or say that Gdog just taking smack and Nope it can't be that big a difference.... well its not when talking a bout stronger FFB forces but when your talking about more subtle FFB feel then the jump becomes more significant...I'm sure that as many more get the v2.5 wheel and report back that many will share my same thoughts the diff can be clearly felt.... The subtle FFB forces define and give clarity to the stronger FFB forces... just like with music bass is just Noise and Vibration until you add in the Highs and the Mids....I don't know how much of this is due to new wheel TEC or FW:confused: but if they can port even 3/4ths of the progressive FFB feel and reduce wheel drag for the v2.0!!! I'm sure many v2.0 owners will be dancing with joy.

I made No changes to my TF/RAC 75 tweek... v2.0 to v2.5 was plug and play with better subtle FFB feel.

SlowBloke
13-03-2017, 07:56
Grimey - thanks for the info on where to find the new drivers and firmware.

Ive read through your post on your FFB settings but do not find a definitive list of all settings ?

Would you mind posting what you have with the entire list like I put up a few posts ago please ?

charliev69
13-03-2017, 10:18
New FW!!! Its Much better than the 273!!! You have to log into the Fanatec Community and click the discussions tab... there you will find the New Fw 277!!!
I"m Glad you got yours and you feel what I'm feeling!!! I Really been holding back about how big the improvement is because i don't want any 1 to think I'm just talkin smack because i got the new wheel... v2.5 -vs- v2.0 its just 1 of those things that you have to compare and feel for your self to understand... I don't know what settings you use but my TF/RAC 75 settings work flawless!!!...i have beaten some of my times but i guess thats just me driving better because I been pure focused on just racing No More tweeking for a while....i can say that My laps are consistently faster...the improved subtle FFB feel is huge because the subtle FFB feel gives better clarity to the stronger FFB forces...

i dont know if its FW reklated or hardware related but the reduced Drag that the v2.5 has is really the Shining factor and has improved FFB feel alot because the subtle FFB is No longer fighting through Drag to be felt.


i use Dri "0" it took a few hours to get used to it but when you do its all pure FFB you feel...Nothing gets clouded by drag!!!...IMO v2.5 Dri -3 feels 1 to 1 with the V2.0 at Dri "0"


Hi Grimey

I'm using toned down Jack Spade settings , TF 75 , RAG 140 , RAC 10 , RAB 85 , SG 105 , no scoops / soft clips / PWM / DRR 's and his number 10 folder files .

The lack of drag is the biggest advantage over the old V2 , like you say , but I'm trialling the -5 setting as it reduces TDC oscillations .

Do you have working on-wheel lights / leds in game ?

AND what pedal settings do you run , ie brake pedal preload / damper ?
I run 4 on the preload spring with 1 damper , zero signal resistence in CP .
( with stronger black springs for gas and clutch )

:)

GrimeyDog
13-03-2017, 11:04
Grimey - thanks for the info on where to find the new drivers and firmware.

Ive read through your post on your FFB settings but do not find a definitive list of all settings ?

Would you mind posting what you have with the entire list like I put up a few posts ago please ?

I will post them when i get off work... But you can down load the PDF from the front page its 3/4ths the way down.... The Most inportant part to My settings are the Global Sttings... TF 75, RAG 1.00, RAB 0.8, RAC 75, SG 1.00.... the DRR, DRF etc settings are wheel dependent and must be set according to wheel or personal taste...The v2 and v2.5 have very little to No Dead Zone... I do Not use ("0") No DZ or Damping in the settings In Car or Global.. These Must be set by wheel or personal taste...Using these Global settings the Tweek is Very user Friendly and Gives Great Feel... it allows you the user to adjust the in Car Masters per Car to set the FFB strength that you like best per Car *You can Even use in car Masters 200 with No Clipping!!!* I Doubt that you would Need to set any in car master that high...1 example of a car that you may like higher in car masters would be the Clio Cup car but i use 100 masters and same settings every car and its fine for Me... IMO all cars are Not supposed to have the same wheel weight....you can set Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz & SOP to taste to bring out the feel you like best and again with No Fear of Clipping* the Global settings re Balanced that even with RAG 200 you will get No Clipping... *Note RAG 2.00 -vs- RAG 1.00 video posted on My thread Front page*.....I use in car Master 100, Fx 10, Fy 30, Fz 60, Mz 30... SOP Lat 10, Sop mater 100, SOP Dif lf 60..... any Setting Not listed is "0"... But Check the PDF from My Front page im on My phone typing from Memory... @47 Im Getting old and forget stuff:p LOL

