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blinkngone
16-03-2017, 00:37
I have the CSWB 2.5 installed since January 15th. I have set 214 TT #1's since I started using the wheel. Really impressed with it overall and appreciate all the help from the forum experts.

blinkngone
16-03-2017, 00:41
Sorry Grimey Dog, I tried to reply to the thread you posted on but I kept getting kicked out. I wanted to thank you for your hard work and willingness to share with the rest of us. I will be trying some of your suggestions soon and hopefully I will be making progress.

BigDad
16-03-2017, 01:21
214? wow!
Welcome Seb.

GrimeyDog
16-03-2017, 10:03
Sorry Grimey Dog, I tried to reply to the thread you posted on but I kept getting kicked out. I wanted to thank you for your hard work and willingness to share with the rest of us. I will be trying some of your suggestions soon and hopefully I will be making progress.

My thread is a open thread so you should be able to post Freely.

I have posted Tweeker Files on the Main Page of My thread... PDF is also in there with the Global & on Wheel Settings.
It would be Good to Read atleast the First page of the thread it will give you a Good Idea what settings do to better Help you to tweek to your Personal taste.

blinkngone
16-03-2017, 10:14
I am actually doing much better at posting 2nd and 3rd place times:D I have been able to drive cars better that I did poorly with before. I managed to snap off the bracket on 1 of the pods of the universal hub, zip tied it to the wheel rim, it's actually easier to reach the buttons now. I am still having problems posting, don't know why.

GrimeyDog
16-03-2017, 10:15
Has any 1 else Here read the Fact page on the v2.5??? Really Nice Changes were Made... Its up on the Fanatec web site.
Biggest Change was the Motor is Now Drag Free like a DD wheel Due to Tec advancement.

I must say the Very Low Drag that the v2.5 New FFB motor has is Really a Big improvement...It makes a Nice Difference in Subtle FFB Feel!!!
Also you can Now Feel the Progressive wheel weight as you turn wheel from TDC that you couldnt feel with Pcars before...It makes the wheel feel even stronger Now but according to the fact sheet its still 8NM same as v2.

I Guess the prigressive Feel was getting Drownd out by the FFB motor Wheel Drag.

blinkngone
16-03-2017, 12:31
I came from a really beat up G25 to the Fanatec v2.5 so I don't have a reference for the improvements from the v2.0. I had read forum posts that assumed if you were a good enough driver/setup specialist that there would not be a huge improvement with the new wheel technology but thankfully I am such a novice/idiot that the difference this wheel makes is huge. At first I was worried because I was so much slower with the v2.5 but after a couple of adjustments to the FFB I made what for me is fantastic progress. I haven't even begun to utilize your adjustments GrimeyDog so I look forward to further progress.

GrimeyDog
16-03-2017, 13:41
My Lap Times Have improved also .300 --->500 easily!!! Its soo Much easier to be consistent Now with the v2.5.... The V2 is a Great wheel also But you Never Realize How Much the Wheel Drag affects your Driving until you use a wheel that dies Not have any Drag.... Very Nice upgrade... From V2 to V2.5... your coming from a Logitec so the upgrade is Huge!!! performance Gains will be Very Notable.

GT3 Ruf
Sakitto GP V2 1:43.6xx

Sakitto GP V2.5 1:42.7xx average 1:42.2xxx fastest lap so Far

Still using stock untuned GT3 Ruf... Not even Down Force or Tire PSI adjusted!!!

Randy
16-03-2017, 15:34
My thread is a open thread so you should be able to post Freely.

I have posted Tweeker Files on the Main Page of My thread... PDF is also in there with the Global & on Wheel Settings.
It would be Good to Read atleast the First page of the thread it will give you a Good Idea what settings do to better Help you to tweek to your Personal taste.

GrimeyDog - Can you post a link to the thread with this PDF and settings here? That would be awesome! Thanks~

GrimeyDog
16-03-2017, 16:09
GrimeyDog - Can you post a link to the thread with this PDF and settings here? That would be awesome! Thanks~

Follow the link in My Signature... the down loads are at the Bottom of 1st post.
I posted a Tweeker file Down Load it... The Tweeker file is used the same as JS tweeker file...Pics and Instructions are also in there how to install.... Also NEW PDF inside tweeker file Download with the Global and wheel settings.... as well as in Car Settings just incase you want to plug the settings in car by car.

Down load Tweeker File and test... I will be on My PC in 1 hour or so.... Post back and let Me know how you are getting along and i can help you.

The settings are super easy and user Friendly when you plug them in.... Make sure you plug in the Exact Global settings... Thats where all the Majic is.

There are a few ways you can tweek the settings

1)If you choose to use the PDF to test/tweek each car individually remember you can adjust the FFB strength of each car + or - with the in car masters until it feels right for you The masters can be used at max 200 with no clipping:yes:

Note: TF= Global spindle master scale!!!(<---Master for the in car masters) This means that In Car Masters 50,100 or 200 to--> TF 75= 75:yes: Higher masters just add more saturation of FFB forces...Lower masters reduce FFB Feel and saturation.

after you find you sweet spot then later on you can Edit the tweeker file if you choose and adjust the masters accordingly.

2) you like the feel of the settings as is with tweeker file but you want more curb rumble set RAC 80-->85 Do Not exceed RAC 85 this will put you in the clipping Zone!!!... RAC 75 Curb feel is good but you you Only want more wheel weight set TF to 80, you want more wheel weight and Curb feel set TF and RAC 80.

I recommend to start with on wheel FFB @50% and + or - as needed if needed to find your sweet spot.

Randy
16-03-2017, 16:11
Follow the link in My Signature... the down loads are at the Bottom of 1st post.
I posted a Tweeker file Down Load it... The Tweeker file is used the same as JS tweeker file...Pics and Instructions are also in there how to install.... Also NEW PDF inside tweeker file Download with the Global and wheel settings.... as well as in Car Settings just incase you want to plug the settings in car by car.