I use these settings Every Car No Matter what the Car Class and all Feel Great!!!.... My Wheel settings are o wheel FFB 50, Sen AUT, BrF 100 (i like instant Brake response) ABS 55, Dri Off, Spr/Dpr 100 or Default Value.

all other settings or settings Not listed are default value.

Dont let the 100 car Masters Scare you... Down load the PDF Try the settings and see for yourself... pick your favorite car and best track test for Feel... i like watkins short because you get a Good sense of speed and Geat bump feel.

Try them Let Me know what you think..... when you use low in car Maters your killing the FFB at the source which is why many complain that the cars feel floaty and disconnected from the road.

I always tests on 24hr Lemans date using GT3 Ruf...Make the Gt3 Ruf feel Good and the Rest fall right in Line... Even the Gt3 Mclaren Gives Good Road and Bump Feel and thats a Very Dossile Car as far as Road feel!!!... June 18, Current year.... Track temps make a huge diff in FFB, Tire Grip feel so you have to always test FFB Grip feel on same date an time of day and Fuel Load i use 10 laps of Fuel watkins short in the Gt3 Ruf 24gal/liter for race and 5 laps fuel Qualifying....Try thes settings let me know what you think.

For PC I have a Tweeker File i can post with all cars and car packs if you would like Me to post it.... I do Not have any Mod Cars.

These settings work PC and PS4 and Give almost identical FFB feel... PC feels more nuanced though.

SlowBloke
13-03-2017, 12:35
Thanks a lot for the offer yes please on the tweaker files and the settings in the format if you dont mind that would be ace.

Im in new grounds with Fanatec so have no real starting point vs the v2 for instance. Its a completely different animal from the T300.

Will dig through the pdf as well !

GrimeyDog
13-03-2017, 13:43
Thanks a lot for the offer yes please on the tweaker files and the settings in the format if you dont mind that would be ace.

Im in new grounds with Fanatec so have no real starting point vs the v2 for instance. Its a completely different animal from the T300.

Will dig through the pdf as well !


I'm at work... i wll post them By this evening 5 or 6pm Ny time...in the mean time you can plug in the Globals that i listed with the Car Settings i posted same info should be in the PDF to get a Good Feel for it.... With the V2/V2.5 IMO you dont Need any DRR, DRF--> is Full Left then 5 clicks right.... with the V2/v2.5 all Smoothing and Damping should be set to 0%(This is a very wheel dependent setting...The v2/v2.5 can handle alot so No Need to kill any of the Feeling... Dont worry you wont hurt your wheel).... Scoop Settings are 0/0 Most Linear wheel feels more powerful under Load/Weight transfer or you can try 68/24 Less Linear and feels Less Powerfull under Load weight transfer.

These Global settings with in car Masters 100 will Not Hurt, Harm or over work you wheel... Infact you will See that the settings put out Nice FFB power and Very Nice subtle FFB feel and your wheel will Run Cool!!! My Side Fan Hardly ever comes on Even after Hours of Racing!!! when i first Came up with TF/RAC 75 i would check My side Fan because it Would hardly ever come on...LOL... I have bn using My v2 since 2014!!! with No problems or Heat issues:yes:

I will Copy and paste your post and fill it in with My settings later on also.

GrimeyDog
13-03-2017, 13:59
Hi Grimey

I'm using toned down Jack Spade settings , TF 75 , RAG 140 , RAC 10 , RAB 85 , SG 105 , no scoops / soft clips / PWM / DRR 's and his number 10 folder files .

The lack of drag is the biggest advantage over the old V2 , like you say , but I'm trialling the -5 setting as it reduces TDC oscillations .

Do you have working on-wheel lights / leds in game ?

AND what pedal settings do you run , ie brake pedal preload / damper ?
I run 4 on the preload spring with 1 damper , zero signal resistence in CP .
( with stronger black springs for gas and clutch )

:)

I get Little to No Oscillation other than Road Feel with My Settings... Even in FA!!!... v2 or v2.5
The High RAG(Gain/Volume) is picking up or Creating Noise trying to fill in the Gap for the Low in Car Masters you are forced to use by running RAG sooo High and SG over 1.00.... you are over working 1 oart of the System to compensate for under working the other part....With the right settings Nothing Need be set Higher than 1.00/100 and the FFB is Very powerful..... Can you Test My settings and see for yourself.... Let Me know what you think....It Never Hurts to try Something New... also im very curiouse to know what your thoughts are..

GrimeyDog
13-03-2017, 23:24
GrimeyDog tweeker files


Note I Now use On wheel FFB @ 50%.... I rcommend Starting at o Wgeel FFB 50% and + or - as Needed... There is No Loss of Dynamic Range by using wheel at less than 100%... Ignore that old Myth... also you will see at 50% the FFB is still Gives a Good Fight but Not enough to wear you out during a long Race.. while still maintaining Great FFB Detail.

Edit: Updated the PDF also copied tweeker file from My gaming PC to ensure i upload correct 1....i have a few different versions some were not 100% finished but this is the file i use so i know its 100% complete.

charliev69
14-03-2017, 06:59
GrimeyDog tweeker files


Note I Now use On wheel FFB @ 50%.... I rcommend Starting at o Wgeel FFB 50% and + or - as Needed... There is No Loss of Dynamic Range by using wheel at less than 100%... Ignore that old Myth... also you will see at 50% the FFB is still Gives a Good Fight but Not enough to wear you out during a long Race.. while still maintaining Great FFB Detail.

WOW , tweaker files !!

Thanks Grimey , I'll try them and your settings tonight

:)

SlowBloke
14-03-2017, 08:44
Thanks for sharing.

Tried the settings on RUF GT3 at Oulton Park and for that combo at least I like your settings although I did not get on with the tweeker files as much as I do what Im used to but hey its all personal preference. The wheel and in game settings look promising though - thank you :)

GrimeyDog
14-03-2017, 09:12
Thanks for sharing.

Tried the settings on RUF GT3 at Oulton Park and for that combo at least I like your settings although I did not get on with the tweeker files as much as I do what Im used to but hey its all personal preference. The wheel and in game settings look promising though - thank you :)

I havent had time to Re do the PDF but i will.... I was Having a Few Pre Snow day celbration Drinks last Night:very_drunk: ... LOL... i was trying to edit the PDF last night and Nothing made sense... LOL!!! Real Story:o Hey you gotta have a Lil fun.

I will work on posting the settings in your format today.
I agree Dialing in the settings makes it easier until you find what you like... Then Go Tweker file....

Keep in Mind that these settings are Very Flexable... You have Total Controle!!! You can Set Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz & SOP how ever you want.... You can Set SOP Master Scale to Off if you dont like it.
1 car too Strong Lower the masters 1 cartoo light Raise the Masters.... You can use In Car Masters 200 with No Clipping!!! This is because TF 75...TF(Global Spindle Master Scale) Sets the Total Power output from the in car Masters... In Car Masters Set the Saturation of FFB forces(in Car Masters Blend the Fx,Fy etc forces as 1 before TF) ... Ex: look at it like this You can turn up the Base(Fx), Mids(Fy), Highs(Fz) with your car Radio equalizer without Raising the total Volume of the system...Why??? Because the Equalizer is Not the Master Volume it just raises the Volume of the frequencys you want to bring out more... The Fx Fy etc and in Car Masters operate the same way.... They are all Pre TF(Global Spindle Master Scale) frequency adjustments.. this means that in Car Maters 100 + TF 75 = 75 Final power output!!! Low in Car Masters Kill the FFB Feel at the Source!!! High in car Masters just Give More Saturation of FFB forces and will Not Cause Clipoing as long as your Global System is Balanced Correctly.