Down load Tweeker File and test... I will be on My PC in 1 hour or so.... Post back and let Me know how you are getting along and i can help you.

The settings are super easy and user Friendly when you plug them in.... Make sure you plug in the Exact Global settings... Thats where all the Majic is.

Perfect! Thank you. I'll be working on it!

GrimeyDog
16-03-2017, 18:23
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by Randy http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?p=1327212#post1327212)
GrimeyDog - Can you post a link to the thread with this PDF and settings here? That would be awesome! Thanks~
Follow the link in My Signature... the down loads are at the Bottom of 1st post.
I posted a Tweeker file Down Load it... The Tweeker file is used the same as JS tweeker file...Pics and Instructions are also in there how to install.... Also NEW PDF inside tweeker file Download with the Global and wheel settings.... as well as in Car Settings just incase you want to plug the settings in car by car.

Down load Tweeker File and test... I will be on My PC in 1 hour or so.... Post back and let Me know how you are getting along and i can help you.

The settings are super easy and user Friendly when you plug them in.... Make sure you plug in the Exact Global settings... Thats where all the Majic is.

There are a few ways you can tweek the settings

1)If you choose to use the PDF to test/tweek each car individually remember you can adjust the FFB strength of each car + or - with the in car masters until it feels right for you The masters can be used at max 200 with no clipping:yes:

Note: TF= Global spindle master scale!!!(<---Master for the in car masters) This means that In Car Masters 50,100 or 200 to--> TF 75= 75:yes: Higher masters just add more saturation of FFB forces...Lower masters reduce FFB Feel and saturation.

after you find you sweet spot then later on you can Edit the tweeker file if you choose and adjust the masters accordingly.

2) you like the feel of the settings as is with tweeker file but you want more curb rumble set RAC 80-->85 Do Not exceed RAC 85 this will put you in the clipping Zone!!!... RAC 75 Curb feel is good but you you Only want more wheel weight set TF to 80, you want more wheel weight and Curb feel set TF and RAC 80.

I recommend to start with on wheel FFB @50% and + or - as needed if needed to find your sweet spot.

GrimeyDog
16-03-2017, 18:24
Perfect! Thank you. I'll be working on it!

Armin just put up a New FFB Motor FW in the same Fanatec Thread 3/4ths down the page

Randy
16-03-2017, 22:17
Hi Grimey~
I have all the tweaker files in the folder (unziped, and extracted out of the inner FFB folder (copy) directly inside of FFB). I also set up my Options->Calibrate Force Feedback settings exactly as in the PDF. I have a question or 2 before going further:

1. My understanding is the tweaker files were implemented during Beta. Are they still active? meaning, does the PCars app still recognize and overwrite the settings in the released production version?
2. If it does, and I load with them, do the in-game GUI controls have any effect if changed? I notice the car settings do not reflect the tweaker settings. Just askin!

Thanks~
Randy

GrimeyDog
16-03-2017, 23:00
Hi Grimey~
I have all the tweaker files in the folder (unziped, and extracted out of the inner FFB folder (copy) directly inside of FFB). I also set up my Options->Calibrate Force Feedback settings exactly as in the PDF. I have a question or 2 before going further:

1. My understanding is the tweaker files were implemented during Beta. Are they still active? meaning, does the PCars app still recognize and overwrite the settings in the released production version?
2. If it does, and I load with them, do the in-game GUI controls have any effect if changed? I notice the car settings do not reflect the tweaker settings. Just askin!

Thanks~
Randy

just put the tweeker file in the Pcars folder that's shown in the Pic---> re name the file FFB

the FFB setting within the tweeker file now Over ride all in car FFb settings... you can adjust all suspension settings except arm angle....any time you want to deactvate the tweeker files just rename the folder to FFB_Off

do you know how to edit tweeker files with notepad++ ???

Option 2 you can enter each file on a per car basis as you drive it and adjust the in car masters if needed...I like all cars at according to the settings listed in the PDF they all work fine for me...I use the same FFB settings, The FFB settings have nothing to do with the car handles...FFB settings only provide bump feel....

Randy
16-03-2017, 23:34
just put the tweeker file in the Pcars folder that's shown in the Pic---> re name the file FFB

the FFB setting within the tweeker file now Over ride all in car FFb settings... you can adjust all suspension settings except arm angle....any time you want to deactvate the tweeker files just rename the folder to FFB_Off

do you know how to edit tweeker files with notepad++ ???

Option 2 you can enter each file on a per car basis as you drive it and adjust the in car masters if needed...I like all cars at according to the settings listed in the PDF they all work fine for me...I use the same FFB settings, The FFB settings have nothing to do with the car handles...FFB settings only provide bump feel....

Thanks! Yes, I'm a web developer by day, so I'm no stranger to Notepad++ =)

My intention is to not have to deal with FFB at all, and focus as much as possible on car setup. I know this is a simulator, but as such, the game should "try" to emulate real racing as much as possible (my opinion only!).... FFB represents forces on the steering wheel and pedals (which are my only points of physical contact with the car). Those forces are "reactive", not "adjustable", and should NOT have any influence on how the car reacts on the track. How my car is set up in real racing will be the only thing that matters. The resulting forces on the wheel are constant based on physics and how the car is set up.

So, my perspective is, if a simulator program wants to emulate real racing, it should focus on:

1. The car setup - fine tuning essential.
2. The ability of the driver, and
3. Managing the race strategy.

FFB should be constant, and programmed into the application for each supported wheel. Maybe have a master slider to adjust the overall force, but definitely no others. I'm sure others will argue the point with me. It's cool to have secrets that give additional advantages to those that can set up FFB, but it in no way reflects real racing. Those forces are supplied naturally and predictably, and are out of my control (well, maybe the kind of gloves I wear might make a difference!), and are how you know what to do to the car setup to fix/make the car faster, corner better, etc.

Enough of my rant! I really appreciate your help! So, I can make car setup changes that are not ffb related then. That's good to know!