RAG Sets the Power Limit of Forces wirking within the FFB system... Ex any forces that tries to Rise above its set Limit will Be Cut/Clipped.... Therefore you Must set RAC lower than RAG.

RAC Sets the point at which the FFB systm Stops appying power to the FFB Forces..... Ex: A Fan will Not Stop Spinning just because you cut the power switch off... It will Keep Spinning until the residual power Dissapates....The FFB system is the same.... RAC will cut the power to the FFB forces but the FFB Spikes will Continue to Rise until the Residual power Dissapates!!! This is why people get Clipping....No using Higer RAG will Not Stop Clipping it just allows More power to Flow through the system unchecked and will actually Promote/Cause Clipping.... This Fact Forces you to use Low in Car Masters to avoid Clipping which will work But Low Car Masters Kill the FFB Feel at the source!!! Thats like Having Head phones with a Volume control on it so you cut your Ipod Volume down Very Low while turning th Volume on your Head phones up....Then you wonder why you cant Hear the Music Clearly:confused:... Why You??? Because you likked the Volune at the source:yes: The FFB system with Regards to in Car Masters operates the same way:yes:

Note: Very important to Keep Fx at a Lower # Value than Fy!!! Fx is the Strongest Force it will TOTALLY Drown out Fy Feel... Test it and See... Set Fx to 10 set Fy to 50 then test... Then set Fx to 30 Fy 50 you will see that Fy feel -->Left to Right Grip/Road Feel is Less...the set Fx 50 Fy 50 you will see that Fy Feel is almost Totally Gone!!!

Let Me know what you Need Help Tweeking i will helo you get it all Sorted :yes:

SlowBloke
14-03-2017, 09:22
Thanks mate - I think most of the tweaks for me will be with the csw for now - deciding when I do and dont like the dri to be 0 or into the - numbers - I do find for fun 0 seems to be best but under differing conditions -5 is faster / safer to avoid those stupid off moments :)

I found most of your settings in the pdf except Dampening Strength in the desktop fanatec settings and also could not find BrF to set to 30 anywhere on the CSW ?

charliev69
14-03-2017, 09:30
Thanks mate - I think most of the tweaks for me will be with the csw for now - deciding when I do and dont like the dri to be 0 or into the - numbers - I do find for fun 0 seems to be best but under differing conditions -5 is faster / safer to avoid those stupid off moments :)

I found most of your settings in the pdf except Dampening Strength in the desktop fanatec settings and also could not find BrF to set to 30 anywhere on the CSW ?

Hi Slowbloke ,

I think Grimey has his pedals connected to his base , hence the BRF value on his wheel menu , its the same as the signal resistence slider in the Fana CP.

:)

GrimeyDog
14-03-2017, 09:53
I havent had time to Re do the PDF but i will.... I was Having a Few Pre Snow day celbration Drinks last Night:very_drunk: ... LOL... i was trying to edit the PDF last night and Nothing made sense... LOL!!! Real Story:o Hey you gotta have a Lil fun.
I will work on posting the settings in your format today.
I agree Dialing in the settings makes it easier until you find what you like... Then Go Tweker file....

Keep in Mind that these settings are Very Flexable... You have Total Controle!!! You can Set Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz & SOP how ever you want.... You can Set SOP Master Scale to Off if you dont like it.
1 car too Strong Lower the masters 1 car too light Raise the Masters.... You can use In Car Masters 200 with No Clipping!!! This is because TF 75...TF(Global Spindle Master Scale) Sets the Total Power output from the in car Masters... In Car Masters Set the Saturation of FFB forces(in Car Masters Blend the Fx,Fy etc forces as 1 before TF) ... Ex: look at it like this You can turn up the Base(Fx), Mids(Fy), Highs(Fz) with your car Radio equalizer without Raising the total Volume of the system...Why??? Because the Equalizer is Not the Master Volume it just raises the Volume of the frequencys you want to bring out more... The Fx Fy etc and in Car Masters operate the same way.... They are all Pre TF(Global Spindle Master Scale) frequency adjustments.. this means that in Car Maters 100 + TF 75 = 75 Final power output!!! Low in Car Masters Kill the FFB Feel at the Source!!! High in car Masters just Give More Saturation of FFB forces and will Not Cause Clipoing as long as your Global System is Balanced Correctly.

RAG Sets the Power Limit of Forces wirking within the FFB system... Ex any forces that tries to Rise above its set Limit will Be Cut/Clipped.... Therefore you Must set RAC lower than RAG.

RAC Sets the point at which the FFB systm Stops appying power to the FFB Forces..... Ex: A Fan will Not Stop Spinning just because you cut the power switch off... It will Keep Spinning until the residual power Dissapates....The FFB system is the same.... RAC will cut the power to the FFB forces but the FFB Spikes will Continue to Rise until the Residual power Dissapates!!! Therefore set RAC 75 to 80!!! 85 is possible but you are really pushing the Limit and FFB Effect forceswill be Very Strong!!! RAC too High This is why people get Clipping....No using Higer RAG will Not Stop Clipping it just allows More power to Flow through the system unchecked and will actually Promote/Cause Clipping.... This Fact Forces you to use Low in Car Masters to avoid Clipping which will work But Low Car Masters Kill the FFB Feel at the source!!! Thats like Having Head phones with a Volume control on it so you cut your Ipod Volume down Very Low while turning th Volume on your Head phones up....Then you wonder why you cant Hear the Music Clearly:confused:... Why You??? Because you likked the Volune at the source:yes: The FFB system with Regards to in Car Masters operates the same way:yes:

Note: Very important to Keep Fx at a Lower # Value than Fy!!! Fx is the Strongest Force it will TOTALLY Drown out Fy Feel... Test it and See... Set Fx to 10 set Fy to 50 then test... Then set Fx to 30 Fy 50 you will see that Fy feel -->Left to Right Grip/Road Feel is Less...the set Fx 50 Fy 50 you will see that Fy Feel is almost Totally Gone!!!

Let Me know what you Need Help Tweeking i will helo you get it all Sorted :yes:


Repost because of Major Editing..... I typed this up on My Phone... So pardon any Bad Grammer or mis Spelled words.... LOL..... But im 99.995% sure this is How the FFb system works:yes:

GrimeyDog
14-03-2017, 09:58
Thanks mate - I think most of the tweaks for me will be with the csw for now - deciding when I do and dont like the dri to be 0 or into the - numbers - I do find for fun 0 seems to be best but under differing conditions -5 is faster / safer to avoid those stupid off moments :)

I found most of your settings in the pdf except Dampening Strength in the desktop fanatec settings and also could not find BrF to set to 30 anywhere on the CSW ?


Hi Slowbloke ,

I think Grimey has his pedals connected to his base , hence the BRF value on his wheel menu , its the same as the signal resistence slider in the Fana CP.

:)

Yes this is Correct.... This is why you dont see BRF.

I find that the Pedals to the wheel works best even though the Resolution is Less... You Need that Quicker Brake or Throttle Response time that the Less Resolution offers.... The Pedals to PC is ok but the Extra Resolution while slightly More accurate often leads to Slower Response time.

GrimeyDog
14-03-2017, 10:01
Im Tyoing from My Phone..LOL... No work today Job Closed Due to Snow Storm!!! Yaaay!!! I will be Home on My PC in a Few...I can Help you get things sorted all day if Need be.