Best!
Randy

GrimeyDog
16-03-2017, 23:49
Thanks! Yes, I'm a web developer by day, so I'm no stranger to Notepad++ =)

My intention is to not have to deal with FFB at all, and focus as much as possible on car setup. I know this is a simulator, but as such, the game should "try" to emulate real racing as much as possible (my opinion only!).... FFB represents forces on the steering wheel and pedals (which are my only points of physical contact with the car). Those forces are "reactive", not "adjustable", and should NOT have any influence on how the car reacts on the track. How my car is set up in real racing will be the only thing that matters. The resulting forces on the wheel are constant based on physics and how the car is set up.

So, my perspective is, if a simulator program wants to emulate real racing, it should focus on:

1. The car setup - fine tuning essential.
2. The ability of the driver, and
3. Managing the race strategy.

FFB should be constant, and programmed into the application for each supported wheel. Maybe have a master slider to adjust the overall force, but definitely no others. I'm sure others will argue the point with me. It's cool to have secrets that give additional advantages to those that can set up FFB, but it in no way reflects real racing. Those forces are supplied naturally and predictably, and are out of my control (well, maybe the kind of gloves I wear might make a difference!), and are how you know what to do to the car setup to fix/make the car faster, corner better, etc.

Enough of my rant! I really appreciate your help! So, I can make car setup changes that are not ffb related then. That's good to know!

Best!
Randy

your Going to like it... We share the same ideas on what FFB is meant to do...it only conveys info about how a car is handling the Road!!! The Road is Static and the cars are Variable...meaning each car should be programmed with the same FFB because the road will Not change because you change your Car!!! that bump in the road is still there it will Not change its size or shape but will feel different per car because each car has different handling characteristics...this has always been my argument from day 1...Yes there are many who will fight with you over this simple and true concept...LOL.


how you described the FFB system and how it should be used in a simulator...i have had that same statement/thought/fact posted on My thread front page for almost 2 yrs!!! many have argued...

This simple truth quoted from my front page can not be Denied...

"Pcars FFB is supposed to be based on Pure Steering Rack Forces that Create the FFB Effects and feelhttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/tickyes.png
So the Question is i don't understand why some continue to promote the use of low in car mastershttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/confused.png why continue to kill the FFB at the source using low in Car Masters??? Even with in Car Masters 100, RAG 1.0, SG 1.0 there is no clipping to be seen in the FFB Graph and No loss of dynamic FFB rangehttp://forum.projectcarsgame.com/images/smilies/tickyes.png Yes there are many ways to tweek the FFB system... I tried low in car masters and it just really kills too much feel with No Benefit."

Randy
16-03-2017, 23:55
your Going to like it... We share the same ideas on what FFB is meant to do...it only conveys info about how a car is handling the Road!!! The Road is Static and the cars are Variable...meaning each car should be programmed with the same FFB because the road will Not change because you change your Car!!! that bump in the road is still there it will Not change its size or shape but will feel different per car because each car has different handling characteristics...this has always been my argument from day 1...Yes there are many who will fight with you over this simple and true concept...LOL

Awesome~ Planning to work on this all night....coffee is brewing! Best~

GrimeyDog
17-03-2017, 00:15
Keep in Mind that these settings are Very Flexible... You have Total Controle!!! You can Set Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz & SOP how ever you want.... You can Set SOP Master Scale to Off if you don't like it.
1 car too Strong Lower the masters 1 car too light Raise the Masters.... You can use In Car Masters 200 with No Clipping!!! This is because TF 75...TF(Global Spindle Master Scale) Sets the Total Power output from the in car Masters... In Car Masters Set the Saturation of FFB forces(in Car Masters Blend the Fx,Fy etc forces as 1 before TF) ... Ex: look at it like this You can turn up the Base(Fx), Mids(Fy), Highs(Fz) with your car Radio equalizer without Raising the total Volume of the system...Why??? Because the Equalizer is Not the Master Volume it just raises the Volume of the frequencies you want to bring out more... The Fx Fy etc and in Car Masters operate the same way.... They are all Pre TF(Global Spindle Master Scale) frequency adjustments.. this means that in Car Maters 100 + TF 75 = 75 Final power output!!! Low in Car Masters Kill the FFB Feel at the Source!!! High in car Masters just Give More Saturation of FFB forces and will Not Cause Clipoing as long as your Global System is Balanced Correctly.

RAG Sets the Power Limit of Forces working within the FFB system... Ex any forces that tries to Rise above its set Limit will Be Cut/Clipped.... Therefore you Must set RAC lower than RAG.

RAC Sets the point at which the FFB system Stops applying power to the FFB Forces..... Ex: A Fan will Not Stop Spinning just because you cut the power switch off... It will Keep Spinning until the residual power Dissipates....The FFB system is the same.... RAC will cut the power to the FFB forces but the FFB Spikes will Continue to Rise until the Residual power Dissipates!!! Therefore set RAC 75 to 80!!! 85 is possible but you are really pushing the Limit and FFB Effect forces will be Very Strong!!! RAC too High This is why people get Clipping....No using Higher RAG will Not Stop Clipping it just allows More power to Flow through the system unchecked and will actually Promote/Cause Clipping.... This Fact Forces you to use Low in Car Masters to avoid Clipping which will work But Low Car Masters Kill the FFB Feel at the source!!! That's like Having Head phones with a Volume control on it so you cut your Ipod Volume down Very Low while turning th Volume on your Head phones up....Then you wonder why you cant Hear the Music Clearly:confused:... Why You??? Because you killed the Volume at the source:yes: The FFB system with Regards to in Car Masters operates the same way:yes:

Note: Very important to Keep Fx at a Lower # Value than Fy!!! Fx is the Strongest Force it will TOTALLY Drown out Fy Feel... Test it and See... Set Fx to 10 set Fy to 50 then test... Then set Fx to 30 Fy 50 you will see that Fy feel -->Left to Right Grip/Road Feel is Less...the set Fx 50 Fy 50 you will see that Fy Feel is almost Totally Gone!!!


I made this post the other day from my phone...LOL...The system is sooo easy to figure out as long as you keep it simple....There are some who confound and confuse the FFB system for personal glory so that you have to rely on them to tweek for you...I have shared all of My ideas and knowledge of the FFB system and Give out the info freely so all can fine tune My tweek and or just tweek for themselves.

GrimeyDog
17-03-2017, 00:19
Awesome~ Planning to work on this all night....coffee is brewing! Best~

Let me know how you make out...let Me Know what you think about the FFB...i will be more than happy to help you get things sorted and tweeked if need be so that it feels best for you.

Randy
17-03-2017, 01:12
Well.....1 or 2 questions deserve more questions, right Grimey?.....

1. I have the CSW 2.5 Base, The Universal Hub for XBox1 (although I'm totally PC based). The 1st set of params in the PDF reference the "wheel" settings, which I take to mean the properties Application that launches from the Installed Game Controllers dialog? Anyway, you have these settings:

CSW v2 On Wheel Settings Sen Auto, FFB 75 , Sho 100, ABS Off, Lin Off , Dea Off, Dri Off,
FOR 100, Spr 100, Dpr 100, BrF 30 or to your taste

The only admin program I have for my Fanatec setup is shown here:

237217
237218

Am I missing an admin app for my wheel that would have all the settings above?

Randy
17-03-2017, 01:22
Holy Crap! Nevermind.....When you said "on the wheel", you weren't kidding lol....When in doubt, read the damn manual!....No wonder I've been having so much trouble. I have to access the on-wheel tuning menu!....

DOH!

UPDATE: After reading the manual, I realized how and why I missed it! The V2.5 Wheel Base manual directs you to Universal Hub for XBox1 manual. The UHX1 manual references the fact that you "can" adjust FFB settings of the base, but NEVER explains what the settings are, or how to access them! Unbelievable. I was able to figure it out through trial and error, but at least a button combination reference or something would be nice Fanatec! Here are the directions to access the FFB settings on UHXB1, and how to set them (PC Mode, but probably works the same way on XBox1):

1. Set the wheel to PC Mode (red mode start+y)
2. Enter the tuning menu by pressing the small black button just below the "F" in Fanatec (the LED display is now on)
2. On the right side of the UHXB1 display press the right button (->) on the directional pad surrounding "A" once.
3. Using the Up and Down (top and bottom) buttons, adjust the value desired for that parameter (ABS, SHO, etc)
4. Press the right (->) or left (<-) buttons to cycle through the available settings and adjust as necessary.

That's it. Hope this helps anudder newbie like me!

Randy

GrimeyDog
17-03-2017, 09:20
How are you Liking the FFB feel so far?

I use the 918 porsche Rim...I will be using My XB1 Hub this weekend... i havent used that in almost 1yr... The Hub is Heavyier than the 918 rim so you may want RAC up at 80 to give a tad more thump to the Curb/ Road Feel....also what car ate you using... I love the Gt3 Ruf!!! Esoecially for testing and tweeking.

blinkngone
17-03-2017, 13:06
237220Well Randy then it's a double DuDoh for me, thanks for the instructions! I basically just jumped in with the new wheel, still using Jack Spade's files for the G25. Some of my settings are Master 20, Fx 18, Fy 48(how old I was when I quit smoking), Fz 72(year I met my 1st wife), Mz 20. Sop scale 28, lateral 30 and differential 60. I use deadzone removal range 0.02 and falloff 0.01. Today my goal was to get all my GT 3 cars to 3rd place or better at Willow Springs Horse Thief Mile, so far I have 2 cars in 1st, 3 in 2nd, 3 in 3rd, 2 in 4th(BMW's) and 1 in 5th(Ginetta). I plan on doing my wheel adjustments with all of the information I have from you guys after the 29th of March. For now

GrimeyDog
17-03-2017, 13:32
237220Well Randy then it's a double DuDoh for me, thanks for the instructions! I basically just jumped in with the new wheel, still using Jack Spade's files for the G25. Some of my settings are Master 20, Fx 18, Fy 48(how old I was when I quit smoking), Fz 72(year I met my 1st wife), Mz 20. Sop scale 28, lateral 30 and differential 60. I use deadzone removal range 0.02 and falloff 0.01. Today my goal was to get all my GT 3 cars to 3rd place or better at Willow Springs Horse Thief Mile, so far I have 2 cars in 1st, 3 in 2nd, 3 in 3rd, 2 in 4th(BMW's) and 1 in 5th(Ginetta). I plan on doing my wheel adjustments with all of the information I have from you guys after the 29th of March. For now

I'm Going to Go get those times!!! I have 6!!! #1 times Watkins Short!!! Ford 2+2 Fast back, Renault Megan Race Car.. Set that with the v2.5, Ford Mk iv, BMW 320tc, KTX Bow ,and another BMW i forget which 1 i think its the Classic B or something.

whats your Gamer Tag??? What Cars did you use???

You will Never Beat that BMW TC time with JS settings... There is just No Feel to it you cant tell when the car is at edge of Grip!!!

Low Masters Kill the FFB at the Source!!!

Note: All My times are set with Stock untweeked car suspension....Not even tire psi or Down Forces adjusted!!! Straight Driving with Good FFB feel.

blinkngone
17-03-2017, 16:05
Hi Grimey, what's "Gamer Tag"? GT 3's-Aston Martin V12 Vantage, Audi R8 Ultra, Bentley Continental GT3, BMW M3 GT(up to #3), BMW Z4 GT3, Cadillac ATS-V.R GT3, Corvette C7.R, McLaren 12C GT3, Merc-AMG GT3, Merc SLS AMG GT3, Ruf RGT-8 GT3 not sure about the Aston Martin Vantage GTE though although some include it in GT 3. Anyway 2 left to go, the Ruf at #5 and the Z4 at #4 and I meet my goal. Willow Springs Horse Thief Mile I think is a good evaluation track for your FFB, it has left/ rights, elevation changes and you get to pound your front splitter like Bathurst and try and recover in the turn. I just don't see how you can avoid adjusting the tire pressures considering the difference in wheel loading on this course.

blinkngone
17-03-2017, 17:30
You're Right about the BMW Touring Car, I'm in 2nd. The person in #1 on the Horse Thief Mile is almost impossible to beat, he practically owns this circuit. For all I know he might be Valtteri Botas' driving coach.