SlowBloke
14-03-2017, 10:07
ahh understood thanks guys.

I did try to get the cable to the wheel but with my set up it wont reach hence into the PC the pedals go.

Alas no scary storm in the UK hence I do have to work :/

Hope it doesnt get to bad over there - stay safe !

GrimeyDog
14-03-2017, 10:15
I had the same problem... I made a 12ft line.... Very easy to make you just Need the plug ends and the Crimping tool.... Its a Good tool to have.... I had to Make aLine for My Shifter also.

Make sure you read The Above edited repost!!! It will Really Help you understand how and what to tweek.... If you dont understand something let Me know i will try to answer best i can.

SlowBloke
14-03-2017, 10:32
will do thanks.

GrimeyDog
14-03-2017, 16:20
Fanatec Wheel Settings Desktop:

Wheel Angle 900

Dampening Strength 100%


On Wheel:

SEn Aut, FF 50, SHo 100, AbS 55, LIn off, dEA off, drI 0, For 100, SPr 100, dPr 100, brF 100

In Game:


Global settings

Tire Force 75

Per Wheel Movement 0.00

Per Wheel Movement Squared 0.00

Wheel Position Smoothing 0.00

Deadzone Removal Range 0.00

Deadzone Removal Falloff 0.05 ←-Go full left then 5 clicks Right


Linkage Scale 0.00

Linkage Stiffness 0.00

Linkage Damping 0.00


Relative Adjust Gain 1.00

Relative Adjust Bleed 0.08

Relative Adjust Clamp 0.75

Scoop Knee PC 0.00 PS4 0.68

Scoop Reduction PC 0.00 PS4 0.24

Note: scoops 0.00 works PC or PS4 the difference is 0.00 scoops feel more linear...68/24 less

linear with same good FFB feel...should be set according to what feels best for Wheel being

used.


Soft Clipping (Half Input) 0.00

Soft Clipping (Full Output) 0.00


Menu Spring Strength 0.25

Low Speed Spring Coefficient 0.75

Low Speed Spring Saturation 1.00

Steering Gain 1.00


Configuration

Steering Deadzone 0

Steering Sensitivity 50

Throttle Deadzone 0

Throttle Sensitivity 50

Brake Deadzone 0

Brake Sensitivity 50

Clutch Deadzone 0

Clutch Sensitivity 75

Note: Pedal settings can be done to taste according to pedals used.


Speed Sensitivity 0

Controller Filtering Sensitivity 0

Damper Saturation 0

Force Feedback 100

RPM/Gear Display Yes

Controller Input Mode

Advanced 3

Soft Steering Dampening Off (when this is off by default all settings with are Off)

Visual Wheel Filtering Off

Opposite Lock Help Off




In Car Settings


*** In Car FFB Tuning Settings *** Note: + or - to adjust according to what you want to feel

most but i Recommend Trying as is First. ***


Master Scale 100 + or - to get the desired FFB strength per car that feels best for you.

The following settings are used to bring out what you most want to feel...Note: brief description.

FX 10.00 longitudinal force component / Front to back (Braking feel / Wheel gets light if front tires leave the ground)
FY 30.00 lateral force component (sideways force when cornering)

FZ 60.00 vertical force component (weight transfer, bumps)

Mz 30.00 torque/ wheel centering force


Arm Angle 1500 or whatever it is Stock as per car


Sop Master Scale 100 Note: Can also be set to 0.00 if you prefer No SoP feel.

SoP Lat 10.0 Lateral Weight Transfer
SoP Diff 60.0 Vertical/ Lateral Weight Transfer

SoP Damp 0.00

Edit: Updated the PDF also copied tweeker file from My gaming PC to ensure i upload correct tweeker file:yes:....I have a few different versions some were not 100% finished but this is the file i use so i know its 100% complete.