Randy
17-03-2017, 17:48
How are you Liking the FFB feel so far?

I use the 918 porsche Rim...I will be using My XB1 Hub this weekend... i havent used that in almost 1yr... The Hub is Heavyier than the 918 rim so you may want RAC up at 80 to give a tad more thump to the Curb/ Road Feel....also what car ate you using... I love the Gt3 Ruf!!! Esoecially for testing and tweeking.

Love the ffb in the wheel~ But I can't get the V3 pedals to work at all. I've tried combined & separate. In both cases the Fanatec game properties app shows correctly (meaning the pedals register as expected), but in the game options calibration either none of the pedals register anything when pressed (v2 seperate settings), or when I set the controls to v2 combined (and connect the pedals to the base instead of direct USB), the in-game calibration registers correctly also, but when I leave the pits the accelerator is approx 25% on already before I touch the pedal, and I can't adjust that out in settings.

I'm hoping I don't have a defective set of pedals, but I don't think so because they test out correctly outside of the game. Not sure what to do at this point!

Randy

GrimeyDog
17-03-2017, 18:19
Hi Grimey, what's "Gamer Tag"? GT 3's-Aston Martin V12 Vantage, Audi R8 Ultra, Bentley Continental GT3, BMW M3 GT(up to #3), BMW Z4 GT3, Cadillac ATS-V.R GT3, Corvette C7.R, McLaren 12C GT3, Merc-AMG GT3, Merc SLS AMG GT3, Ruf RGT-8 GT3 not sure about the Aston Martin Vantage GTE though although some include it in GT 3. Anyway 2 left to go, the Ruf at #5 and the Z4 at #4 and I meet my goal. Willow Springs Horse Thief Mile I think is a good evaluation track for your FFB, it has left/ rights, elevation changes and you get to pound your front splitter like Bathurst and try and recover in the turn. I just don't see how you can avoid adjusting the tire pressures considering the difference in wheel loading on this course.

What Name do you game under or Steam tag name??...Example: all my #1 times on Watkins short say GrimeyDog

That way i can hunt for you and race your ghost:triumphant:

blinkngone
17-03-2017, 18:22
Hi Randy, I'm using the pre-set CSW 2.0 with combined pedals, no problems what-so-ever, sorry you are having difficulty. I have my wheel base connected to a usb port on the back of my pc and the pedals connected to the wheel base, same as you. On my hub settings in Fanatec I don't have anything checked, just wheel 900 and ffb 100%. I also have the older firmware version.

blinkngone
17-03-2017, 18:23
Hi Grimey, I post all my times as blinkngone.

GrimeyDog
17-03-2017, 18:26
Love the ffb in the wheel~ But I can't get the V3 pedals to work at all. I've tried combined & separate. In both cases the Fanatec game properties app shows correctly (meaning the pedals register as expected), but in the game options calibration either none of the pedals register anything when pressed (v2 seperate settings), or when I set the controls to v2 combined (and connect the pedals to the base instead of direct USB), the in-game calibration registers correctly also, but when I leave the pits the accelerator is approx 25% on already before I touch the pedal, and I can't adjust that out in settings.

I'm hoping I don't have a defective set of pedals, but I don't think so because they test out correctly outside of the game. Not sure what to do at this point!

Randy

Have updated your Pedal FW??? ...Plug them into the PC open the updater and it will tell you what FW your pedals are on...Even if they are on the current FW Reflash them anyway...The Pedal update Can Not Be Done with the Pedals connected to the wheel:no:...You Have to update the Pedals By themselves:yes:

Sankyo
17-03-2017, 18:56
Love the ffb in the wheel~ But I can't get the V3 pedals to work at all. I've tried combined & separate. In both cases the Fanatec game properties app shows correctly (meaning the pedals register as expected), but in the game options calibration either none of the pedals register anything when pressed (v2 seperate settings), or when I set the controls to v2 combined (and connect the pedals to the base instead of direct USB), the in-game calibration registers correctly also, but when I leave the pits the accelerator is approx 25% on already before I touch the pedal, and I can't adjust that out in settings.

I'm hoping I don't have a defective set of pedals, but I don't think so because they test out correctly outside of the game. Not sure what to do at this point!

Randy

If the pedals work correctly in the Fanatec Wheel Properties screen then they should work in the game, provided that you first assigned the pedal axes correctly in the game (Controls / Edit). Before assigning the pedals, make sure you have pressed all pedals through their entire range to prevent assignment problems.

Randy
17-03-2017, 19:00
Hi Randy, I'm using the pre-set CSW 2.0 with combined pedals, no problems what-so-ever, sorry you are having difficulty. I have my wheel base connected to a usb port on the back of my pc and the pedals connected to the wheel base, same as you. On my hub settings in Fanatec I don't have anything checked, just wheel 900 and ffb 100%. I also have the older firmware version.

Hi blinkngone, thank you! interesting, you don't have the "combine pedals" checked in Fanatec? I will try that! I have 2.45 (I think is the newest driver). I'm not sure I can still download & update the driver to an older version, but if this doesn't fix it, then I will hunt for it!

Best!

UPDATE! That worked! unchecking combine pedals in Fanatec, along with setting in-game controls to v2 seperate (even though the pedals are connected to the base) works! It shouldn't, but it does! Thank you again blinkngone! Now for the fun part....resetting FFB (yuck!)

Sankyo
17-03-2017, 19:04
interesting, you don't have the "combine pedals" checked in Fanatec?
"Combined Pedals" has nothing to do with having the pedals connected to the base, it means that throttle and brake control a single axis in the game, which you definitely don't want. So leave that option unselected.

Randy
17-03-2017, 19:13
Have updated your Pedal FW??? ...Plug them into the PC open the updater and it will tell you what FW your pedals are on...Even if they are on the current FW Reflash them anyway...The Pedal update Can Not Be Done with the Pedals connected to the wheel:no:...You Have to update the Pedals By themselves:yes:

Yes Grimey. I'm on v2.45 . Interesting point you make regarding the updating with pedals seperate. I can't remember if I updated FW with them combined or seperate. That may be causing the issue! Next time I update it, I'll make sure to have the pedals on USB....Thanks for that!

Randy

Randy
17-03-2017, 19:15
"Combined Pedals" has nothing to do with having the pedals connected to the base, it means that throttle and brake control a single axis in the game, which you definitely don't want. So leave that option unselected.

Ahhh!....I bet it's a common misconception!

blinkngone
17-03-2017, 19:19
Hi Grimey, at Watkins Glen Short you can chase my C9 and CLK-LM, I am ahead of you with these. Some of my other cars you are already ahead of me. I don't go there much, I can only find around a dozen times I have gone there, nothing in the past 9 months and most of them over a year ago. I don't intend to go back there any time soon. I have a couple of thousand times posted, you should be able to find some, mostly the shorter tracks but Zuhai and Zolder of the longer tracks and some at circuit Bugati and the C9 at Brno and Brands Hatch GP and Monza GP.
I am not going to meet my goal for today, the Ruf GT 3 is stuck in 5th.

Randy
17-03-2017, 19:52
Well....Now I need change my pants!....Awesome Grimey~ Just loaded the tweakers, and finished all the settings in the PDF, and I love the game again~ Thank you sooo much! Have a few "minor" tweaks for my own feel, and the Vantage is pushing a bit, but the FFB is stellar!

Randy

blinkngone
17-03-2017, 20:35
Cool Randy, I am happy you can now begin enjoying your awesome new technology. Maybe now we can start helping each other with set-ups. I have tried the set-ups in the data base and without fail they don't work for me, I think it is because so much is dependent on the FFB and wheel we are using, this seems even more critical than the tuning parameters. I only have a few tunes for the Vantage GT 3 with the CSW v2.5, here is the one for Willow Springs Horse Thief Mile I did today.
237221

Randy
17-03-2017, 20:55
Cool Randy, I am happy you can now begin enjoying your awesome new technology. Maybe now we can start helping each other with set-ups. I have tried the set-ups in the data base and without fail they don't work for me, I think it is because so much is dependent on the FFB and wheel we are using, this seems even more critical than the tuning parameters. I only have a few tunes for the Vantage GT 3 with the CSW v2.5, here is the one for Willow Springs Horse Thief Mile I did today.

I have such great memories at Willow! Held the kart 200cc open record there for a couple of years in the 80's! It was my home track. Anyway, I'd be glad to collaborate! I know I need a lot of help lol! My tag in Steam is awwzou, and in PCars, gt3-Oz .

On the road again.....

Randy

GrimeyDog
17-03-2017, 21:12
i just sent gt3-Oz and blinkngone friend request on steam...My steam tag is GrimeyDog

accept friend request so we can race a bit

blinkngone
17-03-2017, 22:00
Hi, already accepted, never raced here before, wouldn't know how. Years ago I raced 2 times on Race Driver Grid, it was a mess. From what I see posted here it is not much better, unless you are in a League on a private server.

blinkngone
17-03-2017, 22:43
Hi Guys, gauntlet is thrown down, all my GT 3's are in podium position at Mojave Sidewinder. Pick your track and get on with your adventure:victorious:

Randy
17-03-2017, 23:10
i just sent gt3-Oz and blinkngone friend request on steam...My steam tag is GrimeyDog

accept friend request so we can race a bit

I didn't get the friend request Grimey, but I sent you one. My account (Steam) is under awwzou, but my in-game tag is gt3-Oz . Anyway, you and blink accept mine I guess? doesn't matter. Lets Race! Gonna get my ass kicked, but it's good to be humbled sometimes!

Randy
17-03-2017, 23:11
Hi Guys, gauntlet is thrown down, all my GT 3's are in podium position at Mojave Sidewinder. Pick your track and get on with your adventure:victorious:

Ok blink! Now set the game to Pro instead of Ameteur LOL.....Podium....If we 3 race, we'll all be on it huh? hehehe

blinkngone
18-03-2017, 00:37
Hey, I am old enough to know my limits, intermediate it is:rolleyes: Another gauntlet tossed, Willow Springs Horse Thief Mile all podiums GT 3's. Maybe you should change yours?

GrimeyDog
18-03-2017, 01:52
Hey, I am old enough to know my limits, intermediate it is:rolleyes: Another gauntlet tossed, Willow Springs Horse Thief Mile all podiums GT 3's. Maybe you should change yours?

I'm 48 with the Reflexes of a 48yr old!!! LOL...But i also have the SKILL of a 20+ yr veteran in the racing Game:cool: Sim, Arcade don't matter i done it.
This sim racing really Became My Passion back in 2010 when i Got My first Fanatec Wheel and V1 pedals...Maybe i will take you up on that Challenge after i finish My random car take over of Watkins short... when i get Bored and get tired of racing with the crash dummies i just pick a random car and See where i can get it...I like the Glen its Quick...you can drop a good time in 5 laps or Less!!!