SlowBloke
14-03-2017, 17:09
Thanks again Grimey :)

GrimeyDog
14-03-2017, 18:32
Thanks again Grimey :)

thank you also:o I copied and pasted your post to use a a new template when i made the new PDF:encouragement:

Also i Noticed that you have damper in the control panel set to 0...IMO The v2.5 has sooo little drag that you should try it with the control panel damper at 100% and Dr1 on the wheel at 0 .... for me that feels the best...Very Little to No Drag with just the right amount of tension that instantly turns into FFB and Progressive feel when the wheel is turned off center.

charliev69
15-03-2017, 08:39
Hi Grimey

I tried your settings and tweakers last night , and they're certainly different !

I ended up with on-wheel FFB @ 80 as 50 was too light for my taste and DMPR @ 100 from zero , and DRI OFF . I think I prefer a little more drag / resistence overall , so I will probably change DRI back to -3 or -5.

But comparing your tweakers to Jack Spades ... yours have more constant force which I think is good , but I'll continue testing tonight .

Really pleased with my CSW v2.5 , so much more potential in the new motor tech !!

:)

GrimeyDog
15-03-2017, 09:44
Hi Grimey

I tried your settings and tweakers last night , and they're certainly different !

I ended up with on-wheel FFB @ 80 as 50 was too light for my taste and DMPR @ 100 from zero , and DRI OFF . I think I prefer a little more drag / resistence overall , so I will probably change DRI back to -3 or -5.

But comparing your tweakers to Jack Spades ... yours have more constant force which I think is good , but I'll continue testing tonight .

Really pleased with my CSW v2.5 , so much more potential in the new motor tech !!

:)



Thanks... Im Glad you like them:o The settings are Very Flexable... You want even more Feel you can turn up TF/RAC to 80 that Really Spices things up and adds More weight to the wheel... Still want more??? you can go as High as 85 but thats really pushing the edge of the Clipping Zone. @75 or 80 No Matter what you get No Clipping and still Very Powerful....also keeps your wheel running Cool for Long all Day Gaming Sessions:yes:

It took Me a while to get used to a Lighter wheel but Now that im used to it i cant go back to Heavy wheel Feel... Feels Great but makes it hard to be Fast through Chicains and 180 turns.... The Lighter Drag Free Center Feel in the V2.5 Really threw Me off at first... But Im Loving it Now... That Redution in Drag Really Lets the more Subtle FFB shine through especially around wheel TDC!!!

I know the v2 and v2.5 are supposed to be basicly the same but it dont feel like it... They Feel Same but Totally different at the same time... They are more the same with Strong FFB forces only....Subtle Force feel and wheel speed are very different.... Im actually in Awww because i didnt think it would improve this much.... and it will only get better with FW improvements


Edit: There are 2 ways to adjust the settings
1) Increase TF/RAC to increase the FFB Feel of All Cars.

2) Leave TF/RAC @75 and Dial in the Settings for a car Test Drive it then Edit the Tweeker File and adust the Masters Per Car as Needed if Needed... @TF/RAC 75 in Car Masters can be used at 200!!! With No Clipping!!! This allows you to set the Satuation of FFB Forces per Car as You Like it.

Test this with the Gt3 Mclaren... That Car is Known to Have a Floaty Feel to it but you can Definitly Tweek the Masters to Bring out More Road Feel!!! you may Like the Mclaren Masters at 150... I like them at 100, Some 1 else likes them at 80....It doesnt Matter the tweek is Very Flexable to be tweeked to wheel used and individual taste... Total individual Tweeker Freedom just by + or - with the in Car Masters.

Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz and SOP can also be tweeked to taste... I set them with a good Balance but they can also be adjusted to taste... The Most important part of the tweek is to Balance TF, RAG(<--No Need to set this Higher than 1.00) and RAC to avoid Clipping.



My theory has always been if Pcars FFB is Directly from the Spindle Forces then Why use Low in Car Masters?? ? You are Killing the Very FFB You want to feel at the source.