All my times are set with a stock tune...I don't use that camber Speed Glitch either IMO that's sorta like Cheating.. I may start tuning a few cars to see how big a diff it makes in lap times.

blinkngone
18-03-2017, 09:35
Morning Grimey. I see you were able to improve your time with the C9 at Watkins Glen Short, good job!
I am glad you are a pro with much experience, I am not a pro and will never be one. I am over 64, I have a disease which affects all my muscles, in particular my hands, arms, legs and feet. I am extremely happy that since I got out of the Hospital my right eye
has stopped rolling backward, enough so that I can now see to drive this game. In order for me to play this game, or any physical exertion for that matter, I have to accept doing a certain amount of damage to myself, which is why my Dr. banned me from this game for a while. This damage is also the reason I quit doing career racing and mostly avoid the longer tracks. I can't manage the clutch, shifter, or even the shifter paddles, it's all I can do to be an intermediate. There are plenty of pro drivers on this forum who you can race against, it's never going to be me.

Oh, and Grimey, I can't follow your lead if you are still behind me:cheerful:

GrimeyDog
18-03-2017, 14:46
I gave the Sauber a Quick Spin... I like That Car its a Beast!!!... All the Times i set i have done with Stock suspension Not even tire PSI or Down Force adustments... I see there are Some Cars i will have to tune to get more outta them... For Stock tunes im pretty satisfied...Mabe i will Give a Car or 2 a suspension tweek to see how much time i gain.

GrimeyDog
19-03-2017, 17:30
blinkngone i ran that Horse thief Mile course last Nigh.... Not a Bad track once you know the layout.... Not too far off from your time...less than .200!!! Took about 10 laps using Stock tune in the Gt3 Ruf...Im sure i could get a Better time if i put some effort in it...I don't use any assist... i need to kill the tire spin in a few corners... I dont know the track well enough Yet... Dunno when i will go back to it but thats a Hella Fun and Challenging Track!!! I havent put too much time in any of the Willow spring tracks

GrimeyDog
20-03-2017, 01:01
blinkngone I dunno dude:cower:

Ok I got Board!!! and you must have Blinked Cause that Gt3 Ruf time on Horse Thief Mile is Gone!!!...I got it on the first lap too:o and I'm still using stock/Default car set up and Nope I don't use the camber speed trick either...That's kinda cheating IMO...but anyway it won't help on that track at least I don't think so there are no long straights for it to kick in:confused: but I really don't know...Shrugggs:indecisiveness:

I will post the video soon:p

BigDad
20-03-2017, 01:35
https://youtu.be/rcqiw6TNj_4
So much for the CSWv2.5 1000Hz rate. lol
Fanatec Marketing! I guess it's helps them stay alive.

GrimeyDog
20-03-2017, 02:01
https://youtu.be/rcqiw6TNj_4
So much for the CSWv2.5 1000Hz rate. lol
Fanatec Marketing! I guess it's helps them stay alive.

I don't get it??? he is talking about pedal bits regarding resolution...I happen to agree with that that's why I don't bother plugging My pedals into the PC directly to get the higher bit rate.

The v2 and v2.5 feel very different because the v2.5 has little to no drag in the center of the wheel...check out the fact sheet...I compare them directly and center feel of the v2.5 is totally Drag free this allows much more subtle FFB feel to come through....The v2 is a great wheel but as expected with any upgrade to a product the v2.5 is really showing improved subtle FFB fidelity and Much more progressive feel...While the total Max power of the wheel may be the same the way the FFB power ramps up is much Smoother and has a much more progressive feel to it which makes it feel stronger even though its not....check out the v2.5 fact sheet I posted below... also pasted the link to it as well.

https://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/support/faq/details&id=101








Subject






CSW V2.5 (new) drift mode explained in detail


Description
https://www.fanatec.com/image/flags/1.png (https://www.fanatec.com/#language_1)
Here is a small explanation what has been changed to the Drift Mode of the new ClubSport Wheel Base 2.5 and which new feature is "hidden" there:



CSW V2
CSW V2.5
Notes


Standard electric motor damper
DRI OFF
DRI -5
Best for most games/simulations. Feels identical on both wheel bases


Reduced electric motor damper
n.a.
DRI -4 -> DRI -1 (new!)
Can eventually cause problems (oscillations in games which do NOT support “low drag” wheels)


Electric motor damper turned off
n.a
DRI OFF (new!)
WILL cause problems (oscillations) in games which do NOT support “low drag” (like DD) wheels


“Classic” Fanatec Drift Mode
DRI 1-5
DRI 1-5
Will speed up/accelerate your wheel movements and reduce the dampening – just like power steering


DRI OFF now has NO dampening at all. Works similar to a direct drive wheel which has no mechanical resistance. If there is no FFB effect there will be no force/dampening from the motor and electronics in the wheel. That can cause problems in games if they are not optimized. DRI -5 is the safe setting now (for the CSW V2.5) as it was “OFF” in the CSW V2.
Differences to the CSW V2:
At the time the CSW V2 was developed it was not possible to create a dynamic/variable motor damper into the motor driver. To develop this features we had to design a completely new motor electronics which is driven by a logical processor and has its own firmware which is programmable/updateable. Since the combination of having NO electronic damper and hardly any mechanical dampening in the (v-belt drive) system causes problems, like wheel oscillations on straights, in most games, using this static electrical damper in the CSW V2 was a MUST. The drift mode helps to keep the effect of this damper as minimal as possible. DRI3 should be a good compromise in most games for the CSW V2 to make the wheel turn easy and freely.

BigDad
20-03-2017, 06:37
I relates to Bit resolution , USB / Game rates .
What can "said" game read and what USB is used ?
Fanatec use USB 2.0 and it is 480hz(if im not mistaken) so having 1000hz as stated by Fanatec wont make a "bit"of difference ?? Maybe?

GrimeyDog
20-03-2017, 07:37
Thats wrong... 1000Hz is Talking about Processing Speed... Very Much like when you OC your CPU/GPU... when You turn up the speed it Gives a Graphics/performance Boost...Same with the Higher Wheel Hz the Faster Processing gives a Boost to What you Feel... I have them both and just the Reduced wheel.drag is almost a Night and Day Difference... Its a Very Notable diff too!!! If you look at My first Post about the v2.5 even before they put out the Fact Sheet... the Thing i said was there was a Notable Diff in wheel Drag and Center Feel the Diff is that Big that you dont need a fact Sheet to know that something has changed for the better....Tbe Reduced Wheel Drag was a Nice Leap forward in Subtle FFB Feel.

The v2 is a great wheel dont get Me wrong and im Not Gonna sell Mine No way No How!!! The v2.5 wont connect to the PS4 AT ALL!!!! So the V2 will Still be Needed if i want ti use PS4 or I demands a Higher aftermarket sale Price because it still works with a Few PS4 sims.

GrimeyDog
20-03-2017, 07:56
http://youtu.be/98MrpRYo5w0

Dude you Blinked your Horse Thief Mile GT3 time Gone!!! LOL

BigDad
20-03-2017, 08:08
USB has a pooling rate , Niels talks about the different rates of USB . USB 2.0 is 480Hz with USB 3.0 1000Hz max . Games have a rate they draw input , 360Hz for AMS , rF2 400Hz , iRacing 60Hz and pCars ? So having 1000 in those wont make any difference at all .
Cheap cables make a difference also . Many variables , again Niels shares all variables for pedals but they would apply for all electronic components .
Is that reduced drag due to higher Hz rate or firmware ? I suspect firmware .
I think the v2.5 would be a great wheel update from most wheels but going from v2 , not so much .

GrimeyDog
20-03-2017, 09:09
Pcars Has 600hz refersh rate...the rest I Dunno but i can Clearly Feel a Diff in the 2 wheels... The v2 is a Great wheel the v2.5 is just more fefined with better Subtle FFB feel....FFB feels Sharper/Crisper as well as it has more/Smoother progressive wheel weight feel....this is probably Directly related to the Lack of Drag in wheel center... Probably FW related... if they can port that 0 drag over to the v2 many v2 owners will Dance with Joy... The reduced Drag feels that much better... For Me it was worth the upgrade... As it is Now the diff between a DD and the v2.5 is just the Belt Drive because the v2.5 has 0 drag also Now.. But as i said in the past the Belt drive gives sooo Much more feel that its hard to imagine even more FFB Feel just because its DD

Im Not saying that the v2 is a bad wheel at all.... Its a Great wheel.... what im saying is that the upgrades that have been made to the v2.5 version of the wheel are cler and self evident.... One of the first pist i made about it was that the Wheel center moves Notably more freely... and thats before the fact sheet where it says it has 0 drag same as a DD wheel.... The wheel center moves sooo much easier that it was throwing My Driving Line off big time... it took a few hours to get used to it but Now im used to it its Uber Easy to be Even More consistant... I can push even harder because i can Feel More!!!. The Tire Scrub feel is even clearer Now with the v2.5.... Alot of the tire Scrub Feel gets Drowned out by the wheel Drag i see that Now.
I Never even Noticed the wheel Drag until i used the V2.5... I had gotten sooo used to it fron the 911 gt2 & CSR Elite wheels that the Wheel Drag just became the Norm:p .... I do think i will Stop upgrading wheels here with the v2.5.... Unless tbeir DD wheel has Stellar reviews...I cant even drive with the V2 at 100% FFB power so i dont Need the extra power that DD wheels Give.... to rate them the V2 vs v2.5 the v2.5 has about 20% more subtle feel... The Subtle Feel is what matters Most because the Stronger FFB will be felt any way.

Check out that Horse Thuef Mile Video a few pist above... Thats a track where Less Wheel Drag is Really going to Make a Big Difference.... The Less wheel Drag shows its self on Watkins Glen but Not as Much as this track....The Less Wheel Drag also really Brings out Pcars Progressive FFB feel!!!

BigDad
20-03-2017, 09:48
600hz , nice !
Yeah i really notice the drag reduction coming from my old GT2 but comparing from my new CSL E to my new CSW v2 not as much .
Upgrading from the CSL E to the v2 wasn't really a big upgrade in feel (to me) but having the ascetics and strength of the v2 really impresses.
I hope there is more they can do through firmware for the v2 but if i was them i wouldn't as it might stop people paying for a newer version and the drag might be the biggest card they have .
What firmware did you find the best for your CSW v2?

There lots of talk about FFB refresh rates going on here
https://forum.studio-397.com/index.php?threads/physics-ffb-rates-upgrade.54771/
Post #18 is a rF2 Dev !

GrimeyDog
20-03-2017, 10:00
600hz , nice !
Yeah i really notice the drag reduction coming from my old GT2 but comparing from my new CSL E to my new CSW v2 not as much .
Upgrading from the CSL E to the v2 wasn't really a big upgrade in feel (to me) but having the ascetics and strength of the v2 really impresses.
I hope there is more they can do through firmware for the v2 but if i was them i wouldn't as it might stop people paying for a newer version and the drag might be the biggest card they have .
What firmware did you find the best for your CSW v2?

There lots of talk about FFB refresh rates going on here
https://forum.studio-397.com/index.php?threads/physics-ffb-rates-upgrade.54771/
Post #18 is a rF2 Dev !

I used DR 250 FW 176

Try My Tweeker File... I have it posted... just olug and play... Let Me know what you think.

BigDad
20-03-2017, 10:06
I dont really play pCars much any more . I havent even tried my v2 with it .lol
Hopefully when pCars 2 comes that might change .
I just like coming here and causing trouble .lol

steph280
07-01-2018, 19:05
Sorry to revive an old thread. Just recently upgraded from CSL Elite base to a CSW 2.5. Still using my P1 Xbox wheel until I can upgrade. While everything works great in Projectcars 2, I found out the "select/enter" button no longer works in Project Cars 1. On the P1 wheel this is normally the Xbox logo button in Project Car 2. The button does light up in Fanatec utility GUI.

Is there a place in Project Car 1 to map this button?

Any help is greatly appreciated.