The V2.5 will really Show its true Potential when Pcars2 comes out!!! the 1000Hz Refresh Rate will Really Pay off.... Its Paying off with Pcars1 Big Time and the FW is Not even Fully Maximized yet:yes:

charliev69
15-03-2017, 11:25
Thanks... Im Glad you like them:o The settings are Very Flexable... You want even more Feel you can turn up TF/RAC to 80 that Really Spices things up and adds More weight to the wheel... Still want more??? you can go as High as 85 but thats really pushing the edge of the Clipping Zone. @75 or 80 No Matter what you get No Clipping and still Very Powerful....also keeps your wheel running Cool for Long all Day Gaming Sessions:yes:

It took Me a while to get used to a Lighter wheel but Now that im used to it i cant go back to Heavy wheel Feel... Feels Great but makes it hard to be Fast through Chicains and 180 turns.... The Lighter Drag Free Center Feel in the V2.5 Really threw Me off at first... But Im Loving it Now... That Redution in Drag Really Lets the more Subtle FFB shine through especially around wheel TDC!!!

I know the v2 and v2.5 are supposed to be basicly the same but it dont feel like it... They Feel Same but Totally different at the same time... They are more be same with Strong FFB forces only....Subtle Force feel and wheel speed are very different.... Im actually in Awww because i didnt think it would improve this much.... and it will only get better with FW improvements


Edit: There are 2 ways to adjust the settings
1) Increase TF/RAC to increase the FFB Feel of All Cars.

2) Leave TF/RAC @75 and Dial in the Settings Per car as you Test Drive it then Edit the Tweeker File and adust the Masters Per Car... @TF/RAC 75 in Car Masters can be used at 200!!! With No Clipping!!! This allows you to set the Satuation of FFB Forces per Car as You Like it.

Test this with the Gt3 Mclaren... That Car is Known to Have a Floaty Feel to it but you an Definitly Tweek the Masters to Bring out More Road Feel!!! you may Like the Mclaren Masters at 150... I like them at 100, Some 1 else likes them at 80....It doesnt Matter the tweek is Very Flexable to be tweeked to wheel used and individual taste... Total individual Tweeker Freedom just by + or - with the in Car Masters.

Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz and SOP can also be tweeked to taste... I set them with a good Balance but they can also be adjusted to taste... The Most important part of the tweek is to Balance TF, RAG(<--No Need to set this Higher than 1.00) and RAC to avoid Clipping.



My theory has always been if Pcars FFB is Directly from the Spindle Forces then Why use Low in Car Masters?? ? You are Killing the Very FFB You want to feel at the source.

The V2.5 will really Show its true Potential when Pcars2 comes out!!! the 1000Hz Refresh Rate will Really Pay off.... Its Paying off with Pcars1 Big Time and the FW is Not even Fully Maximized yet:yes:

Yep !! I've been testing Pcars2 for months , and the FFB is improved from Pcars1 straight out of the box, although there's no native support for our V2.5 yet !

Its going to be awsome !!

:)

GrimeyDog
16-03-2017, 09:28
Hi Grimey

I tried your settings and tweakers last night , and they're certainly different !

I ended up with on-wheel FFB @ 80 as 50 was too light for my taste and DMPR @ 100 from zero , and DRI OFF . I think I prefer a little more drag / resistence overall , so I will probably change DRI back to -3 or -5.

But comparing your tweakers to Jack Spades ... yours have more constant force which I think is good , but I'll continue testing tonight .

Really pleased with my CSW v2.5 , so much more potential in the new motor tech !!

:)


Holy Crap!!! Your using on Wheel FFB 80 with My settings??? I turned up the on wheel FFB to 80 last Night and it was Really Really Strong!!! FFB felt Good but just too Much Fight in the wheel to make Quick turns.

charliev69
16-03-2017, 14:44
Holy Crap!!! Your using on Wheel FFB 80 with My settings??? I turned up the on wheel FFB to 80 last Night and it was Really Really Strong!!! FFB felt Good but just too Much Fight in the wheel to make Quick turns.

Horses for Courses , I like them with some fight !!

BUt not too much or you get clipped :)